L.

C-6
NITTTR, Chennai 600 113.
SKILL DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM
1.

Sector

: Leather and Leather Goods

2.

Name and Code No. of the Trade

: Designing and Pattern Making for

Footwear
3.

Level

: II

4.

Duration in hours

: 3 months/ 12 weeks/ 480 hours That

includes pre training 1 week.

5.

Entry Qualification/ Eligibility for

admission

: 8th Standard Pass + Completed Any Level I

Course
Age: 16+ and below 35 years

6.

Employment opportunities

Wage employment as- Designers & Pattern Developers

- Supervisors in Footwear Design Units
Self employment in Footwear Pattern
Making

7.

Job/ Trade Profile

1. Perform manual pattern cutting

2. Design and develop given footwear
models with required parameters
3. Perform pattern corrections for customer
requirements.

Page 1 of 18

8.

Modules of Study and Time allocation :

Trade:
Time (in Hours)
Theory
Practical
Total
1.
2
3
4.
5

Basic training in Footwear

Fabrication

10

36

20

24

48

60

200

260

52

60

10

30

40

Total
104

376

480

Introduction to Design Methods,

Tools & Practice
Practice on Mean Forme and
Standard Extraction
12
Practice on various types of Shoe
Pattern Development
60
Practice on Design exploration and
stylisation of footwear
Consolidation and Evaluation

9.

26

Content details of each module

10. Guidelines for assessment and

certification

: Refer Appendix 1
: (i) Mode of Assessment
(A) Trade Test (Practical Exam) Weightage 70%
(B) Written Test Weightage 15%
(C) Viva (oral exam) Weightage 15%
(ii) In conducting the trade test & viva
an industrial expert should be
involved.
(iii) No. of Trade Tests 3
1) Development of Mean formeWeightage 30%
2) Pattern construction Weightage
30%
3) Finishing and marking quality points
for closing operations Weightage
10%

Page 2 of 18

(iv) No. of Written tests 2

(Weightage for each test 7.5%)
(v) No. of viva 2
(Weightage for each viva 7.5%)
11. Resource requirements

The Training Programme has to be conducted in a set up which has a

Footwear Closing Unit in the Campus.
The following additional resources will be required for training a batch of 20 trainees.
LIST OF MACHINES
TOOLS & ACCESSORIES
S.No.

Item

Quantity

Stainless Steel (S.S) Scale 1

25 nos.

2.

S.S.Scale 1/2

25 nos.

3.

Set Squares

25 sets

4.

Protractors

25 nos.

5.

French curve sets

25 sets

6.

Zig zag scissors (Medium) for pattern

cutting

5 nos.

7.

Cutting mat 2 x 1 (Artline Brand)

25 nos.

8.

Pattern Cutter knife (NT Brand)

25 nos.

9.

H.S.S. hacksaw blade1x1/2

25 nos.

10.

Knife holder

25 nos.

11.

Thread trimmer

25nos.

12.

Bone folders

25 nos.

13.

Crepe Adhesive Tapes 2 inches width

25 nos.

14.

Adjustable Spring Divider (Medium)

25 nos.

15.

Shoe sizing tape (Artline)

25 nos.

16.

Solid Block shoe last Gents size

8/Ladies Size 4

22 Nos. each

17.

Chappal last Gents size 8 /Ladies size

22 Nos. each

Page 3 of 18

S.No.

Item

Quantity

4
18.

Pencil (HB & 2H)

19.

Eraser

20.

Microtip Lead Pencil with spare leads

25 nos.

21.

Ball Point Pen

25 nos.

22.

6 Color Sketch Pen Set

25 nos.

23.

Prick Marker

25 nos.

24.

Silver Reefle

25 Nos.

25.

Moccasin Needle

25 nos.

26.

100 nos. each

100 nos.

Shoe Last (Plastic)

100 pairs

Solid block type

-- 60 pairs for gents last in

Size 8 (3 styles with 20
pairs of each)
-- 40 pairs for ladies last in
Size 5 (2 Styles with 20
pairs each)

Slidometric hinge type

Scoop last

Telescopic last

-- 2 pairs of last in

Last with heel plate

Last with half plate

Last with full plate

each
style of Size 8

FURNITURE
S.No.
1.

