Lonely Planet Publications

96

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97

THIMPHU

Thimphu
You approach Thimphu along a winding, single-lane access road, little wider than the trucks
that suddenly emerge around each curve. Each blind bend promises a glimpse of your destination; however, for most of the journey all that is revealed is another curve followed by
another. The steep hillsides are dotted with houses, some abandoned, their massive earthen
walls slowly crumbling, and the occasional white-washed temple. Suddenly the road drops to
a modern expressway on the valley floor, whisking you through paddy fields to the capital
of one of the worlds most intriguing countries.
Established as the capital in 1961, Thimphu has a youthful exuberance that constantly
challenges the countrys conservatism and proud tradition. The ever-present juxtaposition
of old and new is just one of its appealing qualities. Crimson-robed monks, Indian labourers,
gho- and kira-clad professionals and camera-wielding tourists all ply the pot-holed pavements, skirt packs of sleeping dogs, and spin the prayer wheels of Clocktower Square, and
nobody, it seems, is in a hurry. Thimphu is the worlds only capital without traffic lights. A
set was installed, but the residents complained that it was impersonal, and so gesticulating,
white-gloved police continue to direct the ever-increasing traffic. As well as being a classic
Bhutanese anachronism, it may well be the citys most photographed spectacle.
Thimphu offers the best opportunity to do your own thing. Its relaxed, friendly and pretty
informal, and is most rewarding if you can be the same.

HIGHLIGHTS
Savour the serenity of the powerful yet

Cheri Goemba

Tango Goemba

peaceful architecture of Trashi Chhoe

Dzong (p101)
Immerse yourself in the pungent, colourful,

bustling weekend market (p103) a gastronomic wonderland and gaudy artefact bazaar
Stretch your legs and climb through whisper-

ing pines to the peaceful solitude of either

Tango Goemba or Cheri Goemba (p115)
Bend your elbow at one of Thimphus

friendly bars, such as Om Bar (p112), and

meet the locals over momos and beer
Marvel at the skill and artistry of Bhutanese

National
Institute for
Zorig Chusum
Motithang

Trashi Chhoe Dzong

Weekend Market
Om Bar

youth at the National Institute for Zorig

Chusum (p104)
Spot an incongruous takin at the Motithang

Takin Preserve (p106)

ELEVATION: 2320M

POPULATION: 98,676

TELEPHONE CODE: 02

B5
C2
B3
C4

26

D6
A4

Langjo

B4
C4
C4
C3
C6
C3
C3
C3
B4
C3
B2
A4

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25

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22

16

13

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Lam

La

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Lhuendrup
Lam

See Thimphu City Map (p1023)

Khanchoe
Lam

Samar
Dzingkha

an

La

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on

en

SHOPPING
Choki Handicrafts....................33 C4
Sangay Arts & Crafts.............. 34 C4

nL
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um

C4
D1

bte

eb

A4
A4
C4

Do

SLEEPING
Amankora................................28
Motithang Hotel......................29
Rabten Apartments..................30
Shambala Executive
Apartments..........................31
Taba Resort..............................32

Ra

De

Deki
Lam

10

a
vin Lam

Se

el

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La

Lam

Chang

zin

ho

Lam
30

Nor

nri

33

Des

Pedzoe
Lam

18

34

17

i La

12

Gaden Lam

Motithang

Lam

Zilungkha

15

29

32

11

24

28

Chh

Dechhu

Belpina

B4
C5
B4

27

Samtenling

C6

Sangaygang

To
Samtenling
Palace

99

1 km
0.5 miles

Dechen La
m

Emergency

20

La

Ambulance (%112)
Fire (%110)
Police (%113)

C4
C4
C2
B4
C2

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Changangkha Lhakhang..........10
Dechen Phodrang....................11
Drubthob Goemba...................12
Folk Heritage Museum.............13
Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving
Centre................................. 14
Motithang Takin Preserve........15
National Institute for Traditional
Medicine..............................16
National Institute for Zorig
Chusum...............................17
National Library.......................18
Ney Khang Lhakhang...............19
Nose Rock Face.......................20
Royal Banquet Hall...................21
Royal Thimphu Golf Club.........22
SAARC Building.......................23
Telecom Tower........................24
Trashi Chhoe Dzong................25
Wangditse Goemba.................26
Youth Centre........................... 27

Bookshops

druknet.bt; Clocktower Sq) At the southwestern end of the

square next to Jimmy Bros Stationery, this tiny shop has a
good selection of coffee-table books and posters as well as
internet access.
DSB Books (Map pp102-3; %323123; dsb@druknet
.bt; Chang Lam) Probably Thimphus best selection of
coffee-table and other books on Buddhism, Bhutan and the
region. Particularly good for Bhutanese and Indian newspapers. On the ground floor of Jojos Shopping Complex;
enter from the lane behind Chang Lam.
Megah Books (Map pp102-3; %321063; Wogzin Lam)
Has a smaller selection that includes some dusty, hard-tofind-elsewhere books on Bhutan.
Pekhang Bookshop (Map pp102-3; %323094; Norzin
Lam) Somewhat hidden in the same building as the Luger
Cinema; carries lots of stationery supplies.

INFORMATION
Bangladesh Embassy..................1
Bhutan Telecom.........................2
Centre for Bhutan Studies..........3
DHL Office.................................4
Indian Embassy..........................5
Jigme Dorji Wangchuck National
Referral Hospital....................6
National Commission for
Cultural Affairs.......................7
RSPN Office...............................8
WWF.........................................9

INFORMATION
Thimphus bookshops carry Bhutanese and
Indian newspapers, periodicals and a selection
of books on Bhutan, Tibet and Buddhism.
Prices are quite reasonable, especially for Indian editions, which are cheaper than overseas
editions.
Book World (Map pp102-3; %323386; bookworld@

0
0

Wang Chhu

THIMPHU

Chh

City maps (Nu 100) are available in bookshops

and handicraft shops. The Department of

Survey & Land Records publishes the Thimphu City Map, which shows all the ministries,
other government offices and religious buildings. The similar, glossy Thimphu/Paro City
Map has an inset showing many of the hotels
and shops, plus a small map of Paro on the
reverse side.
Although usually well signposted, very few
locals, including taxi drivers, actually know
and use street names; landmarks and building
names will serve you better when asking for
or giving directions. To add to the confusion,
several of the street names on signposts differ
from those on city maps. For more on maps,
see p249.
You can download maps of hiking trails
around Thimphu from www.bhutan-trails.org
/index.html. For more information on these
trails see p117).

THIMPHU

ori
Th

Maps

lonelyplanet.com

Me

ORIENTATION
The road from the south (and Paro) is met by
the new expressway 11km from the Thimphu.
As it races along the valley floor it passes
below Simtokha Dzong, before entering
Thimphu CBD, marked by an elaborately
decorated petrol station. The city sprawls
north and west in the lightly wooded valley
of the Wang Chhu.
The road leading north from the petrol
station is Norzin Lam, Thimphus main drag,
which takes you through the town centre
past several major hotels and the pretty
Clocktower Sq, the citys heart. Not far north
of the square is the famous traffic circle with
the arm-waving police. From the traffic circle, Norzim Lam continues uphill past the
cinema, the Bank of Bhutan and the government handicraft emporium. At the northern
end of Norzin Lam, Desi Lam leads to the
National Library, Folk Heritage Museum,
the golf course and Trashi Chhoe Dzong.
A turn to the west back at the traffic circle
puts you on Chorten Lam, which intersects
with Doendrup Lam near the Swiss Bakery,
before heading south towards the Memorial
Chorten. The road leading east from the
traffic circle, Wogzin Lam, takes you either
to Clocktower Sq or you can continue east on
Gatoen Lam past Benez Restaurant to Chang
Lam, a northsouth thoroughfare that runs
beside and above the Changlimithang archery
ground and sports stadium.
Doebum Lam makes a loop from the Memorial Chorten above and to the west of the
CBD to the northern end of Norzin Lam,
passing the Drichu Drakey Bakery and the
sports complex on the way. Numerous smaller
streets weave their way uphill to government
offices and the posh suburb of Motithang west
of the centre.
The east and west banks of the Wang Chhu
are connected by Lungten Zampa, the bridge
at the south end of town. Chhogyel Lam runs
north beneath the bridge, past the archery
ground, sports stadium, Zangto Pelri Lhakang
and the weekend market. On the eastern bank,
Dechen Lam leads to several hotels and eventually to the monasteries at the head of the
valley. For information on getting around
the city, see p114.

lonelyplanet.com

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THIMPHU Orientation

14

Internet Access
There are a dozen or so internet cafs spread
around town, all charging Nu 50 to 70
per hour. Several hotels have rudimentary

Ring Rd

Expressway
To Chhuzom
(30km)

To
Simtokha
(3km)

THIMPHU

THIMPHU

98

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Post

THIMPHU IN
Most of the major attractions will already be included in your itinerary. Here are a few suggestions if your itinerary includes some free time in Thimphu.

24 hours
After your hotel breakfast head down to the weekend market (p103) and soak up the sights,
sounds and smells of the produce stalls before crossing the atmospheric cantilever bridge,
Kuendeyling Baazam, to the trinkets, artefacts and clothing stalls on the east bank of the Wang
Chhu. If the market isnt on, check out the Chamlimgithang Archery Ground (p105) for activity
or drop into the National Textile Museum (p105), Painting School (p104) or VAST (p105) to
watch artisans at work or find that unique souvenir. Wander back to your hotel for lunch or visit
a local momo (steamed or fried dumpling) restaurant on Norzim Lam, the famed Swiss Bakery
(p112), or the trendy Art Cafe (p112) for coffee and cake. Round off the afternoon by checking
out the numerous shopping centres (p113) for handicrafts, books, trekking equipment or Bhutans
extravagant postage stamps. As beer oclock approaches head towards one of Thimphus friendly
bars, such as Benez (p112) or the Zone (p112). After-dinner entertainment can be found in one
of the many discos or a late-night haunt such as the Om Bar (p112).

business centres with internet access, charging

considerably more.
Atsara Business Centre (Map pp102-3; City Centre
Complex, Wogzin Lam; h9am-10pm)

Book World (Map pp102-3; Clocktower Sq; h9am6pm) Comfy and fast, but only two terminals.

