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682
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683
Andaluca
Spains most southerly region is the true home of typically Spanish experiences. Bullfighting,
tapas, flamenco, the guitar itself, all began in Andaluca and remain deeply embedded here.
Other aspects of Spanish life take on their most extreme forms here: Andalucian fiestas are
the noisiest and most colourful, Easter processions have more pageantry, the summer heat
is more broiling, the people are at their most vivacious, fun-loving and family-oriented. And
the coastal tourist resorts are the most densely crowded in the whole country.
But beyond the clich images, Andaluca is a land of surprises and contradictions. Away from
the mass-tourism resorts youll find some of the most pristine beaches in the country, on the
Cabo de Gata promontory and the Atlantic Costa de la Luz. Inland are green hills, white villages,
huge nature reserves (one-fifth of Andalucian territory is under environmental protection), and
the snowcapped highest mountain range on the Spanish mainland, the Sierra Nevada.
Andaluca is the proud home of Spains most famous building, that bejewelled diadem of
Islamic architecture, Granadas Alhambra, as well as other marvellous relics of medieval Islamic
Spain. The region also has a lesser-known but as fabulous heritage of cathedrals, palaces and
castles from later eras. Contemporary Andaluca is ever more cosmopolitan and fashionable, with
towns and cities full of glitzy boutiques, hip bars, stylish restaurants and pumping nightlife.
Deeply traditional yet ready to seize the modern world, Andalucians always live life to
the full. Few visitors to their land fail to get caught up in the fun.
HIGHLIGHTS
Crdoba
Seville
Granada
Sierra Nevada
Alpujarras valleys
Mlaga
Costa de
la Luz
ANDALUCA
684
A N D A LU C A H i s t o r y
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History
Around 1000 or 900 BC, Andalucas agricultural and mining wealth attracted Phoenician
trading colonies to coastal sites such as Cdiz,
Huelva and Mlaga. In the 8th and 7th centuries BC Phoenician influence gave rise to the
mysterious, legendarily wealthy Tartessos civilization, somewhere in western Andaluca.
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A N D A LU C A H i s t o r y 685
ANDALUCA
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50 km
30 miles
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SEVILLE
pop 714,000
HISTORY
Roman Seville, named Hispalis, was a significant port on Ro Guadalquivir, which is
navigable to the Atlantic Ocean 100km away.
Muslim Seville, called Ishbiliya, became the
most powerful of the taifas (small kingdoms)
into which Islamic Spain split after the Crdoba caliphate collapsed in 1031. Poet-king
Al-Mutamid (106991) presided over a languid, hedonistic court in the Alczar palace.
In the 12th century a strict Islamic sect from
Morocco, the Almohads, took over Muslim
Spain and made Seville capital of their whole
realm, building a great mosque where the cathedral now stands. Almohad power eventually
crumbled and Seville fell to Fernando III (El
Santo, the Saint) of Castilla in 1248.
By the 14th century Seville was the most
important Castilian city. Its biggest break
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came in 1503, when it was awarded a monopoly on Spanish trade with the American
continent. Seville puerto y puerta de Indias
(port and gateway of the Indies) rapidly
became one of the biggest, richest and most
cosmopolitan cities on earth, and a magnet for
everyone from priests and bankers to beggars
and conmen. Lavish Renaissance and baroque
buildings sprouted, and many geniuses of
Spains artistic golden age (the late 16th to late
17th centuries) were based here: painters such
as Zurbarn, Murillo and Valds Leal (though
Seville-born Velzquez left for Madrid), and
sculptors such as Juan Martnez Montas
and Pedro Roldn.
However a plague in 1649 killed half the
city and the Guadalquivir became more siltedup and less navigable for the increasingly
big ships of the day. In 1717 the Casa de la
Contratacin, the government office controlling commerce with the Americas, was
transferred to Cdiz. Another Seville plague
in 1800 killed 13,000 people. The beginnings
of industry in the mid-19th century brought
a measure of prosperity for some, but the
majority remained impoverished. Seville fell
very quickly to the Nationalists at the start of
the Spanish Civil War in 1936, despite resistance in working-class areas (which brought
savage reprisals).
Things looked up in the 1980s when Seville
was named capital of the new autonomous
S E V I L L E O r i e n t a t i o n 687
ORIENTATION
Seville straddles Ro Guadalquivir, with most
places of interest found on the rivers east
bank. The central area is a tangle of narrow,
twisting old streets and small squares, with
the exception of Plaza Nueva and the broad,
straight Avenida de la Constitucin. Just east
of Constitucin are the citys major monuments: the cathedral, La Giralda and the Alczar fortress-palace. The quaint Barrio de Santa
Cruz, east of the cathedral and the Alczar,
is a popular place to stay and eat. The true
centre of Seville, El Centro, is a little further
north, around Plaza de San Francisco and
Plaza Salvador. The area between Avenida
de la Constitucin and the river is called El
Arenal.
The train station and the two bus stations
are on the periphery of the central area, all
served by city buses that circle the centre
(p707): Prado de San Sebastin bus station is
650m southeast of the cathedral and within
SEVILLE IN
Two Days
On your first morning visit the cathedral (p690) and Giralda (p694) then wander through the
Barrio de Santa Cruz (p697) and enjoy lunch at the Corral del Agua (p704) or Restaurante
La Albahaca (p704). In the afternoon head over to Ro Guadalquivir and visit the Plaza de
Toros (p698) or the Museo de Bellas Artes (p698). Devote the evening to a relaxed tour of a
few tapas bars!
Give your second morning to the Alczar (p695) before heading up to El Centro to visit the
Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija (p697) and some of the city-centre shops. In the evening take
in a flamenco performance and check out some of the bars in El Centro (p705) or around the
Alameda de Hrcules (p705).
Four Days
On day three relax with a visit to the leafy Parque de Mara Luisa (p698) and its museums,
followed by whichever of the sights you missed on day one. Treat yourself to dinner at a classy
restaurant such as the Egaa Oriza (p704) or Enrique Becerra (p704). On day four venture out
to Santiponce to explore the Roman Itlica (p708) and Monasterio de San Isidoro del Campo
(p708). Wind up with a night out enjoying some live music and, if its the weekend, a nightclub
(p705).
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
686 S E V I L L E H i s t o r y
Isla de La
Cartuja
n
Sa
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s
a-Los R
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de Cuba
de Lujn
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de la Feria
sid
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(1km)
28
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Barrio
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Cruz
31
Car
lo
al
sV
Plaza
de
Espaa
7
To Jerez de la
Frontera (90km);
Cdiz (123km)
C
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Ca Rond
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To Hospital
Virgen del
Roco (900m)
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Merry
SIGHTS
& ACTIVITIES
nd
lle
ad
Sa
Baslica
e Pde Jess del Gran Poder...
la 2 C3
io La Macarena...............
de 3 D2
Baslica de
n
XI
a
V
Espacio Meteora..........................
4 D3
Ju
n
Sa
Isla Mgica...................................
5 B1
C
Lenguaviva..................................6 C3
Museo Arqueolgico................... 7 D8
Museo de Artes y Costumbres
Populares.................................8 D8
Sevilla Dance Centre....................9 C3
Ro
INFORMATION
Regional Tourist Office.................1 F4
500 m
0.3 miles
EATING
Casa Cuesta...............................11 A5
SLEEPING
Hotel San Gil..............................10 D2
Pir
ine
o
Da t o
ty
Ci
To Osuna (91km);
Mlaga (217km);
Granada (254km)
Av
To Airport (7km);
Carmona (35km);
Crdoba (143km)
as
ns
Ka
Ram
n y
Caja
TRANSPORT
l
Bus No C1 Stop..........................21 A3
Bus No C1 Stop..........................22 B2
Bus No C2 Stop..........................23 B1
Bus No C3 Stop..........................24 B4
Bus No C4 Stop..........................25 B4
Buses No C1 & 32......................26 F4
Buses No C2 & 32......................27 F4
Buses No C2 & C3.....................28 D2
Buses No C2 & C4.....................29 D2
Estacin de Autobuses Plaza de
Armas....................................30 B4
Sevilla Tour & Tour Por Sevilla
Bus Stop..............................(see 22)
Sevilla Tour & Tour Por Sevilla
Bus Stop.................................31 D7
Sevilla Tour Bus Stop..................32 A3
Tour Por Sevilla Bus Stop...........33 A3
SHOPPING
Mercadillo..................................
20 C2
Av
ENTERTAINMENT
El Almacn...............................(see 18)
Fun Club....................................17 C3
La Imperdible.............................18 B3
Weekend...................................19 B3
Av d
e Edu
ard
o
los
26
27
Estacin
Santa Justa
Habanilla....................................14 C2
La Otra Orilla.............................15 A4
Lisboa Music Club......................16 C2
CDRINKING
AlBulebar
Caf..............................12 C3
bade la
ida Central...............................13 C3
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cisco
Javie
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688 S E V I L L E
S E V I L L E 689
icia
Fe
690 S E V I L L E I n f o r m a t i o n
Medical Services
Centro de Salud El Porvenir (Map pp692-3; %955
INFORMATION
Money
Bookshops
Emergency
Ambulance (%061)
Polica Local (%092)
Polica Nacional (%091)
Internet Access
First Center (Map pp692-3; Avenida de la Constitucin
34; per hr 2; h9am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-9.30pm Sat,
noon-9pm Sun)
Internetia (Map pp692-3; Avenida Menndez Pelayo
46; per hr 2; h10.30-1.30am Mon-Fri, noon-1.30am
Sat & Sun)
Sevilla Internet Center (Map pp692-3; %954 50 02
75; Calle Almirantazgo 2; per min 0.05; h9am-10pm
Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun)
Internet Resources
Discover Sevilla (www.discoversevilla.com)
Explore Seville (www.exploreseville.com)
Seville Tourism (www.turismo.sevilla.org) The citys
informative official tourism site; it includes a great guide
to Seville for gays and lesbians, and an Accessible Guide
listing establishments with disabled access.
Laundry
Laundries here do the job for you (usually in
half a day), with washing, drying and folding
included in their prices.
Auto-Servicio de Lavandera Sevilla (Map pp692-3;
%954 21 05 35; Calle Castelar 2C; per load 6;
h9.30am-1.30pm & 5-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat)
La Segunda Vera (Map pp692-3; %954 54 11 48; Calle
Alejo Fernndez 3; per load 8; h9.30am-1.30pm &
5-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1.30pm Sat)
Media
El Giraldillo Andaluca-wide whats-on mag, free at tour-
Post
Post office (Map pp692-3; Avenida de la Constitucin 32)
Telephone
There are plenty of pay phones around the
centre. The following call centres offer inexpensive international calls:
Ciber Alczar (Map pp692-3; %954 21 04 01; Calle
lonelyplanet.com
Tourist Information
The sheer size of the broad, five-naved cathedral is obscured by a welter of interior decoration typical of Spanish cathedrals. The chapels along the northern and southern sides are
as rich in sculpture, stained glass and painting as any church chapels in Spain. Near the
western end of the northern side is the Capilla
de San Antonio, with Murillos large 1666 canvas
depicting the vision of St Anthony of Padua;
thieves excised the kneeling saint in 1874 but
he was found in New York and put back.
Dont forget to look up to admire the Gothic
vaulting and rich-hued stained glass. The oldest
stained glass, with markedly different colours,
in the four westernmost bays on either side of
the uppermost storey of the nave, and above
the five westernmost chapels on both sides
of the nave, was done between 1478 and 1483
by a German, Enrique Alemn.
SIGHTS
Sevilles major monuments, the cathedral, the
Giralda and the Alczar complex, are all just
east of Avenida de la Constitucin and south
of the citys true centre (El Centro). But theres
plenty more to see and do in El Centro and
neighbouring El Arenal, as well as in areas to
the south, north and west.
COLUMBUS TOMB
S E V I L L E S i g h t s 691
South of the Capilla Mayor are rooms containing many of the cathedrals art treasures.
The westernmost of these is the Sacrista de
los Clices (Sacristy of the Chalices), where
Goyas 1817 painting of the Seville martyrs
Santas Justa y Rufina (potter sisters who died
at the hands of the Romans in AD 287) hangs
above the altar. A lion licks Rufinas feet, as
reputedly happened when she was thrown
to the said beasts during her travails. The
large domed Sacrista Mayor (Main Sacristy) is
a Plateresque creation of 152847: the arch
over its portal has carvings of 16th-century
foods. The rooms centrepiece is the Custodia
de Juan de Arfe, a huge 475kg silver monstrance
made in the 1580s by Renaissance metal
smith Juan de Arfe. In a glass case are the city
keys handed to the conquering Fernando III
in 1248.
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
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692 S E V I L L E C e n t r a l S e v i l l e
S E V I L L E C e n t r a l S e v i l l e 693
de
eo ias
Pas Delic
las
694 S E V I L L E S i g h t s
C5
C2
F7
E7
C6
F5
F5
F5
A4
C6
D6
C5
D5
SLEEPING
Casa Sol y Luna........................ 34
Hostal Crdoba.........................35
Hostal Goya..............................36
Hostal Museo............................37
Hostal Residencia
Naranjo.................................38
Hostera del Laurel....................39
Hotel Alcntara.........................40
Hotel Amadeus.........................41
Hotel Madrid............................42
Hotel Maestranza..................... 43
Hotel Puerta de Sevilla..............44
Hotel Puerta de Triana.............. 45
Hotel San Francisco.................. 46
Hotel Simn.............................. 47
Hotel Vincci La Rbida..............48
Huspedes Dulces
Sueos.................................. 49
Las Casas de la Judera..............50
Las Casas del Rey de
Baeza.................................... 51
Oasis Backpackers Hostel......... 52
Pensin San Pancracio...............53
Un Patio en Santa Cruz.............54
EATING
Bar Alfalfa.................................55
Bar Laredo................................ 56
Bar Leves..................................57
Bodega Santa Cruz................... 58
Caf Bar Las Teresas..................59
Cervecera Giralda.................... 60
Corral del Agua.........................61
El Patio San Eloy....................... 62
Enrique Becerra......................... 63
Habanita................................... 64
Kiosco de las Flores...................65
La Bodega.................................66
La Trastienda.............................67
Restaurant La Cueva................ 68
Restaurante Egaa Oriza...........69
Restaurante La Albahaca...........70
Restaurante Modesto................71
Ristorante Cosa Nostra............. 72
Robles Placentines.................... 73
The beautifully domed Cabildo (Chapterhouse), in the southeastern corner of the cathedral, was built between 1558 and 1592 to
the designs of Hernn Ruiz, architect of the
Giralda belfry. High above the archbishops
throne at the southern end is a Murillo masterpiece, La Inmaculada. Eight Murillo saints
adorn the dome.
GIRALDA
In the northeastern corner of the cathedral interior youll find the passage for the climb up
to the belfry of the Giralda. The ascent is quite
easy, as a series of ramps built so that the
guards could ride up on horseback goes all
the way up. The climb affords great views.
Over 90m high, La Giralda was the minaret
of the mosque that stood on the site before the
D3
E5
E5
B1
B3
E6
E5
E5
A3
C4
F5
A4
D4
C5
B4
F5
F5
F3
D3
E5
F5
E3
C4
E4
D5
E5
D5
E6
C2
C4
D3
B7
E3
E3
D6
E7
E5
F5
A7
D4
DRINKING
Alambique................................ 74 B7
Antigedades........................... 75 D4
Bare Nostrum........................... 76 D3
Big Ben...................................(see 74)
Cabo Loco..............................(see 76)
Caf Isbiliyya............................ 77 A4
El Capote.................................. 78 A4
El Garlochi.................................79 E3
La Antigua Bodeguita............... 80 D3
La Rebtica............................... 81 D3
La Sapotales............................. 82 D3
M d'Aqu..............................(see 74)
Nao........................................(see 76)
P Flaherty Irish Pub................... 83 C5
Sirocca....................................(see 74)
ENTERTAINMENT
Boss..........................................84 B7
Casa de la Memoria de
Al-Andalus.........................(see 40)
Empresa Pags..........................85 B5
La Carbonera............................86 F4
Los Gallos..................................87 E6
Sol Caf Cantante......................88 E1
SHOPPING
El Corte Ingls...........................89
El Corte Ingls...........................90
El Corte Ingls...........................91
El Corte Ingls...........................92
TRANSPORT
Airport Bus Stop....................... 93
Bus No 32 Stop......................... 94
Bus No C2 Stop........................95
Bus No C3 Stop.........................96
Bus No C4 Stop.........................97
Cruceros Tursticos Torre de
Oro.......................................98
Estacin de Autobuses Prado
de San Sebastin.................. 99
Parking Paseo de Coln.......... 100
Renfe Ticket Office.................101
Sevilla Tour & Tour Por Sevilla
Bus Stop..............................102
B2
B3
B3
C2
C7
D2
E8
E7
E7
B7
F7
A5
B4
B6
lonelyplanet.com
S E V I L L E S i g h t s 695
Alczar
PATIO DE LA MONTERA
Whatever else Pedro I may have done, posterity owes him a big thank you for building this
wonderful palace inside the Alczar in the
1360s. His Muslim ally Mohammed V of Granada, the man responsible for the Alhambras
fabulous Palacio de los Leones, sent along
many of his best artisans to help. These were
joined by others from Toledo and Seville, and
their work, drawing on the traditions of the
Almohads and caliphal Crdoba, is a unique
synthesis of Iberian Islamic art.
Inscriptions on the palaces faade on the
Patio de la Montera encapsulate the collaborative nature of the enterprise. While one announces in Spanish that the buildings creator
was the very high, noble and conquering Don
Pedro, by the grace of God king of Castilla and
Len, another intones repeatedly in Arabic
There is no conqueror but Allah.
At the heart of the palace is the wonderful
Patio de las Doncellas (Patio of the Maidens),
surrounded by beautiful arches and exquisite
plasterwork and tiling. In 2004 archaeologists
uncovered its original sunken garden from
beneath a 16th-century marble covering.
The Cmara Regia (Kings Quarters) on the
northern side of the patio has two rooms with
stunning ceilings and more wonderful plasterwork and tiles. Just west is the small Patio
de las Muecas (Patio of the Dolls), the heart
of the palaces private quarters, with delicate
Granada-style decoration; indeed, plasterwork
was actually brought here from the Alhambra
in the 19th century when the mezzanine and
top gallery were added for Queen Isabel II.
The Cuarto del Prncipe (Princes Quarters), to
its north, has a superb wooden cupola ceiling
trying to recreate a starlit night sky and was
probably the queens bedroom.
The spectacular Saln de Embajadores (Hall
of Ambassadors), off the western end of the
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
INFORMATION
Auto-Servicio de Lavandera
Sevilla..................................... 1
Casa del Libro............................. 2
Centro de Salud El
Porvenir.................................. 3
Ciber Alczar...............................4
First Center................................. 5
Internetia....................................6
La Segunda Vera.........................7
LTC.............................................8
Municipal Tourist
Office..................................... 9
Post Office............................... 10
Regional Tourist Office............. 11
Seville Internet Center.............. 12
Turismo Sevilla......................... 13
lonelyplanet.com
696 S E V I L L E S i g h t s
lonelyplanet.com
ALCZAR
A
Plaza del
Triunfo
50 m
D
SIGHTS
Apeadero...........................................1
Baos de Doa Mara de Padilla
(Entrance).......................................2
Cmara Regia.....................................3
Cuarto del Prncipe.............................4
Jardn de las Danzas...........................5
Patio de la Montera...........................6
Patio de las Banderas (Exit).................7
Patio de las Doncellas.........................8
Patio de las Muecas..........................9
Patio del Crucero..............................10
Patio del Len..................................11
Patio del Yeso...................................12
Puerta del Len (Entrance)................13
Sala de Audiencias............................14
Sala de la Justicia..............................15
Sala de las Bvedas...........................16
Saln de Embajadores.......................17
Saln de Tapices...............................18
Saln del Techo de Felipe II..............19
1
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B3
B3
A3
B3
B2
B1
B3
A3
B2
A2
B2
A1
A3
B2
B3
B3
B3
B3
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ANDALUCA
Gardens
Archivo de Indias
On the western side of Plaza del Triunfo, the
Archive of the Indies (Map pp692-3; %954 21 12 34;
Calle Santo Toms) is the main archive on Spains
American empire, with 80 million pages of
documents dating from 1492 through to the
end of the empire in the 19th century. The
16th-century building, designed by Juan de
Herrera, was originally built as a merchants
exchange for commerce with the Americas.
It was closed for restoration work at the time
of writing.
With a lively history as a market square in Muslim times and then the prime spot for Inquisition burnings, Plaza de San Francisco has
been Sevilles main public square since the 16th
century. The southern end of the ayuntamiento
(City Hall) here is encrusted with lovely Renaissance carving from the 1520s and 30s.
Pedestrianised Calle Sierpes, heading north
from the plaza, and the parallel Calle Tetun/
Velzquez, are the hub of Sevilles fanciest
shopping zone. Between the two streets is the
18th-century Capilla de San Jos (Calle Jovellanos;
h8am-12.30pm & 6.30-8.30pm), with breathtakingly
intense baroque ornamentation.
The Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija (%954 22
78 02; Calle de la Cuna 8; whole bldg/ground fl only admission
7/4; h10.30am-1.30pm & 5-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat),
is still occupied by the ducal Medinaceli family. This extensive and splendid 16th-century
building is a mixture of diverse architectural
styles, with some beautiful tilework, artesonado (Mudjar wooden ceiling with interlaced beams leaving a pattern of spaces for
decoration) and gardens. The Patio Principal
features lots of wonderful 16th-century tiles,
intricate Mudjar plasterwork, classical statues
and busts of Roman historical and mythical
figures. The staircase from here to the upper
floor has magnificent tiling, with a great golden
artesonado dome above. If time or money is
limited, you could skip the top floor.
El Arenal
A short walk west from Avenida de la Constitucin brings you to the bank of Ro Guadalquivir, lined by a pleasant footpath. The
nearby district of El Arenal (Map pp6923)
is home to some of Sevilles most interesting sights.
TORRE DEL ORO
This 13th-century river-bank Islamic watchtower, which once crowned a corner of the
city walls, supposedly had a dome covered in
golden tiles, hence its name, Tower of Gold.
Inside is a small maritime museum (%954 22 24
19; admission 1; h10am-2pm Tue-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat &
Sun, closed Aug).
ANDALUCA
13
S E V I L L E S i g h t s 697
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pp688-9; %954 23 25 76; adult/EU citizen 1.50/free; h38pm Tue, 9am-8pm Wed-Sat, to 2pm Sun & holidays), with
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ry
to
as
big collection includes a room of gold jewellery from the mysterious Tartessos culture,
and fine collections of Iberian animal sculptures and beautiful Roman mosaics. Facing it
is the Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares (Map
Cal
al
Can
e
all
lle
Ca
pp688-9; %954 23 24 01; adult/EU citizen 1.50/free; h38pm Tue, 9am-8pm Wed-Sat, to 2pm Sun & holidays), whose
Ca
ll e
Ri
ll e a
Caavin
Gr
radas
e Pa
us d
Marq
Arjona
Coln 12; tours adult/over-65 4/3.20; hhalf-hourly 9.30am6.30pm, 9.30am-3pm bullfighting days) is one of the
de
Calle
Calle
Isla Mgica
ico
s
S E V I L L E W a l k i n g T o u r 699
Ca
t
l
lonelyplanet.com
Re
ye
s
HOSPITAL DE LA CARIDAD
lonelyplanet.com
Ca
lle
698 S E V I L L E S i g h t s
700 S E V I L L E C o u r s e s
COURSES
Language
Seville is one of the most popular cities in
Spain to study Spanish. The best schools offer
both short- and long-term courses at a variety
of levels:
Carpe Diem (Map pp692-3; %954 21 85 15; www
.carpediemsevilla.com; Calle de la Cuna 13)
TOURS
Feria de Abril
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S E V I L L E S l e e p i n g 701
SLEEPING
Theres a good range of places to stay in all
three of the most attractive areas Barrio de
Santa Cruz (close to the Alczar and within
walking distance of Prado de San Sebastin
bus station), El Arenal (convenient for Plaza
de Armas bus station) and El Centro.
Room rates in this section are for each establishments high season typically from March
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
lonelyplanet.com
702 S E V I L L E S l e e p i n g
S E V I L L E E a t i n g 703
TOP END
93; Calle Santa Mara La Blanca 21; s/d without bathroom 20/40,
s/d with bathroom 40/50; a) Sweet Dreams is a
El Centro
EATING
BUDGET
BUDGET
TOP END
El Arenal
.hotelsimonsevilla.com; Calle Garca de Vinuesa 19; s 4560, d 70-95; a) A charming small hotel in a
TOP END
.casasolyluna1.com; Calle Prez Galds 1A; s/d/tr without bathroom 22/38/60, d with bathroom 45) This is a first-rate
All rooms have firm beds, and balconies overlooking quiet, orange-tree lined streets.
Hostal Museo (Map pp692-3; %954 91 55 26; www
The immaculate rooms are endowed with solid
wooden furniture, comfortable beds, phone,
wi-fi and reading lamps. Theres a lift too.
MIDRANGE
MIDRANGE
ANDALUCA
MIDRANGE
BUDGET
ANDALUCA
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704 S E V I L L E D r i n k i n g
AUTHORS CHOICE
Corral del Agua (Map pp692-3; %954 22 07
14; Callejn del Agua 6; mains 12-18, men 23;
hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat) If youre hankering
for inventive food on a hot day, book a table
at Corral del Agua. Its cool, green courtyard
is a lovely spot to sample traditional stews
and Arabic-inspired desserts.
El Arenal
Mesn Cinco Jotas (Map pp692-3; %954 21 05 21; Calle
Castelar 1; tapas/media-raciones 3/7) Dine on succulent ham from pigs that have snuffled out
the finest acorns in the oak forests near the
village of Jabugo (p715). The solomillo ibrico
(Iberian pork sirloin) in sweet Pedro Ximnez
wine is divine.
RESTAURANTS
El Centro
TAPAS
Bar Laredo (Map pp692-3; cnr Calle Sierpes & Plaza de San
Francisco) Watch them slap together a variety of
bocadillos (bread roll with filling; 3) for rapid
consumption at this popular breakfast stop.
Habanita (Map pp692-3; %606 716456; Calle Golfo
3; raciones 6-9; hclosed Sun evening; v) This top
restaurant serves a winning variety of Cuban,
Andalucian and vegetarian food.
Triana
RESTAURANTS & CAFS
tion from 70-year-old shack to a glam conservatory (just check the photos), this eatery
doles out great pescato frito (fried fish).
DRINKING
Bars usually open 6pm to 2am weekdays,
8pm till 4am at the weekend. Drinking and
partying really get going around midnight on
Friday and Saturday (daily when its hot). In
lonelyplanet.com
El Arenal
S E V I L L E E n t e r t a i n m e n t 705
Triana
El Centro
ENTERTAINMENT
Alameda de Hrcules
In terms of hipness and trendy places to go
out, the Alameda is where its at. The areas
slightly run-down feeling allows the boho lot
to have the place more or less to themselves.
Its also the heartbeat of gay Seville.
Clubs
Clubs in Seville come and go fast but a few
stand the test of time. The partying starts
between 2am and 4am at the weekend. Dress
smarter (so no sportswear) at the weekend as
clubs become pickier about their punters.
Boss (Map pp692-3; Calle del Betis 67; admission free
with flyer; h8pm-7am Tue-Sun) Make it past the
two gruff bouncers and youll find Boss a top
dance spot. The music is a total mix.
Weekend (Map pp688-9; %954 37 88 73; Calle del Torneo 43; admission 7; h11pm-8am Thu-Sat) This is one
of Sevilles top live-music and DJ spots.
Lisboa Music Club (Map pp688-9; Calle Faustino lvarez
27; admission 6; hmidnight-6am Wed-Sat) A very hip
house and techno club.
Aduana (Map pp688-9; %954 23 85 82; www.aduana
.net; Avenida de la Raza s/n; admission varies; hmidnight-late
Thu-Sat) This huge dance venue, 1km south of
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
TAPAS
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706 S E V I L L E S h o p p i n g
Live Music
FLAMENCO
SHOPPING
Bullfights
Fights at Sevilles ancient, elegant, 14,000-seat
Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza (Map pp692-3;
Paseo de Cristbal Coln 12; www.realmaestranza.com) are
among the biggest in Spain. Sevilles crowds
are some of the most knowledgeable in the
bullfighting world and, many say, the most
demanding and difficult to please. The season
lonelyplanet.com
S E V I L L E G e t t i n g A r o u n d 707
Bus
GETTING AROUND
Train
The Estacin de Santa Justa (Map pp688-9; %954
41 41 11; Avenida Kansas City) is 1.5km northeast of
the city centre. Theres also a city-centre Renfe
ticket office (Map pp692-3; Calle Zaragoza 29).
Fourteen or more super-fast AVE trains,
reaching speeds of 280km/h, whiz daily to/
from Madrid (64 to 70, 2 hours). There
are cheaper Altaria services (55, 3 hours).
Bus
Buses C1, C2, C3 and C4 do useful circular
routes linking the main transport terminals and the city centre. The C1, from in
front of Estacin de Santa Justa, follows a
clockwise route via Avenida de Carlos V
(close to Prado de San Sebastin bus station
and the Barrio de Santa Cruz), Avenida de
Mara Luisa, Triana, Isla Mgica and Calle
de Resolana. The C2, heading west from
in front of Estacin de Santa Justa, follows
the same route in reverse. Bus 32, also from
outside Santa Justa, runs to/from Plaza de la
Encarnacin in El Centro.
The clockwise number C3 will take you
from Avenida Menndez Pelayo (near Prado
de San Sebastin bus station and the Barrio
de Santa Cruz) to the Puerta de Jerez, Triana,
Plaza de Armas bus station, Calle del Torneo,
Calle de Resolana and Calle de Recaredo.
The C4 does the same circuit anticlockwise
except that from Estacin de Autobuses Plaza
de Armas it heads south along Calle de Arjona and Paseo de Cristbal Coln to the
Puerta de Jerez, instead of crossing the river
to Triana.
Bus rides cost 1.
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
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708 S E V I L L E A r o u n d S e v i l l e
AROUND SEVILLE
Youll find Andalucas best Roman ruins at
Itlica and, on the rolling agricultural plains
east of Seville, fascinating old towns such
as Carmona and Osuna that bespeak many
epochs of history.
Santiponce
pop 7000
CARMONA
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Sights
Just over 1km southwest of the Puerta de Sevilla
is Carmonas impressive Roman necropolis (%954
14 08 11; Avenida de Jorge Bonsor; admission free; h9am-2pm
Tue-Sat 15 Jun-14 Sep; to 5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun rest
of year, closed holidays) You can climb down into a
was built mainly in the 15th and 16th centuries in a typical Carmona combination of
brick and stone. But its Patio de los Naranjos
was originally a mosques courtyard, and has a
Visigothic calendar carved into one of its pillars. Behind Santa Mara, the Museo de la Ciudad
OSUNA
Sights
Most impressive are the big buildings on
the hill overlooking the centre. On the way
up from Plaza Mayor, the Museo Arqueolgico
(%954 81 12 07; Plaza de la Duquesa; admission 1.50;
h11.30am-1.30pm & 5-6.30pm Tue-Sun, closed Sun afternoon Jul & Aug) has a good collection of mainly
H U E LVA P R O V I N C E H u e l v a 709
& 4-6.30pm Tue-Sun, closed Sun afternoon Jul & Aug), con-
Sleeping
Hostal Caballo Blanco (%954 81 01 84; Calle Granada
1; s/d 30/50; pa) The friendly White Horse
Inn is an old coaching inn with courtyard
parking and comfy rooms.
Hotel Palacio Marqus de la Gomera (%954 81 22
23; www.hotelpalaciodelmarques.com; Calle San Pedro 20; s/d
92/115; pai) This luxury hotel occupies
HUELVA PROVINCE
Andalucas westernmost province an after
thought to most travellers who are not on the
way to or from Portugal is in fact a land
of many and surprising rewards. Around
half the excellent, sandy, Atlantic beaches of
the Costa de la Luz lie along Huelvas coast.
Also here is most of that beautiful and hugely
important wildlife sanctuary, the Parque Nacional de Doana. Anyone with a historical
leaning will be fascinated by the Columbus
sites outside Huelva city. And northern
Huelva, focused on the town of Aracena, is
a beautiful rolling hill-country district just
waiting to be discovered on foot.
HUELVA
pop 145,000
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
710 H U E LVA P R O V I N C E Lu g a re s C o l o m b i n o s
Huelva stands between the Odiel and Tinto estuaries. The central area is about 1km square,
with the bus station at its western edge, on
Calle Doctor Rubio, and the train station at
its southern edge on Avenida de Italia. The
main street is Avenida Martn Alonso Pinzn
(also called Gran Va). The nearby Regional
tourist office (%959 65 02 00; Plaza Alcalde Coto Mora
2; h9am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun) is well
informed and helpful.
Sights
The Museo Provincial (%959 25 93 00; Alameda Sundheim 13; admission free; h2.30-8.30pm Tue, 9am-8.30pm
Wed-Sat, 9am-2.30pm Sun) focuses on Huelva provinces archaeological pedigree, especially its
millennia of mining history (see p714). Pride
of place goes to a huge restored Roman water
wheel and a reconstructed gold-and-wood
Phoenician funeral cart.
La Rbida
pop 400
The most important of the sites is the 14thcentury Monasterio de La Rbida (%959 35 04 11;
admission incl multilanguage audio-guide 3; h10am-1pm
& 4-7pm Tue-Sat Apr-Jul & Sep, 10am-1pm to 6.15pm Tue-Sat
Oct-Mar, 10am-1pm & 4.45-8pm Tue-Sat Aug, 10.45am-1pm
Sun year-round), visited several times by Colum-
Moguer
pop 13,000
Matalascaas
To Mazagn
(20km);
Parque Nacional
Huelva
de Doana
(39km)
e
zo d
BraTorre
la
Zona de
Protecci n
Centro de
Visitantes Jos
Antonio Valverde
Guadiamar
Centro de Visitantes
El Acebuche
A494
de
5 km
3 miles
Parque Natural
Zona de El Roco Coto del Rey
Protecci n
To Almonte de Doana
To Villamanrique
Centro de R o (12km); Bollullos del
de la Condesa (16km);
M Condado (21km);
Informacin
ad Sevillle (52km)
Seville (36km)
Parque Las Rocinas
re
Natural
A483
de Doana
o
Ca
pop 7000
PARQUE NACIONAL
0
DE DOANA
0
Marismas
Palos de la Frontera
de las
H U E LVA P R O V I N C E Pa r q u e N a c i o n a l d e D o a n a 711
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
LUGARES COLOMBINOS
lonelyplanet.com
Lucio de
los `nsares
Parque
Natural de
Doana
R o uivir
dalq
Gua
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
Park Boundary
Lucio del
Membrillo
Parque
Natural
de Doana
Trebujena
A471
Bonanza
To Sanlcar de
Barrameda (1km)
712 H U E LVA P R O V I N C E Pa r q u e N a c i o n a l d e D o a n a
El Roco
pop 1200
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H U E LVA P R O V I N C E W e s t o f H u e l v a 713
WEST OF HUELVA
The coast between Huelva and the Portuguese
border, 53km to the west, is lined nearly all the
way by a superb, broad, sandy beach backed
for long stretches by dunes and trees. The
coastal settlements emphasise tourism but
also retain port character.
Punta Umbra, Huelvas summer playground,
has a friendly atmosphere and an attractive location between the Atlantic beach and the peninsular wetlands of the Marismas del Odiel.
Some great seafood eateries are dotted along
the ocean beach. Further west, Isla Cristina has
a bustling fishing port and plenty more of
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
714 H U E LVA P R O V I N C E M i n a s d e R i o t i n t o
MINAS DE RIOTINTO
pop 4500 / elevation 420m
Minero, Minas de Riotintos only accommodation has plain but acceptable rooms and a
handy restaurant.
Hotel Vzquez Daz (%/fax 959 58 09 27; personal
ARACENA
pop 7000 / elevation 730m
H U E LVA P R O V I N C E A r a c e n a 715
WEST OF ARACENA
The hills, valleys and villages of Huelvas portion of the Sierra Morena form one of Andalucas most surprisingly beautiful landscapes.
Most of the villages grew up around fortresslike
churches, or hilltop castles constructed in medieval times to deter the Portuguese. The area
is threaded by well maintained walking trails,
with ever-changing vistas making for some
of the most delightful rambling in Andaluca.
Good walking routes are particularly thick in
the area between Aracena and Cortegana, making attractive villages such as Aljar, Castao del
Robledo and Almonaster la Real good bases.
Discovery Walking Guides Sierra de Aracena
and accompanying Sierra de Aracena Tour &
Trail Map are terrific aids to the walker here.
One kilometre above Aljar (towards Fuenteheridos), the Pea de Arias Montano has magical
views, as does Cerro de San Cristbal (915m), a
4km uphill drive from Almonaster. Almonasters 10th-century mezquita (mosque; admission free;
h8.30am-7pm approx) is a gem of Islamic architecture. Jamn serrano from nearby Jabugo is
acclaimed as the best in Spain and the villages
Carretera San Juan del Puerto is lined with bars
and restaurants waiting for your verdict too!
Recommended lodgings:
Posada del Castao (%959 46 55 02; www.posada
delcastano.com; Calle Jos Snchez Calvo 33, Castao del
Robledo; s/d incl breakfast 35/49) Characterfully converted village house whose helpful young British owners
have walkers foremost in mind.
Hotel Casa Garca (%959 14 31 09; www.hotelcasa
garcia.com; Avenida San Martn 2, Almonaster la Real; s/d
37/53; mains 8-14; pa) Stylish small hotel with
highly regarded restaurant.
La Posada (%959 12 57 12; laposadadealajar.com; Calle
Mdico Emilio Gonzlez 2, Aljar; s/d incl breakfast 45/55)
Very cosy inn whose owners are keen walkers themselves.
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
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l o n eaccommodation
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D2
D3
E3
D2
D3
D3
C2
D1
B2
D4
C2
C3
C2
C2
C3
D4
A4
C3
D3
C2
C2
CF
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Salvochea
A
34
C lamed a Apodaca
Ayuntamiento.............................. 6 D3 EATING
Ca
Plaza de
Plaza de la
29
de
lle
Bar Zapata.............................23
Baluarte de la Candelaria..............7 B1
Argelles
Hispanidad
rn
nriq
Ca
ue
str
de
Castillo de Santa Catalina.............8 A3 El Aljibe................................. 24
de
o
la
las
Plaza
9
C4
Cathedral.....................................
El
Faro...................................25
38
B
M
arc
Parque del
arin
Mentidero
Plaza de
as
Estacin Martima......................10 D2 Freidura Las Flores................26
Plaza a C
Genovs
Espaa
Anto
Mina
n
11
C3
Mercado
Central........................
La
Cigea............................27
io
Plaza
L
12
CS
10
1 pez
ta R
San
Museo de Cdiz.........................12 C2 La Gorda Te Da De Comer.....28
Plaza
Ca
C
osa
Ca C
30
lia
lle Antonio
San
San
l
13
B3
Museo
de
las
Cortes
de
Cdiz.....
Mesn
Cumbres Mayores......29
l
22
e
Plaza
Ce
Francisco
41
32
C P e d
Oratorio de San Felipe Neri........14 B3
Fragela
rv
ro
no
l
an
Plaza
21 era e Calle Beato
CP
va
Torre
Tavira...............................
C3
15
DRINKING
u
t
n
re
e
s
s
z G de Falla
Cal
de
Diego de Cdiz
Ge uq
Caf Poniente........................30
aldo
36
le
17 C L
lC
s
Plaza de San Benju
33
as
Cambalache...........................31
Cal
ta
me
28
t il
Drsena
le S Felipe Neri
as
a
l
Calle D
g
o
Medussa................................32
a
del
cram
Sa
C Encar Mara
CJ
ent
Puerto
C
Woodstock Bar......................33
os
rnac n
14
o
i n
del
Call
31
e So
Tor
8
lano
13
o
Plaza del
Paseo de
ENTERTAINMENT
C
Palillero
42 Canalejas
Cal
de Hospita
15
Central Lechera......................34
Mu j l
Fedulce
C Mo
hy
eres
C Marqus
Santo ntas
El Malecn.............................35
23
s
Cristo
del Real Tesoro
C N
e
ar
icara
Gran Teatro Falla....................36
C
43
n
4
Calle Moreno de Mora
40
gu a
za
39
an 19 oln
Pea Flamenca La Perla......... 37
Plaza
Plaza
M
Plaza de
C
Candelaria
Libertad
l
a
Topete
b
ue
5
11
C ari
Cenco
C ri st
rto Plaza de
TRANSPORT
de AM
26
li
Playa de
Sevilla
rteagaa
20
C Marqus
Fla m
o
e Astillero
27
b
Comes Bus Station.................38
de Cdiz
Av d
la Caleta
C De
s
Ar
3
sam
a
C Cardoso
Los Amarillos Bus Stop...........39
2
16
i a Plaza
Pa
18
pelota
rad
Muelle Reina Victoria.............40
C
C Porlier
6
de la C
Pl o
n
J
a
S
u
Plaza de Espaa Bus Stop.......41
Plaza
San
e
l
a
l
Catedral
a
n
c
C
ia
24
Barrio Del Juan de Dios C
Barrio De
Underground Car Park...........42
S
o
Ppulo
pran
La Via
C
Viajes Socialtur...................... 43
9
i
Cam
s
Mer
Plaza de
ce
po
d
del Fray Fliz
25
uela
S ur
C Venez
C T
Train
enie
n te
Station
To Castillo de
And
San Sebastian (300m)
j a r
C
Co
nc
ep
Puertas de
ci
n
Tierra
ATLANTIC
Are
nal
To Playa de la Victoria (2km); Hospital Puerta
OCEAN
del Mar (2.5km); Barabass (3km); Secorbus
Bus Stop (4km); AP4 (13km); Jerez de la
37
Plaza de la
Constitucin Frontera (35km); Vejer de la Frontera (51km)
C2
D3
D3
D3
C2
A2
D3
300 m
0.2 miles
D3
C3
D3
D3
INFORMATION
Enred@2......................................1
Municipal Tourist Office
(Information Kiosk)................. 2
Municipal Tourist Office (Main
Office).....................................3
Post Office...................................4
Regional Tourist Office................5
C2
0
0
SLEEPING
Casa Caracol..........................16
Hospedera Las Cortes de
Cdiz.................................17
Hostal Baha..........................18
Hostal Canalejas....................19
Hostal Fantoni.......................20
Hostal San Francisco..............21
Parador Hotel Atlntico..........22
35
Disco
Bars
Baha
de
Cdiz
s
Ad
olf
Ca
l le
Mar
qu
a
nt
Sa
s
ln
CE
C
JosSan
s
Pa ar
C
e
lo o d
s e
l ll
Ca
l
l
e
Die
g
C
Na Jes o Arias
zar s
eo
Calle Jos
Celestino Mutis
Calle San
Flix
Av
en
id
a
D
oc
to
GO
m
a
Ul
la
CDIZ
Calle Cruz
Calle Sagasta
a
nid
Ave
q ue
Du
as
os
illa
s
Alameda
ha
Co
m
Punta
Candelaria
C
B
Ai uen
res os
c
An
les
Ca
C L
iber
tad
rill
a
m
Co
Ca
lle
Zo
r
ANDALUCA
te
Tin
lle
Ca
las
io
ar
de
nza
al Z
a
s
Ro
l
de
ard
en
de
C a rr a
n de
CC
C
La lsab
Cat el
lic
a
CM
Ranac nuel
s
Ra m
pat
a
History
a
Avenid
Information
id
en
Av
ta
ues
Njera
de
ANDALUCA
C
EI Fernan
Cato do
lico
pop 132,000
Orientation
de
l
CDIZ
Av
C
b
FeliO
x Siosbo
to
C D I Z P R O V I N C E C d i z 717
ien
to
CDIZ PROVINCE
lonelyplanet.com
De
sc
ub
rim
lonelyplanet.com
C Bot
ica
C Sa
nt
Dom
ingo
o
716 C D I Z P R O V I N C E C d i z
718 C D I Z P R O V I N C E C d i z
MUSEO DE CDIZ
Mina; adult/EU citizen 1.50/free, admission free Sun; h2.308pm Tue, 9am-8.30pm Wed-Sat, 9.30am-2.30pm Sun) faces
CATHEDRAL
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COASTAL WALK
Sleeping
C D I Z P R O V I N C E C d i z 719
de Cdiz, sport attractive period-style furnishings and plenty of modern comforts. The hotel
also has a roof terrace, gym and Jacuzzi.
