Magazine Pork Recipes PDF

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edible
Michiana
Te story on
local food
early spring 2014 issue 12

Meat!
68 edible Michiana early spring 2014
201 North Michigan St
Plymouth IN 46563
574-936-1882 800-626-5353
VisitMarshallCounty.org
Indulge in Marshall Countys
delicious representation of
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Experience seven of the delicious destinations that made the
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Opies Deli
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The Original Root Beer Stand
Culver
Corndance Caf
Culver
Weckmller Fine Chocolates
Pierceton
Cerulean Restaurant
Winona Lake
Channel Marker
Syracuse
Noa Noa Woodgrill and Sushi Bar
Warsaw
111 Capital Dr., Warsaw, IN 46582
574-269-6090 800-800-6090
livewellinthemoment.com
Live well in the moment
Indulge your senses in Indianas
Kosciusko County. With over
100 lakes and thriving arts
communities we offer food for
both the soul and the palette.
edibleMichiana.com 1
Our mission at Green Spirit Farms has been to provide local
commun|nes w|th h|gh-qua||ty, fresh, pesnc|de-free,
non-GMC, susta|nab|y-grown produce at a fa|r pr|ce.
1h|s spr|ng, our m|ss|on expands to add ora| and
botan|ca| spec|a|nes to our farm.
l ocal
sustai nabl e
& now
pl antabl e
www.GreenSpiritFarms.com
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4 FROM MY TABLE TO YOURS
8 SPILLING THE BEANS
Blue-Ribbon Diner
Local Duck Hits Jackpot in Vegas
12 IN SEASON
Maple Syrup
16 SWEET PREVIEW OF SPRING
20 ARTISANS
Bacon Jam? Yes, Please!
22 WHOS YOUR BUTCHER?
28 HAMS WITH A HISTORY
32 WHY LOCAL MEAT?
34 BEFORE YOU EAT, KNOW YOUR MEAT
37 MICHIANA FARMERS MARKETS
38 HOLY COWS?
42 MARTINS PHOTO ESSAY
46 THIS LITTLE PIGGY
Pork with a Purpose
50 CHEWING THE FAT
Edible Michiana Talks Bacon with an Expert
51 HOMEMADE BACON
52 OLD SCHOOL, AFTER SCHOOL,
ALLS COOL AT PITTS BBQ
55 EDIBLE REVIEW
Te Meaty Side of Life
56 BRISKET: TWO WAYS
58 FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Te Meat We Eat
62 ADVERTISER MAP
64 THE LAST BITE
Te Sow
RECIPES
13 Raised Maple Donuts
13 Whiskey Custard
15 Duck Fat Roasted Potatoes
15 Maple and Brown Sugar Bacon
15 Spiced Maple Roasted Carrots
15 Maple VinaigretteDressed Spinach Salad
15 Maple Milk with Bourbon
51 Homemade Bacon
57 Sweet and Sour Brisket
OINK!
edible
Michiana
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edible
michiana
co-publishers
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editor
Maya Parson
recipe editor and food stylist
Tara Swartzendruber-Landis
design
Cheryl Angelina Koehler
copy editors
Doug Adrianson Carrington Morris
interns
Liz Core Kate Stoltzfus
contributors
Jane Ammeson Bob Benenson Tom Cariano
Elise Hofer Derstine Jenny Drilon Jenny Frech
Lisa Harris Richard Hellyer Brad Hindsley
Ann Hostetler William Jackson David Johnson
Andrew Jones Ivan LaBianca D. Lucas Landis
David Martinez Sarah McKibben Pat Mullins
Taylor Nef David Palmer Maya Parson
Kathleen Petitjean Peter Ringenberg
Hannah Rowe Leah Schroeder Jen Shenk
Deepak Singh Ashley Swartzendruber
Tara Swartzendruber-Landis Zach Tate
contact us
Edible Michiana
P.O. Box 208
Goshen, IN 46527-0208
info@ediblemichiana.com
advertising
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subscriptions
Edible Michiana is published quarterly (March, June, September and
December) by Edible Michiana L.L.C. Distribution is throughout
Northern Indiana and Southwest Lower Michigan, and nationally by
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2014. All Rights Reserved.
from my table to yours
I
barely knew a butt roast from a brisket before I lived in the Midwest.
(OK, I knew they were both delicious. Does that count?)
Growing up, my family didnt eat a lot of meat. Like many adoles-
cents, I later gave up meat entirely. I started eating it againafter eight years
of vegetarianism (and, briefy, veganism)when I was living in Nicaragua. I
still remember the spare ribs that sounded the death knell for my vegetarian-
ism. My friend had raised the pig in the dirt yard of his simple house. It was
not something I could refuse. And, yes, they were delicious.
It was in Nicaragua that I experienced my frst pig slaughter (oddly, I was
salsa dancing at the time, but thats another story). It was also there that I
ate an old chicken that I had carried, live and squawking, in my arms across
town on the city bus. (Te favor of that sopa, rich and oily and brightened
with plantains and fresh mint, is something Ive tried to re-createunsuc-
cessfullyever since.)
Back in the U.S., I began to eat meat more often, but I rarely cooked it
myself. I didnt really know how. And I didnt feel inspired to learn because
just about the only meat in the grocery was factory farmed. I lived in North
Carolina at the time, and there is nothing like the smell of hog waste from a
Smithfeld plant to make you reconsider your pork belly!
Fast forward to Northwest Indiana. Not long after we settled in South
Bend, friends invited us to visit Blue Heron Farm (page 38, this issue).
Youve heard people say that bacon is the gateway meat? For me, Blue Heron
was the gateway farm. One visit and I was hooked on the pastures and
the chicken tractor and the pigs rooting for acorns in the woods. Id never
cooked a pork chop in my life, but I signed on to share a half a hog.
Te experience was life changingand Im not just talking about the
homemade pork tamales. Buying sustainably raised local meat transformed
the way I cooked and ate; more than that, it introduced me to new places
and people in our community. I met other innovative farmers specializing
in pastured meats, like Toni and John Rowe of Grass is Greener Farm (page
38), and began to explore some of Michianas other hidden treasuresfam-
ily-run butcher shops, like Martins Custom Butchering (pages 24 and 42)
and DC Meats (page 27), that process meat the old-fashioned way: by hand
and with respect for the animals and the people who eat them.
In this issue of Edible Michiana, youll meet some of those people and
others, like chef Tom Cariano (pages 8 and 32), who raises and butchers his
own pigs. And farmers Nate and Lou Ann Robinson (page 46), who were at
the forefront of the pasture-raised pork movement in Michiana.
Ive learned that the Midwest may be the land of meat and potatoes, but
not like people think. We do love our meat here in Michiana, but, increas-
ingly, farmers, chefs and consumers like myself also care deeply about where
our meat comes from and how its raised.
Read their stories and then taste the diference for yourself!
Maya Parson
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
Minerals for gardens, lawns & pastures
High Brix nutrient dense produce
Weed free raised beds
404 Olive St. Goshen, IN | 574.536.7739
Thursday - Sunday 11am - 3pm
Specializing in fresh hand made burgers,
old world hot dog and sausage and micro-crafted sodas.
Dine In/Carryout or Carhop service
171 Highway 212 | Michigan City, IN | www.sodadog.com | 219.872.7632
2014 season opens May 22
TasteItaly
ineveryaisle
Your go-to destination for:
olive oils , balsamic vinegars,
pastas, cheeses, wines, and
hard-to-nd, ne ingredients.

