PHYSICAL GEOLOGY

CHAPTER 14
SHORELINES
NOTES

As we look at shorelines we see two major processes at work:

a)
b)
Both are the result of wave and tidal action.
Waves are

Tides are

What are the parts of a “typical” water wave?

Crest is
Trough is

Wave height is

Wave length is

Wave base is

The depth of the wave base is half the wavelength.

Wave period is

Wave height and wavelength depend on the following conditions: 1)wind speed,
2)direction of the wind, and 3)fetch.

As the energy of a wave increases its height increases. A point may be reached
where the wave’s top falls. This is called a whitecap.

Once a wave is generated, it continues on even though the energy sources has
stopped (wind).

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Many times waves continue until they reach a shoreline. The waves we see at
the shoreline are a complex combination of waves from different sources.

The motion of particles in a wave is circular, whereas the direction is linear.

The energy given the water is not only along the surface, but is transmitted
downward.
In the space below make a sketch showing how wave motion/energy diminishes
with depth.

As a wave enters shallow water the bottom of the wave (wave base) drags.
The bottom of the wave slows down due to friction. The top maintains the
same velocity. The wave eventually becomes top heavy and falls over. This
creates breakers.

Waves are excellent agents of erosion. (especially during storms)

Waves erode in three main ways.
1)Pressure from waves crashing into rocks. Water is forced into cracks when a
wave comes in this produces tons of pressure.
2)Abrasion from loose material being moved back and forth in waves causes
erosion.
3)Loose material is washed away.

Sediments are trasnsported along a shoreline by currents and wave action.

As waves enter shallow water, their speed decreases and they are bent. This
bending of waves is called refraction. Refraction causes waves to hit the shore
at an angle, rather than straight on.

Headlands (piece of land that sticks out into the ocean) are attacked by wave
erosion due to refraction. Headlands tend to erode at a faster rate than
straight shorelines.

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Sediments migrate parallel to shore in a zig-zag patern. This is called beach
drift or longshore drift.
sketch beach drift below

Refracted waves also cause longshore currents.

Wave erosion and deposition create several shoreline features. Label the
features on the following diagram. Define each feature below.
Wave cut terrace

sea stack

notch

wave built terrace

sea cliff

sea arch

sea cave

baymouth bar

tombolo

spit

hook

bay

lagoon

barrier island

offshore bar

Compare the east coast of the U.S. with the west coast of the U.S.

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Shorelines are different for several reasons.
1)Location to a sediment source (rivers)
2)tectonic activity (uplift vs subsidence)
3)Topography (steep vs low lying)
4)Rock types (resistant vs nonresistant)
5)winds and weather

These factors also create problems for humans living near the shore:
1)movement of sand and 2)building.

Jetties are constructed to control the movement of sand.

Building on a barrier island or within a storm berm creates problems during

storms. See page 312 and 313.

Sea level has been rising for the past few thousand years. (Probably due to
melting ice from warming temperatures.)
This affects low lying areas differently than coasts with steep topography.

As we look at shorelines today we see that some are submergent (flooded)

others are emergent (higher than present day sea level).

Esturary is a flooded river valley. And fjord is a flooded glacial valley.

Tides also cause changes along shoreline.

There are two types of tides: a)Neap tides (higher) and b)spring tides (lower)

Draw each:

Tide fluctuation creates several phenomena.

1)Tidal flat is a broad flat area coverd by the ocean at high tide and
exposed to the air at low tide.
2)Currents are created by tides. Ebb currents are seaward and flood
currents are landward.
3)Tidal deltas