In this article we are using a brand new 200cc engine

casing, mainly when you buy these from suppliers they

come just about totally bare, if you need to strip your
engine, we will get round to an article on this, but for
now you will have to read everything backwards to
strip it!!

Some of the casting marks can still be found on the new

engine cases, and even if you are using your one that
you have just stripped, the first job will be to clean and
inspect everything. Jizer, Gunk or some people even
have their casings bead or vapour blasted, but what ever
you choose, the casings are pretty soft alloy, don't get
them sand blasted or similar as you will ruin them.
Acid dipping has also been know to be done, but this
can affect the casting, be careful.

Again finally checking all stub holes, a tap is being

used here just to clean the thread

Points of wear on the casings are stud holes, where the

mag housing goes in, bearing and crank housings, and
check where the end plate bolts go in on the outside.
The seat of the endplate and in particular the
studs/holes need careful inspection. With all stud holes
repaired, to do this time inserts are best, Wurth do make
some very good ones, but they are expensive!

OK ready to start getting dirty? First of all, I always try

to work as cleanly as possible, sure you will get dirty
hands, but wash them often and carry on. Engine
mounts are to be fitted first, for this we need heat, and a
couple of suitable hammers. You can of course by a
tool to fits these. Heat the casings up where the mounts
go in.

The method I use when not using the special tool is to

support the back of the casing with a large pound
hammer, copper grease the mountings to help them
slide in, then from the front knock the mountings in.
Take note on the large mounts there are three holes in
them, these holes should be pointing forwards.

Now we have the mounts in, we are fitting the engine to

a special tool, the engine case holder just to make our
life easier when moving the casing around, again this is
not needed but helps!

Here we are starting with the drive side bearing set up,
shown are the parts needed to fit the bearing. Good
quality grease, bearing, gasket, oil seal and plate, plus
four retaining bolts.

There are three methods to fit the drive side bearing,

heat the casing by means of blow torch or similar,
freeze the bearing as it makes it shrink, or buy a bearing
press tool. There are manufacturers of tools specifically
for Lambretta, if your going to make a habit of doing
these jobs they are well worth the expense. Using one
of these methods, press the bearing into the engine
casing, it does not matter which way round it goes, but
it is important that it is pressed all the way home. You
can check this by looking at it through the chain side of
the casing, it should fit right up tight against its
housing.

Once the bearing is pressed home, smear the balls of

the bearings with high melting point grease,

The round gasket is then fitted, some gaskets will not

fit this housing perfectly, do not worry, just simply and
carefully push the gasket edges into the housing with a
flat screwdriver, just be careful when doing this.

Next we need to fit the oil seal to the plate, the picture
here shows the correct way round it goes. The spring
around the oil seal should face the the crank when it is
finally assembled. Four new screws are used, it's
always best to use new ones here as the old ones almost
certainly will be damaged when removing them. New
ones from most dealers will now be supplied as high
tensile Allen key headed bolts, it is much easier to
secure and do this type of screw. Lock-tite is always
sensible on these bolts,

The plate is diagonally torque'd, this makes sure the

plate sits down evenly, keep going around them until
you are sure all four bolts are secured as tight as they
can be, there is no torque setting for these bolts, but you
should tighten them fully until they will turn no further.

With this picture you can see that the oil plate is fitted
correctly, it is vital that the plate is secured fully home
and is flush as in the picture. If the plate sits proud and
is not secured correctly, your crank will rub against it
and not turn correctly, damage will occur.

Place the mag or stator housing so that the inner part

faces upwards. Now as with the drive side bearing you
need to either heat the housing, keep the heat at the top
of the housing. When heated, fit new seal carefully as
the housing is hot! with spring facing towards you (it
will end up facing into the crank when you have
finished) Fit the L shaped cup washer next.

