The Home Handyman - January 2014

Enter the Maktec/Makita Make a Kitchen Gadget Competition
The Home
January 2014 Vol 21 No 1
R32.00 (incl VAT)
Construction options
Pumps and lters
Step-by-step guide
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LIGHT UP YOUR HOME
INSTALL NEW GUTTERS
Beautiful
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Planning to build?
All the important facts
before you start any
building alterations
plus
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Enter the Maktec/Makita Make a Kitchen Gadget Competition
THE HOME HANDYMAN JANUARY 2014 111
The Home Handyman is published by Home Handyman
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PO Box 650484, Benmore 2010
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email: editorial@homehandyman.co.za
Tel: 011-462-5645
Fax: 011-704-3962
Publisher: Allan Swart
Associate publisher: Michelle Funke
Editor: Johann Stadler
Assistant editor: Roelof Strydom
Sub-editors: Lynne Yates, Loren Shirley-Carr
Feature writers: Gina Hartoog, Andre Gous,
Lynne Yates, Loren Shirley-Carr
Editorial consultants: Sharl Bennie, Denis Lock,
Bruwer Leykauf
Photography: Loren Shirley-Carr
Layout & design: Rosemary Johnston-Fitch
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email: editorial@homehandyman.co.za
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email: debbie@homehandyman.co.za
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The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the publisher
or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its
contents, neither the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any
omissions or errors. Every care has been taken to ensure that all the information
and projects presented in this publication are accurate, reliable and safe. It should
be noted, however, that the ideas for designs and product use are presented as
suggestions only. The editor strongly advises that the reader check local by-laws
and consult a qualified professional before undertaking any project and cannot
be held responsible for any loss, damage, injury or death resulting from any
information contained here.
The Home Handyman, 1994. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be
reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical,
including photocopying, recording, or any information storage or retrieval system
without prior permission from the publisher.
www.homehandyman.co.za
Johann Stadler, Editor Roelo Strydom,
Asiant Editor
I
t is a new year and although I wrote this before many of us went away, I
am hopeful you are all well rested and ready for 2014 and the challenges it
might throw at you.
I dont know about you, but last year really flew by for me. I was just
getting into the groove of things and suddenly we were talking 2014 in the
boardroom and what do you know here it is!
I want to take this opportunity to bring you the good news that our
assistant editor Roelof Strydom was recently married to a lovely lady, Alta.
Their wedding was particularly good fun unfortunately I have no pictures
to share of him or his bride dancing on a table as that didnt happen but to
them from The Home Handyman team (see picture on p57), may this be the
start of only good things.
On a more formal note, a few things will change in the magazine this
year. We have planned a few interactive competitions and lots of prize
giveaways for starters. Please visit our website too as it was recently
renovated to make it more user friendly with added articles and other
benefits.
Also remember to enter the Maktec/Makita Make a Kitchen Gadget
competition. Once again, Maktec/Makita has sponsored many prizes not
only are there two R10 000 tool vouchers up for grabs, but lots of other tools
and goodies too. Find more details on page 17.
Enjoy the first issue of The Home Handyman for 2014 and once again,
Happy New Year!
EDITORS NOTE
Happy New Year!
JANUARY 2014 THE HOME HANDYMAN 2
CONTENTS
FEATURES
Competitions & giveaways
12 Natural beauty
Turn your garden into a haven for wildlife by creating your own natural pond
18 Making plans
Before you can build on to your home, you need to have plans drawn up. Heres
what to consider
22 Building blocks
Choose the right bricks for your building project
26 Why paint fails prematurely
Find out why paint fails and how to fix and prevent it
30 Tool talk
A look at six circular saws that will turn any sheet of wood into usable pieces
in no time
32 The Home Handyman 2013 index
Looking for a particular feature covered in 2013? This handy reference will guide
you to the right issue
34 Decking pleasure
What to consider when planning a deck as well as maintenance tips for new and
existing decks
38 Look on the bright side
Light up your home effectively and efficiently
42 Replacing your gutters
Advice on choosing the right gutters for your home
46 Table restoration
Willie Koekemoer gives an old battered dining room table a new lease on life
50 Woodworkers diary
Denis Lock describes how to cut a finger joint
WIN a Makita GA9020K Angle Grinder ............................7
WIN a Bosch PSR 14.4V Li-2 Toolbox .............................11
WIN a 32-piece 3-12mm tap and die set ................... 49
18
42
34
26
Cover
Garden designed by Karen Gardelli
REGULARS
4 Off the shelf
All the latest products for the DIYer
6 Voice your views
Your chance to air an opinion
8 DIY matters
News, views and reviews from around the globe
10 Ask our experts
Your DIY queries answered by our panel of experts
49 Bright ideas
Readers share their DIY ideas and projects
54 Woodworkers corner
A look at events in the woodworking calendar and an opportunity
for readers to showcase their work
62 Subscriptions
Save by subscribing to The Home Handyman and win great prizes
64 Tailpiece
Reuben the Screwman tries to build a fish pond
22
46 30
38
12
JANUARY 2014 THE HOME HANDYMAN
OFF THE SHELF Your guide to the latest products in the world of do-it-yourself
Lighting the way
The Energizer HDL33A Headlight is the perfect hands-free light
provider for camping trips or even for when your electricity
provider decides it is time for the lights to go out.
Bright Nichia LED technology, 18 lumens
Lifetime LED bulbs practically never
need replacing
Three LED bulbs: Two white and
one red
Two light modes: Night vision
and flood
Hands-free: Light where you
need it without having to
hold it
Swivel and tilt adjustment
aims light
Comfortable elastic head strap
Slide button on/off switch
Runtime is approximately
30 hours on flood, per set
of batteries
Clean it up
Norton recently
launched the Beartex
2-pack in South Africa
a shrink-wrapped pack of
two Beartex hand-sized
abrasive pads. The green
pad is used for cleaning and
scouring metal surfaces, such
as pots and pans. The maroon
pad can be used for removing
old polish and cleaning metals,
as well as for removing old paint
flaking off metal or wood surfaces
and cleaning surface rust
from metal surfaces. Both
the pads are washable
and reusable.
For more information
Visit: www.norton.eu
Tel: 011-961-2000
Strong bond
A new addition to Pratleys adhesive range
is Pratley Powda Bond. This DIY adhesive is
an instant repair system that can be used
as either a two-component or a single
adhesive. It cures very fast and can be
used to build up thick sections or fill gaps
on repair jobs.
The kit contains a special-grade,
liquid adhesive and specially formulated
black and white powder fillers. The bond
cures within seconds and its formulation
ensures good penetration of the adhesive
through the powder filler and onto
the substrate. A great way to see the
products good powder penetration is
by adhering an item to a transparent
substrate like Perspex.
Once cured, Powda Bond can be painted, sanded or filed and
can be exposed to water. It also performs well on certain difficult
plastics. Some suggested Powda Bond repairs include damaged
car bumpers, cracked
pipes, damaged television
remotes and swimming
pool pump valves.
Visit: www.pratley.com
Tel: 011-955-2190
Drill, drive, done!
The Kreg Pocket Hole Jig allows you to quickly and easily make
wooden joints. The system works with your own drill to bore
out pocket holes in your workpiece. Because only one of the two
pieces is machined, there is no need for measuring. The stainless
steel collets are positioned at the optimal angle to guarantee
the strength of the join. Once your pocket holes are cut, simply
position the two pieces of wood to be joined. By using your drill
again, the Kreg self-tapping screws are driven into position to
complete the join. No need for
time-consuming clamping or
the frustrating wait for glue
to set.
Visit: www.vermontsales.co.za
Tel: 011-314-7711
Visit: www.vermontsales.co.za
Tel: 011-314-7711
4
THE HOME HANDYMAN JANUARY 2014
Specifications
Model: DS 200
Motor induction: 230V, 50Hz
Input: 80W
Grinding wheel : Diamond
Weight approx: 2kg
No-load speed: 17 000rpm
Sharpening capacity: 1.5-13mm
Price R820
Super sharp
The Woodster Diamond Drill Sharpener
DS 200 is ideal for the professional DIY
user, small contractor and workshop. It is
easy to use and requires very little skill to
sharpen drill bits. It comes with a complete
kit with spare diamond wheel, as well as
a cleaning kit. It has a diamond wheel for
accuracy and longer life. The sharpener is
only for HSS and masonry drill bits.
Early detection
Before drilling into a wall at home, use
the advanced Bosch PMD 10 Detector
to swiftly and accurately identify power
cables, metals and drywall constructions
thereby eliminating the risk of
personal injury or damaging important
infrastructure features such as water
pipes and power cables.
The detection depth of the tool is
10cm for ferrous metals, 8cm for non-
ferrous metals, 5cm for power cables
and 2.5cm for wooden and drywall
substructures.
The user-friendly detector has an
integrated handle that enables the user
to comfortably guide the tool over the desired drill position
before alerting the user to a positive search result by emitting
an audible signal and
changing the colour of
its luminous ring. The
detection result can be
read graphically on the
illuminated display.

Visit: www.bosch-do-it.co.za
Tel: 011-651-9600
Visit: www.newcopowertools.co.za
Tel: 011-315-1504
Lock damp away
A. Shak Damploc is a waterproof coating used for combating the effects of rising and penetrating
damp on interior and exterior surfaces. It is suitable for use on concrete brick and cement-based
plaster, but not for use on gypsum-based plasters.
Follow these tips:
Apply Damploc to a clean surface; the surface can be damp, but not wet.
Remove all old paint from the surface and sand down any hard, impervious surfaces
to form a key.
Wash the surface with a sugar soap or degreaser before
applying Damploc and rinse well with clean water.
Remove any soft plaster or brick and repair or replaster.
Prime any cracks with Damploc before repairing.
Visit: www.ashak.co.za
Tel: 0861-127-425
Reduce chlorine consumption
Clinobrite is a direct substitute
for pool filter sand that saves
you money by scavenging
unwanted ammonia from
pool water, thereby reducing
your swimming pool chlorine
consumption. It is a filter
medium with both ion
exchange and superior micro-
filtration properties.
Unlike ordinary filter sand,
the surfaces of Clinobrite grains
are not smooth. Clinobrite
grains attract and trap
extremely fine dirt particles
and algae on their rough
surfaces and not just between the grains like ordinary sand. In
practise, a Clinobrite pool filter can remove 40-50% more physical
dirt than sand filtration. It can also filter out much smaller particle
sizes than sand. This greatly
improves the clarity of your
pool water and gives much
longer service cycles between
backwash operations.
Visit: www.clinobrite.co.za
Tel: 011-955-2190
5
VOICE YOUR VIEWS Do you have any thoughts or comments on issues of DIY?
When lightning strikes
Dear The Home Handyman, I read your articles with interest, especially the ones on
renewable energy. I see there is a lot of investment going into wind and solar energy. This
made me think: Why dont the guys in white coats invest their energy (excuse the pun) in
ways to harvest electricity from lightning?
Christo du Toit, Port Elizabeth
Ed replies: Although we have never thought of this topic as an idea for an article,
it is a very interesting question and it got me curious too. So I read up a bit
and, in short, this should answer your question:
Most places receive lightning very infrequently, but have a steady demand for
electrical energy. The smaller the area you look at, the fewer the lightning strikes that
hit within that area per unit time.
Secondly, lightning has a high voltage, but not a huge amount of current.
Controlled sources of electrical energy typically need it the other way around lots of
current at lower voltages. Consumers can use 120VAC, and they want a steady supply
of it. Voltage and phase should not drift over time. Lightning can give you tens of
thousands of volts over a few milliseconds and then be gone.
Source: Department of Physics, University of Illinois
I bought an old house in Warden with wooden
floors, which I decided to lift and tile over
a period of time. This past weekend I
decided it was the kitchens turn.
On Friday night I pulled out all
the nails to make life easier the
next day for my two helpers.
Early on Saturday
morning they arrived and
got ready to start lifting
the floorboards. Now I had
already removed four or
so boards in my eagerness
to start. Little did I realise that
the method they use is for one
to stand inside the hole, already
there, and one to stand with
legs spread over the board to be
removed. They would both then
jerk the board up to pull it out, nails
and all.
I watched them getting ready, completely forgetting
I had already removed the nails. They gave the first
board one huge jerk and as there were no nails, no
resistance, the board flew up nailing the guy on top
in a place where no cricketer wants to be bowled. His
eyes grew bigger and bigger, and as hard as he tried
not to, tears started flowing down his face. The one in
the hole let go some Zulu words I do not know, but they
did not sound like kind words. The guy standing on top
slowly fell over forward into the hole where the boards
had already been removed by me, leaving only his feet
sticking out.
My wife, hearing all this commotion, turned up,
gave everything one look and chased me out. About
half an hour later she came to me laughing like crazy.
When I disgustingly enquired what was so funny, she
remarked that they wanted danger pay or they would
leave. I declined and they left. As Warden is a small town
and news spreads fast, I could not find any more help
in town, leaving me to do it all by myself. Needless to
say, the project is going to take much longer now and I
have decided to get a contractor to do it for me until the
stage where the floor is filled, has a cement slab and
is tiled.
AC Muller, Warden
Winning letter
This months winning letter
comes from AC Muller who
wins a Makita 5704RK
Circular Saw
He nailed it!
WINNING
LETTER
Share your
opinion
Send us your views, ideas and opinions addressed to
The Home Handyman:
Email: editorial@homehandyman.co.za
Fax: 011-704-3962
By mail: PO Box 650484, Benmore 2010
Letters may be edited for length and clarity
A Makita GA9020K Angle Grinder
Please note: Winners prizes
may take up to six weeks for
delivery once the issue is on
the shelf.
A
W
IN
!
Tool conundrum
I have been buying The Home Handyman magazine since I was
about 16 years old. I have seen a lot of different projects and
articles in the magazine and have experienced a lot of joy out of
reading it.
These days there are so many new tools and machines
on the market and I would love to see an article where you
compare tools and then have a section on where we can buy
these tools. Yes, I know that you have had articles in the past
that compare tools, but they dont really tell me which one to
buy. There are, of course, factors such as the tools features and
its price, but if you could tell me which power tool is the best
value for my money, it would be a great help. I have bought a
few tools and thought I was buying the best for my money, but
later found out there is a better one. This is not limited to tools;
the same goes for wood glues, sealers, varnish, hand tools etc.
I would also like a comparison between the different models
of the same manufacturer; for example, Makita has so many 18V
cordless drills, but which one is the best? We read the magazine
to make informed decisions. Articles like this would give us an
idea about what to buy. I can then decide what is best for me.