A Family Tradition Since 1950
574.287.1871 | 1145 Mishawaka Ave., South Bend
(across from the Farmers Market)
Mon. - Fri. 8 am - 6:30 pm | Sat. 7 am - 5:30 pm
52l !nko IouIovnrd, Sf. Josoh, MI
2699833882
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ThoughffuIIy ronrod monIs mndo wIfh IocnIIy grown IngrodIonfs.
SorvIng bronkfnsf, Iunch, dInnor, nnd Sundny brunch.
InIng nI frosco ovorIookIng !nko MIchIgnn!
M
aple City Market in Goshen, Indiana, has a sign on the meat
case that sums up our belief about meat. Te sign says: Quality,
Not QuantityIf you cut down on the meat you eat, youll be able
to aford higher quality, organic, locally produced meat. It will have a lower
carbon footprint, and should taste much better! Tis spring issue isnt about
eating more meat; it is about carefully choosing the meat you eat.
And another important conscious choice is deciding where you make
your purchases. Edible Michiana has been greatly supported by the
local butchers and meat producers of Michiana as well as all the other
advertisers you see in this and other issues. Tese businesses not only
provide quality products and services, but also help their communities
as part of strong small-business networks. Tese networks contribute
to healthy communities the way good food contributes to our physical
health. For all that, we say thank you!
Victoria Brenneman Paula Bartholome
P.S. Watch our website, Food Notes (our newsletter) and Facebook page
for information about events being planned around future issues of Edible
Michiana. We look forward to seeing you at one!
letter from the publishers
(.
/......
/......
(.
.
At Noa Noa Wood Grill
For Bookings Contact Tish Woods At 574-551-3327
310 Eastlake Drive Warsaw, IN noanoawoodgrill.com
Ortho Seminars
Business Meetings
Personal Menu Options
Banquets / Seating For 100
Grass fed beef (ground beef in summer, halves and
quarters in fall), pastured turkey and chicken
LaGrange, IN hpastures.com heritagepastures@yahoo.com
Quality, Not
QuantityIf
you cut down
on the meat you
eat, youll be able
to aford higher
quality, organic,
locally produced
meat. It will have
a lower carbon
footprint, and
should taste much
better!
A R T I F A C T S A N T I Q U E S
GOSHEN
2 0 8 S O U T H MA I N S T R E E T
G O S H E N , I N 4 6 5 2 6
WWW. G R A B E R F O U N D . C O M
P H O N E : 5 7 4 . 5 3 4 . 4 3 9 4
I N T E R N A T I O N A L A R T
ETHICAL
TRADE
W
ith local hams curing in the fridge at the back and root
vegetables in the cold case up front, its clear that State
Fare and Provisions is a diferent sort of diner. In fact, the
new restaurant is chef Tom Carianos dream: a neighborhood place,
serving seasonal local food, at afordable prices.
After apprenticing at top-fight restaurants where he was cooking
food my friends couldnt aford to eat, Cariano wanted to come back
home. I wanted a place where my farming buddies could come in
and not worry about taking of their boots, a place that would of-
fer honest food drawing on the areas incredible bounty, beauty and
diversity.
After his former workplace, So Cafe in Sawyer, Michigan, closed,
Cariano scouted locations to pursue this dream and ended up... next
door. (Eds note: So Cafe is temporarily open as a pop-up restaurant
through March.) Te tranquil space, opened last November and
currently serving breakfast and lunch only, occupies a single, high-
ceilinged, airy room with a honey-colored wall of unfnished wood
sheltering patrons from the street. Glass walls on either side let in
angled daylight on 13 simple tables served by a friendly, plaid-shirted
waitress and the chef himself.
Te fare is classic dinerexpert yet inexpensive, with zero preten-
sion. We want to take quality ingredients and not mess them up,
says Cariano. Tose ingredients are as local, biodiverse, organic and
seasonal as they can be: We are 100% dedicated to getting ingre-
dients from local farmers, in a region that produces more edibles
by the pound, during the growing season, than anywhere else in the
country. (California, with a longer growing season, produces more
per year.)
In addition to drawing on his parents farm, Carianos meat-centric
menu features ethically raised animals from farmers he knows and
trusts, bought whole and butchered, cured and smoked in-house.
Such is their respect for those who raise what goes into their food
that the frst item on the breakfast menu is a hearty farmers breakfast
of eggs, bacon, home fries, biscuits and gravy. Or you can have that
local ham in an omelet, or in your own combination of eggs and sides.
Te most-ordered morning dish seems to be the buttermilk wafe,
only served as long as the batter (made, properly, the night before)
lasts.
Lunch oferings are cheesy in the best sense: cheeseburgers made
from local beef topped with cheddar, Texas-style chili, corn dogs with
Greenbush Beer cheese, and a scrumptious grilled cheese with Michi-
gan cheese, caramelized onions and aioli, made even better with a side
of roasted root vegetables so tasty that a nearby diner exclaimed that
he had to tell his mom. Te Great Lakes fsh sandwich with remou-
lade sauce, like the meatball sub with Parmesan and Fontina, sold out
several days in a row, while hand-cut French fries become a meal of
their own with toppings.
Cariano has big plans for 2014: Preserving for next year will start
with the frst new crops in early summer, so that freshly pickled, fer-
mented and canned foods expand the diners tastes year-round. Hes
developing new sausage and salami recipes by poring over cookbooks,
observing master chefs in Chicago and exploring the traditions of the
area. Inspired by the Slow Food and local food movements, hes look-
ing to incorporate more wild foods into the menu as well.
Lets hope that his small social experiment will become a local
institution.
State Fare and Provisions
12856 Red Arrow Hwy.
Sawyer, MI
269.409.3595
By Sarah McKibben
Photography by Richard Hellyer
When she is not experimenting in the kitchen and hosting potlucks, Sarah
McKibben teaches Irish language and literature to the Fighting Irish.
spilling the beans
BLUE-RIBBON DINER
Handcrafed Meats a Cut Above at State Fare and Provisions
Crafting sausage from locally raised pork at State Fare and Provisions. Italian Fest Sausage Sandwich with a side of housemade Cheddar
Cheese Pork Rinds.
Local Raised. Antibiotic Free. No Added Growth Hormones.
New- CertiIed Non GMO BeeI
100% Grass-Ied BeeI
Non GMO Fork
Organic Free Range Chickens
Custom Cuts & Frocessing
Lamb, Veal, BuIIalo, Elk, Goat, Rabbit & Fish
Local Farm Fresh Eggs, Raw Honey, Organic Milk & Butter
New Organic Non GMO Cheeses, Organic Foods & Sundries
Join us Ior our Friday Night BBO (4-7pm)
1711 Lincolnway West, Osceola, lN 574-74-BEEF
THE Story on Great Local Food in Northwest Lower Michigan
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today
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spilling the beans
LOCAL DUCK HITS JACKPOT IN VEGAS
W
hen Jennifer Daskevich from Southern California won
the World Sandwich Championship in Las Vegas this past
November, it might have been the caramelized onions or
the fresh herb salad that made her sandwich stand out. It might have
been the toasted brioche bun or the pickled cherries.
Or perhaps it was all fourin combination with one important in-
gredient: duck from Michianas Maple Leaf Farms in Milford, Indiana.
Maple Leaf Farms duck was also in Daskevichs fondue-style bistro
grilled cheese with duck confta sandwich that helped put her in
the fnals with the highest overall score.
How did Michiana duck end up in Daskevichs prize-winning
sandwich?
It turns out that Maple Leaf Farms was a featured ingredient in the
World Food Championships. Contest participants had the opportu-
nity to choose Maple Leaf Farms duck from among an assortment of
pantry items in both the Bacon World and World Recipe Champion-
ships top 10 round.
All 10 fnalists in the Bacon World competition chose to use the
companys duck bacon, according to Phil Herbruck, communication
specialist at Maple Leaf Farms.
Herbruck believes their meat is set apart by the companys farm-
ing practicesmany of their birds are raised by Amish families in the
areaand the Pekin duck breed they raise.
Maple Leaf Farms duck has a much milder favor than certain
other varieties, which makes it very adaptable to a host of diferent
cuisines, says Herbruck. Jennifers fnal sandwich recipe featured
our duck conft and duck chicharrones [think small pork rinds, minus
the pork]great for adding a favorful crunch to a dish.
Maple Leaf Farms was started by Donald Wentzel in 1958; in the
companys frst year, they produced 280,000 birds. Today, under the
direction of family members John and Scott Tucker, the company
raises millions of ducks primarily through small, family farms.
Prize-winner Daskevich actually frst discovered the companys
duck in her grocery store.
I thought it was kind of a challenge, says Daskevich, who lives in
Los Angeles. I absolutely fell in love with their product and cooking
with it at home. If I have the opportunity, I will defnitely use it in
future competitions.
By Kate Stoltzfus
Photography courtesy of the World Food Championships
Kate Stoltzfus is a senior at Goshen College studying English/writing and
journalism. Her work has appeared in publications such as Te Elkhart
Truth, Te Mennonite and Te News Sun. Stoltzfus is an intern with
Edible Michiana.
Jennifer Daskevichs grand prizewinning sandwich featured Maple Leaf Farms duck, caramelized onions and
pickled cherries on a brioche bunplus a sprinkle of duck chicharrones for extra crunch.
T- /v|
|v |vgg -g
1100 N. Chicago Ave.,
Goshen, IN 46528
574.534.1162
www.GoertzenPottery.com
in season
Maple
Syrup
Brunch
for Six
BY TARA SWARTZENDRUBER-LANDIS
PHOTOGRAPHY BY D. LUCAS LANDIS
E
ach spring as the days warm up and the nights are still
below freezing, maple syrup producers work almost day
and night to tap the trees and then boil down the highly
perishable sap. It takes about 32 to 40 gallons of sap to make
one gallon of maple syrup. (For more about this process, see
page 16.)
Anyone who loves maple syrup will tell you that one taste
of the real stuf will wean you of maple favored syrups for-
ever. And once you know how long it takes to prepare, the cost
makes sense as well.
Where to buy it:
Local farmers markets, co-ops, orchards and farm stands will
sell maple syrup produced in Michigan and Indiana.
How to store it:
Unopened containers can be stored on the shelf for up to one
year. Opened containers should be stored in the refrigerator.
Pairs well with:
Almonds, anise, apples, apricots, bacon, blueberries, butter,
caramel, cardamom, carrots, chestnuts, chocolate, cinnamon,
cream, dates, duck, French toast, ginger, ham, lemons, limes,
mascarpone, nectarines, nutmeg, nuts, oats, onions, pancakes,
peaches, pears, pecans, persimmons, plums, pork, pumpkin,
raspberries, rhubarb, rum, strawberries, sweet potatoes, turkey,
thyme, vanilla, waf es, walnuts, whiskey and yogurt.
Raised Maple Donuts
Tese decadent brunch treats feature bacon and a whiskey custard. If you prefer, leave out the meat and serve
these up for dessert any time of the day.
Whiskey Custard
Recipe courtesy of Hello, Donuts!
Use this custard to fll donuts or layer cakes, or simply eat it by the spoonful after it comes of of the stovetop.
(I have tried all three and highly recommend each option.)
Yield: Makes enough to fll 50 donut holes
1 cup heavy cream
teaspoon good-
quality whiskey (like
Journeyman Distillerys
Featherbone Bourbon
Whiskey)
1 egg
cup sugar
1 tablespoon cornstarch
Pinch of salt
tablespoon butter
teaspoon vanilla extract
The Brunch
Enjoy these dishes together as a
brunch or individually. All reci-
pes make 6 servings.
In order to have a more
leisurely morning, start your
brunch preparation the night
before.
Things you can do
the day before:
Mix up the donut dough,
wrap tightly in plastic wrap
and place in the refrigerator
overnight. First thing in the
morning, allow dough to
come to room temperature,
roll and continue with
recipe as written.
Make the whiskey custard
and refrigerate.
Things to do
first thing in the
morning:
Fry the donuts, cool and fll
them.
Boil the potatoes.
Make the maple vinaigrette.
Wash the spinach and spin
dry.
An hour before
serving:
Roast the bacon.
Roast the potatoes and
carrots.
Right before serving:
Fry the eggs. Keep them
warm on plates in oven.
Toss the spinach with the
vinaigrette and plate with
the carrots and potatoes on
the eggs.
Tara Swartzendruber-Landis is
Edible Michianas recipe editor
and food stylist. After a decade
living on the East Coast, she is
happy to be gardening, cooking
and eating in the Michiana area
again.
Yield: 50 donut holessend extras home in goody bags with your guests!
cup warm milk
(between 110 and
115)
Scant 1 tablespoon yeast
2 ounces butter (4
tablespoons or
stick), melted
cup maple syrup
cup sugar
teaspoon salt
teaspoon baking soda
Pinch of nutmeg
1 egg, beaten
2 ounces bacon (about
1 slices), cooked
and fnely chopped,
optional
3340 ounces oil for
frying
Powdered sugar
34 cups four
Add the milk to the yeast and allow to proof until spongy. In a large mix-
ing bowl, place the butter, maple syrup, sugar, salt, baking soda, nutmeg
and bacon. Beat with an electric mixer or by hand with a whisk. Add the
four 1 cup at a time until you have a nice soft dough. Lay out on a foured
work surface and knead the dough for 45 minutes, until it is stretchy and
soft and will bounce back if your fnger is pressed into it. Place in a greased
bowl, cover with a damp cloth and allow to rise until double (about 12
hours). Roll the dough out on a foured work surface until it is about
inch. Cut with a small cookie cutter or biscuit cutter (about 2 inches
across). Lay these on a piece of wax paper, cover lightly with another piece
of wax paper and allow them to rest for 3540 minutes. In a pan on the
stove or a deep fat fryer, place the oil and bring to 300.
Meanwhile, place powdered sugar in a brown paper bag and set aside.
Cook each donut about 2 minutes on a side. Remove from the oil and
place on a baking rack to drain for about 1 minute. Ten place the donuts
in the bag, close the top and shake until they are covered with the sugar.
Remove from the bag and return to the cooling rack.
After the donuts have cooled completely, use a chopstick to poke a hole
in each donut. Use a metal tip and pastry bag to fll each donut with the
whiskey custard. (If you made the custard ahead, allow it to come to room
temperature before flling the donuts.)
Heat the cream and whiskey in a medium-size saucepan until it is nearly
boiling. In a medium-size bowl, whisk together eggs, sugar, cornstarch and
salt. Add a small amount of the warm cream into the egg mixture and whisk
quickly to incorporate all of the ingredients. Tis will temper, or warm, the
eggs so that they dont cook too quickly and scramble. Once tempered,
pour the egg mixture into the rest of the cream, whisking constantly as you
pour them together. Continue whisking for about 2 minutes. Te mixture
will thicken slightly. Remove from the heat and stir in butter and vanilla.
Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature. If you have a few lumps in
your custard, strain custard through a fne-mesh sieve. Cover with plastic
wrap and refrigerate for 23 hours. To avoid having a custard skin cover
over the top, be sure to press the plastic wrap right onto the warm custard
before refrigerating.
14 edible Michiana early spring 2014 14 edible Michiana early spring 2014
Duck Fat Roasted Potatoes
22 pounds potatoes, washed and cubed
2 tablespoons duck fat, room temperature
2 teaspoons salt
Preheat oven to 425. Place the potatoes in a
large saucepan of water. Bring to a boil and
cook for about 1012 minutes, until they
are fork tender but still have a bit of a bite
to them. Drain the potatoes and place them
on a baking sheet covered with parchment
paper. Toss them with the duck fat and the
salt. Place them in the oven and roast them
for 3545 minutes until they are crispy.
Maple and Brown Sugar
Roasted Bacon
cup maple syrup
cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
teaspoon cayenne pepper, optional
teaspoon black pepper, ground
1 pound bacon (see page 51 for our recipe
for homemade bacon)
Preheat oven to 350. In a small saucepan
combine the maple syrup, brown sugar,
mustard, cayenne pepper and black pep-
per. Stir over medium heat until the sugar is
melted and all ingredients are blended. Lay
the bacon on an aluminum-covered baking
sheet. Brush the maple syrup mixture on
the bacon. Bake in the oven for 2530 min-
utes, until the bacon is begins to turn crispy.
Serve warm.

