1

TRAINING MATERIAL ON SIMPLE METHODS OF POND

CONSTRUCTION



























FAO Project Support to Fishery and Aquaculture Management in the Kyrgyz Republic
GCP/KYR/003/FIN

Training Material Series 2







2

TRAINING MATERIAL ON SIMPLE METHODS OF POND
CONSTRUCTION




















Prepared by
Sunil N. Siriwardena
International Team Leader















Training Material Series 2
(Distribution free of charge)


FAO Project Support to Fishery and Aquaculture Management in the Kyrgyz Republic
(GCP/KYR/003/FIN)
Funded by the Government of Finland


Bishkek, Kyrgyz Republic 2011
3

I NFORMATI ON TO THE USERS

A) For whom?

This training material is primarily intended for farmers, extension workers and technicians to
help farmers to use it by themselves or extension workers and technicians to use in their
extension work to train farmers. The training material can be used by a farmer as self guide or
by a trainer as a trainers guide to train farmers.

B) In what form it is prepared and how it can be used?

The training material is prepared to answer many questions that may farmers need answers.
Therefore, this training material can be used as a whole or as selected parts to address farmers
need in a training programme.

C) What farmers, extension workers and technicians will learn from this training
material?

This training material is aiming at providing information to develop skills of farmers,
extension workers and technicians in selection of a suitable site, design criteria and
construction methods as they are vital for good pond construction. Often farmers seek
information and advice to solve problems related to pond designing and construction.
Therefore, the training material includes following aspects of site selection, designing and
pond construction.

1. How to select a suitable site to construct a pond for fish culture

Why site selection is so important?
What are the important factors a farmer should consider in selection of a suitable site for
pond construction?

a) Space availability and topography

b) Water supply and water quality
i) Water source
ii) How to estimate the amount of water needed to operate your fish pond?
iii) Water quality:

c) Soil quality
i) Physical quality:
How do you determine the adequacy of clay in soil for construction of ponds?
How do you determine the ability of soil to hold water in your pond?

ii) Chemical quality:
How do you measure acidity?
What is acid sulphate soil?
What is potential acid sulphate soil?
How do you identify potential acid sulphate soils?

2. What are the important factors a farmer should consider during designing of ponds?
4


a) How to select and prepare the pond layout design?
b) How to align the pond direction
c) How to protect your ponds from flood
d) How to design the pond bottom
e) How to position inlets and outlets?
f) What are the types of dikes?
g) What is the suitable shape of the dike?
h) How to determine the dike dimensions?

How to determine the dike height?
How to select side slope, base and crown width of a dike?
How to determine the base width of the dike?
How to determine the top width or the crown width of the dike?
How to use the trapezoidal equation to determine the dike height, top width,
dike base and side slopes?

3. How to do the actual construction of ponds?

a) Preparation of the site
What are the factors should be considered before excavation?
How to prepare the site before construction?
b) How to mark the boundaries of the pond and construct the clay core (cut-off trench)?
c) How to excavate the soil?
d) How to Pile up soil to construct dikes?
How to maintain a uniform dike height along entire dike length?
How to stabilise the dike slopes?
e) How to plan fish pond construction
4. What are the material and structures you can use as supply and drainage canals, inlets and
outlets?
i) Pipes
- Simple pipe outlet
- Stand pipe outlet

ii) Open gutters
iii) Earthen canals
iv) Gates

Components of a sluice monk outlet:
What are the important points to know when designing outlets?

5. How to supply water to ponds from the water source?


5

D) Some calculations based on formula are given in this material for the understanding of
the Extension workers/trainers and technicians and such formula should be used in the
training only if the target group is able to grasp such information.

E) Where calculations are given, rules-of-thumb are also included for the easy
application by some farmer groups instead of using calculations.

F) The users of this training material is recommended to read the following training
material which are also use for some information in preparation of this training
material.

Handbook on small-scale freshwater fish farming. Training Series 24, Food and
Agriculture Organisation of the United Nations, Rome 1994.

FAO training series on pond construction for freshwater fish culture (FAO 1995)






























6

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
The author is indebted to the Government of Finland who provided the financial support for
the FAO project Support to Fishery and Aquaculture Management in the Kyrgyz Republic
(GCP/KYR/003/FIN) which enabled printing of this training material to distribute among
farmers and trainers. Specific thanks are due to Ms. Aijan Kydyralieva, the project translator,
for translating the original English version into Russian Language, Mr. Kuvanych Satybekov
and Mr. Mamytbek Omursakov for assisting the translator with technical terms for translation
and Mr. Bakyt Kulov, the project web Designer for art work of the cover page and drawings
in the training material.

The author further gratefully acknowledge the support and encouragement given by a number
of staff of FAO, including Mr. Mustapha Sinaceur and Mr. Raymon Van Anrooy, FAO
Aquaculture and Fishery Officer, who was the Lead Technical Officer of the project, (FAO
Sub-regional Office for Central Asia, Ms. Dinara Rakhmanova (Assistant FAO
Representative in Kyrgyz Republic and Ms. Mairam Sarieva and Ms Olimpia Adambaeva
(FAO project GCP/KYR/003/FIN staff).




