Currently I have to guess and hope it is the right one.
A couple of years back I wanted a router. The two options I
could afford were from Bosch and Black & Decker. I bought the
Black & Decker one, but found it not as good as it is very plastic.
If Id had an experts opinion on which one to buy, I would not
have bought the wrong one and would have bought the Bosch,
or saved another month and bought a Metabo.
Another thing to consider is where these tools can be
bought. I usually go to Game, which does not supply a variety
of brands, and then buy a Black & Decker because I think it is
the best, but around the corner at Builders Express, there is a
Makita. I know that this is not an easy task, but it could be two
pages in each issue.
Grant Watson, via email
Ed replies: Starting with the January 2014 issue, we have a new
article called Tool talk, which looks at various power tools. The
first article in the series looks at circular saws from different
manufacturers. It is a bit difficult for us to say which tool is the
best as that would not be impartial on our side. We do, however,
provide each tools specifications to enable you to compare
them with each other and then try and make an informed
decision based on that. I hope you enjoy these articles and that
they help you.
The children of Bambi Nursery School in Pretoria jumped for joy
when they heard the news that the winner of the Lonza Wood
Protection and Mintroad Saw Mills Jungle Gym Competition had
nominated them as the prize recipient. Johann van Loggerenberg,
the original winner, decided to donate his prize to the nursery
school after he heard that their jungle gym was damaged and no
longer safe to play on.
Lonza marketing manager, Gerard Busse, says, Tanalised E
wood preservative-treated poles and sawn timber were used in
the construction of the jungle gym to ensure its longevity. A high
pressure vacuum treatment with Tanalith E, which is a copper
azole-based wood preservative, will provide protection against
wood destroying organisms, such as termites and wood borer, by
rendering the treated wood fibre unsuitable as a food source, and
also provides protection against fungal decay.
Browsers Garden & Home Centre, a retail outlet of Mintroad
Saw Mills, undertook the construction of the approximately 20m
2
jungle gym. It features a sliding pole, a swing, a climbing net, stair
stringers, a slide and a sheltered platform with securely bolted
protective railing. The jungle gym had to be installed in two
separate units due to space constraints and, once safely installed,
the children did not waste any time playing on it.
Owner of Mintroad Saw Mills, Roy Smith, says, Jungle gyms
are an essential form of early childhood development so we were
thrilled to be a part of this competition with Lonza.
For further information, visit the website at www.tanalised.co.za.
DIY MATTERS News, views and reviews from around the globe
Corobriks performance last year was
pleasing, notwithstanding the setbacks
caused by the Marikana incident and
civil unrest on the building industry.
Despite these destabilising factors the
building industry is bouncing up off
its low base, albeit at fairly low levels.
Overall we see prospects improving,
buoyed by government spending on
infrastructure and raising expectations
that 2014 will be a better year than 2013,
according to Dirk Meyer, managing
director of Corobrik.
Architects are reportedly busier
than previously and the qualitative and
quantitative indicators show a general
recovery in the building industry. The
number of commercial building plans
being passed appears on a gradual
upward trend and government spending
on low cost housing and new or
extended schools is also picking up.
Dirk went on to say that the middle
and upper end of the residential market
was also on a slight upward trend,
with property prices recovering. The
middle end of the residential market is
slowly coming back off its low base and
there has been small growth in home
improvements.
Jungle gym competition
promotes early
childhood development
Building industry recovers
Do you have any DIY industry news or views to share?
The children of Bambi Nursery School
enjoying quality time outdoors
playing on their new jungle gym
The Kopano Day Care Centre, which caters
for 50 local children aged between six
months and six years of age, was officially
re-opened on 25 November 2013 with
several high profile guests in attendance,
including Bosch South Africas managing
director Steffen Hoffmann, Primavera
representative Helmut Schwarz and
Bakgatla Ba Mmakau Traditional Council
chief Motsepe.
Following the devastating fire in March
2012, the Kopano Day Care Centre issued
a plea for help from the local business
community. Multinational engineering and
electronics company Robert Bosch GmbH
stepped up to the plate by offering to assist
with the construction of a completely new
building for the crche, through funding
from Primavera, a global fundraising
organisation whose administrative costs
are paid by Bosch.
In addition to financial assistance,
Bosch has donated, amongst other
things, numerous electrical appliances,
kitchen appliances, solar geysers,
solar panels and replica Bosch toys
to the centre. Responsible corporate
citizenship is one of our core values,
especially in supporting communities
from which we draw employees and
conduct our business, says Steffen.
The temporary structure of the
centre was made of corrugated iron,
which was cold in winter and hot
in summer. As a result, Bosch Home
Appliances Division, Bosch Thermal
Technology and Bosch Solar Energy,
contributed much needed products to
improve the comfort of the children.
The site where the new home has been
built belongs to the Bakgatla Ba Mmakau
Traditional Council under the chieftainship
of Chief Motsepe. According to the building
contractor, the high content of clay in the
soil at the building site posed the largest
challenge in building the new centre.
Osram ran a Halogen Eco sms
competition in participating retail stores
from 18 May to 18 August 2013.
And, with much excitement, Andr
and Hannalie Breytenbach received their
grand prize from Osram at the Makro
Alberton Store in November 2013. The
grand prize was a boat cruise for two to
the Portuguese Islands.
Shoppers had to spot the difference
between the old incandescent lamp and
the new halogen Eco lamp on a display
in-store.
This was to emphasise that you can
save energy without having to change
what your lamp looks like by going with
Osrams new halogen eco technology.
The Osram halogen eco lamp
has the same look and feel as the
old incandescent household lamp,
but you can save up to 30% energy,
and theyre dimmable. The ban on
incandescent lamps (due to their high
energy consumption) has already been
enforced in Europe. There is talk in
South Africa about the banning and
when it will take effect locally, although
nothing is confirmed as yet. Osram has
taken the first step in phasing out the
incandescent technology and replacing
it with its new halogen eco range.
Osram turned 60% of their GLS
business into halogen eco with this
promotion, creating and contributing to
great energy savings.
Five runner-up winners walked away
with a R5 000 shopping voucher.
Osram would like to thank the
winners and other shoppers for their
valued continuous support, and we
wish Mr and Mrs Breytenbach a
splendid trip.
Osrams cruise of success
Childrens day care reopens
its doors after fire
Bosch South Africa managing director
Steffen Hoffmann and Primavera
representative Helmut Schwarz cut the
red ribbon
Kopano Day Care Centre student Thapelo
(aged 5) with his mom at the re-opening of
the centre. Thapelo says he would one day
like to be a pilot
ASK OUR EXPERTS Our panel of experts answer your questions on DIY problems
Built-in-braai
problem
We recently moved into a new house and
the previous owner had a gas braai built
into the braai opening. The first thing I did
was remove it and build a metal braai grid
to braai properly.
The problem I now have is that the smoke comes out the front and into our lapa
instead of going out the chimney. The braai opening is 138mm wide, 105mm high
(bottom to top) and 80mm deep. The chimney tapers and I installed a Whirlybird to
assist with drawing the smoke up and out of the chimney. Please advise what the
relation between the braai opening and chimney should be? I would like to keep the
opening as big as it is, if possible.
Heino Jakob, Windhoek, Namibia
Darryl Smith, customer service manager at Jetmaster, advises: There are technical
formulas to follow regarding the relation between the size of your unit and the
size of the flue. For example: A Jetmaster 1050 Universal fireplace has an opening
of 0,675m x 1.05m; this equals 0.70875 m
2
The minimum size flue area you can use is 0.07 m
2
. The Jetmaster 1050
Square is 0.2m X 0.4m. This gives you an opening area of 0.08 m
2
A simpler example is if you take our 1500 Super Deluxe unit as an example
as it is the closest size we have to your opening. With this unit, the flue size we
use is 350 x 500mm, and this is more than adequate to channel the smoke up
the chimney. Also, the Whirlybird you have installed will definitely assist with the
draw of your smoke.
I hope this assists you in resolving your current issue.
For further information speak to Darryl Smith at Jetmaster on 011-764-4632.
Kitchen island plan
I am a 64-year-old woman and have taken up woodworking
and am enjoying it tremendously. I would like to make a kitchen
island and am looking for a plan that is not too difficult. Does
anyone have such a plan to share? I have selected copies of The
Home Handyman from 2005, but none have featured a
kitchen island.
Sandry Piek, Nelspruit
Ed replies: It is great to hear that you have taken
up woodworking and are having fun learning new
woodworking skills. We have not featured a kitchen
island project in the magazine before. It is definitely a
project that we should feature in the future, so watch this space!
In the meantime, if any of our readers have made one,
perhaps they could share the plan with us.
Otherwise I suggest that you contact Viv Martin at Hardware
Centre on 011-791-0844 or visit
www.hardwarecentre.co.za as they have several books on
kitchen cabinets. Hardware Centre is a specialist
woodworking store and offers a delivery
service countrywide.
Ed replies: I am told that
the DIY Divas courses are
suitable for the layman, but
have not personally attended
any of them. Contact Janice
Anderssen on 011-475-6096
to find out what is covered in
these courses and whether
they are suitable for you.
Winning query
This months winning query
comes from Sandry Piek who
wins a Bosch PFS 105 E Wall
Paint Spray System
DIY courses
I want to know how an absolute layman can
acquire the skills needed to do all the routine
maintenance around the house himself. Ive
come across the DIY Divas workshops, but I dont
know how appropriate they are for a man.
Manfred Swanepoel, by email
W
IN
N
IN
G
Q
U
E
R
Y
11
A Bosch Cordless PSR 14.4 Li-2 Toolbox
Ask our experts
Send us your DIY queries and you could win! Send to:
The Home Handyman DIY Queries,
PO Box 650484, Benmore 2010.
Fax: 011-704-3962.
Remember to include your physical address
and telephone number during office hours.
Broken roof tile corners
W
IN
!
Please note: Queries will be
answered in the magazine.
Winners prizes may take up
to six weeks for delivery once
the issue is on the shelf.
I recently checked my roof before the rainy season really set in and
noticed that quite a few tiles were broken on the front corners.
Is this problem related to the tile, is it typical of expansion of
overlapping joints or is it related to the way the tiles have been
mounted on the trusses?
Kindly advise on possible cause and corrective actions.
Basil Evdemon, by email
Sharl Bennie, our building expert, replies: This is very common
these days with modern tiles and I am not sure exactly what
causes the corners to chip away on roof tiles, but have always put
it down to people walking on the roof or hail damage. This does
not cause any major problems with the waterproofing of the roof,
but it does affect the aesthetics of the roof tiles. Perhaps we can
ask the manufacturers of the tiles what their take is on this and if
any preventative action can be taken. As it does not cause the roof
to leak and is commonly seen on most roofs that I have worked on,
I have put it down to the tiles being very hard and brittle.
Ed replies: We contacted Willem Grove at Coverland for a
manufacturers perspective. This is a typical complaint with all
roof tiles. The problem that causes the corner breakage is known
as splay, which is a result of incorrect knife settings during the
production process. If the tiles are pushed together, the corners
can break. The same can happen when the tiles are walked on
and due to thermal expansion between summer and winter. It is
also probable that the tile was already damaged during the laying
process and the broken piece just slipped away in wind or rain.
It is easy to repair simply by removing the broken tiles and replacing them
with new tiles. To avoid colour differences between old and new tiles in obvious
areas, take some tiles from a part of the roof that is less visible and use them
for the repair and place the new ones where they are not that obvious. For more
information contact Willem on 011-222-7406.
Ed suggests: Use RoofFix to fix broken tiles. The product is manufactured by
A.Shak and is available at most hardware and building outlets.
For more information contact A.Shak on 0861-127-425.
Orbital sanders spares
I have two older orbital sanders a Black & Decker and a
Startel. Can I replace the Velcro on the older Black & Decker
sander? If so, where can I buy it? All outlets only sell the
machine itself and not the parts.
Also, the four vibration rubbers on the Startel sander are
broken. Can I buy the rubbers only; if so, where?
Toekie Snyman, Nelspruit
Ed replies: Startel is no longer represented in South Africa;
however, Double Ring Trading (DRT), a multi brand service
centre for power tools, may be able to assist with a compatible
spare for your orbital sander. Contact Jean at DRT on
012-333-6369.
Black & Decker do carry spares for your model, the BD 190E.
There are service centres or agencies countrywide that should
be able to supply you. Contact Deon or Albert at Stanley Black
& Decker on 011-472-0454.
GARDEN POND
Natural
beauty
Turn your garden into a haven for
wildlife, and create a heartening
focal point, by creating your own
natural pond
By Loren Shirley-Carr
Rocks of different sizes and plants
around the margins give this pond a
natural look
A
sk any landscaper and they will tell
you the same thing: Water is a vital
component of a beautiful garden.
It makes for an attractive focal point, and
the sound soothes the soul and disguises
ambient traffic noise (not to mention noisy
neighbours!). A pool of water also creates a
popular spot for visiting local wildlife, such
as birds and lizards, and creates a haven for
water lovers, such as frogs.
Contrary to popular belief, you dont
need a lot of space, time or money to bring
water into your garden. A small DIY garden
pond can be created in the smallest of
spaces by the most inexperienced of DIYers
as long as you have the inclination and
the energy.
Choose a site
Your pond should ideally be sited where it can be enjoyed both by you and
your gardens wildlife. Consider a spot near your patio or alongside a pathway,
preferably alongside some dense shrubbery where birds and other wildlife
can seek refuge. For a natural look, find the lowest point in your garden where
water would naturally accumulate.
A pond also needs some direct sunlight (about six hours per day) so
avoid positioning it in dense shade. Also be aware that fallen leaves can be
bothersome to clean, so you may want to avoid areas below deciduous trees.
If you have pets or children who may fall into the pond, consider a safety
net or steel grid.
If you use bricks and cement
to make your pond you need
to make sure it is completely
waterproof
Pic courtesy of The Friendly Plant
GARDEN POND
Pumps and filters
Decide whether you want
a still or moving pond.
A pump is not needed
for a still pond, but
a filtration system
is recommended
to keep the
water clean and
oxygenated,
especially if you
want to keep
fish in your pond.
Excess nutrients in
the water caused
by fish dung and
decomposing plant
material can cause
algae to appear, which
turns the water cloudy
and makes it unhealthy. One
way to keep your pond clean
is by using a bio-filter, a natural
way to clean the water. A bio-filter
provides a habitat for bacteria that digest
all the excess nutrients in the water. The
result is a clear pond that is no longer a
suitable habitat for algae.