Spiced Maple Roasted Carrots
6 medium-size carrots (about 1 pound),
peeled and sliced lengthwise into 3- to
4-inch sticks
teaspoon cumin seeds
teaspoon coriander, ground
teaspoon cinnamon, ground
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons maple syrup
2 teaspoons lemon juice
Preheat oven to 425. Place the carrots,
cumin seeds, coriander, cinnamon, salt,
olive oil and maple syrup on a large baking
sheet covered with parchment paper. Toss
all ingredients together until the carrots are
evenly coated. Place the pan in the oven
and bake for 2530 minutes, stirring once
or twice, until the carrots are tender and
caramelized. Remove from the oven and
toss with the lemon juice and cool. Serve
with the spinach salad.
Maple VinaigretteDressed
Spinach Salad
A hearty brunch when served over fried eggs
with Duck Fat Roasted Potatoes, Spiced
Maple Roasted Carrots and Maple and
Brown Sugar Roasted Bacon
Maple Vinaigrette
4 tablespoons olive oil
4 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
teaspoon salt
Place ingredients in a
small bowl. Whisk
together.
Spinach Salad
2 bunches fresh spinach
(about 6 cups)
6 farm eggs
3 tablespoons butter
Salt for sprinkling on
eggs
Melt tablespoon but-
ter in a small pan over
medium-low heat. Break
1 egg in a small dish and
carefully ease into the
pan so as not to break
the yoke. Sprinkle with
a small pinch of salt and
cover pan with lid. When
egg white has frmed up
but yolk is still runny,
fip egg gently and turn
of heat. Place each egg
on a heated plate to
keep warm. Dress spin-
ach with vinaigrette and
place a small amount on each egg. Add a
small amount of Duck Fat Roasted Pota-
toes, Spiced Maple Roasted Carrots and a
slice of Maple and Brown Sugar Roasted
Bacon over eggs.
Maple Vinagrette is adapted from a
recipe by Minda Kaufman
Maple Milk with Bourbon
A brunch or after-dinner treat on cool spring
days when it feels like winter has returned.
Serves 6
48 ounces whole milk
3 tablespoons butter
612 ounces bourbon, optional
Ground nutmeg or cinnamon
Warm the milk in a small saucepan on the
stovetop. When steam begins to rise from
the milk, add the maple syrup and butter.
Whisk together. Pour 12 ounces of bour-
bon in each mug. Pour in the hot milk mix-
ture. Garnish with nutmeg or cinnamon.
SWEET
PREVIEW
OF
SPRING
Maple Flow
Signals Warmer
Days to Come
STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY
BY JEN SHENK
W
hen the winds howl, and the
snow refuses to melt, and
were all desperate for warmer
weather, its hard to believe that spring will
ever arrive. However, nature knows better.
Deep within the maple trees, going back
since the beginning of time, the sap is run-
ning. Drip by delicious drip, its a sign that
spring is on its way.
Our family took a day trip to Yoders
Sugar Bush in Huntertown, near Fort
Wayne, Indiana. Its a maple syrupmaking
operation thats been in the family for fve
generations. Te family farm spans about
400 acres, with over 200 trees tapped for
syrup. As we trudged back a long and mud-
dy lane, I felt as if we were going back in
time. We were there to see how syrup gets
made, from start to mouthwatering fnish,
and they put us right to work.
Te trees stretched to the sky, with
buckets hanging to catch the sap. Erika
As we trudged back a long and
muddy lane, I felt as if we were
going back in time. We were there
to see how syrup gets made, from
start to mouthwatering fnish, and
they put us right to work.
(Yoder) Meyer and her husband, Tom, were our guides for the day. Go
ahead and taste the sap straight from the tree if you want, Erika encour-
aged, just make sure you dont contaminate the spout by touching it. Te
sap was very cold, tasting like slightly sweetened water.
Larry Yoder, Erikas dad, showed us how he taps the trees (drills) to get
the sap in the frst place. Each year the tree needs to be drilled in a difer-
ent spot, so it can heal from the last season. After drilling, a spile is placed
into the tree and a bucket hangs on that. You know when its time to start
drilling by paying attention to the weather. When the nights are still at or
below freezing and the daytime temps go above freezing, its time. Tis
pattern of freeze-thaw-freeze-thaw is what starts the sap fowing in the
trees.
After collecting the sap from the full buckets, it was time to go to the
sugaring house. We smelled the smoke and watched it rise into the chilly
air. Once inside, it was cozy, warm and steamy, smelling faintly of caramel
corn. Te wood-burning evaporator boils down the sap into syrup. Long
ago folks used to have to stir the sap constantly to keep it from burning.
Now, this machine keeps the liquid moving all on its own. We could hear
the gurgling, boiling sap, and see how it went from clear (in one bin) to
light amber (in the fnal bin). It takes about 40 gallons of sap to make just
one gallon of syrup, but the reward for all that patience and hard work is
delicious.
Go ahead and taste the sap straight
from the tree if you want, Erika
encouraged.
Speaking of delicious, we ended our time together with a
reward of pancakes and (you guessed it) maple syrup. Tese
cakes were cooked on a cast-iron griddle over an open fame. I
think the combination of that plus working up such an appe-
tite made these the best pancakes Ive ever tasted. We wolfed
them down like we hadnt eaten for days.
So have faith. Be patient. And watch for signs of spring.
Believe it or not, its coming!
Yoder Farm
1818 Wendmere Ln.
Fort Wayne, IN
farm@yoderfarm.com
YoderFarm.com
Jen Helmuth Shenk is a wife, mama to three boys and photographer
living in northern Indiana. You can see more of her photography
and writing at Blog.JenShenkPhotography.com.
I
have a problem with Local: Sustainable Foods & Cured Meats. If
youve visited Ellie and Pat Mullinss jewel box of a store in New
Bufalo, Michigan, youll know what I mean. Step just one foot
inside the cheery shop and the world outside goes fuzzy and dim. Te
meat caseloaded with Pats charcuterie, handcrafted sausages and
fresh meatsmesmerizes. Shelves of small-batch delicacies (spiced
cocktail cherries! bacon mayonnaise!) and bins of lovingly curated
vegetables captivate. I just stare, dumbfounded, every time. (Word
to the wise: Unless you have an exceptionally patient spouse, do not
leave your better half waiting in the car while you pop into Local for
a minute. Its just not possible.)
Tankfully, Ellie Mullins is always at the ready to help those of us
made witless by artisanal bacon. Heres her annotated shopping list to
keep you focusedbecause the only thing better than a trip to Local is
devouring those meaty treats and tasty condiments once you get home.
Maya Parson
Haps Bacon
Named after Pats grandpa, Hap Murphey. Tey called him Hap because
he was such a happy baby. And, bacon makes one happy. When Pat
and I frst met when we were working at the Hungry Cat restaurant in
Santa Barbara, California, he made this same bacon recipe. Whenever I
was hungry, Pat would slowly render a thick slab over the wood-burning
grill and sneak it on my cutting board. Key to my heart!
Bacon Jam
After slicing a slab of bacon wed be stuck with ends, still delicious but not
a pretty hunk anymore. One day a good family friend, Gary, came in and
said he was going to try to make some bacon jam and, if he liked it, hed
bring us a taste and the recipe. Well, he did and we did. Over time its
become quite popular! In fact, now we have a bacon jam disclaimer: Its
available only on Sunday mornings. Anyone who can hold one can buy
one, but when were out were out.
Chorizo
Tis is a Mexican-style chorizo: fresh, bold and bright. It is a variation of
one that Pat used to make at the Hungry Cat. Tere it was ground with
a hand-cranked grinder that we still have on our kitchen shelf. I think
the magic in it has to do with binding it by hand with a combination
of chilled tequila and red wine vinegar. Plus it never hurts to have an
ingredient bottle of tequila hanging around.
Baby Back Ribs
A new favorite item of mine that I think Pat mastered this year is baby
back ribs. Actually, they had been on trial for a while. Every weekend Pat
would break down a pork loin and hed turn the ribs into victory ribs for
Da Bears Sunday game. Now they appear rubbed or smoked in our case
about once a week. A couple of variations are already in place: a barbecue
style with a cider vinegar mop and smoked with peach wood from Seed-
ling Fruit Farm in South Haven, Michigan, and a Korean-style barbecue
smoked with pear wood from Stumm Farm right here in New Bufalo.
Lapin Conft
Heaven in a jar. Rabbit it a beautiful, delicate meat. It is also lean, so
curing it and confting it in duck fat makes it heavenly. It is delicious
tempered and served with a fresh baguette, a whole-grain mustard and
cornichons. I also love it crisped up with duck fat in a saut pan and
served with fresh pasta and peas as a fun variation on carbonara.
Local: Sustainable Foods & Cured Meats
424 E. Bufalo St.
New Bufalo, MI
269.231.5138
LocalNewBufalo.com
artisans
BACON JAM? YES PLEASE!
Meat Counter Must-Haves fom Local Favorites
PHOTOGRAPHY BY IVAN LABIANCA
Handcrafted sausages and delectable charcuterielike their famous bacon jamdraw customers to Local, Ellie and Pat Mullins specialty shop.
Healthy people.
Healthy communities.
GreenTown Michiana
Tuesday, April 22, 2014
Downtown South Bend, Indiana
From healthy living to local food, energy to
greening your business, water to outdoor space,
GreenTown Michiana will help you make the
healthy choice the easy choice.
Join us for GreenTown Michiana 2014 as we
combine a working day of aspiration with a day of
inspiration and perspiration, highlighting initiatives
from around the area and providing opportunities to
advance projects and sustainability in the region.
Community Partners:
AEP Indiana-Michigan Power
Inovateus Solar
IUSB - Center For A Sustainable Future
Sustainer Sponsors:
New Energy Homes
TRANSPO
Wightman & Associates
SPONSORS
Exhibitors:
Greening The Bend
Indiana REA
Media Partners:
WNIT Public Television
edible MICHIANA
Register at www.greentownconference.com
zS Beers On Tnp nnd n 1ull Bnr
Smoke 1ree Enoironment
Delicious Locnl & Orgnnic 1ood
219 S. Main
Goshen, IN 46526
574.533.3302
Tues-Sat 4pm-2am
Kitchen Closes at 10pm
www.aConstantSpring.com
WHOS
YOUR
BUTCHER?
Meet Michianas Meat
Specialists
PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID JOHNSON
M
any folks wonder ifin the words of chef
Andrew Jones, page 33, this issuethe
elusive, old-timey butcher shop still exists.
Our answer? And how!
Here are just some of the meat experts that make
Michiana one of the best places to fnd your own
neighborhood butcher.
Photos taken at Bread & Chocolate Catering and Events at the Old Bag Factory, Goshen, IN. Left to right: Bob Yoder
(Yoders Meat and Cheese Company), Dustin and Bill Mattern (Matterns Butcher Shop and Corner Deli), Fabian
Corro (El Rosal Supermarket), Kevin Crouch (Charlies Butcher Block), Daryl Oberholzer (Bales Butcher Shop),
Shane Oberholzer (Martins Custom Butchering & Meats), Alfred Ottusch (Bridgman Premier Meat Market), Pat
Mullins (Local: Sustainable Foods & Cured Meats).
YODERS MEAT &
CHEESE CO.
Tere are more than 100 cuts of meat to
choose from at Yoders. Each is sliced to
perfection by the shops master butchers.
Te three-generation family-owned
business raises its own cattle on two
farms. Dustin Yoder, son of the current
owner, Robert Yoder, explains, I like
dealing with cattle. Its a good industry
to be in when youre providing people
with quality meat.
Te Yoder family raises their cattle in
small herds on pasture. Te animals are
grain fed by hand with feed that is free of
animal byproducts, hormones, steroids
and other chemical additives. (Grass-fed
beef is also available seasonally.)
Yoders Meat & Cheese also ofers
meat from other area farms, including
chicken, bison, pork and lamb, as well
as meat rubs and spices, cheeses, pre-
serves, handmade noodles and other
pantry items.
Liz Core
435 S. Van Buren St. (SR5)
Shipshewana, Idiana
260.768.4715
YodersMeatAndCheese.com
JAWORSKIS MARKET
Jaworskis has provided the Michiana area
with locally raised pork, beef, chicken and
more since 1997, when owner Chris Ja-
worski purchased the business from Ma-
ciejewski Locker Plant, which had been in
operation in the area since the 1930s.
I chose to purchase the business be-
cause of the loyal following Meciejewskis
already had, Jaworski says. Tey did an
Old World style of Polish sausage that was
very popular, and we didnt want to change
that. Everyone seems to love it.
Other popular favorites are Jaworskis
smoked meats and jerkies from their three
smokehouses.
Jaworskis also ofer deer processing,
hog roasts and catering, as well as hot car-
ryout items and barbecue on weekends.
David Palmer
58413 Crumstown Hwy.
South Bend, IN
877.403.7315
JaworskisMarket.com
MISHLER PACKING
COMPANY
Mishler Packing Company in LaGrange,
Indiana, has been producing quality meat
products for almost 70 years.
Current owner Michael Monson
worked as a butcher for one of the origi-
nal owners, Paul Mishler. When Mishler
retired, Monson took over. Monson has
been butchering for 26 years.
I take pride in doing it right, Monson
says. When were cutting beef, we treat it
as if it were for us.
Te most popular item at the shop is
the pork pattiesthey are so popular they
are often bought in bulk to sell at county
fairs and fund-raising events.
Mishler Packing ofers both locally
purchased meats and meats purchased
from large distributors. However, Mon-
son assures, they never skimp on quality.
Mishlers products are healthy, good and
wholesome.
Liz Core
5680 W. 100 N
LaGrange, IN
260.768.4156
MARTINS CUSTOM
BUTCHERING & MEATS
A small herd of cattle peek around the
corner of a building at Martins Custom
Butchering & Meats. Inside, Shane Ober-
holzer and his two sons carry on the family
business started in 1967 by his grandfather.
Grandpa started out and he just
slaughtered one hog a week and peddled
it in town, says Shane. We grow our own
M+T+TH+F+Sat 11am - 3pm
Wed 11am - 8pm
Closed Sunday
226 E. Main St. Niles, MI
(269) 687-0880
Great Local Menu
+ New Hours
beef now. We raise Black Angus cattle that
we buy of a ranch in Georgia and feed
em out. Ten we process them. Tey are
raised without antibiotics or hormones,
and their beef is all dry aged between one
and two weeks.
Tey sell their beef as halves or quarters,
and on Friday and Saturday fresh cuts are
available in the meat case. Tey also sell
their own cured meats, such as hams, ba-
con and dried beef. Also available are liver,
brains, tongue and pon hausalso known
as scrapple. Teir pork is raised on a lo-
cal farm, and they also carry chicken, lamb
and goat meat.
Many customers travel from as far away
as Indianapolis, lower Michigan and even
Chicago.
Were unique because we can work
with a lot of diferent ethnic groups, who
usually prefer to buy their meat fresh.
Teres little peculiarities in diferent eth-
nic groups and what they want. Were able
to provide that because of the full slaugh-
ter, processing and retail establishment
that we have.
Lisa Harris
27580 County Rd. 42
Wakarusa, IN
574.862.2982
Martins Custom Butchering also operates
Bales Butcher Shop in Syracuse, Indiana.
MATTERNS BUTCHER
SHOP & CORNER DELI
Bill Mattern started his afternoon with
brisket. Te sandwich, served on a home-
made baguette, is a new Tursday feature
that Bill and his son, Dustin, have unveiled
at Matterns Butcher Shop & Corner Deli
in Goshen, Indiana. As co-owners since
2009, both have learned the power of beef.
We sell 200300 pounds of beef on
sale Tuesdays, says Bill. My dad always
said, If you cant make good ground beef,
they wont buy your steak. Its a staple.
People come back and just rave.
Its a lesson passed down through gen-
erations. Bills father, Richard Mattern,
started Super Steer Meat Co. in 1956. Te
family owned that business until 2009;
Dustin and Bill also opened a meat coun-
ter at American Countryside Farmers Mar-
ket in Elkhart, Indiana, but in 2008 they
wanted a change.
We wanted something that was more
of a six-day-a-week business instead of
three days a week, says Dustin.
When Matterns opened its doors fve
years ago, father and son got what they
wished for. Te butcher shop, located in
downtown Goshen, is packed with cus-
tomers every day of the week. On an aver-
age First Friday in summer, the store will
serve 600 people.
523 S. Main St. Elkhart
523tapandgrill.com 574.523.1523
CHARLIES BUTCHER
BLOCK
Kevin and Robin Crouch bought Charlies
Butcher Block from Monica and Charlie
Hull in 2010 to fulfll a dream of running a
local butcher/deli shop in Elkhart, Indiana.
Kevin was in construction before,
says Robin. Whenever we would go to
big cities and visit little shops like Char-
lies, Kevin would talk about how he want-
ed to open a place like that in Elkhart.
Custom sausages make Charlies stand
out from the competitors. Best sellers in-
clude jalapeo, bell pepper and onion, and
giardiniera. One couple in the area orders
up to 100 pounds at a time of custom beef
sausage.
Everything is hand-cut and handmade
by us, and most of the items are made fresh
in the kitchen every morning, says Kevin.
Kevin greets customers by name as
they enter the market. We have a lot of
great, loyal customers who have been here
for years before we were here and are still
coming, says Robin.
Sometimes new people say we dont
have this or that, but thats because we
make it every day and we do run out, says
Kevin. We put a lot of care and thought
into making our foods fresh and original.
We care about our customers being happy
and loving our food. If theres one thing I
want them to know, its that Charlies has
been making it fresh since 1978.
Taylor Nef
1900 Berry St.
Elkhart, IN
574.264.6034
CharliesButcherBlock.com
55503 S.R.15
Bristol, IN 46507
574.848.WINE (9463)
fruithillswinery.com
From local chicken and pork to beef
raised on small farms, all products are
high-end, says Bill, and prices can refect
that.
Te most popular item is their Old
World sausage brats, in favors like beer,
apple or cheesy potato.
When we frst opened, we werent sell-
ing many brats, but people fnally caught
on, says Dustin. Now, if the case doesnt
have them were in trouble.
Matterns also ofers a full-service lunch
counter, with 20 signature sandwiches, as
well as salads and specialty products.
As Matterns has grown in popularity,
both Bill and Dustin believe in giving back.
Tey support 4-H livestock auctions, Salva-
tion Army and the Northern Indiana Food
Bank.
We do as much as we can, says Dustin.
As our business grows, our giving grows.
And its the customers, Bill says, that
drive their decisions.
To have people come up to you and
say Tat was the best meal I ever had
that makes you feel good.
Kate Stoltzfus
201 S. Main St.
Goshen, IN
574.971.8906
MatternsMeatsAndDeli.com
SAWYERS MEATS
A staple at the South Bend Farmers Mar-
ket, Sawyers Meats has been feeding the
mouths of Michiana since 1917. Owner
Joe Sawyer is the fourth generation to own
the meat shop.
I bought Sawyers from my dad, who
owned it for 10 years, who bought it from
his dad, who bought it from his dad, says
Joe, laughing.
Joes great-grandfather opened Saw-
yers Packing House in Wakarusa, Indiana,
where the meat was broken down and then
retailed in South Bend. Even though the
slaughterhouse was closed in 1944, they
still keep their hands in the processing.
We buy about half of our beef from
Mishler Packing Co. in LaGrange, In-
diana, says Joe. We do the processing
[breaking the meat into loins and steaks],
and they do the killing.
Joe also takes pride in the way Sawyers
accommodates personal orders.
If you have a special meat-bundle or-
der, we wait until the day you come to pick
it up to cut it, says Joe. We dont have it
in the freezer and then put it in a bundle.
We cut it fresh.
Whats special about Sawyers in the
spring? Te changing variety of steaks, cuts
that are unavailable in stores, the weekly spe-
cials and the real hardwood-smoked bacons.
BRIDGMAN PREMIER
MEAT MARKET
Matthew Rossiter got his frst job with
meat, making barbecue, at age 14. Now
general manager of Bridgman Premier
Meat Market in Bridgman, Michigan,
Rossiter runs the market with his stepfa-
ther, owner Alfred Ottusch.
Te market, which was opened in the
1950s by John and Ann Toth, still has
its original structure and meat counter,
but Rossiter and Ottusch (who is the
ffth owner) have transformed it from a
small meat and grocery store to a specialty
butcher shop.
Today, Bridgman Premier Meat Mar-
ket sells staples like fresh-cut steaks and
house-ground beef along with specialty
items like pulled pork and natural-casing
sausage with house-mixed spices. Meats
are cut to order and are free of hormones
and additives.
Rossiter says the local food movement
has made a diference.
People are starting to appreciate what
they put in their mouths and what they
eat. Tey are now understanding that the
supermarket isnt always the freshestand
starting to appreciate local butcher shops.
Kate Stoltzfus
4352 Lake St.
Bridgman, MI
269.465.3533
BridgmanMeatMarket.com
Sawyers is really growing because of
our varieties of bacon, says Joe. We have
country bacon, peppered, applewood,
cherrywood, pecan-wood, Canadian and
beef. Teir bacon comes from LaGrange
and Wakarusa and other locales within a
100-mile radius.
Taylor Nef
South Bend Farmers Market
1105 Northside Blvd.
South Bend, IN
574.289.5903
DC MEATS
Steve and Anna Gunter opened DC Meats
in Osceola, Indiana, in 2006, carrying
on a family tradition that began in 1941
in Shipshewana. Teir son, Travis, and
daughter-in-law, Stephanie, also run the
business.
Te shop sells locally raised, antibi-
otic- and hormone-free meats, including
grass-fed beef, pork, chicken and rabbit.
(Tis year they will transition to selling
non-GMO beef.) Tey also sell farm eggs,
milk, cheeses, frozen fsh and specialty
items like sea salts, meat rubs, teas and lo-
cally roasted cofee.
Meats (including whole animals from
area farms) can be custom cut and freezer
wrapped. Tey also process wild game.
What we do is very rare, says Anna.
Most butcher shops get their meat al-
ready cut up from other sources. Ours is
still coming from the farm.
DC Meatss two smokehouses produce
bacon, hams and other old-fashioned
smoked meats. Most Friday nights they
serve delicious barbecue.
Te family decided to sell healthy-
raised meats after Stephanie became ill
and was afected by steroid treatments.
According to Stephanie, Te problem
is, when most people go to a grocery store
theyre just surviving. When they come
here, I want them to thrive. I want them
to have that good food, that healthiness
that they need. You really see the difer-
ence in what it does to you.
Lisa Harris
1711 Lincolnway W.
Osceola, IN
574.674.2333
DCMeats.net
Profled elsewhere in this issue: Local
Sustainable Foods & Cured Meats (pg. 17)
Driers Meat Market (pg. 30).
bertrano|arm.org bertrano|arm@yaboo.com
Organic production is the basis of our year-round
educational programs for all ages:
Proouce & meat CSA Group & Farm-to-
worklng membersblps Scbool tours & programmlng
Young aoult lnternsblps Homesteaolng classes

