How I Made My Own Plasma Cutter From Junk (Corrected Version)

How I Made My Own
Plasma Cutter From Junk
By Joe Eichholz
Table of Contents
How I began Making My Plasma Cutter

Page 1
When I started assembling my cutter, I began with taking a good look at my parts. As
shown in Section 5 and Section 6, my parts are laid out so I can begin checking off from
my parts list. Once this was accomplished, I would study each the parts pictorial to get
familiar with each part/component and they would be placed.
The next step was to study my schematic and create a layout diagram. My board layout
diagram is the most valuable piece in the building, repairing, and modifying process of
my cutter.
As I began mounting my parts, I organized my board into four sections. Those sections
are Power Control, High Current DC, Low Voltage DC and High Voltage Arc Start.
Power Control
3KVA step down transformer and contactor. The transformer is mounted off board
because it is big and heavy, as you can see in Section 13. The contactor became my first
part on the board. I wired it so when the head trigger is pressed, it turns the contactor on
and allows my DC components to come on line. Then I began with my next system,
High Current DC.
High Current DC
Bridge Rectifier
Large Capacitors
Reed Switch (which I used as a current sensor), what it does is allow the high voltage arc
system to fire and as soon as high current starts to travel to the head and cutting starts it
shuts down the high voltage arc system while cutting since its not needed at this point.
If you lose your fire it restarts the arc and gets you going again automatically.
My next system was placed on board.
Low Voltage DC
The low voltage DC components are mixed with power switch and 120 volt terminals.
Power Switch
120-volt terminal blocks
12 volt transformer
Low voltage bridge rectifier
Auto relays
Terminal strip, 4 position is all I needed but 5 position was what I had in my toy box.
High Voltage Arc Start
Microwave capacitor or run capacitor, a household dimmer switch rated for 15 amps. A
Ford or Chevy ignition coil. I used the Chevy on this cutter. As you can see, I have
terminals to all parts that get an external connection outside of their system so all I have
to do is run a piece of wire in-between. Now look at the pictorial of board mounted parts
in Section 11. It shows all the wires on the board, but here you can see all terminals and
parts mounted, as I wanted. When wiring all my components, I used my Chevy board
layout diagram to run my wires.
How I began
Page 2
I checked and re checked all wires before mounting external parts. If you go to the final
wiring section, you will also find pictures of my rigging of these parts. I could have done
it many different ways, but this is what I chose at this time.
It took me about 3 hours of procrastination to finally assemble it all. You know how it is
on a project, once you are ready with all your parts, your mind starts giving you a million
ways of doing something. And, at last you just pick a way and go with it.
Once I got it all together, I connected my air tank hose and put the pressure setting at 28
for a safe point to start. I fired it up and BAM - that baby didnt need any more adjusting.
It was cutting!
You can imagine all the relief and pride I felt when the Plasanator started kicking ass.
Yea, I said it Kicking Ass Baby. Oops Wife just told me I need to stop, hee hee and for
all you creators ah ah ah ahhhhhh.
I hope you enjoyed riding along with me in my journey.
Take care and be safe.
The Plasmaman
Introduction
Parts
Pictorial
Chevy Coil
Schematic
Chevy Board
Layout
Ford Coil
Schematic
Ford Board
Layout
View of Board
Mounted
Components
Power Control
3 KVA step down
Transformer
120 volt Primary

240 volt Secondary
Slides 13/14
Transformer
Connections to Board
Terminals
High
Current
Section
Slides 16-22
Low Voltage
Power
Section
Slides 24/25
Relay Terminal
Connections
by Color
Slides 26-30
Ground Lead to
Head Terminal
Chevy Coil Stud

Assembly
High Voltage
Arc Start
System
Connections
Slides 34/35
120 Volt Power Lead to Relays