Alternatively, you can create a natural
ecosystem with moving water using a
pond pump and water plants. By ensuring
that at least half of your ponds surface
area is covered with plants, you will reduce
sunlight levels and limit the growth of
algae. A moving pond will reward you
with the sound of splashing water, and
small waterfalls, streams and fountains
help to keep the pond water aerated, also
preventing the formation of algae. Just
make sure that you choose a pump with
the appropriate strength for what you
want to achieve.
Pond surrounds
Once your pond is in,
you will need to adorn
the edges with natural
materials to create a
water garden. Your pond
should slope gradually
towards the edges so
that wildlife can climb
out or stand in the shallow
water. Consider placing
rocks, pebbles and driftwood
and old logs around the edges
to create a natural look. These
materials will also help to hold
down the edges of the flexible and
waterproof material to line your pond.
Soften the whole look with marginal
water plants, which should be planted in
the shallow water around the edges of
your pond. Choose water-loving plants
like arums, reeds and dwarf papyrus
(Cyperus prolifer).
Water plants
Bring your pond to life with water plants.
You can anchor these plants at the
bottom of your pond using pots, however
most water plants at nurseries come in
specially designed aquatic baskets. Plants
to include in your pond are water lilies
(Nymphaea capensis), waterblommetjie
(Aponogeton distachyos) and yellow water
lily (Nymphoides thunbergiana).
Choose water-loving plants
like arums
A water lily
(Nymphaea capensis)
Dwarf papyrus
(Cyperus prolifer)
Turn your garden into
a haven for wildlife and
create a scenic focal point
by installing your own
natural pond
Types of ponds
Your pond can be created by using a
preformed rigid plastic or fibreglass
mould, by using a flexible
plastic waterproof liner, or by
using bricks and cement,
a more time-consuming
option. If you use bricks
and cement, you will
need to make sure it is
completely waterproof
by using cement-based
adhesive to seal the
pond or an outdoor
silicone sealer.
A pre-formed
pond is easy to
install, but using
a liner offers more
flexibility with regards
to size and shape, and is
also easy to install.
A waterfall keeps a pond
aerated, which prevents the
growth of algae
A preformed rigid
plastic mould for a pond
Step-by-step guide
How to create your own water garden
using a flexible plastic liner:
Step 1: Once you have found the perfect
spot, mark out the shape of your pond
with either a hosepipe or a trail of flour.
Step 2: Start digging your hole, making
sure that you have a shallow edge that
gently slopes in towards the middle of
pond. This shallow area is important for
wildlife such as frogs and birds to feel
safe. The deep end of your pond should be
about 75cm-100cm deep.
Step 3: If you want to include a
waterfall, dig out a little ledge
this will be covered by the
waterproof liner along with
the rest of the pond.
Step 4: Line the hole
with a little river sand
to smooth out the
contours.
Step 5: Position the
plastic liner to cover
the hole, smoothing
it out and making
sure it overlaps the
edge of the pond. Anchor it with rocks
and pebbles.
Step 6: Fill to about halfway with water.
This is to make sure that the liner fits
snugly into its place before placing rocks
and pebbles around the pond.
Step 7: Position your rocks, pebbles and
logs. Also place rocks on the waterfall, if
you made one. You may want to grout
between the rocks on the waterfall to
keep them together use cement and
building sand mix.
Step 8: Place the pump in the pond and
hide the hose from the pump to the
waterfall behind some rocks.
Step 9: Fill your pond.
Step 10: Plant water-loving plants, such
as arums, ornamental grasses and
papyrus, around the edges of the pond,
and fill the pond with water lilies and
waterblommetjies to create a natural
water garden.
GARDEN POND
A small DIY garden pond can be created
by the most inexperienced of DIYers
Design brief:
Readers are invited to design and construct a useful kitchen gadget it must be functional but there is no restriction on
creativity. Let your imagination run wild or play it safe, thats up to you. Ideas include pot stands, spice racks, recipe bookstand,
paper towel holders, salt and pepper shakers, breadbin, bread board but the list is endless.
The kitchen gadget can be made from any type of wood, man-made boards (i.e. medium density breboard) and/or metal. Use
any materials for the accessories and the nish which will enhance the aesthetics of your handiwork!
The kitchen item should not exceed 500mm (w) x 500mm (h) x 500mm (d).
Judging criteria
The kitchen gadget will be judged in two categories Innovation and Craftsmanship with three winners in each category.
Innovation will look at creativity, taking into account, imagination, originality, resourcefulness and functionality.
Craftsmanship will be judged according to: Quality of craftsmanship Degree of difficulty Joinery Overall finish
The Home Handyman
magazine will sponsor
supplementary prizes
of gift vouchers,
storage binders and
subscriptions
Entry Form:
Name:
Address:
Tel No:
Cell:
Email:
Declaration: I hereby declare that the entry submitted for this
competition is entirely my own work and that I adhered to all the
rules of the competition as stipulated.
Signed:
Date:
How to enter
This competition is open to all South African citizens except employees of Home Handyman
Publishing, Rutherford and its associated brands and their immediate families.
The entries must be constructed between 30 September 2013 and 25 February 2014.
No items made before this date or shop-bought items will be accepted.
Two entries per participant allowed.
Closing date for entries is Tuesday 25 Feb 2014 (expect for entries delivered in Cape Town or
Durban. To make allowances for shipment to Johannesburg, these entries must be delivered
ONLY on Tuesday 18 Feb 2013 between 9am and 4.30pm).
Prizes cannot be extended, transferred or exchanged for cash or other product.
All entries must be accompanied by a completed entry form which is on this page or use the
form on www.homehandyman.co.za or www.makita.co.za.
Delivery of entries
Entries must be securely packaged to avoid damage in transit.
Remember to attach the entry form with your full contact details on it. Please write
Make a Kitchen Gadget clearly on the packaging item.
Post to: The Home Handyman magazine, P O Box 650484, Benmore, 2010.
Or hand deliver to: The Home Handyman, 10 Cypress Ave, Bryanston Ext 3, Randburg, 2191
OR 87 Linksfield Road, Dowerglen, Edenvale 1609. (Hand deliveries weekdays between 8am
5pm only) OR Rutherford/Makita/Maktec branches in Cape Town and Durban.
(Deliveries ONLY accepted on Tuesday 18 Feb 2014 between 9am and 4.30pm).
Rutherford Cape Town Branch: Cnr. Van Riebeeck and Jan Smuts, Beaconvale, Parow.
Tel: 021 932 0568
Rutherford KZN Branch: 12 Halifax Road, Pinetown, KZN. Tel: 031 717 6400
Judging
Judging will take place at the publishers offices in Randburg on Monday 3 March 2014
and all entries including the winning entries will be displayed at Hobby-X, Coca-Cola Dome,
Randburg which is on 6 9 March 2014.
The judges decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Winners will be
notified telephonically before 6 March 2014 and arrangements will be made for receipt of
prizes. Winning entries will be featured in the magazine.
For further info go to www.homehandyman.co.za or contact Tel: 011-462-5645 or Email: editorial@homehandyman.co.za
General
Entries and prizes can be collected at Hobby-X, ONLY on Sunday 9 March 2013
or from the address you delivered your entries to. Entries via Rutherford/Makita/
Maktec branches will be returned to respective branches for your collection on
Tuesday 25 March 2014 between 9am and 4.30am ONLY.
By signing the entry form you agree to having your entry photographed for
publication in The Home Handyman magazine.
Whilst everything possible will be done to ensure safe handling of all entries,
please note that neither The Home Handyman nor Rutherford nor any of their
employees will be held responsible for damage or loss of the entries.
S
o youve made the big decision. You
need a larger home, but you cant
face moving, so youre going to
build on. Once the decision is made, youll
probably want to get cracking as soon as
possible. Before you fly head first into your
new project, there are some important
things you should know.
Yes, you do need plans
A friend or family member may have told
you that you dont need plans for this or
that, but the reality is that you probably do
need to get new plans drawn up! Plans are
required for any fixed structures erected on
your property and you need plans approved
if you are going to break down walls or
build new walls inside your home. You
need plans to put in a pool, add a garage or
granny flat or build a lapa or steel carport.
Any changes to sewerage or plumbing
fixtures within the home also require
approved plans. Shade ports are excluded.
First things first
If you dont have a copy of the existing
plans of the house, get a copy from your
council. You can obtain a copy at the
ALTERATIONS
Making plans
Building on to your
home can be exciting,
but before you start
digging the foundations,
youll need to have plans
drawn up
By Gina Hartoog
building office of your local municipality.
Once you have a copy of the last approved
plans for your home, you can make final
decisions regarding your addition and look
for someone to draw up the new plans.
Choosing a draughtsman
or architect
Depending on the size and type
of alteration you want to make, a
draughtsman or architect can be hired to
draw up the plans. You will need to make
an appointment with the person for a
meeting at your home. While you may
have a basic idea of what you want, ask
the architect or draughtsman for advice
on the project. Once s/he has inspected
your home and has a good idea of what
changes are required, s/he may be able to
offer professional advice that could save
you money.
Plans need to be drawn up according
to National Building Regulation Standards.
Check that the draughtsman or architect
you choose is registered with a relevant
registration body, such as the South African
Council for the Architectural Profession
(SACAP) or the South African Institute of
Architectural Technologists (SAIAT). Plans
should be completed within a month, but
this also depends on the existing plans and
work required.
SANS legislation
New building regulations, which came
into effect in November 2011, do impact
alterations to existing homes. Only the
portions of the building that are being
extended or altered are subject to these
regulations.
If you are adding a bathroom or
kitchen, you are required to install a solar
water heater or heat pump. Also, the
size of the windows in the new building
may not be more than 15% of the net
floor space. Bigger windows require low
emissivity glass. Calculations are required
to determine which window frame and
glazing will be most energy efficient.
SANS calculations must be included
on the plans. These include fenestration
calculations for glazing and frames to be
ALTERATIONS
used and roof calculations for the thickness
of insulation required. The draughtsman
will also need to calculate that the hot
water usage falls within the parameters set
out in the National Building Regulations
(NBR). Lighting calculations determine
if the number of lights proposed in the
alteration also fall within these parameters.
Architects and draughtsmen must attend
a course in order to learn how to do these
calculations.
The draughtsman or architect is
required to fill in a SANS 10400-A form,
which is a 19-page document that must
be submitted with the plans. The first
two sections of the form are completed
by the draughtsman or architect and
the third section is completed by an
engineer. The fourth section of the form
is for the approval of an engineer. The
draughtsman or architect should be able to
recommend an engineer to sign the plans
and documents. You will also need to sign
various sections of the form as the owner
of the property. The SACAP Architectural
Certificate of Compliance certificate must
be completed by the architect and included
in the plan pack.
Other documentation
Once the plans and documents are
complete, the draughtsman or architect
will fill in a building plans submission form
if required by the relevant council. Two
copies of each page of the plans will go to
the council one in colour and the other
in black and white. Once plans have been
approved, the homeowner will receive the
colour copy back and the black and white
copy is kept by the council.
Check that the
draughtsman
or architect you
choose is registered
with a relevant
registration body
Choosing a contractor
A home builder legally needs to be
registered with the National Home Builders
Registration Council (NHBRC).
Master Builders Associations are active in
most regions; although this is a voluntary
registration the companies are vetted to
ensure that they have all the required legal
registration with SARS, UIF, active bank
accounts and other requirements.
Request that the contractor provide you
with a Letter of Good Standing this
may be provided by the Compensation
Commissioner or Federated Employers
Mutual Assurance Company. The letter
must be current check for the expiry date.
This will ensure the builders employees are
covered for any work-related injuries that
may occur while on the property.
Never sign anything without reading it
first! Everything must be in black and white
avoid verbal agreements.
Dont automatically accept the
lowest quote. The contractor may be
inexperienced at quoting, or accidentally or
purposefully forgotten to add something
which you may be liable for later.
Do not let any work begin before a Joint
Building Contracts Committee (JBCC)
contract or similar is signed.
Arrange a regular site inspection with the
builder (daily if possible) to ensure the
work is progressing as agreed. If there are
quality issues, sort them out immediately.
Source: Master Builders Association North
The homeowner also needs to supply a copy of their current water
and lights account as well as a copy of the title deed of the property. If
your property is bonded, ask your bank for a copy.
If your new structure will be built over the property building line
allowed by your council, you will need approval to have it relaxed.
This form can be obtained from the town planning department. All
neighbours on the relevant boundaries (even those across the street)
must be asked to give their approval for the relaxation. If you are adding
rooms or a living area to your home, a certificate of occupancy form must
be filled in.
Fees payable on submission of your documents and plans are
calculated according to the square metres of the addition on your home.
Draughtsmen and architects generally use runners to submit plans to
council. This saves on their time and yours. Should you prefer to submit
your own plans, you are able to do so.
Waiting game
The plans take between two to three months to be approved, depending
on the council. Should you want to begin your building project before the
plans are approved, you will need to apply for pre-approval. While you are
waiting for pre-approval or approval, start looking for a contractor (see
box) and get quotes in for your project.
Information courtesy of draughtsman Alan Zerff of F3 Designs
[owner: Greg Viadana (SAIAT)].
A
brick is just a brick, right? Wrong! In this feature we look
at the classification of clay and cement bricks and well
as other building blocks that can be used in various
applications in the home.
Bricks are rectangular blocks used for building and they have
been around for centuries. The most common bricks we know
today are clay and cement bricks. Bricks and blocks are generally
laid in mortar to build walls or other fixed structures inside and
outside the home. In South Africa, the brick braai is a popular DIY
project for the garden.
Bricks are a durable choice of building material as they are
able to withstand severe weather conditions and high winds.
Cement blocks are often used to construct retainer walls in
the garden.
Colour, texture and size
Cement stock bricks are grey in colour. They are suitable for
building work which is going to be plastered. Clay face bricks
are available in myriad different colours to suit every taste and
application. In most cases the colour of the brick is determined by
the raw materials used and their mineral content, as well as any
additives. Colour can also be changed during the manufacturing
process - a long firing time results in a darker coloured brick.
MASONRY
Building
blocks
If you are planning a building
project, one of the first steps
is choosing the right bricks or
blocks for the job.