Parador Hotel Atlntico (%956 22 69 05; www
.parador.es; Avenida Duque de Njera 9; s/d 103/129;
paisw) Cdizs modern parador is
Eating
Freidura Las Flores (%956 22 61 12; Plaza de Topete 4;
seafood per 250g 2.50-8) Cdiz specialises in fried
fish and seafood, and Las Flores, a kind of
self-respecting fish and chippery, is one of the
best places to sample it. To try a combination,
have a surtido (mixed fry-up).
Bar Zapata (Plaza Candelaria; montaditos 1.50-2, raciones 6-10) The crowd often spills out of the
door at this highly popular but very narrow
street-corner tapas joint. The scrumptious
montaditos (open sandwiches) are a specialty,
and the jazz/rock/blues soundtrack adds to
the enjoyment.
El Aljibe (%956 26 66 56; www.pablogrosso.com;
Calle Plocia 25; tapas 2.50-4, mains 10-15) Refined
restaurant upstairs and civilised tapas bar
downstairs, El Aljibe is one of the best bets
in town. The cuisine developed by gaditano
chef Pablo Grosso is a delicious combination of the traditional and the adventurous.
He stuffs his solomillo ibrico (Iberian pork
sirloin) with Emmental cheese, ham and piquant peppers.
La Cigea (%956 25 01 79; Calle Plocia 2; mains 1316; hclosed Sun) A few steps off Plaza San Juan
de Dios, the friendly and relaxed Stork has
a Dutch chef who prepares adventurous and
delicious food.
Mesn Cumbres Mayores (%956 21 32 70; Calle
Zorrilla 4; tapas 1.50-2, mains 7-17) This ever-busy
place, dangling with hams and garlic, has an
excellent tapas bar in the front and a small
restaurant in the back. In the bar its hard to
AUTHORS CHOICE
La Gorda Te Da De Comer (Calle General Luque
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720 C D I Z P R O V I N C E C d i z
Entertainment
Dance till dawn? Head out towards Punta
de San Felipe (known as La Punta) on the
northern side of the harbour. Here, a line of
disco bars thumps from around 3am to 6am
Thursday to Saturday nights, while El Malecn
(%956 22 45 51; Paseo Pascual Pery; hfrom midnight ThuSat) is Cdizs top Latin dance spot.
Pea Flamenca La Perla (%956 25 91 01; Calle Carlos
Ollero s/n) Cdiz is one of the true homes of fla-
Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com
C D I Z P R O V I N C E E l Pu e r t o d e S a n t a M a r a 721
El Puerto, across the bay and 10km northeast of Cdiz (22km by road), is easily and
enjoyably reached by ferry. It was here that
Columbus met the owner of his flagship (the
Santa Mara), Juan de la Cosa, who was his
pilot in 1492. Later, many palaces were built in
El Puerto on the proceeds of American trade.
Today its one of Cdiz provinces triangle of
sherry-making towns, and its beaches, sherry
bodegas (wineries) and tapas bars make it a
fine outing from Cdiz or Jerez. In summer
it jumps.
Sleeping
Hostal Costa Luz (%956 05 47 01; www.hostalcostaluz
.com; Calle Nio del Matadero 2; s/d 40/63; pai)
Friendly, modern hostal in the bullring vicinity with 11 appealing, medium-sized rooms.
pool, valuable artworks and gourmet restaurant await your pleasure, if your pockets
are deep enough for this luxurious hotel in a
converted 18th-century monastery.
Eating
Calle Misericordia sports an enticing string
of tapas bars.
Bodeguita La Antigua (Calle Misericordia 8; tapas 3)
Tapas menus are in English and French. Try
the albondigas de pescado (fish balls).
Romerijo (%956 54 12 54; Ribera del Marisco s/n;
seafood per 250g from 4) A huge, always busy El
Puerto institution, Romerijo has two buildings, one boiling the seafood, the other frying
it. Choose from the displays and buy by the
quarter-kilogram in paper cones.
Restaurante Shawarma (%956 87 64 23; Ribera del
Marisco 11; falafel roll 3.50, mains 9; v) Vegetarians
will love this small restaurant with unbeatable falafel. The authentic Lebanese-Greek
food (with some meat options too) provides
a welcome change.
Casa Luis (%956 87 20 09; Ribera del Marisco s/n;
tapas/raciones 3/8; h1.30-4pm & 9-11pm Tue-Sat, 1.304pm Sun) This tightly packed little den with
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Drinking
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722 C D I Z P R O V I N C E S a n l c a r d e B a r r a m e d a
BUS
The train station is a 10-minute walk northeast of the town centre, beside the Cdiz-Jerez
road. Up to 36 trains travel daily to Jerez (from
1.30, 12 minutes) and Cdiz (from 2.20, 30
to 35 minutes), and 10 or more daily to Seville
(6 to 18, 1 hours).
SANLCAR DE BARRAMEDA
pop 63,000
Sanlcar stretches 2.5km along the southeastern side of the estuary and is fronted by
a long, sandy beach. Calzada del Ejrcito (La
Calzada), running inland from the seafront
Paseo Martimo, is the main avenue. A block
beyond its inland end is Plaza del Cabildo, the
central square. The bus station is on Avenida
de la Estacin, 100m southwest of the middle
of La Calzada. The helpful tourist office (%956
36 61 10; www.turismosanlucar.com; h10am-2pm, variable
afternoon hr) is on Calzada del Ejrcito.
Sights
From Plaza del Cabildo, cross Calle Ancha to
Plaza San Roque and head up Calle Bretones,
which becomes Calle Cuesta de Beln and
doglegs up to the Palacio de Orleans y Borbon
(admission free; h10am-1.30pm Mon-Fri), a beautiful
neo-Mudjar palace that was built as a summer home for the aristocratic Montpensier
family in the 19th century but is now Sanlcars town hall. From its entrance at the top
of Calle Cuesta de Beln, a block to the left
along Calle Caballeros, is the 15th-century
Iglesia de Nuestra Seora de la O (h9am-1pm Sun,
7.30-8pm Sun-Fri). Next door is the Palacio de los
Duques de Medina Sidonia (%956 36 01 61; www
.fcmedinasidonia.com in Spanish; Plaza Condes de Niebla 1;
admission 3; h11am & noon Sun by appointment, caf
9am-2pm & 3.30-9pm daily), the large, rambling and
Sherry Bodegas
Sanlcar produces a distinctive sherrylike
wine, manzanilla (see the boxed text Liquid
Gold, opposite). Three bodegas give tours for
which you dont need to book ahead:
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C D I Z P R O V I N C E S a n l c a r d e B a r r a m e d a 723
LIQUID GOLD
Sherry is famous worldwide and, here in sherry-producing country, the drink has made many a
familys fortune. Jerez coac (brandy), widely drunk in Spain, is also profitable 63 million bottles
are produced annually. There are several types of sherry and it has a classy, refined image. Sherry
houses (bodegas) are often beautiful buildings in extensive lush gardens, and have well-groomed,
well-spoken, multilingual guides who can show you around. A tour will take you through the
areas where the wine is stored and aged, inform you about the process and the sherry producers,
and, the best bit, give you a tasting.
Sherry is a fortified wine thats produced in the towns of Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de
Santa Mara and Sanlcar de Barrameda, and a few other places nearby. A combination of climate,
chalky soils that soak up the sun but retain moisture, and a special maturing process called the
solera system produce this unique wine.
A sherry can be a fino (dry and the colour of straw) or an oloroso (sweet, dark and with
a strong bouquet). An amontillado is an amber, moderately dry fino with a nutty flavour and
higher alcohol content. A manzanilla is an unfortified camomile-coloured fino from Sanlcar de
Barrameda; it slips down nicely with seafood and its delicate flavour comes from sea breezes
wafting into the wineries there.
The production of your bottle of sherry begins with the pressing of harvested sherry grapes.
The resulting must is left to ferment. Within a few months a frothy veil of yeast (flor) appears
on the surface. The wine is transferred to the cellars in big barrels of American oak, which add
to its flavour.
Wine enters the solera process after one year. The barrels, about five-sixths full, are lined up
in rows at least three barrels high: those on the bottom layer contain the oldest wine. Around
three times a year, 10% of the wine from these is drawn off and replaced with the same amount
of wine from the layer above. The wines are left to age for between three and seven years. A
small amount of brandy is added to fortify the wine before bottling.
Sleeping
Book well ahead at holiday times.
Hostal La Bohemia (%956 36 95 99; Calle Don Claudio 5; s/d 25/40) Pretty, folksy-painted chairs
dot the corridors of this little hostal, 300m
northeast of Plaza del Cabildo; rooms are
neat and clean.
Hotel Los Helechos (%956 36 13 49; www.hotel
loshelechos.com; Plaza Madre de Dios 9; s/d 47/62; pa)
Off Calle San Juan, 200m from Plaza del Cabildo, the brightly decorated rooms here are
mostly set around two plant-filled patios.
Hotel Posada de Palacio (%956 36 48 40; www
sumptuous lodging is this 18th-century mansion in the upper part of town. Furniture is
old-style and heavy.
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Arcos de la
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Seville (100km)
A2
B4
B2
C3
A3
C4
C4
C3
37
Train Station
TRANSPORT
Bus Station...............................37 E4
D4
A3
D3
A3
ENTERTAINMENT
Bereber....................................33
Caf Teatro La Guarida del
ngel.................................. 34
El Lag Tio Parilla.....................35
Teatro Villamarta..................... 36
C4
C3
C3
C2
D3
C4
D3
EATING
Bar Juanito...............................23
El Almacn...............................24
El Gallo Azul.............................25
El Poema..................................26
La Carbon..............................27
La Vega...................................28
Mesn El Patio.........................29
DRINKING
Bar Dos Deditos.......................30 C4
La Carbonera..........................31 C3
Reino de Len..........................32 C4
D4
D3
D4
D4
D3
C3
C4
SLEEPING
Hostal Las Palomas..................16
Hostal/Hotel San Andrs..........17
Hotel Casa Grande.................. 18
Hotel Doa Blanca...................19
Hotel La Albarizuela.................20
Hotel Palacio Garvey................21
Nuevo Hotel............................22
B2
A3
C1
A1
Iglesia de Santiago....................12
Museo Arqueolgico................13
Sandeman................................14
Zoo Jerez..................................15
400 m
0.2 miles
INFORMATION
Calle Salvatierra
Ciberjerez..................................1 C3
Post Office.................................2 C3
Tourist Office.............................
3 C2
Manuel
SIGHTSR& ACTIVITIES
Alczar...................................... 4
Antiguo Cabildo........................5
Baslica de Nuestra Seora de la
Merced..................................6
Cathedral...................................7
Centro Andaluz de Flamenco.....8
Iglesia de San Dionisio................9
Iglesia de San Mateo................10
Iglesia de San Miguel...............11
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del Arte Ecuestre (100m)
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Entertainment
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The centre of Jerez is between Alameda Cristina and Plaza del Arenal, connected by Calle
Larga and Calle Lancera (both pedestrianised). There are plenty of banks and ATMs
on and around Calle Larga. The old quarter
is west of Calle Larga.
Ciberjerez (Calle Santa Mara 3, internet per hr 2;
Ma
ri
alle
Spain holds few more idyllic dining experiences than tucking into succulent fresh seafood while watching the sun go down over the
Guadalquivir at Bajo de Gua, and washing it
down with a glass or two of manzanilla.
Restaurante Virgen del Carmen (Bajo de Gua
s/n; fish mains 6-10) This is one of the best of
several restaurants at Bajo de Gua. Decide
whether you want your fish plancha (grilled)
or frito (fried), and dont skip the starters:
langostinos (king prawns) and the juicy coquines al ajillo (clams in garlic), both 9, are
specialities.
Casa Bigote (%956 36 26 96; Bajo de Gua; fish mains
7-14; hclosed Sun) The food here gets excellent reviews from everyone and the place is
usually packed. Do try the house speciality
hamburguesas de bacalao con salsa, codburgers with a sauce (8.50).
Cafs and bars, many serving manzanilla
from the barrel, surround Plaza del Cabildo:
Casa Balbino (Plaza del Cabildo 11; tapas 1.50) is a must
for tapas.
Eating
C D I Z P R O V I N C E J e re z d e l a F r o n t e r a 725
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724 C D I Z P R O V I N C E J e re z d e l a F r o n t e r a
726 C D I Z P R O V I N C E J e re z d e l a F r o n t e r a
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C D I Z P R O V I N C E J e re z d e l a F r o n t e r a 727
Eating
TAPAS
Sleeping
Most rates go sky-high during the Feria del
Caballo and you need to book ahead. Buffet
breakfasts cost 6 to 7.
Hostal/Hotel San Andrs (%956 34 09 83; www.hotel
sanandres.org; Calle Morenos 12; without bathroom 20/28,
s/d with bathroom 24/38; ai) The friendly San
ment has transformed a plain hostal into an appealing choice with a faint Moroccan theme.
Hotel La Albarizuela (%956 34 68 62; www.hotel
albarizuela.com; Calle Honsario 6; r 66; pa) An
ultra-modern place popular with an under30s crowd, an easy walk east of the centre. A
celeste-with-grey-trim colour scheme complements clean-cut lines.
Nuevo Hotel (%956 33 16 00; www.nuevohotel
.com; Calle Caballeros 23; s/d 45/74; aw) In a modernised 19th-century mansion, this popular,
family-run hotel provides comfortable rooms
with TV and winter heating. It has a bright
dining room. You need to book.
Hotel Casa Grande (%956 34 50 70; www.casa
grande.com.es; Plaza de las Angustias 3; s/d 70/91, ste 164;
paiw) This brilliant hotel occupies a
It has lofty ceilings, warm tones and a collection of old radios. Above all, the food is
terrific and theres a huge choice, especially
of prawn dishes.
La Carbon (%956 34 74 75; Calle San Francsco
de Paula 2; mains 9-28; hclosed Tue) This popular, cavernous restaurant, with an eccentric
menu and young wait staff, occupies an old
winery. Specialities include grilled meats and
fresh fish.
Drinking
A few bars in the narrow streets north of Plaza
del Arenal can get lively with an under-30
crowd late in the evening: try Bar Dos Deditos (Plaza Vargas 1), Reino de Len (Calle Ferros) and
La Carbonera (Calle Letrados 7). Northeast of the
city centre, La Plaza de Canterbury has bars
around a central courtyard that attract a 20s
crowd, as do the music bars a little further
northeast on Avenida de Mjico.
Entertainment
For whats-on information, check at the tourist office, visit www.turismojerez.com and
look out for posters. A hip venue for live
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C D I Z P R O V I N C E Pa r q u e N a t u r a l S i e r r a d e G r a z a l e m a 729
ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA
Sights
confection, and the 17th-century Palacio Mayorazgo, now a community building, with a
Renaissance faade and pretty patios.
Tours
One-hour guided tours (5) of the old towns
monuments start from the tourist office at
10.30am Monday to Saturday. Tours of Arcos
pretty patios start at noon Monday to Friday.
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INFORMATION
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14
La Casa Grande......................... 12 D2
4
5
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9
15
Parador Casa del Corregidor...... 13 D2
7
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10 Mal
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El Convento............................... 14 D2
N
8
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Mesn Don Fernando................ 15 D2
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To Jerez de la
Frontera (30km)
nz
Go
do
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TRANSPORT
Bus Station................................. 16 A1
an o
d
SLEEPING
Hostal San Marcos....................... 9 D2
Hotel El Convento...................... 10 D2
Hotel Real de Veas..................... 11 C1
o
ate
D2
C2
D2
D2
D2
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El Bosque
pop 1800 / elevation 385m
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ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA
ta
Al
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730 C D I Z P R O V I N C E Pa r q u e N a t u r a l S i e r r a d e G r a z a l e m a
Grazalema
pop 2200 / elevation 825m
The most popular travellers base in the sierra, Grazalema is a picture-postcard, red-tileroofed village tucked into a corner of beautiful
mountain country beneath the rock-climbers
crag Pen Grande. Local products include
pure wool blankets and rugs.
The village centre is the pretty Plaza de Espaa, overlooked by the 18th-century Iglesia
de la Aurora. Here youll find the tourist office
(%956 13 20 73; h10am-2pm & 4-9pm), with a shop
selling local products. Two banks on Plaza de
Espaa have ATMs.
Horizon (%/fax 956 13 23 63; www.horizonaventura.com;
Calle Corrales Terceros 29; per person from 13) is a highly
experienced adventure firm that will take you
climbing, bungee jumping, canyoning, caving, paragliding or walking, with Englishspeaking guides.
SLEEPING & EATING
Zahara de la Sierra
pop 1600 / elevation 550m
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C D I Z P R O V I N C E S o u t h e r n C o s t a d e l a Lu z 731
Vejer de la Frontera
pop 13,000 / elevation 190m
This old-fashioned white town looms mysteriously atop a rocky hill above the busy N340,
50km from Cdiz. Its experiencing an influx
of foreign residents and is a good base for
outdoor activities, with some charming places
to stay. Buses stop on Avenida Los Remedios,
about 500m below the town centre and next
to the tourist office (%956 45 17 36; www.turismovejer
.com; h10am-2pm Mon-Fri, afternoon & weekend opening
hr vary depending on season).
Vejers much-reworked castle (h10am-2pm)
over several floors and has peaceful, comfortable rooms with Islamic dcor. La Casa has a
great Arabic restaurant, El Jardn del Califa
(mains 7.50 to 18), extending out into the
garden.
La Bodeguita (%956 45 15 82; Calle Marqus de
Tamarn 9; tapas 1) This hip bar has good vibes,
breakfast (in summer), excellent tapas and an
extensive music collection.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
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In the summer season, good bars include Los Castillejos at the eastern end of the village and CafBar Ketama in the middle. Open year-round are
super-relaxed Las Dunas on the road out to Cabo
de Trafalgar (with music and busy pool table)
and La Pequea Lulu (www.lapequenalulu.com; Avenida
Trafalgar s/n), a cosy French-run caf/bar at the far
eastern end of the village, with funky dcor and
often live music, even some jammin.
