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After the conquest of Istanbul by Mehmed the Conqueror at 1453, construction of the Topkap Palace was started at
the year 1460 and completed at 1478 . Palace was built upon a 700.000 squaremeters area on an Eastern Roman
Acropolis located at the Istanbul Peninsula between Sea of Marmara, Bosphorus and the Golden Horn. Topkap Palace,
was the administrative, educational and art center of the Empire for nearly four hundred years since Mehmed the
Conqueror until Sultan Abdulmecid who is the thirty-first Sultan. Although Palace was abandoned by the Ottoman
Dynasty by moving to the Dolmabahe Palace at middle 19th century, Topkap Palace was protected its importance
everytime.
After the establishment of the Republic of Turkey, Topkap Palace, was transformed into a museum at the date
April 3th 1924 and it was also the first museum of the Republic of Turkey. Topkap Palace Museum is covering
approximately 400.000 squaremeters at the present day. Topkap Palace divided from the city from the land-side by
the Imperial Walls which is made by Mehmed the Conqueror. It divided from the city also from the sea-side by the
Byzantine Walls. Topkap Palace is one of the biggest palace-museums with its architectural structures, collections and
approximately 300.000 archive papers.
There are surroundings like gardens and squares around the Palace. Palace which its Main Gate located at the Hagia-
Sophia side, has four courtyards which has passages between them. At the first courtyard, Hagia-Irene Church which
was used as Armory and the outer service buildings like Mint, Oven and Hospital were located there.
Second Courtyard was the Divan Square (Square of Justice) that hosting the administrative buildings fort the
Empire. This courtyard was also a ceremonial courtyard. Divan- Hu mayun (Kubbealt / Imperial Council) and
Treasury of the Divan- Hu mayun were located on that courtyard. Behind the divan structure, there is the Tower of
Justice which represents justice of the Sultan. Dormitory of the Halberdiers with Tresses and the Entrance of Harem
were also located at this courtyard. There are also Privy Stable structures at the same side around an inner courtyard.
At the Marmara side of the Courtyard of Justice, there are the Palace Kitchens and additional service buildings.
Babu ssaade (Gate of Felicity) where coronation, funeral and festival ceremonies held is located at the Northern side of
the Courtyard of Justice.
The third Courtyard (Enderun Inner Palace) was the section that the Palace aghas were educated and assigned
to high ranks of the State. It formed by the dormitories and the structures belongs to the Sultan. Hall of Audience
where Sultan accepts viziers and ambassadors, Enderun Library which was constructed by the Sultan Ahmed III,
Treasury of Enderun also known as Conquerors Pavilion, Privy Room (Chamber of Sultan) and the Aghas Mosque
which was constructed for the Enderun aghas at the reign of Fatih are the important structures of this courtyard.
Courtyard is surrounded by the Big and Small Room Wards, Expeditionary Force Ward, Pantries Ward, Treasure Ward
and the Privy Room Ward which added to the Privy Room at the 19th century.
From the Privy Room, and the Enderun Courtyard, there are passages to the Imperial Sofa courtyard which
hosts to the kiosks and gardens. At the Marble Terrace part of this courtyard, there are Revan and Baghdat Kiosks,
Circumsision Room and the Iftaree Canopy. Under this terrace, there is a hanging flower garden which surrounded by
wooden Sofa Kiosk and the Tower of the Chief-Physician. At the Marmara side of this garden, there are Sofa Mosque,
Mecidiye Kiosk and Wardrobe Room. It also known that there are lots of kiosks and service structures at the Privy
Gardens which surrounds the Palace in axis of Maramara, Seraglio-Point and the Golden Horn.

Reedina sultanilor pn pe la 1850, conine multe de vzut, de la palat i buctrie, la expoziia de relicve, unde se
gsesc mna Sf. Ioan, sabia lui tefan cel Mare i cea a lui Mahomed. Zonele cu lalele sunt i ele ceva special, dar
probabil cel mai interesant e Haremul, o construcie mai compozit i complicat dect orice sediu guvernamental
contemporan.
Dolmabahe pstreaz urmele trecerii lui Atatrk, fondatorul Turciei contemporane, care a guvernat de aici i a i
murit n palat, n 1938. Terasele care dau ctre Cornul de Aur ofer o privelite special
Arrival by Marmaray: Sirkeci Station of the Marmaray is the nearest station to the Topkap Palace Museum. From
Sirkeci Station, you can reach in front of the Governorate of Istanbul. You can follow the path to the Glhane entrance
and can reach to the Topkap Palace Museum by following the marks. Arrival by Tram Line: Glhane station
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and Sultanahmet station are the nearest stations to the Topkap Palace Museum. From Sultanahmet station, you
can reach to the Topkap Palace Museum by walking from the path in front of from Hagia Sophia Museum and Hrrem
Sultan Bath From Glhane station, you can follow the path to the Glhane entrance and can reach to the Topkap
Palace Museum by following the marks.

Sandale de piele fcute de Ali Guven din Bodrum, care l-a avut de client i pe Mick Jagger Mirodenii din Bazarul
Egiptean Ibrice de cupru pentru cafea Ceramic azurie de Iznik
Mtase din Bursa

Cappadocia goes a long way back. From 1800 B.C. Hittite settlers used the soft volcanic rock to carve caves for shelter
to the cave room hotels of today. Imagine trying to explore a couple of thousand years in just a couple of days:
Impossible!
1-Greme Open Air Museum
A group of rock cut churches, featuring the Apple Church, Chapel of St. Barbara, Chapel of St. Catherine and the so
called Dark Church, that will satisfy any art standards with the painted frescos inside them. My personal favorite is the
Tokali Kilise or Buckle Church 50m down the hill from the entrance. It features an impressive well preserved small
fresco of the Virgin Mary and Baby Jesus on the far end of the church. Entrance Fee: 15 TL (6.50 ) Getting there:
From Greme center a solid 1.5 km walk Special Eye on: For the Dark Church, named like this because of its lack of
windows, there is an extra fee of 8 TL that are worth paying for.The extra fee is a way to restrict the acces in favour of
the preservation of the site. 2- A Walk Around the Valleys You can either hike, mountain bike, horse ride or scooter
through the valleys from Greme that naturally exhibit the different rock formations that are particular to this place:
mushrooms, columns and cones. It is like walking through a natural phenomenon museum. If you are into
photography there will be plenty of great shots waiting for you to take. It is rumored among locals that George Lucas
wanted to film in these valleys scenes for his Star Wars movies but declined due to the fact that producers did not
want to portray phallic symbols into the film. When you visit the Love Valley you will understand why. Fees: free if
you walk, 45 TL (19 ) a day for a scooter and around 15 TL (6.50 ) for a bike. Getting there: There are many
valleys around the most central town of the Cappadocia region. Your best bet is to ask for a map in your hotel and
program an all day hiking trip if you want to visit the mayor ones. Special Eye on: The most famous valleys are the
Red Valley, the Rose Valley, the (not so romantic to my eyes) Love Valley and Zemi Valley. They are all within a
10km range from the town of Greme.
3- avuin It may not make the list of the top 5 places to go on travel agencies of Cappadocia, but for Annika and I, it
was a great experience. It was here where we took some incredible pictures from the top of the deserted rock town
that was once inhabited. It is no coincidence that many hiking tours and horseback riding tours use this place as its
starting point. Here you will also find the oldest cave church attributed to St. John the Baptist that dates all the way
back to the 5th century. Entrance Fee: Free Getting there: a long but beautiful 4 km hiking path from
Greme. Special Eye on: The view from behind the rock town.
4- Derinkuyu: This landmark of Cappadocia is one of my personal favorites. This underground city helped me
understand the terror of what persecution might be like. To hide from the sun underground is a big price for anyone
to pay. It is said that around 10,000 Christans lived here in the 6th and 7th century when Persians and Arabic armies
sought to vanquish the Byzantine Empire. Chapels, rooms, wine cellars and even schools are found deep within the
city. Air shafts were designed not only to keep the air circulating but as elevators where water and food where
transported to the many different levels of the city. Today you can only access to seven of them. Entrance Fee: 15 TL
(6.50 ) Getting There: grab a Dolmu (small bus) from Greme to Nevsehir and then to Derinkuyu for a total of 7
TL (3 ). Special Eye on: It would be advisable to hire a guide. Although the site is interesting enough it is hard to
make for yourself the distinctions among the rooms and there importance. A guide will charge you upon site so the
negotiation is up to you. I would not pay more than 30 TL for a one hour tour.

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Until recently Mustafapaa was the Sleeping Beauty of Cappadocia, a town of grand mansions with elaborate carvings on
their facade but with few visitors. Now suddenly its dreaming of a brighter future as the authorities take steps to cut
themselves a larger slice of the tourism pie.