7

1. HOW TO SELECT A SUITABLE SITE TO CONSTRUCT A POND
FOR FISH CULTURE

Why site selection is so important?

The first step or the most important preconstruction activity is to select a correct site as
careful site selection is a pre-requisite in pond construction. Improper site selection may lead
to:
difficulties in holding water in the pond,
high seepage,
dike erosion,
low productivity of the pond, resulting low yields and economic loss
inability to drain water completely, and
difficulties in harvesting.


What are the important factors a farmer should consider in selection of a suitable site
for pond construction?

There are several factors a farmer should consider in selection of a suitable site. The most
important are:

a) space availability and topography of the site,
b) water supply and quality, and
c) soil quality.

a) Space availability and topography

The site should at least have a space of 200 m
2
to construct a pond.
It is better to select flat land or lands with a slight gradient.
Sites with slight gradients (0.5 to 3 percent is better. Avoid sites with gradients more
than 5 percent) have the advantage of obtaining water into the pond and drain water
out from the pond by gravity.
Try to avoid areas with large undulations and rocks and with large trees. This type of
areas will increase the construction cost and also prevent good sunlight into the pond.

b) Water supply and water quality

i) Water source

The site should be adjacent to or in close proximity to a suitable water source in order to fill
the pond easily.

The source of water should have adequate amount of water with required quality to
supply water into the pond throughout the year or at least throughout grater part of the
year.
The water should not be acidic and should be free from pollutants such as waste and
pesticides.
Streams, large rivers, small rivers, lakes and reservoirs can be used as water sources.
8

Stream and river water is generally rich in dissolved oxygen than lakes and reservoirs.
With respect to state of pollution all these water sources can have same pollution
problems, but reservoirs and lakes are relatively slow than streams and rivers in
recovering from the pollution state.

ii) How to estimate the amount of water needed to operate your fish pond?

You need an idea about the following aspects to estimate the required quantity of
water to operate your fish pond.

Pond volume:

If your pond is 20m in length and 15m in width, your pond has an area of 300m
2
(20m
x 15m).















If you need an average 1.2m depth of water in your pond to culture fish, you need a
360m
3
(300m x 1.2m) of volume of water in your pond











You need to maintain this depth of water in your pond to culture your fish. Then you
need to know roughly how much water is seeping through your soil and how much
water evaporates from your pond. If you construct your bunds properly compacted
there will be very little water loss through bunds. Then you need to calculate only the
amount loss through your pond bottom. The water loss through pond bottom seepage
is dependent on the type of soil.


20m
15m
Average depth
of water 1.2m
9















Natural soil type Seepage losses (mm/day)

Sand 25.0 250.0
Sandy loam 13.0 76.0
Loam 8.0 20.0
Clayey loam 2.5 15.0
Loamy clay 0.25 5.0
Clay 1.25 10.0


Source: FAO 1981


Example to calculate water loss through bottom seepage:

If you have a pond of 1000 m
2
surface area and your pond bottom soil is clayey loam, the
seepage loss from clayey loam is between 2.5 15.0 mm/day. If you take the average, it is
8.75 mm/day or 0.00875 m/day. Therefore through a 1000 m
2
area the bottom seepage will be
0.00875 x 1500 = 13.125 m
3
/day

















Water loss through bottom
seepage
Water loss through evaporation
10

iii) Water quality:

The most important water quality parameters in freshwater ponds are temperature, pH
value, dissolved oxygen

Temperature influences almost all the physiological activities of fish/shrimp such as
respiration, growth, feeding, moulting, disease resistance.

- In general the suitable range for tropical fish is 25 to 30
0
C.

The Dissolved oxygen in water is one of the most important water quality parameter
to maintain a healthy pond environment.

- The dissolved oxygen level of 5.0 to 6.0 mg/litre is better for many fish.

pH value will tell you whether water is acidic or otherwise (basic). The pH of pond
water is a good indication of health of fish and pond environment.

- For most of fish a pH value between 6-8.5 is better.


c) Soil quality

Soil quality should be considered in two ways

i). Physical quality, and
ii). Chemical quality

i) Physical quality:

Soil has particles of various sizes, namely, sand, silt and clay. Among these three
types sand is the largest and clay is the finest. The relative amount (percentages) of
these three sizes is known as soil texture.

- Pond soil should have enough clay to hold water and prevent erosion of pond
dike.
- 100% clay is not suitable for pond construction, since the pond dikes crack
when expose to sunlight.
- Once the dikes are cracked, they get weak and water may leak out.

How do you determine the adequacy of clay in soil for construction of ponds?