Item
Wooden tables for writing purpose cum
pattern cutting (Size 5 X 4)

2.

Steel Revolving Stools with adjustable height

3.

Storage bins (100 litres)

Quantity
5
20 nos.
5

Page 4 of 18

S.No.

Item

Quantity

4.

Instructor table (Size 4 X 2 ) with racks

5.

Instructor chair

6.

Class room white boards (Size 6 x 4)

Pigeon hole cupboards for students

7.

(Almirah size) (6 divisions with lock facility)

8.
9.

Steel Almirah for raw material storage

Steel racks (Mesh type) for last storage

(Almirah size) (6 divisions)

CONSUMABLES
S.No.

Item

Quantity

1.

Upper Leather (Different colors and finishes)

100 sq.feet

2.

Lining Leather

100 sq.feet

4.

Pattern Sheets

300

5.

Moccasin thread

6.

A4 size Clothlined Covers

7.

Cello Tape 1

3.

8.

White board markers

9.

Dusters

5 cones
1000 nos.
25 nos.

50 nos.
5 nos.

GRINDERIES
S.No.
1.

Item
Bench grinding machine 1 HP

Quantity
1 no.

2.

Punch sets No. 000 to 5 mm

10 nos.

3.

Oil stone

25 nos.

4.

Decorative punch set

10 nos.

Page 5 of 18

SPACE REQUIREMENT
S.No.
1.

Item
Training hall

Size
4000 sft

BOOKS/ INSTRUCTIONAL RESOURCES

1. S.S. Dutta, (1980) Introduction to the Principle of leather Manufacture
Kolkatta.- Indian Leather Technologist Association.
2. S.S.Dutta, (1980) Physical Testing Of Leather Kolkatta.- Indian Leather
Technologist Association.
3. R.G.Miller, (1989) Manual of shoe making England-Clarks ltd.
4. Somenath Ganguly, (2005), Comprehensive Footwear TechnologyKolkatta.Indian Leather Technologist Association.
5. B.Venkatappaiah, (1997), Introduction to modern footwear technology
Chennai. -GOTETI GRAPHICS
6. J.H.Thornton, (1970), Text book of footwear manufacture London. -National
Trade Press Ltd.
7. NL, Footwear Materials and process Technology, Newzealand-Leather and
Shoe research Association.
8. Gillibrand ,J.(1969) Coated fabrics and shoe industry, J of BBSI
9. Ganga Radakrishnan,(1993) Polymers in Footwear Manufacture. Publication of
Indian Leather,,Chennai.
10.U.S Paul, Literature on Shoe Lasts, M/S Foot Form.
11.G.A Charistie (1973)Simplified Lasting Systems.J.BBSI.
12.Steve cross. (1995) Heat setting in Modern Shoe factories SATRA.
13.Venkatappaiah.B.(1994) Adhesives in Shoe Manufacture. Publication of CLRI
Chennai.
14. Venkatappaiah.B.(1993) Shoe Finishes. Publication of CLRI Chennai.
15. Manual (1973)Simplified lasting system-String lastingJ.BBSI.
16. Mark Southam (1994)Force and String lasting SATRA.U K
17. Aki Choklat, (2009), Shoe Design Italy
18. Manual on Shoe Design by CLRI Publication (2004)

Page 6 of 18

12. Any other information/ guidelines : 1. Factory visits to at least three factories
for implementation
manufacturing the following should be
arranged:
a) Gents footwear
b) Ladies footwear
c) Open type footwear
2. Focus should be on providing adequate
practice for developing the skill, teaching
related theory to the required extent.

Page 7 of 18

Appendix I
Module - 1
1. Title of the Module

: Basic training in Footwear Fabrication

2. Module Competencies

: On completion of the Module the trainee will be

able to:
(1) Identify the different styles of footwear
(2) Select the appropriate last for a given job
(3) Understand the sequence of operations of
footwear making
(4) Understand the basic constructions of
footwear

3. Knowledge components (Theory)

: Basic Styles in Footwear

-

Ladies Court Shoe

Oxford,
Derby,
Slip on
Moccasin
Boots
Open type footwear

Last Parameters

Classification of Lasts:
- Solid block
- Hinge
- Scoop
- Telescopic

Last specifications:
- Length of Last,
- Fitting Girth,
- Instep Girth,
- Heel Girth,
- Ankle Girth