The restoration of the monastery just a few years ago a graffitied wreck of a place is part of the plan, but elsewhere
in town there are signs of revival everywhere. Ramazan Topas grandfather arrived in Mustafapaa (then Sinasos)
from the Macedonian area of Greece in the population exchange of 1924. Today Ramazan, a neat, self-effacing man, is
caretaker for the Monastery of St Nicholas which, has just reopened to the public after a complete makeover. The
monastic church sits in a hollow, its newly-reconstructed facade resting prettily against one of the plugs of rock that
are such a characteristic of Cappadocia. By local standards its not a particularly old church, most of what we see today
dating back to a restoration in the 1870s, but the view from the top of the rock is breath-taking.As he shows me
around the newly-scrubbed interior with glittering icons brought from Greece newly installed on the rock-cut
iconostasis Ramazan and I chat about his life in Mustafapaa. My wifes family is also from Macedonia, he tells me.
Of course we can speak Turkish but at home we talk Macedonian to each other.
In the small, sleepy main square the Zabita reels off a list of other local attractions. Theres the St Basil Church.
Theres the Eleni Church. Theres the art gallery. Theres the Gmeda Valley, he says while pressing a newly-
published map into my hands. The square is dominated by the facade of the greystone Church of Sts Helena and
Constantine which found new use in 2012 as a venue for the Klasik Keyifler concerts. Establishing the concerts here
was the dream of Iowa-born violinist and human dynamo, Ellen Jewett, and her historian/tour guide husband, Husam
Sleymangil. Ellen describes how on one of her frequent visits to Cappadocia she was invited to play Bach on her
violin after a sema in the Seluk Saruhan, near Avanos. That set her thinking about the possibility of creating a musical
retreat here, far from the stresses of city life. It was the first step on a path that led eventually to the Classical music
festival that is now a fixture on the Cappadocian calendar, with Mustafapaa the jewel in the crown when it comes to
venues. With a stone grapevine entwined around its entrance what the locals call the Eleni Church makes a suitably
grand part-time concert hall but one of Ellens own favorite venues is the Sakl Vadi, an extraordinary S-shaped gorge
that penetrates right into Mustafapaa, yet remains completely hidden until you reach it. There, a natural proscenium
arch provides the perfect platform for a program that runs the gamut from classical chamber music right through to
composition so modern that the ink is barely dry on the pages when its performed.
Uhisar where the distant past and the ultra-modern sometimes collide hotel the deckchairs are angled to soak up a
view of undulating waves that stretch like a petrified sea as far as the eye can see. Its a place to sit and dream, to let
the mind roam over the chance power of the wind and rain acting on ancient volcanic deposits to create something so
exquisite in its perfection. Looking at that view Im briefly lulled into thinking this a timeless place. Later, strolling
along the cobbled road that leads from the breakfast room, I push open the wooden doors of a room labelled
Bezirhane and come face to face with the reality of modern Cappadocia, a place where the distant past and the ultra-
modern sometimes collide to astonishing effect.The Bezirhane is assumed to have started life as a monastic church
although when exactly is unclear. Its original Christian residents once gone, it metamorphosed into a caravanserai,
one of the long chain of resting places for medieval traveling salesmen that criss-crossed Anatolia. Later still it became
a factory for the production of linseed oil in the days before electricity when oil was essential for lighting.
Then, strangely, the Bezirhane vanished, buried beneath the rubble as the troglodytic villagers mined their own
houses for building materials to create new homes after the old ones had been condemned as dangerous. It was only
during the creation of the Argos that the huge building was rediscovered, emerging from beneath the rubble like
Tutankhamuns famous Egyptian tomb popping up from under later buildings.Today, though, the capacious Bezirhane
is acting as a classroom in which Mehmet Yalin, one of stanbuls most eminent food and beverage authorities, is
teaching hotel staff the correct way to pour cognac for their guests (Clasp the body of the bottle, never the neck.).
Behind him on walls that still bear the etched lines of the picks used to carve them a Powerpoint presentation is lined
up waiting. His students, young Uhisarls whose parents would probably never have seen a bottle of cognac, hang on
his every word.
Tiptoeing outside again, I come face to face with a gigantic fairy-chimney, one of the conical rock formations for which
Cappadocia is famous. This particular example is as holey as a hunk of Gorgonzola, a reminder of the days when local
people hollowed homes out of what they called castles (kales). We will turn it into a museum, says Asl Ozbay, the
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hotels genial resident architect, as I gaze at the men hard at work clearing away the rubbish of the centuries. Ten
minutes down the road in Greme dawn sees the everyday hot-air balloon fiesta that has become an essential part of
the local tourism experience. These days the best way to get a feel for Cappadocia is to fly over it, gazing down on the
tiny villages nestling in between the endless valleys. Its from the air that you get a birds-eye perspective on the
stunning beauty of the landscape. Argos is a model for how to create a large hotel while still respecting a traditional
architecture that tended to the small. Would that all hotels could be designed with the same respect for the
environment.
Goreme panorama (Esentepe)

The first stop is at the famous Three Beauties of rgp, where you can see the mushroom-shaped rock formations
and a panorama of the city of rgp. The magnificent landscape of Cappadocia has been formed from solidified lava
streams, ash and tuff stone from volcanic eruptions millions of years ago. The landscape you can see now is the result
of thousands of years of continual erosion, which has shaped the tuff deposits into the strangest pyramids and cones.
The guide gives you information about how the landscape was formed and the history of Cappadocia.
The next stop is in Mustafapaa, which was originally known as Sinasos, an old village where Turks and Greeks lived
side by side and where old Greek stone houses can still be seen. The Greeks left the village during the exchange of
populations in 1923 agreed in the Treaty of Lausanne, and many of the houses have been abandoned since then or
later turned into hotels.
After that you drive through Taknpaa which has some of the best examples of Seljuk architecture in the district.
The village houses follow the traditional plan, with stables on the ground floor to keep the upper floor rooms warm.
There was also a medrese, an Islamic theological college there, but to this day only the impressive-looking doorway
has been preserved.
Then you visit Sobessos, a recently discovered archaeological site from the Roman era, located near ahinefendi
village. A large meeting hall with beautiful mosaics has been excavated. The site also contains a Roman bath with a
well-preserved underfloor heating system.
Next you drive through ahin Efendi, where you can observe typical local peasants doing their daily chores, dressed
in traditional national costumes. You can also see the huge storage caves in the surronding hills where fruit and
vegetables are stored.
After that the tour takes you for a short walk in Soanli valley, where there are many different churches with
reasonably well preserved frescoes dating from the 10th to the 13th centuries. You can also buy the most famous local
souvenir, the Soanli doll here. At the end of the valley you have lunch in a local restaurant.
The next stop is in Derinkuyu, the deepest underground city in the area, which is approximately 85 meters deep and
has 16 floors, 8 of which you can see during your guided tour. It was used to hide Christians during enemy attacks in
the 5th to 10th centuries. The city was built around 8th century BC, it could accommodate about 20 000 people and
had all the usual amenities found in other underground complexes across Cappadocia, such as wine and oil presses,
stables, cellars, storage rooms, refectories, and chapels.
The last stop is just outside Uhisar, where you have an opportunity to taste the famous local Cappadocian wines at
Kocaba winery.

Historians tell us the inhabitants would roll these 1000 pound stones across the opening to prevent invaders from
penetrating further into the habitation. Do not peak through the hole unless you want a spear in your eye socket!
DERINKUYU UNDERGROUND CITY
The first stop was 35 minutes away in Derinkuyu for the underground city. Our guide took time on the trip down to
explain some of the history of Cappadocia, asked everyone their names and countries of origin, and prepared us for
what to expect in Derinkuyu. She started at the ventilation shaft above ground and then took us into the climate
controlled underground tunnels. Only 25% of the troglodytic city is open to the public and excavations are ongoing.
What we saw went 8 stories underground and included a winery, a baptismal, meeting rooms, a church, a well, a
grave, and a kitchen, but no toilets. Hmmm? Historians guess that up to 2000 people could have lived in the city at one
time. The stank must have been excruciating! The guess is that it was used only during invasions to hide from
enemies and only for a couple of months at a time. The structure dates back thousands of years. Apparently, the
Hittites used the first two floors for their animals. Over time the different local inhabitants dug deeper and deeper.
They say that every house in the town has a basement that connects to the subterranean metropolis. The above
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ground invaders must have wondered if they had entered a ghost town or magical land with disappearing people! We
wondered if we were going to encounter the Balrog around the next corner and kept listening for drums. Given that
Cappadocian winters are quite harsh (this region was once called the Land of Snow), wood is scarce, and the
temperature undeground is steady throughout the year, I wonder if the locals used the underground areas in the
winter as an easy way to stay warm?
We had a few minutes to look around after returning to sunlight and then were off for the 30 minute ride to Ihlara
Valley, a lush, green river canyon that is my familys favorite place in Cappadocia. The valley is 14 km long, and we
were dropped off at about the 3km point. After descending a couple of hundred stairs to the canyon floor, our guide
showed us the Aaalt cave church dating to the 4th century with paintings from the 10th century.
After that we freely followed the flat, winding path along the river surrounded by towering cliffs bejeweled with caves
and echoing 1500 years of secrets. 3-4 kilometers later we stopped at a riverside restaurant for lunch which
included soup, salad, and a choice between, trout, chicken, vegetarian, or meatballs. Most of the dishes were
baked/broiled except for the grilled chicken and Adana i. Drinks were extra (a can of juice cost 4TL and a half-liter
bottle of water was 1TL).