Now we need to fit the bearing, it comes in two halves,

put the inner to one side as this must be fitted to the
crankshaft. Either with your bearing tool or by using a
socket or similar, make sure that what you use puts the
pressure on the outer track, knock the bearing in
position. Make sure it goes in square, tap it fully home.
Li SX and TV models, if you are using the original
size of bearing (NU205) fit the spacer washer. GP
models and machines using a GP crank with the
larger bearing (NU2205) do not have or use this
spacer.
With the bearing in position, fit the last larger oil seal,
again with the spring side facing you, towards the crank
when assembled. A large circlips holds everything in
place. Lightly packe the inner bearing with your grease
as no oil gets here to lubricate it and it relies on this
grease. With every thing finished your mag housing
should look like this!
Preparing the new crank, if you are not re-fitting your
old crank you will need to fit the mag side bearing
inner track. The easiest way to do this is again heat the
inner track. It will be easier the hotter you get the inner
track, glowing red is OK, when it is suitable heated use
your pliers to slip the track over the crank shaft. When
you have this done, tap home around the whole inner
track to make sure it is seated properly. Again, an
special tool can be purchased to fit and remove the
inner track, well worth it if you to do this kind of job
often.

Fitting the crank, smear a little grease on the inner edge

of the drive side oil seal, this helps the crank through,
then by passing the shorter shaft through first, it is
easier to get the crank at BDC, so the crank is at it's
shortest. First smear a little grease on the drive side
inner seal that we fitted earlier, a very slight coating is
all that is needed. This helps the crank pass through it,
less chance to nip the edge of the seal.

The crank should be pushed as far as possible by hand,

rotating the crank slightly as you go, again to make sure
you do not snag the edges of the oil seal.

Here we are using a special tool to pull the crank

through, from the chain side position the space central
on the bearing.

The front sprocket bolt is used to pull the crank through

into position. If you do not have this special tool, fit the
flywheel nut on the end of the crank, this stops you
from damaging the thread on the crank, and using a
rubber or nylon hammer, tap home the crank, again
twisting as you go.

Here we can see again, the use of the tool to pull the
crank through, we are also using a con rod holding tool
to position the crank

Note how the crank is fully home now, flush to the

drive side plate, but still turning freely.

Before you fit the mag housing that we have built, the
first step is the gasket for the mag flange, this will only
fit one way, make sure all the holes line up with the
gasket

Fit the mag housing assembly, this should be a pretty

good fit, wiggle it into position, if its a little tight, a
rubber hammer hit evenly around the edges will tap it
home. If you are using your original one, it will need
cleaning to make it fit easier. Once the mag housing is
just about home, three nuts on the studs secure this.
Again in a diagonal pattern tighten this fully home.
Finally check the crank still turns freely.

Now you have the mag fitted, we can turn our

attentions to the front sprocket assembly

The dished washer goes on first, dished side down.

The drive sleeve has splines on it, in no special way

other than to match these splines with the splines on the
crank shaft, fit the sleeve.

The front sprocket goes next, the half moon part of it

faces out towards you.

Next the bottom spring collar goes on, but before you
fit the spring, place the top collar on.

In this picture you will see, where the oil way hole is on
the drive sleeve, we have used a felt pen to make a
mark directly opposite this. This will help us line every
thing up when we come to secure it all down. Take this
top sleeve back off now you have made this mark

Fit the spring on next, and put back on the top collar,
lining up the pen mark you made with the whole as best
you can. Tighten the whole assembly down now, a note
should be made that we still have our conrod holding
tool in position to secure everything. If you do not do
this it will be impossible to fully tighten the front
sprocket bolt. Once you are happy that every thing is
aligned with your marks, tighten home fully the front
sprocket bolt. When complete it is important you
double check every thing is correct by hitting the front
sprocket assembly with a hammer, if it sounds solid
every thing is correct, if it sounds hollow, take it off
and start again!

Fitting of the new barrel studs is easily done by the

double nut method. By this we mean screw one of the
head nuts on to the stud, then screw another directly
after it, lock them together with two spanners. Now
using one spanner, if you have locked the nuts together
tightly simply screw the bolts down with the spanner.
Again with two spanners un lock these nuts and move
on to the next stud

Carry on fitting and four studs, ideally we are looking

to get them all the same height as far as they will go in.
Fit your cylinder base gasket now, it will only line up
and fit properly one way round.Top Tip Vespa PX
cylinder studs are ideal to use as they are slightly longer
and will make sure you get enough thread of the stud
into the engine casing.

Although we have fitted the cylinder and piston here,

we are showing you this picture now for you to note the
correct way round the piston goes, the arrows of the
piston face to the exhaust port. The easiest way to fit
the top end is to fit the piston and rings into the cylinder
first. Fits both or all three rings (depending on your
make of piston) on to your piston, making note as the
rings have a cut out which fit into the peg on the piston
one way only.