By Gina Hartoog
Pic courtesy of Corobrik
Face bricks also have different textures
which add to the completed projects
aesthetic appeal. A plain-coloured brick can
look very different with the addition of a
texture to the brick face. Three common
textures for face bricks are satin, travertine
and rock face. Satin bricks have a smooth
finish, while travertine is more textured.
Rock face bricks have a rough, stone-like
face. Corobrik also includes a coral and
rustic texture in their range.
Cement and clay pavers are used to
pave driveways, paths, patios and areas
around the swimming pool.
Brick strength is measured in
megapascals (MPa). SABS approved
masonry units are 7 MPa 14 MPa bricks
sold with a valid SABS Certificate, while
SABS specification masonry units are sold
as 7 MPa, without valid certification. Brick
strength also depends on how long bricks
are given to mature after production. They
longer they mature, the stronger they are.
An imperial or standard size brick measures
222mm x 106mm x 73mm.
73mm
222mm
106mm
Bricks are a durable
choice of building
material as they are
able to withstand severe
weather conditions and
high winds
Glass bricks allow light into a
room without compromising
on privacy
Sentinel Retainer blocks are
dry-stacked and lock into each
other to form an attractive
retaining wall that is part of
the garden layout
Pic courtesy of DSM
MASONRY
Types of bricks
Face brick extra (FBX)
These are clay face bricks selected
or produced for their durability and
highest degree of uniformity of size,
shape and colour. FBX is the golden
standard of bricks. They can be
used for both exterior and interior
building projects where a high
degree of perfection is required.
Non-facing plastered (NFP)
NFP clay bricks are suitable for
general building work that will
be plastered. These bricks are also
known as stock or plaster bricks.
Non-facing extras (NFX) are clay
bricks suitable for use, plastered
or unplastered, in general building
work where durability rather than
aesthetics is the key selection
criteria, for example, below a
damp-proof course or under damp
conditions or below ground level.
Face brick standard (FBS)
FBS bricks are durable clay face
bricks that are uniform in size
and shape. They can be used for
all general masonry projects.
Tolerances are not as strict as with
FBX bricks but the brick is still of a
high quality.
Clay pavers (PA)
Clay PA pavers are
paving bricks selected or
produced for their durability and for
a high degree of uniformity in size
and shape, and that have dimensions
such that the ratio of work size length
to work size width is approximately
1:1, 2:1 or 3:1. Most PA pavers have a
bevelled edge.
Face brick aesthetic (FBA)
These clay face bricks are selected
or produced for their durability and
aesthetic effect, which is derived
from non-uniformity of size, shape or
colour of the brick. Wider tolerances
are allowed on FBA bricks (also called
semi-face bricks). They are a popular
choice where a rough or more rustic
look is required.
Clay pavers (PB)
Clay PB pavers are selected or
produced for their durability
and for their uniformity in size
and shape.
The Great Wall of China was
constructed by the first emperor of
the Qin Dynasty around 210 BC and
is made up of nearly four billion
individual bricks.
Did you know?
Clay pavers (PA)
Clay PA pavers are
Aluglass Bautech 0861-258 452;
www.aluglass.co.za
Clay Brick Association www.claybrick.org
Corobrik 011 871 8600; www.corobrik.co.za
Decorative Stone Masonry SA
011 964 2995; www.dsm-sa.co.za
Gauteng Brickyard www.gautengbrickyard.co.za
Contacts
Special-shaped bricks
These are any bricks that are not
rectangular in shape. They may be
single or double bullnose bricks,
angle and cant bricks, arch bricks,
capping, plinth bricks and spiral
bricks. They are available in the
same colours and textures as the
range of FBX, FBS and FBA bricks.
Glass bricks
Glass bricks can be used to construct
sections of interior and exterior walls
and allow light to enter the home
without compromising on privacy. They
are a popular choice in bathrooms, on
stairwells and in other focal areas in the
home. Glass bricks provide a solution
for an area with an unsightly view while
still allowing light inside the home.
They also have a higher insulating
factor than regular window glass. They
are easy to clean and come in a wide
range of colours, styles and designs.
Cement blocks
Cement blocks can
be used to construct
exterior walls, boundary
walls and, when used with re-enforcing,
can be used for load-bearing walls.
The holes in concrete blocks are
called cores. They aid in insulation
and lower the weight of the block.
Steel bars can also be inserted into
the cores for added strength during
construction. A variety of colours, sizes,
shapes and textures are now available,
including interlocking concrete blocks.
Compressive strength for blocks varies
between 3.5 MPa and 7 MPa.
Decorative retainer blocks
Retainer blocks are used to
build retaining walls, level a
steep slope or enclose a section
of the garden. Retaining walls
are becoming more popular in
landscaping and are no longer
designed to blend into the
background. Decorative retainer
blocks can be used to create a
retaining wall that is both eye-
catching and functional. They
are available in various colours
to suit your homes style and
colouring.
blocks
blocks can
to construct
walls, boundary
Cement pavers and
interlocking pavers
These come in a range of different
colours and textures. They are
durable and able to withstand
severe weather. Interlocking pavers
can be used on driveways or for
commercial applications where
there is heavy traffic.
Cement pavers and
Cement stock brick
Commonly called a mampara brick
in South African building lingo, the
cement stock brick is often selected
as a cheaper building option for walls
that will be plastered. Cement stocks
are manufactured to the standard
brick size, but most manufacturers
also offer a maxi size option. Bricks at
7 MPa are suitable for a single storey
building or boundary walls, and 10
MPa bricks for both single
and double storey.
g
an and double storey.
PAINTING
Find out why paint fails how

you can fix the problem and
prevent it altogether
P
aint is probably the most common
exterior finish used on wood, metal
and walls, says Herman Rabe, technical
service consultant at Prominent Paints. When
paint is properly applied to the appropriate
substrate, it can give a service life of up to
10 years. Herman explains that all too often,
problems occur during the application of the
paint and the paint coat fails to achieve the
expected lifespan.
Why does paint fail
prematurely?
Herman says, There are two main factors
contributing to early paint failure and we
only have control over one of these. The first
is the weather and the second is application
related. The weather is the primary reason
for paint failing and unfortunately this
is completely out of our control. Herman
explains that the suns ultraviolet rays cause
paint pigments to fade. Radiation from the
sun eventually breaks down the paint film,
which leads to chalking. The biggest enemy,
however, is moisture and temperature
changes which cause buildings to expand
and contract. These movements stress the
paint, weakening the bond between the
paint and the substrate ,which leads to
hairline cracks that quickly get bigger.
Moisture is a major problem, especially
on exterior walls, as paint is porous and
moisture can penetrate it. Its the most
Why paint fails
prematurely
By Roelof Strydom

common cause of premature paint failure
on wood, metal and plastered walls, says
Herman. The paint on exterior walls is
subject to wetting by various means such
as rain and dew. Before painting its also
important to clean areas that are protected
from sunlight, like porches, eaves and walls
covered by overhangs. Herman explains
that dirty areas like these interfere with the
adhesion of the new paint.
Paint also fails due to human error.
This is when its applied incorrectly or the
incorrect paint is applied; eventually leading
to failure. It comes down to the paint not
adhering properly to the surface because
the surface has not been treated, primed or
prepared properly before applying the top
coat of paint, says Bennum van Jaarsveld,
communications manager at Dulux. Any
raw surface requires a primer. Use plaster
primer in the case of plaster or concrete,
wood needs wood primer to seal and
protect it, while metal requires a metal
primer. If there are specific problems, like
damp, these need to be addressed before
any primer and topcoat can be applied.
Other problems include the application
of too few coats, meaning the application is
too thin, or when paint is applied over dirty
or already peeling paint, which prevents
the new paint from adhering properly.
A third problem relates to the choice of
paint, such as using oil-based paint when
acrylic should be used or vice versa. People
also often choose cheap paint, for obvious
reasons, but then pay the price later as
cheap paints have inferior binders and
pigments, leading to early failure.
Fixing the problem
Always prepare the surface properly by
removing all the loose and flaky paint
from the surface, says Herman.
Wash the surface with a solution of one
part Progold General Purpose Cleaner to
10 parts water. Where fungus is present,
wash the area with Progold Fungal Wash
at a ratio of 1: 6 and allow for a reaction
time of three hours. After three hours,
scrub the area with a nylon brush or
abrasive pad and finally rinse the surface
with clean water.
Allow the surface to dry properly,
especially if it is a wood or cement
surface, before proceeding with any
paint application.
When the correct paint is properly
applied to the surface it can give a
service life of up to 10 years
Always clean and prepare the
surface before applying any
primers and topcoats
Avoid using cheap
paints because they
have inferior binders
and pigments which
can lead to early
failure of the paint
Make sure you are using the correct
primer for the surface as not all primers
are the same.
In the case of rising damp or other
moisture problems, use a reputable
waterproofing company to first correct
the waterproofing before starting with
the painting.
Always apply the primer and topcoats
according to the product specification on
the container. The product spreading rates
are printed on the back of the container
as a guideline and are there to guide
you in applying the product to standard,
ensuring the correct product performance.
When painting parapet walls, apply two
coats of Prominent Fibre Seal to the top
of parapet walls before painting.
Dont stop at one coat of your selected
topcoat. The second coat will provide a far
superior paint performance and is required
for the paint to perform as intended.
Preventing the problem
Bennum explains that you should rather
spend a bit more time preparing and
priming the surface before applying the
topcoat to make sure its protected against
moisture, dirt and rust.
Remember to adhere to the recoating
time on the container. Herman explains
that it is essential to waterproof parapet
walls and house wall areas beneath the
damp protective course. It is especially
necessary on houses where the damp
protective course is higher than the exterior
ground level. He also notes that prevention
is better than cure when it comes to the
building of a new house. It will save you a
lot of money in the long run.
Sources
Dulux, www.dulux.co.za
Plascon, www.plascon.co.za
Prominent Paints, www.prominentpaints.co.za
PAINTING
The surface must be properly
prepared before applying
paint. Metal objects require
a metal primer
Remove all loose and flaky
paint from the surface
Troubleshooting paint problems
Chalking
This is when a fine powder forms on the painted surface and will present itself when
you wipe your hand over the surface. Possible causes may be the use of low grade and
highly pigmented paint or using interior paint for exterior application.
The solution is to remove as much of the powder residue as possible using a stiff
bristle brush or even a pressure washer on exterior surfaces. After the surface is clean
and dry, apply a solvent- or water-based primer and then paint the surface with a
topcoat.
Blistering
These bubbles usually indicate a loss of adhesion in areas and the subsequent lifting
of the paint film from the underlying surface. Possible causes may be that a solvent-
based paint was applied over a damp or wet surface, moisture has penetrated the
home through the exterior walls or the paint was exposed to high humidity and
moisture shortly after it had dried.
If the blisters dont extend all the way down, the solution is to remove the blisters
by means of scraping and sanding and then repaint the surface with a water-based
paint. If the blisters do extend all the way to the base material, you first need to locate
and remove the moisture source. Next, remove the blisters by means of scraping and
sanding, followed by an appropriate primer and then at least two coats of topcoat.
Crocodiling or alligatoring
This refers to patterned cracks in the surface of the paint film that resemble the
scales of a crocodile. The application of an extremely hard coating like a solvent-based
enamel over a more flexible coating like a water-based primer could be a possible
cause. Another reason for crocodiling could be that the topcoat was applied before the
undercoat was dry.
To solve this problem, the old paint needs to be completely removed. You can use
a heat gun to speed up the process. After the old paint has been removed, prime the
surface with a water- or solvent-based primer. Once the primer has dried, apply two
coats of water-based paint.
Foaming or cratering
These are tiny bubbles that form when the paint is applied. As the paint dries, these
bubbles then pop and leave small depressions, known as cratering. Shaking a partially
filled tin of paint could be a possible cause as well as applying paint too rapidly,
especially with a roller, or even applying a gloss or satin paint over a porous surface.
To prevent this from happening, buy good quality paint. All paint will foam to
some degree, but good quality paints are formulated in such a way that the bubbles
pop while the paint is still wet. Also avoid excessive rolling or brushing when applying
the paint.
Fading
Premature or excessive lightening of paint can occur on surfaces that are regularly
exposed to sunlight. Causes may be the use of paint that is vulnerable to UV radiation,
such as bright reds, blues and yellows. The use of interior paint on an exterior surface
can also lead to this problem.
Solve this problem by using quality exterior paint in colours that are
recommended for exterior use.
Chalking
Blistering
Alligatoring
Fading
Foaming/
cratering
TOOL TALK
Cut above
the rest
A circular saw is an indispensable
power tool for making long straight
cuts. Heres a look at six saws thatll
turn any sheet of wood into usable
pieces in no time
By Roelof Strydom
Available from: www.dewaltpowertools.co.za
Weight: 5.1kg
Recommended
retail price:
R1 995
Available from: www.bosch-do-it.com/za
Weight: 3.9kg
Recommended
retail price:
R1 199
This is a compact,
yet powerful 1 150W
saw with a 184mm
blade diameter and
no-load speed of
5 000rpm. It is able
to reach a cutting
depth of 65mm at
0 and has a maximum
bevel capacity of 50. The
blade bore is 16mm and it has
an efficient dust extraction port to
minimise airborne dust.
This Bosch circular saw
has an ergonomic
design with a
comfortable soft
grip and weighs
only 3.9kg. It
has a 1 200W
motor and no-load
speed of 5 600rpm. The
maximum cutting depth at 0
and 45 (maximum bevel capacity) is
55mm and 38mm respectively. The saw is rated
for a 160mm blade with a bore of 20mm.
Set the blade depth so that only one tooth of the saw blade
extends past the bottom of the wood. This reduces the chance
of the saw binding to the wood or kicking back.
Tip
What to look for
A comfy grip and front handle that helps to steady cuts.
Side-to-side safety switches that prevent the machine
from being switched on accidentally.
Buy one for your specific needs. If you need to do a lot of
plunge cuts, then buy a plunge saw, but if you are only
going to do rip cuts and the occasional plunge cut, a
circular saw will be fine.
DeWalt D23620 Bosch PKS 55 A
Triton TA184CSL
Available from: www.tritontools.com
Weight: 5.1kg
Power cord length: 2m
Recommended
retail price:
R2 300
With a 1 800W motor and
no-load speed of
5 000rpm, the Triton is
quite a powerful saw.
It has a laser line for
increased accuracy
and safety. The depth
adjustment is 63mm at 0
and 49mm at 45 respectively. A
185mm blade with a bore of 20mm
is specified for this machine.