Test 1:
Take a handful of soil and wet it, so that it begins to stick together without sticking to
your hand.
Squeeze it hard, then open your hand.
If the soil retains the shape of your hand, there is probably enough clay in it to build a
pond.
If the soil does not retain the shape of your hand, there is too much sand in it.
11

Test 2:
Take a handful of moist soil and squeeze it into a ball
Throw the ball into the air about 50 cm and then catch it
If the ball falls apart, it is poor soil with too much of sand
If the ball sticks together, it is good soil with enough clay in it


Test 3:
Take a handful of moist soil and roll it between your palms and fingers to make like a
thread
Try to bend it and make it to a circle
If the thread breaks into parts before without form into a circle, it is poor soil with too
much of sand
It it forms circle, it is good soil with enough clay in it






How do you determine the ability of soil to hold water in your pond?

Dig a hole/pit as deep as your waist
Early in the morning fill it with water to the top of the hole/pit
In the evening you will notice some of the water have absorbed into the soil and the
water level has gone down
Then fill the hole/pit with water again to the top and cover the hole/pit opening with
some leafy branches or some boards
Next day examine the water level in the morning. If most of the water is still in the
hole/pit, the soil is good to hold water in your pond


ii) Chemical quality:

Your pond soil should not be acidic
Acidic-soils reduce the pond productivity. For example growth of algae, which is
natural food for many fish and essential for a good pond environment, may be greatly
reduced.
Acidic-soils make the pond water acidic
Acidic-water retards growth of fish and causes stress situation favouring infections
and diseases.

How do you measure acidity?

Soils may have acidic or opposite of acidic condition
This opposite of acid condition is termed as alkaline or basic condition.
Some soils are neither acidic nor alkaline. Such soil condition is called neutral
condition.
12

The measure of this soil condition is expressed by pH value. The pH value varies
from 0 to 14
pH value 7 indicates neutral condition.
Values smaller than 7 indicate acidic condition and values grater than 7 indicate
alkaline condition.
Smaller the value below 7 greater the acidity
Higher the value above 7 greater the alkalinity.







Testing soil pH with beetle leave juice:

Make a soil suspension by mixing one part of soil with two parts of distilled water or
pure rainwater directly collected in a clean container or battery water, which can be
purchased from a fuel filling station.
Extract beetle juice by chewing or grinding beetle leaves
Add juice into the soil suspension
If the water in soil suspension turns remains red indicates non-acidic.
If the water in soil suspension turns black indicates acidic.

Testing soil with litmus paper:

What is litmus paper: Paper strips to determine the pH of a water or water
solution/suspension

Make a soil suspension by mixing one part of soil with two parts of distilled water or
pure rainwater directly collected in a clean container or battery water, which can be
purchased from a fuel filling station.
Partly dip the litmus paper in soil suspension.
Turns red in acidic condition, blue in alkaline condition and no colour change in
neutral condition.

Testing soil with pH paper:

Make a soil suspension as above.
Partly dip a pH paper in soil suspension.
Match the changed colour of the pH paper with the given colour chart.
Read the number given in the colour chart.
If the given number is less than 7, it is acidic and above 7, it is basic or alkaline.
If the given number is 7, it is neutral.

Testing soil with a pH meter:

The most accurate method of determining soil pH is by means of an electrical pH
meter, which gives a direct reading of the pH value.
Acidity increases Basisity increases
pH
14
0
13

Make a solution with one part of the soil and two parts of distilled water.
Insert the electrode of the pH meter in the solution.
Stir the solution with the electrode.
Allow the electrode to stand still for a while in the solution.
Read the value shown in the meter once it stabilizes.

What is acid sulphate soil?

Acid sulphate soils are not good for pond construction.

Their pH value is equal to or less than 4.
Pale yellow mottles are usually abundant in the acid sulphate soil.

What is potential acid sulphate soil?

They are waterlogged, unconsolidated soil, which will become acid sulphate upon
drainage and exposure to air.
Their pH varies around 5 to 6.
If kept submerged or unexposed to air potential acid sulphate soil will never become
acid sulphate soil and will not give negative effects
If any of the sub soil layers are proved to be potential acid sulphates you should not
exposed such layers. If exposed they become too acidic and cause problems

How do you identify potential acid sulphate soils?

i) Take a dry soil ball and break it. Examine the inside areas of the broken soil
ball. If you see yellow colour mottles and/or streaks, the soil may contain
potential acid sulphate.

ii) Take a handful of the soil to be tested.
If the sample is dry, moisten it.
Make the soil sample into a cake of one cm thick.
Put the moist cake into a thin polythene bag and sealed it.
After one month, measure the pH of the soil in the cake.
If the pH has dropped below 4, the soil is a potential acid sulphate soil.

(If you need to identify potential acid sulphate soils quickly soil samples has to taken to a
laboratory)











Soil sample
Sealed thin polythene bag
I t is very important that you should not expose potential acid sulphate soil
layers during pond construction!


14

2. WHAT ARE THE IMPORTANT FACTORS A FARMER SHOULD
CONSIDER DURING DESIGNING OF PONDS?


a) How to select and prepare the pond layout design?