SELIME MONASTERY
Back in the van and 25 minutes later we arrived at the base of a pockmarked cliff towering over an old Greek village
and some freaky cone-shaped rocks. Little could we have suspected what awaited us. We ascended the steep lower
section of the mount past the first couple of fairy chimney formations from whence our guide gave us the general
layout of the monastery before turning us loose for half an hour to explore. The monastery dates from the 8th-10th
centuries and included a missionary school, a living area, and at least one church. Across the valley the opposite cliff
housed a twin female monastery. For the brave there are footholes carved in the rock leading all the way up the cliff.
We were forbidden from attempting this route and nobody tested fate. We did not need to as the available complex
was awe inspiring and kept us busy for the allotted time. Clearly the different rooms were all covered and connected
at one point but are now partially exposed due to erosion and falling rocks. The rooms are massive with carved
second floors and balcony levels. Our group walked around with exclamations of Wow!, Amazing!, Can you
believe this?, and How did they do this? regularly flowing off our tongues. The 30 foot ceilings were hard to explain.
PIGEON VALLEY PHOTO OPP After descending back to the parking lot we began the hour long drive to Pigeon Valley
during which everyone enjoyed a bouncy nap.
We were given 10 minutes to take pictures of the valley and Uhsar rock tower/castle, feed the pigeons, look at the
evil eye tree, and shop for more of the souvenirs we had seen at every other stand along the way. ONYX JEWELRY
FACTORY & DEMONSTRATION Our guide gathered us again, and we crossed the street to the Onyx jewelry factory.
We began with a demonstration of carving a piece of white onyx on a lathe into the shape of an egg. Afterwards we
were free to tour the sales room and look at beautiful, overpriced jewelry.
GREME PANORAMA10 minutes later we were at our last stop overlooking the town of Greme. Honestly at this
point everyone was ready to be done. The view is breathtaking making it clear why Greme is unique in the world and
the most popular place for overnight accomodation in Cappadocia.
HOME & SUMMARYDown the hill, and we were back in Greme being dropped off at the hotel. I looked at my watch
and it read 5:53pm. My friend and I agreed that the tour could not have gone better; it included the perfect number of
attractions, we never felt rushed or bored, and by the end we were ready to be done. Details: Sometimes called the
Green Tour and sometimes called the Red Tour. Whatever the name, on this tour we visit Derinkuyu Underground
City where Cappadocians have lived and hidden themselves at times of danger for thousands of years, then Nar Golu
volcanic crater lake viewpoint. The beautiful Ihlara Canyon, also known as the "Valley of the Sky", which lies about
100km distant is the main destination of this tour. The entrance is a spectacular panorama where you can see the full
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height of the canyon with the Melendiz river at the bottom. Villages on the willow-lined banks are still the home of
traditional rural life, and you may spot women drying foodstuffs on the roofs of their houses, spinning wool or milking
goats. You should also look out for villagers using horses to plough their small fields and carrying wood back to their
homes on donkeys. There are a few churches worth visiting including Sumbullu Church, Aachalt Church, Purenli Seki
Church, Kokar Church and Yilanli church. Lunch at Belisirma (the middle village), gives an opportunity to sample a
dish of local fish while relaxing to the sound of the water flowing by. After lunch, it's fun to visit the remains of the old
mill (bezirhane) which once produced linseed oil used for lighting before electricity arrived. After meeting up with our
driver we stop at Selime with its cave houses, monastery and rock pinnacles. Finally, we can drop in at a 13th
Century Agzikarahan Caravanseri (Seljuk period motel for camel trains) on our return.

The major concentration of historic sights is on or around the high hill topped by Ankara's ancient Hisar (Citadel),
including the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations (map).
Museum of Anatolian Civilizations
Housed in a historic caravanserai holding the artistic wealth of 7500 years, this excellent museum is especially rich in
art and artifacts from the Hittite era (2600 to 1300 BCE). Note that the museum is undergoing renovation and
extension work, and only two exhibit halls are open through 2014.
Hisar (Citadel)
The very oldest part of Ankara is this hilltop fortress, sometimes called the kale. You can wander into its mighty walls
and climb to the top to enjoy the view, and you'll find yourself...in an honest-to-goodness Turkish village! Except for
the lack of crops and livestock, the people here live the village life. More...
engel Han Rahmi M Ko Museum
Located in a former caravanserai built in 1522, its displays include Engineering, Road Transport, Scientific
Instruments, Maritime, Everyday Life, and others.
There's a museum shop and two places for meals: the Divan Caf (with a delightful outdoor terrace), or the
sophisticated Divan Brasserie in the courtyard.
ROMAN BATHS
Address: Cankiri Avenue, Ulus, Ankara, Turkey, TR
Situated on Cankiri Caddesi, just north of Ulus Meydani, the Roman Baths date back to the 3rd century AD and are well
maintained. You can clearly see the heating system for the baths, as well as the dressing room (apoditerium), the hot
room (caldarium), the warm room (tepidarium), and the cold room (frigidarium). Beneath the baths are 7th century
BC remains from the Phrygian period.
Open hours: daily - 08:30 to 12:00 and 13:00 to 15:30
TEMPLE OF AUGUSTUS AND ROME
Address: Ulus, Ankara, Turkey, TR
Although closed to the public due to its state of disrepair, the Temple of Augustus and Rome, built in 10 AD by the
Galatians, retains the best-preserved copy of the Deeds of Deified Augustus (Res Gestae Divi Augusti), which detail the
Roman Empire. The Romans revamped the temple in the 2nd century although nearly 2,000 years of weather and
seismic activity have taken their toll on this rather ancient attraction. Plans to restore the temple are underway.
Open hours: daily
Admission: view from exterior only
Antiques Shops
Samanpazar is the Ankara neighborhood known for its antiques shops, and serious antiques shoppers know that
you find better buys in Ankara than in Istanbul. From the fortress entrance, walk east (away from the Museum of
Anatolian Civilizations) along Atpazar Sokak downhill and you'll pass numerous antiques shops. Turn right (south) at
the end of the street and continue downhill to the Ahi erafettin Mosque on Can Sokak. Keep the mosque on your left
and continue downhill past even more antiques shops.
Ahi erafettin (Aslanhane) Mosque & Tomb
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The Seljuk Turkish Ahi Serafettin Mosque & Tomb has been here on the slope of the citadel hill since 1290, though
obviously restored more recently. Unfortunately, it is usually open only at prayer times, so if you're eager to visit this
700+-year-old mosque, plan to arrive about 15 to 20 minutes after the call to prayer.
Hac Bayram Mosque & Tomb
Hac Bayram Veli (1352-1430) was a Sufi (Muslim mystic) teacher born near Ankara. He became a follower of Sheikh
Hamiduddin Veli, and after the sheik's death in 1412 he assumed leadership of the sheikh's followers, a Sufi order that
became known as the Bayrami. Because of his wisdom and erudition Hac Bayram was an advisor to Sultan Murat II
(1404-1451), father of Sultan Mehmet II "The Conqueror."
Haci Bayram's memory is revered in Ankara, and his tomb and mosque, built on the site of the Bayrami tekke (Sufi
lodge), right next to the ruined Temple of Augustus and Rome, is a place of pilgrimage.
Roman Ankara
At the foot of the citadel hill near Ulus Square are the remains of Roman Ankara, including the ruined Temple of
Augustus and Rome (right next to the Hac Bayram Mosque and Tomb), the Column of Julian, and the extensive
Roman baths. More...
Turkish Republic Museums
The founding of the Turkish Republic (1923) on the ruins of the defeated Ottoman Empire is one of the 20th
century's most absorbing national stories. Turkish history buffs will want to visit the two buildings used for the
earliest meetings of the Turkish Grand National Assembly (Trkiye Byk Millet Meclisi, Turkey's parliament), now
museums, just down the hill from Ulus Square on Cumhuriyet Caddesi.
Antkabir
The Antkabir (Monumental Tomb) of the founder of the Turkish Republic, Kemal Atatrk (1881-1938), crowns a
hilltop in the Maltepe district. The great monument itself and a small museum of Atatrk's life are open to the public.