Woodster CS7131
Makita 5704RK
Available from: www.newcopowertools.co.za
Weight: 4.16kg
Power cord length: 2m
Recommended
retail price:
R950
Available from: www.makita.co.za
Weight: 4.9kg
Power cord length: 2.5m
Recommended
retail price:
R2 159
Powered by a 1 350W motor
and maxing out at a
no-load speed of
5 000rpm, this saw
has a cutting depth
of 62mm at 0and
a maximum bevel
capacity of 45. The
saw can take a blade of
185mm in diameter with a bore
of 20mm. An additional feature of
this Woodster circular saw is its laser line guide.
The Makita 5704RK has a
1 200W motor that drives the
blade to 4 900rpm
under no load. This saw
is rated for a 190mm
blade with a bore of 30mm and
has a cutting depth of 66mm at
0 and 46mm at 45. It comes supplied with
an anti-kickback riving knife to enhance the saws safety.
Festool TS55R
Available from: www.festool.co.za
Weight: 4.5kg
Recommended
retail price:
R7 775
This machine is powered
by a 1 200W motor with
no-load speed of 6 300rpm.
It has a blade and bore
diameter of 160mm and
20mm respectively. It is
able to reach a cutting depth
of 55mm at 0 and 43mm at 45. As
an additional feature, it has a sliding
viewing window that gives the operator
a good view of the scribe mark and saw blade.
Upgrade those blades
The blades that are included with your circular saw will cut
through a variety of materials, but perhaps not as cleanly
as you would like. Thats why there are speciality blades.
For cutting material like Formica and
melamine, a saw blade with a negative
rake is required to prevent the material
from chipping in this case, the Tork
Craft aluminium blade is a good option.
For cutting a variety of materials like
wood with nails, plastic, PVC and
laminates, the Tork Craft Universal
Quick Cut blade is the way to go.
Technique:
Tips on making three important cuts
Bevel cut
Notch cut
Rest the front lip of the shoe on
the workpiece and pull back the
saws guard lever to expose the
blade, which will enable you to
align the blade with the cut line.
Finally, start the saw and dip into
the cut.
You want as much shoe on the
workpiece as possible, so plan the
direction of the cut and flip the
material face up or face down
accordingly. Next, set the circular
saw at the desired angle and
make the cut.
Mark out the notchs borders and
depth. Next, set the saw blade
to the correct depth. Before you
start the cut, pull back the saws
guard lever to expose the blade.
Then cut the two borders first and
ensure they are perfectly straight.
Dont worry about making straight
cuts in-between. Just run the saw
completely through the wood on each pass or youll be left with
an uneven surface after knocking out the slices.
Plunge cut
Advice
Water features, choosing and installing .....February 2013 ......... Pg 26
Tap and die set, how to use ..............................February 2013 ......... Pg 34
Personal protective equipment, safety. ........February 2013 ......... Pg 36
Wooden doors, fix and prevent swelling ....February 2013 ......... Pg 44
Tyre safety, urban girls guide ...........................February 2013 ......... Pg 46
Property renovations ...........................................March 2013 .............. Pg 36
Property buying tips ............................................April 2013 ................. Pg 44
French polishing ....................................................June 2013 ...................Pg 52
Braais, types of .......................................................September 2013 .....Pg 22
Gazebos and pergolas .........................................October 2013 ........... Pg 12
Construction safety law .....................................November 2013...... Pg 26
Building and repairs
Brick braai, build a .................................................January 2013 ........... Pg 34
Walls and ceilings .................................................May 2013 ................... Pg 41
Clay brick facts .......................................................June 2013 .................. Pg 46
Bricklaying tips .......................................................July 2013 ................... Pg 38
Retaining walls .......................................................August 2013 ............. Pg 18
Service a lock ...........................................................August 2013 ............ Pg 42
Clay brick braai, build a .......................................September 2013 .... Pg 26
Pizza oven .................................................................October 2013 .......... Pg 30
Home, building a ...................................................November 2013...... Pg 30
Cost-effective ways to build a home ............December 2013. ...... Pg 12
Brick braai, build a .................................................December 2013 ....... Pg 18
Bathrooms
Installing a basin ...................................................January 2013 ............ Pg 18
Refurbish a bathroom guidelines...................March 2013 .............. Pg 30
Design tips for small bathrooms ....................September 2013 .....Pg 32
Accessories ...............................................................September 2013 .... Pg 34
Cladding
Types and installation .........................................December 2013 ...... Pg 24
Drainage
How to manage excess water .........................January 2013 ............Pg 23
Garden drainage system. ...................................August 2013 ............. Pg 12
Damp
Prevent and fix damp problems .....................July 2013. .................... Pg 12
Rising damp, understanding ............................July 2013 .................... Pg 18
Rising damp solutions. ........................................September 2013 .... Pg 36
Drywalling
Install a drywall ......................................................July 2013 ................... Pg 24
Electrical
Reducing household electricity usage .........February 2013.........Pg 38
Electrical safety ......................................................March 2013 ............. .Pg 38
Electrical certificates of compliance. ............April 2013 ..................Pg 32
Electric fence regulations ..................................September 2013 ....Pg 40
Electric fence information .................................October 2013 .......... Pg 26
Flooring
Underfloor heating and insulation ...............April 2013 .................. Pg 12
Natural stone advice ............................................May 2013 ................... Pg 12
Concrete floors .......................................................July 2013 ....................Pg 22
Gardening
Lawn care ..................................................................August 2013 .............Pg 22
Herbs, planting and care ....................................November 2013......Pg 44
Revamp an old plant stand ...............................November 2013...... Pg 46
Instant lawn ............................................................December 2013 ...... Pg 28
Indoor projects
Floating shelves .....................................................January 2013 ........... Pg 30
Headboard, make a...............................................January 2013 ........... Pg 36
Insulation
Insulation and r-values .......................................May 2013 ................... Pg 18
Insulating without breaking the bank .........June 2013 ................... Pg 12
Irrigation
Benefits and installation ....................................March 2013 ............... Pg 12
Kitchens
Revamp on a budget ............................................January 2013 ............ Pg 12
Lighting
Bulkheads and downlights, installing ..........January 2013 ........... Pg 42
Maintenance
Outdoor metal ........................................................September 2013 ..... Pg 18
Protect wooden structures, how to ...............February 2013 .......... Pg 18
Outdoor wood ........................................................October 2013 ........... Pg 18
Metalworking projects
Bird feeder, make a ...............................................January 2013 ............Pg 52
Fire pit, make a .......................................................February 2013 ......... Pg 30
Metal reading table, make a.............................March 2013 .............. Pg 42
Rustic bench, make a ...........................................January 2013 ........... Pg 26
Coffee table, make a ............................................April 2013 ................. Pg 26
Sheet metal shapes ..............................................April 2013 ................. Pg 28
Notice board, make a ...........................................May 2013 .................. Pg 48
Bed, construct a metal ........................................June 2013 .................. Pg 34
Candle holder, make a .........................................July 2013 ................... Pg 30
Hosepipe holder.....................................................August 2013 ............ Pg 34
Garden bench .........................................................October 2013 .......... Pg 36
Book/flower stand ................................................November 2013...... Pg 34
Lawn spike roller, how to make .......................December 2013 ...... Pg 44
Mosaic
Jacuzzi holiday paradise .....................................April 2013 .................. Pg 18
Decorate your garden wall ................................June 2013 .................. Pg 42
Plant holder made from an old toilet pan August 2013 ............ Pg 38
Keys and remote holder .....................................November 2013...... Pg 48
Article index: 2013
Outdoor projects
Mosaic bowl for outside tap ............................February 2013 ..........Pg 22
Water feature for outside tap ..........................May 2013 .................. Pg 44
Painting
Novice painters, advice for ................................May 2013 .................. Pg 30
Ladders and scaffolds ..........................................May 2013 .................. Pg 36
Preparation. ..............................................................May 2013 .................. Pg 38
Choosing the right paintbrush and roller June 2013 .................. Pg 30
Painting know-how...............................................October 2013 ...........Pg 22
Safe paint disposal ...............................................December 2013 .......Pg 32
Pest control
Identify and control common pests ..............February 2013 .......... Pg 12
Plumbing
Leaking tap, fixing a .............................................February 2013 ......... Pg 42
Installing toilets and basins .............................March 2013 .............. Pg 26
Renovations
Paving installer, choosing a ...............................March 2013 .............. Pg 46
Wall coverings, types and advice ....................May 2013 ...................Pg 22
Doors, choosing the right ..................................July 2013 ................... Pg 26
Managing renovations ........................................August 2013 ............ Pg 44
Safety and security
Childrens room ......................................................May 2013 .................. Pg 26
Fire safety .................................................................June 2013 .................. .Pg 18
Security gates, installation ................................December 2013 ......Pg 40
Swimming pools
Installation options and safety .......................November 2013....... Pg 14
Solar heating pools...............................................November 2013.......Pg 22
Clinobrite pool filter. ............................................December 2013......Pg 36
Thatch
Regulations ...............................................................September 2013 .... Pg 12
Tiling
Custom tile designs .............................................October 2013 .......... Pg 46
Tools and Toolbox
The latest in power tools ....................................January 2013 ........... Pg 41
Sharpen surface planer knives ........................February 2013 ..........Pg 52
Tube sealants, using different ..........................March 2013 .............. Pg 34
Angle grinder safety ............................................April 2013 ................. Pg 42
Power planer, handling .......................................April 2013 .................Pg 40
Circular saw safety ...............................................April 2013 ................. Pg 30
Painting equipment .............................................May 2013 ...................Pg 32
Sealant applicators. ..............................................June 2013 ...................Pg 23
Sharpen different tools .......................................July 2013 ................... Pg 42
Gardening tools .....................................................September 2013. ..... Pg 31
Innovative tools......................................................October 2013 ..........Pg 40
Apps for DIYers ......................................................November 2013...... Pg 38
Bandsaw....................................................................December 2013 ...... Pg 50
C-clamp .....................................................................December 2013 .......Pg 52
Sustainability and
water conservation
Garden watering, save water ...........................March 2013 ............... Pg 18
Renewable energy and its future in SA .......April 2013 ..................Pg 22
Scientific ways to water and save ..................March 2013 ...............Pg 22
Water heating
Cost-effective ways to heat water .................June 2013 .................. Pg 26
Waterproofing
Waterproof your roof ...........................................August 2013 ............ Pg 28
Rising damp, how to halt ...................................October 2013 .......... Pg 42
Fish pond crack repair .........................................December 2013 ...... Pg 48
Welding
Tips to improve welding results .....................June 2013 .................. Pg 38
Windows
How to install .........................................................November 2013......Pg 40
Woodturning
Segmented woodturning art ...........................April 2013 ................. Pg 48
Hints for new woodturners ..............................August 2013 ............ Pg 48
Safety and first steps of turning ....................September 2013 .... Pg 44
Lathe, finishing .......................................................October 2013 .......... Pg 48
Woodworking projects
Carved gecko, make a. .........................................January 2013 ........... Pg 38
Sideboard, construct a ........................................January 2013 ........... Pg 46
Dining room chairs, construct .........................January 2013 ........... Pg 50
Wheels for a wooden vehicle, make..............February 2013 ......... Pg 48
Wooden clock, how to make ............................March 2013 ...............Pg 52
Gym bench, build a ...............................................April 2013 ..................Pg 52
Preparing your wood ...........................................May 2013 .................. Pg 54
Measuring and marking ....................................June 2013 .................. Pg 48
Routing corners ......................................................June 2013 .................. Pg 50
Table lamp, made from pinewood .................July 2013 ................... Pg 46
Magazine holder ...................................................July 2013 ................... Pg 50
Pocket-hole joinery, using a router ................July 2013 ....................Pg 52
Biscuit joiners .........................................................August 2013 .............Pg 52
Mortise and tenon joint, how to make a ....September 2013 .... Pg 48
Bread bin, make a ..................................................September 2013 .....Pg 52
Candle holders, make ..........................................October 2013 ...........Pg 52
Wooden bed, using knock-down joints........November 2013. ......Pg 52
D
ecks can be constructed from
almost any material, but most will
agree that wooden decks are by far
the most beautiful of them all. Apart from
just being a sight for sore eyes, they hold
other attributes too. They are
fairly easy to install, maintain
and repair as long as
you give them the TLC
they deserve.
Choose your
wood
The first question
should be what
material to use for
your deck. Before
construction starts
you need to decide on
what type of decking
boards you will use.
Wooden decking can
be made from a variety
of wood types. Put a lot of thought into the
type of wood you choose for the project as
different woods require different levels of
maintenance, as you will see later on in
the article.
Take into account your climate, the size
of the area to be decked and the amount of
traffic it will have to withstand, and choose
a wood with a density that suits. The
density of wood goes hand in hand with
its price; the lower the density, the more
open grained it is; the higher the density,
the more durable the wood. It makes sense
to buy the very best deck boards you can
afford. It is best to speak to a decking
specialist about choosing a wood that will
be durable, beautiful and affordable.
When it comes to all living things, water
is vital for survival. The same goes for trees;
remember at one stage when your decking
board was still a living tree, it had a high
moisture content. A tree can be made up of
more than 75% moisture, depending on
the species.
In Gauteng, where there are extreme
moisture level changes in the air (from
about 60% in summer to 12% in winter),
you need decking boards with a moisture
content below 15-18% for them to remain
What deck do I have?
If you are unsure about the treatment
your deck needs, sprinkle a few drops of
water on a sanded down area of
the wood.
Hardwoods will not absorb the water.
Softwoods will absorb the water.
DECKING
Its a new year and you might have
considered installing your own deck. Here
are some important aspects to consider
as well as maintenance tips for new and
existing wooden decks
Natural-born
decking
stable. Any higher and the moisture will
evaporate out of the wood into the dry,
hot air and may cause it to warp or shrink.
A wood like balau that is imported with a
25% or higher moisture content is great for
coastal areas, which have high humidity,
but not for the drier inland areas. If you
live inland, always make sure the wood you
buy for outdoor use is kiln dried to ensure
stability of your deck boards.
The support structure
The most important part of a deck is the
substructure; using the correct methods
and materials is very important. The
column/poles structure, onto which the
joists, bearers and beam structure are
fastened, should be constructed from
CCA treated gum poles. Beams, joists and
bearers should be constructed with CCA
treated pine. The size
of these planks will
depend on the size of
the deck and the span
over a specific length.
The bigger the span, the
heavier it will be, thus
requiring larger planks.
