New Advancements in Technology, Safety, and

Sustainability
'A tome of the newest advances in printmaking for today's
environmentally conscious art students, master printers, teachers, and
artists' (Amazon)
Etching, lithography, and screenprinting shouldn't be harmful to the
artist or the planet. With cutting edge, never-before-published
advances in printmaking media, Printmaking Revolution provides
artists, students, and teachers alike with safer, environmentally
friendly and non-carcinogenic methods for creating beautiful prints.
Inside, teacher and professional artist, Dwight Pogue offers
groundbreaking information on embracing green, petroleum-free,
nontoxic materials that comply with the Environmental Protection
Agency (EPA) and Occupational Safety and Health Administration
(OSHA) requirements. With new alternatives for the modern era, and
work by some of todays most notable artists, including Janet Fish,
James Rosenquist Walton Ford, and Louisa Chase, this book truly
revolutionizes the techniques, materials, and processes of a timehonored medium.
About the Author Dwight Pogue is a professor of art at Smith
College, where he has taught printmaking and drawing for 25
years. He is the founder and director of the Smith College
Workshop, which, since 1984, has brought some of the country's
most celebrated artists to Smith to collaborate with master
printers in creating limited edition prints. A Fulbright recipient
and professional artist, Pogue has work in several national juried
exhibitions, as well as private and public collections. He lives in
Northhampton, MA.

Safe, simple and

inexpensive etching of intaglio
plates in salt water electrolyte
By Dwight Pogue and Skip Klepacki Copyright 2012
Salt-Water Etching has been used successfully for many decades in fine
jewelry and knife making, printed circuit board manufacturing, and numerous
other applications. By fine-tuning the practices and equipment for the
intaglio application it is not only possiblebut also simple and inexpensive

to consistently produce highest quality intaglio plates using a safe electrolyte

of kosher or pickling salt dissolved in distilled water. Table salt, sea salt, or
rock salt should be avoided because of incidental or added ingredients other
than pure sodium chloride, and the same applies to distilled water versus tap
water. This safe, simple and inexpensive electrolyte solution can be used to
consistently etch many dozens of intaglio plates and then be easily
replenished as detailed below.
PROCESS DESCRIPTION
Unlike the bite created using an acid etching effectsuch as with hazardous
nitric acid or acid salts such as ferric chlorideElectrolytic Etching
accomplishes its bite by the flow of electrons between the intaglio plate and
a counter-electrode via a highly-conductive electrolyte, such as salt or
copper sulfate dissolved in water. The DC voltage required in a 15% salt
solution is very lowonly 2-3 voltsthe same as two D-cells in a flashlight.
In fact, it is possible to etch exquisitely fine details using batteries as the
only source of voltage and current, provided the batteries have enough
charge capacity to etch the surface area of the image on the intaglio plate to
the desired depth. It is important to maintain the voltage at or below 3 volts
to prevent secondary electrolytic processes from occurring.
For larger platesup to 16 x 20and for very consistent etching times, an
inexpensive (under $40) 3-volt DC plug-in power supply is recommended.
One significant advantage to electrolytic etching over acid or acid salt
etching is that the etching process is driven entirely by the flow of electrons
so that when the power supply is switched off, etching stops immediately.
The use of timer switches such as those referenced below enables set it and
forget it etching control, allowing the printmaker to turn his or her attention
to other tasks while the etching process is occuring. Equipment required for
electrolytic etching is easy to make, improvise, or purchase by following the
guidelines illustrated in the photos and captions below.
We recently test-compared our salt etching with ferric chloride and found the
results in the print to be indistinguishable. We used distilled water, mixed
with kosher salt according to the photo- captions below, and kept the copper
wire mesh, strap and hangers clean and without corrosion, which deters the
etching process. We etch with 2 to 3 volts D.C. and make it a point to never
go over 3 volts DC (direct current). We found our salt etching times were
very comparable to ferric chloride ten minutes in ferric was about 10
minutes in our salt etch. We recommend test plates be etched in your own
salt etch to find best times for your particular set up.
We also tested the salt etch after approximately 30 copper test plates were
etched in it. We compared identical copper plates, one etched in this wellused salt water mix and the other plate etched in a new, fresh mix of distilled
water and salt. The results were nearly identical, which leads us to believe