Cyber Caf (Map pp102-3; Chorten Lam; h9am-8pm)

Upstairs, next to Plums Caf.
Norling Cyberworld (Map pp102-3; Norling Centre,
Norzin Lam; h9am-10pm)

Laundry
Most hotels offer laundry services, but none
has in-house dry-cleaning facilities. Drycleaning takes two days at Kelly Dry Cleaners
(Map pp102-3; %326434; Centre Mall, Norzin Lam), next
to the Luger Cinema. The larger hotels have
clothes dryers and provide same-day service.
During wet weather smaller hotels may return
your laundry damp, or even the following
day. If you are on a tight schedule, ask about
the drying facilities before you hand in your
laundry.

Medical Services
Pharmacies can supply medications, including over-the-counter antibiotics, for travelrelated conditions:
City Pharmacy (Map pp102-3; %321382; City Centre
Complex, Wogzin Lam) A well-stocked pharmacy, upstairs
in the back of the complex.
India Bhutan Friendship Hospital (Map p99;
%322485; Chorten Lam)

Jigme Dorji Wangchuck National Referral Hospital (Map pp102-3; %322496, 322497; Gongphel Lam)
The best hospital in Bhutan.
Norling Medical (Map pp102-3; Norling Centre, Norzin
Lam) Opposite the Hotel Tandin.

Money

Jigme Dorje Wangchuck Public Library (Map

Most hotels can change money at government

rates, although they usually have a limited
supply of cash. A few places advertise that they
accept Amex and Visa cards but, apart from
in the handicraft shops, card transactions are
a rare event (see p250 for more information).
If youre planning to use a credit card to pay a
bill in a hotel, settle the bill between 9am and
5pm, while the authorisation office is open.
Bank of Bhutan (Map pp102-3; %322266; Norzin

pp102-3; %322814; Norzin Lam; h12.30-5.30pm

Mon-Friday, 9am-1pm Sat) This small library has a
dog-eared collection of paperback novels as well as a few
reference books.
National Library (Map p99; %322885; Pedzoe Lam;
h9.30am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) A better resource for
books about Bhutan. Though the selection of books in
English is small, this is also a worthwhile cultural sight. See
p104 for more details.

Lam; h9am-1pm Mon-Fri, to 11am Sat) The main

branch; it tends to be busy.
Bank of Bhutan (Map pp102-3; Wogzin Lam; hnoon2pm Mon, to 4pm Wed-Sat) Smaller city branch only two
blocks away from main branch.
Bhutan National Bank (Map pp102-3; %322767;
Chang Lam; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 11am Sat) In the
same building as the main post office. Money-changing is
straightforward at this branch.

Libraries

lonelyplanet.com

Many hotels and shops sell stamps. Be assured

that it is safe to simply drop cards and letters
into post boxes here.
Post office (Map pp102-3; %322381; Chang Lam;
h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) This main office
is a well-organised facility with a postcard and philatelic
shop.

Telephone
Dotted throughout the city there are public
call offices (PCOs) that have direct international dialling. You can also make cheaper
internet calls at most internet cafs (see p98).
For details on making calls see p254.

Tourist Information
You will find most of your information needs
are met by your Bhutanese tour company
and guide. There is no visitor information
centre in Thimphu, however, Englishlanguage newspapers, handicraft shops and
your hotel staff are all useful sources for upto-date, whats-on information.
In the event of a problem with your Bhutanese tour company, the Department of Tourism
(DOT; Map pp102-3; %323251; fax 323695; www.tourism
.gov.bt; Doebum Lam) can provide advice and

assistance.

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

Theres almost nothing in Thimphu to cause
concern. Extraordinary numbers of stray dogs
roam at will and bark across town at each other
all night, but earplugs solve that problem quite
easily. Beware of steep/missing/broken steps
and open drains on the pavements. Be careful crossing roads and dont trust cars to stop
when you are on a pedestrian crosswalk.

SIGHTS
Thimphus attractions are clustered to the
north of the city (where you will find the
dzong (fort-monastery), library, painting
school and folk museum), in the hilly suburb
of Motithang overlooking the town, and of
course in the citys central district.

Trashi Chhoe Dzong

This large dzong, north of the city on the
west bank of the Wang Chhu, manages not to
impose on the valley or the city as a dominating, impenetrable fortress; rather, its splendid
proportions and modest setting bestow a subtle, monastic magnificence. The whitewashed

T H I M P H U D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s 101

outer structure is two storeys high with threestorey towers at the four corners projecting
out over the walls and capped by red-andgold, triple-tiered roofs. The outer walls are
built of trimmed, neatly fitted granite blocks,
unlike other dzongs, which were made of
roughly dressed stones. Similarly, the dochey
(courtyard) is paved with rectangular stone
slabs. The dzong housed the original National
Assembly and now houses the secretariat, the
throne room and offices of the king and the
ministries of home affairs and finance.
Trashi Chhoe has two main entrances on its
eastern side. One leads to the administrative
section towards the south, and another, towards the north, leads to the monastic quarter,
the summer residence of the dratshang (central
monk body), and where the dances of the
annual tsechu festival (see p60 and p107) are
performed. The dzongs Sangay Tsokhorsum
Thondrol (the immense thangka painted or
embroidered religious picture that is unfurled at the climax of the tsechu) depicts the
Buddha Sakyamuni and his two disciples.
Entering the dzong you are greeted by lively
sculptures of the Guardians of the Four Directions (see p80), the wrathful gatekeepers
Chana Dorje and Hayagriva, and the popular Divine Madman, Drukpa Kunley (see
p136). Look for the mural of the Four Friends
(see p57), depicting a much-loved Bhutanese
fable. Upon entering the courtyard you are
taken by the splendid proportions of the architecture and the vast courtyard; the enclosed
silence only broken by the flight of pigeons,
the shuffle of feet and the whirr of prayer
wheels. A large utse (central tower) separates
the northern monastic courtyard, which surrounds the highly decorated Lhakhang Sarpa
(New Temple), from the southern courtyard.
The northern monastic assembly hall houses
a large statue of Sakyamuni, the Historical
Buddha (see p75), and meticulous murals
illustrate the life of Buddha and portray mystical mandalas.
This is not the original Thimphu dzong.
In 1216 Lama Gyalwa Lhanangpa built DhoNgen Dzong (Blue Stone Dzong) on the hill
above Thimphu where Dechen Phodrang
now stands. A few years later Lama Phajo
Drukgom Shigpo, who brought the Drukpa
Kagyu lineage to Bhutan, took over the dzong.
In 1641 the Zhabdrung acquired the dzong
from the descendants of Lama Phajo and
renamed it Trashi Chhoe Dzong (Fortress of

THIMPHU

THIMPHU

100 T H I M P H U I n f o r m a t i o n

THIMPHU CITY
A

INFORMATION
Atsara Business Centre...........(see 34)
Bank of Bhutan (City Branch).....1 B4
Bank of Bhutan (Main Branch)....2 B3
Bhutan National Bank.................3 B4
Book World............................(see 68)

18
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70

24

City Bus Stand

62

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35

Lam

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38

26

Rabte

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56

25

31

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45

41

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Clocktower
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Lam

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Gato72
Stadium
34
21
37
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68

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15

14

54

75

74

Yangchenphug
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Weekend
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Jigme Dorje Wangchuck Public

Library...................................6 A2
Kelly Dry Cleaners......................7 B4
Korean Embassy.........................8 C5
Megah Books.............................9 B4
Norling Cyberworld................(see 28)
Norling Medical.....................(see 28)
Pekhang Bookshop................(see 60)
Police Station...........................10 B4
Post Office...............................(see 3)
Thai Consulate.........................11 B4
United Nations House..............12 B3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Bhutan Bicycle Club.................13
Changlimithang Stadium &
Archery Field........................14
Doma Lhakhang.......................15
National Memorial Chorten......16
National Textile Museum.........17
Royal Academy of Performing
Arts......................................18
Sports Complex.......................19
Thai Pavillion............................20
Voluntary Artists Studio
Thimphu..............................21
Weekend Market.....................22
Zangto Pelri Lhakhang.............23

Lam
en
Bad

Ch

65

um

Lam

ren
Yard

To
Dechenchholing
(2km)

r Chhu

Lam

City Pharmacy.......................(see 34)

Cyber Caf............................(see 50)
Department of Tourism..............4 A4
Druk Air.................................(see 47)
DSB Books.............................(see 62)
India Bhutan Friendship Hospital..5 B5

ho
Ch am
L

Desi Lam

lonelyplanet.com

To Chhuzom (31km);
Paro (53km)

lonelyplanet.com

T H I M P H U S i g h t s 103

0
0

200 m
0.1 miles

SLEEPING
Centre Lodge.........................(see 51)
Druk Hotel...............................24 C5
Hotel Dragon Roots.................25 C5
Hotel Druk Sherig....................26 C5
Hotel Galingkha.......................27 B4
Hotel Norling...........................28 B4
Hotel Pedling...........................29 B4
Hotel Phentsholling Pelri..........30 B4
Hotel Riverview.......................31 D5
Hotel Taktsang.........................32 B4
Hotel Tandin............................33 B4
Hotel Yoedzer..........................34 C4
Hotel Zey Zang........................35 C5
Jambayang Resort................... 36 D3
Jumolhari.................................37 C5
NT Hotel..................................38 C5
Taj Tashi Hotel.........................39 B3
Wangchuk Hotel..................... 40 C5
Yeedzin Guest House...............41 B5
EATING
All Stars Disco........................(see 54)
Art Caf...................................42 A5
Benez Restaurant.....................43 C4
Bhutan Kitchen........................44 C4
Boomerang............................(see 70)
Chasa Caf............................(see 64)
Hotel New Grand.....................45 C5
Jichu Drakey Bakery.................46 A5
Khamsa Coffee House.............47 C4
Mendayla Sweets.................... 48 C4
Mid Point Restaurant...............49 B4
Plums Caf...............................50 B4
Rice Bowl.................................51 B4
Seasons Restaurant..................52 B4
Sharchhogpa Grocery...............53 B3
SNS Restaurant........................54 C5
Swiss Bakery............................55 B4
Tashi Supermarket...................56 C5
Terdzor Hotel...........................57 B3
Thai Cuisine...........................(see 27)
ENTERTAINMENT
Buzz Club................................58 C4
Gravity.....................................59 B3
Luger Cinema...........................60 B4
Mila Restaurant........................61 B4
Om Bar....................................62 C5
Space 34................................(see 62)
Tashi Nencha Music Studio....(see 23)
Zone........................................63 C4
SHOPPING
Art Shop Gallery...................... 64 C5
Bhutan Archery Shop.............(see 28)
Druk Handicraft.....................(see 70)
Druktrin Rural Handicrafts......(see 40)
Duty Free Shop........................65 A2
Handicrafts Emporium..............66 B3
Hong Kong Market..................67 B4
Jimmy Bros Stationery..............68 C5
Jungshi Handmade Paper
Factory................................ 69 D4
Kelzang Handicrafts.................70 B4
Kuenphen Colour Lab..............71 B4
Namgyel Tyres.........................72 C4
Norling Audio........................(see 28)
Philatelic Bureau.......................(see 3)
Zangmo Handicrafts................73 C5
TRANSPORT
Bus Station.............................. 74 D6
Taxi Stand............................... 75 C6