For Air Solenoid & Arc Start
Slides 36-38
Arc Tip wire

Assembly
Plasma Head Hose

Assembly
page 1
Plasma Head Hose

Assembly
page 2
Final wiring
of
External Mounted Parts,
like the
Head,
Water Heater Element,
Air Solenoid & Air
Regulator
&
Work Clamp
Slides 43-47
HomemadeTerminal
LocostUSA.com View topic - DIY Plasma Cutter - 3/8 capable and und...
botbasher
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=9306
Post subject: DIY Plasma Cutter - 3/8 capable and under $100
Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 2:41 am
OK.. as I promised a while ago, I thought it was about time for the DIY plasma Cutter to have its own
posts!
Joined: Sat May 02, 2009

1:03 pm
Posts: 924
Location: The Humid State of
North Carolina
I must point out that the plans shown here are for educational purposes only. The use of HV A/C and
HV D/C can kill instantly and should only be attempted by person knowledgeable of it. The plasma
used in this equipment is anywhere from 25-50K degrees F and can inflict severe burns. Plasma cutters
also shoot molten metal (NOT SPARKS) and present a severe fire danger. Proceed to read these with
extreme caution and awareness of your surroundings.
Now on with the fun!!!

I started off searching for plans on the internet after hearing rumors of a working DIY plasma cutter. I
found a crude hand drawn version from a YouTUBE video and though I'd try it. After gathering the
parts and piecing it together, you can imagine my surprise when it wouldn't even fire off! Here is that
initial drawing.
So after a bit more searching... isn't the web wonderful?.. I found a set of plans that looked a bit more
complicated but more promising. The end result was the same. The failures had a benefit though... as
I was going through each of these, I was learning more and more about plasma and how to generate it
and how to use it. Here is that drawing.
1 of 15
12/7/2014 10:05 PM
So after multiple failures, I was getting desperate. While searching for the plans for the DIY PC, I
stumbled across someone selling "plans" for a working PC. There were even slick videos of him and his
creation cutting all kinds of things. So after thinking about it and not wanting to give up on the idea of
my own PC and at $10 for the plans, how could I miss!
So I sent him my $$$ and received my plans. 30 minutes later I was in the garage tracing out wires and
arranging components. You can imagine my utter devastation when I hit the switch for the first time
and got... NADA! Out of 100's of attempts, I could get it to start and cut maybe 3 times. and those cuts
were short. Here are what some of the first cuts looked like.
Now I was pissed... after months of trying and finally conceding that I needed true "plans" to build this
thing... they were useless! Someone was going to hear about this!!!
_________________
Don't ever become a pessimist. A pessimist is correct oftener than an optimist, but an optimist has
more fun, and neither can stop the march of events.-Robert A. Heinlein
2 of 15
Add yourself to the Locost Builders Map!
12/7/2014 10:05 PM
Jigsaws, Hacksaws... There is a better way! Want to get creative with metal? Want a Plasma Cutter
but can't justify spending the $? Check out a DIY Plasma Cutter! A true LOCOST way!
Top
botbasher
Post subject: Re: DIY Plasma Cutter - 3/8 capable and under $100
OK... so I contacted the "designer" and told him of my issues with his "plans" and asked for some help
determining the issues. I was told that since I didn't use the exact components he did it wouldn't work.
Now it's been a few years since Electronic school, but I still remember how to make a full wave bridge
rectifier from diodes and the difference between a 12v AC rectified to 12vd DC supply instead of my
computer power supply with 12v output is what?? Nothing.. thats right! Below is what he told me I had
to have!
1:03 pm
Posts: 924
North Carolina
3 of 15
12/7/2014 10:05 PM
So after going round and round with him uselessly via email, I decided to try and determine where it
was going wong and correct it. After all.. I could get it to fire off if I started the arc manually.. it just
was impossible to keep it going long enough to make "cuts" of any measure.
Does everyone know how a plasma cutter works? For the new guys in the back... A plasma cutter is a
HUGE short circuit. I'll spare you the intimate details (go here for some basics on it) but it's akin to arc
welding but you blow the arc into the metal and that plasma melts the metal, the air blows it away
and then the process starts over again.
To start the arc you need to ionize the air, basically making it conductive, so that the capacitor bank
can discharge across it and generate up to 45000 degrees F to melt any conductive material put
against it.
My problem was that the arc was shorting into the DC of the capacitors and not across the tips as it
should. No matter how I advanced or delayed it... isolated it or not.. I could not get it to work. My
only success was when I disconnected the tip wire and held it in front of it. It would then "jump" out of