Pond layout can be done either in a series or parallel.
The advantage of arranging the ponds in a series is it is cost effective when compared
to arranging in parallel.
However, it has the disadvantage of difficulties in maintaining a healthy pond
environment as it has a greater risk of spreading disease and contaminations from one
pond to the other. Therefore, it is not a good option.






































From water supply To drainage
From water supply
To drainage
From water supply
To drainage
15

b) How to align the pond direction?
Wind plays a role in fishpond design. Strong wind generates waves and the waves
break on the dikes, it will to erode the sides of the dikes.
To minimize this, position the longer pond dimensions (longer pond axis) parallel to
the direction of the main prevailing wind direction so that the wave action would be
on shorter length of dikes and erosion would be less.













c) How to protect your ponds from flood?
If the fish pond site is prone to flooding, construct a diversion canal along the
perimeter dike to divert runoff water during heavy rains.
Construct a larger and higher perimeter dike to prevent inflow of water.


d) How to design the pond bottom?

Pond bottom should be flat and sloping towards the outlet or drainage gate with a gentle
gradient.
For small ponds keep a gentle slope of the pond bottom of about 0.5% to 1.0% from the
water inlet to water outlet or drainage gate to ensure easy and complete drainage of the
pond.
N
E
S
W
Main wind
direction
Long pond axis is parallel
to the wind direction
16

If you have problems to excavate the bottom of the pond to hold water up to the required
depth, you may construct peripheral and/or central ditches or canals in the pond bottom to
provide deep areas for fish.
These canals or ditches should be 0.25 - 0.5 m X 0.25 0.5 m.
(Include a sketch with a cross section to show the peripheral and central canals)

































e) How to position inlets and outlets?

It is better to position inlet and outlet diagonally.
If a pipe is used as an inlet, it should be projected enough into the pond so that water will
fall into the pond at 90
0
directly into the pond and prevent dike erosion by falling along
the dike.
If earthen canals along the dike crown are used as inlets, it is better to allow the water to
fall into the pond along several steps (weir) constructed along the side slope into the pond
at the inlet point. This will not only prevent erosion of the dike but also oxygenate the
supply water.
Outlet should be placed at a level below the lowest level of pond bottom.
Inlet
Outlet Bottom slope towards
outlet
Peripheral canal
Central canal
17

If peripheral and central bottom ditches or canals are constructed, they should be slope
towards the outlet.



























f) What are the types of dikes?


Types of dikes in a single pond: It has only the surrounding dike, which is called the
perimeter dike.












Types of dikes in multiple ponds: The dike running around all ponds is the perimeter dike.
The dikes that separate two ponds are secondary dikes.





Inlet
Outlet
Weir
18






















Types of dikes in multiple ponds with nurseries: The dikes separating nursery ponds are
tertiary dikes
























Perimeter dike has to be build strong to resist water pressure.
It has to be high enough to prevent spillover or to prevent get flooded during heavy
rains.
The secondary dike may not be as strong as perimeter dike as the water pressure is
more or less the same on both sides.
If planned to drain ponds alternatively, then the secondary dikes should be as strong
as perimeter dike.
Perimeter dike and secondary dike should be at the same height to maintain the
desired water depth in the pond.
Secondary dike
Secondary dike
Tertiary dike
Perimeter dike Secondary dike
Secondary dike
Perimeter dike
Nry
pond
Tertiary dike
Secondary dike
Nry
pond
Secondary dike
19

Secondary dike usually has a dike base and top width less than those of the perimeter
dike.
The perimeter dike and secondary dikes should maintain at least a height of 50 cm
above the pond water level. This area of the dike is called free board.
Tertiary dikes are usually smaller than secondary and tertiary dikes and less in height
as nursery ponds usually hold less water depths than main ponds.

g) What is the suitable shape of the dike?
Construct dikes with trapezoidal cross section with the top width, the side slopes and
the height proportionally designed according to the soil material used.







h) How to determine the dike dimensions?

Dike dimensions are dike height, top width or crown, dike base and side slope















How to determine the dike height?

Dike height will be determined by the depth of water that you need to retain in the pond,
height of the free board of the dike (dike height above the pond water level) and your
experience in the flood levels of the area or site.
Pond depth water and free board should be around 1.0 and 0.5 meter, respectively. Hence,
the pond dike height should be at least 1.5 meters.
Trapezoidal cross section of a dike
Top width or crown
Dike
height
Side slope
Dike base
20

If you have experience of frequent flooding in the area, the perimeter dike height of your
ponds should be above the flood level to prevent escape fish from your pond during
floods.










How to select side slope, base and crown width of a dike?
What is side slope?

The side slope or steepness of the dike is the ratio of the horizontal length to the
vertical rise
In other words how much a side of the dike should move horizontally from the edge
of the top width of the dike for each vertical meter of the height of the dike


For example: If a pond has a dike height of 2 meters and top width of 1 meter and a side
slope of 1:1, for each meter of the vertical height, the bottom edge of the side should move
one meter horizontally from the edge of top width. Therefore, for the total two meter height
of the dike, the side should move two meters away from the edge of the top width.