Learn to eat (and farm)
EL ROSAL
SUPERMARKET
El Rosal is not your typical butcher shop.
At El Rosal you will fnd traditional Mex-
ican meats: arracheras (thinly cut beef
skirt or fank steaks known for their fa-
vor rather than tenderness), pigs feet to be
pickled, lengua (tongue) and more.
Co-owner Fabian Corro is available,
along with two other butchers, to help
you fnd the type of meat you want, cut
the way you want it.
But a trip to El Rosal is worth the ex-
perience for more than just the meats.
Parents bring their children to play with
the quarter machinesa joyful tempta-
tion. And the afordable market sells ev-
erything from fresh limes and Roma to-
matoes to chorizo and chicharrones (pork
rinds).
A family outing to El Rosal is
best concluded with a taco or torta
(sandwich) at Taquera El Rosal, just
past the always-welcoming cashiers.
David Martinez
2693 S. Main St.
Elkhart, IN
574.522.0008
M
uch has changed since 1891
when Ed Drier, then 10 years
old, was earning 25 cents
a week plucking feathers from freshly
butchered chickens at the Union Meat
Market in downtown Tree Oaks,
Michigan.
Today, horse-drawn wagons no lon-
ger deliver their products on unpaved
city roads. Te farm and slaughterhouse
Drier ran after buying the butcher shop
in 1913 is long gone, and the store,
which once also housed a buggy factory,
is lit by electricity and not gas lamps.
But when customers enter Driers
Meat Market, theres still a family mem-
ber to greet them. Te store, now run
by Driers granddaughter Carolyn and
her nephew David Wooley, retains other
remnants of history as well. Te weath-
ered wood building, built in the 1850s
and now a National Historic Site, is
fronted with the original four-paned
windows that predate plate glass. Inside,
wood-plank foors, squeaky and worn
with age, are sprinkled with sawdust.
Tucked away on a shelf loaded with
condiments and other edibles is a black
and white photo taken by Edward Stei-
chen of poet Carl Sandburg, who had
a summer home nearby. Teres also a
photo and letter from Larry Hagman of
Dallas and I Dream of Jeanie fame, who
ordered hams from the store.
Before Carolyn could drive she
would ride her bike to help out in the
store. After getting her license, her fa-
ther opened another Driers in Sawyer,
Michigan. Carolyn would load up her
car on Saturday morning with hams and
sausages and drive there to stock and
open the store for the day. Later, it was
lunch with her father and mother, June,
at Schwarks for 75-cent hamburgers
HAMS WITH A
HISTORY
Generation Afer Generation
Feasts on Driers Meats
BY JANE AMMESON PHOTOGRAPHY BY IVAN LABIANCA
28 edible Michiana early Spring 2014
Driers sausages have become synonymous
with Tree Oaks, Michigan. In summer 2013
the town held a Wurstfest in honor of Driers
centennial. Top: Te Drier family gathered to
celebrate the 100th anniversary of the familys
meat market. (Photo by Richard Hellyer) Mid-
dle: Carolyn Drier is the third generation of the
Drier family working at the market. Lower:
Julie Schafer (right) helps her in the shop.
and a bit of business advice from Ed Drier Jr.
My dad always said to me, If anybody
asks, business is always good, she says.
Carolyn Drier also recalls stories about
how her grandfather, a mainstream Repub-
lican and a local political powerhouse, was
often visited by judges and other politicians
who drank and discussed business in the back
room.
If you wanted the vote in this part of the
county, she says, you came to Ed.
But as much as her life was intertwined
with the market, there was a time when
Carolyn Drier didnt work in the family
business. Instead she earned a teaching degree
and married. Years later, divorced and needing
to support her three daughters, she wondered
what she would do. Her father ofered her
work at the store, teaching her how to smoke
hams and make sausages, including Driers
famed bologna.
Its really 80/20 ground chuck with our
own seasonings, she says of the bologna, which
is sold in large rings. Our biggest mistake was
calling it bologna because its not like any bo-
logna you can buy anywhere else. We should
have called it German summer sausage.
Nevertheless, despite its name, Driers bo-
logna along with their hams, hot dogs, freshly
made brats and country pt-like liver sausage
are all popular.
We probably sell hundreds of hams, par-
ticularly during the holidays, says David
Wooley, who started working at Driers full
time when he was 19 in 1994 but helped around the store well before thatindeed,
a photo on the wall shows him as a baby and hes next toyou guessed ita string of
bologna.
Given how Driers sausages have become, in ways, synonymous with Tree Oaks, this
heritage was celebrated during the frst annual Wurstfest last summer.
When we opened our store, we wanted it to be like how Driers would have been a
century ago, and Wurstfest is a fun event and a great way of celebrating past foodways,
says Ellie Mullins, who with her husband, Pat, owns Local, a butcher shop in the nearby
lakeside town of New Bufalo.
Tis place was my fathers passion, says Drier. And its mine, too. Even if I was rich,
I couldnt see not working here.
When Drier thinks about the past, she considers how dif cult it was for her grand-
father and father, who worked retail all day, made sausages and cured hams, and then at
night butchered animals for the store. But despite all the hard work, she sees why they
persevered.
Noting that they have three generations worth of customers, some of whom have been
visiting the store for fve or more decades, she says, Sometimes after a long hard day and
Im exhausted, someone will walk in and say how much they love the store. And that just
does it for me.
Driers Meat Market
14 S. Elm St.
Tree Oaks, MI
269.756.3101
Driers.com
Reopens for season April 4
Dining Designed by Driers: Carolyns Collection, a cookbook of family recipes compiled by
Carolyn Drier, is available at the store and from Driers.com.
Travel/food writer Jane Simon Ammeson lives in Stevensville, Michigan, and is a member of
the Indiana Foodways Alliance, a restaurant reviewer for Gayot.com and is also a James Beard
Foundation judge. Follow Jane HPFood@HPAmmeson
www.purpleporchcoop.com
Member-Owner Supported
Local grass-fed meats
Local hormone-free milk
Local seasonal produce
Local baked goods
Locally roasted cofee
Organic bulk foods, produce
& packaged foods
Hot Soups, Hot cofee
& Salad Bar in Cafe Max
Monday - Saturday
7am - 7pm
123 N. Hill St.
Everyone
Welcome
NOW
OPEN
PURPLE
PORCH
CO-OP
STORE
The areas largest selection
of vegetarian meat choices
Supplements discounted 20% every day
Organic, vegetarian and gluten free selections
335 bulk food items
And much more...
Your Healthy Lifestyle Grocery
I
n the now-classic Portlandia
spoof on the local food move-
ment, two locavores, Peter and
Nance, quiz a restaurant server about
the chicken on the menu. Is it local?
Is it really organic? Did he roam the
farm happilywith his wing around
his chicken buddies? Before they order
their food, Peter and Nance are of to
visit the farm.
Tese days, commitment to sus-
tainably raised local meat isnt limited
to Portlandias semi-fctional Pacifc
Northwest utopia. Here in the Mid-
west, many food lovers are equally pas-
sionate about the provenance of our
meats. Just listen to some of our favor-
ite Michiana chefs explain why they
put local meat on their menus:
Tom Cariano, State Fare and
Provisions
Lets face a simple fact here right now:
Meat should taste better!
I started raising my own livestock
during my cooking career because I
wasnt happy with the favor of what
I was buying. When animals are raised
on pasture they acquire this fullness
of favor, and that is what we prefer
to serve. Nothing is from a feedlot. It
is an old-school approach. We like it
when grandmothers come in and say,
Tats how I remember chicken tast-
ing. Todays culture is fast-food ori-
ented and convenience trumps favor.
What makes State Fare unique
happens outside the restaurants walls.
Much of my time is spent on the farm,
raising and growing ingredients for the
restaurant. Our family and friends also
supply the restaurant. We visit their
farms, know their methods and mo-
tives. We buy the animals from them
on the hoof and do all the butcher-
ing ourselves. Tis allows us to make
the tastiest food we can.
Talk of localfoodis everywhere, es-
pecially in the restaurant world. Local
food isnt just about distance. Respon-
sible farming practices, a shorter sup-
ply chain and a higher-quality product
are implicit in this term. Buying local
is no guarantee of quality, but it does
allow for transparency. You, too, can
visit the farms and let your senses dic-
tate if the farm is good or not. Know
the farmers. Ask them questions. Edu-
cate yourself.
I wish what we were doing was con-
sidered totally normal. Buying whole
animals that are humanely raised in a
sustainable manner from local farmers
should be normal. At least thats what
I think, and its what we do.
Tom Cariano is the owner and chef of
State Fare and Provisions in Sawyer,
Michigan. He was formerly the souschef
and butcher at So Cafe.
Brad Hindsley, Spire Farm-to-
Fork Cuisine
I grew up on a farm where we raised
a majority of the meat that our fam-
ily consumed because of the favor
and because we got to control what
we were eating. Above everything else,
I buy local meat because it tastes so
much better. Tat may be a clich, but
I promise that it is true.
But buying local meat also means
having a close relationship with the
people that hand-feed the animals,
it means knowing exactly how the
animals live and what they eat and it
WHY
LOCAL
MEAT?
Taste Is Just the First
of Many Reasons,
Area Chefs Say
We like it when grandmothers come
in and say, Tats how I remember
chicken tasting. Todays culture is
fast-food oriented and convenience
trumps favor.
Tom Cariano, State Fare and Provisions
For Tom Cariano, local meat means pigs raised by
his friends and family and butchered in his kitchen
at State Fare and Provisions in Sawyer, Michigan.
(Photo by Richard Hellyer)
means trusting the farmer to deliver exactly what I order. Buying local
allows me, as a chef, to get customized cuts and smaller quantities for
special events, and it allows me to serve meat on my menu that I can
guarantee was living and breathing in a humane, sustainable environ-
ment just days before it was put on the plate.
Brad R. Hindsley is the owner and executive chef at Spire Farm-to-Fork
Cuisine in LaPorte, Indiana. He grew up on a small farm near there.
Jenny Drilon, Bentwood Tavern
When I frst decided to become a professional cook I had a romantic
idea of the market.
Growing up, I had gone to the grocery store and farm stands in the
summer. I thought the commercial market would include those same
kinds of farmers. What I found, instead, was semi-trucks transporting
unripe fruits and vegetables engineered to travel and look good. I was
disappointed, to say the least.
Tere are so many good reasons why I like to buy local: know-
ing who grows and feeds your livestock, where and how they roam
around, employing local people, fresher food, creating community,
preserving genetic diversity.... Te hard part for me is translating that
to running a busy restaurant. It is easier to do at home!
I do think the situation is getting better every year with more edu-
cation and more people going back to the farm. Every day I become
aware of new farmers and growers. I hope to meet and plan with some
new farmers for the 2014 season.
Local food is an investment in the future. By supporting local
farmers today, you are helping to ensure that there will be farms in
your community tomorrow.
Jenny Drilon is the executive chef for Toast Hotel Group in New Bufalo,
Michigan. She was previously the owner of Jennys Restaurant in Union
Pier and Lakeside (now closed). Chef Drilon was born and raised in
Lansing, Illinois.
Andrew Jones, Viand Chef Services
As I began cooking professionally, I read cookbooks and caught
glimpses of cooking shows in which instructions included: Form a
relationship with your local butcher and request your pork chops be
cut extra thick. I was perplexed. Where would I fnd said chummy
butcher willing to indulge my every carnivorous whim? Does the elu-
sive old-timey butcher shop still exist?
A few years ago, I began really focusing on the quality and origin
of the food I was to eat and serve others. I visited farms and asked
questions: What do you feed your animals? How are they pro-
cessed? I encountered grass-fed beef, foraging pigs, truly free-range
poultry and rare, endangered breeds of all kinds.
Since then, I have enjoyed some of the most delicious pork belly,
short ribs and chicken in the Midwest. I cant tell you that it will be
inexpensive or convenient to locate purveyors of quality, local meat,
but you will be glad you did.
Andrew Jones is a personal chef specializing in the use of local and seasonal
ingredients. He is the proprietor of Viand Chef Services in Warsaw,
Indiana, which provides an array of culinary services to the Kosciusko
County lakes community.
Holiday Hams and pies
for your family gatherings.
Now carrying a line of
all-natural deli lunch meats.
201 Keystone Dr. Wakarusa, IN | 574.862.1959
Store hours: MonFri 8:305:30pm Sat
8:304:00pm Bakery opens at 7:00am
BEFORE YOU EAT,
KNOW YOUR MEAT
E
ating better meat can be as easy as buying directly from the folks who raised it
or shopping at your local butcher shop or food co-op. Knowing exactly what
youre getting, however, is another matter. Heres our cheat sheet for under-
standing the labels. And remember: When in doubt, ask your farmer!
For a list of local farms that sell meat through community-supported agriculture
(CSA) harvest subscriptions, see our website: EdibleMichiana.com