Primul popas a fost la un lac vulcanic Nar Lake, un ochi verde golas, pitit intr-un crater vulcanic, fara padure
imprejur, ceea ce ii mai scade din frumusete. Cappadocia a fost regiunea unde au actionat acum cateva milioane de ani
doi vulcani: Erciyes, 3916metri inaltime, aflat spre orasul Kayseri si Hasan, de 3253 m, situat mai la sud; ei au aruncat,
la eruptii, peste regiune, straturi succesive de cenusa sau de lava, mai vascoasa sau mai fluida si s-au format straturi
succesive de roci vulcanice tuf vulcanic, bazalt, granit, mai mult sau mai putin dure, care au reactionat diferentiat la
eroziunea creata de precipiatii, de vanturi, luand astfel nastere peisajul selenar, specific cappadocian.
A urmat canionul Ihlara, impresionanta falie geologica, o vale lunga de 14 km, cu pereti abrupti de 100 m, creata de
raul Melendiz, intre Selime si Belisirma, si in care se afla numeroase biserici rupestre. De obicei, se face o drumetie de
4 km, prin vale, insa noi, dupa ce am aruncat un ochi la biserica Ala, am coborat repede in vale, printr-o zona inverzita,
cu multi plopi, spre zona de restaurant Belisirma, dotat cu mici cabane deschise din lemn, ridicate chiar pe rau, unde
vin sa ia pranzul toate puhoaiele de turisti, obositi de drumetia prin canion. Chiar daca e cam aglomerat, e placut sa iei
in masa intr-un astfel de decor rustico-fluvial.
Manastirea-catedrala Selime, situata la capatul opus al vaii Ihlara, a fost un obstacol ce parea greu de depasit, la timp
de siesta, fiind situata pe coasta stancoasa si abrupta a unui munte prafos. Este, de fapt, un intreg ansamblu monastic,
ce merita cu prisosinta osteneala, datand din secolul al XIII-lea, sapat in stanca, cu toate acareturile bisericesti
aferente (capela, manastirea in sine, spatii de depozitare, scoala, bucatarie), cu o panorama cu roci tuguiate, stil Star
Wars spre partea cealalta a vaii Yaprakhisar.
O scurta oprire a fost la caravenseraiul Azkarahan, loc de popas pe drumul matasii, ce isi avea itinerariul prin tinutul
cappadocian, terminat de construit la 1239 si aflat acum in reparatii. In evul mediu camilele mergeau cam 40 km pe zi
si, din aceasta cauza, erau construite, la fiecare 40 km, astfel de motele avant la lettre, unde portile se inchideau
imediat dupa lasarea intunericului, pentru ca averea negutatorilor sa fie pusa la adapost, iar camilele parcate sa se
odihneasca. Ghidul-Kadir ne-a mai spus, dar nu stiu in ce masura este si adevarat, ca daca se ia o piatra situta
deasupra intrarii, se prabuseste intrgul ansamblu. Un alt carvenserai este amplasat mai aproape de Goreme, si anume
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Saruhan, unde pt. 25 Euro/pers., se tine o ceremonie veritabila Sema, de cca ora, cu dervisi rotitori veritabili (ce am
vazut noi la turkish night erau niste epigoni, in fine, buni si ei ca sa iti faci o idee):
Sufi Deoarece la orasul subteran Derinkuyu erau niste cozi monstruoase am ajuns si la orasul subteran Tatlarin.
Aceste orase sunt unice in lume si sunt marca inregistrata Cappadocia: au inceput sa fie construite acum cca 3000 de
ani, de catre hititi, generatii intregi contribuind ulterior la largirea, adancirea lor (pe zeci de metri, Derinkuyu avand
peste 8 etaje in adancime) si la construirea de tunele de legatura intre ele. Sisteme ingenioase de ventilatie, spatii de
dormit, de depozitare, usi rotunde imense de piatra care sa blocheze, in caz de pericol, coridoarele inguste si putin
inalte, spatii claustrofobice, iata cam ce se poate vedea intr-un oras subteran! Tatlarin este mai putin vizitat, nu era
nimeni chiar la momentul vizitei noastre, are doar doua etaje vizitabile si este celebru pentru ca, dintre cele 36 de
orase subterane, este unul dintre singurele doua care avea si toalete!
Valea Alba si Valea Dragostei La iesirea din Uchisar spre Goreme inecepe Valea Alba, numita asa dupa culoarea rocilor
ce o marginesc, continuata cu Valea Dragostei (Baglidere), denumita dupa forma erotica a stancilor, prilej de glume si
aluzii licentioase (forma asemanatoare am mai vazut si in prima zi, in valea Gorkundere). Am fost lasati la capatul vaii
si am vorbit cu Kadir, sa-l sunam, sa vina sa ne ia cand iesim la capatul vaii, dupa 4-5 km, ceea ce s-a intamplat, dupa
vreo trei ore. Este valea in care am intalnit si cei mai putin turisti, poate si pentru ca era dupa ora 17, cel putin in vale
Alba, era pustiu.
1. Muzeul n aer liber Goreme Este situat la vreo 2 kilometri de centrul localitii Goreme, deci se poate ajunge i pe
jos. Intrarea cost 20 lire turceti/adult. Dac ntreaga regiune Cappadocia este presrat cu biserici rupestre, n zona
muzeului densitatea lor este maxim, fiind un ansamblu monahal complex, cu multe biserici troglodite, provenind din
perioada bizantin, mai ales din secolele X-XII, unele cu fresce deosebite (Karanlik Kilise Biserica Intunecat, la care
se mai pltete, separat nc 10 lire, pentru c i-a fost refcut pictura, Tokali Kilise Biserica Buclei cea mai
frumoas, dup mine, cu un albastru asemntor celui de la Vorone, situat la circa 50 metri mai jos de ieirea din
muzeu, pstrai, deci biletul de intrare!). Am intrat i n Yilanli Kilise (Biserica arpelui), Elmali Kilise (Biserica
Mrului), Carikli (Biserica Sandalelor), Sfnta Barbara i Sfnta Ecaterina; toate sunt mrturii ale tradiiei anahorete,
adusa de Sfinii Prini Capadocieni, ce au determinat numeroi monahi s se retrag pe aceste meleaguri, s triasc
n post i rugciune, atrai de vile izolate i peisajul auster, cu stnci din tuf vulcanic, uor de scobit pentru chilii i
capele.
Zona Goreme este inclus n patrimoniul mondial UNESCO, nc din 1985, motivele, pe care le preiau de pe siteul
oficial, fiind: Criterion (i): Owing to their quality and density, the rupestral sanctuaries of Cappadocia constitute a
unique artistic achievement offering irreplaceable testimony to the post-iconoclastic Byzantine art period. Criterion (iii):
The rupestral dwellings, villages, convents and churches retain the fossilized image of a province of the Byzantine Empire
between the 4th century and the arrival of the Seljuk Turks (1071). Thus, they are the essential vestiges of a civilization
which has disappeared. Criterion (v): Cappadocia is an outstanding example of a traditional human settlement which has
become vulnerable under the combined effects of natural erosion and, more recently, tourism.Criterion (vii): In a
spectacular landscape dramatically demonstrating erosional forces, the Greme Valley and its surroundings provide a
globally renowned and accessible display of hoodoo landforms and other erosional features, which are of great beauty,
and which interact with the cultural elements of the landscape.
Muzeul nu permite o experien religioas autentica, este asaltat permanent de valuri de turiti, nu se fac slujbe i este
tratat de ctre autoritile turceti, din punctul meu de vedere, ca un simplu obiectiv turistic, laic, aductor de venituri
consistente, ce nu par s fie reinvestite n recondiionarea numeroaselor fresce degradate. Biserici rupestre, mult mai
prielnice reculegerii i rugciunii, cu gandul la pustnicii ce s-au canonit prin aceste vai obscure, sunt cele mult mai
izolate, rar frecventate de turiti, pe Valea Trandafirului (de ex. Kolonlu, Biserica Coloanelor) i Valea Roie.
2. Cele trei frumusei rgp Dup muzeu, a urmat o scurt oprire pentru fotografii lng oraul rgp (aflat la 9
kilometrii est de Goreme), unde se afl o grupare de stnci denumite Cele trei frumusei. Ele fac parte din seria de
stnci denumite de englezi - hoodoos (fairy chimneys), de francezi - chemines de fe, iar n romn s-ar traduce
hornuri ale znelor.Formarea lor, ca i a celorlalte celebre stnci capadociene, cu forme ciudate, se datoreaz
existenei unor straturi succesive, diferite, de roci vulcanice, provenite din lave cu caracteristici variate, piroclastite i
nori arztori, depuse peste regiune, de vulcanii Erciyes i Hasan. De obicei, n straturile mai joase, se afl ignimbrit,
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roc asemntoare tufului i pietrei ponce, care se erodeaz mai uor (i n care au fost spate i bisericile amintite
mai sus), iar n straturile superioare se afl bazalt sau granit, roci mai dure, care acioneaz ca un scut protector
pentru straturile de roci de dedesubt. De-a lungul a milioane de ani, eroziunea exercitat de apele curgtoare, din
precipitaii i eroziunea eolian au sculptat aceste roci, in special ignimbritul, rezultnd forme de ciuperci, piramide,
plrii, foarte inalte, cum sunt i cele trei frumusei de la rgp.
3. Muzeul n aer liber Zelve Este situat la cca 10 kilometri de Goreme, pe drumul spre Avanos. Intrarea - 10 lire.
Reprezint un ora fantom, amplasat n trei vi stancoase, ce a fost locuit pn n 1952, cnd populaia a fost nevoit
s plece, din cauza eroziunii si cderilor de stnci. Este un exemplu tipic, pentru Cappadocia, de aezare troglodit.
Chiar tatl ghidului nostru era nscut n Zelve. Se aseamn cu Muzeul n aer liber Goreme, ns aici peisajul este mult
mai spectaculos caverne mari, versanii mai nali, suprafa de patru ori mai mare, vi mai adnci. Bisericile sunt
puine, vreo trei parc, dar exist o moschee. Pn n 1923, cnd s-a format Republica Turcia, sub conducerea lui
Mustafa Kemal Atatrk, Zelve a fost locuit de o comunitate de turci i greci, acetia din urm fiind forai s plece, n
acelai an, n cadrul unui schimb de populaie ntre Grecia i Turcia, pe criterii religioase i etnice, ca urmare a
tratatului de la Lausanne. Motenirea cultural greac se regsete i n alte zone din Cappadocia, n care noi nu am
ajuns, cum ar fi Mustafapaa. Recomand muzeul Zelve, totul este mai grandios dect la muzeul n aer liber Goreme,
mult mai puin aglomerat i cu posibiliti mai mari de explorare, pe cont propriu, a unui ora troglodit fantom.
Trebuie cteva ore bune ca s vezi ntregul ansamblu, noi am stat vreo dou i nu am fost peste tot.
4. Valea Devrent O alt scurt oprire, la scurt distan de muzeul Zelve, a fost n Valea Devrent, denumit i Valea
Imaginaiei, unde formele stncilor iau cele mai bizare aspecte cmil (cea mai fotografiat), plria bicorn a lui
Napoleon, cobre, foci, aligator. Se poate merge pe poteci i prin aceast zon, noi doar ne-am mulumit cu poze la
repezeal, de pe marginea drumului.
5. Avanos Este un mic ora situat la 10 km nord de Goreme, denumit Venessa n perioada roman, celebru pentru
tradiia olritului, un fel de Horezu al nostru, traversat de rul Kizilirmak, cel mai lung din Turcia (1150 km), i care se
vars n Marea Neagr. Ne-am oprit pentru poze n centru, cu rul n fundal, patrulat elegant de crduri de rae i
gte, apoi ne-am propit la un restaurant n regim all-inclusiv, denumit complet neoriginal Avanos. Masa de prnz
este inclus n preul acestor tururi organizate i am vzut, iari, calitatea serviciilor turistice turceti n domeniul
culinar, dovada fiind abundena de autocare cu turiti, de toate naiile, sosii s-i potoleasc foamea, sporit de
alergtura turistic.
6. Paaba n traducere, din turc, nseamn Via lui Paa Via Generalului i am uitat s menionez c am vzut foarte
multe suprafee cultivate cu vii n Cappadocia, lucrate tradiional. Paaba este un ansamblu de stnci, celebre pentru
aspectul lor de ciuperc (unii zic de clugri), foarte nalte, de 15-20 metri. Un supliment de atracie pentru copii a
fost cmila, negociat, pentru poze i o scurt plimbare, la 25 de lire.
7. avuin Mic sat situa la 3-4 km de Goreme. Cunoscut pentru oraul vechi, care n prezent, ca i Zelve, este
abandonat. O bucat uria de roc, ciuruit ca un vaier, de vechile locuine i biserici (am urcat pn la biserica
Sfntului Ioan Boteztorul, din sec. al V-lea, situat spre vrf, de unde se deschid pespective la 360 grade asupra
ntregii zone, ca i la Uchisar).
8. Valea Trandafirilor Dup o pauz de odihn la hotel, spre seara am mers cu Kadir, tot cu maina, pn la intrarea
pe Valea Trandafirilor (Glldere II, pentru c mai este i Glldere I), s vedem apusul pe stncile roiatice. Am urcat
urcat, printr-un peisaj slbatec :), pn la un punct de popas, unde se servea ceai, cafea i sucuri din fructe naturale.
Panorama a fost excelent i a meritat efortul. Tot aici se afl i biserica Crucii - Hal Kilise.
Goreme Open Air Museum: cave churches with frescoes
Zelve Open Air Museum: an empty cave town with churches
Kaymakli Underground City: the largest underground city
Derinkuyu Underground City: the deepest underground city
Ihlara Valley: the deepest gorge of Anatolia
Uchisar: Roman rock-cut castle
Ortahisar: Roman rock-cut castle
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Avanos: center of pottery since the Hittites
Pasabag: mushroom-shaped fairy chimneys, monks valley
Devrent: animal-shaped fairy chimneys, imagination valley
Hacibektas: center of Bektasi sect of Islam
Gulsehir: first settlements in Cappadocia
Forgotten Cave Churches: churches located in the valleys
Caravanserais: 13th century hotels on the silk road
Caravanserais have been used since the 10th century. Trade across Turkey in medieval Seljuk times was dependent
on camel trains (kervan, anglicized as caravan), which stopped by night in inns known as kervansaray or caravanserai
, literally 'caravan palaces'. These buildings provided accommodation and other amenities for the merchants and
stabling for their animals. Caravanseraies were first seen in Central Asia during the times of Caravans, Ghaznavids and
the Great Seljuk State. They were building fortresses called "Ribat". These buildings, first constructed as small
buildings for military uses were later developed and changed into larger buildings and were used for both religious
purposes and as inns for travelers. Especially during the times of Seljuk Sultans Kilicarslan II and Alaaddin
Keykubat I, the construction of these buildings increased after the security of the trading roads was provided by the
state. The loss of the trades would be met by the states, which is accepted to be the first insurance system. During
that period, both domestic and foreign trades prospered. In this way, the Seljuks, who were already economically
powerful, became politically strong, too. In caravanserais, foreign as well as native traders, would be put up for
three days. Their shoes would be repaired or the poor would be given new shoes. The ill would be treated and animals
would be tended and, if needed horses would be shoed. For their religious practices, they would use the "Kosk
Mescid", a small mosque, in the center of the courtyard. The "Kosk Mescid", usually located in the centre of the
courtyard, was the most important part of the caravanserais. These mosques were normally built on an arched base.
The courtyards are normally surrounded with bedrooms, depots, bath house and bathrooms. "Mangals" (braziers)
or "tandirs" (oven in the ground) were used to heat the places whereas candles and lamps were used for light. All
services were provided by the people working in caravanserais; e.g., doctor, imam (prayer leader), depot officer,
veterinarian, messenger, blacksmith, and cook. Stones cut from the volcanic rock were used in the construction of the
caravanserais in the region of Cappadocia. For defense purposes, their walls were constructed like castle walls. Some
of the best examples of Seljuk stonemasonry can be seen at the entrances, called "Tac Kapi". Although dragon, lion
motifs and floral designs most frequently used, in Cappadocia geometrical designs were generally preferred. The
doors were made of iron. Caravanserais were built along roads running from Antalya - Konya - Kayseri to the land
of Turkomans passing through Erzurum and Tabriz and from the Black Sea region to Iraq via Amasya - Tokat - Sivas -
Malatya - Diyarbakir at a distance of 30-40km, a one day camel trek.