The sizes of the planks are as
follows: 38mm x 38mm, 76mm
x 38mm, 114mm x 38mm, 152mm
x 38mm and 228mm x 38mm. The
planks should also be CCA treated.
Deck screws
The three widely used screws for securing
decking boards to the joists are brass, brass-
plated and stainless steel. Stainless steel
screws are the obvious choice for decking
installations at coastal regions because
they are resistant to rust, but they are
expensive. Brass and brass-plated screws
can also be used as they are cheaper.
Use screws with lengths of 50-90mm.
Screws can vary between Pozi, square
and hexagonal screw heads, with square-
headed screws becoming increasingly
popular because they tend not to strip
as easily.
Treating your deck
Untreated wood will soon show the
damaging effects of the weather, grime will
build up, greying will occur and mildew and
mould might form, while water, rust and oil
stains will leave marks on your deck. But all
this can be treated and your deck restored
to its once natural beauty.
Right form the start, the amount of
maintenance required will depend on
whether you have a hardwood or softwood
deck. Hardwoods would have cost more in
the beginning to build with, but are a lot
Never use a common wood filler
outside because it dissolves. If you
need to use a filler of some sort,
rather use epoxy fillers, which are
water resistant.
Take note!
If any section of your deck stays wet for a day
or more after rain, take steps to see that it dries
out. You may need to sweep away leaves and dirt
from between boards or where the deck meets
the house. Perhaps a bush or tree limb needs to
be trimmed back or a downpipe moved to direct
water away from the deck.
Tip
more durable and need less maintenance.
Softwoods also make suitable decks, but
need more maintenance.
An aspect that will also affect how
often you have to treat your deck is the
amount of exposure to natural elements
and traffic, but a good rule of thumb is
to treat your deck about once every six
months for the first three years. Thereafter,
annual treatment is adequate.
Regular maintenance
When restoring wood, the most important
aspect is the preparation of the surface
before sealing. If your deck is in good
condition, firstly wipe away old grime using
a cloth well soaked in mineral turpentine.
Then use steel wool and mineral turpentine
to remove any stubborn dirt. Always work
with the grain. Next, use a stiff plastic
brush and mineral turpentine to clean
out the grooves. Finally, wipe with a cloth
dampened with mineral turpentine and
leave the wood to dry properly.
Weathered
decks
If the deck is
starting to
wear, sanding
is important,
but this is only
the case if the
deck is a smooth
one. Many decks are
grooved and therefore
cannot be sanded.
Although it is not ideal, a
steel brush will have to do in
this instance to get into
the grooves.
If your deck is in very bad condition,
the procedure will change. The existing
finish/coating must be completely removed.
Again, sanding is ideal, but not if the deck
is grooved.
If the deck has taken on a dull grey colour,
the problem actually looks much worse
than it really is. Chances are its covered
with a thin film of mildew and only needs
a cleaning. (Redwood decks are sometimes
left untreated and allowed to go grey,
attaining a silvery appearance that many
people like.) Dark stains may be due to
mildew. Cleaning it with soap and water or
bleach will clear up the problem scrub the
surface thoroughly.
Sealing and varnishing
Seal your deck as soon as possible after
cleaning it. Consult an expert about the
various products available and how to use
them if you are not sure.
Softwoods need to be sealed as the
sealer will penetrate into the wood.
Hardwoods need to be varnished. Varnish
creates a protective sleeve over the wood.
Always remember to read the
instructions on the tin before you begin.
Work methodically so that you can go
back and apply more sealer to dull areas
where the sealer is penetrating more than
elsewhere. This is particularly important
with the first coat as it is essential
that the surface stays evenly wet for 10
minutes after application to ensure proper
penetration.
It is very important that you let each
coat dry hard before applying the next coat.
Sand lightly with fine sandpaper or steel
wool between coats. Allow 24-36 hours
after the final coat has dried before using
your deck again.
DECKING
It is important to use the same product
that was originally used on the deck as
different brands dont always work if you
put the one over another. If your plan
is to change to another brand, make
sure you rid the wood completely of the
original product.
Remember
T
M
PLASCON ADVISORY CENTRE 0860 20 40 60
www.plascon.co.za Copyright Kansai Plascon (Pty). Ltd. 2013
Plascon Woodcare Natural Deck Coating is the perfect
solution to keep decks looking naturally beautiful. This
advanced, water-based formulation is designed to penetrate
deep into the wood and refresh and hydrate the tired timber.
It protects the surface from the suns ultraviolet radiation and
seals it from moisture, minimizing cracking and mould build-
up. Natural Deck Coating is safe to use, has a low odour and
is easy to clean with cold water.
Its a natural treatment solution. Its an indulgent treat.
It will breathe life back into your timber
and enhance its natural beauty.
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L
ighting plays a vital role in the
atmosphere and functionality of
every home. With the correct type
of lighting, light fittings and globes, you
can create the desired mood in all the
different spaces in your home and save
energy at the same time.
Types of lighting
Different types of lighting serve different
purposes, including functional and
aesthetic, and should be used in places
where they are most suitable for best
effect, making your home both user-
friendly and beautiful.
A clever choice of lighting can make a
room appear larger than it actually is, add
warmth and cosiness to a space, or it can
add an element of clean minimalism to
an interior composition. Whatever kind
of lighting you choose for your home, bear
in mind that a professionally lit interior,
whether dim or bright, will truly complete
the final composition, says Melissa
Davidson from The Lighting Warehouse.
There are three basic types of indoor
lighting - ambient lighting, task lighting
and accent lighting. Melissa explains
what light fittings are best suited to each
of these and where they can be used to
best effect:
Ambient lighting
This is the lighting used to illuminate
a space, explains Melissa. Also called
general lighting, ambient lighting is
mainly cast by light fittings that are
installed in the middle of a ceiling.
These days people are spoilt for choice
as there are many types of light fittings
that can be used for this purpose, such
as downlighters, pendants, chandeliers,
ceiling flush mounts and ceiling semi
flush mounts.
LIGHTING
Look on the
bright side
Find out how to light up
your home effectively
and efficiently
Pendants and track lighting
add a modern touch to an
open-plan home
Pic courtesy of The Lighting Warehouse
Decide whether you want the light
fittings to be features or focal points in
the room or whether you want them to
be inconspicuous and simply there to
provide light in a discreet manner, and then
choose your light fittings accordingly, says
Melissa. If you want your lights to be part
of the interior dcor, remember to select
light fittings that will complement and
accentuate the style of the room or space.
Dimmer switches are always a good
idea as they will allow you to have some
control over the brightness of the light
and thus the ambience of the room,
she adds.
Task lighting
This is direct light cast for specific tasks,
such cooking, reading, working at a
desk or putting on make-up. For task
lighting to best serve its purpose, it
should be glare-free and must vividly
illuminate the area to avoid any eye
strain, explains Melissa. Most popular
for this job are spotlights, desk and floor
lamps as well as under counter lighting
in kitchens or offices.
Accent lighting
Accent lighting is perfect for illuminating
architecture, sculptures, art, water features,
indoor gardens or any other features you
may want to highlight in your home.
Picture lights, wall sconces, wall washers,
adjustable spotlights and uplighter floor
lamps are ideal for adding drama and
interest to specific spaces or objects.
Top three energy
saving globes
A judicious choice of globes is one of the
easiest ways to save energy in the home
and cut down on your lighting bill, doing
your bit for the environment at the same
time, says Melissa. Simply by purchasing
the right kind of globe, or replacing old
globes with more energy saving ones, you
can green your homes lighting.
LEDs
Light-emitting diodes (LEDs) are the
most energy saving globes available and
their components are recyclable, explains
Melissa. They use 90% less energy than
incandescent globes and because of
their lower energy consumption, there is
a lower heat build-up and thus a cooler
environment, so you save on cooling bills.
LED globes last between 20 000 to 50 000
hours and some globes are dimmable.
In places where make-
up is applied, such as
bathrooms, the lighting
should be bright and
glare free
Accent lighting is perfect for
illuminating features you may want
to highlight in your home
Remember to select
light fittings that
will complement and
accentuate the style of
the room or space
LEDs are now available in a variety of
shapes and sizes, including candle globes,
golf balls and tubes, and you can even
buy complete LED fittings, such as LED
under counter lights or dimmable LED
downlighters. Simply replace your old
halogen downlighters, incandescent strip
lights or spotlight globes with energy
saving LEDs and save on your electricity bill.
CFLs
A simple and cheap way to reduce your
lighting bill is to replace your incandescent
globes with compact fluorescent light bulbs
(CFLs), explains Melissa. They use 80% less
energy and last eight times longer than
incandescent globes. They provide a bright
light and also generate a lot less heat than
incandescent globes, which means lower
cooling bills in summer.
Like LED globes, CFLs come in a variety
of shapes and sizes, including candle
globes, golf balls and mini spiral globes to
fit almost any light fitting.
Halogen energy saving globes
These use 20-30% less energy than
an incandescent globe and are fully
dimmable with a standard dimmer switch,
says Melissa. The three main types are
household, candle and GU10 halogen
energy saving globes, making them suitable
for most light fittings.
More ways to save energy
Dimmer switches
By simply dimming your lights, you are
saving energy dimming a light by 50%
reduces the energy consumed by 40%.
Dimmer switches can be used with halogen
energy saving globes and there are now
dimmable CFL and LED globes available,
however you will need to get a special
dimmer switch that is either CFL- or LED-
compatible.
LIGHTING
These days people are spoilt for
choice as there are many types
of light fittings
Motion sensors
Ideal for outdoor security lighting, motion
sensors only switch on lights when they
detect movement and automatically switch
them off after 30 seconds to five minutes.
Motion sensors are an inexpensive and
highly functional solution, and they are
easy to install. In fact, many outdoor lights
come with built-in motion sensors, says
Melissa. They are also handy to use indoors
in places where we often forget to switch
off the light, such as in the pantry or under
the stairwell. Halogen energy saving globes
or LEDs are best for this purpose.
Occupancy sensors
Similar to motion sensors, occupancy
sensors only switch on when they sense
movement, and then switch off again
when no one is there. They are ideal for
bathrooms, pantries, dressing rooms or
passages. Halogen energy saving globes or
LEDs are suitable for these lights.
Daylight sensors
By investing in daylight sensors, daylight
sensor globes and light fittings with built-
in daylight sensors, you will save money
and increase your homes security. The
sensor allows your lights to switch on at
dusk and switch off at dawn. Halogen
energy saving globes, LEDs or CFLs can be
used with daylight sensors.
Task lighting
Relying on your task lighting can save a lot
of energy as you are concentrating light just
where you need it and reducing background
or ambient light levels, explains Melissa.
For example, installing a track of LED under
counter lights to illuminate the kitchen
table where you prepare your food negates
the need for the ceiling lights.
Go solar
Lighting up your garden at night is
wonderful for entertaining or highlighting
certain features, and will improve your
security. However, outdoor lighting can
be costly to run. Solar lights are a great
alternative the sun charges the lights
battery during the day and your solar lights
will come on when it gets dark.
Source:
The Lighting Warehouse,
www.lightingwarehouse.co.za
Use a variety of light fittings to add
character to your home, such as
downlighters, lamps and chandeliers
The 7w LED GLS globe in warm
white is ideally suited for pendants,
ceiling fittings or exterior lights
Replace your halogen
downlighters with energy
saving LEDs and save on your
electricity bill
Dimmable halogen energy saving
globes can be used in chandeliers
The Press Dimmer Switch
will dim any of your lights
Daylight sensors cause your
lights to switch on at dusk and off
again at dawn
LED spiked solar
spotlights are great for
lighting up pathways in
the garden
The Osram 4w LED
warm white candle globe
is perfect for chandeliers
where globes are exposed.
You can green your
homes lighting by
replacing old globes
with more energy
efficient ones
Pics courtesy of
The Lighting Warehouse
A
luminium gutters, copper
gutters, steel gutters, galvalume
gutters, zinc gutters and vinyl gutters
are your six main choices of gutter material.
Of all the types of gutters to choose from, there
is a very good reason why aluminium dominates the
gutter market. The metal is corrosion resistant, lightweight,
easy to work with, available in a wide range of colours and less
expensive than the other alternatives. Galvanized gutters are steel
gutters coated with a layer of zinc. This type of gutter is strong, but is
also prone to rust. Proper gutter installation is very important to ensure
proper drainage and avoid standing water in your gutters. Leaf protectors
will reduce the amount of leaves that will settle in your gutters. It is strongly
recommend that you inspect and clean galvanized gutters often to prevent
clogging and premature rusting.
MAINTENANCE
Replacing
your gutters
There are many different types of gutters
and knowing the facts about each can
help you choose the right one for
your home. In this article, we
discuss your choices, offer
some gutter maintenance
tips and show you how to
replace your gutters
All types of gutters are constructed in
one of two ways: They are either made in
sections or constructed in one seamless,
continuous piece. Sectional gutters are
sold in sections and all DIY gutter systems
are sectional. Snap-in-place connectors
join gutter sections to each other and to
the downpipes. The drawback to sectional
systems is that all those seams will
eventually leak.
Seamless gutters wont leak at the
seams simply because there are no seams.
The sections join only at inside and
outside corners. Seamless gutters, made
of aluminium, galvanized steel or copper,
are extruded to custom lengths on the job
site using a portable gutter machine. Once
you understand the pros and cons of all
the possible types of gutters and a decision
on the design of a gutter system has been
made, the next step is to decide on what
gutter colours to use, which is usually
determined by the colour of your roof and
the exterior walls of the home.
Installation
Proper gutter installation plays a very
important role in the maintenance of your
home. Most homeowners dont spend a
lot of time thinking about their gutters,
but understanding their importance may
prevent you having some costly home repair
bills in the future. Aluminium gutters are
a great rain solution product. They are low
cost, easily maintained and a long lasting
solution for many homes. They are weather
resistant and maintain their integrity in
cold climates. Seamless aluminium gutters
will not rust and have a life expectancy of
approximately 25-30 years.
Gutter hangers are brackets that
interlock into the front and back of the
gutter and are then screwed into the fascia
under the drip edge flashing. For standard
fascia gutter installations, gutter hangers,
sometimes called hidden hangers, should
be installed every metre.
Seamless aluminium gutters are roll
formed with a gutter machine at the
job site. Look for a minimum of 20-year
prorated warranty against corrosion,
blistering, peeling or flaking. The gutters
should be installed under the drip edge
flashing. The only way to be sure the gutter
is pitched toward the downpipes is to use
a level in order to maintain a slight pitch
towards the downpipes, which ensures
little or no standing water in the gutter.
