Cooking Stocks

Cooking stocks are an integral part of any well-stocked (no pun intended) kitchen. To be
considered a chef, versus a mere cook, you need to know how to make and use good
stocks. I kid you not.
Stocks may seem intimidating because you think you need to make the stock fresh before
you start the recipe not so! On a quarterly or semi annual basis, take time to make,
reduce, and freeze your stocks. This way you'll always be ready to make some great
food.
You don't go to the mill when you need a cup of flour; you have it in your pantry. Think of
stock in the same way. If freezer space is limited, simply simmer more of the liquid/water
out of the strained stock. You can easily make 1 gallon of stock into a gallon and save
the space. But I warn you, your stock will be so rich and intense you will never want to go
back to the diluted kind.
Cooking stocks are simply flavored liquids. A good one is the key to a great soup,
braised dish or sauce. There are many types. They are all made from a combination of
bones, vegetables, liquids and seasonings. Each type uses different procedures.
A chicken stock (white stock) is made with chicken bones, A beef stock (brown stock) is
made of beef bones. If you are new to making cooking stocks, fear not. Just follow the
steps, and you'll do fine. Be sure to taste your stocks and refine your technique the next
time around. If your brown stock isn't rich and brown, roast the bones longer next time.
Chefs practice their craft, so keep practicing.
One more note: never salt your cooking stocks. They're used as a flavor ingredient, and
you may be required to reduce them (which in turn would make them saltier). Adjust your
seasoning at the end of the process; that way you are fearlessly in control.

Stock Types
A white stock is colorless during the cooking process. It is made by simmering chicken,
veal or beef bones in water with vegetables and seasonings.
A brown stock has a dark color. It is made from veal, beef, chicken or game bones in
water with vegetables which are caramelized before simmered in water with seasonings.
Both a fish stock and a fumet are made by slowly cooking fish bones or crustacean shells
and vegetables without coloring them. They are then simmered in water with seasonings.
For a fumet, wine and lemon juice are also added.
A court boullion is made by simmering vegetables and seasonings in water and an acidic
liquid such as vinegar or wine. It is used to poach vegetables or fish.

Bones
Bones are the most important ingredient in a cooking stock. They add flavor, color and
richness to the stock. Each type of bone requires its own cooking time. For instance,

chicken bones require five to six hours of cooking time, while beef or veal bones require six
to eight hours of cooking time.

Beef and Veal Bones

The best bones from beef and veal are from younger animals. They contain a higher
percentage of cartilage and other connective tissue than those of mature animals. The
best beef and veal bones are back, neck and shank bones. They have high collagen
content. Collagen turns into gelatin and water. Gelatin adds richness to finished stock. Beef
and veal bones should be cut into small pieces (3 to 4 inches) for the most flavor.

Chicken Bones
The best bones are the neck and back. A whole carcass can be used and cut up for
easier handling.

Fish Bones
Lean fish such as sole, flounder, whiting or turbot are the best bones to use for fish
cooking stock. The entire fish carcass can be used but it should be cut with a heavy knife
for an even extraction of flavors. Rinse the pieces in cold water after cutting to remove
blood and other impurities.

Other Bones
Lamb, turkey, game and ham bones can be used for white or brown stocks. Be
careful not to mix strong flavored bones such as lamb or game with beef, veal, or chicken.
You may turn out with an undesirable taste.

Principles of Stock Making

The principles of stock making are really quite straight-forward and simple. Still, for
whatever reason, many would-be gourmet cooks seem to draw the line here. They feel that
stocks are used only by the great chefs, and that their "mysteries" must therefore run too
deep for a beginner to manage.
Well, let me say this about that . . . balderdash!!
There is nothing to making your own stock, and I promise you that doing so will
almost instantly make you a better cook.
Here's all there is to it . . .
There are only 7 basic steps stock making:
Start the stock in cold water.
Simmer the stock gently.
Skim the stock frequently.

Strain the stock carefully.

Cool the stock quickly.
Store the stock properly.
Degrease the stock.
That's it!
Now I'll run through these 7 basic principles of stock making again, this time with a
bit more detail . . .