the tip and start cutting. But plasma cutting involves the arc going out quite often, so this lead to
some frustrating times!
In a fit of madness, I tore apart the whole system and started over.. adding only one system at a time.
It was while talking with my partner from Battlebots that we hit the mother lode. If it was arcing to
ground... lets move the place where the arc starts! The rest is history! We took the High Voltage wire
from the coil and ran it to the tip instead of the rectifier. I touched the tip and a fraction of a second
later it was spitting plasma and cutting like a champ! That was it! A single wire change and we were
cutting!
So here is the schematic. Changed to reflect the wiring that actually works. You'll notice that the only
change to the entire setup is in the lower left corner!
4 of 15
12/7/2014 10:05 PM
That's it! That's all it took to turn my pile of parts into a working Plasma Cutter.
Now I had to make it pretty!
_________________
Last edited by botbasher on Mon Jun 14, 2010 3:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
Top
botbasher
Now.. I guess I should show you how it started off and what it eventually turned into.
As I was "basically" following his plans to start with, I simply laid everything on a board... wired as
needed.. and worried about "pretty" later.
Here is what my initial board looked like:
1:03 pm
Posts: 924
North Carolina
5 of 15
12/7/2014 10:05 PM
Once I got everything to where I was sure it was working, then I could concentrate on making it
pretty... what's that? How did I do it for $100? Well, kinda the same way Uncle Chapman built his car
for $250 pounds.... just plain dumb luck and a bit of outside the box thinking!!
Read on for more details....
6 of 15
A lot of the stuff I used came from my stockpile at home or my other favorite place to live.. the
Surplus Store!! The thing that really started me off on this kick was one visit to one of my favorite
local stores, I found a bag (literally a bag) of caps. 400v 330uF strobe caps. Really what that means to
this is that they are designed for repetitive violent discharges.. perfect for a Plasma Cutter. The 12/7/2014 10:05 PM
A lot of the stuff I used came from my stockpile at home or my other favorite place to live.. the
Surplus Store!! The thing that really started me off on this kick was one visit to one of my favorite
local stores, I found a bag (literally a bag) of caps. 400v 330uF strobe caps. Really what that means to
this is that they are designed for repetitive violent discharges.. perfect for a Plasma Cutter. The
price... $10 for 20... I bought all he had! Still have enough for a second set-up!
The valve.. normally a sprinkler valve, can be had for below $20 at Home Depot. I happen to have it it
from my days of Spud Guns! The fact that it's 24v is a plus as I down rated all the initial components to
a common voltage to eliminate the various voltages (120v, 12v, 24v) that are in his design.
The contactor was a steal (near literally) from another surplus house.. It's 24v and 4 pole 40A with a 4
pole Auxiliary on top. I got the whole thing, after the kid behind the counter couldn't figure out what
it was, for $20!! It's normally a $500 contactor and that's without the $150 Aux switch. What does that
mean to this though? Well, instead of having all those relays switching air, and the HV and etc... I can
have a single component that controls it all. If your building one, I highly recommend pairing down the
components and making life simpler!!
Since I work in Commercial Kitchens, I ended up with a spare booster heater element years ago...
don't know why I kept it, but glad I did! It turns 130 degree water into 190 degree water in minutes.
This particular one is 9kW at 208v. It has a resistance of 5.4 ohms. It gets WAY too hot to leave
exposed. I got a 5 gal bucket from Home Depot with a lid. Cut a hole in the lid and filled it with water
and stuck the element in. It's a temp solution. I'm looking at various other mfgs to find a element that
will work for our needs. Once I have that, I'll update the parts list.
The biggest cost was uncontrollable. I had to have high amp Rectifiers. Ebay supplied those for $30.
When your looking for these, make sure they are rectifier paks and not SCRs!! Won't work the same
despite looking identical! If you can find a FULL WAVE RECTIFIER, then go for it, but it's not necessary.
You can get two HALF WAVE BRIDGE RECTIFIERS and pair them up. Just make sure they are 100%
identical or you'll have an imbalance that could destroy either one.
The piece de resistance was the case! While at my fav store again, I knocked over a stack of boxes and
under them was a pair of HF radio boxes. I knew it was perfect so I picked it up for $20!
What does it look like you ask? Read on...
_________________
Last edited by botbasher on Mon Jun 14, 2010 7:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Top
botbasher
So without further adieu... I present the finished DIY Plasma Cutter!!