A gutter installed level will drain because
water levels itself, however, you will not
have any water flow to self clean the gutter.
Too much slope does not look good and
you will lose some of the gutters holding
capacity. A very important aspect of the
gutter installation is a gutter sealant, which
is used to seal the corners and endcaps.
Downpipes
The purpose of gutter downpipes is to carry
rainwater from your gutter to ground level
and direct it away from your foundations.
Getting the water out of the gutter is
the most important thing. Remember
that gutters are only there to catch the
water, not hold it. Heavy downpours can
overwhelm a gutter system that just meets
the minimum requirements.
Decorative downpipes are becoming
more and more popular. Why not take your
plain downpipes and transform them into
attractive decorative downpipes to accent
Removing the old gutters
2
Our gutters were in a state of disrepair and
needed to be replaced
1
Make sure that you have help when removing
long lengths
3
Seamless aluminium gutters were roll formed
with a gutter machine at the job site
4
The pieces are secured together using
pop rivets
6
The downpipes and elbows arrived
preassembled and ready
5
MAINTENANCE
your rain gutter system? There are a few
ways you could add a decorative touch to
your downpipes, such as: Decorative splash
blocks, rain chains or conductor heads, also
known as collector boxes, leader heads and
scupper boxes.
The outlet from the gutter to the
downpipe can be drilled with a hole saw.
The outlet is snapped in place and then
sealed. Downpipes are secured to these
outlets, sometimes referred to as drop
outs. Using larger downpipe outlets and
sloping the gutter towards the outlets not
only allows the gutter to drain faster, but
also aids in flushing the gutter debris out
when it rains. Rainwater should ideally
be diverted a metre and a half away from
the foundation of your home by using a
splash block, downpipe extensions or an
underground drain line.
Gutter maintenance
Its easy to forget about gutter repair
until the first heavy rains. With that first
storm, any problems with your gutters
will be quite apparent. Unless you are an
experienced handyman or handywoman,
this would be a great time to schedule a
gutter repair. Even if you have gutter leaf
protection, airborne debris and seeds will
still enter the gutter system, so you should
check and clean out your gutters at least
twice a year. The most important time to
do a good gutter cleaning is late in autumn
after the trees have shed their leaves.
Gutter repair is often necessary when
gutters havent been cleaned in a long
time. The weight of the debris can cause
gutters to sag, leading to leaks. Heavy-duty
expanded metal gutter leaf screens are
the best way of stopping leaves and twigs
from entering the gutter system. If your
gutters do not drain properly, check the
gutter slope by spraying water into them
with a garden hose. The water should flow
smoothly towards the downpipe. If it just
sits there, the gutter needs to be adjusted.
The gutter should be adjusted to remove
any high or low spots that prevent the flow
of water towards the downpipe.
First a pilot hole is drilled between the two
pieces being joined
7
Then the pop rivets are put in
8
Measurements are carefully taken before the
gutters are formed
9
Making sure the downpipe fits Installing using pop rivets
The downpipes are then fixed to the wall
Airborne debris and
seeds collect in the
gutter system, so
you should clean
out your gutters at
least twice a year
An X-cut is made where the downpipes are to
be installed
10
11 12
13
After the gutters are clean, perform a
gutter inspection, checking for any possible
gutter repairs such as holes, dents or
missing gutter sealer. Check for loose, bent
or missing gutter hangers or spikes. Gutters
that are not properly secured to the house,
i.e. improper gutter screws or gutters
attached to rotten wood, will eventually not
support their own weight.
If you have a clogged downpipe, run
a garden hose down from the top of the
downpipe, turn the water on full blast
and hopefully the clog will be cleared. If
this does not work, try using a plumbers
snake. If all this fails to remove the clog,
the downpipe will have to be removed and
taken apart to find the clog. Usually the
clog will be in one of the elbows.
Regular gutter repair and cleaning
are required for proper function, but the
outside surface should also be cleaned
for good curb appeal. Simple cleaning
procedures should be performed on a yearly
basis to reduce the build-up of deposits.
For surface soil and stains, such as those
resulting from industrial fallout, tree sap,
insecticides or chimney fumes, use ordinary
non-abrasive household detergent. The
solution should be applied to the soiled
surface by means of a soft rag, sponge
or soft bristle brush with a gentle
rubbing action.
Source: www.rain-gutter-guide.com
Confirming that the correct cuts have
been made
After being measured, the barge boards
are cut to the correct size and shape
Once installed, the barge boards are painted to
cover up the screws and any dirty fingerprints
The completed gutters give the home a much
cleaner, more appealing look
Gutter safety
Of all the household chores that we
do, probably none is as dangerous
as gutter repair and cleaning. If you
decide to take on the job of cleaning
your gutters, make sure to follow
these safety rules. Plan your gutter
cleaning when someone else is
at home or let a neighbour know
what you are doing. A stepladder
requires level ground support on all
four of its side rails. Make sure your
stepladder is spread fully open and
the spreaders are locked. To prevent
tipping the ladder over sideways due
to overreaching, the ladder should be
set up close to the work.
Never place your ladder on an
unstable base in order to obtain
additional height. Do not stand
higher than the step indicated on the
label marking the highest standing
level. Always have three points of
contact with the ladder. That means
two feet and one hand or two hands
and one foot.
You can prevent needless gutter
repairs by never resting your ladder
on the gutter. While performing
gutter repairs, you should always
wear gloves to prevent being cut by
sharp metal edges and to prevent
contact with moist and rotten debris,
which is a good place for bacteria to
grow. It is always a good idea to wear
a dust mask while cleaning out your
gutters, especially if you have allergy
problems. When you disrupt the
gutter debris, you also disrupt a lot of
dust particles and mould spores.
Attaching the barge boards to the roof
14
15
16
17 18
You can prevent needless gutter
repairs by never resting your
ladder on the gutter
M
y wife, Christelle, and I recently
moved from busy and vibrant
Cullinan to Kuruman in the
Northern Cape. As newly-weds, turning
our house into a home became a
priority and on a budget, I must add.
A new dining table had been on
the very important list for a while, but
from the woodworkers showrooms of
Knysna to the local Bears, it seemed we
would have dinners on the floor like the
Japanese for eternity.
One afternoon Christelle found the
table and eight chair set in a corner of
a pawnshop. Up to that point, the Eye
of Kuruman, a mineral spring, had been
about the most exciting topic in our
home. All this changed in the swipe of a
dusty duster and a Sold sticker covered
the set within minutes. The battered
puppy came home to the Koekemoere.
Within days the restoration projected
commenced. We knew it would not
be an easy task, but we also knew we
wanted to do this. The wood had been
bumped and dented in various places,
but more importantly the wood still
had a protective layer of varnish on it,
protecting it against wood borers and
other biological elements.
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READERS PROJECT
By Willie Koekemoer
Ashes to ashes, dust to dust,
a jewel rises
from the rust
Sometimes you see something and, like the
weakest puppy from the litter, you pity it and
want to be the hero who saves it. That is how
I saw a battered dining table in a Kuruman
pawn shop window
The refurbished
dining table
The entire table was not originally
put together by a few wood screws,
but with rather crafty engineering.
The top is about 50mm thick and
the rest of the support table a good
150mm thick, as if originally designed
for a veterinarian, the kind who would
expect to make an elephant lie on it
for examination, perfect for newly-
weds.
The entire table can be taken
apart into its individual parts without
loosening a single screw, but only
various wedges. These needed some
motivation from a rubber hammer
to get going. Taking the entire table
apart made the sanding down process
much easier, but not before sanding
the top first.
Step-by-step guide
Step 1: I started with the tabletop. My
small electric orbital sander with 100-
grit sandpaper got the dust going.
I was originally scared the varnish
would frequently block the paper, but
it seems the varnish was so dry that it
was like sanding dried wood.
Step 2: A belt sander would probably
do a much quicker job on the larger
flat areas, but I dont have one so the
orbital sander had to do. A 100-grit
did a good job, so there wasnt a need
to go for a coarser paper. This would
require sanding down from 80- to
100- to 120-grit to steel wool, in any
case. Once the top and sides were
done with 100-grit, I immediately did
the 120-grit and finished with the
steel wool before moving on.
Step 3: I never wanted the table
spotless, so instead of sanding it to a
100% smooth and clean surface, I left
some of the marks. It makes the job
easier, but I told Christelle it is part
of the tables character. The legs were
more difficult to sand with all the
corners, holes and curves, so they were
done with the electric sander as far as
possible before I rolled up my sleeves
and got those hard-to-reach places
with my shoulder power.
Step 4: Next were a few rest days and
then the leg supports. Leaving work
for later is always difficult, especially
if progress slowed down a bit it is
hard to get going again, so it is best
to get the work done sooner rather
than later.
Step 5: Last to be sanded were all the
wedges and the wooden handles that
The initial work over the large
flat area was quick
I started with a
100-grit paper
This is how the table is kept together
kept the top in place. The round handles
were extremely difficult to sand and it was
a tedious job, but I eventually got them
done, one by one.
Step 6: After three weekends of work, it was
time for the table to be put together. But
first I had to look for any spots where dirty
fingers might have touched and give them
a quick work over with the steel wool.
Step 7: Before I applied any sealer, I cleaned
the entire table, all still in its various parts.
A wipe with a cloth did the trick. Next,
I cleaned out the entire garage, swept,
vacuumed and closed all the windows and
doors. The garage was dust proof and I
could start with the sealing.
Step 8: After much debate about what
oil sealer to use, I settled on Woodoc 10, a
product that I know and have used before.
I used a good synthetic brush that doesnt
lose its bristles easily. The first coat went
on with a saturated brush. The wood was
thirsty and the sealer penetrated quickly, so
I kept on applying until the wood seemed
satisfied. Afterwards I cleaned the brush
with turpentine and left it to dry to be
used again.
Step 9: I left the table to dry properly for a
week, although 24 hours would have been
enough. I then smoothed the table with
steel wool, wiped it clean and applied a
second coat. A day or three later, a last coat
followed. In all, I used about 2 litres.
READERS PROJECT
This is the underside of the tabletop
The top ready to be sealed The supports about to be sealed
One of the family dogs, Windhoek, found this
project just as interesting
The final topcoat drying before the reassembly
Note the large supports for the table
The first coat the
wood was thirsty
Readers share their time saving, space saving
or innovative ideas
IDEAS
Congratulations to Thabochi
Chilembo who wins a Triton
MOF001 1400w Dual Mode
Precision Plunge Router
Send your bright ideas to The Home Handyman Bright Ideas,
PO Box 650484, Benmore 2010 or email:
editorial@homehandyman.co.za. Please include your
phone number and physical address during office hours.
S h a r e y o u r i d e a s !
A 32-piece HSS tap and die set in a steel case from Vermont
Alternative uses
for a vuvuzela
Some items in life just have
101 uses such as the humble
vuvuzela. Once the 2010 Soccer
World Cup was done and
dusted, my vuvuzela was used
to chase pigeons away and
even sometimes to annoy the
neighbours during rugby time. I
even tried getting different tones
from the vuvuzela, but that was
a no-go.
Most of us DIYers have a
couple of odd nuts, bolts and screws in a jar or
two, but we usually struggle to get these small
items back into the jar after pouring it out to find
that that one screw we require. The light went on
and I decided to use my vuvuzela to make things a
bit easier. I cut it in half and now use it as a funnel
when pouring the nuts and bolts back into their
respective jars. Goodbye my dear vuvuzela; hello
my great vuvafunnel.
Thabochi Chilembo, Welkom
Second chance for
a cordless drill
I took a 12V drill driver whose batteries had stopped
charging and converted it so it could be powered
by an external power source. I took the battery pack apart and
drilled a hole through the bottom and inserted a cable through
it. I removed all the cells from the pack and then drilled small
holes through the contacts that were left in the battery pack
housing and connected the cables to them. On the other end I
fitted crocodile clamps to allow me to connect the battery pack
housing. This way I can still use the drill with a normal battery
pack and I can connect it to my car battery in an emergency.
This helps a lot as I am a handyman and when there is no power
around and the batteries get drained, I can still use the drill.
Thabochi Chilembo, Welkom
WINNING
LETTER
W
IN
!
I
was recently approached by a beekeeper
for help with building wooden beehives.
A beehive is basically a box and requires
four corner joints. The preferred joint (see
main photo above) for exterior use is a
finger joint (also called a box joint or comb
joint). It consists of a series of interlocking
fingers that give the joint a high degree of
mechanical strength. More importantly, the
faces of the fingers (marked with an F in
the photo) provide face-grain-to-face-grain
gluing areas. Collectively this is a large area
and after gluing the resultant joint is very
strong. The joint is a little tricky to make,
but there is no doubt that this is one of the
strongest ways to build a box. If accurately
cut and glued with waterproof glue, the
joint will not fail prematurely.
I had been meaning to make a jig to cut
finger joints for some time and this request
was the impetus I needed. I set out to build
a simple but accurate jig. There are basically
two ways to machine cut (I wouldnt try by
hand) a finger joint. The first is on a table
saw fitted with a dado stack. The second is
using a router table: This gives cleaner cuts
in the same amount of time. I selected the
latter. My router table jig consists of three
components: A sled with a backing board,
a pair of guide strips which are clamped to
the router table and a facing board (one for
each finger size) which incorporates the all-
important indexing key.
The sled is a 400mm x 400mm piece of
6mm MDF. The backing board is a 400mm
x 120mm piece of laminated chipboard
attached to the one edge of the sled. I used
a pair of brackets and screws (see photo 2).
Two M6 wood inserts (often abbreviated
to woodsert) are fitted to the back inside
face of the backing board. These are used to
attach the facing board. A pair of M6 T-nuts
would work equally well.
The two guide strips are 100mm wide
pieces of 6mm MDF cut to the width of
A WOODWORKERS DIARY
Beautiful
locked fingers
Denis Lock
describes how to
cut a finger joint
Sled
2 3
Guides
the router table (600mm in my case).
Photo 3 shows the guide strips clamped to
the router table with the sled that slides
between them. It is important that the
edges of the guide strips are dead straight
and that the edges of the sled are straight
and parallel. Spend the time needed with
a long flat sanding block to achieve this
condition. The sled must slide smoothly
between the guides with no play. As shown
in photo 4, the front edge of the sled must
be square to the guides.