It is possible to see some of the most beautiful examples of caravanserais in the region of Cappadocia, especially
between Aksaray and Kayseri, since it is an intersection, east to west and south to north; Sultanhani in Aksaray,
Agzikarahan in Aksaray and Sarihan in Avanos. The kervansarays of Cappadocia in central Turkey were built of
hewn volcanic stone, and their walls were thick and high so that they would be safe from raids by robbers. Decoration
was concentrated on the great portals which display the finest examples of Seljuk stone carving. The richly carved
portal of Aksaray Sultanhani which projects from the walls, and the towers at each corner lend the building a
monumental aspect. The portal is made of marble of several colors and leads into the courtyard, in the centre of which
is a pavilion mosque. Along the right-hand side of the courtyard is a decoratedcolonnade and to the left storage rooms
and chambers. To the north is an area where both animals and people were accommodated. The next caravanserai
(kervansaray) located on this route, 15 km outside Aksaray on the Nevsehir road, is Agzikarahan (Black Mouth),
which bears the same name as the village where it is situated. It is alternatively known as Hoca Mesud Kervansaray,
after its founder. The first of its two inscriptions tell us that its construction was commenced in 1231 by a wealthy
merchant named Hoca Mesud bin Abdullah and completed in 1239. The hall was built during this time by Alaaddin
Keykubat I and the courtyard by his son Giyaseddin Keyhusrev II (1237-1246). With its great portals, pavilion
mosque, towers and other architectural features, this caravanserai is reminiscent of the castle-like royal hans
(Sultanhani). The pavilion mosque is raised upon a four arched sub-structure and stands in the middle of the
courtyard, which is surrounded by colonnades and closed rooms. The carved decoration of Agzikarahan is notable
for the absence of the human figures, animals and floral motifs typical of the period. The hamam or bath house is in
the rectangular building standing apart to the south.

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Agzikarahan is followed by Tepesidelik Han (also known as Oresin Han) 17 km away. This caravanserai has a
covered courtyard and since the inscription is missing, it is not known exactly when it was built or by whom.
Researchers agree however, that it probably dates from the third quarter of the 13th century. The portal and part of
the dome are in ruins, but the spaces roofed by cradle vaults and supported by symmetrically placed groups of three
columns around the pendentive dome are striking in appearance. A further 12 km on is Alayhan, one of the first
caravanserais built by sultans, but now divided in two by the present Aksaray-Nevsehir road. This building may be
what in written sources is referred to as the Kilicarslan II Kervansaray. Royal caravanserais generally consisted of one
open and one covered section. Unfortunately the open section of this kervansaray has been completely destroyed,
leaving only part of the covered section consisting of three bays roofed by seven vaults. The portal is decorated with
geometric motifs and seven rows of mukarnas (stalactite) carving, and features a carved lion with a single head and
double body. We next come to Sarihan Caravanserai in the province of Nevsehir on the road between to Kayseri.
Sarihan (also spelled as Saruhan, meaning Yellow Caravanserai) covers an area of 2000 square meters and was built
during the reign of Izzettin Keykavus II (1249-1254), perhaps by him, in 1249. It is constructed of smoothly hewn
yellow, pink and beige stone. Two contrasting colors of stone are used to decorative effect on the arches of the main
outer portal and inner portal. Restoration of this caravanserai, parts of which were in ruins, was completed in 1991.
This was the last caravanserai to be built by the Seljuk sultans. Today, the whirling dervishes ceremonie is
performed nightly at the Sarihan Caravanserai. Another important caravanserai is Kayseri Sultanhani in the
village of Tuzhisar 45 km from Kayseri on the Sivas Road. The inscription on its hall portal tells us that it was built
between 1232 and 1236 by Alaaddin Keykubat I. This caravanserai covers an area of 3900 square meters and its plan
is similar to that of Aksaray Sultanhani. The portal in the north wall is flanked by semicircular towers with square
bases. Although this partially ruined portal is typical of classical Seljuk portals, the towers enhance its grandeur. A hall
with high arches leads into the square courtyard, in the centre of which is a pavilion mosque raised on arches. On the
northwest side of the courtyard is a domed hamam in five sections which is entered via a door at the northwest corner
of the arcade to the right. This caravanserai was restored in 1951.