GRASSFED

PASTURE
RAISED

FREE
RANGE

HUMANELY
RAISED
Indicates cattle relying on pasture or rangeland to supply pro-
tein and energy requirements. Generally considered to be the
most environmentally friendly manner of livestock production.
Grass-fed livestock grow to market weight slower and develop less
inter-muscular fat (or marbling). Most livestock are not 100%
grass-fed.
Grass-fed meat in Michiana: Middlebrook Farm in Tree
Oaks, Michigan (MiddlebrookFarm.net) raises exclusively grass-
fed animals. (See our story on Middlebrook in our Fall 2011 edi-
tion, archived at EdibleMichiana.com.)
Like the term cage-free, free range is sometimes used by egg producers to indicate the humane treatment of chickens.
USDA regulations, however, specify only that the animal has been allowed access to an area outside of its containment loca-
tion. Te USDA does not specify the area or quality of the outside range, nor does it specify the amount of time poultry
must have in the outside range. Te USDA has no specifc defnition for free-range eggs, beef, pork or animal products
(such as milk).
A term sometimes used interchangeably with grass-fed, pasture-
raised describes animals raised on pasture for their entire lives,
with the exception of the initial birthing/brooding period. Popu-
larized by sustainable farming icon Joel Salatin, the pasture-raised
label means animals that are raised without containment, other
than appropriate fencing. Te animals are free to roam and forage
in farm felds or woods.
Pasture-raised meat in Michiana: Located in LaGrange, Indiana,
Gunthorp Farms is one of the largest pastured poultry producers
in the country and was recently recognized by ConsumerReports.
org for its healthy and sustainable chicken processing. Owned
by the Gunthorp family for four generations, the farm raises
chickens, ducks, turkeys and pigs on 46 acres of grazing pasture.
Te animals enjoy foraging on grass and clover pastures and are
supplemented with GMO-free corn, soybeans and Hubbards
Homestead Mineral Mix. All animals are hormone- and
antibiotic-free. Gunthorp products, including whole animals,
portioned cuts, ground meats, smoked sausages, lard and bacon,
are processed on site. Te farm does not use bleach to process its
chickens. info@gunthorpfarms.com
Meat raised with concern for the welfare of the animal. Tere are no nationwide standards, but there are humane certifers
(for more information, see Humaneitarian.org) who guarantee certain standards from participating farms. Farmers who call
their meat humane typically give animals the space to act and move naturally and avoid causing the animals unnecessarily
discomfort throughout the life cycle.
Pastured
Freedom Ranger
chicken at Blue
Heron Farm,
Millersburg,
Indiana (Photo
by Elise Hofer
Derstine)

ARTISAN

ORGANIC

SUSTAINABLE
Certifed organic meat must be raised on feed and grass that is
free of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides. Animals must also be
antibiotic- and artifcial-hormone-free. Few farms in Michiana
are certifed organic, but many use organic methods.
Organic meat in Michiana: Located in Dowagiac, Michigan,
Roseland Organic Farms produces and sells certifed organic and
grass-fed beef, pork, chicken and turkey. Since 1985, the family
has carefully cultivated their 1,000-acre farm into a haven for all
things organic. Roseland Organic Farms was one of the frst fully
organic farms in Michiana, started by John and Merrill Clark,
parents of current owner Lincoln Clark. John Clark, a biochem-
ist, turned to organic agriculture after observing the negative ef-
fects of conventional chemicals and pesticides on the soil. His
wife, Merrill Clark, was the chairperson of the Michigan Organic
Food and Farm Alliance. Today, the Clark family continues to
prioritize the health of the soil as key to producing healthy and
nutritious meats. roselandorganicfarms@gmail.com
Meat products prepared with respect to traditional ingredients, methods and in small batches. Unlike typical commercial
food products, artisan cured, aged and fresh meat products are normally produced from seasonally available ingredients
using small-batch or by-hand techniques. As such, quantities of true artisan foods are normally very limited.
Artisan meats in Michiana: Te charcuterie and fresh sausages at Local in New Bufalo, Michigan (page 20, this issue)
make us feel like kids in a candy shop. Bacon jam, anyone? LocalNewBufalo.com
Sustainable agriculture is an integrated system of plant and animal
production that will, among other things, provide for human food needs,
enhance environmental quality, make efcient use of natural resources and
enhance the life of farmers and society as a whole.
Sustainable farming in Michiana: Prairie Winds Nature Farm
(Lakeville, Indiana), featured in our Spring 2013 issue of Edible Michiana
(archived online at EdibleMichiana.com).

HERITAGE A term used for animal breeds that have unique genetic characteristics or traits that allow them to be well adapted to local
environmental conditions or for a particular use or favor. For example, the Tamworth hog refects centuries of selection for
an outdoor life where they are expected to fnd their own food. Te result is an animal that produces fnely grained lean meat,
especially bacon.
Heritage breeds in Michiana: From Red Wattle hogs to Bourbon Red turkeys, Grass is Greener Meats and Produce in
Bremen, Indiana (page 38 in this issue) is our top pick for heritage breeds.

ANTIBIOTIC
AND
HORMONE
FREE
Tough not a claim regulated by the USDA, the phrase implies that the animals have not been administered with antibiotics
or hormones throughout their entire lifetimes. It is important to note that federal law bans any hormone use in hogs and
poultry (though not cattle) and therefore any label on those products is redundant.
Maya Parson and Liz Core, with excerpts from Its All In the Words by Kjeld
Petersen (originally published in Edible Memphis). Photo by Jenny Frech
Illustrations by Kathleen Petitjean
MICHIANA FARMERS MARKETS
Open during early spring
ELKHART COUNTY, IN
GOSHEN FARMERS MARKET
212 W. Washington St., Goshen,
at the Mill Race Center
Sat 8am1pm
ST. JOSEPH COUNTY, IN
GRANGER FARMERS MARKET
12435 Adams Rd. (SR 23)
Tues, Thur and Sat 26pm
PURPLE PORCH COOP
123 Hill St., South Bend
Pickup and Purchase:
Wed 57pm
SOUTH BEND FARMERS MARKET
1105 Northside Blvd.
Tues and Thur 7am2pm
Sat 7am3pm
Sponsored by the Goshen Farmers Market
Organic egetables, herbs, nowers & ruits
CSA shares available.
3480 \arren \oods Rd | 1hree Oaks, MI | granorarm.com,csa
Garden Seedling Sale | 100+ Organic Varieties | May 23-25
1900 Berry St. Elkhart, IN | 574-264-6034
www.charliesbutcherblock.com
Your Hometown Deli and Market for:
Fresh, homemade salads, breads,
desserts & entrees Fine meats,
including Hereford Beef Catering
N
ice to
M
eat you!
HOLY COWS?
Not Exactly, but Tese Farms Raise Meat with Respect
BY ANN HOSTETLER
B
ack in my teen years, when I considered becoming a vegetarian, I lamented the impact of humans on
plant and animal life. My wise mother shared Kahlil Gibrans poem, Te Prophet, with me:
Would that you could live on the fragrance of the earth, and like an air plant be sustained by the light.
But since you must kill to eat, and rob the newly born of its mothers milk to quench your thirst, let
it then be an act of worship.
Kahlil Gibran, Te Prophet
Ten she made my favorite pot roast for dinner, and I could not refuse.
Farmers who raise pastured meat on small-scale farms might
not call their vocation an act of worship, but they have chosen
to live close to the life cycle of animals from birth to table. Tey
know that the quality of meat is directly related to the quality of
life of the animal and how it is raised.
BLUE HERON FARM
Millersburg, Indiana
Pastured meat, according to Adam Derstine of Blue Heron
Farm, is meat from animals that have spent their lives with
access to fresh ground on a regular basis and depend on that
ground for nutrition and bedding. Its more than not confning
the animals; its about using pasture to keep them healthy and
tasty.
Adam and his wife, Elise, were living in Washington, DC,
when they discovered Michael Pollans Te Omnivores Dilemma
and fell in love with the idea of farming and raising their own
meat. Eventually they moved back to Goshen, Indiana, city of
their alma mater, and teamed up with Tom Stinson and Cas-
sandra Byler to form Blue Heron Farm.
Tom and Cassandra, who began farming produce in 2001,
now raise sheep, beef and chickens on their home farm in Mill-
ersburg. Adam and Elise raise pigs on 13 acres of fallow felds
overgrown with oak, apple and cherry trees. Last year Blue
Heron decided to experiment with feeding their hogs whey, a
by-product of cheesemaking that is highly nutritious but would
otherwise go to waste. Te results: delicious.
Last summer I visited the Millersburg farm with my grand-
daughter. While she clung to me, afraid of the dog and the
chickens, Tom and Cassandras 7-year-old daughter showed us
around the farm with the confdence of a child raised outdoors
and around animals. Tis fall both Blue Heron families wel-
comed new babies, who will likely have the same opportunity.
GRASS IS GREENER MEATS AND
PRODUCE
Bremen, Indiana
John and Toni Rowe raise pastured meat on their 20-acre farm
in Bremen, Indiana. Tree years ago they embarked on this ven-
ture both to ofer their family the experience of farm lifeJohns
farming heritage reaches back four generationsand to raise
healthier meat for their food. Friends began asking the Rowes
to raise animals for them, too. Teir Amish neighbors have also
taken an interest, recognizing methods that their grandfathers
Above: John and Toni Rowe use the Slow Food Movements Ark of Taste to
determine the breeds they raise on their 20-acre farm in Bremen, Indiana.
(Photo by Ashley Swartzendruber) Facing page: Scotch Highland cattle,
Hebron Farms, Vandalia, Michigan (Photo by Michelle Hebron)
At our table, we like to share and retell
stories we have about the animal we are
using for food. It is part of the respect
we show toward the animals we raise. It
also helps to reinforce to our children
that the ultimate goal of our livestock is
nutrition provisions for our family.
Toni Rowe
once used.
Te Rowes have a passion for heritage breeds, and use the Slow Food movements Ark
of Taste in determining the breeds they raise: Red Wattle hogs, Red Poll cattle, St. Croix
and Tunis sheep, Red Bourbon turkeys and Freedom Ranger chickens.
Teir business has grown rapidly, according to Toni: Tey started in March 2011 with
about 400 meat chickens, about 40 turkeys, eight pigs, three cows and two calves. In
just three seasons, their direct sale of meat grew to nearly 1,000 poultry, two dozen hogs,
eight beef and a half-dozen lambs for local families tables.
On the side, Toni has started the Dirty Hog soap business, using Red Wattle lard as
a base, in an efort to use as much of each animal as possible to create another market-
able product.
Clearly, the respect for life is at the heart of the Rowes farming enterprise. In response
to my question about the familys relationship to the animals they raise, Toni told me:
At our table, we like to share and retell stories we have about the animal we are using
for food. It is part of the respect we show toward the animals we raise. It also helps to
reinforce to our children that the ultimate goal of our livestock is nutrition provisions
for our family.
HEBRON FARMS
Vandalia, Michigan
Brothers Chris and Richard Hebron, with the help of Richards daughter, were loading
a truck for deliveries in Chicago, South Bend, Detroit and Ann Arbor when I drove up
the icy road to their farm, with its striking red saltbox house and mustard-yellow shed,
which houses their freezers. Richard; his wife, Annette; and their two children live on the
farm. Chris and his wife, Michelle, along with their four children, live in South Bend but
plan to move to the farm this spring.
Above: Red Bourbon turkeys, a heritage breed, at Grass is Greener Farm. (Photo by David
Johnson) Left: Farmer Chris Hebron (Photo by Ashley Swartzendruber)
Te Hebron family began farm-
ing in Southern Michigan almost
170 years ago, but the current
Hebron farm was purchased in
1976 by Tony Hebron, father of
Chris and Richard. Together they
have been raising grass-fed heritage
Highland cattle for over 30 years,
but began direct marketing the
meat about 15 years ago. In addi-
tion to Highland Beef Cattle, the
Hebrons raise hogs, turkeys, sheep
and chickens.
Like the other farmers in this
article, they use the Joel Salatin method of moveable pens for pasturing their 5,000
chickens and ofer their larger animals a non-GMO grain supplement in the winter.
Animals live on the farm year-round and are outdoors almost all of the time.
Te Hebrons raise vegetables in the spring and summer, and produce makes up half
of their summer CSA business. Teir direct marketing includes deliveries to Chicago,
South Bend, Ann Arbor and Detroit, and they are a weekly presence at the Purple
Porch Coop in South Bend.
A COMMITMENT TO RAISING BETTER MEAT
Raising pastured meat on a family-size farm takes whole-hearted commitment and
daily chores. Te animals must be fed and watered every day, their births attended,
their health monitored. Te meat must be butchered, inspected and marketed. And
the enterprise needs to be proftable enough to cover the substantial expenses and leave
something more for the farmers to live of of than a freezer full of meat.
Moreover, it takes conviction, passion, creativity, intelligence and a desire to engage
in lifelong learning. Blue Heron Farm, Grass is Greener Farm and Hebron Farms are
three examples of how the whole community benefts when local farm families are will-
ing to make that efort.
Ann Hostetler lives in Goshen, Indiana, where she teaches English and creative writing at
Goshen College. Shes a regular at the Goshen Farmers Market and writes a blog, Along
the Race for GoshenCommons.org. Shes the author of Empty Room with Light, a book of
poems, and editor of an anthology, A Cappella: Mennonite Voices in Poetry.
MARK YOUR
CALENDAR
FOR THIS UNIQUE
CULINARY EVENT!
FOR FURTHER DETAILS
GO TO FCDCIN.ORG
OR CALL 574.773.2149
AT COPPES COMMONS
IN NAPPANEE
The food was fabulous and well
presented. Of course, the cause
is even better than the food.
FCDC can be proud of this event.
Larry Thompson, Mayor of Nappanee
FARM
TO
TABLE
DINNER
AUCTION
EVENT
Featuring Locally Grown Cuisine
Prepared By Some of Northern
Indianas Most Noted Chefs
IN SUPPORT
OF FAMILY
CHRISTIAN
DEVELOPMENT
CENTER
THIRD
ANNUAL
Blue Heron Farm families. (Photo by Ashley
Swartzendruber). Below: Farmer Tom Stinson
with Blue Heron Farms bull, Ferdinand
(Photo by Adam Derstine)
M
artins Custom Butchering and Meats
(Wakarusa, Indiana) attracts custom-
ers from across the Michiana region and be-
yond. If you stop by the busy meat market on
a Saturday morning, youll fnd a diverse crowd
queuing up to buy everything from aged beef
to pork rinds. We sent Edible Michiana pho-
tographer David Johnson for a glimpse behind
the scenes.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID JOHNSON
For more on Martins Custom
Butchering and Meats, see page 24.
edible Michiana Marketplace
Friday through Monday 10-6, except Sundays 10-5
424 E. Buffalo Street | New Buffalo, MI
(269)231-5138 | www.localnewbuffalo.com
ORDER EASTER HAMS BY APRIL 5TH!!!
OUR PHILOSOPHY:
Source and showcase the tastiest
meats, cheeses, produce and artisanal
products the Midwest has to offer.
N
ate and Lou Ann Robinson
are the farmers behind Jakes
Country Meats in Cassopo-
lis, Michigan. Since the late 1990s,
the couple has built a big clientele
for their excellent pasture-raised pork
productsmostly from Berkshire
hogsby selling at farmers markets
in Chicago, about two hours away.
Teir products are sold through-
out Michiana. (Look for Jakes at
cooperative groceries like the Maple
City Market in Goshen, Indiana, and
farm-to-table restaurants like Ameri-
can Kitchen in St. Joseph, Michigan,
and Spire Restaurant in LaPorte, In-
diana. Jakes also has a roadside stand
at the farm in Cass County.)
While the retail business is fairly
new, their farm itself has been in
Nates family since the 1870s. And
while many farmers in recent years
have found it difcult to persuade
their children to stick with the
uncertain life in agriculture, the
THIS
LITTLE
PIGGY...
Robinson Family Raises Pork with a Purpose
BY BOB BENENSON
PHOTOGRAPHY BY IVAN LABIANCA
Robinsons have adult childrenand even grandchildrenworking with them on the
land.
Edible Michiana talked with the Robinsons about how they have maintained the
multi-generational tradition on their Southwest Michigan farm.
NATE ROBINSON
Q: Tell me a little about the history of Jakes.
Nate Robinson: Te main farm where Im atIm sixth generation. Were trying to
make it multi-generational beyond this point. One way were trying to do it is bring
the food right to the people, just like in olden days!
Q: Obviously its not unprecedented to have a farm stay in the same family, but its not the
rule anymore.
NR: What weve done too is added land to the original farm. Its still in the family, but
its like, I bought it from a cousin or an aunt or an uncle. So its not father-to-father-
to-father-to-father. But its still established as a family farm, because were all relatives.
Now Im reaching back and saying, Why cant the whole family be involved?
Q: Whos working on the farm now?
NR: My daughter [Renee] and my son [Jacob] are still working pretty much on the
farm. Tat would be seventh generation. Now, with my grandkids, in the summer
when theyre not in school, they work for us, so thats eight. So Ive got two generations
Im looking at, and Ive got to get this down to them.
Part of my job now is to align the business to do that, through taxes, all those things
you have to do to pass that along.... So theres actually three generations working there
right now. And my mom is still there, so there are pictures with the four generations
there. Shes 89. She does a lot of our cooking. When I need historical information I say,
Hey, Mom, what about this?
LOU ANN ROBINSON
Q: What was it like for you to move into this family that had been on this land for more
than a century?
Lou Ann Robinson: I grew up in the Grand Rapids area and relocated to this rural area.
My dad got a job down here. I was probably junior-high age. Nate and I got married
Above: Four generations of the Robinson family: (from top left) daughter Renee, father
Nate, grandmother Hattie and baby Lucy. Facing page: Nate Robinson (right) and son
Jake check on the pigs in the Robinsons barn. Te photographs show six generations of
Robinsons, including Nates great-great-great-grandfather Nathan.
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Fresh, First Cold Pressed
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Balsamic Vinegar
Taste and Try
And much more!
903 E. Canal Street | Winona Lake, IN 46590 | (574) 267- 7717
Visit us at one of our four locations:
1003 E. Canal Street, Winona Lake, IN | (574) 267-0636
225 Toscana, Granger IN | 201 S. Main St., Goshen, IN
Auction Barn & Flea Market, Shipshewana, IN (produce isle)
Where Health & Good Taste
Come Together
in 1973; we were right out of high school, and thats a big change. I grew up in
town and my dad had a regular type of job. When youre on a farm its totally dif-
ferentits not just a job, its your whole life.
Q: And of course, youve got all the animals in your charge, and they need 24/7/365
attention. Im sure when you started out there werent a whole lot of vacation opportu-
nities.
LAR: No. But we had a good time. We didnt do a whole lot. But we made a good
time out of what little we had. Tats important. I have four kidsthey all grew
up on a farm. We had a lot of good times that were incorporated with work. It was
just how you did things. You made fun where you could fnd it.
Q: Your timing [in starting the Jakes retail business] was really good, because you were
able to be in the forefront of this Good Food movement wave.
LAR: We were in the forefront. We did a feasibility study with Western Michigan
University in Kalamazoo. Tey did a feasibility study on pasture-raised pork. No-
body knew what it was, and nobody cared. Tey did this great big study and they
came back to us and they said, We dont think this business is going to fy because
nobody knows what it is. And we just kept slowly growing. We butchered six pigs,
and now were up to several hundred pigs a year that we do. Its grown that fast in
that amount of time.
Jakes Country Meats
55721 Decatur Rd.
Cassopolis, MI
269.445.3020
jakescountrymeats@gmail.com
JakesCountryMeats.com
Bob Benenson is a journalist specializing in food and drink. Prior to relocating to
Chicago in 2011, he covered elections and other things political at Congressional
Quarterly in Washington, DC, for 30 years. An avid home cook and fan of farmers
markets and craft beverage makers, Bob lives with his wife, Barb, and cat, Gracie, in
Chicagos Lakeview neighborhood, where he writes the blog Cooler on the Lake Shore.
CHICAGOS GOOD FOOD
FESTIVAL AND CONFERENCE
FEATURES MICHIANA
FARMERS
Michiana farms will be well represented at the 10th
annual Good Food Festival and Conference at the
University of Illinois Chicago Forum, March 1315.
Jakes Country Meats: Pork products from
pasture-raised, antibiotic-free hogs raised by
Nate and Lou Ann Robinson and other family
members on their Cassopolis, Michigan, farm,
will make a return appearance at the festival
staged by the nonproft FamilyFarmed.org.
Gunthorp Farms (LaGrange, Indiana): Pasture-
raised pork, chicken, lamb and turkey
Big Head Farm (Benton Harbor, Michigan)
Organic vegetables, fruits, herbs and fowers
Earth First Farms (Berrien Center, Michigan)
Organic apples, cider and vegetables
Joes Blues (Bangor, Michigan) Pesticide-free
blueberries
Te Good Food event begins with a fnancing and
innovation conference on Tursday, March 13, and
a trade show, school food event and policy summit
during the day on Friday.
Te Localicious food and drink tasting event is on
Friday evening, followed by the Good Food Festival
on Saturday from 9am to 5pm Central time.
For more information and to purchase tickets, visit
GoodFoodFestivals.com.
Nate Robinson and farm hands Tyler Seelye and Tyler Wyman take a cofee break.
edible Michiana Marketplace
kNl8$kl f8N$ Nl1$
f 8N f 8l $8l l 81 08l
Beef and pork available frozen by the pound or in larger
quantities by custom order according to your processing
instructions. No steroids or hormones.
To order or schedule a visit to the farm store,
call 269.756.7457 or 269.930.7458
eat.
drink.
read.
think.
edible Michiana Magazine
subscribe at ediblemichiana.com
Q&A
E
ditor Maya Parson chats with farmer Adam Derstine of
Blue Heron Farm (Millersburg, Indiana) about a com-
mon interest: bacon.
Maya Parson: When we started planning this issue, we waf ed
a bit about including a recipe for bacon. Te whole bacon thing
seems so overdone. But we couldnt resistbecause who can resist
bacon, right?
Adam Derstine: Te thing about bacon is that it is salty, fatty,
sweet and generally fried. So its peoples four favorite things
about foodand thats before you even get to any added sea-
sonings, which is why it seems to go w ith everything as well.
Pork fat is very rich, but its nearly tastelessits the vodka
of fat. Fat absorbs favors, so fatty pork belly is the perfect
vehicle to stuf full of favors.
MP: Everyone knows that bacon tastes incredible, but for folks
who dont make their own, what exactly is bacon?
AD: In the U.S., bacon is pork belly that has been cured with
salt and then smoked. Curing means that salt has removed
moisture from the meat. Bacon is usually also cured with sugar
and nitratesthe sugar prevents it from tasting too salty and
the nitrates help prevent botulism and other bacteria from
growing and also give the bacon a lot of its characteristic fa-
vor. Without all these things, pork belly just tastes like a fatty
pork chopdelicious, but nothing like bacon.
MP: You make your own bacon, from your own pigs. After all that
work, whats your favorite way to enjoy it?
AD: A friend of mine just baked a cherry pie with a bacon lat-
tice top. But I think the number one best use for bacon is to
add dimension to vegetables. A few years ago we made some
savory bacon with rosemary, thyme and bay. I did a really bad
job of slicing it, and ended up just dicing it, frying it and mak-
ing jumbo homemade bacon bits, which we added to kale,
soups, etc. And the amazing thing was how little bacon or efort it took to make the
whole pot of kale taste smoky, rich and just better.
MP: So, bacon and kale?
AD: Te Romanian term for kale is varza furageraliterally, forage cabbage, mean-
ing food for pigs, not people. In Dutch, its farmers cabbage. So before we knew
how to grow corn at scale to feed to pigs, people planted kale for pigs to forage because
it was a hearty cold weather crop. Its kind of a cool thought that the vegetable that
pigs like so much tastes so much better with some pig added.
Chewing the Fat
Edible Michiana Talks
Bacon with an Expert
Te thing
about
bacon is
that it is
salty, fatty,
sweet and
generally
fried. So
its peoples
four
favorite
things
about
food
and thats
before you
even get to
any added
seasonings.
T
hese days, you can fnd almost any-
thing bacon favoredcandy, frosting,
even toothpaste. Why not take bacon
back to its roots and make actual bacon?
Bacon will keep one to two weeks in your
fridge and six months in the freezer, but we
are betting that most of it will be enjoyed a
few hours out of the smoker.
We included two options for herbs or
spices. Once youve made it a couple of
times, experiment with your own favorites.