the Glorious Religion). He arranged to house

both monks and civil officials in the dzong,
but it was soon found to be too small. The
Zhabdrung then built another dzong, known
as the lower dzong, for the civil officials and
used the original building for the monks. The
13th Druk Desi, Chhogyel Sherab Wangchuck
(174463), later enlarged Trashi Chhoe Dzong
so that it could again accommodate both civil
officials and monks.
The original dzong was destroyed by fire
in 1771 and was abandoned in favour of the
lower dzong, which was expanded. That
dzong itself suffered a fire in 1866 and twice
since then. The five-storey utse was damaged
in the 1897 earthquake and rebuilt in 1902.
When he moved the capital to Thimphu in
1962, King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck began a
five-year project to completely renovate and
enlarge the dzong. The royal architect performed the repairs without touching the utse,
Lhakhang Sarpa or any other of its chapels at
the centre. Other than these structures, the
entire dzong was rebuilt in traditional fashion,
without nails or written plans.
Below the dzong is an excellent example of a
traditional cantilever bridge. To the south of the
dzong is a set of low (and unattractive) administration buildings (for which there are demolition plans). West of the dzong is the small tower
of Ney Khang Lhakhang, which houses a statue
of Sakyamuni flanked by the protective deity
Gyenyen Jagpa Melen and Dorje Daktshen, the
female guardian deity of Phajoding.

Weekend Market

The weekend market is crammed into a set

of stalls on both banks of the Wang Chhu,
just north of Changlimithang Stadium. Vendors from throughout the region arrive on
Thursday and Friday and remain until Sunday night. Its an interesting place to visit,
where village people jostle with well-heeled
Thimphu residents for the best and cheapest
vegetables and foodstuffs.
Depending on the season, you may find
potatoes, garlic, numerous varieties of chillies,
red and white rice, cauliflowers, cabbages,
lettuces, eggplants, asparagus, peas, several
kinds of mushrooms and the young, curly
fern fronds known as nakey. Fruits come
from local orchards and from southern regions. You will find oranges, apples, bananas,
mangoes, apricots, peaches and plums. If you
wander off into one corner of the market,

THIMPHU

THIMPHU

102 T H I M P H U T h i m p h u C i t y

youll find an odoriferous collection of dried

fish, freshly slaughtered beef and pork, and
balls of datse (homemade soft cheese). During
the winter you can even pick up a leg of yak
(with the hoof still attached).
Across the newly constructed cantilever
footbridge, Kuendeyling Bazaam, to the west
bank is a collection of stalls housing clothing,
fabric and handicrafts. Here you will find
locally produced goods (as well as plenty of
stuff from Nepal), including prayer wheels,
cymbals, horns, cloth, baskets and remarkable
hats from various minority groups. Bargaining is very much in order and you may find
your guide or a local can advise you on the
quality of your intended purchase.

National Institute for Zorig Chusum

The National Institute for Zorig Chusum (Map p99;
% 322302; izc@druknet.bt; Pedzoe Lam; h 9am-5pm
Mon-Sat) is commonly known as the painting

school. It operates under the auspices of the

National Technical Training Institute and
offers four- to six-year courses that provide
instruction in many of Bhutans traditional
arts to students from throughout the country whose aptitude is more artistic than academic. The students follow a comprehensive
course that starts with drawing and progresses
through painting, woodcarving, embroidery
and statue-making.
Most tour operators include a visit to the
school in their sightseeing program. Though
large groups of visitors disrupt the classes, you
will be astounded at the skill and discipline of
the young students. The images of the Buddhist deities on p75 were painted by senior
students of the school.
Dont be surprised if you are accosted by
one or two entrepreneurial types selling their
wares. If you want to peruse a wider selection
of the students art, see Shopping (p113).

National Memorial Chorten

This large Tibetan-style chorten (Map p99; Chorten
Lam) was built in 1974 to honour the memory
of the third king, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck.
The whitewashed chorten is decorated with
richly carved annexes facing the cardinal directions, and features elaborate mandalas,
statues and a shrine dedicated to the popular third king. There are numerous religious
paintings and complex tantric statues housed
inside reflecting both peaceful and wrathful
aspects of Buddhist deities.

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The memorial chorten, with its sun-catching

golden finial, is one of the most visible religious
structures in Thimphu, and for many people it
is the focus of their daily worship. Throughout
the day people circumambulate the chorten,
whirl the large red prayer wheels and pray at a
small shrine inside the gate. The early morning
is particularly tranquil as elderly people shuffle
in, and spruced-up kids on their way to school
whiz in and out to pay homage.

Folk Heritage Museum

A restored three-storey, rammed-earth and
timber building houses the Folk Heritage Museum
(Phelchey Toenkhym; Map p99; %327133; Pedzoe Lam; SAARC
national/adult Nu 25/150; h9am-5pm Tue-Sat). The house

replicates a traditional farmhouse and is furnished as it would have been about a century
ago. A guided tour of this almost-living museum is included in the admission and provides
a glimpse into traditional Bhutanese life. The
house design and many of the implements are
also reminders of how many rural Bhutanese
still live today. Bring a torch (flashlight) as some
of the rooms are quite dimly lit.

National Library
West of the golf course is the National Library
(Map p99; %322885; Pedzoe Lam; h9.30am-1pm & 2-5pm
Mon-Fri). It was established in 1967 to preserve

many ancient Dzongkha and Tibetan texts,

and is a lavishly decorated and vibrant example of Bhutanese architecture.
Pride of place on the ground floor is a copy
of the largest published book in the world.
Entitled Bhutan, this mega tome would crush
any coffee table and defy any bookshelf. Its illustrated pages are turned one page per month.
Details on the book and how to buy a copy
can be found at www.friendlyplanet.org. Also
on the ground floor are the English-language
books. There are a few travel books about
India and Tibet, and many about Buddhism
and Himalayan history, but its an eclectic collection where you might find anything. There
is a collection of bound volumes of Kuensel
and another collection of the many reports
produced by agencies that have undertaken
development or research projects. There is
also a small collection of books about Bhutan
on a shelf behind the checkout desk.
Traditional books and historic manuscripts
are kept on the top floor its worth the climb.
Many of these books are Tibetan-style, printed
or written on long strips of handmade paper

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stacked between pieces of wood and wrapped

in silken cloth. There are displays of several
significant documents which are well labelled
in English. In another section is an old printing press and wooden blocks used for printing
books and prayer flags.
Sometimes you will see people circumambulating the National Library building and
chanting mantras. This is because the building houses many holy books. An altar on
the ground floor, with statues of Bhutans
most important historic figures, Zhabdrung
Ngawang Namgyal, Pema Lingpa and Guru
Rinpoche, also contributes to the buildings
sacred importance. Other displays include a
model of Punakha Dzong and an exhibit of
Chorten architecture. The library has a branch
at Kuenga Rabten palace south of Trongsa in
central Bhutan.

SAARC Building
The large traditional Bhutanese-style building
across the river from Trashi Chhoe Dzong was
built in the early 1990s to provide a venue for
a meeting of the heads of state and government from the South Asia Association for Regional Co-operation (SAARC). That meeting
was never held in Bhutan but plans are in the
pipeline now that Bhutan boasts several hotels
that meet the five-star needs of the SAARC
officials. The impressive structure now houses
the planning and foreign ministries, and the
National Assembly was relocated to this building in 1993. Long corridors of power lead to
the elaborately decorated National Assembly
(held twice a year), while nearby is the Royal
Banquet Hall.

National Institute of Traditional

Medicine
Established in 1978, one of the more interesting facilities in Thimphu is the National Institute of Traditional Medicine (Map p99; %324647; www

T H I M P H U S i g h t s 105

There is a day-care facility and clinic where

doctors diagnose patients and prescribe appropriate medicines or treatments. Tour
operators can arrange visits to the institute.
There is a small museum and gift shop where
you can purchase tsheringma, a safflowerbased herbal tea.
The institute also researches the use of
medicinal herbs and plants and has a trial
plot on the premises. It has field units that
collect medicinal plants from far away places
such as Lingzhi in western Bhutan, where a
number of significant medicinal species grow
in abundance.

National Textile Museum

Thimphus National Textile Museum (Map pp102-3;
%321516; Norzin Lam; SAARC national/adult Nu 25/150;
h9am-4pm) is worth a visit to get to know the

living national art of weaving. Exhibitions introduce the major weaving techniques, styles
of local dress and textiles made by women and
men. There is usually a small group of weavers
working their looms inside the shop, which features work from the renowned weaving centres
in Lhuentse Dzongkhag, the ancestral home of
the royal family in northeastern Bhutan. Each
item is labelled with the name of the weaver, at
prices ranging from Nu 1500 to 25,000.

Changlimithang Stadium & Archery

Ground
The national stadium occupies the site of the
1885 battle that helped establish the political
supremacy of Ugyen Wangchuck, Bhutans
first king. It is now the site of the national
archery ground, a large football stadium and
parade ground, basketball, tennis and squash
courts, as well as the headquarters of the Bhutan Olympic committee. Its always worth
checking to see what event is taking place
when you are in town.