The last caravanserai in Cappadocia area is Karatayhan built by Celaleddin Karatay on the old Kayseri-Malatya road,
part of the main trade route into Syria. Construction commenced during the reign of Alaaddin Keykubat and was
completed during that of his son Giyaseddin Keyhusrev in 1240/1241. The inscription opens with the words, 'This
building belongs to God, who is One, Eternal, and Everlasting'. Celaleddin Karatay came from Kayseri to see the
finished building, and was so overwhelmed by its magnificence that he sped away again, afraid that he would be
carried away by pride in his own accomplishment. The endowment deed of Karatayhan tells us that it was built to
serve both commercial and social functions. The ornately carved portal which dominates the south wall measures 46
by 80 meters, and projects both beyond and above the wall. The decoration includes floriate and figurative as well as
geometric motifs, which distinguishes it from other caravanserais. An eyvan (open-fronted vaulted hall) with pointed
vault leads from the portal into the courtyard. Along the eastern side of the courtyard is a series of long narrow
chambers with pointed vaults opening directly onto the courtyard, while an arcade runs down the western side. Like
the towns and villages through which the trade roads passed, the vicinity of the caravanserai once turned into small
commercial centers. This was true of Karatayhan, which in the 13th century stood at a junction of roads. When
Europeans found new ways to China, the Silk Road started to lose importance and of course the caravanserais as well.
After the 15th and 16th centuries, most of the caravanserais were never used again.
I think this falls into the eye of the beholder category. Westerners may consider Turks behavior related to evil
spirits superstitious, while Turks consider themselves to be wise and safety-conscious. In this post I want to help
foreigners understand an integral part of the Turkish worldview, namely their perspective on evil spirits and the Evil
Eye.
NAZAR BONCUU EVIL EYE BEAD
One of the most popular items available to tourists are the Nazar Boncuular or Evil Eye Beads which could also be
called amulets. The literal translation for nazar is look or glance, generally understood to be in an evil intentioned
way and boncuk is bead, thus Evil Eye Bead. You will find them in every souvenir stand. Not only that, you will
find them on almost every Turk you meet. Pretty much every Turk I know has one somewhere- keychain, welcome
mat, doorframe, wallet, childs sweater,
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THE TURKIC WORLD & EVIL SPIRITS
I have lived in three Turkic countries and all of them have the fear of the evil eye in common. They express it
differently, but they all express it. In Kazakhstan you could not praise something without spitting on it, and I do
mean spitting. Also, you should not actually say something nice, instead say something bad in a very kind voice. In this
way you would fool the evil spirits who were looking to hurt precious things. Our children were often wiping drops
of saliva off of their face or clothes. Oh, that baby/child is so ugly, so horrible, can you believe how preciously ugly it
is!, said in a high-pitched cooing voice that people use when talking to babies. In speaking thusly the evil spirits are
fooled. Once we moved to Uzbekistan we did not have to deal with the spitting anymore but the fear was still ever-
present. As in Kazakstan they spoke in negative-positives while making a spitting sound (without actually spitting),
and every child had a safety pin with little beads pinned to his/her outfit for protection. Even if an Uzbek did not
believe in it, they still used it to be on the safe side. Then we moved to Turkey Turks are known for being astute
businessmen, and they were the first group we were among who realized foreigners would buy the amulets. But they
are not only a souvenir. As I said above, most every Turk owns at least one.
ALL LEVELS OF SOCIETY
You may be thinking this is something only for the ignorant villagers. You would be wrong. In Ankara we lived in a
building with 8 apartments. Our neighbors were all middle class, well educated Turks. Among them was a retired
Navy officer getting his PhD, a retired Turkish Airlines pilot, an accountant who graduated from the best university in
the country and spoke fluent English, and a variety of other people. Our apartment was the only one that did not have
an evil eye bead on the doorframe or the welcome mat. In Cappadocia I see them less often but in a recent
conversation I realized they were just as present. I asked my friend Hakan and his partner about them since I did not
see any in their shop. One guy said he did not believe in it. The other said it did not matter, the important thing was
Allah. However, when pressed, both of them showed me their amulet keychains. Heres another story I have a
friend who owns a hotel. In the lobby he has a beautiful ivy plant growing all through it. It was probably over twenty
feet long at its longest point. Over the last 6 months or so it died. I asked him about it, and he replied that he did not
know what happened. He had not done anything different in his care of the plant. Then he said, Maybe it was the evil
eye. Everyone comes in here and exclaims how beautiful it is and how they cant believe that it grows like it does.
Maybe that is what killed it. There was no hint of sarcasm in his voice.
MY UNDERSTANDING: THE EVIL EYE
I have asked many Turkish friends about this topic, and here is what I have found. I still only understand a little and so
would appreciate anything you have to add in the comments.

* The color blue seems to be key. All the nazar boncuular are different shades of blue. I once was wearing a watch
with embedded turquoise rocks my dad had bought in Arizona and a friend said Turks would think I was wearing it
for protection from evil spirits. * The evil eye bead is not a replica of the evil eye. The amulet is a pretty object that is
supposed to draw the evil spirits attention away from the object that is being protected. Instead of seeing the object,
people will see the bead and will not speak in such a way as to alert evil spirits to harm the protected object. Also,
perhaps the spirits will themselves be distracted by the bead. * I have heard Turkish friends speak of this occurrence
in two ways. On the one hand they are worried someone will be jealous or envious of them, perhaps of a beautiful
child or a new car. This is one reason they will slaughter a sheep when they buy a new house, for example. The other is
that people have hidden motives when speaking nice things. Some would even say that people praise things in order
to provoke evil spirits to harm them. * The combination of this fear with a communal/peer pressure shame culture
pretty much forces everyone to fall in line. Of course, there are some conservative, Muslim Turks who try to closely
follow the Quran and know that it forbids such amulets as well as Christian Turks who believe God protects them from
evil spirits. Those Turks are the only ones I have met who go against the grain. * I expect in writing this I will bring
secular Turks out of the woodwork who do not ascribe to what I have written. We will see. If you are out there, I
would love to hear from you. I am not criticizing in this post, but rather stating the facts as I understand them.
Personally, I believe in evil spirits, but I have found other means of protection.
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Satul Greme este format pe jumatate din case in pesteri, insa toatele cele trei vai - Greme, Gorkun si Kiliclar - sunt
presarate cu faimoasele hornuri din tuf vulcanic - Hoodoo sau coloane de piatra. Satul Greme este asezat in jurul asa-
numitului Castel Roman - un horn cu un sarcofag roman.

Coloane din tuf vulcanic - Hoodoo - au fost formate in urma eroziunii stancilor produsa de factorii de mediu. Greme a
fost un important loc religios si primul refugiu la crestinilor care fugeau de soldatii romani. Acestia si-au facut in
Greme manastiri, biserici si case in stancile vulcanice, pentru a se ascunde cu usurinta. Orasul subteran Derinkuyu -
Derinkuyu Yeralti Sehri - este cel mai mare oras de acest fel din Cappadocia. Din totalul de nivele opt sunt deschise
publicului, cel mai adanc nivel ajungand la adancimea de 54 m.

Orasul subteran Derinkuyu dateaza probabil din timpuri Hitite, insa excavatii recente au scos la iveala faptul ca
asezarea este mult mai veche. Pana acum au fost descoperite opt straturi de asezari cu locuinte, depozite, biserici si
manastiri partiale, aglomerate cu pietre ce seamana cu pietrele funerare. Grotele sapate de oameni sunt grupate in
jurul unui put de 85m, cu un sistem de ventilatie ce consta in 52 de aerisiri.

Exista si un tunel de 9 km pana la orasul subteran Kaymakli, insa aici gurile de ventilatie s-au surpat, astfel incat
pasajul nu este accesibil.
Avanos este un sat situat pe raul Kizilirmak, la aproximativ 13 km nord-vest de rgp, faimos pentru ceramica si
covoarele traditionale. La aproximativ 7 km spre est, pe malul sudic al raului, se afla ruinele caravanseraiului selgiuc
Sarihan, ce dateaza din secolul XIII.

In epoca romana Avanos s numea Venessa. In regiune s-au gasit artefacte datand din perioadele bizantina, selgiuc si
otomana. avusin este situat la 13 km nord de rgp si la 4 km de Avanos.. Aici puteti vedea mai multe case amenajate
in pesteri, precum si biserici - Sf Ioan, Gvercin Kilisesi. La scurta distanta de sat sunt mai multe capele simple; cele
mai cunoscute sunt Haili Kilise (Biserica Crucii) din valea Kizilukur Deresi si zml Kilise (Biserica Strugurilor) din
valea Glldere. hisar se afla la 13km vest de rgp si 6 km sud de Greme si este dominat de o stanca fortificata, in
care au fost sapate mai multe locuinte. hisar este o asezare in care timpul pare ca a ramas pe loc, multe dintre casele
vechi avand aceleasi fatade frumos sculptate.

In valea ce inconjoara satul se pot observa toate etapele formarii si erodarii formatiunilor geologice din tuf vulcanic.
Deasupra vaii sunt dune de nisip colorate in galben si roz, iar dedesubt sunt casutele speciale pentru porumbei, unde
se colecteaza ingrasamant natural.