EATING
Bar Saboy (Carril de Mangueta, Zahora; set men 10, tagines 9) The Saboy, 200m from the main road
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Bolonia
pop 125
C D I Z P R O V I N C E Ta r i f a 733
TARIFA
pop 15,500
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0
0
TARIFA
200 m
0.1 miles
To Algeciras
(17km)
To Bar Obanano
(80m)
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3
24 17
C Coronel
Moscard
18
5
Gu
zm
Ca
n
Plaza de
Santa Mara
4
12
lle
r an d a
oro
Calle Mara C
nel
Strait of
Gibraltar
EATING
Ali Baba..................................... 20 D2
Port
Caf Azul Bar............................. 21 C2
La Trattoria................................ 22 C3
DRINKING
Bar Misiana................................ 23 C3
Bodega de Casa Amarilla........... 24 D3
Soul Caf................................... 25 C3
SHOPPING
Soul Caf Store.......................... 26 C3
Tarfa.......................................... 27 B2
TRANSPORT
Bus Stop for West Coast
Beaches.................................. 28 C3
Ferry Port Entrance.................... 29 C3
FRS............................................. 30 B2
Orientation
wash, dry & fold 7-8; h10.30am-2pm & 6-8pm MonFri, 9.30am-3pm Sat)
Pandoras Papelera (Calle Sancho IV El Bravo; internet
per hr 3; h10am-2pm & 5-9pm)
Polica Local (%956 61 41 86; Ayuntamiento, Plaza de
Santa Mara)
Post office (Calle Coronel Moscard 9)
Tourist office (%956 68 09 93; www.tarifaweb.com;
Paseo de la Alameda; h10.30am-2pm & 4-6pm, 6-8pm
Junmid-Sep, Mon-Fri)
Information
Centro de Salud (Health Centre; %956 68 15 15/35;
Calle Amador de los Ros)
Beaches
On the isthmus leading out to Isla de las Palomas, Playa Chica is sheltered but extremely
small. From here the spectacular Playa de los
Lances stretches 10km northwest to the huge
sand dune at Ensenada de Valdevaqueros.
Old Town
The Mudjar Puerta de Jerez was built after the
Reconquista. Look in at the bustling market
(Calle Coln) before wending your way to the
mainly 15th-century Iglesia de San Mateo at the
Activities
C D I Z P R O V I N C E Ta r i f a 735
WHALE-WATCHING
Most of the action occurs along the coast between Tarifa and Punta Paloma, 10km northwest. El Porro on Ensenada de Valdevaqueros,
the bay formed by Punta Paloma, is one of
the most popular spots, with easy parking
and plenty of space to set up. Kitesurfing is
incredibly popular here but kites give way to
sails when the wind really gets up.
Buy new or secondhand gear in Tarifa at the
shops on Calle Batalla del Salado. For rental
or classes try places up the coast such as Club
Mistral (Hurricane Hotel; %956 68 90 90; Cortijo Valdevaqueros
%619 340913) or Spin Out (%956 23 63 52; El Porro
beach). At Spin Out board, sail and wetsuit rental
for windsurfing costs 35/73 per hour/day; a
six-hour beginners windsurfing or kitesurfing
course is 150, and a two-hour introduction
to kitesurfing 50. Its essential for kitesurfing
beginners to take classes: out-of-control kitesurfers are a danger to themselves and others.
HORSE RIDING
BIRD-WATCHING
When the levante is blowing or theres little wind, the Tarifa area, including the spectacular Mirador del Estrecho lookout point,
7km east on the N340, is a great spot for
watching bird migrations across the Strait of
Gibraltar. You can visit the Centro Ornitolgico
Cigea (%639 859350; cocn.tarifa.com; N340 Km78.5;
h5-7pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun), a bird-watching
station 4km out of Tarifa, staffed by volunteers
who collect data and produce information
leaflets.
Sleeping
Its essential to phone ahead in August. Most
places cut prices by 25% to 40% for much of
the rest of the year.
IN TOWN
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
29
ez
ja
Al
28
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22
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11
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16
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a
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da
An
ni
Ave
le
Cal
Playa
de los
Lances
To Playa Chica (150m);
Isla de las
Palomas (450m)
s
Jo
C2
D3
D3
C3
SLEEPING
Hostal Africa.............................. 16
La Casa Amarilla........................ 17
Posada La Sacrista..................... 18
Posada Vagamundos.................. 19
sti
Ca
13
C Mara
Antonia Toledo
2
30
de
ida
en
Av
21
n
Sa
D1
C2
D3
D3
D3
C3
n
il
Ba
27
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Sa
n ci a
lle
Ca
lle
Ca
INFORMATION
Centro de Salud........................... 1
Lavandera Acuario...................... 2
Pandora's Papelera...................... 3
Polica Local................................. 4
Post Office................................... 5
Tourist Office............................... 6
lle
Ca
uma
Calle N
ura
Ma
III
nX
Jua
lle
Ca
lad
Sa
el
ad
all
at
ba
m
tu
O
B
lle
Ca
o
To Comes Bus Station (500m);
lla
N340 (1.2km); Souk (800m);
Ca
e
Beach Hotels & Camp Sites
all
(2-10km); Hotel Dos Mares C
(4.5km); Hotel Arte Vida
(5km); Hurricane Hotel (6km):
Centro Ornitolgico Cigea
(6.5km); Hotel Punta Sur (7km);
Spin Out (8km); Punta Paloma
(9km); Cdiz (147km)
Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com
736 C D I Z P R O V I N C E Ta r i f a
Eating
.com; d from 141, bungalow for 2 from 135, all incl breakfast;
pais) On the beach, about 4.5km from
Drinking
Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com
C D I Z P R O V I N C E A l g e c i r a s 737
SHOPPING TARIFA
Tarifas a great place to shop, or window shop if you cant afford the prices. Stroll along Calle
Batalla del Salado to find countless surf shops and boutiques offering contemporary fashions
in casual wear, jewellery, shoes and accessories. Surf brands such as Tarifa Pirates, Rick Shapes,
No Work Team, El Nio and Sons of the Desert are well-known names in Spain and most were
founded in Tarifa. Rip Curl, Billabong and other international surfwear companies are represented
here, too. The Soul Caf Store (Plaza San Martn) has fashions fresh from Italy, Bali and India. Therell
be more of this ilk to follow as the town becomes richer.
A few stores sell groovy homewares and even furniture. Tarfa (Calle Batalla del Salado 9) is excellent for gifts or that something special for yourself or your home. Some new warehouses on the
N340 stock anything from thatch-roofed Balinese platform shelters (6000) to glittering cushion
covers and chair-shaped hammocks.
ALGECIRAS
pop 102,000
Information
If youre going to arrive in Morocco at night,
take some dirham with you. Exchange rates
for buying dirham in Algeciras are best at
banks. There are banks and ATMs on Avenida
Virgen del Carmen and around Plaza Alta,
plus a couple of ATMs inside the port.
Hospital Punta de Europa (%956 02 50 50; Carretera de Getares s/n) 3km west of the centre.
Sleeping
Hostal Marrakech (%956 57 34 74; Calle Juan de la
Cierva 5; s/d 20/30) This is a clean, secure and
thoughtfully decorated place run by a helpful
Moroccan family.
Hotel Marina Victoria (%956 63 28 65; Avenida de la
Marina 7; s/d 32/50; a) A solid choice with good
rooms in a high-rise with excellent views
over the port.
Hotel Al-Mar (%956 65 46 61; Avenida de la Marina
2-3; s/d 51/100; pa) Two oversized Moroccan
lamps decorate the foyer of this comfortable
midrange place, which is handy for the port.
Theres a good restaurant. See p738.
Hotel Reina Cristina (%956 60 26 22; director
.reinacristina@hotetur.com; Paseo de la Conferencia s/n;
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
738 C D I Z P R O V I N C E A l g e c i r a s
lonelyplanet.com
0
0
ALGECIRAS
P
a ya b lo
o
C M Cobos
C ay
M
Plaza
Alta
n
Mor
a
tu r
Ven
C
5
1
Ca s
t e la
Plaza
Palma
no
de
l t
or
ardo
C San Bern
SLEEPING
Hostal Marrakech......................... 6 C2
Hotel Al-Mar................................ 7 C2
Hotel Marina Victoria................... 8 C2
EATING
Pastelera-Caf La Dificultosa....... 9 B2
Restaurante Hotel Al-Mar..........(see 7)
Restaurante Montes................... 10 B2
Eating
Pastelera-Cafe La Dificultosa (Calle Jos Santacana; coffee,
toast & juice 4) A good spot for breakfast or a coffee break, which is located near the market.
Restaurante Montes (%956 65 42 07; Calle Juan
Morrison 27; men 8, mains 8-18) The Montes has a
hugely popular lunch men of three courses,
bread and wine, and a long list of tempting
la carte seafood.
Restaurante Hotel Al-Mar (%956 65 46 61; Avenida de
la Marina 2-3; breakfast/lunch buffet 6/11, mains 14-22) Topfloor, slightly refined hotel restaurant with big
glass windows and sweeping views of the port,
offering daily specials and regional dishes.
TRANSPORT
Bus Station................................. 11 B3
Estacin Martima (Port)............ 12 D2
LA LNEA DE LA CONCEPCIN
pop 64,000
La Lnea, 20km east of Algeciras, is the unavoidable stepping stone to Gibraltar. A left turn as
you exit the bus station brings you onto Avenida 20 de Abril, which runs the 300m or so
from the main square, Plaza de la Constitucin,
to the Gibraltar border. The Municipal tourist
office (%956 17 19 98; Avenida Prncipe Felipe s/n; h8am8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) faces the border.
Buses run about every 30 minutes to/from
Algeciras (1.80, 30 minutes). Others go to
Mlaga (10.50, 2 hours, three to five daily),
Tarifa (3.50, 45 minutes, six daily), Cdiz
(12, 2 hours, four daily) and elsewhere.
To save queuing at the border, many visitors to Gibraltar park in La Lnea, then walk
across. The underground Parking Fo Cona, just
off Avenida 20 de Abril, charges 1.90 per
hour or 14 per day.
GIBRALTAR
Looming like some great ship off southern
Spain, the British colony of Gibraltar is a
fascinating compound of curiosities. Despite
bobbies on the beat, red post boxes and other
reminders of 1960s England, Gibraltar is actually a cultural cocktail with Genoese, Spanish,
North African and other elements which have
made it fantastically prosperous. Naturally,
the main sight is the awesome Rock; a vast
limestone ridge that rises to 426m, with sheer
cliffs on its northern and eastern sides. For
the ancient Greeks and Romans this was one
of the two Pillars of Hercules, split from the
G I B R A LTA R H i s t o r y 739
History
In 711 Tariq ibn Ziyad, the Muslim governor
of Tangier, landed at Gibraltar to launch the
Islamic invasion of the Iberian Peninsula. The
name Gibraltar is derived from Jebel Tariq
(Tariqs Mountain).
Castilla wrested the Rock from the Muslims in 1462. Then in 1704 an Anglo-Dutch
fleet captured Gibraltar during the War of the
Spanish Succession. Spain ceded the Rock to
Britain in 1713, but didnt abandon military
attempts to regain it until the failure of the
Great Siege of 177983. Britain developed it
into an important naval base (bringing in a
community of Genoese ship repairers). During
the Franco period, Gibraltar was an extremely
sore point between Britain and Spain: the border was closed from 1967 to 1985. In 1969,
Gibraltarians voted, by 12,138 to 44, in favour
of British rather than Spanish sovereignty and
a new constitution gave Gibraltar domestic
self-government. In 2002 the UK and Spain
held talks about a possible future sharing of
sovereignty over Gibraltar, but Gibraltarians
expressed their feelings in a referendum (not
recognised by Britain or Spain), which voted
resoundingly against any such idea.
In December 2005, the governments of the
UK, Spain and Gibraltar set up a new, trilateral
process of dialogue. The three parties have
reached agreement on some issues but tricky
topics remain, not the least Britains military
installations and ownership of Gibraltar airport. Gibraltarians want self-determination
and to retain British citizenship, making joint
sovereignty improbable. Few foresee a change
in the status quo but at least relations are less
strained. On 18 September 2006, a three-way
deal was signed by Spain, Gibraltar and Britain
relating to telecommunications on the Rock,
Gibraltar airport and other issues, but not
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
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11
INFORMATION
Post Office....................................1 B1
Tourist Office............................... 2 C2
12
o de cia
Paseonferen
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Train
Station
a
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Ca
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(Fishing Harbour)
en
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C nt o n i o
A Prim
C
10
200 m
0.1 miles
To A7 (1.5km);
La Lnea de la
Concepcin (20km);
Malaga (132km)
arm
Av Virgen del C
To Policia
Nacional
(160m)
ez
Plaza de
Andaluca
artn
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In
lonelyplanet.com
740 G I B R A LTA R O r i e n t a t i o n
lonelyplanet.com
GIBRALTAR
0
0
100 m
0.1 miles
Do
rri
en
20
36
t
ke
ar
M
Wa
ens
Que
ith
Rd
ve
Co
To Airport (400m);
rral
Rd Caleta Hotel (450m);
Border (900m); Tourist
Information Booth (900m)
La Linea de la
Grand
Concepcin (1km)
Casemates
Square
Sm
rt
po
er
at r f
W ha
W
To Ocean
Village &
Marina
Bay (100m)
32
et Rd
Pl
12
7
rk
F i s h Ma
18
Landport
Tunnel
33
7
e
Castle Rd
Corn
Wil
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Rd
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Recl
ama
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Bell L
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Corn
17
26
Tuckeys
La
18
28
38
23
6
9
2
21
34 Market La
25
5
11
John
Mackintosh
Square
Main St
lrish Town
Rd
Parliament La
ineer La
Eng
Line Wall Rd
27
13
19
La
30
La
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Labrary
St
Cathedral
3
Square
Cathedral of
the Holy Trinity
5
2
38
6
Governor's
Parade
F l a t B as t i o n R d
Range
Town
ay
e ns w
Wall Rd
Southport
Gate
10
15
21
E l l i otts Way
Rd
Rosia Rd
Rd
pa
Euro
a n ds
Red S
22
Baha de
Algeciras
B2
A4
A2
A2
TRANSPORT
Bus No 3...............................................................19
Bus No 9.............................................................. 20
Bus No 10.............................................................21
Lower Cable-Car Station.......................................22
Turner & Co......................................................... 23
A4
A1
A3
B6
A2
EMERGENCY
8
13
To Upper Rock Nature
Reserve (200m);
St Michaels Cave (400m)
Apes Den (1.75km);
22
Orientation
Information
BOOKSHOPS
ANDALUCA
4
Convent
Pl
Main St
Line
Q ue
ANDALUCA
's
Governor
La
EATING
Caf Solo..............................................................15
Cannon Bar.......................................................... 16
House of Sacarello................................................17
Clipper................................................................. 18
Prince Edward's Rd
10
11
A4
A3
A3
A4
16
24
Governor's St
16
19
35
SLEEPING
Bristol Hotel.......................................................... 11
Cannon Hotel....................................................... 12
Herald Travel Lettings...........................................13
O'Callaghan Eliott Hotel....................................... 14
29
20
14
14
9
17
12
Ca
King's St
Cathedral of
St Mary the
Crowned
ELECTRICITY
A3
A4
A4
A4
A3
A3
A1
1523
31
rag
ope
Co La
To Europort
& St Bernard's
Hospital (300m)
INFORMATION
Bell Books...............................................................1
Gibraltar Bookshop................................................. 2
Gibraltar Tourist Board........................................... 3
PC Clinic & Computer Centre................................. 4
Police Station..........................................................5
Post Office.............................................................6
Tourist Office.........................................................7
lonelyplanet.com
742 G I B R A LTA R S l e e p i n g
Sleeping
Eating
Caf Solo (%44449; Grand Casemates Sq 3; pastas 6-9)
With tables inside, and out on the bustling
square, this is a good place to stop for coffees
and a variety of interesting pasta.
Cannon Bar (%77288; 27 Cannon Lane; mains 5.509.50) Justly famous for some of the best fish and
chips in town, and in big portions.
Clipper (%79791; 78B Irish Town; mains 3.50-6; v)
Most of Gibraltars pubs serve British pub
meals. The Clipper is one of the best and busiest, all varnished wood with full-on footy and
a cracking Sunday roast. Vegetarians should
go for the Greek salad wrap.
House of Sacarello (%70625; 57 Irish Town; daily
specials 7-11.50; hclosed Sun; v) A chic place
in a converted coffee warehouse with a good
range of vegetarian options. You can linger
over afternoon tea (3.50) between 3pm and
7.30pm.
Nunos (%76501; Caleta Hotel, Sir Herbert Miles Rd;
mains 11-15) A top-class, formal Italian restaurant in the Caleta Hotel, with fabulous terrace
views. Delicious homemade pastas and risottos, or tender leg of lamb, are accompanied by
an extensive wine list.
Pleasant waterside eateries line Marina Bay.
Shopping
Gibraltar has lots of British high-street stores,
such as Next, Marks & Spencer, Body Shop (all
on Main St) and Morrisons (in Europort at the
northern end of the main harbour). Shops are
normally open 9am to 7.30pm weekdays, and
until 1pm Saturday.
FRS (%956 68 18 30 in Tarifa, Spain; www.frs.es) operates one ferry a week between Gibraltar and
Tangier, departing Gibraltar at 6pm Friday for
the 70-minute crossing. One-way/return fares
are: adult 23/41, child 11.50/20, car 46/92.
M L A G A P R O V I N C E M l a g a 743
lonelyplanet.com
MLAGA
pop 556,000
Vehicle queues at the 24-hour border and congested traffic in Gibraltar often make it easier
to park in La Lnea and walk across the border.
To take a car into Gibraltar (free) you need an
insurance certificate, registration document,
nationality plate and driving licence.
Getting Around
The 1.5km walk from the border to the town
centre crosses the airport runway. A left turn
off Corral Rd takes you through the pedestrian Landport Tunnel into Grand Casemates
Sq. Alternatively, several local bus lines (adult/
child/senior 60p/40p/30p) run from the border into town about every 15 minutes (every
30 minutes on Saturday and Sunday), until
9pm. Bus 9 goes to Market Pl, number 3 goes
to Cathedral Sq and the lower cable-car station, and number 10 runs to Europort (stopping at Morrisons), then Reclamation Rd near
the city centre.
All of Gibraltar can be covered on foot,
and much of it (including the upper Rock)
by car or motorcycle. You can also ascend,
weather permitting, by the cable car (Red Sands
Rd; adult one-way/return 6.50/8, child 4/4.50; hevery
few min 9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat; last cable down 4.45pm).
MLAGA PROVINCE
Though best known for the densely packed
holiday coast of the Costa del Sol, Mlaga
province has heaps more to offer. It has a
vibrant, increasingly cultured capital city, recently enhanced by a new up-to-the-minute
Picasso museum. Inland, the fascinating old
towns of Ronda and Antequera ooze history
and youll find wild hill country dotted with
picturesque white villages. Mlaga has a gorgeous coastline in the east where cliffs drop
to pretty coves and bays. Ever more prosperous thanks to unstoppable construction, the
History
Probably founded by Phoenicians, Mlaga has
long had a commercial vocation. It flourished
in the Islamic era, especially as the chief port
of the Emirate of Granada, later reasserting
itself as an entrepreneurial centre in the 19th
century when a dynamic middle class founded
textile factories, sugar and steel mills and shipyards. Mlaga dessert wine (mountain sack)
was popular in Victorian England. During the
civil war Mlaga was initially a Republican
stronghold. Hundreds of Nationalist sympathisers were killed before the city fell in
February 1937, after being bombed by Italian
planes. Vicious reprisals followed.
Mlaga has enjoyed a steadily increasing
economic spin-off from the mass tourism
launched on the nearby Costa del Sol in the
1950s.
Orientation
The tree-lined Paseo del Parque and Alameda
Principal run along the southern edge of the
old town. The main streets leading north into
the old town are Calle Marqus de Larios and
Calle Molina Lario. The Gibralfaro hill rising
above the eastern half of Paseo del Parque
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
C2
TRANSPORT
Bus Station................................. 16 A4
Estacin Martima...................... 17 D3
Malaga Tour Bus........................ 18 C3
ENTERTAINMENT
Tetera El Harn.......................... 15 C1
D2
E1
C3
oM
se
Pa
EATING
Antigua Casa de Guardia........... 13 C3
Restaurante Antonio Martn.......14 E3
C3
C3
C1
B3
A3
INFORMATION
Librera Luces............................... 1
Municipal Tourist Office............... 2
Polica Local.................................. 3
Post Office................................... 4
Universidad de Mlaga................ 5
o
ass
Pic
To Playa de
Pedregalejo (3km);
Playa del Palo (4km);
Nerja (56km)
t
ar
im
Cementerio
cha
Ingls
de San
Paseo
a Pres
Avenid
La Malagueta
Gbi r a lfar
o
m ino
Jardine
de Puerta
Oscura
SLEEPING
El Riad Andaluz.......................... 10 D1
Hostal El Cenachero................... 11 C3
Parador Mlaga Gibralfaro..........12 E1
la
12
MEDITERRANEAN
SEA
la
Far
o
0
0
Plaza
lo General Paseo de Redi
ng
Sote
ln
Torrijos
Guil
C Ayuntamiento
Plaza
s
de Toros
ante Parque
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ida
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o
C u
as
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Cur
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de
los
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C VelezRuiz Alonso P
Mlaga
Plaza de la
Marina
14
2
To Melilla
(180km)
Puerto
Antepurerto
17
r
Ma
del
1
erta 13
l
C Pu
cipa
Prin
eda
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Ala
d
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(MlagaRenfe)
16
de
a
ad n
lan aci
Exp Est
la
To Cortijo de Torres
(Fair Site; 1.9km)
lle
Ca
Ca
l le
Train Station
(Mlaga-Centro)
va
sla
CE
s
Tilo
Paseo de los
Plaza
Martnes
11
18
Plaza
de la Calle
Constitucin Mar Santa
a
Plaza
s
ero
de las
Plaza
isn
C
Flores
del
C
Obispo
Plaza
de
Plaza Uncibay
Mitjana
a
r
rete
C ar
e
C a ll
C Puerta
Nueva
so
arro
C B
Plaza
de la
Old
Town
Avenida de
Andaluca
Pe o n
rch es
el de
l
ta
C Armengula
de la Mo
ria
C Sevilla
Avenida de Barcelona
layo
C A de Palencia
5
Hi
ler
a
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ar
te
le
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ida
Ca
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Calle Maldonado
ania
Ca
lle
15
S a nt o D
o m in g o
Pasillo de
Santa Isabel
To Hospital Carlos
Haya (800m)
Alem
To Airport (9km);
Torremolinos (14km)
Ca
Merced
CTom
z ar s
Plaza
de la
Aduana
C all e
Bail
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Information
Rio Guadalmedina
eda
Alam
oln
dominates the central area. Avenida de Andaluca continues the Paseo del ParqueAlameda
Principal axis west of Ro Guadalmedina. The
main train and bus stations are around 600m
south of Avenida de Andaluca, and the airport is 9km southwest.