.health.gov.bt/indigenous/index.htm; Serzhong Lam;

h9am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat). The EU provides

Voluntary Artists Studio Thimphu

funding for this project, which prepares

and dispenses traditional herbal and other
medicines. There is an impressive laboratory
and production facility that manufactures
quality products, the components of which
may include plants, minerals, animal parts,
precious metals and gems. All kinds of pills,
tablets, ointments and medicinal teas from
here are distributed to regional health-care
units around the country.

(VAST; Map pp102-3; %325664; www.vast-bhutan.org; Chang

Lam) is hidden away on the top floor of a not-

The impressive Voluntary Artists Studio Thimphu

so-impressive building on Chang Lam. After
negotiating several flights of betel-stained stairs
you emerge at the study, which can be incredibly busy with after-school and weekend classes
in drawing and painting for young artists. The
goal of the studio (which accepts donations) is
to use Bhutanese artistic values to create both
traditional and contemporary works and to

THIMPHU

THIMPHU

104 T H I M P H U S i g h t s

provide vocational training. Theres a small

library and coffee shop where budding artists
are encouraged to congregate. Art by the students and instructors is sold in the exhibition
spaces in the studio and in the Art Shop Gallery
(see p113) in Clocktower Sq.

Motithang Takin Preserve

A short distance up the road to the telecom
tower is a trail leading to a large fenced area
that was originally established as a mini-zoo.
The king decided that such a facility was not
in keeping with Bhutans environmental and
religious convictions, and it was disbanded
some time ago. The animals were released into
the wild but the takins, Bhutans national animal, were so tame that they wandered around
the streets of Thimphu looking for food, and
the only solution was to put them back into
captivity. Its worthwhile taking the time to
see these oddball mammals. The best time to
see them is early morning when they gather
near the fence to feed. Its a five-minute walk
from the road to a viewing area where you can
take advantage of a few holes in the fence to
take photographs. For more about this curious
creature see p87.

Telecom Tower
Theres a wonderful view of Thimphu valley
from the hillside below the telecommunications tower (2685m), high above the town
at the end of a road that branches off from
the approach to the youth centre. The complex also houses the broadcasting studios
of Bhutan TV and is festooned with prayer
flags. Dont photograph the telecommunications installation, but the valley is worth a
few snaps particularly in the afternoon. The
area is known as Sangaygang and the access
road attracts fitness fanatics after work and
becomes a lovers lane after dark.

Royal Academy of Performing Arts

The home of the Royal Dance Troupe is the
Royal Academy of Performing Arts (Map pp102-3;
%322569; Chhophel Lam; h8.45am-4.30pm Mon-Fri).
It provides formal training for masked dancers and also works to preserve Bhutans folkdancing heritage. Unless theres a practice
session on, theres little to see here. The professional dancers from this school perform
several of the dances at the Thimphu tsechu.
With advance notice they will provide a onehour performance for visitors.

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Changangkha Lhakhang
This is an old fortresslike temple and monastic
school perched on a ridge above Thimphu,
southeast of Motithang. It was established
in the 12th century on a site chosen by
Lama Phajo Drukgom Shigpo, who came
from Ralung in Tibet. The central statue is
Chenresig in an 11-headed, thousand-armed
manifestation. There are enormous prayer
wheels to spin and even the prayer books in
the temple are larger in size than usual Tibetan
texts. Dont leave without taking in the excellent view from the courtyard.

Drubthob Goemba
After you drive down the road from the telecom tower, you will find yourself on Gaden
Lam, the road that runs high above the golf
course. There are some great views of the
town, and of Trashi Chhoe Dzong, and above
you can see Drubthob Goemba, which now
houses the Zilukha nunnery.

Dechen Phodrang
At the end of Gaden Lam is Dechen Phodrang,
the site of Thimphus original Trashi Chhoe
Dzong (see p101 for a brief history). Since 1971
it has housed the state monastic school, and a
long procession of monks often travels between
here and the dzong. A team of 15 teachers
provides an eight-year course to more than
450 students. On any regular day the grounds
hum with assorted recitations emanating from
the windows. The 12th-century paintings in the
goembas Guru Lhakhang have been restored
and the upper floor features a large figure of
Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal as well as the
goenkhang (chapel devoted to protective and
terrifying deities). The central figure in the
downstairs chapel is the Buddha Sakyamuni.

Zangto Pelri Lhakhang

This private chapel, built in the 1990s by
Dasho Aku Tongmi, a musician who composed Bhutans national anthem, is south
of the weekend market. Its beside the older
Yigja Dungkhar Lhakhang and is a replica of
Guru Rinpoches celestial abode. It is Bhutans tallest lhakhang and houses many large
statues, including a 4m-high image of Guru
Rinpoche.

ACTIVITIES
You will probably be too busy sightseeing,
trekking or shopping to swim, cycle or go rock

lonelyplanet.com

climbing, but these activities are available if

you want them.
There are two tennis courts, squash courts
and a basketball court at the north end of the
Changlimithang Stadium.

Golf
The Royal Thimphu Golf Club (Map p99; %325429;
www.golfbhutan.com; Chhophel Lam; green fees & club hire
per day US$50) has a nine-hole course beautifully

situated above Trashi Chhoe Dzong. Indian

Brigadier General TV Jaganathan, posted in
Bhutan between 1968 and 1973, got permission from King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck to
construct a few holes. The king later granted
permission to expand the course to nine
holes, recognising that it would provide
an attractive green area adjacent to Trashi
Chhoe Dzong. The course was formally inaugurated in 1971 as the Royal Thimphu
Golf Club.
Caddies are available for Nu 200 to 300,
but since they are mostly schoolboys, they
are usually not on site until late afternoon.
You can buy lost balls from kids for Nu 20 to
50. You dont need to make an appointment
to play, but weekends are busy and you may
have to wait to tee off.

Cycling
The Bhutan Bicycle Club (Map pp102-3; %321905; www
.bhutanmtb.com; Clocktower Sq) organises rides and has
bikes for hire (US$30 per day, including helmet). A helmet is required within Thimphu city
limits and, of course, is highly recommended
elsewhere. The club can arrange to have you and
the bike transported to the start of several rides
(see p244 for more information).

Rock Climbing

T H I M P H U W a l k i n g T o u r 107

WALKING TOUR
A young city, Thimphu is not crowded with
historical sights but its size makes it ideal for
a wander, turning into lanes and following
your nose. Its impossible to get lost; if you get
confused just head downhill towards the river
and you will soon come across something you
recognise. See the map on p108.
For a slightly strenuous excursion, start at
Clocktower Square (1), head up the stairs to Norzin
Lam and turn north to reach the traffic circle
(2) with the arm-snapping police. Walk uphill
along Chorten Lam past the Art Caf (3; p112)
why not drop in for excellent coffee and cake
to observe the circumambulations of the
National Memorial Chorten (4; p104). Backtrack
along Chorten Lam and turn left at Jangchhub Lam, which takes you north to the rather
neglected Doma Lhakhang (5) and Thai Pavillion (6).
Head down a footpath (northeast) to Doendrup
Lam, and turn left towards bustling Hong Kong
Market (7) and, after perusing the shops, take the
narrow alley lined with vegetable sellers to Norzin Lam. From here its an easy stroll downhill
back to Clocktower Sq or turn left and continue
up Norzin Lam past the Handicrafts Emporium (8;
p113) to the National Textile Museum (9; p105),
both worthwhile detours. Head back south
down Norzin Lam and drop into the opulent
Taj Tashi Hotel (10; p110) to check out the ambience, restaurants and bars. Continue east along
Samtem Lam to Chang Lam and then further
east down Dungkhar Lam to the market area,
which has permanent shops but really comes to
life during the Weekend Market (11; p103). Head
along Chhogyel Lam while keeping an eye out
at Changlimithang Stadium (12; p105) for any sport
activity before heading back along Chang Lam
to Clocktower Sq.

Bhutans only rock-climbing club, Vertical Bhutan (%322966; verticalbhutan@hotmail.com), gathers

most weekends to climb on The Nose, a rock
face high above the southwest part of Thimphu. There are several prepared routes with
names such as Wedding Present and Reach
and Preach. Contact the club via email or call
the club secretary, Dilu Giri, for the climbing
schedule.

COURSES

Swimming

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

You can swim in the pool at Thimphus Sports

Complex (Map pp102-3; %322064; Doebum Lam; Nu 50;
h4-8pm Mon-Fri, 1-6pm Sat & Sun Feb-Nov). There is
also a basketball court and gym.

Some Bhutanese tour companies offer specific tours to cater for special-interest groups,
such as bird-watchers, and it is by no means
impossible to organise instructive courses
in cooking, religion, meditation etc, which
can be worked into your itinerary. Of course
you will need to organise this with the tour
company well in advance.
Thimphu really comes alive during the annual
tsechu, held consecutively over eight to ten
days in September/October, corresponding
to the eighth lunar month in the Bhutanese

THIMPHU

THIMPHU

106 T H I M P H U A c t i v i t i e s

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SLEEPING
If you are on a normal tourist visa, you will
probably be booked into one of the comfortable midrange hotels unless you have payed
a premium for a top-end hotel. Also, if you
have scheduled your trip during the Thimphu
tsechu, you may find yourself bumped into
budget digs, a smaller guesthouse or even a private home. If you end up as a house guest, you
will get the chance to make new friends and will
have found the perfect recipient for the bottle
of duty-free liquor you bought en route.

Lam

calendar. For dates and more information

see p247. Another colourful and entertaining
event that is uniquely Bhutanese is a good
archery competition; see p113 for details.

th

Footpa

hen

Dec

If you are an Indian national or are working

in Bhutan on a project, you have the option
to choose a more moderately priced hotel.
The budget hotels listed here are not as comfortable as the tourist hotels, but theyre all
quite adequate. For those paying their own
way, hotels will charge 10% sales tax and
10% service on the rates shown. Many of the
smaller hotels make no distinction between
double or single occupancy and simply charge
by the room.

Budget
All the hotels listed below have hot water and
heating, but you may have to turn on your hot
water service yourself (and dont forget the tap
as well) and request a portable room heater.

Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com

T H I M P H U S l e e p i n g 109

Hotel Zey Zang (Map pp102-3; %334707; Norzin Lam;

s/d Nu 600/800) The recently established Zey Zang

Jumolhari Hotel (Map pp102-3; %322747; fax 324412;

www.hoteljumolhari.com; Wogzin Lam; s/d Nu 2500/2900; i)

is a comfortable and secure hotel at the top of

the budget range. The rooms are rather characterless (save for the bright curtains), airy,
carpeted, spotless and equipped with cable
TV and heater. The small bathrooms have a
shower but no tub. Theres a large restaurantbar and very attentive staff.
Centre Lodge (Map pp102-3; %334331; fax 324709;
Centre Mall, Norzin Lam; d Nu 800-1200) Most of this hotels rooms are bright and sunny, heated, have a
TV and are very well kept. The name is apt for
this central location. The down side is the seemingly endless staircase to access the rooms.
Hotel Tandin (Map pp102-3; %322380; Norzin Lam;
s/d/ste Nu 350/450/650) The Tandin is in the centre
of the city, near the cinema, and boasts a bar,
restaurant and a nifty little philatelic shop.
The rooms are plain and not immune to noise,
but have the all-important heater plus the less
necessary TV.
Hotel Yoedzer (Map pp102-3; %324007; fax 325927;
City Centre Complex, Wogzin Lam; s/d from Nu 400/500) This
friendly hotel is conveniently located near
Clocktower Sq. The rooms are a little tired but
clean enough and there are larger suites available. The restaurant does great Indian food
and the chefs shepherds pie has attracted a
small appreciation society.
Hotel Norling (Map pp102-3; %322997; fax 324447;
Norling Centre, Norzin Lam; s/d Nu 350/550) The Norling is central, cheap and noisy and the basic
rooms are clean and the staff friendly.

This centrally located hotel bills itself as a boutique hotel and boasts a classy ambience and
stylish dcor. The rooms are tasteful, carpeted
and comfortable; there is a health club with
spa, and an excellent restaurant serving Indian,
Continental, Chinese and Bhutanese dishes.
Hotel Druk Sherig (Map pp102-3; %322598; fax 322714;
Wogzin Lam; s/d/ste Nu 950/1200/1500) The rooms in this
former guesthouse are brightly decorated in
Bhutanese dcor and feature lots of polished
wood. A vivid ghori hangs over each entrance
to the spacious rooms, and the multicuisine
restaurant specialises in local dishes.
Hotel Riverview (Map pp102-3; %323497; fax
323496; Dechen Lam; s/d Nu 1500/1800; i) On the east
bank of the Wang Chhu is this hefty, pseudoBhutanese-style hotel. All of the spacious, carpeted, well-appointed rooms have a balcony
with a river and town view. Its a little inconvenient if you want to stroll around town but
theres a restaurant, business centre, conference
room and handicraft shop on the premises.
Jambayang Resort (Map pp102-3; %322349; fax
bank is the charming Jambayang Resort. This
sprawling old-fashioned guesthouse has 16 individual rooms, some with balcony and views,
and four private apartments with kitchens.
Many Bhutanese recommend the restaurant
here with its great view.
Hotel Phuentsholling Pelri (Map pp102-3; %334970;

Midrange

fax 323392; phuetshopelri@druknet.bt; Phenday Lam; s/d Nu

1625/2000; i) This new hotel was still receiv-

All hotels in this range have TV (cable or satellite), heating, phones and private bathrooms
with 24-hour hot water. Prices given are usually for standard rooms; a smaller number
of deluxe rooms and suites are also usually
available for a higher tariff, and some hotels
have apartments for long-term rental.
Druk Hotel (Map pp102-3; %322966; fax 322677; druk

ing its finishing touches when we visited.

The huge doubles had polished floorboards,
thicker-than-usual mattresses, and tea and
coffee facilities. The elevator, business centre
and top-floor apartments were still works in
progress, whereas the swish restaurant and
bar were up and running.
Hotel Dragon Roots (Map pp102-3; %332820; fax

hotel@druknet.bt; Wogzin Lam; s/d/ste Nu 2700/3000/6000;

i) This hotel has long been considered the

332823; droots@druknet.bt; Wogzin Lam; s/d Nu 1800/2200;

w) The oddly named Dragon Roots boasts an

best in Thimphu. With the arrival of the big

boys in the form of Taj and Aman, the friendly
Druk will settle for a lower profile which will
suit many of its fans. It is in the centre of town,
overlooking Clocktower Sq and boasts a bar,
a multicuisine restaurant noted for its Indian
food, a business centre with wireless internet, a
hair salon and a health club with a gym, sauna
and steam bath.

elevator which, although small, should make

this hotel relatively wheelchair friendly. The
well-equipped rooms are cosy with wooden
floors and carved furniture, and there is a
large restaurant serving Bhutanese, Indian,
Chinese and Continental dishes, with plenty
of vegetarian options.
Wangchuk Hotel (Map pp102-3; %323532; htlwchuk@
druknet.bt; Chang Lam; s/d Nu 1530/1950) This hotel

323669; jambayangs@druknet.bt; Dechen Lam; s/d Nu 1200/1800;

i) High above the Wang Chhu on the east

THIMPHU

Ch

Book accommodation online

l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com

108 T H I M P H U S l e e p i n g

overlooks the stadium and is a favourite of

many expatriates. The wood-panelled, carpeted rooms are spacious, light and comfortable so dont be put off by the gloomy lobby.
The nightly rates include breakfast and the
restaurant has a good reputation.
Hotel Pedling (Map pp102-3; %325714; fax 323592;
pedling@druknet.bt; Doendrup Lam; s/d Nu 1450/1800; i)

The double rooms are comfy and well appointed with computer plug-in points, but
show their age and are overdue for sprucing
up. There is a good restaurant with the usual
multicuisine menu and a business centre.
Yeedzin Guest House (Map pp102-3; %325702; fax
324995; yeedzin@druknet.bt; Jangchhub Lam; s/d/ste Nu
700/1000/1200) This delightful guesthouse over-

looks central Thimphu and oozes old-world

charm. For long-staying guests there are five
suites, each with a kitchen. The appealing restaurant is warmed by an open fire and dishes
up continental, Chinese and Bhutanese fare
at tables or on local-style benches.
Motithang Hotel (Map pp102-3; %322435; Thori Lam;
s/d Nu 1020/1290) Looking older than its 1990s
heritage, the rustic, wood-panelled Motithang
is quite a distance above the business district, in a peaceful rural setting. The appealing
rooms are lined in warm wood and theres a
multicuisine restaurant.
Hotel Galingkha (Map pp102-3; %328126; fax 322677;
Doebum Lam; s/d Nu 1000/1500) Opposite the Swiss
Bakery, the rooms of the Galingkha are spacious with basic facilities and furnishings. The
fascinating aspect over the southern traffic
circle is a bonus for the view but also a curse
when the canine opera commences at night.
The Thai restaurant downstairs (see opposite)
is good for a change of cuisine.
Hotel Taktsang (Map pp102-3; %322102; fax 323284;
Doibum Lam; s/d Nu 1100/1300; i) Tucked in behind
the Galingkha, the rooms at the Taktsang are
spacious and carpeted and share the dogs
after dark. There is a multicuisine restaurant
and a salon.
APARTMENTS

A couple of the hotels above have apartments

for long-term guests. Alternatively there are
specialist providers of self-contained accommodation.
Shambala Executive Apartments (Map p99;
%323363; fax 323600; Thori Lam; apt per month Nu 32,500)

These spacious two-bedroom, two-bathroom,

fully furnished, fully serviced apartments
boast polished floorboards, wood panelling

l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com
Book accommodation online

and other nice touches. Nightly rates for

short-term guests are available on request.
Rabten Apartments (Map p99; %323587; rabten@
druknet.bt; Thori Lam; apt per month Nu 18,000) Longterm guests can stay in these fully furnished
(including TV) apartments and the rent includes cleaning and laundry. The restaurant
specialises in Bhutanese banquets, where you
must call ahead for a reservation.

Top End
Taj Tashi Hotel (Map pp102-3; %322966; fax 322677; Norzim Lam; holidays@tajhotels.com; s/d/ste US$300/300/500; i)

At the time of research, the finishing touches

were being applied to this centrally located,
66-room hotel that towers over Thimphu but
cleverly incorporates traditional architecture.
There are several categories of luxury accommodation, with all rooms beautifully appointed
with traditional art and contemporary comfort.
Guests can choose to dine in three restaurants,
take tea in the tea lounge or sample the bar.
Ones ingestion sins can be expunged in the
gym, spa or heated indoor pool.
Amankora (Map p99; %8272333; www.amanresorts
.com; Thori Lam; s/d US$925/1000; i) On the less is
more theme comes this five-star resort on the
outskirts of town, far from the dogs and traffic
of Norzin Lam. The only sounds to penetrate
the vertical breaches in the stone walls are
the whispers of the surrounding pine grove.
Amankora looks like a mini dzong, its stonepaved passageways inspiring hushed tones in
the reverential guests. Inside the open-plan
rooms, plenty of wood and tan-coloured textiles mellow the monastery asceticism. The traditional bukhari wood heater is a nice touch;
so is the altar-like bath tub. If you can leave the
bath, you can spa yourself silly, have a massage or take in one of the cultural programs.
Airport transfers, meals in the immaculate
restaurant (Bhutanese and Continental menu),
and beverages are included in the tariff.

EATING
Thimphus dining scene is dominated by the
hotel restaurants, but theres a handful of
cosy cafs and restaurant-bars that hint of
epicurean evolution in progress.
Hotel restaurants tend to be a predictable
multicuisine compilation of Indian, Bhutanese,
Chinese and Continental. Not surprisingly one
kitchen rarely excels in all cuisines and we
have used locals, expats and our own gluttonous adventures to source whats good and

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where. Bhutanese cuisine is widely available,

but beware the hot chillies that are an essential,
omnipresent ingredient. Other ingredients are
seasonal, including meat, so dont be surprised
to find some menu items unavailable.