Serves 810
Option 1:
3 pounds pork belly, skin on
cup kosher salt
4 tablespoons brown sugar
1 tablespoon ground black peppercorns
1 clove minced garlic
1 tablespoon fresh thyme
teaspoon Instacure No. 1
Option 2:
3 pounds pork belly, skin on
cup kosher salt
4 tablespoons brown sugar
1 clove minced garlic
1 teaspoon Chinese fve spice powder
teaspoon Instacure No. 1
Place the pork belly on a large cookie or bak-
ing sheet. In a small bowl, place the other in-
gredients and mix with a spoon or fork. Use
your hands to rub the curing mixture all over
the pork belly, making sure that all surfaces
are covered. Place the belly into a large re-
sealable plastic bag or a plastic or glass con-
tainer just about large enough to contain it.
Sprinkle on the remaining cure, seal the
container and put it in the refrigerator. Leave
the bacon in the refrigerator for 5 days turning
it every other day. After 5 days, check to see
if the bacon is frm. If it is not frm all over,
return to the refrigerator for another 2 days.
Take the bacon out, rinse of the cure and
pat it dry. Set the bacon out on a rack to dry,
and return it uncovered to the refrigerator
for 1224 hours.
Take the bacon out of the refrigerator 1
hour before smoking it. You can use a grill
with a temperature gauge to smoke the meat.
Light lump charcoal and get the temperature
gauge between 170 and 200. Place about 1
cup of applewood chips on top of the char-
coal and push the coals to one side. Place the
bacon on the other side of the grill so that
the meat is getting mostly indirect heat and
lots of smoke.
Allow it to smoke for 34 hours at this
temperature, until a meat thermometer
registers 150. Remove the bacon from the
smoker/grill to a plate and allow it to rest for
about 15 minutes. While it is still warm, you
can remove the skin with a sharp knife.
Return the bacon to the refrigerator
to cool completely. After it is chilled, slice
it into -inch slices and fry as you would
regular bacon.
Adapted from a recipe by Hank Shaw
Homemade
Bacon
BY TARA SWARTZENDRUBER-LANDIS
ILLUSTRATION BY ZACH TATE
For more about making bacon at
home, including a photo tutorial,
visit EdibleMichiana.com
W
hen Edible Michiana asked me to
write about the barbecue scene in
South Bend, I set out to investigate.
My wife and I drove around on a snowy after-
noon and found ourselves at Pitts BBQ on the
corner of Twyckenham and Mishwaka Avenue.
We walked into the restaurant to fnd it empty.
My wife took a seat, and I introduced myself to
the owner, Robert Pitts. Since I had never eaten
at the place before, my wife suggested we order
a sampler. Te friendly girl behind the counter
took our money through a square hole in the wall
and within a matter of a few minutes she brought
out a Styrofoam box flled with copious amounts
of food.
As I sat there and wondered where to start,
Pitts walked out of his kitchen and peeped over
my shoulder and said, You need more, and
walked back in. Before I could say anything, he
was back with corn bread in one hand and fried
OLD SCHOOL,
AFTER SCHOOL,
ALLS COOL AT PITTS BBQ
BY DEEPAK SINGH PHOTOGRAPHY BY PETER RINGENBERG
PB edible Michiana Spring 2014
catfsh in the other. Tis time he sat down right next to me
and pointed at my food.
Tis is pulled pork, and this is beef brisket. Tis is col-
lard greens. I like to serve healthy food.
I tried the pulled pork, and it tasted like it had just
come out of a wood stove. Te meat was tender and didnt
require much chewing, but my favorite part was the sauce.
Robert Pitts is from Mobile, Alabama. When I asked
him what made him come to South Bend, Indiana, he
replied, a hurricane. His family lost their home to Hur-
ricane Frederic 1979 and Pitts moved to Michiana to live
with his father, who was already living in the area.
I asked him how he ended up opening a barbecue res-
taurant. He said, I learned to cook at the age of 7. My
grandma and dad taught me the old-fashioned way. I al-
ways loved cooking so I knew I had to do something with
it. I cooked for a few restaurants
around town, and then I opened
my own restaurant. Pitts in the
former executive chef of Bistro
on the Race in South Bend. He
has also cooked professionally at
Yesterdays, Carmelas and else-
where.
I dug in my fork into an-
other chunk of meat and said,
How long have you been run-
ning this place?
One year. I looked to my
left and saw Mr. Pitts rushing
into his kitchen, saying, I gotta
go now, kids are here.
In the next minute about
two dozen 15-year-olds flled
WHAT IS BARBECUE?
Afcionados disagree. Some say smoke and indirect heat (the low and slow
style typical of Central Texas) are essential. Others argue for the inclusion of
direct heat methods (think pit cooking over coals). Meats, cuts and season-
ings also vary from region to region and cue joint to cue joint.
One thing is certain though: Barbecue is delicious! Here are four fnger-
lickin styles you can sample across Michiana:
Texas: Slathered in a spicy tomato-based sauce with a hint of sweetness,
Texas prefers beef brisket cooked over oak or mesquite wood. For local favor:
Pitts BBQ (1526 Mishawaka Ave., South Bend, Indiana). Owner Robert
Pitts uses his grandmas zesty recipe and smokes meat with a mix of hickory
and mesquite.
Memphis: Made with pork ribs and commonly smoked over hickory, Mem-
phis BBQ is served wet (in sauce) or dry (smoked and seasoned); sauce has a
tomato and vinegar base. For local favor: Charlies Piggin N Grinnin (136
Territorial Rd., Benton Harbor, Michigan). Charlies blends Memphis and
Kansas City styles for a sweet barbecue.
Kansas City: Uses a combination of meats and woods based on regional in-
fuences and is known for its sweet sauce, often made with molasses. For local
favor: Frankies (1621 W. Washington St., South Bend, Indiana). Frankies
serves up chicken, ribs and tips cooked in a signature sauce.
Carolinas: Pork (shoulder or a whole hog) is smoked with hickory or oak
wood, chopped or pulled, then sauced with a mustard, vinegar or peppered
tomato-based sauce, depending on the region. For local favor: Culinary Mill
Market and Deli (401 E. Market St., Nappanee, Indiana) cooks their Caroli-
na-style barbecue low and slow, according to owner Brad Royer.
When we started to leave, Pitts
asked me, So, what do you
think of the food? I licked the
sauce of the fork one last time,
and said, Im coming back.
Robert Pitts, originally from
Alabama, learned to cook at the
age of 7 from his grandmother
and his father.
VARIETY IS THE SPICE OF
NEW BBQ JOINT
When the Prized Pig (Niles, Michigan) opened its
doors this past January, owner Jeremy Vohwinkle
had a problema good one. Despite heavy
snowfall, the restaurant ran out of food its frst,
second and third days of business, as hundreds of
customers poured through the door.
Te restaurant, which ofers a variety of styles
of barbecue, allows customers to pick, choose
and experiment with their meats and sauces,
said Vohwinkle, who is a certifed judge of Kan-
sas City Barbecue Society. If they like, they can
try something new, like the Texas-style brisket,
Carolina-style pulled pork, ribs with Kansas
Citystyle sauce, or any meat with Kentuckys
slathered spice.
All meat at the Prized Pig is smoked with
apple and oak wood from the Michiana area for
local favor.
Kate Stoltzfus
Te Prized Pig
33331 US 12
Niles, MI
269.262.4956
PrizedPigBBQ.com
the place. Te John Adams high school across the street had just gotten of. Te
restaurant looked very diferent all of a sudden, with students standing around eat-
ing, talking, joking and laughing. Te scene took me back to my own school days in
India. I, too, used to run across the street with my friends to a roadside food joint to
eat hot samosas after school.
I decided to ask one of the studentsMariahwhy she liked to eat at Pitts. She
said, His food is cheap, yummy, and he is just great.
Te rush from the school lasted for about 30 minutes, and when the things qui-
eted down, Pitts took me inside his kitchen. He showed me an old grill that had
hickory wood and no knobs. He told me he cooks on it every day and that he found
the equipment for his restaurant at a homeless shelter where he once worked.
Pitts treated me like I was in his home, and the school kids like his own. I noticed
him giving food for a credit to some of the students. An excellent chef and a religious
man, he also seemed to have a big heart.
When we started to leave, Pitts asked me, So, what do you think of the food? I
licked the sauce of the fork one last time, and said, Im coming back.
Pitts BBQ
1526 Mishawaka Ave.
South Bend, IN
574.232.0667
Deepak Singh was born in Lucknow, India, and has worked for the BBC World Service.
He is a freelance journalist, a radio producer and a writer based in South Bend, Indiana.
His work has been featured on NPR, the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation, World
Vision Report and Public Radio International. Visit Deepak-Singh.com or follow him on
Twitter: @deepakwriter.