Sights
a
tima
Calle F
Calle
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Pa
lle
de
Avendia de la Rosaleda
To Jardin Botnico
La Concepcin (3.5km);
Antequera (50km)
iud
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im
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eli
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ay
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lonelyplanet.com
M L A G A P R O V I N C E M l a g a 745
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
ta
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ag
s
va
no
C t il l o
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lonelyplanet.com
400 m
0.2 miles
744 M L A G A P R O V I N C E M l a g a
746 M L A G A P R O V I N C E C e n t r a l M l a g a
lonelyplanet.com
0
0
CENTRAL MLAGA
SLEEPING
AC Mlaga Palacio..................... 11
Hostal Derby.............................. 12
Hostal Larios.............................. 13
Hostal Victoria............................ 14
Hotel Carlos V............................ 15
Hotel Don Curro......................... 16
B5
B6
A6
B6
C5
B5
elo
Fra
n
qu
Ni
To
m
ode
de
C
zar
18
24
27
n
Ag
ust
n
Sa
10
y
ur
bo
Calle C
ster
20
22
Plaza
del
Obispo
Calle Strachan
37
14
Calle San
Juan de Dios
Prin
eda
Alam
o
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ill
Gu
l
de
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Av d
34
e
ell
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l Pa
o de
Jardines
Alcalde Pedro
Ruiz Alonso
35
a
Cerv
36
MLAGA
Puerto
Antepurerto
Tours
To pick up the child-friendly, open-topped
MalagaTour bus (Map p744; %902 10 10 81; www
l
cipa
Courses
m
Te
Do
Pase
Plaza
de la
Marina
12
Co
ina
rit
15
11
ha de Lara
17 Calle Sanc
13
Calle Can
as
S alin
lle
Ca
n
ua
21
C
del PRozo
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M L A G A P R O V I N C E M l a g a 747
Sleeping
BUDGET
ANDALUCA
Cal
25
le S
ana
ta
de Ch
Ma
initas
r a
Palacio
3
Episcopal
26
Ca
lle
Cal
le
PasSnch
tor ez
C D Belgrano
19
Calle
l le
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la
Calle C
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Ca
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Cal
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Vl esn
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Di
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33
Plaza
de la
Merced
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Calle
Neuva
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G
de
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ANDALUCA
lle
Ca
31
at
5
28
re
l
am
Molina Lario
Pasaje
ad
M
Plaza
de las
Flores
Be
Plaza
Mitjana
Co
Plaza
de la
Constitucin
Ca
lle
zN
an
ale
nv
lle
Ca
23
de
zc
La
n
cie
centre for exhibitions and research on contemporary art, with a few compelling personal
memorabilia.
Centro de Arte Contemporneo (Map p744; %952
D5
B5
Plaza de
Uncibay
s
te 29
Pr
ez
Plaza
Martnes
D5
C6
mo
M
lle
Ca
ra
ue
sq
dr
Old
Town
Ra
lle
Ca
No
C
30
OTHER MUSEUMS
ari
32
ll e
Ca
l le
Ca
le
An
A3
B3
C2
B3
TRANSPORT
Bus No 11 for El Palo................. 34
Bus No 19 to Airport.................. 35
Bus No 35 for Castillo de
Gibralfaro.............................. 36
Taxi............................................ 37
DRINKING
Bodegas El Pimpi........................ 27 C4
Calle de Bruselas........................ 28 C2
O'Neill's..................................... 29 B3
EATING
Caf Moka................................. 17 B5
Clandestino................................ 18 C3
Comoloco.................................. 19 B4
Ca
l
ENTERTAINMENT
Ascar....................................... 30
Liceo.......................................... 31
Teatro Cervantes....................... 32
Warhol....................................... 33
Vic
tor
ia
C2
B5
C4
C5
B4
D4
C4
D3
B5
B2
B4
B4
C3
lle
El Jardn..................................... 20
El Vegetariano de la Alcazabilla.. 21
Gorki.......................................... 22
La Casa del ngel....................... 23
La Posada Antonio..................... 24
La Rebana.................................. 25
Lechuga..................................... 26
Ca
D3
D5
B4
C3
200 m
0.1 miles
C a ll
e G
ran
ad a
INFORMATION
Meeting Point.............................. 1
Municipal Tourist Office.............. 2
Regional Tourist Office................. 3
Tourist Information Booth............ 4
Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com
748 M L A G A P R O V I N C E M l a g a
MIDRANGE
RESTAURANTS
TOP END
mains 12.50; h9am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2pm & 5pmmidnight Fri & Sat, 5pm-midnight Sun) Busy Viennese-
Eating
TAPAS
lonelyplanet.com
Entertainment
style caf next to the palm-filled gardens behind the cathedral. Great ambience but not
outstanding food.
Clandestino (Map p746; %952 21 93 90; Calle Nio de
Guevara 3; mains 9-17;h1pm-1am) A trendy joint
serving up top-notch meals that fuse northern
European and Latin cuisines, and hip, house
beats played in the background set the mood.
Restaurante Antonio Martn (Map p744; %952 22
Drinking
On weekend nights, the web of narrow old
streets north of Plaza de la Constitucin comes
alive. Look for bars around Plaza de la Merced,
Plaza Mitjana and Plaza de Uncibay.
Bodegas El Pimpi (Map p746; %952 22 89 90; Calle
Granada 62; h7pm-2am) A Mlaga institution with
a warren of rooms and mini-patios, El Pimpi
attracts a fun-loving crowd with its sweet wine
and thumping music.
Calle de Bruselas (Map p746; %952 60 39 48; Plaza
de la Merced 16; h9am-2am) This is a retro Belgian
AIR
M L A G A P R O V I N C E C o s t a d e l S o l 749
Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
750 M L A G A P R O V I N C E C o s t a d e l S o l
Torremolinos
Torrie, which led the Costa del Sols masstourism boom of the 1950s and 60s, is a concrete high-rise jungle designed to squeeze as
many paying customers as possible into the
smallest possible space. It spruced itself up
somewhat in the 1990s and a pleasant seafront walk, the Paseo Martimo, now extends
for nearly 7km and gives some cohesion and
character to the resort. Torremolinos has a
big gay scene.
ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com
ENTERTAINMENT
Mijas
Fuengirola
pop 101,000
pop 52,000
Fuengirola, 18km down the coast from Torremolinos, has more of a family scene but is
just as densely packed. The streets between
the beach and Avenida Matas Senz de Tejada
(where the bus station is) constitute whats left
of the old town, with Plaza de la Constitucin
at its centre. The train station (Avenida Jess Santos
Rein) is a block further inland. The tourist office
(%952 46 74 57; Avenida Jess Santos Rein 6; h9.30am2pm & 5-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) is near the train
station.
The Hipdromo Costa del Sol (%952 59 27 00; www
Fonda has large rooms built around Islamicstyle patios with fountains, and an excellent,
moderately priced restaurant.
Besides British breakfasts and beer, Torremolinos has no shortage of good seafood places, many of them lining the Paseo
Martimo in La Carihuela.
M L A G A P R O V I N C E C o s t a d e l S o l 751
Marbella
Overlooked by the dramatic Sierra Blanca
28km west of Fuengirola, Marbella has been
the Costa del Sols glossiest resort ever since
part-Mexican, part-Austrian Alfonso von
Hohenlohe built the exclusive Marbella Club
Hotel, just west, in the 1950s. A unique mix
of glamorous boutiques, pretty plazas, downto-earth bars, good and bad restaurants,
moderate beaches and ritzy nightlife make
it easily the Costa del Sols most fascinating
playground. Fortunately the scandals and
crime that accompany this locale (see the
boxed text, p752) wont interfere with the fun
of ordinary travellers.
ORIENTATION
The N340 through town takes the names Avenida Ramn y Cajal and Avenida Ricardo
Soriano. The old town is centred on Plaza de
los Naranjos.
INFORMATION
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
pop 45,000
e
ida d
Avenapiche
Tr
ida
Do c
tor Vi
als
go
Calle Posti
Ave
n
12
C
de Ro
la drg
Fu ue
en z
te
te
uer
El F
Av
Hotel
El Fuerte
C de
Sol
9
6
C La Luna
C Huerta Ch
ica
a de
l Ma
r
Aven
id
17
C de Mlaga
m os
Plaza de la
Trav Alameda
CM
acki
ntos
h
To AP7 toll
highway (1km);
Refugio de
Juanar (17km)
C San Ramn
C San Cristbal
Paseo Martimo
l
de
lle a
Ca Alb
Beln
C la
d
i nid a
C Tr C Viento
3
Avenida de
Nabeul
Antonio
13
Plaza de
la Iglesia
Plaza San
Bernab
a
Avenid
14
l
de n
lle er
Ca oqu
B
Aven
ida de Espaa
1
Glorieta de la
Fontanilla
C Francisco Norte
21
e s
dr to
Pa an
C ue C
riq
En
Turmo
Parque
de la
Constitucin
Ave
nida
Ram
n
yC
aja
l
Plaza de
Ios Naranjos
te
Bazn
15
de
Pe
Ar
Calle Alonso de
16
s
ll ero
C Los Cab2a
e
all
las
lle
22
C Pantalen
C Buitrago
To Dreamers (5km);
Puerto Bans (6km);
Estepona via N340
(20km)
Plaza de
la Victoria
7
al
Per
Ca
uela
Esc
esn
ela
n
orr
C Ch ortada
C P
Haza del M
23
Plaza Santo
Cristo
Princesa
Prncipe
10
Calle
Mesoncillo
Benavente
de Ja
ci n t o
18
Calle
Old
Town
Calle Lobatos
C2
D4
D3
Parque
Arroyo de
la Represa
Francisco
Calle San
C Bermeja
C Aduar
ado
a de Merc
nid
Ave
D3
C2
D3
D3
s
C Ramiro Campo
oa
Och
vero
e Se
To Hospital
Av d
Costa del Sol (6km);
Fuengirola via A7
(25km)
11
20
19
Puerto
Deportivo
Mediterranean
Sea
TRANSPORT
Bus No 2 for Bus Station........ 21 C3
Buses for Fuengirola............... 22 A3
Buses for Puerto Bans, San
Pedro de Alcntara, Es....... 23 A2
Caf Bar El Estrecho (%952 77 00 04; Calle San Lzaro; tapas 1.20) This is a good, busy old-town
tapas bar.
Bar Bartolo (%952 82 69 50; Calle San Lzaro; tapas
1.80) Located nearby, this tapas bar is also varied in its tapas offering and, like El Estrecho,
it has strong, viscous coffee.
El Balcn de la Virgen (%952 77 60 52; Calle Virgen de
los Dolores; mains 8-16; hclosed Sun) One of the best
restaurants near Plaza de los Naranjos, this
has a lovely summer terraza overlooked by a
300-year-old grieving Virgin and a large bougainvillea. The fare is typical Andalucian.
Restaurante Santiago (%952 77 00 78; Paseo
Martimo 5; mains 18-25; hclosed Nov) Santiago is
right on the seafront, offering top-class seafood in elegant surrounds.
ANDALUCA
Marbella is a byword for glitzy ostentation and overdevelopment, municipal corruption and
international mafia activity. With Spains all-powerful construction lobby keen to open up new
land for building, the temptation for municipal corruption is always high, especially since Spanish
town halls receive much of their income from fees charged for building permits. Its a perfect
scenario for heavier crime to get involved. Only in the last few years have Andalucas political
and judicial authorities started to tackle the problem with any commitment.
Marbellas problems on this score really got going in the 1990s during the mayoralty of Jess
Gil y Gil, a populist, right-wing construction magnate who perfected the art of running a town
for the benefit of himself and his henchmen. He died in 2004, having overseen rampant property
development and embroiled himself and Marbella in endless corruption and financial scandals.
Many were ready to step into his shoes.
In 2005, in the so-called Ballena Blanca (White Whale) case, 41 people were arrested in Marbella on suspicion of organising Europes biggest money-laundering network, worth at least
250 million. In another operation in 2005, police arrested 28 alleged Mafia bosses from former
Soviet republics on the Costa del Sol and in other Mediterranean Spanish towns. The mobsters
supposedly laundered the proceeds of nefarious activities back home through a network of
property, restaurants and bars in Spain.
Then in 2006 Marbellas mayor, deputy mayor and several other councillors and town hall
officials were among over 50 people arrested in connection with a web of bribery and illegal
building permits. During their investigations police seized property worth 2.4 billion including
275 works of art, 103 thoroughbred horses and 200 fighting bulls. A caretaking committee appointed to run Marbellas affairs immediately started sealing off suspected illegal building sites
that had been ordered to stop work by Andalucas Supreme Court. Up to 5000 Marbella homes
could face demolition for having been built illegally.
ENTERTAINMENT
Colonial Caf......................... 19 B4
Locos..................................... 20 B4
is Oliver
otario Lu
Calle N
Albergue
Juvenil
Marbella
C3
C3
C2
C3
C4
C2
na
SLEEPING
Hostal Berlin............................ 6
Hostal del Pilar......................... 7
Hostal La Luna......................... 8
Hotel Central........................... 9
Hotel La Morada Mas
Hermosa............................ 10
Princesa Playa Hotel.............. 11
Town House.......................... 12
EATING
Bar Botolo.............................. 13
Caf Bar El Estrecho............... 14
El Balcn de la Virgen............ 15
La Comedia........................... 16
Restaurante Santiago............. 17
Restaurante Skina.................. 18
a
MARBELLA VICE
ANDALUCA
INFORMATION
Municipal Tourist Office.......... 1 A4
Tourist Office.......................... 2 C2
Calle Anc
ha
200 m
0.1 miles
To Bus Station
(600m)
tu
0
0
MARBELLA
len
Va
M L A G A P R O V I N C E C o s t a d e l S o l 753
el C
ano
SLEEPING
Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com
a M
igu
Aven
id
752 M L A G A P R O V I N C E C o s t a d e l S o l
754 M L A G A P R O V I N C E E l C h o r r o & B o b a s t r o
AUTHORS CHOICE
La Comedia (%952 77 64 78; Calle San Lzaro;
mains 15-25; h7pm-1am Tue-Sun) This creative downtown, upstairs restaurant is run by
a dedicated Swedish duo who put together
some terrific taste combinations. The mussels in white wine sauce are delicious and
are hopefully a regular menu item. Follow
them with duck breast in fruit compote,
sweet chicken curry or a vegetarian couscous crepe. The place is candlelit yet animated, with interesting art on the walls, and
there are balcony tables overlooking little
Plaza Victoria.
lonelyplanet.com
Estepona
pop 43,000
Estepona, southwest of Marbella, has controlled its development relatively carefully and
remains a fairly agreeable seaside town. The
big attraction here is the popular safari park,
Selwo Aventura (%902 19 04 82; www.selwo.es; Carretera
A7 Km162.5; admission 22, under 8yr 15; h10am-6pm
Sep-Jun, to 8pm Jul-Aug, closed early Dec-early Feb), 6km
east of town, with over 200 exotic animal species. A direct bus runs to Selwo from Mlaga
via Torremolinos, Fuengirola and Marbella
(phone Selwo for information).
RONDA
pop 35,000 / elevation 744m
M L A G A P R O V I N C E R o n d a 755
Orientation
The old Muslim town, called La Ciudad,
stands on the southern side of El Tajo. The
newer town to the north has most of the accommodation and restaurants, and the bus
and train stations. Three bridges span the
gorge, the main one being the Puente Nuevo.
Both parts of town end abruptly on their western side in cliffs plunging away to the valley
of Ro Guadalevn.
Information
Banks and ATMs are mainly on Calle Virgen
de la Paz and Plaza Carmen Abela.
Municipal tourist office (%952 18 71 19; www
.turismoderonda.es; Paseo de Blas Infante; h10am7.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.15am-2pm & 3.30-6.30pm Sat, Sun
& holidays) Helpful and friendly staff with a wealth of
information on the town and region.
Regional tourist office (%952 87 12 72; www
.andalucia.org; Plaza de Espaa 1; h9am-7.30pm MonFri, 10am-2pm Sat)
Sights
PLAZA DE ESPAA & PUENTE NUEVO
The old Muslim town retains a typical medieval Islamic character of twisting narrow
streets.
The first street to the left, after you cross
the Puente Nuevo, leads down to the Casa
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com
756 M L A G A P R O V I N C E R o n d a
lonelyplanet.com
RONDA
0
0
Av
en
ida
n
yC
CC
o
C Calvsio
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apit
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Co
Ma
dre
ra
Pet
rg
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io
Te
n
e
Iglesia de
Nuestro
Padre Jess
Call
Do 4
min
go
Puente
Viejo
Salv
atie
rra
de
8
3
igue
l
o Sa
nM
Plaza
6
Duquesa
5
de Parcent
To Restaurante Almocbar (150m);
Bodega San Francisco (170m);
20
Parque Natural Sierra de las
Nieves (25km); San Pedro de
Alcntara (47km); Costa del Sol
(47km); Jimena de la Frontera
(62km); Algeciras (102km)
Puente
rabe
arq
Hoy
C Jos
Holg M
ado
Plaza
Mondragn
in
Calle de Arm
14
nto
10
l
Rea
yo
Arro
INFORMATION
Municipal Tourist Office.................1 A3
Regional Tourist Office...................2 A3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Baos rabes..................................3 B5
Casa del Rey Moro.........................4 B4
Iglesia de Santa Mara La Mayor....5 A5
La Mina.......................................(see 4)
Museo del Bandolero.....................6 B5
Palacio de Mondragn...................7 A5
Puerta de la Exijara.........................8 B4
SLEEPING
EnFrente Arte.................................9
Hotel Alavera de los Baos...........10
Hotel Montelirio...........................11
Hotel Morales...............................12
Hotel San Francisco......................13
Hotel San Gabriel.........................14
Parador de Ronda........................15
C4
B5
A4
B2
C3
A4
A3
EATING
Chocolat.......................................16 B2
Restaurante Albacara.................(see 11)
Restaurante del Escudero.............17 A3
Restaurante Pedro Romero...........18 A3
Restaurante Tragabuches.............19 A3
DRINKING
El Choque Ideal............................20 B5
Lechugita......................................21 B3
Taberna del Antonio.....................22 B3
TRANSPORT
Bus Station....................................23 B1
Minibuses to Plaza de Espaa.......24 D1
in 1785 and has seen some of the most important events in bullfighting history. It was
here, in the 18th and 19th centuries, that three
generations of the Romero family Francisco,
Juan and Pedro established the basics of
modern bullfighting on foot. The bullrings
museum is crammed with memorabilia such
as blood-spattered costumes worn by Pedro
Romero, and photos of famous fans including
Hemingway and Orson Welles.
Vertiginous cliff-top views open out from
Paseo de Blas Infante, behind the Plaza de Toros,
and the leafy Alameda del Tajo nearby.
Sleeping
Hotel Morales (%952 87 15 38; Calle de Sevilla 51; s/d
25/42; a) A friendly, small hotel, which has
18 pleasant rooms and thorough information
on the town and nearby parks.
Eating
Traditional Ronda food is hearty mountain fare
thats big on stews, trout, game such as rabbit,
partridge and quail, and, of course, oxtail.
Chocolat (Calle Seville 18; breakfast from 2.20) A sophisticated caf placed next door to Hotel San
Cayetano. Choose from a long list of teas, coffees, breakfasts and a boggling array of cakes
and pastries at this elegant caf.
Bar Restaurant Almocbar (%952 87 59 77; Calle
Ruedo Alameda 5; tapas 1.50, mains 10-14; h1.30-5pm
& 8pm-1am Wed-Mon) In the Barrio San Francisco,
ANDALUCA
lle
jo
Go
La Ciudad
Sa
Ca
Los
ed
ios
Ta
11
lle
Ca
il
aja
ja
Calle
El
Plaza de
los Descalzos
nt
ce
Vi
AUTHORS CHOICE
ten
Se
lle
jas
am
Naran
ANDALUCA
ontere
rR
arin
Re
Puente
Nuevo
Calle S
a
au
P
de
M L A G A P R O V I N C E R o n d a 757
950937; Calle San Miguel; admission 2; h10am-7pm MonFri, to 3pm Sat & Sun). From the northern side of
Iglesia de
los Descalzos
de la Paz
Ro
alev n
To El Burgo (26km);
Antequera (87km)
de M
fa
e
Borr
CL
e
a
je d
Iglesia de
16
rer
Pasarreos
Nuestra
ab
Co
13
l
aC
Seora
ine
ar
del Socorro el Esp
M
d
lle
18
dro
rera
Ca
C Pe ero
Car
Plaza
Rom
C Jos Plaza de
Plaza del
Carmen C
Aparicio Toros
Socorro
Abela San
Plaza
ta
El Mercadillo
Ce
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das
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a
la
C
17
1
2
a
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m
19
e
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a
C
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Paseo de
Call
Plaza de
22
Blas Infante
Espaa
21
Calle Villanueva
15
Guad
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Plaza del
Ahorro
Calle
ntes
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Calle
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24
Lauri
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Molin
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Call
Calle
Ca
la
Calle
Sevil
Caste
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CM
Alameda
del Tajo
Calle
a
Mar
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Call
ing
Flem
12
Iglesia de
la Merced
Jos
San
rid
Mad
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758 M L A G A P R O V I N C E A r o u n d R o n d a
Drinking
El Choque Ideal (%952 16 19 18; www.elchoqueideal
.com; Calle Espritu Santo 9; h9.30am-3am Feb-Oct, 1pm1am Nov-Jan) This funky caf has fantastic views.