Sequence of Operations
- Designing
- Pattern making
- Cutting
- Pre-closing
Page 8 of 18

Closing
Lasting
Bottoming and Finishing

Methods of Constructions
- Cemented
- Sewn
- Welted
- Moulded
4. Practical Skills

: Practice in
- Cutting
- Splitting
- Skiving
- Folding

5. Instructional Hours
Theory

:
: 10 hours

Practical

: 26 hours

6. Performance criteria for assessment :

7. Reference materials

(i) Identify the given style of Footwear

(ii) Select the appropriate last for the given job
(iii) Identify the method of construction for a
given style of footwear

: 1. S.S. Dutta, (1980) 2. Introduction to the

Principle of leather Manufacture Kolkatta.Indian Leather Technologist Association.
2. B.Venkatappaiah, (1997), Introduction to
modern footwear technology Chennai.
-GOTETI GRAPHICS.
3. Aki Choklat (2009) Shoe Design Italy
4. Manual on Shoe
Publication (2004)

Design

5. R.G.Miller, (1989)
Manual
making England-Clarks ltd.

by

CLRI

of

shoe

6. J.H.Thornton, (1970), Text book of

footwear manufacture London. -National
Trade Press Ltd.
7. NL,

Footwear

Materials

and

process

Page 9 of 18

Technology, Newzealand-Leather and Shoe

research Association.
8. Manual (1973)Simplified lasting systemString lastingJ.BBSI.
9. Mark Southam (1994)Force and String
lasting SATRA.U K

Page 10 of 18

Appendix II
Module - 2
1. Title of the Module

: Introduction to Design Methods, Tools

& Practice
2. Module Competencies

: On completion of the Module the trainee will be

able to:
(1) Understand the Designing methods and
procedures
(2) Identify and apply the design tools
(3) Practice various design methods as per
the style of footwear

3. Knowledge components (Theory)

: Designing methods
- Paper
- Masking tape
- Vacuum forming
- CAD
Designing procedures
- Design
- Mean Forme
- Standard making
- Net patterns
- Working patterns
- Grading
Tools
-

4. Practical Skills

Designing Tools
Pattern making Tools
Grading Tools

: Practice on
Various designing methods
- Paper
- Masking tape
- Vacuum forming
Identification and Usage of following Tools
- Designing Tools
- Pattern making Tools
- Grading Tools

Page 11 of 18

5. Instructional Hours
Theory
Practical

:
: 4 hours
: 20 hours

6. Performance criteria for assessment :

(i) Design the style of footwear by using
appropriate method
(ii)Select and use the appropriate designing
tools for a given job
7. Reference materials

: 1. B.Venkatappaiah, (1997), Introduction to

modern footwear technology Chennai.
-GOTETI GRAPHICS.
2. U.S Paul, Literature on Shoe Lasts, M/S Foot
Form.
3.G.A Charistie
(1973)Simplified
Lasting
Systems.J.BBSI.
4. Aki Choklat (2009) Shoe Design Italy
5. Manual on Shoe
Publication (2004)

Design

by

CLRI

6. R.G.Miller, (1989) Manual of shoe making

England-Clarks ltd.
7. J.H.Thornton, (1970), Text book
of
footwear manufacture London. -National
Trade Press Ltd.
8. NL, Footwear Materials and process
Technology, Newzealand-Leather and Shoe
research Association.
9. Manual (1973)Simplified lasting systemString lastingJ.BBSI.
10.Mark Southam (1994)Force and String
lasting SATRA.U K

Page 12 of 18

Appendix III
Module - 3
1. Title of the Module

: Practice on Mean Forme and Standard

Extraction
2. Module Competencies

: On completion of the Module the trainee will be

able to:
(1) Perform Mean Forme Extraction using
- Paper
- Masking tape
- Vacuum forming
(2) Perform Standard Extraction for the 7
basic styles

3. Knowledge components (Theory)

: Stages of Mean Forme extractions

- Masking of last
- Marking on last
o Centre points/ line
o Girth points
o Vamp point
o Back Tack Height (BTH)
o Instep point
- Making of inside/ outside / bottom
(insole) forms
- Extraction of mean forme
Stages of Standard extractions
- Style lines of 7 basic types
- Drawing of style lines on the mean
forme
- Making slots/ notches on the style
lines
- Adding of lasting margins and
allowances