1:03 pm
Posts: 924
North Carolina
7 of 15
12/7/2014 10:05 PM
The torch tip was a eBay special I picked up a few years back when I saw the auction ending and
couldn't resist the $15+5 shipping for it! It was a foolish bet, but it paid off!
I have since upgraded it to a ESAB unit. A PT-31 (now using the long tips) to be exact, and I highly
suggest you don't skimp here if at all possible. It's worth a few extra bucks for the accuracy of the cuts
and quality of the handle!
The indicators on the cover have never been finished (maybe after the cars done) but it's operation is
so simple they are not really necessary!
The tip is the heart of this beast and tends to generate the most issues besides the supply voltages..
let me cover both...
I ran the HV Arc Start line inside the protective sheath, into the handle and simply drilled a little hole
on top to exit. It then wraps around the head to where I have it zip tied in place. I wrapped it around
a piece of SS TIG filler wire which I bent around the tip. This works AWESOME! The only thing to watch
for is shorting out the HV Arc Start. You'll notice that it's UNDER the head? Because when it's on the
side and you use a piece of steel as a guide, it shorts out and you can't start the cut! Yeah... took me
a little wile to figure out just WTF was going on there! After I moved it under the head (simply rotated
it) I haven't had any more issues!
BE AWARE: if you are playing with it and do not give the HV anywhere to ground to... it will bite your
butt! Ask me how I know! That is why it's in the sheath and doesn't exit till the very top!!
8 of 15
12/7/2014 10:05 PM
OK, Power Supply concerns..... VERY VALID CONCERN... but simple to dispel.
Yes... I left out the isolation transformer. I have played with and built Tesla Coils (1.5 million Volts 34" arcs) so I am fully prepared for voltage concerns. Leaving out the iso didn't worry me. I was
intending on putting it in, but I found something odd. It makes sense now... but only after you see it
happening.
I have actually touched the work... while cutting... without any ill effect. Do I suggest you do this...
NO WAY.. not without an isolation transformer... but it got me thinking and looking at just what was
going on.
9 of 15
You are converting AC to DC with the Bridge Rectifiers, right? In full wave, there is no direct path to
the mains if all the components are working.. Electronics 101. I have measured the frequency of the
work clamp (positive) in reference to earth ground.. I get 0 Hz. I have measured the tip (negative)
to
12/7/2014
10:05 PM
You are converting AC to DC with the Bridge Rectifiers, right? In full wave, there is no direct path to
the mains if all the components are working.. Electronics 101. I have measured the frequency of the
work clamp (positive) in reference to earth ground.. I get 0 Hz. I have measured the tip (negative) to
ground.. yep 0 Hz.. there is no measurable AC voltage at any point past the Rectifier. DC doesn't jump
and needs a very conductive path (sweaty wet hands...) to move.
I have touched the clamp to earth ground.. NADA! The tip, unless arcing, is internally isolated by the
design of the head, but when disassembled.. it won't short to ground either! Does this mean it's safe to
lick the ends... I would advise against it. My rule of thumb here has been to treat it as I treat a arc
welder. Yes.. the tips are live and can zap you, but won't unless you do something abnormal.
It's your decision as to how you build it.. do I suggest you forgo a portion of the safety in this circuit..
NOPE! Can it work and be acceptably safe without it.. I believe so.. but you make your own choice!
Well, that's it for my lecture... I present this to you in the spirit of LOCOST!!! If you do build one.. be
safe and smart about it. I kid you not.. the caps can store several kilo-joules worth of energy.. plenty
to blow a hand off without even fully discharging! And they will self generate... recharge themselves
without anything attached to them!!! BE SMART AND BE SAFE!!! If you don't know HV equipment.. find
a friend that does before you start! I can't stress that enough!!
Any questions or help required to figure something out.. Just let me know! Happy to help!
KS
_________________
Last edited by botbasher on Mon May 14, 2012 1:27 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Top
gtivr4
Cool. Although the schematics don't mean too much to me (which means I definitely shouldn't attempt
to make my own!) Any pictures of the final machine?
Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2007
1:17 pm
Posts: 552
Top
botbasher
gtivr4 wrote:
Cool. Although the schematics don't mean too much to me (which means I definitely shouldn't
attempt to make my own!) Any pictures of the final machine?
Final chapters coming.. it was just too late last night to keep posting!!
1:03 pm
Posts: 924
North Carolina
KS
_________________
10 of 15
12/7/2014 10:05 PM