Fortareata hisar este cel mai inalt varf din regiune si atrage vizitatorii cu paoramele oferite. Pentru a ajunge in varf
trebuie sa urcati 120 de trepte
n centrul Anatoliei, la aproximativ 4 ore de capitala turc Ankara, se gsete regiunea Cappadocia. Conform
legendelor, acest nume nseamn ara cailor frumoi, regiunea devenind faimoas n antichitate pentru caii crescui
aici. Astzi, aceast zon din Turcia este celebr n lumea ntreag pentru oraele sale subterane, unice n lume, ce au
putut fi realizate datorit formaiunilor geologice nemaintlnite pe glob.
Pentru a nelege cum au putut fi realizate oraele i satele subterane ce pigmenteaz Cappadocia este nevoie s ne
ntoarcem n trecut. Mai nti, n 1963, cnd arheologul britanic James Mellaart a descoperit o fresc considerat astzi
cea mai veche lucrare peisagistic descoperit vreodat. Datnd de acum 8.000-9.000 de ani, pictura este totodat cea
mai veche oper de art realizat pe o suprafa construit de oameni - un perete tencuit realizat din crmizi de
noroi. Fresca ce msoar 2,5 metri nfieaz un vulcan cu dou conuri n timp ce erupe, fiind amplasat pe o structur
compus aparent din mai multe cutii.mai veche lucrare peisagistic descoperit vreoda
ntr-un alt context, imaginea ar fi de neneles, ns din punctul n care a fost descoperit, ceea ce nfieaz este
foarte clar. Forma dubl a vulcanului se potrivete exact cu silueta Hasan Da, vulcanul ce se nal la 3,253 metri
deasupra solului la 40 de kilometri distan de locul n care a fost descoperit comoara. Cutiile pictate n fresc
reprezint ceea ce muli specialiti consider a fi primul ora din istoria omenirii: atal Hyk, de dou ori mai vechi
dect piramidele i care gzduia 10.000 de oameni, cu mult mai mult dect Ierihonul, un alt ora din acea perioad ce
aspir la titulatura de cea mai veche aezare uman.
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Ruinele atal Hyk au fost descoperite de acelai James Mellaart, iar printre primele lucruri gsite n zona fostei
ceti s-au numrat sute de obiecte de obsidian, care proveneau cel mai probabil de la vulcanul Hasan Da i care
explic de ce muntele era pigmentat cu negru n strvechea pictur.
Pe cealalt latur a vulcanului, istoria a decurs ntr-un mod diferit. Ceea ce astzi este Cappadocia era n vremuri
strvechi un lac imens. De-a lungul a milioane de ani de erupii vulcanice, lacul s-a umplut cu straturi de cenu ce
aveau s msoare sute de metri n nlime. Dup ce vulcanul s-a stins, aceste straturi s-au transformat n tuf vulcanic,
o roc cu proprieti remarcabile.
O ultim erupie a vulcanului, ce a avut loc acum 2 milioane de ani, a produs o manta de lav ce a lsat o crust subire
de bazalt deasupra a 25.000 de kilometri ptrai de tuf vulcanic. Cu timpul, ploaia, vntul, zpada i ciclurile de nghe-
dezghe au dus la crparea stratului de bazalt, ceea ce permis umiditii s ptrund n interior i s dizolve tuful
vulcanic. Pe msur ce s-a erodat, n anumite locuri solul a cedat, lsnd n urm sute de formaiuni spectaculoase,
sculptate de ap i de vnt, rsfirate astzi prin Cappadocia. Acestea sunt supranumite hornurile znelor (fiind
cunoscute sub numele de fairy chimneys n englez i demoiselles coiffes n francez) i sunt foarte populare n rndul
turitilor.