Water depth
Free board
Centre line
First one meter of vertical height
Second one meter of vertical height
1m
.5m .5m
1m
1m
1m
3m
5m
21



















How to determine the base width of the dike?

The base width is determined by the side slope of the dike. In above example the base
width is five meters.


How to determine the top width or the crown width of the dike?

The crown width is determined by what equipment you want to move along the dike.
Crown width should be wide enough for the farmer to walk or push a wheelbarrow along
the dike.





















Berm
You may use this rule-of-thumb to select the side slope based on
soil type and dike heights:

If the soil contains good clay the side slopes can be 1:1.
If the soil containsloose soil, silt, silty sand, sandy loam the
side slope can be 2:1
If the soil contains soft clay, clay loam the side slopes can be
be 1.5:1
If the soil contains sand or wet clay the side slopes can be be
3:1
Dikes lower than 3 m may have a slope of 1:1. Dikes above 3
m should adopt a 2:1 slope.
You may use the following rule-of-thumb to
determine the top width of the dike.
The minimum top width or crown is 1.0
m for dikes less than 3 m high
The top width of dikes used as access
road is 4.0 m.
Construct a 0.5-0.6 m wide berm or
shoulder on each side of a roadway dike
to prevent rolling of soil.

22

How to use the trapezoidal equation to determine the dike height, top width, dike base and
side slopes?

It is better to use the following equation to calculate the side slope, crown or the top
width, dike base width and dike height. This equation is known as the trapezoidal
equation











b = T+ 2 (Zd)

Where,

T = Crown width
Z = Horizontal side of the side slope
d = Hieght of the dike
b = Base width of the dike


Example: If you want to know the base width of your dike that you want to construct with a
dike height of 1.5m and a crown with of 1.0m. The soil has enough clay to have a side slope
of 1:1.


Crown width (T) = 1.0 m
Side slope = 1:1
Horizontal side of slope (Z) = 1
Height of the dike (d) = 1.5 m


Therefore the base width (b) = Crown width + 2(horizontal value of side slope x dike height)

b = 1.0 + 2(1.0 x 1.5)
= 4.0 m


How to calculate the volume of earth that you need to construct your dike?


First calculate the area of the cross section of the dike by using the following equation and
using the same figures given in above example.



d
b
T
Z
23

A = {(b + T)/2} x d

Where,

A = Cross section of the dike
b = Base width of the dike
T = Top width

A ={(4.0 + 1.0)/2} x 1.5


A = 3.75 m
2


Once the cross-sectional area of the dike is known the required volume of earth to construct
the dike can be calculated by multiplying the cross-sectional area by total length of the dike.
If the pond has dimensions of 11 x 28m, then the total length of the dikes of the pond is 78m.

Therefore, volume of earth required to construct the perimeter dike

= A x total length of the perimeter dike
= 3.75 x 78
= 292.5 m
3


You need to add the 10 to 20% of the volume of earth as settlement or shrinkage allowance.
This additional soil is important to maintain the required dike height as after dike
construction with time soil tend to settle and reduce the dike height

If the soil is too sandy or contains lot of organic matter the shrinkage allowance may be as
high as 40%. This will increase cost. Therefore, selecting the site with good clay soil is
important

If shrinkage allowance = 10%
= 29.25 m
3



Therefore, the total volume of earth = 292.5 + 29.5
= 322 m
3

You can calculate the dike dimesions and earth volumes needed to construct the secobdary
and tertiary dikes using the same methods.
Alternatively you may use this rule of thumb of the relationship between top width, bottom
width or base length, height of the dike and side slope


24















3. HOW TO DO THE ACTUAL CONSTRUCTION OF THE POND?

a) Preparation of the site

What are the factors should be considered before excavation?

Pond need to hold water to a depth of 1.0 meter.
Potential acid sulphate layers should not be exposed.
Should not excavate to a depth so that the pond can not be drained completely by
gravitational flow.

How to prepare the site before construction?

Clear the trees, scrubs and bushes in the site before excavation.
Top soil has to be removed and taken away from the pond construction area of the site
Do not use the top soil to construct your pond dikes as it may contain roots and
decaying organic material which are unsuitable for pond dike construction.
You may store this surface soil in a suitable location, close to the site to use this fertile
soil for the following purposes.
- To cover the top width and inner sides of the dikes above water mark
- Spread a layer of this soil on top of pond bottom to increase pond fertility
- To prepare compost piles
Level the site. If the site is with the suitable slope to receive water into and discharge
water from the pond, level the site along the slope.