Top
Driven5
Very interesting...Thanks for sharing!!

_________________
-Justin
Also follow my build on blogspot, tumblr, or instagram and twitter (GarageOdyssey)
Joined: Sat Apr 26, 2008 6:06

pm
Posts: 2261
Location: Under the weather.
(Seattle)
Top
McCheese
Very very nice!

Joined: Sun Oct 11, 2009
10:19 pm
Posts: 49
Top
botbasher
Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 9:30 pm
Here are a couple of pics of the quality and ability of it while cutting through 3/8 plate steel!

1:03 pm
Posts: 924
North Carolina
11 of 15
12/7/2014 10:05 PM
That long arc on the right is what is in the pic above and I managed it in two cuts (had to stop to put out
my shoe!).
The water was very warm after I finished, so I know that this is about the limit of it's ability!
KS
_________________
Don't ever become a pessimist. A pessimist is correct oftener than an optimist, but an optimist has more
fun, and neither can stop the march of events.-Robert A. Heinlein
Jigsaws, Hacksaws... There is a better way! Want to get creative with metal? Want a Plasma Cutter but
can't justify spending the $? Check out a DIY Plasma Cutter! A true LOCOST way!
Top
botbasher
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 12:57 am
KB58 wrote:
12 of 15
Without an isolation transformer, this is like giving instructions on how to make nitroglycerin. "As
long as you're careful, it's fine." Yes, but make one mistake... Worse, what if someone who's
12/7/2014 10:05 PM

1:03 pm
Posts: 924
North Carolina
Without an isolation transformer, this is like giving instructions on how to make nitroglycerin. "As
long as you're careful, it's fine." Yes, but make one mistake... Worse, what if someone who's
barefoot comes in while you're working and touches the far end of the welding table? Unless it's
just you in the garage, I have great reservations about the unit as-is. And yes, I am an electrical
engineer.
I did state clearly and repeatedly that I don't have and iso and do not suggest anyone follow that lead.
USE AN ISOLATION TRANSFORMER!! The plans that were supplied to me include it and were forwarded
unedited save the single wire change. Your concern is respected and duly noted.
KS
p.s. and yes... I do know how to make nitroglycerin and about half a dozen other kitchen sink
explosives. It's not that hard or that dangerous!
_________________
Top
McCheese
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 10:51 am
Can you post bigger schematics? Some of those are barely readable
Joined: Sun Oct 11, 2009
10:19 pm
Posts: 49
Top
botbasher
McCheese wrote:
Can you post bigger schematics? Some of those are barely readable
Some of them are originals and some are pdf clips.. which one are you asking about?
1:03 pm
Posts: 924
North Carolina
KS
_________________
Top
botbasher
After cutting a bunch of parts for a side project to help pay for some car parts, I started to wonder
about a phenomenon I started to see with the Plasma Cutter.
13 of 15
12/7/2014 10:05 PM
After cutting a bunch of parts for a side project to help pay for some car parts, I started to wonder
about a phenomenon I started to see with the Plasma Cutter.