Grilling over hickory wood gives Pittss pulled pork, brisket and other specialties a rich smoky favor.
T
he Fatted Calf, a nationally renowned charcuterie in
the San Francisco Bay Area, is known for producing
some of the countrys fnest meaty treats and other
wonderful pantry goods. In In the Charcuterie (Ten Speed
Press, 2013), chefs Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller give
readers a view into their establishment with a charcuterie hand-
book that is well written and easy to understandmaking it
a great choice for both home charcuterie enthusiasts and for
professional cooks looking for fresh ideas.
Te books eight chapters run the gamut from pantry items to stuf ng and tying
roasts to making intricate terrines and pts. Te frst two chapters focus on recipes for
stocking the larder with basic items that will last a long time and add a special twist
to everyday dishes. (A fantastic recipe for preserved Meyer lemons is an easy way to
brighten dishes all year round.) Recipes for rich broths and duck conft are great simple
tricks that can open the door to cooking more complex and exciting dishes. Chapters
three and four focus on raw meat preparation and butchering, including tips for bon-
ing, rolling and tying that are useful for both the amateur and pro.
Chapters fve through seven, however, really help set this book apart from many
cookbooks already on the market. Tese sections break down the most important items
found in a charcuterie, including dry sausage, salumi, fresh sausage, pts and terrines.
Te authors go into detail about each process so that readers of any skill level can at-
tempt at least one or two of the recipes.
For beginners, there are simple recipes like the Ugly Burger and rabbit rillette.Te
more experienced cook will appreciate the technical writing on fermenting and dry
curing, along with the fresh sausage conversion charts.Te books fnal chapter is flled
with recipes for side dishes and accompaniments to mix and match earlier recipes.
In the Charcuterie leaves the reader fully satisfed from both aesthetic and technical
perspectives. Filled with beautiful photos and insightful text, its a fantastic choice for
anyone interested in the meaty side of the kitchen. We like it so much we have two cop-
iesone in the shop and one at home.
Pat Mullins and his wife, Ellie, are co-owners of Local: Sustainable Foods & Cured Meats
in New Bufalo, Michigan. LocalNewBufalo.com
edible review
THE MEATY SIDE OF LIFE
Sausage Secrets Stufed into Tempting Book
REVIEW BY PAT MULLINS

o CR |, Wakaiusa, IN (|) 86-q8
FROZEN MEAT & BUTCHERING
Monday-Thuisday a-p
FRESH MEATS
Fiiday 8:o-p.n. Satuiday 8:o-noon
Artisan comfort cuisine from Italy, by
Chefs Jenny Drilon and Alberto Ilescas.
Enjoy fresh, rustic Italian fare, ne wines,
and our intimate waterfront atmosphere.
outdoor waterfront dining
dinner daily
111 W. Water Street
New Buffalo, MI
269.469.7950
TerraceRoomHG.com
Travel to Italy
by plate.
I
n Central Texas, where I hail from, when we say
brisket we are describing an Institutional Meat
Specifcation No. 120 packer cut.
Tis is usually a 10 to 12 pound piece of beef com-
prising two parts: One is a massive section of lower
front heavily used chest muscle fat. And the second, a
super fatty meat point fused together with a hard sec-
tion of fat known as the remnants of the deckle. Tere
is also a thick layer of fat covering one whole side of the
muscle group. Tis behemoth can be procured dry aged
from our friends at DC Meats on Lincolnway West in
Osceola, Indiana (see page 27 of this issue).
To the Orthodox Jewish ladies across the street from
me in South Bend, Indiana, brisket means the four-
pound trimmed lean fat that is removed from the larger
brisket.
Back home in Texas, I smoked meat outdoors year
round. Here in Michiana, Ive taken to experiment-
ing with recipes from my neighbors during the colder
months. Once the weather warms up, Ill be back out-
side using the smoking technique I know and love.
JEWISH BRISKET
Braised to Perfection
In local Orthodox recipes, the brisket is braised for two
to three hours at a medium-high heat in a liquid sea-
soned with aromatics and sweet additives such as raisins,
prunes or cranberries. Essentially, the meat is steamed
to break down the protein and turn an otherwise boot-
strap-tough muscle into falling-apart-tender goodness.
Without the liquid, the result would yield something
dry and entirely inedible. Te favor profle of this bris-
ket is largely defned through the components of the pot
liquor. Te recipe I use (opposite page) comes from the
Hebrew Orthodox Sisterhood Cookbook.
CENTRAL TEXASSTYLE SMOKED
BRISKET
Low and Slow
Te Central Texas Smoked brisket is an exercise in sim-
plicity. It is less about recipe than technique: Te meat
is favored generously with a simple rub of kosher salt
and LOTS of coarse pepper. It is then smoked at 225F.
until the internal temperature is 195 to 200. Te whole
endeavor takes about 12 hours, depending on the size of
the brisket. Te right humidity in your smoke chamber,
the constant dripping of fat and the occasional baste of
simple apple cider vinegar can ensure that your brisket
will remain moist through a 12-hour smoke.
With my ofset barbecue rig, the heat chamber con-
taining hardwood coal is separated from the cooking
chamber holding the meat. Te smoke and heat are chan-
neled through the cooker by convection, using a regulated
chimney. I fnd this gives the most fexibility in fnding
the proper temperature and smoke sweet spot.
Te smoke and heat render down the rich fats to cre-
BRISKET:
TWO
WAYS
Whether Lone Star
or Star of David,
Tis Cut Shines
BY WILLIAM JACKSON
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
PETER RINGENBERG
Inside a
deep red
smoke ring
permeates
the fesh,
creating an
intense favor
that triggers
the carnivore
receptor in
the brain. Its
like youve
never eaten
beef until you
tasted it. It
is that damn
good.
Transplanted Texan William Jackson makes brisket magic overnight in his backyard in
South Bend, weather permitting. When its too cold, he braises it, Jewish-style.
ate that amazing bark (the smoky-sweet caramelized outer layer)
typical of Central Texas barbecue. Inside a deep red smoke ring per-
meates the fesh, creating an intense favor that triggers the carnivore
receptor in the brain. Its like youve never eaten beef until you tasted
it. It is that damn good.
If youre not ready to try this at home, Pitts Barbecue (1526 Mish-
awaka Ave., South Bend, Indiana) ofers a Texas-style brisket using
just the fats, resulting in a leaner but still tasty barbecue. (I also rec-
ommend his rib tips, which are outstanding). (For more about Pitts,
see page 52 of this issue.)
THE MAGIC OF THE BRISKET
When done right, brisket is magic. Te Hebrew Orthodox Sisterhood
here in South Bend and the cowboys on the LBJ Ranch in Llano,
Texas, both understood something intrinsic about the lowly chest
muscle: time and sweetness. Tender love will follow.
William Jackson is an architect and a transplanted Texan. He lives in
South Bend, Indiana.
Sweet and Sour Brisket
Adapted from a recipe by Joyce Mishkin
Recipe originally published in the Hebrew Orthodox Sisterhood
Cookbook. Used with permission.
Serves 68
23 pounds brisket
2 onions, sliced
1 bay leaf
3 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 cups boiling water
cup white raisins or whole Black Mission fgs
teaspoon salt
teaspoon pepper
1 tablespoon cornstarch
Place the brisket in a heavy pot. Put the onions, bay leaf, sugar, apple
cider vinegar, boiling water, white raisins or fgs, salt and pepper into
the pot. Bring to a simmer, cover and cook for about 1 hours. Re-
move the meat and slice it. Return the meat to the pot and continue
cooking for another 1 hours, until the meat is tender.
When the meat is done, remove it from the pan along with the on-
ions and fruit. Place it all on a plate. Remove cup of the hot broth
from the pan, add the cornstarch and whisk together until it is no
longer lumpy and has begun to thicken. Return this gravy to the pan
and whisk into the rest of the broth. Allow this mixture to cook for
710 minutes, until it has thickened slightly. Add the meat, fruit and
onions back to the gravy. Allow the meat to heat through and serve.
Decisions made locally every day
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RAISING AN ANIMAL
FOR EATING
By Hannah Rowe
Te hardest part about raising animals is
taking them to market. Tis means loading
them on the trailer for the trip to the meat
processor. Te frst beef we took to the pro-
cessor was practically my baby. His name
was Rock-On. Rock-On was 7 months
old when we bought him and his mother.
When I walked out in the pasture, Rock-
On would come up to me and rub his head
against my side to say, Scratch me.
When it was fnally time to take him to the butcher, he would not
get on the trailer for my parents. So after an hour, I went out to the
pasture to see what was taking so long. My parents said they couldnt
get him on the trailer, and so I looked at him and said, Rock-On,
get on the trailer. And, thats just what he did! We were all surprised!
When we arrived at the butcher, I cried for a minute and then
remembered that we didnt raise him to keep as a pet. A few weeks
later, we picked up the packages of beef and cooked some hamburgers
and New York strip steaks immediately. At frst I refused to take one
bite. Finally, I tried the hamburger to give my opinion whether this
grass-fed Red Poll beef tasted good enough to sell to our customers. It
was good. I didnt feel guilty about eating Rock-On because I kept in
perspective that he was raised for meat.
With more people living in cities than on farms, people are de-
TASTE THE LIFE THAT
SUSTAINS YOU
By Lisa Harris
I remember living out here, on the east
side of South Bend, Indiana, when our
neighborhood was practically surrounded
by farms. Tere were no malls, multiplex
theaters or big-box stores. Tere were just farmsand a big slaugh-
terhouse where we went to buy our sides of beef. Te building still sits
there, of of Grape Road. Its a big white brick structure, crumbling
under the weight of neglect. Crowded out by the numerous stores and
busy traf c, of people rushing to fnd some fast food they can gulp
down before they realize what theyre eating so they can hurry of to
buy more stuf somewhere else.
I mourn the loss of knowing the animals we eat. Food has been
disguised and reconfgured to be ambiguous and user friendly. Ev-
erything seems to have the same texture and magnifed favors that
keep people wanting more, craving more. No one wants to know that
this strip or nugget contains the fesh of an animal. Its too terrifying
to consider. Its too close to homeor maybe not close enough.
I regard eating meat as a privilegea privilege to feed myself with
an animal that was bred, raised and killed for the purpose of keeping
me alive. I love meat and always have, in spite of my struggle to come
to terms with how poorly so many animals are treated. Teir brief
lives are subject to the whims of their caretakers. Te least we can do is
realize this and insist that they be raised in a humane manner, allowed
to express their bovine-ness, chicken-ness or pig-ness.
Because of this, I prefer to prepare meat myself so I know where
it came from, what it was fed, how it was treated, and appreciate the
nuances it may pose in the cooking pot or on my plate.
So I suggest to you: Open yourself up and appreciate what these
creatures are giving you as they go about their grazing. Its the least
you can do. And try to notice the wonderful range of favors and tex-
tures that are expressed by these individual animals. Tey really dont
all taste the same.
Lisa Harris is a free-range chef, freelance writer and educator who loves
to share her passion for local, seasonal and sustainable foods. She recently
moved back to South Bend to be near her family after spending 15 years
in Vermont.
food for thought
THE MEAT WE EAT
Tree Writers Refect on
Eating Animals
I
n these essays, a chef, a former vegetarian and a young farmer gently remind
us that the pleasures of meat also bring sacrifces and responsibility.
tached from their source of food. Tey have no connection to the animal that is raised
for their dinner table. Tey have forgotten that an animals life is sacrifced to provide
food.
Being aware of where the meat we eat comes from reminds me every day that we
have to give our animals the best life possible.
Hannah Rowe is a 13-year-old home school student who has been raising livestock with her
parents for three years at Grass is Greener Farm in Bremen, Indiana. She is a member of the
German Township 4-H Club in Marshall County. In her free time, Hannah plays frst base
and pitcher on her travel softball team, the Michiana Lady Scrappers.
COMING OUT: A (FORMER) VEGETARIANS TALE
By Leah Schroeder
It started with a lamb burger.
Not just any lamb burger, but
one made from an animal
that my friends had lovingly
raised and butchered them-
selves. It was my frst bite of
meat in over 12 years.
I became a vegetarian be-
cause I saw our ecosystems
being destroyed by our
overconsumption of meat. I
raised my son, who is now 9,
as a vegetarian from birth. It
wasnt always convenient
he could never eat school
lunch, and I usually had to pack something for him to take to birthday parties, but it
felt healthy and good for our planet.
In the last couple of years, though, I have been lucky enough to become part of a
circle of friends that includes small-scale farmers. We like to get together to eat and
there is always meat at these gatherings. But not just any meatpastured meat that
my friends raise on their farms. And boy, it is delicious! Our potlucks rival most fne
dining, in my opinion.
Why should this make a diference? For me, its because the kind of small-scale in-
tensive farming my friends practice minimizes the risks of water pollution, eliminates
over-grazing and protects the integrity of the local ecology as much as possible. And,
the food that these local farmers provide stays right in the community; it doesnt rely
on extensive fossil fuels for transportation across the country. Tey raise their animals
with respect for the animals and the environment.
Troughout this last year, we have changed the way we interact with food at our
house. For a while, I tried hiding my meat eating from my son, Oliver. He soon dis-
covered my new diet and wanted to participate. We still eat a lot of vegetarian meals,
but have included some new favorite recipes, made with meat from local farms. At 9,
I feel that my son is old enough the see the moral responsibility we have as consumers
and inhabitants of this planet. I do not regret raising my son as a vegetarian. His palate
is more refned than most adults and he can identify his fruits and vegetables like a pro.
I am still a supporter of a plant-based diet. I am also an advocate of eating humanely
raised local meat. Here in the United States, we have the luxury of choosing how we
eat. So lets think before we chew.
Leah Schroeder is an artist and a youth advocate who spends her time ensconced with books
at the Goshen Public Library. She lives in Goshen, Indiana, with her family.
Illustration by Kathleen Petitjean. Photo of Lisa Harris courtesy of Lisa Harris. Photo of
Hannah Rowe by Ashley Swartzendruber. Photo of Leah Schroeder by Maya Parson.
Currently showing on PBS Television
Check Your Local Listings or go to ediblefeast.com
presents
www.ediblecommunities.com
GROCERY STORES
Apple Valley Natural Foods
9067 U.S. 31, Berrien Springs, MI