Compress the rings onto the piston while sliding into

the barrel from the bottom, i.e. the top of the piston
goes into the bottom of the barrel. Slide the piston up
one ring at a time, each time making sure the ring has
seated properly into the bore of the cylinder.

Slide the barrel on to the studs as in the picture above.

Fit the small end bearing into the crank, it is a good
idea to dip this in a little light oil or two stroke oil to aid
in the first start up. Line the conrod and piston up so
you can fit the gudgeon pin and tap through lightly with
a rubber hammer. Fit both piston circlips, make sure
they are fitted correctly by turning them in their
grooves. If they do not turn easily or pop out, they were
not seated correctly, try again.

slide the barrel fully down the studs, if you are using a
dial gauge to set top dead centre (TDC) now is the time
to skip to the stator and flywheel section so you can
mark TDC.

The cylinder head and parts needed to fit, notice the

one nut longer then any other, this is used to secure the
cylinder head cowl. If you are using your old cylinder
head, it will need to be flatted. To do this, simply use a
piece of glass and sticky back sand paper, grinding disc
is ideal. rotate the head within your hands using a
twisting movement 1/4 of a turn for ten times. Carry
one after each ten twists by turning the head 90 degrees
and doing again, you should end up doing this four
times.

First fit your head gasket, then place your head on top
of this. The head should only fit on the studs one way,
the spark plug hole should be facing the top left hand
side.

Again in this picture take note of the long nut that

excepts the cylinder cowl bolt, because we have the
engine on a stand, it is upside down, so yours again
with the engine the correct way up should be on the
bottom left hand stud as you look directly at it.

Finally in a diagonal pattern, it is important you torque

these nuts down, 20lbs is ideal, the Lambretta Home
Workshops manual does state 15, but trust us 20 is
better.

Carrying on at the top end, we are now going to fit our

electric's. Here we are fitting an electronic kit, but
roughly speaking the points and condenser stator are
fitted in the same way.

The electronic stator, the main difference is the "black

box" pick up, it is at the top of the stator with a white
line on it. If you are using the points/condenser type
stator, you will of course need to almost certainly fit
new points and condenser, check the workshop section
for this.

Thread the wiring from the stator through the whole at

the top, taking note of the gap on the stator to allow the
wires to sit into when fitted. Make sure you do not snag
the wires when fitted, there is a plate to hold down the
wiring that should be fitted to the top nut/bolt when
securing the stator

I always recommend fitting the stator in a central

position on the oval holes of the stator plate, unless of
course you have marked the stator and housing before
removal, this allows you to turn the stator either way to
adjust the timing if needed. Just nip the nuts/bolts at
this stage as you will almost certainly will need to
move the stator around.
To secure the wiring, a gasket, two plates and a rubber
grommet are used. The plates have a tapered side to
them, after you have fitted the gasket to the engine
casing, the first plate (they are the same) goes with the
highest side in towards the engine, then the grommet,
then the last plate with the raised part facing out.
Secure the plates with two bolts, original ones were a
screwdriver fit ment ones, for each of removal/fitting in
the future you can use either Allen headed or spanner
headed bolts.

Finally before you fit the flywheel, just make sure none
of the wiring is to high and will catch on the flywheel.

Next put the flywheel on, and tighten the flywheel nut,
note it has left hand thread, it does not need to be
particularly tight at this stage, just nip it up.

We are gowing to need to find TDC (Top Dead Centre)

this is the point when the piston is in its highest point in
its travel, up to the head. We are looking for when the
piston will not go any further up, but not starting its
travel downwards either. If you have a play, you will
find a small point where the piston no longer moves.
We are using a TDC tool, the outer part of it is used
like a spark plug, simply screw it into the plug hole. It
then has an inner rod, that you can rest on the top of the
piston to give you better sight of its travel.

When you have found TDC, there is an arrow on the

flywheel, we need to make a mark on the outer ring of
the mag housing directly opposite this arrow, Using a
bladed screwdriver and hammer, a gentle tap will be
enough to cut a groove in the alloy. Take note again
because of the holding tool our engine is upside down

Now using our dial gauge, we need to measure the

firing point. Take the flywheel back off, line the arrow
on the dial gauge, it is in position zero degrees, with the
mark you made on the mag housing with your screw
driver. To do this there is a hole in the centre of the
gauge, place this over the shaft of the crank, and lightly
fit the nut back on with your hand, this insure more
accuracy.