Start the Stock In Cold Water

The stock making ingredients should always be covered with cold water. When
bones are covered with cold water, blood and other impurities dissolve. When the water
heats, the impurities coagulate and rise to the surface. They can then be removed by
skimming. If you used hot water first, the impurities would coagulate too quickly and remain
throughout the water.

Simmer the Stock Gently

The stock should be brought to a boil and then reduced to a simmer. Rapid boiling of
a stock causes impurities and fats to blend with the liquid.

Skim the Stock Frequently

A stock should be skimmed often so the stock doesn't become cloudy with impurities.

Strain the Stock Carefully

The liquid must be separated from the bones, vegetables and other solid
ingredients, once a stock is finished cooking. In order to keep the liquid clear, it is
important not to disturb the solid ingredients when removing the liquid.
Skim as much fat as you can from the surface before removing the stockpot from the
heat.
After removing the pot, ladle the stock from the pot without stirring it.
Strain the stock through a china cap with several layers of cheesecloth.

Cool The Stock Quickly

You must cool a stock carefully to prevent food-borne illnesses or souring.
Keep the stock in a metal container. A plastic container slows cooling because it
insulates.
Vent the stock in an empty sink by placing it on a rack. Fill the sink with water. This
allows water to circulate on all sides and below the pot.

Stir the stock frequently while in the sink for quick, even cooling.

Store The Stock Properly

Once the stock is cooled, transfer it to a covered container either metal or plastic.
Then put it in the refrigerator. As the stock refrigerates, a layer of fat will form over the
top which help preserve the stock.

Degrease The Stock

To degrease is to remove fat from the surface of a liquid such as a stock or sauce by
skimming, scraping or lifting congealed fat.

White Stock
A white stock may be made from beef, veal or chicken bones. Veal bones are most often
used, but any combination of bones may be used.
You might want to use all chicken bones for a chicken white stock. Procurement of the
bones is going to be the trick. While it may seem slightly disgusting, I recommend
freezing the discarded bones from your family's dinner plates. Also, get to know a
butcher and find out if they cut chickens on-site and if they ever discard "breast cages,"
basically the rib cages of the birds with no skin. This is exactly what you want.
To use, the stock is then reduced or thickened with a roux, although some chefs prefer
to avoid using flour. When the stock is thickened with a roux it is called a veloute (mother
sauce). With the addition of cream, a veloute becomes a cream sauce, and the cream
sauce, in turn, takes on different names depending on the garnish.
I highly recommend that you study white stock making, and subsequently the great
sauces that derive from it. They are the essence of French cuisine.
Remember, as one of my favorite chefs, Jacques Pepin, says: "A sauce should be light - if
it looks and tastes like glue, the culprit is the cook, not the flour."

Blanching Bones
Some chefs argue that blanching keeps the stock as clear and colorless as possible.
Others argue that blanching removes nutrients and flavor.
Wash the cut-up bones, place them in a stockpot and cover them with cold water.
Bring the water to a boil.
When the water starts boiling, skim the rising impurities. Drain the water from the bones
and discard it.
Refill the pot with cold water, and proceed with the stock recipe.

Recipe For White Stock

*Bones, (veal, chicken, or beef) 7 1/2 lbs.
*Cold Water, 6 qts.
*Mirepoix, 1 lb. (a mixture of 50% onions, 25% carrots and 25% celery)
*Sachet (ingredients tied in a cheesecloth bag):
Bay Leaves, 1
Dried Thyme, 1/4 tsp.
Peppercorns, crushed, 1/4 tsp.
Parsley Stems, 6
Yield: 1 gal.
Cut the washed bones into pieces approximately 3-4 inches (8-10 centimeters) long.
Place the bones in a stockpot and cover with cold water. If blanching, bring the water to
a boil, skimming off the scum that rises to the surface. Drain off the water. Add the 6
quarts of cold water and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer.
If not blanching the bones, bring the cold water to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and skim
the scum that forms.
Add the mirepoix and sachet to the simmering stock.
Continue simmering and skimming the stock for 6 to 8 hours. (If only chicken bones are
used, simmer for 5 to 6 hours.)
Strain, cool and refrigerate.
Degrease.
To avoid bacterial growth, do not leave prepared stock in the refrigerator longer than
two days. Stock freezes well, preferably in quart-size Ziploc freezer bags laid flat in your
freezer. Do not freeze stocks longer than 3-6 months. After that length of time, poultry and
beef stocks begin to lose their flavor, and seafood stocks get "fishier".