269.471.3131 | avnf.com
5618 Grape Road, Mishawaka, IN
574.243.0800
Bambers Superette
1145 Mishawaka Ave., South Bend, IN

574.287.1871 | Find on Facebook
Grandmas Pantry
201 Keystone Dr., Wakarusa, IN

574.862.1959
Maple City Market
314 S. Main St., Goshen, IN

574.534.2355 | maplecitymarket.com
Whole Foods

4230 Grape Road, Mishawaka, IN
574.247.5800 | wholefoodsmarket.com/
stores/mishawaka
SPECIALTY FOOD
PURVEYORS
Bit of Swiss
4333 Ridge Rd., Stevensville, MI

269.429.1661 | bitofswiss.com
12850 SR 23, Granger, IN
Martins Supermarket)
574.807.8220 ext. 2531
BreadIts In The Bag, Inc.
26241 CR 40, Goshen, IN

574.862.4146 | breaditsinthebag.com
Charlies Butcher Block
1900 Berry St., Elkhart, IN

574.264.6034 | charliesbutcherblock.com
Dana Js Deli & Fine Meats
231 Chicago Ave., Goshen, IN

574.533.3354 | danajsdeli.com
DC Meats
1711 Lincolnway West, Osceola IN

574.674.2333 | dcmeats.net
Down To Earth Natural Foods
14678 SR 23 East, Granger, IN

574.271.1497 | downtoearthindiana.com
J2K Capraio Handcrafted Cheese/Oh
Mammas Italian Deli
1212 Beyer Ave., South Bend, IN

574. 276.6918 | Find on Facebook
Local New Bufalo
424 E. Bufalo St., New Bufalo, MI

269.231.5138 | localnewbufalo.com
Martins Custom Butchering
27570 CR 42 Wakarusa, IN
574.862.2982
Matterns Butcher Shop & Corner Deli

574.971.8906 | matternsmeatsanddeli.com
Olive Branch
1003 E. Canal St., Winona Lake, IN
225 Toscana Blvd., Granger, IN
Auction Barn & Flea Market, Shipshewana, IN

(Produce Isle) | theolivebranchinc.net
Olive Cart
421 State St., St. Joseph, MI
269.277.5051 | olivecart.com
424 Phoenix Road, South Haven, MI
269.537.4754
Spice Merchants
574.267.7717 | spicemerchants.biz
Yoders Meat & Cheese Company
435 S. Van Buren St., Shipshewana, IN

260.768.4715 | yodersmeatshoppe.com
BOOKS, EDUCATION &
NONPROFITS
Edible Grande Traverse magazine
ediblegrandetraverse.com
Edible WOW magazine
ediblewow.com
Fernwood Botanical Gardens
13988 Range Line Road, Niles, MI

269.695.0744 | fernwoodbotanical.org

FARMS, FARMERS
MARKETS & CSAs
Bertrand Farm
3574 W. Bertrand Rd., Niles, MI

bertrandfarm.org
Advertiser Directory
1be.e bv.ive..e. offer .ove of Micbiava`. fve.t oca, .ea.ova ava .v.taivabe roavct., ava tbe,
.toc i..ve. of Edible Michiana. Pea.e .vort tbev b, v.ivg tbi. va to .bo, aive ava eore.
MICHIGAN CITY
LaPorte
NEW BUFFALO
ST. JOSEPH
BENTON HARBOR
SOUTH HAVEN
COLOMA
DOWAGIAC
MISHAWAKA
EDWARDSBURG
SOUTH BEND
NOTRE DAME
NEW CARLISLE
STEVENSVILLE
BUCHANAN
ELKHART
OSCEOLA
WARSAW
MILLERSBURG
WAKARUSA
BREMEN
GRANGER
FORT WAYNE
PLYMOUTH
NORTH LIBERTY
MIDDLEBURY
SHIPSHEWANA
GOSHEN
NAPPANEE
BRISTOL
LaGRANGE
SYRACUSE
NORTH WEBSTER
CASSOPOLIS
BERRIEN
SPRINGS
BARODA
NILES
SAWYER
UNION
LEESBURG
WINONA LAKE
THREE
OAKS
HARBERT
BRIDGMAN
UNION PIER
edible
MICHIANA
Blue Star Produce
14393 Madron Lake Road., Buchanan, MI
269.697.0231 | bluestarproduce.com
Clay Bottom Farm
11434 CR 34 Goshen, IN
574.538.8741 | claybottomfarm.com
Fish Lake Organic Berry Patches
(at the Goshen Farmers Market)
62801 E. County Line Rd. Goshen, IN
574.642.3014 Ext. 2
Granor Farm
3480 Warren Woods Road, Three Oaks, MI
269.944.6456 | granorfarm.com
Grass Is Greener Meats & Produce
2760 4C Rd., Bremen, IN
574.209.6371 | grassfedinbremen.com
Green Spirit Farms
18300 US Highway 12, New Bufalo, MI
312.473.4730 | greenspiritfarms.com
Goshen Farmers Market
212 W. Washington St., Goshen, IN
574.533.4747 | goshenfarmersmarket.org
Heritage Pastures Natural Farm
1240 E. 075 LaGrange, IN
heritagepastures@yahoo.com | hpastures.com
Jakes Country Meats
55721 Decatur Rd., Cassopolis, MI
269.445.3020 | jakescountrymeats.com
Kaminski Farms
16682 South Schwark Rd., Three Oaks, MI
269.756.7457 | kaminskifarms.com
Lehmans Orchard
2280 Portage Road, Niles MI
269.683.9878 | lehmansorchard.com
Middlebrook Farm
6678 Forest Lawn Rd., Three Oaks, MI
269.756.9778 | middlebrookfarm.net
Purple Porch Co-op
1302 High St., South Bend, IN
574.274.9889 | purpleporchcoop.com
GREEN SERVICES/
HEALTH & WELLNESS
Dutch Cleaning Service
58190 CR 29, Goshen, IN
574.537.0997 | dutchcleaning.com
Schneider Clinic P.C.
1178 Fremont Ct., Elkhart, IN
574.293.7000 | schneiderclinic.com
REAL ESTATE,
CONSTRUCTION,
HOME & GARDEN
Center of the World Woodshop
13400 Red Arrow Highway, Harbert, MI
259.469.5687 | centeroftheworld.net
D. Mottl Realty Group, LLC
258 Front Street, Buchanan, MI
Nelsons Herbs
65391 Dailey Rd., Edwardsburg, MI
269.663.8164 | nelsonsherbs.net
Octopot Gardens
70877 Sunset Blvd., Union, MI
855.OCTOPOT | octopotgardens.com
Reliance Construction
201 S. Main St., Nappanee, IN
574.773.4308 | relianceconstruction.net
Tryon Farm
1500 Tryon Road, Michigan City, IN
800.779.6433 | tryonfarm.com
Uncle Pauls Gardens
404 Olive St., Goshen, IN
RESTAURANTS, CAFES &
CATERERS
523 Tap & Grill
523 S. Main St. Elkhart, IN
574.523.1523 | 523tapandgrill.com
Bentwood Tavern
600 W. Water St., New Bufalo, MI
269.469.1699 | bentwoodtavern.com
The Boulevard Inn & Bistro
521 Lake Blvd., St. Joseph, MI
269.983.3882 | theboulevardinn.com
bread + bar
645 Riverview Dr., Benton Harbor, MI
260.757.7219 | breadbarbh.com
Bread & Chocolate
@ The Old Bag Factory, Goshen, IN
574.533.9876 | breadandchocolate.com
Cerulean
574.269.1226 | ceruleanrestaurant.com
Constant Spring
574.533.3302 | aconstantspring.com
Davids Delicatessen & Cofee
30 N. Whittaker St., New Bufalo, MI
The Electric Brew
118 E. Washington St. &
574.533.5990 | theelectricbrew.com
Light Rail Caf and Roaster
1000 Park Ave. Winona Lake, IN
Luisas Cafe
13698 Red Arrow Highway, Harbert, MI
269.469.9037 | luisascafe.com
Main Street Roasters/Cofee House
105 N. Main St., Nappanee, IN
574.773.5333 | mainstreetroasters.com
102 N. Main St., South Bend, IN
574.232.5333
Miles Lab
3763 East Jackson Blvd., Elkhart, IN
574.294.6000 | themileslab.com
Olfactory Hue Bistro
226 E. Main St., Niles, MI
269.687.0880 | olfactoryhue.com
Soda Dog Drive In
171 Highway 212, Michigan City, IN
219.872.7632 | sodadog.com
Spire Farm to Fork Restaurant
299 W. Johnson Rd., LaPorte, IN
219.575.7272 | spirefarmtofork.com
Stop 50 Wood Fired Pizzaria
500 S. Portal Dr., Michiana Shores, IN
219.879.8777 | stop50woodfredpizzaria.com
The Taharaa Room
(at Noa Noa Wood Grill & Sushi Bar)
310 Eastlake Dr., Warsaw, IN
574.372.3224
The Terrace Room
111 W. Water St., New Bufalo, MI
269.469.7950 | terraceroomhg.com
Union Cofee House & Cafe
115 E. Front St., Buchanan, MI

260.409.7004 | unioncofeehouse.com
WINERIES, DISTILLERIES,
TASTING ROOMS &
EQUIPMENT
Fruit Hills Winery & Orchard
55503 S.R. 15, Bristol, IN
574.848.9463 | fruithillswinery.com
Journeyman Distillery
109 Generations Dr., Three Oaks, MI
269.820.2050 | journeymandistillery.com
Quality Wine & Ale Supply
108 S. Elkhart Ave., Elkhart, IN
574.295.9975 | homebrewit.com
SPECIALTY STORES,
GALLERIES & WEBSITES
Dog E. Style
324 E. Dewey St, Ste 107, Buchanan, MI

269. 591.0036
Found
208 S. Main St. Goshen, IN

574.534.4394 | graberfound.com
Goertzen Pottery
1100 N. Chicago Ave., Goshen, IN
574.534.1162 | goertzenpottery.com
The Potters Wife
111 W. Michigan St., New Carlisle, IN

773.318.9161 | blacktreestudio.com
The Sandpiper
4217 Lake St., Bridgman, MI
269.465.5936 | thesandpiper.biz
Ten Thousand Villages
574.533.8491 | tenthousandvillages.com/
goshen
214 Cleveland Rd. Granger, IN
574.277.4900 | tenthousandvillages.com/
mishawaka
Threadbenders Quilt Shop
906 Franklin St., Michigan City, IN
219.229.7845 | threadbendersquilts.com

FINANCIAL
INSTITUTIONS
New Bufalo Savings Bank
45 N. Whittaker St., New Bufalo MI
269.469.2222 | newbufalosavings.com
EVENTS/COMMUNITIES
DeBartolo Performing Arts Center
574.631.2800 | performingarts.nd.edu
Farm to Table Dinner Auction
574.773.2149 | fcdcin.org
Granger Restaurant Week
grangerrestaurantweek.com
Greening The Bend
greeningthebend.org
GreenTown Michiana
greentownconference.com
Ivy Tech Culinary Dinner
574.289.7001, ext. 6364 | ivytech.edu/

northcentral/culinarydinner.html
Kosciusko County CVB
koscvb.org
the last bite
Standing in a foot-high swell of snout and tail, I pretend
to know which piglets will make good pigs. As I point
the Amish boy dives into the muscled lot, comes up
with one leg hooked, piglet thrashing. I nod,
and back hoofs in hand he wheelbarrows each
squealing shoat to the trailer until it is full.
From the other side of a metal gate, she paces, watches.
When we fnish and I fnally let my eyes rest
on her, she is lupinenothing like the rounded,
ruddied hogs her brood will become. Hackle of bristles
at her nape, long snout lined with teeth. Te fence
groans as she thrusts her weight against it, but she owns
the loose, long-legged ranginess of an animal
stretched by hunger or grief. Back home, raw
sunlight will bleach the grass, piglets nosing
their new pasture, turning up steaming soil, their senses
brimmed with fresh earth and all its gifts. I wish,
like them, I could fll my mind with abundance, forget
the single swollen teat that hung from her belly,
two weeks weaned.
Elise Hofer Derstine lives in Goshen, Indiana, where she is a freelance writer and co-owner of
Blue Heron Farm, a pasture-based livestock farm that raises chickens, sheep, pigs and cattle.
THE SOW
BY ELISE HOFER DERSTINE
P
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b
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J
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Yoders Meat & Cheese Company
ONLY IN SHIPSHEWANA
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435 S. Van Buren Street ( State Route 5) Shipshewana, IN 46565
260.768.4713 - yodersmeatandcheese.com
Hours: Mon.-Fri. 8:00 - 5:30 Saturday 8:00 - 5:00 Closed Sunday
0.er 100 ||aJs el t|eese

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Member of Edible Communities

Member of Edible Communities Member of Edible Communities

early spring 2014 issue 12

58 edible Michiana early spring 2014

9067 U.S. 31, Berrien Springs, MI

1145 Mishawaka Ave., South Bend, IN

201 Keystone Dr., Wakarusa, IN

314 S. Main St., Goshen, IN

4333 Ridge Rd., Stevensville, MI

26241 CR 40, Goshen, IN

1900 Berry St., Elkhart, IN

231 Chicago Ave., Goshen, IN

1711 Lincolnway West, Osceola IN

14678 SR 23 East, Granger, IN

1212 Beyer Ave., South Bend, IN

424 E. Bufalo St., New Bufalo, MI

201 S. Main St., Goshen, IN

225 Toscana Blvd., Granger, IN

201 S. Main St., Goshen, IN

Auction Barn & Flea Market, Shipshewana, IN

435 S. Van Buren St., Shipshewana, IN

13988 Range Line Road, Niles, MI

3574 W. Bertrand Rd., Niles, MI

115 E. Front St., Buchanan, MI

324 E. Dewey St, Ste 107, Buchanan, MI

208 S. Main St. Goshen, IN

111 W. Michigan St., New Carlisle, IN

574.289.7001, ext. 6364 | ivytech.edu/

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