1:03 pm
Posts: 924
North Carolina
When cutting a part out (thickness of material seems irrelevant) the slag tends to collect more on the
side of the piece with the ground clamp (actually positive) attached to it. Basically, if I was cutting a
circle out of the center of a square piece of steel, the slag would collect on the outside of the circle
(where the clamp is attached) and only barely on the cutout circle. Why is that?
I have taken to trying to make the cutoff portion of the part the thing I am keeping and noticed that
my clean-up time with each part went way down after doing so.
I'm thinking that it involves the basic electrical principal of electrons flowing from (-) to (+)
(depending on your teacher) and depositing them on the (+) side as they are blow out, but since the
entire piece is at relatively the same potential until the very last mm is cut I'm at a lost to explain why
it's happening.
Has anyone else experienced this and is there anything you did that changes it? Can anyone explain
what causes it?
Inquiring minds want to know!
KS
_________________
Top
kf2qd
Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2010

6:14 pm
Posts: 86
Location: San Benito TX
Posted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 2:04 pm
The reason that the slag is staying attached to the larger piece may be that the piece you are cutting
off tends to ge hotter and slag is attaching to the cooler part. You might want to play with gas flows
and see if the quality of your cut improves.
ALSO - if you are using air as your plasma gas make sure to grind any cut surfaces you wish to weld to.
The nitrogen in the air forms compunds (nitrates or nitrides, its been a while...) that will create
porosities in the welds and substantially weaken them. Not a big problem, just clean up the surface
before welding.
Top
botbasher
Posted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 3:47 pm
kf2qd wrote:
The reason that the slag is staying attached to the larger piece may be that the piece you are
cutting off tends to ge hotter and slag is attaching to the cooler part....

1:03 pm
Posts: 924
North Carolina
14 of 15
I thought of that after I posted that example initially and tried a few different options, but all with
the same result.
While cutting a sheet of stainless for a heater box I tested these ideas out. No matter the size of the
piece (i.e. both would experience the same temps) the slag always deposits opposite the clamp (+).
Air pressure does change the resultant amount of slag, its always there though.
12/7/2014 10:05 PM
North Carolina
piece (i.e. both would experience the same temps) the slag always deposits opposite the clamp (+).
Air pressure does change the resultant amount of slag, its always there though.
It chips off very easily, my interest in it is limiting the time needed to dress up cut parts.
Thanks,
KS
_________________
15 of 15
12/7/2014 10:05 PM

How I Made My Own Plasma Cutter From Junk (Corrected Version)

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How I Made My Own

Plasma Cutter From Junk

How I began Making My Plasma Cutter

120 volt Primary

Chevy Coil Stud

120 Volt Power Lead to Relays

Arc Tip wire

Plasma Head Hose

Plasma Head Hose

Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 2:41 am

Joined: Sat May 02, 2009

Now on with the fun!!!

Add yourself to the Locost Builders Map!

Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 2:41 am

Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 2:42 am

Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 3:14 am

So without further adieu... I present the finished DIY Plasma Cutter!!

Joined: Sat May 02, 2009

Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 9:00 am

Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 9:44 am

Add yourself to the Locost Builders Map!

Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 9:55 am

Very interesting...Thanks for sharing!!

Joined: Sat Apr 26, 2008 6:06

Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 10:28 am

Very very nice!

Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 9:30 pm

Joined: Sat May 02, 2009

Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 12:57 am

Joined: Sat May 02, 2009

Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 10:51 am

Posted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 3:28 am

Posted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 3:41 am

Joined: Sat May 02, 2009

Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2010

Posted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 2:04 pm

Posted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 3:47 pm

Joined: Sat May 02, 2009

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