4. Practical Skills

: Practice in Mean Forme extractions

- Masking of last
- Marking on last
o Centre points/ line
o Girth points
o Vamp point
Page 13 of 18

o Back Tack Height (BTH)

o Instep point
Making of inside/ outside / bottom
(insole) forms
Extraction of mean forme

Practice in Standard extractions

- Drawing of style lines on the mean
forme
- Making slots/ notches on the style
lines
- Adding of lasting margins and
allowances
- Extraction of upper and lining
standards
5. Instructional Hours
Theory
Practical

:
: 12 hours
: 48 hours

6. Performance criteria for assessment :

(i) Accuracy in extraction of mean forme,
upper and lining standards
(ii) Speed in extraction of mean forme, upper
and lining standards
7. Reference materials

: 1. B.Venkatappaiah, (1997), Introduction to

modern footwear technology Chennai.
-GOTETI GRAPHICS.
2. Aki Choklat (2009) Shoe Design Italy
3. Manual on Shoe
Publication (2004)

Design

by

CLRI

4. R.G.Miller, (1989) Manual of shoe making

England-Clarks ltd.
5. Somenath
Ganguly,
Comprehensive
TechnologyKolkatta.Indian
Technologist Association.

(2005),
Footwear
Leather

Page 14 of 18

Appendix IV
Module - 4
1. Title of the Module

: Practice on various types of Shoe

Pattern Development
2. Module Competencies

: On completion of the Module the trainee will be

able to:
(1) Perform Pattern making for the basic 7
styles
(2) Understand the various footwear
international sizing systems and
conversions
(3) Perform Pattern Grading for the basic
styles

3. Knowledge components (Theory)

: Components of the basic styles of

footwear
- Upper components
- Lining components
- Stiffener components
- Reinforcements
Sizing systems
- English
- French (Continental)
- American
- Mondo Point
Grading methods
- Manual grading
- Machine grading
- CAD grading

4. Practical Skills

: Practice in Pattern making of basic styles

- Net & Working patterns of upper
components
- Net & Working patterns of lining
components
- Insole patterns
- Stiffener patterns
- Reinforcement patterns

Page 15 of 18

 Practice in Pattern Grading of 7 basic

styles
- Manual grading
- Machine grading
5. Instructional Hours
Theory
Practical

:
: 60 hours
: 200 hours

6. Performance criteria for assessment :

7. Reference materials

(i) Accuracy in extraction of patterns from

upper and lining standard
(ii) Speed in extraction of patterns from upper
and lining standard
(iii) Accuracy in pattern grading
(iv) Speed in pattern grading

: 1. B.Venkatappaiah, (1997), Introduction to

modern footwear technology Chennai.
-GOTETI GRAPHICS.
2. Aki Choklat (2009) Shoe Design Italy
3. Manual on Shoe
Publication (2004)

Design

by

CLRI

4. R.G.Miller, (1989)
Manual
making England-Clarks ltd.

of

shoe

5. Somenath
Ganguly,
Comprehensive
TechnologyKolkatta.Indian
Technologist Association.

(2005),
Footwear
Leather

Page 16 of 18

Appendix V
Module - 5
1. Title of the Module

: Practice on Design exploration and

stylisation of footwear
2. Module Competencies

: On completion of the Module the trainee will be

able to:
(1) Develop improvised designs of footwear
(2) Understand the elements of design
exploration
(3) Develop new styles as per the customer
needs

3. Knowledge components (Theory)

: Elements of Design
- Form
- Shape
- Line
- Texture
- Color
Various forms and shapes of footwear
components
- Toe shapes
- Heel shapes
- Soles
Different types of Accessories
- Eyelets
- Laces
- Trims
- Surface embellishments

4. Practical Skills

: Practice in sketching the variations of basic

designs
Practice on surface embellishments

5. Instructional Hours
Theory
Practical

:
: 8 hours
: 52 hours

Page 17 of 18

6. Performance criteria for assessment :

7. Reference materials

1. Degree of match of the new style with the

specifications provided.
2. Aesthetic appeal of the new design or
style.
3. Extent of exploration or novelty

: 1. To be given by Mr. Aravendan Sir

Page 18 of 18