Brown Stock
A basic brown stock is one of the most popular stocks among professional chefs, as well
as home cooks. It takes some time to prepare, but the procedure is simple and
straightforward. I consider this stock to be an indispensible part of my culinary
repertoire.
A good, basic brown stock is made from chicken, veal, beef or game bones. The

difference between a brown and a white stock is that with the brown version the bones and
mirepoix are carmelized before being simmered, and a tomato product is added. These
extra steps provide a rich, dark color and a more intense flavor. Yum!

Caramelizing
Do not wash or blanch the bones.
Procedure for Caramelizing Bones
Place the cut-up bones in a roasting pan. Do not overfill pan.
Roast the bones for 1 hour in a hot oven. Stir occasionally, making sure the bones
brown thoroughly.
Transfer the roasted bones from the pan to the stockpot.
After the bones are caramelized, the excess fat should be removed and reserved for
future use. To utilize the caramelized proteins remaining in the pan, you need to deglaze
the pan. To "deglaze" means to swirl or stir a liquid (usually wine or stock) in a saute pan or
other pan to dissolve cooked food particles remaining on the bottom; the resulting mixture
becomes the perfect base for a sauce.
Procedure For Deglazing the Pan
Place the pan on the stove top over medium heat and add enough water to cover the
bottom of the pan.
Stir and scrape the pan bottom to dissolve and remove all the caramelized materials
while the water heats.
Pour the deglazing liquid over the bones in the stockpot.
Procedure For Caramelizing Mirepoix
Add a little of the reserved fat from the roasted bones to the roasting pan after it has
been deglazed.
Saute the mirepoix, browning all the vegetables well and evenly without burning them.
Add the caramelized mirepoix to the stockpot.
Almost any tomato product can be used in a brown stock. The tomato product should be
added to the stockpot when the mirepoix is added.

Recipe For Brown Stock

Bones, 7 1/2 lbs. (veal or beef) cut in 3 to 4 inch pieces.
Cold water, 6 qts.
Mirepoix, 1 lb. (a mixture of 50% onions, 25% carrots and 25% celery)
Tomato paste, 4 oz.

 Sachet (ingredients tied in a cheesecloth bag):

Bay Leaves, 1
Dried Thyme, 1/4 tsp.
Peppercorns, crushed, 1/4 tsp.
Garlic cloves, crushed, 2
Parsley stems, 6
Yield: 1 gallon
Place the bones in a roasting pan, and brown in a 375 degree F oven. Turn the
bones occasionally.
Remove the bones and place them in a stockpot. Pour off the fat from the roasting
pan and reserve it.
Deglaze the roasting pan with part of the cold water.
Add the deglazing liquor and the rest of the cold water to the bones, covering them
completely. Bring to a boil and then simmer.
Add a portion of the reserved fat to the roasting pan and saute the mirepoix until
evenly browned. Then add it to the simmering stock.
Add the tomato paste and sachet to the stock and simmer for 6 to 8 hours, skimming
as necessary.
Strain, cool and refrigerate.
If you grocery store doesn't carry beef bones, ask the butcher to order some for you to pick
up.

Fish Stock Recipe

A fish stock recipe and a fish fumet recipe are similar. Their results can be used
interchangeably in most recipes. Both produce a clear stock with a pronounced fish flavor.
A fumet, however, is more strongly flavored and aromatic, and it contains an acidic
ingredient such as white wine or lemon juice.
Fish stock recipes usually require 30 to 45 minutes of cooking time.

Tips:
Never blanch fish bones and crustacean shells, because it removes too much flavor. They
may be sweated without browning. To sweat is to cook a food in a pan without browning
over low heat until the item softens and releases moisture. Sweating allows the food to

release its flavor more quickly when cooked with other foods.
When working with fish stock recipes, such as my favorites below, make sure the mirepoix
are cut small so that all their flavors can be extracted during the short cooking time.