Timing is before TDC on all models, so to mark the

firing point you will need to go back towards the engine
mount from the zero position. Timing for models is 23
degrees Li/TV/SX and 21 degrees for GP. The only
other setting known at this time is the new Imola kits,
which need to be set at 27 degrees. Again it is a good
idea to make a second mark on the mag housing now
with your hammer & screwdriver to show the firing
point. This will save you if you need to set the timing
up again having to go through this all the time.
Now this is where the points and electronic set ups
differ. First I'll cover electronic, on the black box on the
stator picture we showed earlier, we mentioned the
white line. This white line needs to line up with two
very small marks situated either side of a flywheel
window, they are directly opposite each other in the
same window.

What we need to do its make sure when the arrow of

the flywheel is lined up with the mark you made for
your firing point on the mag, that the two lines on the
flywheel window are in a perfect line with the white
line of the pick up box.

If you cannot get them to all align, this is when you

need to move the stator around on its oval holes to
achieve this position. When you have done so, timing is
set.

To set a points system, follow the electronic

instructions except. For this I use a battery and bulb &
holder, attached one side of the bulb to an earth, the
other to the battery, of which the other side of the
battery wire goes to the green coming from the stator.
Instead of lining the lines up, what we are looking for
here is when you turn the flywheel to the firing mark,
the bulb will become brighter when it reaches this mark
exactly.
Too soon or to late, you will need to either adjust the points on the screw, this is done by
undoing the screw, turning the bottom plate of the points slightly, and nip back up and try
again. If you cannot get the light to brighten by adjusting the points base, again moving the
stator on the oval holes and try again adjusting the points further.

When you have finally set the timing, make sure the
stator plate retaining bolts or nuts are tightened, again
using a torque wrench fit the flywheel and torque to
50lbs.

Job done, your top end is now complete, only thing left
to do is fit the spark plug and cowlings. I always leave
the cowlings until it is in the frame and every thing has
been checked and the scooter is running. Just saves you
time in case you got any thing wrong!

Turning our attentions to the rear end and gearbox of

the scooter now, with the rear hub bearing and oil seal

Fit the oil seal into the bearing first, it should have the
oil seal fitted into it with the springs facing into the
crankcase.

You may need to heat the crank casing up to fit the rear
hub bearing, some people prefer to freeze the bearing
this makes it shrink. You can also of course use a
bearing fitting tool for this job. Fit the bearing/seal into
its recess in the crank case, it will only fit one way
round, and it goes in from the brake shoe end. Pack
with high melting point grease.

Here we have the parts to secure the bearing one thin

shim plate, on thick but small retaining plate and four
washers & nyloc nuts.

First slide the shim plate over the four studs, next the
smaller but thicker plate, all held down with washers
and nyloc nuts. Again do this up in a diagonal pattern,
nice and tight. We have also while we are here, fitted
the two rear brake shoe pivots, this end is now
complete bar the brake set up.

Here we see all the parts needed to fit the main shaft.
The gear selector, selector shaft and seals. Fit the gear
selector first on GP models this is one complete unit
which includes the outer arm. On earlier models the
selector arm is separate to the shaft, you just need to fit
the shaft at this stage.

The sliding dog should be fitted to the lay-shaft first, to

do this insert the selector spring in the centre of the
layshaft, and hold a ball bearing at each end of this
spring. If you look at the sliding dog at the end with the
ring on, it has two recess to make fitting this assembly
together easier. The feet of the dog should be flush with
the end of the shaft (this is first gear). -fit the shaft
through the bearing and make sure the lugs on the gear
selector wishbone locate into the sliding dog

Tap the lay-shaft home with a hide mallet. Place the

rear hub cone washer onto the lay-shaft then a suitable
distance piece (avoids messing with the rear hub). Place
the rear hub washer and nut then tighten, we will
tighten it properly later on. If you cannot find a suitable
spacer, simply fit the rear hub and toque. In both cases
this is done to set the gearbox up correctly.

With the lay shaft in position we can Finish off the

brake now, here you can see all the parts needed for the
job, your shoes, clips and operating levers and shaft.

Fit the operating cam through the hole in the engine

casing, grease this when fitting as it is important for a
good operating brake.

Next fit the brake arm, notice the position it is in, it

needs to be some where like this for the brake to
operate correclty when you connect the cables up. The
arm is held on to the shaft by a circlip.