You may use this relationship to determine the dike height, top
width and dike base at different side slopes
Relationship among the top width, bottom width and height of dikes
with a given side slope
Height
Top width
of crown
(m)
Dike base (m) at a given side slope
1:1 ratio 1.5:1 ratio 2:1 ratio
1.5
2
3
4
1
1
2
3
4
5
8
11
5
7
11
15
7
9
14
19

25


b) How to mark the boundaries of the pond and construct the clay core (cut-off
trench)?

Mark the boundaries of the base of the pond using pegs and string
If the top soil layer does not have enough clay you need to build a clay core (cut-off
trench) to reduce water seepage under the dike.
To build the clay core, you need to cut a trench along the centre of the dike.
For small dikes (small ponds) the width of the trench should be 0.5 m and for large
dikes (large ponds) 1.0m. The depth of the trench should be 0.5m to 1.0m and for
large ponds the depth should reach at least 30 cm into the soil layer with enough clay
under the top layer without adequate clay.
To cut the trench, first mark the centre line of the dike base with pegs and string. On
each side of the centre line clearly mark the width of the trench that you want to cut.
Dig the trench to a desired depth and fill the trench to the ground level with good
quality clay.
Wet it if necessary (if it is too dry) and compact well the soil in the trench with a
concrete tamper or metal tamper
You need to be careful if you bring clay soil outside the site to test it for acidy or
potential acidity






























Pond dike base
boundaries
String
Pegs
Width of cut-off
trench
Concrete tamper Metal tamper
26

c) How to excavate the soil?

Excavate to the predetermined desired depth (taking the conditions given in factors to
be considered before excavation).
Excavated soil can be used to build the dikes (after removing top soil).
If the excavated soil is not enough due to the limitations given above, you can push
earth from the sides of the pond to supplement the excavated soil to make dikes.
Excavated area of the sides of the pond can be used as drainage canals.
If the site can not be excavated due to its topography and status of elevation which
prevent gravity discharge of water, push earth from the sides to construct the dikes.
If this pushed soil is not adequate transport soil from a suitable site.
If soil has to be transported check the soil for its physical and chemical qualities for
its suitability for pond construction.


d) How to pile up soil to construct dikes?


When you are piling up of soil to make the dike, it is important you maintain the side slope of
the dike. In order to maintain the side slope during piling up of soil follow the procedure
given below.

Use pegs an a string as shown below to mark a line along all four sides of the pond
20cm above the bottom parallel to inner and outer boundaries of the pond dike base.
Fill the first layer of soil along all four sides of the pond up to the 20 cm mark and
compress and compact the soil using either a concrete, metal or thick wooden tramper
(thick wooden board with a large surface area fixed to a vertical pole) or using a
vibration plate or a roller.






















20cm
String
Pegs
Inner boundary
of dike base
Outer boundary
of dike base
27

For each dike move the inside boundary and outside boundary of the dike base
towards the centre line of the dike by a distance equal to 20cm x side slope.
Then use pegs along this distance to mark the new inner and outer boundaries of the
dike base and raise the string to mark 20cm height above and parallel to the new
boundaries



For example: If the inside pond side slope and outside pond side slopes are 1.5:1, then the
distance is 20 cm x 1.5 = 30cm




















Fill the second layer of soil along all four sides of the pond up to the new 20 cm mark
and compress and compact the soil using either a concrete, metal or thick wooden
tramper (thick wooden board with a large surface area fixed to a vertical pole) or
using a vibration plate or a roller.
For each dike, move the inside and outside dike base boundaries towards the dike
centre line by the same distance as previously (30cm) and raise the string another
20cm along and parallel to the boundaries
Fill the third layer of soil along all four sides of the pond up to the new 20 cm mark
and compress and compact the soil using either a concrete, metal or thick wooden
tramper (thick wooden board with a large surface area fixed to a vertical pole) or
using a vibration plate or a roller.
Repeat these steps until you reach the level of the top of the dikes. If the last soil layer
is less than 20cm thick, adjust the level of the string with the level of the top of the
dike, instead of 20 cm height.
Once you repeat this steps the sides of the dikes will look like staircases
In order to obtain a smooth side slope follow the following steps

- On the top of each dike, set out the planned dike top width, measuring half of its
value on either side of the centre line and mark the limits with pegs and a string
20cm 20cm
30cm
30cm
Outline of finished dike
20cm 20cm
28

- Starting from the top of the dike, obliquely cut the end of each soil layer on the
sides of the dikes following a slope that joins the limits of the dike top width to
the bottom limit of the layers, until reaching the dike base
- Remove all the cut soil, pegs and strings


It is better to pile up soil 10%-20% more than the required dike height at the final
stage, i.e., when piling up the final layer. This 10% -20% additional soil layer is called
shrinkage allowance and it is for settlement or for shrinkage of dike height with time
after construction.















