IMPROVED METHODS OF COLORATION OF COTTON AND SILK USING

EXTRACT OF ARECHA CATECHU WITHOUT MORDANTS

Ida Nuramdhani, Ika Natalia, Octianne Djamaludin, Sarah Rosyidah, Wiwin S. Wahyuni
Faculty of Tetile !hemistry, Sekolah Tin""i Teknolo"i Tekstil
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Abstract
Natural dye extracted from the nuts of Areca catechu, which contains phlobaphene or areca red,
grown abundantly in Indonesia, has been known and utilized for coloration of silk and cotton fabric.
As with most if not all natural dyes, mordants are required to fix the dyes on the fiber and improve the
washing fastness of the dyed fabrics. ifferent mordants may produce different colors on the fabric.
!here has been studies recently to reduce and even eliminate the use of mordants in the dyeing of
textiles with natural colorants due to their potential risk of endangering the environment. !his is
particularly true for mordants containing heavy metals like iron, chrome, and copper. In this study,
silk and cotton fabrics were dyed with different techniques of dyeing without mordants" high#
temperature dyeing and repeated dyeing with and without the addition of salt and$or acid to the dye
bath. %olour value with respect to &$', which indicates the amount of dyes fixed on the fabric, was
found to be highest (),*+,- and ).-./-0 from dyeing at room temperature with the addition of 1+ g$2
salt (Na%l0. !he crocking fastness (dry and wet0 and washing fastness reach the value of 3 on the
greyscale, which is the highest. !his is surprising considering the fact that most natural colorants can
only give the fastness value in the vicinity of 1#,, which is also particularly true in the absence of
mordants.
&eywords" natural colorants, areca catechu nut, silk
Abstrak
#kstrak dari )uah *inan" merah +Areca catechu, yan" )anyak tum)uh di Indonesia dan men"andun"
senyawa flo)afena atau areca red telah diketahui da*at mewarnai )ahan tekstil den"an san"at )aik,
terutama sutera dan ka*as. Se)a"aimana umumnya (at warna alam, *encelu*an den"an ekstrak )uah
*inan", )ahkan untuk sutera sekali*un, mem)utuhkan *emordanan yan" )erfun"si men"ikat (at warna
a"ar tidak mudah luntur oleh *encucian dan untuk mem)erikan -ariasi warna hasil *encelu*an.
.emakaian mordan, yan" )iasanya terdiri dari lo"am/lo"am )erat, )elakan"an ini )anyak dihindari
karena resiko *encemaran lin"kun"an yan" di)awanya, sehin""a *erlu dicari cara untuk men"uran"i
atau )ahkan men"hilan"kannya dari *encelu*an den"an (at warna alam. .ada studi ini, kain sutera dan
ka*as dicelu* den"an ekstrak )uah *inan" merah men""unakan )e)era*a metoda alternatif tan*a
*emordanan yan" meli*uti *encelu*an *ada suhu tin""i, *encelu*an )erulan", den"an dan tan*a
*enam)ahan "aram dan0atau asam. Dari )er)a"ai -ariasi metode yan" telah dilakukan, hasil
*encelu*an kain ka*as dan sutera men""unakan (at warna dari ekstrak )uah *inan" yan" ditam)ah
"aram +Na!l, men"hasilkan ketuaan warna *alin" tin""i den"an nilai 10S se)esar 2,3&45 dan 2,5675.
Selain itu, ketahanan luntur terhada* "osokan +)asah dan kerin", dan *encucian men"hasilkan nilai
ter)aik *ada grey scale, yaitu 8. 9asil terse)ut san"at menjanjikan )ila men"in"at tan*a mordan *ada
umumnya hasil *encelu*an (at warna alam hanya memiliki nilai ketahanan luntur *ada rentan" :/4.
1ata 1unci $ ;at warna alam, .inan", Sutera.