We are now ready to fit the brake shoes, you will find it
much easier to fit the return spring to the two brake
shoes first, expand the shoes or the operating cam, and
then place the holes of the shoes bystretchingg them
apart, on to the pegs you fitted earlier.

Finally fit the retaining W clip, sometimes you will be

supplied or have two circlips with plates, either way is
fine, and it does not matter which method you use.

Job done, brake parts finished and fitted, if you had

dirty hands while fitting brake parts, naughty you, just
make sure all braking surfaces are clean and free of
grease.

The "Xmas" tree gearcluster, separate gears, shims and

bearings are now going to be fitted to make up the
gearbox

Just near the selector arm, in the casing is a housing for

the bottom Xmas tree gear cluster, in here goes the
needle roller bearing.

On the bottom of the cluster is fitted a shim, the bottom

is the widest part.

First into the casing goes the cluster, making sure the
shim is still in position when fitted, simply pop the
cluster into the needle roller,

On the top of the mainshaft, fit the top shim, it fits as in

the picture just lay it on.

Next pop on the end plate roller bearing for the

mainshaft, again just pop it in position

The first gear to go in is forth, this is the smallest gear

of all. If you look at the gears carefully, second third
and forth have a boss on them, a slightly raised part on
one side. This is important as they go in a certain way.
Forth gear fits with its highest boss towards you.

After you are happy with forth gear being put in, make
sure that forth is level with its counter part gear on the
cluster. Next in is third, again check the highest boss,
this time the boss faces towards the rear hub. Again
check and make sure the gears line up. If they do not,
try another sized shim at this under the cluster at this
stage

Second gear now goes in, the same way round as third
gear, the highest boss faces in towards the rear hub.
Again check the alignment as you go.

Notice first gear, you will see on the top face some
teeth, these are for the kick-start to mate to when
starting, again only fit this way round!

Fit the mainshaft shim now, if you are using a totally

new gearbox, I would suggest a few shims, 2.0 2.2 &
2.4 should be fine. If you are using your original
gearbox and casing, you should be OK with your old
shim. If you are using new, fit the 2.2 first and them
when can measure up.

Instead of the original stud and nut arrangment, it is

much better to use high tensile steel bolts too secure the
endplate. Make sur eyou get these from a Lambretta
dealer as they need to be the correct length. Loctite is
also used here to secure these bolts.

Remember the picture above and the shim, we will

need it to check endplate float later on. With the new
bearing fitted into the endplate, it is held in there by a
circlip, fit the end plate, making sure if goes on nice
and square. You will need to wiggle it to get the two
shafts and bearings, plus all the studs and dowels to line
up. Do all the nuts up at and even rate to pull the end
plate down evenly, continue until tight.

Fit the outer part of the clutch housing, the spider only
at this stage, we need to check every thing is tight and
secure for measuring the endplate float. Fit the clutch
holding tool to secure the mainshaft so it will not turn
and into this just place the clutch spider on its splines,

Again when we fitted the brakes, make sure that either

you have a spacer or the rear hub fitted and torque to
120lbs so we can start measuring.

Now we are ready to measure end plate float. This is

done by measuring the gap between the shim on first
gear to the inner face of the end plate. The gap we are
looking for is between 0.07mm to 0.30mm, the use of
thicker or thinner shims adjusts this gap.

Now when you are happy with gearbox operation you

can continue to fit the rest of the end plate nuts or bolts.
Secure evenly and nice and tight.

Fit the mainshaft shim washer, the Home Workshop

Manual mentions that these shims align the chain, true
they do, but unless you have the correct workshop tool
for doing this dont worry as if you try to alter the
measurments and you get it wrong, you will do more
damage then good.

Parts needed to fit the chain, rear sprocket, chian and

guides, clutch housing bush or bearing, and the clutch
nut and tab washer

The chain guides, there are now many types of new top
chain adjusters available, certainly on any tuned
Lambretta, but even for the cost of them they are a
good idea to use instead of the factory "normal" type. a)
they last longer & b) these types are much less prone to
breakages, hence aiding reliabilty.

Slip the chain around the rear sprocket, your front one
will already have been fitted

Roughly position the bottom chain guide in place (and

the top one if you are using the original stlye), lay the
chain around the front sprocket with one hand while
holding the rear sprocket with the chain around it in the
other.

On some types of chain tensioner a stud is used to fix

the guides, secure the bottom one first which does not
mover, then the top over that.