Restaurants
When tour groups are in residence most hotels have a buffet at Nu 300 to 500, but its
usually possible to order from the la carte
menu too.
Seasons Restaurant (Map pp102-3; %327413; Doendrup
Lam; mains Nu 150-200 hlunch & dinner) This deservedly popular restaurant specialises in pizzas
excellent veg and non-veg varieties and pasta.
Theres also a balcony overlooking the bustling
Hong Kong Market where you can enjoy a Red
Panda wheat beer. And from December to
March ask about the yummy yak roast.
Benez Restaurant (Map pp102-3; %325180; Gatoen
Lam; mains Nu 40-120; hlunch & dinner, closed Tue) Benez
is a lively and inviting restaurant in the centre
of town, with a cosy bar in the back that is
popular with locals and expats, especially on
Fridays. In addition to the multicuisine mains
there are excellent bar snacks of momos, samosas, fried cheese balls, etc.
Druk Hotel (Map pp102-3; %322966; Wogzin Lam;
mains Nu 75-150; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) This spacious restaurant caters to tour groups as well
as Thimphus business and whos-who crowd
(at least until the Taj Tashi gets going). The
Indian menu is excellent and the multicuisine
business lunch is top value at Nu 90.
Jumolhari Hotel (Map pp102-3; %322747; www.hotel
jumolhari.com; Wogzin Lam; mains Nu 50-150; hbreakfast,
lunch & dinner) This delightful restaurant in one

of Thimphus most appealing hotels is notable

for its delicious tandoori and curries, delicate
naans, cold beer and relaxed atmosphere.
Bhutan Kitchen (Map pp102-3; %331919; Gatoen
Lam; mains Nu 100-300; hlunch & dinner) This elegant
restaurant showcases Bhutanese cuisine (in
addition to a multicuisine menu) in a spacious
but warm setting that features traditional seating, a traditional kitchen and store room. It
was designed with tour groups in mind, so
you can dive into ema datse (chillies and
cheese) and other local dishes without calling
for the fire brigade. Finish off with a warm
arra the local firewater.
Plums Caf (Map pp102-3; %324307; Chorten Lam;
mains Nu 60-120; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat) A small
sign above a door points patrons upstairs to
this popular restaurant which offers conti-

T H I M P H U E a t i n g 111

nental food as well as an extensive range of

Chinese and Bhutanese. Its another ideal
place to try ema datse or a dish of local mushrooms or nakey.
Rice Bowl (Map pp102-3; %333844; Centre Mall, Norzin
Lam; mains Nu 70-150; hlunch & dinner) Excellent
chilli pork, Sechuan chicken or the recommended crispy sesame chicken, are just some
of the numerous spicy offerings best enjoyed
by sharing.
Thai Cuisine (Galingkha Hotel; Map pp102-3; %328126;
Chorten Lam; mains Nu 60-80; hlunch & dinner) Local,
fresh ingredients are given the Thai touch and
presented with flair in this spacious restaurant
overlooking the southern traffic circle. Peruse
the menu by all means but its better to ask the
chef what she recommends on the night.
Mid Point Restaurant (Map pp102-3; %321269;
Wogzin Lam; mains Nu 30-60; hlunch & dinner) This is
a favourite restaurant of many Bhutanese for
its generous local, Chinese and Indian dishes,
particularly dosas and other south Indian
cuisine, at very reasonable prices.
S.N.S. Restaurant (Map pp102-3; %326177; Chang
Lam; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Conveniently located next to All Stars Disco, S.N.S. is a busy
place on disco nights and is the only restaurant in town where you might get a late-night
snack. It has the only Japanese food around.
NT Hotel (Map pp102-3; %323458; Norzin Lam; mains
Nu 30-70; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Dont bother
checking out the rooms, but the restaurant is
a recommended, basic, inexpensive, hot curry
and cold beer haunt. Dont inspect under the
tables but do enjoy the Tuesday special.
Most hotel restaurants can put on decent
meals, and a few have other charms: Jambayang
Resort (Map pp102-3; %322349; Dechen Lam; mains Nu
70-180; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) is noted for its
olde worlde charm and superb view over
town; on the other hand, the Amankora (Map p99;
%8272333; set menu US$50) boasts international
fare and five-star service. Not surprisingly
the hotels that primarily cater to Indian guests
serve up good-value curries. Try the Hotel
Yoedzer (Map pp102-3; %324007; Wogzin Lam; mains Nu
40-90; hlunch & dinner), which also does a mean
shepherds pie; the Terdzor Hotel (Map pp102-3;
%334453; Norzin Lam; mains Nu 30-50, buffet per person
Nu 130; hlunch & dinner), which has outstanding

Nepali (Friday) and Punjabi (Saturday) buffets; or the Hotel New Grand (Map pp102-3; %324290;
Norzin Lam; mains Nu 30-50; hlunch & dinner), an unsophisticated vegetarian restaurant with south
Indian delicacies.

THIMPHU

THIMPHU

110 T H I M P H U E a t i n g

Cafs
Art Caf (Map pp102-3; %327933; Doebum Lam; cakes
& soups Nu 50-150; h7.30am-7pm, closed Mon) Smart,
bright and cosy best describe this Thimphu
trendsetter. Great coffee and wicked cakes (such
as the addictive chocolate tart) will have you
returning again and again, and the small mains
selection hearty soups, pasta, noodles make
for an ideal lunch.
Swiss Bakery (Map pp102-3; %322259; Chorten Lam;
h8am-7pm Wed-Mon) On a hill above the southern
traffic circle, this was Bhutans first attempt
at a fast-food joint. It was opened in 1970 by
one of Bhutans first expatriates and despite
its well-worn appearance its a much-loved
institution with expats and locals. It serves
great cheese omelettes, plastic-wrapped sandwiches and hamburgers, and a small selection
of homemade cakes.
Chasa Caf (Map pp102-3; Clocktower Sq; h8am-7pm)
Tiny Chasa has minuscule tables and cheap
Bhutanese dishes (all under Nu 70), such as
eye-watering ema datse and soothing fried
rice.
Khamsa Coffee House (Map pp102-3; %333652;
Changlam Plaza, Chang Lam; snacks Nu 25-65; h10am-8pm)

Upstairs (lots of stairs) is this modern coffee

shop where you can get espresso, milkshakes,
pancakes and other snacks, as well as a view.

Quick Eats
Jichu Drakey Bakery (Map pp102-3; %322980; Doebum
Lam; from Nu 15; h7am-noon & 1.30-7.30pm) Stroll up
the hill for first-rate takeaway (there are no
tables) cakes and pastries. Small items include
pear cakes, cream rolls and tarts, and you
can also order apple pie, strudel and larger
cakes.
Mendayla Sweets (Map pp102-3; Chang Lam; h8am8pm) For Indian sweets, ice cream, yogurt,
chocolate, even samosas and pizza, head to
this bright sweets shop.

Self-Catering
For fresh produce, remember the busy weekend market, which kicks off on Thursday,
and the semi-concealed stalls in Hong Kong
market.
Tashi Supermarket (Map pp102-3; Clocktower Sq;
h8am-7.30pm) Huge supermarket with vast range
imported and local groceries, ice creams and refrigerated
chocolates.
Sharchhogpa Grocery (Map pp102-3; %323280;
Norzin Lam; h7am-9pm) Friendly grocery shop with
cereals, bread and plenty of packaged foodstuffs.

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DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT

Thimphu has numerous bars, but only a
handful could be recommended for outsiders looking for more than a game of snooker
and a swig of whisky. Entertainment can also
be a bit of a challenge unless its tsechu time.
Occasional concerts and video shows at the
sports complex will be well advertised by posters and in the newspapers.

Bars
As well as the hotel bars, there are numerous small bars throughout the town. Alcohol
wont be served until after 1pm and most bars
are closed on Tuesday, the national dry day.
Bars close at 11pm weekdays and midnight
on Friday and Saturday.
Om Bar (Map pp102-3; %326344; www.changkhang
.com; Jojos Shopping Complex, Chang Lam; hfrom 5pm,
closed Tue & Sun) Thimphus in bar and a quiet
gathering spot early in the evening that becomes busy with a diverse collection of locals
and expats after 10pm. Its on the 2nd floor of
the shopping complex.
Favourite after-work bars (which double as
restaurants) include cosy Benez Restaurant (Map
pp102-3; %325180; Gatoen Lam; h11am-11pm), with
its talking points such as coasters and cash
from around the globe and designer rums, and
the Zone (Map pp102-3; %331441; Chang Lam; hnoonmidnight), with its modern dcor and great chips,
burgers and pizzas for late-night munchies.

Nightclubs & Live Music

For a small town theres a fair bit of competition in this scene with live music replacing
disco and vice versa and places running hot
and cold. Ask around for the latest vibe. Dont
expect the discos to kick off much before
midnight. Depending on the entertainment
and the time you rock up, a cover charge may
be applicable. Nightclubs and discos close at
midnight weekdays and at 2am Friday and
Saturday.
Here are a few on offer:
All Stars Disco (Map pp102-3; Chang Lam; h10pm2am Wed, Fri & Sat)
Boomerang (Map pp102-3; Yarkay Central, Norzin Lam;
h9pm-2am Wed, Fri & Sat) A bright venue with bigscreen TV, try-out bands and a young crowd.
Buzz Club (Map pp102-3; Chang Lam; h11pm-2am
Wed, Fri & Sat) Big, bold and popular.
Gravity (Map pp102-3; Zangto Pelri Shopping Complex,
Norzin Lam; h10pm-2am Wed, Fri & Sat) Hidden, but
follow the signs.

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Space 34 (Map pp102-3; %323497; Jojos Shopping

Complex, Chang Lam; h10pm-2am Wed, Fri & Sat) Cosy
and thumping and right next to the Om Bar.

Cultural Programmes
If you are in a group of more than four, your
tour operator can arrange a dance performance
at the Royal Academy of Performing Arts (see
p106). A more relaxed atmosphere prevails at
Tashi Nencha Music Studio (Map pp102-3; %322804)
near the Zangto Pelri Lhakhang. The studio
can provide a Bhutanese meal and an evening
of classical and folk music around a bonfire.
Mila Restaurant (Map pp102-3; %325519; Dragon
Shopping Complex, Norzin Lam) features singers and
a Dzongkha comedian most nights. There is
a largely local audience and the performers,
both amateur and professional, sing traditional Bhutanese songs. When there are professional acts expect a Nu 50 cover charge.
After 8pm members of the audience can request songs at Nu 100 each.