Recipe for Fish Stock

*Fish bones or crustacean shells, 5 lbs.
*Water, 2 1/2 qts.
*Mirepoix, small dice, 1/2 lb. (a mixture of 50% onions, 25% carrots and 25% celery)
*Mushroom trimmings, 4 oz.
*Sachet (ingredients tied in a cheesecloth bag):
Bay Leaves, 1
Dried Thyme, 1/4 tsp.
Peppercorns, crushed, 1/8 tsp.
Parsley stems, 4
Yield: 1/2 gallon
Combine all ingredients in a stockpot.
Bring to a simmer and skim as necessary.
Simmer for 30 to 40 minutes.
Strain, cool and refrigerate.

Recipe for Fish Fumet

*Whole butter, 1 oz.
*Onion, small dice, 1/2 lb.
*Parsley stems, 6
*Fish bones, 5 lbs.
*Dry white wine, 1 1/2 cup
*Lemon juice, 1 oz.
*Cold water or fish stock, 3 1/2 qts.
*Mushroom trimmings, 1 oz.
*Fresh thyme, 1 sprig

*Lemon slices,5
Melt the butter in a stockpot.
Add the onion, parsley stems and fish bones. Cover the pot and sweat the bones over
low heat.
Sprinkle the bones with the white wine and lemon juice.
Add the cold water or fish stock, mushroom trimmings, thyme and lemon slices. Bring to
a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes, skimming frequently.
Stain, cool and refrigerate.

Vegetable Stock Recipe

A good vegetable stock recipe should produce a beautiful, clear and light-colored
stock. It has no gelatin content because no animal products are used. It can almost always
be substituted for a meat-based stock, which is helpful when preparing a more healthful or
vegetarian dish.
This stock is always on hand in my kitchen. I have also made many, many versions of
it, each to suit certain dishes.
Hint: Sometimes a stock with just one or two vegetables that will compliment a specific
dish very well is better than a stock with many vegetables.
Here's one of my favorite basic vegetable stock recipes:

Vegetable Stock Recipe

*Vegetable oil 1 fl. oz.
*Mirepoix, small dice 1 lb.
*Leek, whites 4 oz. and greens, chopped
*Garlic cloves, 2 chopped
*Fennel, small 2 oz. dice
*Turnip, diced 1 oz.
*Tomato, diced 1 oz.
*White wine 4 fl. oz.
*Water 2 qts.
*Sachet (ingredients tied in a cheesecloth bag):

 Bay Leaf 1
Dried Thyme 1/4 tsp.
Peppercorns, 1/8 tsp. crushed
Parsley stems 4
Yield: 1/2 gal.
Heat the oil. Add the vegetables and sweat for 10 minutes.
Add the white wine, water and sachet.
Bring the mixture to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook for 45 minutes.
Strain, cool and refrigerate.

Court Bouillon Recipe

A court bouillon recipe is not actually a stock but it is prepared in much the same manner
as stocks. It is French for "short broth". It is a flavored liquid, usually water and wine or
vinegar. Vegetables and seasonings have been simmered in it to impact its flavors and
aromas. It is most commonly used to poach foods such as fish and shellfish.
Here is my favorite recipe for court bouillon, one I've used for years:

Court Bouillon Recipe

*Water 2 qts.
*Vinegar 3 fl. oz.
*Lemon Juice 1 fl. oz.
*Mirepoix 12 oz. (see "Culinary Terms")
*Peppercorns 1/2 tsp. crushed
*Bay Leaves 2
*Dried thyme pinch
*Parsley stems 8
Yield: 1/2 gallon
1. Combine all ingredients and bring to a boil. 2. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 45
minutes. 3. Strain and use immediately or cool and refrigerate.

Nage

A nage is an aromatic court bouillon that is sometimes served as a light sauce or

broth with fish or shellfish. After the fish or shellfish is cooked, additional herbs or
vegetables are added to the cooking liquid. The used portion can be strained, chilled, and
clarified with egg whites and vegetables in the same manner as a consomme. Whole butter
or cream may be added to a nage for richness.

Glaze
A glaze is a dramatic reduction and concentration of a stock. Glazes are added to intensify
flavors in sauces and soups.
Procedure For Reducing A Stock To A Glaze
Simmer the stock over very low heat. Skim often and watch so it doesn't burn.
As it reduces, transfer the liquid into smaller saucepans. Strain the liquid each time it is
transferred into a smaller saucepan.
Strain it a final time, cool and refrigerate.