How to maintain a uniform dike height along entire dike length?
It is very important to have a uniform dike height when constructing the dike. You
can use the following simple technique to ensure the uniformity of dike height along
the dike length.
Get a 50 m long transparent plastic tube/hose. Fill the hose with water. Hold one end
of the hose at one end of the dike and the other end at the next 40 m away.
If the water levels at both ends are the same, the dike is level. Repeat this process
along the whole length of the dike
How to stabilise the dike slopes?
After levelling the pond, plant creeping grasses on the dikes to prevent erosion. Plant
bananas at the outside slope of the perimeter dike to serve as wind breakers.
Do not plant trees along the dikes because the roots will cause leakage and seepage.
The program of work is the basis of implementation of the project. Evaluate and
calculate each item realistically so that each job is properly developed and
economically done.
Top width
Outline of dike
Shaped side of the dike
29

e) How to plan fish pond construction
Planning of fishpond construction must be done carefully and systematically.
The system of pond construction is based on a prepared program and schedule of
development.
Below are examples of how to prepare the schedule of development and programme.
The charts given below are only to show how to prepare a schedule and a programme. The
timing (months, days), labour requirements and support facilities can be vary according to
the locality and situation
Schedule of Development:

Months
Jan. Feb. Mar. April May June
1. Clearing/marking path & Levelling

2. Earthwork:
a. Construction of dikes
b. Construction of canals
c. Levelling


3. Construction and installation of gates and pipes
a. Construction
b. Installation


4. Finishing touches


Proposed program of work:
Activities
Nature of
work
Daily Labour
requirement
(8 hr/day)
No. Of
days to
complete
the work
(days)
Support facilities &
equipment
Clearing/marking &
levelling of dikes
Daily

Earthwork
a. construction of dikes


Contract
labour or own
labour
Contract
labour or own
labour







30

b. construction of
canals
c. Levelling
Contract
labour or own
labour
Contract
labour or own
labour
Construction &
installation of gates &
pipes
a. construction
b. Installation




Daily
Daily





Finishing touches Daily





4. WHAT ARE THE MATERIAL AND STRUCTURES YOU CAN
USE AS SUPPLY AND DRAINAGE CANALS, INLETS AND
OUTLETS?

Supply canals are the structures you deliver water from the water source to the pond.
Drainage canals are the structure you drain water away from the pond.
Inlets are the structures you let water into the pond from supply canal.
Outlets are the structures you drain water from the pond into the drainage canal.


The following can be used as inlets and outlets.


i) Pipes

Bamboo, PVC pipes, Coconut trunks with a hollow centre, galvanized pipes, or
reinforced concrete pipes can be used as simple inlets and outlets.
Pipes can be used to supply water as the supply canal as well as inlets.
Pipes can also be used as outlets to drain water from the pond into the drainage
canal.



Simple pipe outlet:







Outlet secured with a cap
31

If simple pipes are used to drain pond water, the following can be used as a guide in
determining the proper pipe diameter to be installed.

Guide in determining pipe diameter
Size of drain pipe in
inches
Condition
4
6
12
Can drain 1 ha. pond with average depth of 1 m
in 6 days
Can drain the same in three days
Can drain the same in one day

With proper scheduling of draining time, it is adequate to use 4 to 6 inch pipe for one hectare
pond and 6 to 11 inch pipe for larger ponds.

Stand pipe outlet:


If you use a plastic pipe you can make a better outlet pipe than a simple pipe outlet.
Two plasti pipe pieces canbe joint together using L shaped plastic joint as shown
below.
This type of outlet pipes is called stand pipes.
























Stand pipe outlet
Move the verticle arm 90
0
to
complete drain. Control the
angle of move ment to drain
water partially
Horizontal
arm
Vertical arm
L joint
32


It is important to protect the vertical arm of the outlet by accidental movements. Tie
the vertical pipe to pole fixed firmly into the ground so that it will not move or slip
down accidentally and let the water out of the pond before you want to drain the pond.
The top of the vertical arm of the stand pipe should be about 5 cm above the water
level of the pond. If pond water level rises above this level, it will overflow from the
vertical pipe.


ii) Open gutters

PVC open gutters, split bamboo can be use as inlets.


iii) Earthen canals

It is better to construct earthen canals with a trapezoidal cross section for
effectiveness and efficiency of water delivery or drainage.
Earthen canals can be used to supply water as well as inlets (if the earthen
canal is constructed along the dike crown).




























Shape of the trapezoidal
cross section

Earthen canal running along the
dike to serve as the supply canal
as well as the inlet

Supply canal
Inlet
33











Construct water supply and drainage canals simultaneously with the dikes.

iv) Gates

Sluice monk type gates can be used as both inlets and outlets to supply water into or
drain water from the pond.
Sluice monk can control water level in the pond.
Sluice monk type gates are usually installed in bigger ponds to drain water faster.
If simple pipes are used, you have to use several pipes at different levels to control the
water depth inside the pond or use a stand pipe at the outlet.
In a simple pipe when water is not drained the outer end of the pipe should be sealed
and inner ends should be covered with a suitable screen.
In a stand pipe outlet outer end need not be sealed, but the vertical arm of the stand
pipe should be secured from accidental lowering.