AROUND RONDA
The beautiful green hills of the Serrana de
Ronda, dotted with white-coloured villages,
stretch in all directions from Ronda. This area
has many traditional houses converted into
gorgeous rural accommodation. For information try Rondas municipal tourist office, www
.serraniaronda.org and www.rusticblue.com.
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Sights
43; adult/student/child 6.50/3/2.50; hhourly tours 10am1pm & 4-6pm), 20km southwest of Ronda. Youll
Cueva de la Pileta
ANTEQUERA
TRAIN
Set on the edge of a plain 50km north of Mlaga, with rugged mountains to the south and
east, the sleepy provincial town of Antequera
is a mass of red-tiled roofs punctuated by 30
church towers. Here hides one of the richest
historical legacies in Andaluca. Antequeras
golden age was during the 15th and 16th
centuries.
Getting Around
Coso Viejo; tour 3; h10am-1.30pm & 4.30-6.30pm TueSat, 11am-1.30pm Sun) is Efebo, a beautiful 1.4m
M L A G A P R O V I N C E A r o u n d A n t e q u e r a 759
In a quiet area north of the bullring, the parador is set amid pleasant gardens with wonderful views.
Restaurante La Espuela (%952 70 30 31; Calle San
Agustn 1; mains 12-16; hclosed Mon) In a charming
cul-de-sac off Calle Infante Don Fernando,
La Espuela plays background jazz and offers
a fine selection of Antequeran specialities and
international fare.
AROUND ANTEQUERA
El Torcal
Sixteen kilometres south of Antequera, Nature has sculpted this 1336m mountain into
some of the weirdest, most wonderful rock
formations youll see anywhere. Its 12 sq
km of gnarled, pillared and deeply fissured
limestone began life as sea bed about 150
million years ago.
Two marked walking trails, the 1.5km Ruta
Verde (Green Route) and the 3km Ruta Amarilla (Yellow Route), start and end near the
information centre.
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
BUS
760 M L A G A P R O V I N C E E a s t o f M l a g a
EAST OF MLAGA
The coast east of Mlaga, sometimes called
the Costa del Sol Oriental, is less developed
than the coast to the west, but is striving hard
to fill the gaps.
Behind the coast, La Axarqua, a region dotted with white villages (of Islamic origin)
linked by snaking mountain roads, climbs
to the sierras along the border of Granada
province. Theres good walking here (best in
April and May, and from mid-September to
late October). Once impoverished and forgotten, La Axarqua has experienced a surge of
tourism and an influx of expat residents in
recent years.
Nerja
pop 14,000
Nightlife focuses on the aptly named TuttiFrutti Plaza, with an international clutch of
bars and clubs. Check out whats on at the
admirable Centro Cultural Villa de Nerja (%952
52 38 63; Calle Granada 45).
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Around Nerja
The big tourist attraction is the Cueva de Nerja
(%952 52 95 20; adult/child 7/3.50; h10am-2pm &
4-6.30pm, later in Jul & Aug), just off the N340, 3km
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A few kilometres down the valley from Cmpeta, rchez has a beautiful Almohad minaret
next to its church. From rchez a road winds
8km southwest to Arenas, where a steep but
drivable track climbs to the ruined Islamic
Castillo de Bentomiz, which crowns a hilltop.
Los Caballos del Mosqun (%608 658108; www.horse
riding-andalucia.com), just outside Canillas de
Albaida, 2km northwest of Cmpeta, offers
horse rides in the mountains from one hour
to several days. An exhilarating long walk is
up the dramatically peaked El Lucero (1779m),
from whose summit, on a clear day, you can
see both Granada and Morocco. This is a demanding full-day return walk from Cmpeta,
but its possible to drive as far up as Puerto
Blanquillo pass (1200m) via a slightly hairy
mountain track from Canillas de Albaida.
From Puerto Blanquillo a path climbs 200m
to another pass, the Puerto de Cmpeta. One
kilometre down from there, past a quarry, the
summit path (1 hours), marked by a signboard, diverges to the right across a stream
bed, marked by a signboard.
SLEEPING & EATING
The two best restaurants, both serving excellent and varied Spanish/international food,
are El Piln (%952 55 35 12; Calle Laberinto; mains 1015) and Cortijo Paco (%952 55 36 47; Avenida Canillas
6; mains 10-15). In summer ask for an upstairs
terrace table at either place.
C R D O B A P R O V I N C E C r d o b a 761
CRDOBA PROVINCE
Crdoba city was capital of Al-Andalus when
Al-Andalus was at its zenith, home to the glittering, cultured and tolerant courts of rulers
such as caliph Abd ar-Rahman III and, fittingly,
to one of the most magnificent of all Islamic
buildings, the citys mesmerising Mezquita
(Mosque). This romantic medieval architectural and cultural heritage is what draws visitors
to Crdoba today. Beyond the city stretches an
essentially rural province that produces some
of Andalucas best olive oil and wine, with
many smaller towns, broad rolling plains and
some attractive hill country.
CRDOBA
pop 302,000 / elevation 110m
History
The Roman colony of Corduba, founded in 152
BC, became capital of Baetica province, covering most of todays Andaluca. In 711 Crdoba
fell to the Muslim invaders and soon became
the Islamic capital on the Iberian Peninsula.
It was here in 756 that Abd ar-Rahman I set
himself up as emir of Al-Andalus.
Crdobas heyday came under Abd ar-Rahman III (91261), who in 929 named himself
caliph to set the seal on Al-Andalus independence of the Abbasid caliphs in Baghdad.
Crdoba was then the biggest city in Western
Europe and it had dazzling mosques, libraries,
observatories and aqueducts, a university and
highly skilled artisans in leather, metal, textiles
and glazed tiles. Abd ar-Rahman IIIs multicultural court was frequented by Jewish, Arab
and Christian scholars, even if Crdoba was
certainly not the fabulously tolerant paradise
thats sometimes imagined.
Towards the end of the 10th century, AlMansour (Almanzor), a fearsome general,
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CRDOBA
ba
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Sinagoga.................................. 19 B4
Torre de la Calahorra............... 20 D5
El Churrasco............................. 37 B4
Plaza
Taberna Salinas........................ 38 D3 Santa
Taberna San Miguel................. 39 C2 Teresa
SLEEPING
Casa de los Azulejos................ 21
Hostal El Reposo de Bagdad..... 22
Hostal Maestre........................ 23
Hostal Osio de Cdoba............ 24
Hostal Sneca.......................... 25
Hotel Albucasis........................ 26
Hotel Amistad Crdoba............ 27
Hotel Gonzlez......................... 28
Hotel Lola................................ 29
Hotel Maestre.......................... 30
Hotel Mezquita........................ 31
D3
B3
D3
C4
C4
C3
B4
B4
C4
D3
C4
DRINKING
Amapola.................................. 40
Bodega Guzmn....................... 41
Milenium................................. 42
Soul......................................... 43
EATING
Amaltea................................... 32
Bar Santos................................ 33
Bodega Campos....................... 34
Casa Pepe de la Judera........... 35
Comedor rabe-Andalus........ 36
C4
C4
D3
C4
C4
TRANSPORT
Bus No 3 to City Centre............ 47 A1
Bus No 3 to Train & Bus
Stations............................... 48 C4
Bus Station............................... 49 A1
D3
B4
D2
D2
ENTERTAINMENT
Gran Teatro de Crdoba.......... 44 B2
Jazz Caf................................. 45 D3
SHOPPING
Meryan.................................... 46 C4
Orientation
The fascinating part of Crdoba is the World
Heritage-listed medieval city, a labyrinth of
narrow streets focused on the Mezquita, which
is immediately north of Ro Guadalquivir. The
main square of modern Crdoba is Plaza de las
Tendillas, 500m north of the Mezquita.
Information
Most banks and ATMs are around Plaza de las
Tendillas and Avenida del Gran Capitn. The
bus and train stations have ATMs.
Ch@t (Calle Claudio Marcelo 15; per hr 2; h10am-1pm
& 5-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) Many terminals and
efficient internet access.
Hospital Reina Sofia (%957 21 70 00; Avenida de
Menndez Pidal s/n) Located 1.5km southwest of the
Mezquita.
Luque Libros (Calle Jos Cruz Conde 19) Sells city and
Michelin maps cheaper than the tourist shops near the
Mezquita.
Municipal tourist office (%957 20 05 22; Plaza de
Jud Lev; h8.30am-2.30pm Mon-Fri)
Polica Nacional (%95 747 75 00; Avenida Doctor
Fleming 2)
Post office (Calle Jos Cruz Conde 15)
Regional tourist office (%957 47 12 35; Calle de
Torrijos 10; h9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun,
to 8pm Mon-Sat Apr-Jul) Facing the western side of the
Mezquita.
C R D O B A P R O V I N C E C r d o b a 763
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INFORMATION
Ch@t......................................... 1
Luque Libros.............................. 2
Municipal Tourist Office............. 3
Polica Nacional.......................... 4
Post Office................................. 5
Regional Tourist Office.............. 6
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CRDOBAS PATIOS
For centuries, Crdobas beautiful leafy patios have provided shade during the searing heat of
summer, a haven of peace and quiet, and a place to talk and entertain. They probably originated
with the Romans, and the tradition was continued by the Arabs, with the happy addition of a
central fountain.
In the first half of May, youll notice Patio signs in Crdobas streets and alleys; this means
that youre invited to view what is for the rest of the year hidden behind heavy wooden doors
or wrought-iron gates. At this time of year, when new blooms proliferate, the patios are at their
prettiest. Many patios participate in the annual Concurso de Patios Cordobses, a competition
with prizes for the best patios. The tourist office can provide a map of patios that are open for
viewing. If you dont have a lot of time, those in the vicinity of Calle de San Basilio, about 400m
west of the Mezquita, are some of the best.
During the concurso, the patios are generally open from 5pm to midnight weekdays, and noon
to midnight weekends. Entry is usually free but sometimes theres a container for donations.
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JUDERA
s/n; adult/child 4/2.50; h10am-2pm & 4.30-8.30pm MaySep, to 6pm Oct-Apr), a 14th-century tower with a
provides a real insight into pre-Islamic Crdoba. A reclining stone lion takes pride of place
in the Iberian section, and the Roman period is
well represented from large mosaics and gladiatorial tombstones to elegant ceramics and tinted
glass bowls. The upstairs is devoted to medieval
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C R D O B A P R O V I N C E C r d o b a 765
766 C R D O B A P R O V I N C E C r d o b a
Sleeping
Crdoba heaves with budget accommodation
(though finding single rooms for a decent
price is not easy). Many lodgings are built
around some of the citys charming patios.
Booking ahead is wise from March to October
and essential during the main festivals. Prices
are generally reduced from November to midMarch, and some places also cut their rates
during hot July and August.
BUDGET
A quirky and individual hotel with large antique beds and full of smaller items that you
just wish you could take home. You can eat
your breakfast on the roof terrace overlooking
the Mezquita bell tower.
Casa de los Azulejos (%957 47 00 00; www.casa
delosazulejos.com/marco.htm; Calle Fernando Coln 5; d
low/high season 85/130; ai) Andaluca meets
dor is 3km north of the city centre. Its fabulously situated on the site of Abd ar-Rahman
Is summer palace and is a modern affair amid
lush green gardens where Europes first palm
trees were planted.
Eating
Dishes common to most Cordoban restaurants include salmorejo, a very thick tomatobased gazpacho, and rabo de toro (oxtail
stew). Some restaurants feature recipes from
Al-Andalus such as garlic soup with raisins,
honeyed lamb, or meat stuffed with dates and
nuts. The local tipple is wine from nearby
Montilla and Moriles, similar to sherry but
unfortified.
There are lots of places to eat right by the
Mezquita. A few mostly better-value places
are a short walk west into the jewish quarter.
A longer walk east or north turns up further
options.
Bar Santos (Calle Magistral Gonzlez Francs 3; tortillas
2.50) The legendary Santos serves the best tortilla de patata in town eaten with plastic forks
on paper plates, while gazing at the Mezquita.
Dont miss it.
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C R D O B A P R O V I N C E C r d o b a 767
Entertainment
Jazz Caf (%957 47 19 28; Calle Espartera s/n; admission
free; h8am-late) This fabulous laid-back bar puts
on regular live jazz and jam sessions.
Gran Teatro de Crdoba (%957 48 02 37; www.teatro
cordoba.com in Spanish; Avenida del Gran Capitn 3) This
theatre hosts a busy programme of concerts,
theatre, dance and film.
Surfer Rosa (%957 75 22 72; Feria El Arenal 4; admission
free; h11pm-late Thu-Sat) This is a huge and popular riverbank techno and breakbeat club in the
Recinto Ferial El Arenal (location of the Feria
de Mayo). Live bands play here frequently.
Shopping
Crdoba is known for its cuero repujado (embossed-leather) goods, silver jewellery (particularly filigree) and attractive pottery. Craft
shops congregate around the Mezquita. Meryan
(%95 747 59 02; Calleja de las Flores) is a top place for
embossed leather.
The bus station (%957 40 40 40; Plaza de las Tres Culturas) is 1km northwest of Plaza de las Tendillas,
behind the train station. Destinations include
Seville (9.50, 1 hours, six daily), Granada
(10.50, three hours, nine daily), Madrid
(14, 4 hours, six daily), Mlaga (10.50,
2 hours, five daily) and Jan (7, 1 hours,
seven daily).
Drinking
TRAIN
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768 G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E G r a n a d a
Getting Around
Bus 3 (1), from the street between the train
and bus stations, runs to Plaza de las Tendillas and down Calle de San Fernando, east of
the Mezquita. For the return trip, you can
pick it up on Ronda de Isasa, just south of
the Mezquita.
Taxis from the bus or train station to the
Mezquita cost around 5.
For drivers, Crdobas one-way system is
nightmarish, but routes to many hotels and
hostales are fairly well signposted with a P if
they have parking. Hotels charge about 10
to 12 per day for parking.
AROUND CRDOBA
Medina Azahara
In 936 Abd ar-Rahman III began the construction of a magnificent new capital for his
new caliphate, 8km west of Crdoba, and by
945 was able to install himself there. Legend
has it that Medina Azahara (Madinat al-Zahra; %957
the caliphs favourite wife Az-Zahra.
The new capital was amazingly short-lived.
Between 1010 and 1013, during the caliphates
collapse, Medina Azahara was wrecked by
Berber soldiers. Today, though less than onetenth of it has been excavated, and only about
a quarter of that is open to visitors, Medina
Azahara is still a fascinating place to visit.
The visitor route leads down to the Dar alWuzara (House of the Viziers), a substantial
building with several horseshoe arches, fronted
by a square garden, and on to the most impressive building, the painstakingly restored Saln
de Abd ar-Rahman III. This was the caliphs throne
hall, with beautiful horseshoe arching and exquisitely carved stuccowork, of a lavishness that
was unprecedented in the Islamic world.
Medina Azahara is signposted on Avenida
de Medina Azahara, which leads west out of
Crdoba onto the A431. Try to visit before
11am to avoid the coaches.
A taxi costs 24 for the return trip, with one
hour to view the site, or you can book a threehour coach tour for 5 to 10 through many
Crdoba hotels.
GRANADA PROVINCE
Some places in this world seem to have it
all: the looks, the jewels, the sense of fun,
a streetwise edge. Granada is one of those
places. Millions of people pour into the town
just to see its crown gem: the Alhambra, a
place that carries with it coffers-full of stories,
dreams and mysteries of the last 2 centuries
of a great civilisation. If theres one dont-miss
destination in Andaluca, this is it. But Granada the province is more than Granada the
city: its the snowcapped Sierra Nevada, the
highest mountain range in mainland Spain;
its the mystically beautiful Alpujarras valleys;
and its the Costa Tropical, Granadas own
slice of the Mediterranean coast.
GRANADA
pop 265,000 / elevation 685m
History
Granadas history reads like an excellent
thriller, with complicated plots, conspiracies,
hedonism and tricky love-affairs. Granada
began life as an Iberian settlement in the Albayzn district. Muslim forces took over from
the Visigoths in 711, with the aid of the Jewish
community around the foot of the Alhambra
hill in what was called Garnata al Jahud, from
which the name Granada derives; granada
also happens to be Spanish for pomegranate,
the fruit on the citys coat of arms.
After the fall of Crdoba (1236) and Seville
(1248), Muslims sought refuge in Granada,
where Mohammed ibn Yusuf ibn Nasr had set
up an independent emirate. Stretching from
the Strait of Gibraltar to east of Almera, this
Nasrid emirate became the final remnant of
Al-Andalus, ruled from the increasingly lavish Alhambra palace for 250 years. Granada
G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E G r a n a d a 769
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Orientation
The two major central streets, Gran Va de
Coln and Calle Reyes Catlicos, meet at
Plaza Isabel La Catlica. From here Calle
Reyes Catlicos runs southwest to Puerta
Real, an important intersection, and northeast
to Plaza Nueva. Cuesta de Gomrez leads
northeast up from Plaza Nueva towards the
Alhambra on its hilltop. The old Muslim
district, the Albayzn, rambles over another
hill that rises north of Plaza Nueva.
The bus station (northwest) and train station (west) are both out of the city centre but
linked by buses.
Information
BOOKSHOPS
Post office (Map p774; Puerta Real s/n; h8.30am8.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2pm Sat) Often has long queues.
TOURIST INFORMATION
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
32 91 30; adult/EU citizen 1.50/free; h10am-6.30pm TueSat, to 8.30pm Maymid-Sep, to 2pm Sun) was built for
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GRANADA
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EATING
Terraza las Tomasas..................... 9 D2
DRINKING
Caf Bar Elvira............................10 B2
ENTERTAINMENT
Afrodisia.....................................11
El Eshavira..................................12
Los Tarantos...............................13
Pea de la Platera.....................14
Teatro Alhambra....................... 15
B2
B2
E2
D2
D5
TRANSPORT
Buses to Airport.........................16 C6
ANDALUCA
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no
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To A44 Southbound
(1.6km); Industrial Copera
(2km); Motril (68km)
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ur
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Triunfo
Arco de
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300 m
0.2 miles
e
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An
Av
To Train Station de
la
Jardines
(400m); Hospital
Co
del Triunfo
Ruiz de Alda (550m);
ns
tit
Fuente Vaqueros
uc
i
To Monasterio de la
Cartuja (600m); Viznar
(8km); Alfacar (8km)
de Cartu
ja
C Real
ToCamping Sierra
Nevada (1.6km);
Bus Station (1.8km);
A44 Northbound (2km);
Jan (93km)
G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E G r a n a d a 771
772 G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E G r a n a d a
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0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
le
Caluelo
Ban
Calle Zafra
Calle Candil
Reyes
de los
Calle San Juan
16
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Palacio
del
9
Prtico
Jardines
del
Partal
Ch
Summer
Palace
Gate
(Closed)
Jardines
Altos
SLEEPING
Casa Morisca Hotel..........16
Hotel Amrica..................17
Hotel Guadalupe.............18
Parador de Granada.........19
Jardines
Nuevos
Generalife
Torre de
la Cautiva
3
lle
17
Re
22 al de
la A 19
lh
Ca
ENTERTAINMENT
Centro Cultural Manuel de
Falla.............................21 B3
Medina
Bosque
Alhambra
M
es
tir
r
20
TRANSPORT
Buses 30 & 32....................23 C3
Buses 30 & 32....................24 A2
18
Admission
Palacio Nazares
G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E G r a n a d a 773
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
de
21
SHOPPING
Laguna Taller de Taracea....22 B2
o
se
Pa
lo
Alixares
23
de los
Avenida
INFORMATION
Alhambra Information
Office............................1 A2
Pabelln de Acceso............2 C3
Regional Tourist Office....(see 2)
Ticket Office....................(see 2)
B1
B2
D3
B2
EATING
Caf................................20 D3
Parador de Granada.......(see 19)
Torre de
la Infanta
br
am
sta Empedrada 13
Cue
Puerta de
14 GCuesta
la Justicia Pilar de
ome de
Carlos V
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24
los
s
ino
12
de
15
5
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de los
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del Vino
Palacio
Nazares
10
sta
ue
Torre de
Comares
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774 G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E C e n t r a l G r a n a d a
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G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E G r a n a d a 775
0
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SHOPPING
Artespaa..............................(see 15)
Cermica Fabre........................Paseo
54 B3
El Core Ingls...........................Saln
55 C5
TRANSPORT
il
ATA.........................................