the salt etch can be used many times before being replaced with fresh water
and salt.
WASTE DISPOSAL CONSIDERATION
An unavoidable consequence of the etching of any type of metal intaglio
plate is the proper disposal of spent etching solution and sludge. The safe
handling and disposal of electrolyte from Salt Water Etching is simpler and
less hazardous than other etching solutions.
To clean the tank, first allow the water and salt to sit overnight so the copper
residue settles to the bottom of the tank (see photo). Decant as much of the
liquid as possible (carefully remove the clear salt and water in the tank
without disturbing the bottom residue). The remaining sludge at the bottom
of the tank consists of salts of copper. Strain the sludge through paper towels
to remove the water and then dry the remains on newspaper so it can later
be properly disposed.
As with any solution containing dissolved copper, disposal down the drain
should be avoided, since copper ions in solutions are toxic to many aquatic
organisms. We recommend testing your spent electrolyte using a simple and
inexpensive pH test strip or kit made for testing swimming pool or spa water.
If the test results prove to be acidic (below 7.0), the copper-containing
solution or sludge can be brought to neutral pH by adding small amounts of
common alkaline household products such as Baking Soda (Sodium
Bicarbonate), Washing Soda (Sodium Carbonate), or TSP (Tri-Sodium
Phosphate).
Wearing eye protection and gloves, add a small amount (teaspoon to
tablespoon-sized) of the chosen neutralizer, stir thoroughly and re-test until
pH test results are between 7 and 8.** The solution or sludge can then be
further evaporated until dried or absorbed into kitty litter, double-bagged,
and disposed according to local regulations. Small quantities of these coppercontaining materials are acceptable in many municipal landfills. Check with
your local landfill operator to be sure.
EQUIPMENT RECOMMENDATIONSHRP-100-3.3 Power SupplyWe chose a 30
amp power source so it would be sufficient to etch a 16 by 20 inch plate (the
more surface area to be etched, the more amps are needed). Note: The unit
has a small plastic screw adjustment to decrease or increase the voltage
slightly, and so we turned it all the way to the left to decrease it as much as
possible, which our voltmeter registered at 3 volts.
LEVITON Timer, 120V, 15A, Digital, Table Top RemoteIt also has a remote
override.
TORK Timer, Digital, 1000W, 18InCord, 2Recep, GYAnalog Panel Meter - 0 to
5 VDC
85C1 DC 0-15A Rectangle Analog Panel Ammeter Gauge