Acelai material din care sunt formate hornurile znelor, tuful vulcanic, st la baza aezrilor umane din Cappadocia.
De altfel, mult lume spune c aceste orae nu au fost construite pe sol, ci n solul regiunii turce. Tuful vulcanic este
suficient de moale nct s permit unui om s sape prin el cu ajutorul unei linguri. Atunci cnd este expus la aer, ns,
materialul se ntrete. Dovezile istorice arat c n jurul anului 700 .e.n oamenii dotai cu instrumente de fier spau
n coastele din Cappadocia pentru a-i cldi locuine sau pentru a forma guri care s atrag porumbeii (deoarece
ginaul acestora a reprezentat un ngrmnt preios nainte ca ngrmintele artificiale s fie inventate). Acelai
tuf care a permis oamenilor s scobeasc stncile pentru a-i construi locuine, lcae de cult i nie pentru porumbei
le-a permis s sape n adncuri pentru a realiza veritabile aezri umane subterane. Nimeni nu tie cte orae
subterane ascunde Cappadocia. Pn acum au fost descoperite opt orae i numeroase sate mai mici, ns cu siguran
mai sunt i altele ce se ascund n subteran.
Cel mai mare ora subteran din Cappadocia, Derinkuyu, a fost descoperit abia n 1965, cnd unul dintre locuitorii din
regiune fcea curat ntr-una din camerele casei sale. Nu era vorba despre o cas obinuit, ci despre una din casele
tradiionale de tip peter ce caracterizeaz aceast regiune i care sunt astzi foarte apreciate de turiti. Atunci cnd
localnicul a dorit s curee un perete, acesta a cedat, dezvluind c n spatele su se ascundea o camer necunoscut.
Mai mult, aceast camer fcea legtura cu alta, iar labirintul continua pe o distan uria.
n cele din urm arheologii i speologii au descoperit c n spatele peretelui se ascundea un veritabil ora subteran, ce
se ntindea cel puin 18 etaje sub pmnt pn la o adncime de aproximativ 85 de metri, i putea gzdui aproximativ
30.000 de oameni. De altfel, specialitii nu au explorat nici astzi n totalitate oraul subteran din Derinkuyu.
Unul din tunelurile descoperite de speologi este suficient de lat pentru a permite trecerea simultan a trei persoane.
Mergnd de-a lungul su, specialitii au descoperit c tunelul face legtura cu un alt ora subteran aflat la 10 kilometri
distan. De altfel, mai multe descoperiri sugereaz c, la un moment-dat, toat Cappadocia era legat de o reea
ascuns de tuneluri subterane. Astzi, muli locuitori din regiune folosesc aceste tunele pe post de pivnie.
Unii specialiti cred c autorii acestor tunele au fost hitiii vremurilor biblice, care s-ar fi ascuns sub pmnt de
prdtorii frigieni. Murat Erturul Glyaz, un arheolog de la Muzeul Nevehir din Cappadocia, nu este de acord cu
aceast ipotez. El confirm c hitiii au trit n aceste tunele, ns se ndoiete c au fost cei care le-au construit.
Glyaz a lucrat la excavaiile de la Aikli Hyk, o mic movil n care s-au gsit topoare de piatr vechi de 10.000 de
ani i instrumente de obsidian capabile s taie tuful vulcanic. Oraele subterane sunt preistorice, explic Glyaz.
Specialistul dezvluie i care este motivul pentru care camerele aflate aproape de suprafa sunt relativ simple fa de
cele aflate mai n subteran, care sunt cioplite cu precizie. Fiecare civilizaie care a descoperit aceste tunele a spat mai
adnc, spune Glyaz, pe msur ce a neles beneficiile unei lumi subterane ascunse. Arheologul a descoperit c
oraele erau luminate cu tore sau cu lmpi cu ulei de in, acestea producnd suficient cldur pentru a menine
temperatura la un nivel plcut. De altfel, este probabil ca aceste orae subterane s fi fost folosite la nceput ca
adposturi de iarn. Cu timpul, ns, pe msur ce hitiii, asirienii, romanii, persanii, bizantinii, turcii selgiucizi i
cretinii au descoperit succesiv aceste peteri, fiecare din aceste civilizaii le-a adncit i le-a extins cu alt scop: cel de
aprare. De altfel, specialitii au concluzionat c turcii selgiucizi i cretinii au extins camerele originale, spate n
preistorie, astfel nct s permit crearea unor grajduri subterane pentru cai. Aceste civilizaii nu au fost singurele
care au considerat oraele subterane drept un bun adpost de rzboi. n 1990, atunci cnd rzboiul din Golful Persic
era n toi, autoritile turce au luat n calcul folosirea oraelor subterane ca adpost mpotriva bombelor n cazul n
care conflictul s-ar fi extins la nivel regional. n oraul subteran din Derinkuyu, etajul situat sub grajdurile subterane
adpostea hrana pentru animale. Mai jos se gsea buctria comun, dotat cu cuptoare de pmnt situate sub un
15
tavan de 3 metri prevzut cu guri de aerisire. Aceste guri purtau fumul prin tunele spate special, astfel nct acesta
ajungea la suprafa la 2 kilometri distan, pentru a pcli adversarii. Spaiul de stocare imens i miile de urne de
ceramic descoperite n oraul subteran sugereaz c mii de persoane stteau aici luni ntregi fr a vedea soarele.
Oraul era dotat cu puuri verticale de comunicare, astfel c orice persoan putea comunica cu altcineva aflat la un alt
etaj. Puurile subterane le ofereau oamenilor apa de but, iar scurgerile subterane i protejau de inundaii. Specialitii
au descoperit inclusiv zone n care apa era folosit pentru a face vin i bere, pentru vin fiind folosite cuve de tuf
vulcanic, iar pentru bere roi de mcinat din bazalt. Unii specialiti speculeaz c aceste buturi alcoolice ar fi fost
necesare pentru a calma claustrofobia provocat de trecerile de nivel nguste. Scrile ce fac legtura ntre etaje erau
nguste, joase i de multe ori curbate, astfel c invadatorii ar fi fost nevoii s ptrund n ir indian, ncet i aplecat,
devenind astfel o int sigur. Aceasta nu era singura msur de siguran: arheologii au descoperit pietre imense, de
o jumtate de ton, care erau folosite pentru a bloca tunelurile din ambele pri.iInvadatorii capturai ntr-o astfel de
camer ar fi descoperit n scurt timp c acele guri pe care le zreau n tavan nu aveau ca scop aerisirea, ci permiteau
locuitorilor din subteran s-i supun pe oaspeii nedorii unei bi cu ulei fierbinte. Cu trei etaje mai jos se gsea o
camer mare, dotat cu bnci i o catedr de piatr: coala unde erau educai copiii din subteran. La o mai mare
adncime se gseau mai multe niveluri de locuine ce erau ntretiate de numeroase strzi subterane. Cercettorii au
descoperit c adulii cu copii aveau camere duble, iar n anumite pri ale complexului de locuine s gseau chiar i
camere de joac, n care copiii aveau la dispoziie numeroase tuneluri ntunecoase ce reveneau n acelai loc. La o
adncime de opt etaje se afl spaiul ce reflect faptul c acest ora subteran a fost locuit de cretini: dou ncperi de
mari dimensiuni i cu tavan nalt ce se ntreptrund pentru a forma o cruce. Din cauza umiditii constante, frescele de
pe pereii acestei ncperi nu s-au pstrat. Studiile efectuate de arheologi au dus la concluzia c n aceast camer se
rugau cretinii din secolul al VII-lea ce emigraser din Antioh i Palestina i care foloseau oraul subteran din
Derinkuyu pentru a se feri de invadatorii arabi. Sub biserica improvizat se gsete o camer de mici dimensiuni ce
are forma unui cub. Arheologii au concluzionat c aceasta servea drept mormnt temporar, aici fiind inui morii pn
cnd pericolul trecea, iar locuitorii oraului subteran puteau reveni la suprafa pentru a-i ngropa prietenii pierdui.
Astzi, turitii pot vedea cu ochii lor oraul subteran ce a permis, de-a lungul veacurilor, mai multor popoare s
supravieuiasc. ncepnd cu 1969, autoritile turce permit publicului s exploreze aproximativ 10% din oraul
subteran din Derinkuyu. Dac nu putei ajunge la faa locului, putei explora oraul subteran i n varianta online.
Specialitii afirm c Derinkuyu va continua s dinuiasc la mult timp dup ce oamenii vor fi disprut. Aadar, oraul
subteran ce a fost construit cndva pentru a apra oamenii va continua s ne protejeze - de uitare, oferind o ultim
dovad c am fost, cndva, pe Terra.
Good wine has been produced in Turkey for millennia, and still is. Several of Anatolia's climatic regions, inluding the
Marmara and Aegean, the East around Elaz, and the Southeast near Diyarbakr, some with volcanic soil (such as
Cappadocia), are suitable for producing wine grapes. In the past, the grapes have mostly been local traditional
varieties such as kzgz (Ox-eye) from Elaz and Boazkere from Diyarbakr, but Cabernet Sauvignon,
Sauvignon blanc, Merlot, Carignan, and Alicante are now being used for premium wines as well. The standards
were set for Turkish wines in the mid-1900s by the Kavakldere and Doluca (DOHL-oo-jah) vineyards. Simple table
wines such as Kavak and the better ankaya (white), Dikmen and the better Yakut (red), Ll (ros/blush) and Villa
Doluca (white and red) are drinkable and not the most expensive. In Cappadocia, the Kocaba (KOH-jah-bah) and
Turasan (TOO-rah-sahn) labels are two to try. I prefer the Kocaba, especially their kzgz and Cabernet
Sauvignon reds. Tatlsert, by the way, is a fortified red similar to port. In the 1990s, after changes in the laws
governing alcoholic beverages, small local vintners began to make varietal wines of good quality. The best wines are
often from the well-run vineyards of wealthy industrial and commercial families. Discerning (and wealthy) Turkish
wine-drinkers are only a small market, and the conservative government has levied high taxes on alcoholic
beverages, so sipping wine with dinner is surprisingly expensive. Though table wines such as the red Kavaklidere
Dikmen and basic Doluca labels sell for TL15 to TL20 in shops, and mid-priced Villa Doluca and Kavakldere's
ankaya white for TL18 to TL22, Kavaklidere's red Yakut and other upscale wines such as Kavaklidere's Egeo wines,
and Angora, Ancyra and Vinart appellation/vintage years can cost TL30 or more in a shop, and 2-1/2 to 3 times as
much in a restaurant. Prices for imported wines can be even higher. The inexpensive wine you're used to drinking at
home may be a premium-priced wine in Turkey. High taxes also play their part in the high price of wine. The tax just
about doubles the cost of a bottle of inexpensive table wine. In part because of the high taxes, I'm told there is a large
illegal, untaxed and uncontrolled wine industry that competes unfairly with the legitimate vintners and may put
the health of the wine-drinking public in danger. Although the governing center-right AKP party denies that it acts
against those who drink alcoholic beverages, the cost of enjoying a glass of wineor indeed any alcoholic beverage
16
has risen dramatically during their tenure in office.
Art of the Hittite Empire
Hittite art drew upon far earlier sources developed in Sumer and Babylon (see Sumerian and Babylonian art) and
upon local Anatolian culture of the 3d millennium B.C., characterized by elaborate gold and bronze ornamental work
found at Alacahyk and earlier Neolithic remains found at atalhyk dating from the 7th millennium B.C. The
Hittites quickly assimilated many aspects of the cultures they overran. They adopted a pantheon of Mesopotamian and
N Syrian gods and represented them in their artthe males with high pointed hats, short-skirted robes, and boots
with long, curling toes, and the females with long, pleated robes and square hats. The Hittites were accomplished
carvers and metalworkers. Among the most impressive late representatives of Hittite deities is a series of ornaments
from Carchemish made to adorn a royal golden robe; they are carved in steatite and lapis lazuli and mounted in gold
cloisons, each 5/8 in. (14.5 cm) high (7th cent. B.C.; British Mus.). The Hittites adapted the Babylonian cuneiform to
their language and also employed an elaborate hieroglyphic script for the engraving of monuments. Although animal
figures are to be found in abundance in the artistic remains of the Hittites, their chief concern was human activity,
particularly religious ritual. At the Great Sanctuary of Yazilikaya near Boazky is a magnificent series of mythological
scenes in carved rock depicting lions and sphinxes attending gods and goddesses. At Ivriz another rock relief
represents King Warbalawa praying before the god Tarhan, a capped and booted figure hung about with grapes and
holding grain to symbolize fertility (8th cent. B.C.). There remain fewer representations of royal domestic life,
including a hunting scene from Alacahyk (200 B.C., Archaelogical Mus., Ankara), a family procession with King
Araras with his children and their nurse and pets from Carchemish (750 B.C.), and a few polychrome vase paintings
from Bitik, near Ankara, one of which is thought to depict a marriage. Other vases were made in animal shapes (e.g.,
duck vase, c.1700 B.C., from Beycesultan, Archaeological Mus., Ankara) and in the form of domestic items (e.g., boot
vase, 19th cent. B.C., from Kltepe, Archaeological Mus., Ankara). A minor art of considerable development was the
signet seal, generally containing figures and a cuneiform inscription, which the Hittites used instead of the cylinder
seal popular with neighboring cultures. The Hittites, who spoke an Indo-European language (a family of languages
that includes English), dominated much of Anatolia and neighboring regions between about 1650 and 1200 B.C. It has
been suggested that groups speaking languages related to Hittite first entered Anatolia at the end of the third
millennium B.C., but the Hittites first rose to prominence around 1750 B.C., when King Pithana and his son Anitta
captured the important city of Kanesh as well as a number of other city-states, including that of Hattusha (modern
Bogazky). The reasons for the rapid disappearance of the Hittites, who had dominated Anatolia for centuries, remain
unexplained. Sometime around 1650 B.C., under Hattushili I, the city of Hattusha was established as the Hittite capital.
Situated on a plateau, Hattusha was heavily fortified over time with elaborate defensive walls and gateways. From this
secure base, Hattushili led his armies south onto the plains of Syria. His son, Murshili I, continued these advances by
raiding the important city of Halab (Aleppo) and plundering Babylon far to the south in Mesopotamia. On his return to
Anatolia, however, the king was assassinated and there followed a succession of weak rulers and a long period of
inactivity. Around 1420 B.C., a new line of more energetic kings came to power in Hattusha. Nonetheless, the Hittites
seem to have suffered considerable problems in the early fourteenth century B.C.: the so-called Gashga people, who
lived in the Pontic Alps to the north of Hittite territory, launched raids and may even have destroyed Hattusha; the
dominant power of Egypt under Amenhotep III (r. 13901352 B.C.) attempted to undermine the Hittites by
establishing diplomatic relations with the powerful state of Arzawa in western Anatolia; and raids against Cyprus
(claimed by the Hittites as their territory) were undertaken by Ahhiyawa (perhaps Achaean Greeks)._
The Hittite invaders of central Anatolia (the area that is present-day W Turkey) came from the east c.2000 B.C. and by
1400 B.C. were masters of all of Asia Minor. Their most important period of artistic activity lasted from 1450 to 1200
B.C. The art of the Hittite Empire merged stylistically with Syrian art gradually, beginning in the 11th cent. B.C. The
modern interest in Hittite culture was aroused in the mid-19th cent. by the Rev. Archibald Henry Sayre of Oxford,
England. The principal architectural remnant of the Hittite civilization is at Boazky, where temple structures and
the city walls may be seen. The Hittites developed the bit-hilani, a porticoed entrance hall built with a stairway
approach flanked by pillars. Another characteristic form was the double gateway with corbeled arch, decorated with
friezes and protected on either side by a threatening beast figure. Among the best-known of these is the lion gate at
Hattua, the ancient Hittite capital (c.1600 B.C.). These gate figures were later to be copied and used in the churches
of Western Europe. In building interiors wall painting was evidently practiced with considerable sophistication, but
only a few fragments of this work remain, principally at Boazky and Atchana in N Syria.