Gen 56 C3
Bus Nos 30 & 32......................
57 C3
Ro
Bus Nos 31 & 32...................... 58 C3
Bus Stop................................... 59 C3
Iberia....................................... 60 C3
Parking Plaza Puerta Real......... 61 B5
Parking San Agustn................. 62 B2
Paseo
de la
Bomba
lareal.granada.com; Calle Oficios; admission 3; h10.30am1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 11am-1pm & 4-7pm Sun Apr-Oct,
10.30am-1pm & 3.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-1pm & 3.306.30pm Sun Nov-Mar), adjoining the cathedral, is
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A4
C2
55
Po.......................................... 45
EATING
Al Andalus............................... 34 C3
Restaurante Arrayanes............. 46
Antigua Castaeda.................. 35 C3
Bodegas Castaeda.................. 36 C3
DRINKING
Caf Central............................ 37 C3
Anas Caf............................... 47
Cunini...................................... 38 B3
El Crculo.................................. 48
Calle de Alhamar
El Agua.................................... 39 D2
Guerrero.................................. 40 A3
ENTERTAINMENT
Kasbah..................................... 41 C3
El Upsetter............................... 49
Los Diamantes.......................... 42 B4
Granada 10.............................. 50
Mercado Central San
La Madraza.............................. 51
Planta Baja............................... 52
Agustn................................ 43 B3
Teatro Isabel La Catlica.......... 53
Om-Kalsum............................. 44 A4
elo
Plaza del
Realejo
P aco
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34 57
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31
D3
A3
A3
C3 Plaza
C3 de San
Nicols
D2
D2
B4
C3
B2
D2
C3
Hostal Landzuri...................... 22
Hostal Meridiano..................... 23
Hostal Sevilla............................ 24
Hostal Venecia......................... 25
Hotel Anacapri......................... 26
Hotel Carmen de Santa Ins..... 27
HotelGRANADA
Casa del Capitel Nazarf.. 28
Hotel Los Tilos.......................... 29
Albayzn
Hotel Maca Plaza.................... 30
C2
Hotel Palacio de Santa Paula.... 31
C3
Hotel Zagun........................... 32
D4 Oasis Backpacker's Hostel........ 33
SLEEPING
Casa del Aljarife....................... 19
Hostal Britz.............................. 20
Hostal La Ninfa........................ 21
Cj
n
B3
B3
D4
C4
D3
D3
D3
Capilla Real.............................. 12
Cathedral................................. 13
Centro de Lenguas Modernas.. 14
Corral del Carbn.................... 15
Hammam Baos rabes........... 16
Iglesia de Santa Ana................. 17
Puerta de las Granadas............ 18
C3
B2
A4
B4
A4
C3
C4
C5
D3
a
de Elvir
Calle
INFORMATION
BBVA......................................... 1
Internet Elvira............................. 2
Lavomatique.............................. 3
Main Post Office........................ 4
Metro........................................ 5
N@veg@web............................. 6
Polica Nacional.......................... 7
Provincial Tourist Office............. 8
Regional Tourist Office.............. 9
300 m
0.2 miles
C
Sa alle
lva d
do el
r
CENTRAL GRANADA
4pm-7.30pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct, 10.30am-12.30pm & 4.306.30pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar), a 16th-century church
ANDALUCA
C harca
Cuesta
Chapizdel
7
C destn
Sa n Agu
C de rlaass
Cab
l Camino Nue 6
ea
R
de San
vo
el la
Nichola
Placeta de
ta Isab
s
C San
Toqueros
Placeta
Cauchiles de
Reyes
n de los
San Miguel
a
Ju
n
Albayzn
Sa
o
C
Pase s
3
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de loes
10
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2
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Ac
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Car
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11
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16 19 32; Paseo de la Cartuja; admission 3; h10am-1pm & 48pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct, to 1pm & 3.30-6pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar, to
noon Sun year-round) was built between the 16th and
C Candil
MONASTERIO DE LA CARTUJA
Another architectural gem stands 2km northwest of the city centre, reached by bus 8 from
Gran Va de Coln. La Cartuja Monastery (%958
Museum; %958 22 56 40; Carrera del Darro 43; adult/EU citizen 1.50/free; h3-8pm Tue, 9am-8pm Wed-Sat, to 2.30pm
Sun), displaying finds from Granada province.
Plaza
de San
Nicols
C Zafra
n
Sa tin
C gus
A
Walking Tour
Plaza Nueva extends northeast into Plaza
Santa Ana, where the Iglesia de Santa Ana (1)
incorporates a mosques minaret in its belltower. Along narrow Carrera del Darro, stop
by the 11th-century Muslim bathhouse, the
Baos rabes El Bauelo (2; %958 02 78 00; Carrera del
Darro 31; admission free; h10am-2pm Tue-Sat). Further
along is the Museo Arqueolgico (3; Archaeological
Cjn
C
C
u el o
Ban
Plaza del
Salvador
C Pan
aderos
acaba
Cues
t a d e l a A lh
100 m
0.1 miles
Jo
0
0
C San
WALK FACTS
lvi
e E
Cd
29 59; admission 2.50; h10.45am-1.30pm & 4-8pm MonSat, 4-8pm Sun, to 7pm Nov-Mar) was begun in 1521,
Adjoining the Capilla Real but entered separately, from Gran Va de Coln, the cavernous
Gothic-Renaissance cathedral (Map p774; %958 22
G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E G r a n a d a 777
C Cr u z d e
CATHEDRAL
ALBAYZN
lonelyplanet.com
Sa n
de ilio
ec
lonelyplanet.com
776 G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E G r a n a d a
778 G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E G r a n a d a
Courses
Granada is a great place to study Spanish. It
also has several Spanish dance schools. The
provincial tourist office has lists of schools,
or check out www.granadaspanish.org and
www.spanishcourses.info.
Centro de Lenguas Modernas (Modern Languages
Centre; Map p774; %958 21 56 60; www.clm-granada
.com; Placeta del Hospicio Viejo s/n) Granada Universitys
modern-language department offers a variety of popular
Spanish-language and cultural programmes. Intensive
language courses, at all levels, start at 10 days (40 hours of
classes) for 305.
Escuela Carmen de las Cuevas (Map pp770-1; %958
22 10 62; www.carmencuevas.com; Cuesta de los Chinos 15,
Sacromonte) Private school with good reports. Teaches Spanish language and culture, and flamenco dance and guitar. A
two-week intensive language course (40 hours) costs 284.
renovated house, seconds away from the Caldereras and bars on Calle Elvira. This place
is designed for serious backpackers and word
spreads fast, so book ahead to enjoy its little luxuries: happy staff, free internet access,
rooftop terrace and personal safes.
Hostal Britz (Map p774; %/fax 958 22 36 52; Cuesta de
Gomrez 1; s/d 32/44, s/d without bathroom 25/34) The
friendly, efficient Britz has 22 clean rooms
with double glazing, gleaming wooden surfaces and central heating. Theres also a lift.
Hostal Landzuri (Map p774; %/fax 958 22 14 06;
Sleeping
BUDGET
Camping
MIDRANGE
A lovely hostal with friendly hosts and flowerand-picture-filled turquoise corridors. The
nine characterful rooms are all different. The
owners bring you a soothing herbal infusion
to drink each morning. Relaxing background
music plays, incense wafts, and its warm in
winter and fan-cooled during the hot summer months.
Oasis Backpackers Hostel (Map p774; %958 21
58 48; www.oasisgranada.com; Placeta Correo Viejo 3; dm
G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E G r a n a d a 779
ANDALUCA
by a young family, has pretty tiles and lampshades, and a great, large attic double.
Hostal Meridiano (Map p774; %/fax 958 25 05 44;
HAMMAMS
Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com
Tours
ANDALUCA
780 G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E G r a n a d a
ALHAMBRA
Eating
lonelyplanet.com
Drinking
Granada buzzes with floorboard-bashing flamenco dancers, bottle-clinking travellers and
grooving students out on the prowl. The best
street for drinking is Calle Elvira but other
chilled bars line Ro Darro at the base of the
Albayzn and Campo del Prncipe attracts a
sophisticated bunch.
Bodegas Castaeda (opposite) (Calle Almireceros)
and Antigua Castaeda (opposite) (Calle de Elvira)
are the most inviting, with out-of-the-barrel
wine and bites of tapas to keep things going.
El Crculo (Map p774; Calle de Elvira) A calm and
unpretentious tapas bar with a slightly retro
feel. After one of the large spirit measures you
might be wishing there were more seats.
Caf Bar Elvira (Map pp770-1; Calle de Elvira 85; hfrom
noon) A jolly hang-out for the dreadlocks, whistle
and dog-on-a-bit-of-string type crowd. Theres
drinking, singing and shouting all day partly
thanks to the large spirit measures.
Anas Caf (Map p774; Calle Buensuceso 13; h9am1pm) A bar for imbibing bookworms, literary evenings and tarot readings, as well as
mindless fun.
Entertainment
The excellent monthly Gua de Granada (1),
available from kiosks, lists entertainment venues and places to eat, including tapas bars.
CLUBS
G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E G r a n a d a 781
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
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782 G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E G r a n a d a
Shopping
TRAIN
The train station (Map pp770-1; %958 20 40 00; Avenida de Andaluces) is 1.5km west of the centre, off
Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com
G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E A r o u n d G r a n a d a 783
the homes of about 3000 modern-day townsfolk. The typical 21st-century cave has a whitewashed wall across the entrance, and a chimney
and TV aerial sticking out of the top. Some
have many rooms and all mod cons. Spending
a night in a cave is the obvious attraction.
Guadixs tourist office (%958 66 26 65; Carretera
TAXI
de Granada s/n; h9am-3pm Mon, to 4pm Tue-Fri, 10am2pm Sat) is on the Granada road leaving the
town centre.
Sights
At the centre of Guadix is a fine sandstone cathedral (admission 2; h10.30am-1pm & 2-7pm Mon-Sat,
9.30am-1pm Sun), built between the 16th and 18th
centuries in a succession of Gothic, Renaissance and baroque styles.
A short distance south is the 11th-century
Islamic castle, the Alcazaba (Calle Barradas 3; admis-
AROUND GRANADA
Getting Around
Fuente Vaqueros
experience at this comfy, modern apartmenthotel that has a pool and a restaurant. Its 3km
from the centre, along the Murcia road.
Hotel Comercio (%958 66 05 00; www.hotelcomercio
City buses cost 0.90. Tourist offices have leaflets showing routes. Bus 3 runs between the
bus station and Gran Va de Coln in the city
centre. To reach the city centre from the train
station, walk to Avenida de la Constitucin and
pick up bus 4, 6, 7, 9 or 11 going to the right
(east). From the centre (Gran Va de Coln) to
the train station, take number 3, 4, 6, 9 or 11.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Vehicle access to the Plaza Nueva area is restricted by red lights and little black posts
known as pilonas, which block certain streets
during certain times of the day. If you are
going to stay at a hotel near Plaza Nueva, press
the button next to your hotels name beside
the pilonas to contact reception, which will be
able to lower the pilonas for you.
GUADIX
SIERRA NEVADA
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
lonelyplanet.com
Laujar de
Andarax (9km);
Almera (86km)
Laroles
lonelyplanet.com
Embalse
de Beninar
Parque Natural
Sierra Nevada
Murtas
Cojyar
tor
GRENADA
A348
Torvizcn
Almegjar
A L
Notez
P U J
R o Guadalfeo
Cstaras
Ferreirola
Fondales
La Taha
Busqustar
Pitres Atalbitar
To Albuol
(34km)
A7210
Mecina
Mecinilla
rgiva
A348
To Granada
(45km)
A346
R o Gua
dalfeo
Carataunas
Ermita del
Padre Eterno
Bayacas
Soportjar
Car
Parque Natural
Sierra Nevada
To Vlez de
Benaudalla (9km);
Motril (22km)
Prtugos
To Albuol
(22km)
Lobras
Timar
Juvles
A7210
Portichuelo
de Cstaras
Bubin
Capilerilla
Capileira
Parque Nacional
Sierra Nevada
Pampaneira
Hoya del
Portillo
Puerto
Molina
El Chorrillo
(2727m) Mirador de
Trevlez
(2680m)
G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E S i e r r a N e v a d a 785
SLEEPING
Alctar
Brchules
Parque Nacional
Sierra Nevada
d a
N e v a
Central de
Poqueira
La Cebadilla
Refugio
Poqueira
Cortijo Las
Tomas
A345
Cdiar
Narila
Lanjarn
Ro
D la
Caballo
(3010m)
a
S i e r r
Trevlez
erro
Alcazaba
(3366m)
Veleta
(3395m) Refugio Vivac Mulhacn
La Caldera (3479m)
Caada de Siete
Lagunas
Refugio Vivac
Ro
La Carigela
Culo de
P
Jorairtar
Golco
Mecina
Bombarn
a
e r r
S i
Puntal de
Vacares
(3129m)
Las Posiciones
del Veleta (3020m)
Borreguiles
(2645m)
Hoya de la
Mora
Ro
Ytor
Yegen
Parque Natural
Sierra Nevada
d a
Pe n del
Puerto
(2750m)
To Jerez
del Marquesado
(10km)
El Cuervo
(3152m)
La Atalaya Horcajo
(3107m)
(3182m)
Cerro Trevlez
(2877m)
Puerto
de Trevlez
(2800m)
N e v
a
Lanja
Pradollano
(Estacin de Esqu
Sierra Nevada; 2100m)
rn
Ro
A395
To Centro de Visitantes
El Dornajo (8km);
Granada (30km)
Path N
MulhR o
acn
ra
uei
R o Po
q
R o Chico
ANDALUCA
ALMERA
Ugjar
San Juan
(2786m)
Nechite
Vlor
0
0
R o de Mecina
R o Grande
Trevlez
Ro
Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com
ANDALUCA
casillas
lde
Va
Ro
Chern
Mairena
Darrical
rcal
Bay
les
Laro
R o de
Lucainena
5 km
3 miles
Rio
Bayrcal
784 G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E W e s t e r n S i e r r a N e v a d a & A l p u j a r r a s
786 G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E L a s A l p u j a r r a s
lonelyplanet.com
History
In the 10th and 11th centuries the Alpujarras was a great silkworm farm for the silk
workshops of Almera. This activity arose in
rgiva
pop 5000 / elevation 725m
Youll find ATMs outside the car-park entrance in Pampaneira, and in Capileira at La
General (Calle Doctor Castilla).
Punto de Informacin Parque Nacional de Sierra
Nevada (%958 76 31 27; Plaza de la Libertad, Pampaneira; h10am-3pm Sun & Mon, to 2pm & 5-7pm TueSat, 10am-2pm & 4-6pm Tue-Sat approx mid-OctEaster)
Plenty of information about Las Alpujarras and Sierra
Nevada; maps and books for sale.
G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E L a s A l p u j a r r a s 787
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
LAS ALPUJARRAS
Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com
788 G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E L a s A l p u j a r r a s
East of Trevlez
21, Mecina; s/d 29/42, incl breakfast 30/45; hdinner WedMon; v) A welcoming little French-run guest-
BRCHULES
Bubin
Capileira
Trevlez
pop 800 / elevation 1476m
Seventeen kilometres from Trevlez, Brchules is in a green valley stretching far back
into the hills, with attractive walks. Hotel Los
Brchules (%958 85 25 30; www.hotelberchules.com;
Carretera s/n; s/d 42/45; mains 6-11; p), by the main
road, has good, clean, bright rooms, helpful
English-speaking hosts who can help you set
up all manner of activities, and an excellent
restaurant (try the local lamb with mint).
YEGEN
G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E T h e C o a s t 789
THE COAST
Granadas rugged, clifflined, 80km coast has a
few reasonably attractive beach towns, linked
by several daily buses to Granada, Mlaga
and Almera.
Salobrea
pop 11,000
Almucar
pop 23,000
From the highway Almucar seems an uninviting group of apartment blocks with pebbly
beaches, but it has a more attractive older
heart around the 16th-century castle. The
bus station (%958 63 01 40; Avenida Juan Carlos I 1) is
just south of the N340. The main tourist office
(%958 63 11 25; www.almunecar.info; Avenida Europa s/n;
h10am-2pm & 5-7pm) is 1km southwest, just back
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com
To Baeza (48km);
beda (57km);
Granada (93km);
Cazorla (102km)
Plaza
de
Toros
16
Plaza del
Psito
n
ue
aF
el
ed
Call
sefa Se
15
C de Jo
Plaza
de San
Francisco
las s
lle na
5
Ca mpa
CaPlaza de
Santa
Mara s
Jes
Ce
rn
am
e
Call
Calle Madre
de Dios
To Parador (1.8km);
Castillo de Santa
Catalina (1.9km)
el
d
lle
Ca
lle
ta
navis
de
Bue
Ca
Plaza de
Santiago
lle
os
Mercado
Central San
Francisco
Do
rt
Ba
n
Col
de
2
rdo
rna
la C Be pez
L
M
Arco de
a
14
e
3
San Lorenzo
str
a
12
Calle Arco del
Consuelo
10
te
en
nC
lem
Sa
de
govia
Plaza de San
Ildefonso
Plaza de la
Constitucin
Calle Nueva
Ca
al
ls
Plaza de
San Juan
Cerro de
Santa Catalina
in
Footpath
11
TRANSPORT
Bus Station........................................17 E2
To Parador (1km);
Castillo de Santa
Catalina (1.1km)
ala
c
nv
rcu
Ci
ad
Ca
rre
ter
eS
Cd
Calle Sa
nto Do
mingo
Plaza de
Magdalena
Calle Juan
Practicanito el
te
E2
E2
E3
A4
SLEEPING
Hostal Carlos V..................................8
Hotel Europa.......................................9
Hotel Xauen......................................10
Parador Castillo de Santa Catalina....11
DRINKING
El Azulejo..........................................15 E4
Iroquai..............................................16 F3
ra
la
ta C
uz
Cr
Sta
dro
n C
Capit
nd
eP
rie
go
Plaza de
Santa Luisa
de Marillac
ed
Call
eM
illn
riego
eP
Plaza S
Bartolom
sL
ort
ill
And
r
lle
de
de S
a
ida del
Aven
EATING
Casa Vicente.................................... 12 D4
Mesn Ro Chico..............................13 E2
Taberna La Manchega..................... 14 D4
pe
Ca
zO
de
lle
Ca Plaza
de los
Jardinillos
bre
13
d
Soleda
a
Madre
Acost
Torres
Pje
ed
Call
z
ctor Saga
C del Do lzu
Zube
Calle de Vergara
9
8
Plaza de
Coca de
la Piera
17
el S
za
Ma
oR
ant
gn
Calle
ha
Al
la
Plaza del
Den
Mazas
Avenida de Granada
Plaza de
Beln
cn
Calle Juan Rin
a
Ull
ez
m
rG
os a
cto
eS
d
Do
ope
eL
os
n
Cd
a
tes
Ar
os
el
d
lle
Morillas
Calle Tres
Ca
0
0
ein
Cr
de
ez
on
ist
L a G
pe on
z z
Ca
Calle
de
Walls
100 m
stilla
ra
ive
rC
cto
de
ra
C de
arr
e
Pescader
C de la
Ca
INFORMATION
Cyber Cu@k.......................................1 F3
Librera Metrpolis.............................2 D4
Tourist Office.................................... 3 D4
de
So
de B
eln
To Train Station
(450m)
a
aes
eB
ed
Call
Parque de la
Victoria
Plaza
de las
Batallas
lle
no
ria
ern
a
Cuesta
C Virgen Cap
illa
0.1 miles
lle
Ca
CG
ll
Ca
lle
Ca
eH
as
ian
rac
Ag
de
do
ur
ta
Calle Dr Juan
Pedro
B
Gutirrez
l
ao
Esp
Calle del Sagrado
o
it
c
Ejr
rn
ar
uil
os
l
eA
Ga
r
nd
oz
od
Te
ll
M
u
de
JAN
ica
ANDALUCA
CM
zM
ne
Sa
ro
na
oli
art
e
ed
To
me
ol
ch
lva
de
Ca
lle
Ca
or
o
ll
Ca
ra
Sights
ctor Luzn
Calle del Do
octo
CD
Ca
l Ro
me
igu
e
isonales
in
stac
la E
de
eo
es
Rey
ANDALUCA
JAN PROVINCE
sa
olo
eT
as d
Nav
te
Information
e
Call
Pas
as
ard
Orientation
de Madrid
ern
Avenida
sB
d
8km
south of Brchules, Cdiar (populata
er
C tion 1600) is one of the bigger Alpujarras
villages. Just 2km south of Cdiar off the
A348 towards rgiva, youll reach the most
charming place to stay in the whole Alpus
rre
jarras, the
To Alquera de Morayma. Walkers,
ro
natureCuat lovers and alternative types will
particularly enjoy this gem of an old farmPje
stead, which has been lovingly renovated
Nuyra
and
expanded by its progressive granadino
arn
de o
yM
alle arais
n
lp
old owners to provide unique, Ccomfortable
Va
CR
rooms and apartments. Theres excellent,
moderately-priced food, a library of Alpuo
jarras information, fine walking, fascinating
isp z
Ob le
l
os
art and artefacts everywhere,
and courses
C onz
el
de
d
G
C
le
in disciplines suchCalas yoga and tai chi are
oyo
o Arr
offered.
rd
a
Edu
Pu
eL
a
JAN
s
Pa
Dieg
o
an interesting little museum. The castle ticket includes the worthwhile Museo Arqueolgico (%958
63 12 52; Calle Mlaga), a few streets northeast in a
set of Roman underground galleries called the
Cueva de Siete Palacios.