Cinemas
The usually crowded and always uncomfortable Luger Cinema (Map pp102-3; %322317; Norzin
Lam) screens Hindi and Bhutanese movies as
well as the occasional ancient English/foreignlanguage movie.

T H I M P H U S h o p p i n g 113

the glass and their sign may read shop cum

bar or the all-encompassing general cum
bar shop.
Many items on sale are made in India,
but there are lots of interesting Bhutanese
products, especially textiles, baskets, jewellery,
incense, books and religious items.
At the Duty Free Shop (Map pp102-3; %322167; Norzin Lam) you can buy imported liquor, wine, biscuits and other luxury items, but you have to
pay the full price, including duty, unless youre a
diplomat or a senior government official.

Archery
Catering to the large community of Bhutanese archers, Bhutan Archery Shop (Map pp102-3;
%332100; Norling Centre, Norzin Lam) specialises in
American-made Hoyt brand bows that range
in price from US$600 to US$1100. Arrows
are the steel-tipped Easton brand, which sell
for Nu 280 to 500. Its a relatively expensive
sport. The traditional bamboo bows are usually homemade and the bamboo arrows can be
picked up at the weekend market.

Contemporary Paintings & Handmade

Paper

Tournaments (see p62) are scheduled on many

weekends at the Changlimithang Archery
Ground. Whether its the traditional bamboo
or the high-tech carbon-fibre bows, the skill,
antics and camaraderie are always entertaining.
For dates of events check the papers. Archers
practise at the target field at the south end of
Changlimithang Stadium on most mornings.

Jungshi Handmade Paper Factory (Map pp102-3;

%323431; Khuju Lam; h8.30am-5pm, Mon-Sat) This
small factory produces watermark paper as
well as cards, lampshades, envelopes, calendars and other items made from traditional
Bhutanese paper.
Located near the Clocktower, Art Shop Gallery
(Map pp102-3; %325664; Wogzin Lam) has art supplies, traditional paper and handicrafts, and
contemporary paintings from the Voluntary
Artists Studio Thimphu (VAST; Map pp102-3; %325664;
www.vast-bhutan.org; Chang Lam), which also sells art
during regular exhibitions.

FOOTBALL

Gho & Kira

The national football tournament takes place

in August at Changlimithang Stadium, with
teams from schools throughout the country competing. At major matches the Royal
Bhutan Army band provides the half-time
entertainment.

If you want to wear Bhutanese dress, there

are many shops in Thimphus shopping complexes that have ready-made gho and kira in a
variety of sizes, patterns and quality. Kelzang
Handicrafts (Map pp102-3; %321353; Yarkay Central, Norzin Lam) and the Handicrafts Emporium (Map pp102-3;
%322810; Norzin Lam) are two to try.
A handmade cotton kira costs around Nu
4000 while a silk kira sells for Nu 50,000 to
80,000. A gho costs about Nu 2000 if its made
from machine-woven cloth and Nu 4000 to
6000 for hand-woven cotton cloth. A silk gho
can cost from Nu 12,000.

Sport
ARCHERY

SHOPPING
Thimphu has a plethora of general shops containing a hodgepodge selection such as light
bulbs, stationery, farm implements, shampoo,
computer disks and canned fish. To provide
even more variety, shops may sell drinks by

THIMPHU

THIMPHU

112 T H I M P H U D r i n k i n g & E n t e r t a i n m e n t

In the industrial estate at the south end of

Thimphu, the Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre
(Map pp102-3; %327534; Changzamtok; h9am-5pm)

produces hand-woven textiles on site and has

a selection of cloth and ready-made garments
for sale. This is one of the few places where
you can watch weavers at work.

Handicrafts, Traditional Arts & Jewellery

Dont neglect the handicraft section at the
weekend market, where you can put your
bargaining prowess to the test. To purchase
the excellent works by students of the National Institute for Zorig Chusum visit Sangay
Arts & Crafts (Map p99; %327419; Pedzoe Lam), in a
building on the road below the school. Behind the school, a narrow lane leads through
a garden to a small house where a traditional
craftsman makes and sells drums and Tibetan violins.
There a numerous handicraft shops selling
thangkas, masks, brassware and jewellery,
including the following.
Handicrafts Emporium (Map pp102-3; %322810;
Norzin Lam; h9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sun) This is a
large government-run emporium with fixed prices.
Druktrin Rural Handicrafts (Map pp102-3;
%324500; Clocktower Sq) At the rear of the Wangchuk
Hotel (enter from Clocktower Sq), this shop offers a great
variety and has a small museum with antique jewellery
and textiles.
Druk Handicraft (Map pp102-3; %322258; Yarkay
Complex, Norzin Lam) Good range of antiques, handicrafts
and earrings.
Choki Handicrafts (Map p99; %324728; fax 323731;
Pedzoe Lam) Near the National Institute for Zorig Chusum,
this establishment manufactures and sells masks, thangkas,
paintings and painted lama tables called choektse.
Zangmo Handicrafts (Map pp102-3; Wogzin Lam) Sells
work from the National Institute for Zorig Chusum and
sometimes has students practising there.

Music
CDs and tapes of Bhutanese and Hindi songs
are available for Nu 200 to 400 in numerous
shops, including Norling Audio (Map pp102-3; Norling
Centre, Norzin Lam).

Postage Stamps
Bhutan Post occupies the northern half of a
large building on Dremton Lam, a back road
north of the cinema. The Philatelic Bureau (Map
pp102-3; %322296; Dremton Lam) here has a counter that sells stamps and souvenir sheets of
Bhutanese stamps. There is also a tiny shop

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on the ground floor of Hotel Tandin (p109),

which has a small selection of postcards and
unusual stamps.

Trekking Equipment
If you are missing a piece of gear for your
trek, try Sachak Enterprise (Map pp102-3; %333880;
Centre Mall, Norzin Lam) for good Nepalese copies
of brand-name gear. Namgyel Tyres (Map pp102-3;
%325311; Gatoen Lam) stocks hiking boots and is
your best bet for larger sizes. There are also a
few shops around town that sell Bangladeshimade fleece jackets, hats and pants at bargain
prices look for the shops full of cardboard
boxes stacked with clothes.

GETTING THERE & AWAY

The journey to/from Phuentsholing took up
to 10 days before the road was completed in
1962. It now takes six hours. See p155 for
details of the drive.

Bus
The long-distance bus station is below the
east end of the bridge (zampa) at the southern
end of town. Here you can find numerous
crowded buses (vomit comets) to Paro (Nu
35), Phuentsholing (Nu 110; Coaster Nu 170)
and other destinations throughout the country (see p265 for more details).

GETTING AROUND
If you are on a normal tourist visa, you will
have a car/minibus, driver and guide available
throughout your stay in Bhutan, and youll
have little trouble getting around. Most shops
and points of interest are within easy walking
distance of Thimphus major hotels; its easy
to pop out for a drink or a round of shopping
on foot.

To/From the Airport

You can book a taxi at the tea stall outside
Paro airport at a fixed rate of Nu 800 to Thimphu. It is 53km from the airport to Thimphu;
the journey takes less than two hours.
If your tour operator has not arranged
transport for your departing flight, the most
reliable way is to have your hotel arrange a vehicle. Arrange your transport well in advance.
If you have an early-morning flight from Paro
(and most are), youre recommended to spend
the night in Paro. Druk Air closes the counter
an hour before flight time and wont reopen
it if youre late.

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A R O U N D T H I M P H U N o r t h o f T h i m p h u 115

Bus

Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal lived here

after he arrived in 1616 because this temple
appeared in the vision that directed him from
Tibet to Bhutan. A well-respected astrologer is
in residence and frescoes here are said to have
been painted by the Zhabdrung.

A public bus service operates throughout

Thimphu between 7.30am and 7.30pm from
a starting point at the parking area on Chang
Lam. Fares are Nu 1 to 9 depending on the
distance travelled. In addition to several city
routes, the buses also operate to Dechenchoeling in the north and Simtokha and Babesa
to the south. Routes, fares and timetables are
available at www.bhutanpost.com.bt.

Taxi
Most of the taxis are tiny Maruti minivans
with meters that the drivers rarely use. The
taxi stand is on Chang Lam, although you
can flag down an empty taxi in the street. Taxi
drivers have a habit of charging foreigners, including Indians, as much as they can one of
Bhutans few flagrant rip-offs. You should be
able to hire a taxi for the whole day for about
Nu 500, and local trips should cost between
Nu 40 and 60 in a shared taxi.

AROUND THIMPHU
NORTH OF THIMPHU
As you travel up the east side of the Wang
Chhu, north of Lungten Zampa and past the
Riverview Hotel, youll eventually pass the
SAARC building (National Assembly), which
overlooks the dzong. On the opposite side of
the river you may catch a glimpse of Samtenling Palace, the cottage that is the kings residence. A short distance north is the suburb of
Taba where the Forestry Institute has its offices
and you can stay at the atmospheric Taba Resort

Dechenphu Lhakhang
Dechenphu Lhakhang is a 2km drive on a
rocky road up a side valley from a turn-off
near Dechenchoeling, then a short climb up a
stone staircase to an elevation of about 2660m.
The imposing, tall red goenkhang is dedicated
to the powerful deity Gyenyen and is said to
be able to supply armour and weapons for an
endless number of soldiers. Unesco financed
a project to restore many of the paintings in
the adjoining goemba.