It would be an advantage to have both meters (volts and amps), especially if

etching larger plates. Monitoring the voltage and amps during etching of
various sizes plates will help maintain consistency in the process.
We recommend copper mesh or better yet, perforated copper sheet as a
counter-electrode instead of plain sheet or plate because the many and
myriad edges will result in a uniform etch across the entire surface of the
intaglio plate. Separation between the counter-electrode and the plate
should be uniform from corner to corner and be in the range of 2-3 inches.
Copper wire mesh or perforated copper sheets may be purchased from
McMaster
and
Carr.
Their
website
for
mesh
is:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#copper-mesh/=3mxy.
For
our
tanks,
we
purchased a sheet of wire mesh large enough so that we could bend the
edges in order to make the sheet rigid and make it fit snugly within the tank.
We selected 4 mesh (.020) copper wire, however, a sheet of perforated
copper would be preferable since it is already rigid. The wire mesh we used
was large enough so when the edges were folded over to make it rigid, the
piece measured 17 inches high by 20.5 inches wide. It is important to
maintain a uniform distance between whatever sheet you select and the
copper plates you are actually etching therefore, rigidity is preferred.
Grounds used for electrolytic etching should be selected to provide an
effective barrier to electron flow, otherwise foul bite might occur at longer
etching times if the ground breaks down during the etching process. Many
conventional grounds such as acrylic wax, tape and nail polish, are effective
barriers. D & S Posi-Coat and Bio-Laq are particularly effective and provide a
rich palette of ink tones to the printmaker. We add a few drops of food
coloring to the Bio-Lac to make it easier to see when using it as a ground.
This is the second of two etching tanks we made out of clear Plexiglass. It is advisable to use
at least one quarter inch thick Plexiglass or Lexan (stronger). We used a saw blade made for
plastics. The size of our tanks are 18 by 22 inches by 4 inches wide, so that a 16 by 20 inch
metal plate may be etched in them.
We recommend researching on line to find the appropriate glue. Solvent glue that is very
thin (watery like) requires that the acrylic edges be perfectly smooth cut with a router
rather than a saw blade. Thicker glues (like gels) can be used for sawn edges if sufficient
glue and clamping is employed. We used a tube of CLEAR MEDIUM BODIED SOLVENT
CEMENT FOR JOINING ACRYLIC. In this photo, we are using a wood stick as a spacer for
clamping the glued pieces together.
Note the strip of Plexiglass glued across the bottom of the tank to hold the copper wire mesh
against the side of the tank when etching plates. Also note the cut outs on the top edges of
the tank for holding the copper strap and the copper wire mesh. Both the copper wire mesh
and the plate you are etching need to be aligned parallel to each other during etching, since
an uneven etch might result if one end of the plate is further away from the wire screen than
the other end.

Pouring one and a half boxes of kosher salt (4 and one half pounds total) into four gallons of
distilled water.
Stirring the salt into the distilled water.
The 3 volt D.C. Power supply unit, a gray 110 volt three wire (white, black and green for
ground) electrical cord with male plug, and two FINE STRAND wires, one red and one black
rated at 30 amps (purchased from Home Depot). Two wire clamps were purchased at Radio
Shack (We actually ended up using two heavier duty battery clamps from Radio Shack). We
advise having an electrician attach the wires to the power supply terminals.
In order to provide a protective cabinet for the power unit, we built a simple, wooden
plywood box 10 by 12 inches in size for containing/holding the power supply unit.
Using the two threaded holes provided in the bottom of the power supply unit, we bolted it
securely to the wooden brace within the box.
We used staples (we recommend electrical insulated staples) for holding the wires securely
to the wooden box. We then cut two aluminum grills (from a hardware store) and screwed
them securely to the box. The grills protect the wire connections to the power supply unit
and allow sufficient air to flow through the box. Be careful that water never touches any part
of the power unit or connections. When the unit is turned on, a small green L.E.D. light
shines on the front of the power unit. The power unit is plugged into a timer, which in turn is
plugged into an electrical outlet. As soon as the timer goes off, the electrolysis stops.
Etching a six by nine inch copper plate in the salt tank. Note: The positive clamp (red)
clamps to the strap holding the plate to be etched, whereas the negative (black) wire clamps
to the wire mesh screen. Note the spigot on the side of the tank for draining the clear water
from the tank (after the tank sits overnight the water becomes clear except for the residue
at the bottom).
Before etching, always clean the wire mesh, strap and two hangers. Use a wire brush to
clean the wire mesh and Norton polishing pads to clean the strap and hangers. An
alternative is to soak the mesh in a tray of vinegar or water with citric crystals. Note that if
the wire mesh and hangers are left in the salt water for any length of time, they will corrode
and not perform properly.
Cleaning the inside of the copper hanger straps with a few swipes of a Norton polishing pad.
The back side of theses straps are covered with white plastic tape to protect them from the
etch process. Any exposed front areas of the hangers are covered with clear packing tape,
which is also used to tape the plate (to be etched) to the hangers.
Using clear packing tape to secure the back of the plate (to be etched) to the two copper
hangers. Packing tape works better than shelving paper. Remember, good contact and clean
contact points are necessary for proper etching control.
Placing the strap with the two hangers and the attached copper plate to be etched - into
the electrolysis tank for etching with 3 volts of DC current.