You can paraglide, windsurf, dive, sail, ride
a horse or descend canyons in and around
Almucar and nearby La Herradura. The
tourist office and its website have plenty of
information.
Fe
la
de
eD
o
AUTHORS CHOICE
ria
eo
es Bajos
J A N P R O V I N C E J a n 791
darv
Just behind Playa de San Cristbal is a tropicalbird aviary, Parque Ornitolgico Loro-Sexi (%958
lonelyplanet.com
de A
lonelyplanet.com
Calle
790 J A N P R O V I N C E J a n
792 J A N P R O V I N C E J a n
Sleeping
Hostal Carlos V (%953 22 20 91; Avenida de Madrid 4, 2nd
fl; s/d without bathroom 21/35; a) The best budget
option in town, the friendly, family-run Carlos V provides pleasant rooms with wroughtiron beds and a TV in each room.
Hotel Xauen (%953 24 07 89; www.hotelxauenjaen
.com; Plaza del Den Mazas 3; s/d 40/55; pai) The
Xauen has good facilities and spacious, wellappointed rooms, making it popular with
businessfolk.
Hotel Europa (%953 22 27 00; www.husa.es; Plaza
de Beln 1; s/d 34/57; pa) Though the rooms
are only adequate, the Europas location off
Avenida de Granada makes it a convenient
option for drivers.
Eating
Taberna La Manchega (%953 23 21 92; Calle Bernardo
Lpez 12; platos combinados 4; hlunch & dinner Wed-Mon)
Drinking
Cool drinking spots include stylish El Azulejo
(Calle de Hurtado 8) playing everything from pop
to electronic to jazz, and Iroquai (Calle Adarves Bajos
53) which usually has live rock, blues, flamenco
or fusion on Thursday.
BAEZA
pop 16,000 / elevation 790m
Sights
Opening times of some buildings vary unpredictably.
In the centre of beautiful Plaza del Ppulo
is the Fuente de los Leones (Fountain of the
Lions), topped by an ancient statue believed to
represent Imilce, a local Iberian princess who
was married to Hannibal. On the southern
side of the plaza is the Plateresque Casa del
Ppulo from about 1540 (housing Baezas
tourist office).
Now a high school, Baezas Antigua Universidad (Old University; Calle Beato Juan de vila; admission
free; h10am-1pm & 4-6pm Thu-Tue) was founded in
1538 and closed (for being too progressive)
in 1824. The main patio has two levels of elegant Renaissance arches. Round the corner
is the early-16th-century Palacio de Jabalquinto
(Plaza Santa Cruz; admission free; h10am-2pm & 4-6pm
Thu-Tue), a mansion with a flamboyant Isabel-
J A N P R O V I N C E B a e z a 793
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com
Cava
Calle
C Obispo
Toral
Me
rce
d
a
el
ad
est
Cu
al
Lo
s
11
3
Baja de El Salv
ador
C de S Mara
Soledad de Torres Acosta
C Prior Mon
teagud
o
Plaza de
los Olleros
cia
len
Va 8
lle
Ca
M
a de San illn
Calle Fuente
lle
C del
Carmen
C Rastro
Calle Sagasta
eja
ll
ura
CM
iel
SHOPPING
Alfarera Tito............................15 C2
ont
ntes
C C erva
7
Plaza
Vzquez
de Molina
go
TRANSPORT
Bus Station...............................16 A1
comfortably modern and appropriately luxurious. Its restaurant is deservedly the most
popular in town, serving up delicious and
elegant dishes (around 12 to 17). Try local
specialities such as carrucano (green peppers
stuffed with partridge) or cabrito guisado con
piones (stewed kid with pine nuts).
Mesn Restaurante Navarro (%953 79 06 38; Plaza
del Ayuntamiento 2; raciones 4-9) Crammed, smoky
and noisy, the Navarro is a cherished local
favourite. In summer its nice to sit out on the
plaza.
Restaurante El Seco (%953 79 14 52; Calle Corazn
de Jess 8; men 12) On a pretty old-town square,
El Seco has good traditional dishes such as
steaming carne de monte (usually venison)
with a rich tomato sauce or lightly grilled
trout with mixed vegetables.
Shopping
The typical green glaze on bedas attractive
pottery dates back to Islamic times. Several
workshops on Cuesta de la Merced and Calle
Valencia in the Barrio San Milln, the potters quarter northeast of the old town, sell
their wares on the spot, and the potters are
ANDALUCA
al
HOSPITAL DE SANTIAGO
3pm & 4-10pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm & 6-10pm Sat & Sun)
10
Ca
Plaza del 1
de Mayo
13
Plaza del
Ayuntamiento
e
all
C Fuente
Seca
15
14
in
EATING
Mesn Restaurante Navarro....13 C2
Restaurant El Seco...................14 C2
A1
C2
C2
C2
to
Calle Corazn
de Jesus
SLEEPING
Hostal Sevilla..............................9
Hotel Mara de Molina.............10
Parador Condestable Dvalos...11
Rosaleda de Don Pedro............12
an
Re
CS
m
Do
Plaza del
Marqus
de la
Rambla
nca
12
Plaza de
San Pedro
CM
C Mesones
Plaza de
Andaluca
ro
ad
C Cru
Hierrz de
o
Calle Alaminos
Market
Puerto
Fernando
Corredera de San
The fine architecture is mostly in the southeastern old part of town, a web of narrow
streets and expansive plazas. Budget accommodation and the bus station are in the drab
new town in the west and north.
The tourist office (%953 75 08 97; Calle Baja del
Sights
Obis
po
Ag
ua
Calle Trinidad
da
na
pla
Calle Caldereros
Beltran
iza
ia
Ar
tor
INFORMATION
Tourist Office.............................1 C2
as
in
ll
Ca
Plaza
de
Toros
Ex
de Santiag
o
Calle
Barrio
San Milln
lle
Redonda
Call
Nio
Plaza 1 de Mayo used to be bedas market square and bullring, and the Inquisition
burnt heretics where its kiosk now stands.
Worthies would watch the merry events
from the gallery of the elegant 16th-century
Antiguo Ayuntamiento (Old Town Hall) in the
southwestern corner. Along the top (northern) side of the square is the Iglesia de San
Pablo (h7-9pm), with a fine late-Gothic portal
from 1511.
The Museo de San Juan de la Cruz (%953 75 06
ANDALUCA
Vic
ll
Ca
lle
200 m
0.1 miles
Ca
To Baeza (9km);
Jan (57km)
Ca
CM
Barraca
Trillo
16
Av
ls
co
rio
NI
na
n
pa
Sa Cam
a
enid
0
0
To Bailn
(41km)
C Prior Bla
l
aja
y C To Cazorla
n
(46km)
am
cole
BEDA
J A N P R O V I N C E b e d a 795
Cor
BEDA
Ca l le
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l o n eaccommodation
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Avenida de la Constitucin
lonelyplanet.com
794 J A N P R O V I N C E b e d a
Sierra
de Las
Villas
Santo
Tom
Parque Natural de
las Sierras de Cazorla,
Segura y Las Villas
ulas
ivi
A319
11
al
ad
Gu
Ro
Cerrada
de El as
A319
alk
Laguna de
Valdeazores
To Pontones
(20km); Santiago
de la Espada (25km)
nt
Gu
ad
Vadillo Castril
Empalme
del Valle 9
12
ale
La Iruela
To Peal De
Becerro (4km);
beda (37km);
Baeza (46km);
Jan (94km)
a W
Sendero de la
Cerrada del Utrero
Cazorla
ros
r os
Cascada de Linarejos
A319
Bo
Bo
Arroyo Fro
Mirador Paso del Aire
Burunchel
Laguna de
Aguas Negras
Puerto de
las Palomas
Sierra de
Cazorla Drive
qu
am
Banderillas
(1993m)
1 2
Torre del
Vinagre
Chilluevar
Coto Ros
10
Cerro de la
Empanada
(2107m) G R A N A D A
Parque Natural
Sierra de Castril
El Chorro
Quesada
INFORMATION
Centro de Interpretacin Torre del
Vinagre......................................1 C2
Gilillo
(1848m)
Puerto Lorente
To Pozo
Alcn (23km);
Baza (66km)
SLEEPING
Camping Chopera Coto Ros..........6
Camping Fuente de la Pascuala......7
Camping Llanos de Arance.............8
Complejo Puente de las Herreras...9
Hotel de Montaa La Hortizuela..10
Hotel Noguera de la Sierpe...........11
Parador El Adelantado..................12
C1
D1
C1
B3
C2
C2
B3
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
Sights
Mogn
Embalse del
Tranco de Beas
To Villacarrillo
(3km)
5 km
3 miles
Ag
CAZORLA
0
0
Ro
AROUND CAZORLA
J A N P R O V I N C E Pa r q u e N a t u r a l d e C a z o r l a 797
lonelyplanet.com
S i
e r
r a
796 J A N P R O V I N C E C a z o r l a
798 J A N P R O V I N C E Pa r q u e N a t u r a l d e C a z o r l a
Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com
SEGURA DE LA SIERRA
The most spectacular and interesting village inside the park, Segura sits 20km north
of Hornos, atop a 1100m hill crowned by
a castle dominating the countryside for far
around. When taken in 1214 by the Knights
of Santiago, Segura was one of the very first
Christian conquests in Andaluca.
As you reach the upper part of the village,
theres a tourist office (%953 12 60 53; h10.30am2pm & 6.30-8.30pm) beside the Puerta Nueva arch.
Seguras two main monuments are normally
left open all day every day, but you should
check this before proceeding.
The Bao Moro (Muslim Bathhouse; Calle Caballeros
Santiaguistas), built about 1150, has three elegant
rooms (for cold, tepid and hot baths) with
horseshoe arches and barrel vaults studded
with skylights. The castle, at the top of the
village, has Islamic (or maybe even earlier) origins. From its three-storey keep there are great
views across to El Yelmo and far to the west.
Tours
A number of operators offer trips to some of the
parks less accessible areas, plus other activities.
Hotels and camping grounds in the park can
often arrange for them to pick you up.
Excursiones Bujarkay (%953 71 30 11; www.swin
.net/usuarios/jcg; Calle Borosa 81, Coto Ros) Walking,
4WD, biking and horse-riding trips with local guides.
Tierraventura (%953 72 20 11; www.tierraventura
cazorla.com in Spanish; Calle Ximnez de Rada 17, Cazorla)
Multiadventure activities including canoeing, hiking and
rock climbing.
TurisNat (%953 72 13 51; www.turisnat.org in Spanish;
Paseo del Santo Cristo 17, Cazorla) Offers 4WD trips to
zonas restringidas (areas where vehicles are not normally
allowed) for 25/45 per person per half/full day.
CAMPING
A L M E R A P R O V I N C E A l m e r a 799
a picturesque little lake 5km north of Arroyo Fro, is a hunters favourite and decked
out with trophies, including an alert-looking
stuffed lion in the lobby. The rooms are comfortable, if not exactly cosy. You can arrange
riding sessions at the hotels stables and there
is a good rustic restaurant.
Parador El Adelantado (%953 72 70 75; www
.parador.es; s/d 103/129; pas) This huntinglodge-style parador has a lovely pine forest
setting, grassy garden and good pool, but only
nine of the 33 rooms have views. Its at the end
of the JF7094, near Vadillo Castril.
ALMERA PROVINCE
Andalucas remote, parched and mountainous eastern province, long impoverished, has
harnessed its main resource more than 3000
hours of sunshine a year to achieve a spectacular economic comeback through tourism and intensive horticulture in ugly plastic
greenhouses, where much of the labour is done
by thousands of migrant Moroccan workers.
Though some of the coast has suffered from
dreary Costa-del-Sol style ribbon development,
the dramatic Cabo de Gata promontory remains more or less pristine and its beaches are
easily the best in Mediterranean Andaluca.
ALMERA
pop 171,000
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
RO BOROSA WALK
lonelyplanet.com
800 A L M E R A P R O V I N C E A l m e r a
lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com
A L M E R A P R O V I N C E A l m e r a 801
0
0
ALMERA
da
Puerta de
Purchena
C Tenor
18 Iribarne
12
15
Orientation
tos
rat
Ga
rca
L
Plaza de las
Floresnamed
To Hospital
Torrecrdenas (4km);
Mini Hollywood (25km);
Guadix (116km);
Granada (171km)
pos
Av
de
la
Est
a
ci
n
ara
Plaza
Barcelona
s
mano
C Herchado
Ma
eF
ede
rico
Plaza
de la
Estacin
Av
d
ge
nt
e
Av
R
10
Re
Ferry
Terminal
Building
ALMERA
Ca
a
ter
rr e
de
nd
Ro
23
Train
Station
B2
C3
A2
A2
SLEEPING
Gran Hotel Almera.................... 10
Hostal Sevilla.............................. 11
Hotel AM Torreluz..................... 12
Hotel Torreluz (Three Star)......... 13
Hotel Torreluz (Two Star)........... 14
D4
D1
C2
C2
C2
EATING
Comidas Sol de Almera............. 15
La Charka.................................. 16
La Encina Restaurante................ 17
Restaurante Valentin.................. 18
D2
C3
C2
C2
Av
del
Cab
o
Pa s
ALCAZABA
Ga
ta
eo
Ma
riti
mo
To Beach (200m);
Eolo (400m)
DRINKING
Desatino.................................... 19 C3
Georgia Caf Bar........................ 20 C2
ENTERTAINMENT
Pea El Taranto.......................... 21 C2
TRANSPORT
Bus for Airport............................22 E2
Bus Station................................. 23 F4
Puerto
Comercial
D2
E3
E1
D2
C4
h8am-2am)
To Melilla;
Nador
INFORMATION
El Libro Picasso............................ 1
Municipal Tourist Office............... 2
Polica Local..................................3
Post Office................................... 4
Regional Tourist Office................ 5
Golfo de
Almera
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
Gre
go
rio
M
ca
Lor
Ga
rca
tine
z
Mar
C
Parque de
Nicols
Salmern
Cd
el D
oc t
or
Rambla
de
Beln
Cam
Re
al
Ge
ron
a
To Mlaga
(207km)
Information
C Rue
da L
pez
Cd
e
22
Ofalia
C Infa
nta
C Tr
19
ajan
o
C Antonio
Gonzles Egea
16
Plaza
Bendicho
Plaza
Virgen
Plaza
del Mar
Pablo
Cazard
C Con
de
Plaza
de Juan
Cassinello
ez
C Mendez Nu
C Javier Sanz
Plaza
de la
Catedral
C d el C
ubo
uez
CV
e l zq
C Sa
n Ju
an
Jove
r
Almera
Paseo de
CP
edro
C Pa
dre
Luqu
e
20
C Reyes
Catlicos
C de la Reina
San
Av
de
Fed
eri
co
14
o rc
a
21
a r
na
Plaza del
Carmen
13
Plaza
Constitucin
Plaza
Granero
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C de Ias
Tiendas
17
s 11
co
ar
M
G
de
z
C
Muo
Plaza San C Alcalde
Sebastin
Vico
0.3 miles
sias
ablo Igle
Av de P
C An
tonio
400 m
802 A L M E R A P R O V I N C E A l m e r a
lonelyplanet.com
Eating
BOAT
CATHEDRAL
(39 to 90) with English-speaking staff to explore some of the dramatic cliffs and beaches
of the Parque Natural Cabo de Gata-Njar by
windsurfing, kayaking, catamaran and other
water-related activities.
Sleeping
Hostal Sevilla (%950 23 00 09; Calle de Granada 23; s/d
34/54; a) This best budget bet is a cheerful
and efficient place that offers clean rooms
with flickering TV. Old-fashioned grey phones
are the hostals design peak.
Hotel Torreluz (%950 23 43 99; www.torreluz.com;
Plaza de las Flores 2 & 3; s/d 2-star 39/57, 3-star 56/74;
pa) Burnt plum walls, spacious, comfort-
(www.ltu.de), Hapagfly (www.hapagfly.com) and AirBerlin (www.airberlin.com) fly from several German cities, and Transavia (www.transavia.com) from
Amsterdam. Iberia (www.iberia.com) flies direct
BUS
Getting Around
AROUND ALMERA
Mini Hollywood
A L M E R A P R O V I N C E A r o u n d A l m e r a 803
Njar
Attractive and unusual glazed pottery and colourful striped cotton rugs, known as jarapas,
are made and sold in this small town 34km
northeast of Almera. Its well worth a little
detour if youre driving this way.
CABO DE GATA
Some of Spains most beautiful and least
crowded beaches are strung between grand
cliffs and capes around this arid promontory
east of Almera city, where dark volcanic hills
tumble straight into a sparkling turquoise sea.
This is the driest place in Europe and scattered
palm groves and clusters of whitewashed, flatroofed houses give it a positively North African air at times. Though Cabo de Gata is not
undiscovered, it still has a wild, elemental feel
and, with a couple of exceptions in July and
August, its scattered villages remain low-key.
You can walk along, or not far from, the coast
right round from Retamar in the northwest to
Agua Amarga in the northeast (61km), but in
summer theres little shade.
Its worth calling ahead for accommodation
over Easter and in July and August.
The Parque Natural de Cabo de Gata-Njar covers
Cabo de Gatas 60km coast plus a slice of hinterland. The parks main information centre is
the Centro de Interpretacin Las Amoladeras (%950
16 04 35; h10am-2pm & 5.30-9pm mid-Julmid-Sep, to
3pm Tue-Sun mid-Sepmid-Jul), about 2.5km west
of Ruescas.
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
0
0
CABO DE GATA
To Sorbas
(22km)
10 km
6 miles
To Mojcar (20km)
To Murcia
(158km)
Carboneras
A7
Njar
Playa de los
Muertos
Faro de la
Mesa Roldn
N341
Agua
Amarga
Campohermoso
eM
bl
ad
Punta Javana
er
ra
Salinas de Cabo
de Gata
Birdwatching Hide
Los Escullos
El Pozo de El Fraile
Parque Natural
(493m)
los Frailes
de Cabo de
Cerro de
Gata-N jar
Punta de
Santa Cruz
Loma
Pelada
(432m)
San Jos
Cala Higuera
Cerro de
la Testa
(343m)
La Almadraba
de Monteleva
ANDALUCA
de
Pujaire
El Cabo de Gata
Parque Natural
de Cabo de
Gata-N jar
Si
Golfo de
Almer a
Lobos (265m)
Ruescas
Centro de Interpretacin
Las Amoladeras
Camping Cabo de Gata
Rodalquilar
Los
Albaricoques
El Barranquete
Las Negras
Camping La Caleta
de
AL12
Ca
b
Retamar
Hortichuelas
A N
A7
To Almera
(12km)
ta
Ra
m
To Granada (176km);
Mlaga (219km)
Fernn Prez
Parque Natural
de Cabo de
Gata-N jar
Ga
San Isidro
de Njar
S E A
or
al
es
Cala de Enmedio
Cala del Plomo
El Naranjero (%950 37 01 11; Calle Iglesia 1; mains 1025; hclosed Sun) One of the nearest things to a
San Jos
pop 550
Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com
A L M E R A P R O V I N C E C a b o d e G a t a 805
ANDALUCA
804 A L M E R A P R O V I N C E C a b o d e G a t a
806 A L M E R A P R O V I N C E M o j c a r
MOJCAR
Mojcar, northeast of Cabo de Gata, is actually
two towns: the old Mojcar Pueblo, a jumble
of white, cube-shaped houses on a hilltop 2km
inland; and Mojcar Playa, a modern beach resort strip 7km long but only a few blocks wide.
Though dominated by tourism, the Pueblo
is picturesque with its mazelike streets and
bougainvillea-swathed balconies. Mojcar
Playa has few high-rise buildings, a long, clean
beach, and a lively summer scene.
From the 13th to 15th centuries, Mojcar
found itself on the Granada emirates eastern
frontier, finally falling to the Catholic Monarchs
in 1488. Tucked away in an isolated corner of
one of Spains most backward regions, it was
decaying and half-abandoned by the mid-20th
century, before its mayor started luring artists
and others with giveaway property offers.
lonelyplanet.com
craft shops, galleries and boutiques. The Mirador El Castillo, at the topmost point, provides
magnificent views. The fortress-style Iglesia
de Santa Mara (Calle Iglesia) dates from 1560, and
may have once been a mosque.
The most touching spot is the Fuente Mora
(Moorish Fountain; Calle La Fuente) in the lower part of
the Pueblo. Though remodelled in modern
times, it maintains the medieval Islamic tradition of making art out of flowing water. An
inscription records the moving speech made
here, according to legend, by Alavez, the last
Islamic governor of Mojcar, to the envoy of
the Catholic Monarchs in 1488, pleading for
his people to be permitted to stay and continue working the land of our ancestors.
For good windsurfing equipment (per hour
12), canoeing, sailing and water-skiing (per
session 20) check out Samoa Club (%950 47 84
90; Playa de las Ventnicas) in Mojcar Playa.
MOJCAR PUEBLO
MOJCAR PLAYA
ANDALUCA
ANDALUCA
pop 5000
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