The top tensioner, is used to take up the slack in the

chain, ideally your chain will not require too much
adjustment, but to get the correct adjustment, push
upwards on the adjuster to tension the chain. Nip the
bolts up, then between the front sprocket and the
tensioner, wiggle the chain up and down, you should
have 1/2" play at most. Tighten fully the tensioner
when you are happy with this.

If you have a look at this rear sprocket you will see it is

solid. There are some that have a rivet section in them,
these are two piece rear sprockets. Again for tuned and
ideally all scooters, a solide non riveted type should be
used. The rivets are not uncommon in breaking or
allowing the two sections to come apart. Fit your center
bush or bearings now, either two needle roller bearings
or one brass bush, some prefer the brass type of bush.

Bath your clutch corks in the ST90 gearbox oil you will
use, if you fit them dry without soaking them first, you
run the risk of burning the plates out from the word go!

Fit the clutch spider into the rear sprocket, in just goes
in on the bearings/bush. Notice the legs of the spider,
the top edge is like a castle effect, then after this the
shafts of the spider should be smooth, if yours has ruts
or lumps it is worn, either file flat again or replace.

A tab waser locates on any one of the pins with it's

eylet, the clutch nut can then be tightened down by
hand.

Fit the clutch holding tool, do not try to use

screwdrivers or anything else to trap or jam this,
damage will occur, these tools are very cheap and very
neccesary.

Using the best socket and ratchet you have, simply get
this nut as tight as you can, there is no torque setting
other than really tight! Use a screwdriver and hammer
to knock over one edge of the tab washer onto the nut,
this is done to stop the nut comming un done.

The clutch springs, and here we are using a centre

spring as well due to the tuned engine. When checking
your clutch springs, you should stand all five up, they
need to be all the same height.

To stop the springs from falling, especially if the engine

is still in the scooter, simply dab one end of the spring
in grease before fitting.

By dabing the grease on one end of the spring, this can

now be placed in its recess in the ctutch spider, it will
help to keep the spring in position

Carry on until all five are in place

Fit the clutch basket, again it has recess in it for the

springs to sit in, plus the legs of the basket will need to
align with the legs of the clutch spider. Onto this goes a
clutch cork

After the first cork, put a steel plate on this, then cork
etc

Carry on until the last part which is the steel top plate,
this has a chamfered edge on it and is thiker then the
other plates. GP top plates differ to all other models by
being thicker.

Now we need to use the clutch compressor to compress

the clutch basket and springs. .

When this is done you can slide the corks and plates
down into the housing, they should slide down pretty
freely with no interferance.

Continue to compress so that the top plate is under the

grove in the leg of the clutch spider. Now you can fit
the clutch retaining circlip, where the two ends meet
they should be placed so that both ends fit inside a leg.

All that remains now is to fit the chaincase side gasket,

if you have a non GP/DL machine make sure the top
clutch thimble is in position.

To assmeble the kickstart mechanism, the shaft requires

a bottom plate, a spring then the kick-start piston. In the
side is a hole for the locating/locking pin. When this is
assmebled place the whole shaft through the chain
casing. Fit the return spring, look carefully there are
holes in the casing and shaft for each end to go. For GP
machines only, fit the brass clutch operating bush in its
housing.

Fit the clutch operating arm as shown, complete with

return spring.

On the outside of the kickstart shaft fit the kick-start

shim and retaining circlip.

Using a set of mole grips securly fixed to the kickstart

shaft, you can now place the chaincase side on the
engine.

This is done so you can use the grips to align the

kickstart into position, as it needs to be wound back for
tension and to seat properly.

Rear hub, shims and locking kit.

First put the thin shim washer in posittion, the the rear
hub cone. The split on the cone should fit down the
raised edge of the main shaft as shown in the picture.

Finaly fit the rear hub on its splines and affix the nut. If
you engine is in the frame put the engine into first gear
and ask a friend to push down on the rear brake pedal
as hard as they can. If not do the same, but use some
thing suitable on the rear brake arm to lock the wheel.
Tighten the rear hub as hard as you possibly can. Place
the locking washer over the nut, check for alignment of
the hole for the grub screw. You can turn the locking
plate in three differnet positions, if it still does not
align, again locking the rear wheel as mentioned,
tighten until alignment takes place. Fit the allen key
grub screw and tighten.
Here we have it, one fully rebuilt engine.