Components of a sluice monk outlet:

The complete monk outlet has four main components:

i) a vertical three sided tower called the monk,
ii) a pipeline running through the dike which is sealed to the back of the tower,
iii) a foundation for the tower, and
iv) three sets of groves to fix the wooden boards and screens which forms the fourth side
(front side) of the tower.












Verticl tower
(monk)
Pipeline
Foundation
Grooves
Drainage canal
10 cm
20 cm
Outside pond Inside pond
34




Outlet pipeline should be placed at the very bottom of the monk.
Sluice monk type gates can be made out of concrete or wood
Place three pairs of grooves on each side of wooden or concrete gates extending from bottom
to the top of the dike where they are installed. The middle pair of grooves allows the
removable slabs to regulate the flow of water. The first and third pairs enable the screens to
prevent the escape of cultured fish. These screens may either be of bamboo splits or nylon
attached to a wooden frame.
What are the important points to know when designing outlets?

You will need the outlet to let water out of pond when you want to empty the pond
Outlet should be large enough to drain the pond within a reasonable amount of time
Place the outlet at the bottom of the dike at the lower end of your pond bottom and
select the deepest part so that the outlet will be low enough to ensure complete
drainage of the pond
On the pond side of the outlet, it should be at least 10 cm lower than the lowest point
of the pond bottom
Outlet should slope away from the pond, preferably with a slope equal to or greater
than 1%
At its other end (end outside the pond), it is at least 20 cm higher than the bottom of
the drainage canal


5. HOW TO SUPPLY WATER TO PONDS FROM THE WATER
SOURCE

If your water source is a borehole you have to pump water from the borehole and
directly deliver water through a pipe into the pond.

If your water source is a reservoir you can supply water from the reservoir through a
supply canal or a pipe using gravitational flow into the pond.

If your water source is a river or a stream, often rivers and streams are not much
higher than your ponds, it may be difficult to get water to run down into your ponds.

By building a barrage as shown below, you can raise the level of the stream so that
water will run down more easily into your fish ponds.






35



















You can build a simple barrage using a woven mesh of tree branches or closely
stacked stones or rocks or closely arranged set of logs into the stream.

A barrage does not hold back all of water that runs down the stream. Depending on
how the barrage is built, some of the water will be held back and some of the water
will flow through or over the barrage.

If the tree branches or stones or logs are placed tightly together, the water level behind
the barrage will be higher.

After you have built a barrage and the water behind it has reached its highest level,
you will need to dig a supply canal or a ditch to take the water to your ponds.

Construct the supply canal/ditch just behind the barrage where the water is deepest.
Dig it in a way that the water in the stream will not flow into the canal/ditch. To do
this start the supply canal/ditch about one meter away from the edge of the water.

When you want to supply water into your pond, remove this one meter strip and
connect the water into the canal/ditch. After supplying the water in to your pond, you
can fill again this strip and stop water flowing into the supply canal/ditch









Barrage
Stream
Stream
36



































A supply canal/ditch with above dimensions can supply water to a small pond of 400
m
2


Alternatively build a wooden or concrete sluice gate at the top of the supply
canal/ditch just behind the one meter strip that you left at the edge of the water when
you began digging the canal/ditch. This is a better option to control the water flow
into your ponds.

The sluice gate will have three slots in each wall. Two sets of slots are for wooden
boards (wooden planks) and the third set is for a screen to keep out wild fish that may
enter through the sluice gate.

Fill the space between the two sets of boards with good clay soil to prevent any water
leaking through the sluice gate.

Stream
Stream
1m
A
A
1

A A
1

30 cm
30 cm
30 cm
37

Remove the one meter strip of soil you left at the edge of the stream and allow the
water to fill up to the wooden planks in the sluice.

Later when you are ready to fill water into the ponds, you can control how much
water will reach your ponds by removing some of the wooden planks from the sluice

The figure below illustrate how you can build wooden a sluice gate


























Construct the supply canal/ditch to supply water in a way that it will supply water to
all your ponds (first to last pond). The supply canal/ditch will branch into each pond
as inlet canals/ditches to supply water to each pond.

Construct the supply canal/ditch beyond the last pond for about 10 meters and then
bring the canal/ditch slowly to the surface so that when you fill the ponds, any
additional water will flow out at ground level.










Boards Screen
Floor of the opening of
sluice gate
Foundation
38

































For better control of the water supply to each pond, you can build smaller sluices in
the supply canal/ditch at the lower corners of each inlet canal/ditch, as shown in the
below figure.

With this sluice you need only one set of boards. Slide the set of wooden boards into
the slot to send all the water into a pond, or take the boards out to let all the water
flow farther down the supply canal/ditch into other ponds.

If you take only few boards out some water will enter into the pond and rest of water
will flow into other ponds.

Remember to use water resistant wood to construct wooden sluice and treat the wood
to prevent boring.



Stream
Stream
Supply canal/ditch
Inlets
ccanals
ca