The fingers can be square or
rectangular. I think that rectangular fingers
look better: I aim for about three-quarters
of the thickness of the stock. Lets go ahead
and use a 12mm diameter straight router
bit and cut a joint in 16mm thick stock. The
facing board is also a piece of 400mm x
120mm laminated chipboard. It is drilled
and countersunk so that it can be attached
to the backing board with two M6 machine
screws. Note that a 6mm gap is left
underneath it. Before doing so, it is marked
as shown in photo 5: Four lines 12mm (the
size of the chosen router bit) apart. Two of
them are 6mm each side of the centre line
of the facing board. Line up the two left
marks on the facing board with the router
(photo 5). Hold the sled firmly in place and
attach the two guides snugly at each side
of the sled.
One more piece of 6mm MDF is needed:
A 400mm x 70mm sled extension. Slip the
sled extension (photo 6) under the facing
board and set the bit height at 2mm (I used
a 2mm plastic shim). Remove the shim,
switch the router on and cut (by moving
the sled forward) a 2mm x 12mm groove
in the sled extension (top half photo 7).
Use a stop clamped to the table to control
The finger joint
is a little tricky to
make, but there
is no doubt that
this is one of the
strongest ways to
build a box
4
6
7
5
Must be
square
Indexing key position
Setting to cut groove
Groove and slot cut
as shown in photo 9 (the router bit must just kiss the
spacer block). Use a piece of the same 12mm x 12mm strip
that the indexing key was cut from as a spacer. Clamp the
guides and check that the sled slides smoothly.
We are now ready to cut a finger joint. Change the
height of the router bit to match the thickness of the
stock being used. Line up one of the box sides as shown
in photo 10. Hold it firmly against the indexing pin and
the facing board, switch on the router and move the sled
smoothly forward. Use a stop to control the depth the bit
cuts into the facing board: 8mm is enough. Rotate the
piece just cut through 180 and place it over the indexing
key. Butt the second piece of stock against the first (left
side of photo 11) and cut the first slot in the second piece
(right side of photo 11). Turn the first piece back through
180 and overlap the two pieces as shown in the left
side of photo 12 and cut the second slot in both pieces.
Reposition as shown in the right side of photo 12 and cut
the third slot. Repeat this process until all slots are cut.
Photos 11 and 12 were posed without hands for the sake
of clarity. Hold the boards firmly and make slow, smooth
cuts. Be particularly careful on the final cut of a joint.
Practise on some scraps of soft pine.
The completed joint is shown in photo 13. The slots
have been cut a fraction deep and the fingers project
the length of the
cut. Remove the sled
extension, change the bit
height to 16mm and cut a slot in the
facing board (bottom half photo 7).
The next step is to make the indexing
key. This is a short length of a dense wood
machined to 12mm x 12mm (the size of the
chosen router bit). I used hard maple. The
key must be a snug fit in the slots machined
above (photo 7). If you have a thicknesser,
this is a relatively simple task. If you dont
have a thicknesser, be prepared to do some
hand sanding to achieve a good fit. Glue a
length of the 12mm x 12mm into the sled
extension (photo 8) and screw the sled
extension to the bottom of the facing block.
Loosen the sled guides and line up the sled
WOODWORKERS DIARY
the length of the
cut. Remove the sled
extension, change the bit
height to 16mm and cut a slot in the
facing board (bottom half photo 7).
The next step is to make the indexing
key. This is a short length of a dense wood
machined to 12mmx 12mm(the size of the
8
9
Indexing key
Key plus spacer
10
11
12
First cut
Second cut
Third and fourth cuts
slightly. Sand them flush after assembly. If the set-up shown in
photo 9 was accurately done, the joint will fit snugly and not fall
apart under gravity (photo 14). The joint in photo 15 was not cut all
that accurately. You are probably asking where the micro-adjust
facility is on this jig? Micro adjustment is simply achieved
by small repositioning of the two guide strips. If they are moved
in the direction T (photo 16), the joint will be tighter; if moved in
the direction L, the joint will be looser. The geometry of the router
table and the guide strips is to our benefit. On my router table the
following is true: If the clamp at A (photo 16) is loosened and the
guide strip pivoted around the clamp at C, then the movement at
B is one-third of that at A. I use what I call a
guide registration block and a thin card shim
to achieve micro adjustment. Lets assume
that the fingers are too small by 0,1mm and
the joint is loose. Place a business card shim
(0.3mm) against the right guide and clamp a
registration block up hard against the shim
(left side of photo 17). Loosen the clamp on
the guide strip, remove the shim, swivel the
guide strip up hard against the registration
block and re-clamp the guide strip. Finally
remove the registration block and adjust the
left-hand guide to be snug against the sled.
The fingers will now be 0.1mm thicker.
This project was motivated by somebody wanting to make
beehives, but the joint has many other uses. I have made four
facing boards to cut 6mm, 10mm, 12mm and 16mm fingers.
These are bolted to the backing board as needed. Photo 18 shows
a keepsake box made with 6mm finger joints. What about toy
boxes, trays, linen chests, boxes for expensive instruments and
drawers? Photo 19 (courtesy of Alexander Wildervanck Furniture)
shows exposed finger joints on the drawers of a bedside pedestal.
To quote Alexander: Traditional joinery set in contemporary
form removes that industrial mass production look weve been
inundated with over the last few decades. Use finger joints on one
of your projects and give it a different look.
13 14 15
16
17
18 19
Finished joint
Guide geometry
A good fit A not so good fit
Micro adjustment
A keepsake box
Finger joints are
useful for many
items, not just
beehives
WOODWORKERS CORNER Your guide to the world of woodworking
Hardware Centre, Randburg held its last
show for 2013 on Saturday 30 November.
We popped in and joined the festivities.
John Young with a butchers
block that he made
The Makita team making
customers aware of their
latest products
Some DeWalt power
tools on display
THE HOME HANDYMAN JANUARY 2014 55 THE HOME HANDYMAN JANUARY 2014 55
Gerhard Wong carries
out demonstrations using
the latest lathe from Jet
The Bosch compound mitre
saw every woodworker
wants in their workshop
John Young demonstrating the
how to use the Triton table saw
Bruwer Leykauf shows off
his skills on the router lathe
The Woodworkers Corner has been
turned into a bragging space
WOODWORKERS CORNER Your guide to the world of woodworking
Please send us pictures of your
projects. Write a caption with your
name, inspiration, type of wood, etc.
and send it to editorial@
homehandyman.co.za
Woodworking associations
Woodworking associations details
are available on our website at
www.homehandyman.co.za
A gravity car, originally
built and auctioned for
charity
All these items
were made on
the scroll saw and
lathe and made
great Christmas
presents
Biltong cutters made by John Young
The New Router Handbook
Author: Patrick Spielman
Publisher: Sterling Publishing Co. Inc
The definitive guide to the tool that revolutionised woodworking has been
dramatically updated, expanded and totally revised to include the most complete,
up-to-date information available on the router! First reviewed in 2010, this book,
from the internationally acclaimed author Patrick Spielman, is the ultimate workshop
bench reference, detailing all the techniques, from basic to advanced. The huge
variety of routers, jigs and bits are comprehensively reviewed. Also included are:
Safety techniques and sharpening and maintenance procedures for bits.
Different routers and their capabilities.
Techniques for making and fitting exact joints with a handheld router and router
table.
Techniques for routing wood signs, using templates and patterns to create designs in wood and for
routing non-wooden material.
Commercial router tables and the ultimate router table that you can design yourself.
Details, tips and techniques that only the master of the router can provide.
Money-saving tips for making ingenious jigs and fixtures that will be invaluable for special or
unusual operations.
The specialised skills that every craftsman wants are now embodied in this one book. It is 384 pages
and is a must for every woodworker.
Viv Martin from Hardware Centre reviews the latest in
woodworking literature
BOOK SHELF
For more information,
contact Hardware Centre
on 011-791-0844 (Randburg)
or 021-421-7358 (Cape Town)
20th birthday bash
The Home Handyman magazine celebrated its 20th birthday
last November. Launched in November 1993 it has been
published by the independent Home Handyman Publishing
company for the past 13 years. This picture shows the team
who helps to get each issue into your hands.
Back row from left, Michelle Funke, associate publisher; Lourens
Prinsloo, associate publisher; Allan Swart, publisher; Rose Johnston-
Fitch, layout designer; Lynne Yates, sub-editor; and Gina Hartoog,
editorial contributor
From front left to right, Debbie Heard (standing), advertising
representative; Sarah Moodley, subscriptions manager; Shelagh Page,
advertising representative; Loren Shirley-Carr, sub-editor; Roelof
Strydom, assistant editor and in front, Johann Stadler, editor
Pic by Richard Thomas
C/o Malibongwe & Rocky street
Randburg
(011) 791 0844
14 Bree Street
Cape Town
(021) 421 7362
Speed Range 2504000rpm
Forward & Reverse Switch
419mm Between Centres
3/4HP, 220v Motor
Variable Speed
2MT Hollow Tailstock
Standard Equipment: 80mm Face Plate, 150mm Tool Rest. 2MT Live & Drive Centre & Knock Out Bar.
Oponal Extras: Dedicated 4 Jaw Chuck & 625mm Bed Extension.
300mm Bowl
Turning Capacity
1 x 8 TPI Thread
Nova Comet II Lathe
Missing an issue?
How to install laminated flooring
Build a wooden bird feeder
Weld your own security gate
F
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2
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8
Take care of outdoor timber
Make a wooden mitre saw stand
Discover arc welding
M
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Create a grand entrance
Make a wine bottle caddy
The lowdown on welding joints
A
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M
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2
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Make metalworking jigs
Construct a wooden
hexagon table
Fillet welding techniques
Make an archway
Make solar electricity work
for you
Pathway ideas
O
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Water features
Build a brick perimeter wall
Braze welding explained
N
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Natural stone flooring
Energy efficient lighting
Make an adjustable roller stand
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Installing basins
Make a wine rack
All about generators
J
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DIY kitchen installation
Installing drywall partitions
Replacing a glass window
J
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Patio paving
Weld a fire hearth
Mounting a floating shelf
A
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Make an outdoor lounger
Solar geysers
How to hang and revamp doors
S
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Order these and more online on www.homehandyman.co.za
New life for your bathrooms
Make an oak dressing mirror
Working with non-ferrous metals
M
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Build your own garden shed
Make an aluminium case
Make a telephone table
A
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Efficient MIG welding
Clad your fireplace
Make a wooden drill tray for
your ladder
M
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All about paving
TIG welding explained
Make a wooden push cart
J
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Do a kitchen makeover
Waterproofing outside areas
Turning a hollow lamp stand
J
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Build a boma braai
Build a workbench
All about boreholes
A
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Build your own deck
Damp-proofing your home
Construct a picnic table
S
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Build a garden arch bench
Make a hosepipe hanger
Construct a stylish headboard
O
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Build a racing car bed
Make a metal bench
Protect your wood against bugs
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Construct a jungle gym
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Lighting trends and ideas
Make a hammock stand
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Switch to biofuels
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Offer; PO Box 650484, Benmore, 2010
or fax to 086 551 0749 / 011 704 3962.
For enquires call 011 462 5645.
Allow 6 weeks for delivery!
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entrance w
ith lights,
security and a
beautiful doorw
ay
Skylights
Skylight options and installation
Rental units
Who is responsible
for what if you
stay in or own a
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Paving
Revive old paving and fix broken pavers
S
aturday morning: I just got back from 702 Talk
Radio, having shared my infinite wisdom on
DIY matters, leading listeners up the proverbial
garden path it seems, as I was about to embark
on one of those journeys myself. Make no mistake,
planting a seedling in our garden takes a certain
degree of determination, let alone digging a pond.
We live against a rocky hill and I am sure this is the
spot where David and Goliath had a falling-out. You
do not dig a hole here, you chisel one. The old saying
Experience is what you get when you get what you
dont want seemed to ring true in this case.
Off I went with spade and pick in hand. At the
very outset of the project, I encountered my first
problem tree roots as big as my leg (now there is
an axe in the picture not a standard item on the
list of tools required to build a pond but this was
not going to deter me in the least).
After three hours of digging, chopping and
chiselling, I realised I was in some unchartered
territory. It was time to reconsider the size and
depth of the pond. One thing was certain; it was
not going to be a koi pond. After a day of pure hell
I had a hole that resembled the track mark left by
a medium size truck. Pride comes before a fall, so
steadfast and determined I slogged on the next
day; it is true to say I did not rest that day. Finally
it was time to plaster this embryonic koi pond. It
was at this point that the inevitable happened
Kaeren (my wife) voiced her modest opinion on my
construction site. A little voice inside me told me
to take her advice and cover the hole, but this voice
was overruled by a far larger voice attached to an
even larger ego. Plastering was to go ahead, against
even my better judgement, which did not count for
much at this stage.
Using some of the rocks I had excavated as
eye-catching objects around the edge, I finished
off the pond. A second plea by my wife to fill in
the eyesore was not received well at all and was
followed by a lengthy discussion of my abilities as a
pond builder.
A week later, the concrete had cured and it
was time to open the sluice gates and flood the
pond. Even at this late stage of the game, I was still
trying to convince myself that the muddy mosquito
hatchery in front of me was going to have a
magnificent impact on the ecosystem and positively
change the landscape for centuries to come.
The so-called pond graced our garden for some
time. It was like having a family member in prison;
you know about it, but you dont talk about it. Then,
one day I came home and noticed that the pond
had been filled in. Not a word was ever mentioned
until the writing of this column.
TAILPIECE
Eye-catching
or eyesore?
I was trying to convince myself
that the muddy mosquito hatchery
was going to have a magnificent
impact on the ecosystem
Some time ago Reuben the
Screwman had the ingenious idea
of building a fish pond around a
tree in his front garden. Just how
difficult could it be? Let him tell
you almost impossible!
has gone digital!
The Home Handyman Magazine has e has e has as s
now also made a digital version ssion ion
available, so you can choose between tween tw twweeeen
the printed or digital versions. ns. ns.
Single copies and subscriptions are s are s ar arre e
available for download
at discounted rates.
Latest digital issue
@ R 24.00 incl VAT
(25% less than printed issues)
1 year digital subscription
@ R 184.00 incl VAT
(32% less than a printed
subscription for 11 issues)
NB: Subscriptions for the digital version can only be done on
www.mysubs.co.za and payment must be made to them.
For further information contact 011-462-5645 or email sarah@homehandyman.co.za

The Home Handyman - January 2014

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