Tango Goemba & Cheri Goemba

Continuing up the valley the road crosses to
the east side of the Wang Chhu at Begana,
near a training facility operated by the electricity department and a large gold-painted
petroglyph of Chenrisig on a rock beside
the road. There are no restaurants or shops

AROUND
THIMPHU
Cheri

hu

ng

o
ng

Ro

Ch

Ta

Drolay Goemba
Begana

Dechenphu
Lhakhang

Pangri
Zampa

Karbisa
Dechenchoeling
Dechenchoeling
Palace
Taba

Phajoding Goemba

Trashi Chhoe Dzong

Hongtsho

Thujidrag
Goemba

Motithang
Thimphu

See Thimphu
Map (p99)
To Tsaluna

Thadranang
Goemba

To
Dochu La (11km);
Punakha (66km)

Lungtenphu

Simtokha Dzong
Babesa
Royal
Chamgang
Botanical
Gangchen Garden
Talakha
W
Nyezergang
Goemba
Namseling Lhakhang

hu

g
an

Pangri Zampa
North of Dechenchoeling and east of Dechenphu Lhakhang is Pangri Zampa, two imposing
white buildings in a grove of giant cypress
trees. Founded in the early 16th century,

6 km
4 miles

Dodina

(Map p99; %323532; htlwchuk@druknet.bt; off Dechen Lam;

s/d from Nu 1530/1950). The resort is associated

with the Wangchuk Hotel in town and boasts

a restful, pine-forest location, mineral spring,
hot-stone baths and a private goemba built on
the ruins of a former palace. There are great
valley views from the balconied rooms.
The large Dechenchoeling Palace is some
distance north of the dzong. It was built in
1952 and is the official residence of the queen
mother. North of the palace is the Royal Body
Guard (RBG) facility.

0
0

Cheri
Goemba Tango
Ch
Goemba
h

Gida
Old
Hydroelectricity
Plant
Kharibje

Ch

Khasadrapchhu

To
Chhuzom (21km);
Paro (43km)

Talakha Peak (4280m)

THIMPHU

THIMPHU

114 T H I M P H U G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y

THIMPHU

lonelyplanet.com

nearby. If you plan a full-day excursion to

either Tango Goemba or Cheri Goemba, bring
a water bottle and a packed lunch.
A few kilometres beyond Begana, 12km
from Thimphu, a road leads east and climbs
a short distance to a parking lot. The trail to
Tango Goemba is a climb of 280m and takes about
half an hour if you follow the steeper shortcut,
or about an hour if you take the longer, more
gradual trail. Lama Gyalwa Lhanampa founded
the goemba in the 12th century. The present
building was built in the 15th century by the
divine madman, Lama Drukpa Kunley (see
p136). In 1616 Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal visited Tango Goemba and meditated in
a cave nearby. The head lama, a descendent of
Lama Drukpa Kunley, presented the goemba
to the Zhabdrung, who carved a sandalwood
statue of Chenresig, which he installed in the
monastery.
The picturesque three-storey tower and
several surrounding buildings were built in
the 18th century by the eighth desi (secular
ruler), Druk Rabgye. The Zhabdrung Jigme
Chhogyel added the golden roof in the 19th
century. Tango is the residence of an important young trulku (reincarnate lama) who is
recognised as the seventh reincarnation of the
highly respected fourth desi, Gyalse Tenzin
Rabgye, whose previous incarnation passed
away in 1830.
A short distance beyond the turn-off to
Tango Goemba the road ends at Dodina (elevation 2600m). A walk of about one hour
leads to Cheri Goemba (Cheri Dorji Dhen). The
trail starts by crossing a lovely covered bridge
that spans the Wang Chhu, and then climbs
steeply to the monastery where there are tame
deer and soaring birds. Zhabdrung Ngawang
Namgyal built this goemba in 1620 and established the first monk body here. A silver
chorten inside the goemba holds the ashes of
the Zhabdrungs father.

built and reconsecrated in 2001 under the

sponsorship of Lyonpo Jigme Thinley.

SOUTH OF THIMPHU
A road leads uphill from Babesa to the Royal
Botanical Garden at Serbithang, which was inaugurated in 1999 and has a collection of 500
species of plants. Its a favourite picnic spot
of Thimphu residents and has an information
centre that sells seedlings and medicines from
the medicinal-plants project.
South of Babesa a steep gravel road leads
1.3km uphill to the Gangchen Nyezergang
Lhakhang, an ancient lhakhang that was re-

Simtokha
Simtokha is about 5km south of Thimphu on
the old road to Paro and Phuentsholing. The
junction with the road to eastern Bhutan is
just before Simtokha.
In the valley below the road are the EUfunded plant-and-soil-protection project
and the large, red-roofed Royal Institute of
Management.
SIMTOKHA DZONG

Officially known as Sangak Zabdhon Phodrang (Palace of the Profound Meaning of

Secret Mantras), Simtokha Dzong was built in
1629 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. It is
often said to be the first dzong built in Bhutan.
In fact, there were dzongs in Bhutan as early
as 1153, but this is the first dzong built by the
Zhabdrung, is the oldest dzong that has survived as a complete structure, and is the first
structure to incorporate both monastic and
administrative facilities. It is the home of the
Institute for Language and Culture Studies; the
students are both monks and lay people.
The site is said to have been chosen to
guard over a demon that had vanished into
the rock nearby, hence the name Simtokha,
from simmo (demoness) and do (stone). Conveniently, the site is also an excellent location
from which to protect the Thimphu valley and
the valley leading to the Dochu La and eastern
Bhutan. The dzong is about 60m square and
the only gate is on the south side. (Though the
original gate was on the west side.)
The utse is three storeys high and behind
the usual prayer wheels around the outside
there is a line of more than 300 fine slate carvings with painted faces depicting saints and
philosophers. The large central figure in the
central lhakhang is of Sakyamuni; he is flanked
by images of eight Bodhisattvas: Jampelyang,
Chana Dorje, Chenresig, Jampa, and the lessfamiliar Sai Hingpo (Shritigarva), Dupa Nampasel, Namkhe Hingpo (Akash Garva) and
Kuentu Zangpo. The paintings inside this lhakhang are said to be some of the oldest and
most beautiful in Bhutan. One of the lhakhangs,
Gen Khang, may be visited only by the lamas.
In the west lhakhang chapel are paintings of
Chenresig, green and white Taras, and an early
painting of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal,
which was restored and cleaned in 1995. Large

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A R O U N D T H I M P H U D a y W a l k s A r o u n d T h i m p h u 117

DAY WALKS AROUND THIMPHU

In addition to the walks to Tango Goemba (p115) and Cheri Goemba (p115), there are good day
walks to monasteries and lookout points near Thimphu. You cannot go into the monasteries, but
most are architecturally interesting and command good views of the valley. The Royal Society
for Protection of Nature (RSPN) has published Mild and Mad Day Hikes Around Thimphu by Piet
van der Poel & Rogier Gruys, with details of 27 hikes as well as numerous alternatives and side
trips. You can also download it from www.bhutan-trails.org/index.html. As the title suggests, the
hikes range from easy walks to the 25km Thimphu to Paro Punishment Trail. It is important to
remember that many of these hikes pass meditation cells near monasteries. Dont shout, disturb
them or knock on the door to ask for directions.

Drolay Goemba
Its a two- to three-hour round trip from the parking lot below Tango Goemba to Drolay Goemba
at 3400m. The walk offers amazing views of the Thimphu valley and you can combine it with a
walk to Tango Goemba.

Lungchuzekha Goemba
The best easy walk in the area is a three- to four-hour round trip from Dochu La to Lungchuzekha
Goemba. It affords excellent views of the Bhutan Himalaya and you can return via the same route
or descend to Trashigang Goemba and Hongtsho. From the 108 chortens the trail gradually climbs
into red, white and pink rhododendron forest for 1 hours with some steep sections, before
branching left to Longchuzekha Goemba and right to Trashigang. Combine with dawn views
from Dochu La for a great half-day excursion or do it after a morning visit to Punakha.

Phajoding Goemba
It is a 5km walk uphill from the youth centre in Motithang to Phajoding Goemba (3640m), a large
monastic complex with 10 lhakhangs and 15 monastic residences, many of them used for extended
meditation retreats. It was founded in the 13th century by Togden Pajo, a yogi from Tibet, who
was searching for a place of meditation. Most of the buildings were constructed in 1748 through
the efforts of Shakya Rinchen, the ninth Je Khenpo, whose image is the central figure in the main
Khangzang Lhakhang here. The monastic school is housed in the Jampa Lhakhang and offers a
more secluded environment than the Dechen Phodrang School in Thimphu.
From Phajoding you can ascend another 300m to Thujidrag Goemba. This is the last day of
the Druk Path Trek in reverse. See p212 for details.

Talakha Goemba
The 15th-century Talakha Goemba (3080m) offers spectacular views of the Bhutan Himalaya and
Thimphu valley. You can drive part way and then set out on foot. From the small goemba you
can make a strenuous six- to nine-hour hike up to the 4280m Talakha peak.

Thadranang Goemba
Another strenuous two-hour uphill hike leads to Thadranang Goemba (3270m). Start at the
Yangchenphug High School and climb steeply up the ridge through a blue-pine forest.

Trashigang Goemba
Its two hours from the hillside below Hongtsho to Trashigang Goemba (3200m). This goemba was
built in 1786 by the 12th Je Khenpo. It is an important meditation centre and there are numerous
small houses for pilgrims near the goemba. In addition to about 16 monks, there are a few anims (Buddhist nuns). Inside the lhakhang there are statues of several Je Khenpos who meditated here.

Wangditse Goemba
An easy one-hour walk with great views of Thimphu that takes you from the telecom tower to
Wangditse Goemba, which was founded in 1750 by the attendants of Bhutans eighth desi, Druk
Rabgye, and renovated in 2001. The lhakhang houses the statues of the guardian deities Yeshey
Goenpo (Mahakala), Palden Lhamo (Mahakali) and Tsheringma (the goddess of longevity).

THIMPHU

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THIMPHU

118 A R O U N D T H I M P H U S o u t h o f T h i m p h u

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paintings of mandalas and the guardians of the

four directions adorn the gorikha (porch).
During its construction Simtokha Dzong
was attacked by a coalition of Tibetans and
five Bhutanese lamas who were opposed to
the Zhabdrungs rule. The attack was repelled
and the leader of the coalition, Palden Lama,
was killed. In 1630 the Tibetans again attacked and took control of the dzong. The
Zhabdrung regained control when the main
building caught fire and the roof collapsed,

killing the invaders. Descriptions of the original Simtokha Dzong were provided by the two
Portuguese Jesuit priests who visited here in
1629 on their way to Tibet.
Expansion and restoration of the dzong
was performed by the third Druk Desi,
Mingyur Tenpa, in the 1670s after Tibetan
invaders attacked it in 1630. It has been enlarged and restored many times since, most
recently by a Japanese team of builders and
architects.

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