ISSN 1853-9610

MENDOZAS FREE MAGAZINE

N70 DEC - JAN 2015

contents
News Republic
Champion of Fizz..................................................... 7
The Mods are on a Wine Tour............................ 7
Water crisis .............................................................. 7

Coastal Escapade
Valparaso................................................................ 20
ConCn. / Via del Mar....................................... 21
Reaca / La Serena / Playa Luna...................... 22

Simply Flyfishing
Argentina,, a premier destination for
flyfishing...................................................................... 7
Slaugtherhouse Blues
The end of a golden era......................................... 8

Festive Season Wishlist

Tis the season to be jolly..................................... 24

Grape Shot
Do golf and wine go together?........................... 12
When the fog lifts
Wines in Casablanca............................................ 16

Out & Abbout

Dinning out..............................................................26
Winery Guide..........................................................28
Bars.............................................................................31
Maps & More
Useful information................................................33
Maps of Maip and Chacras de Coria.............33
Map of Mendoza City Center............................34

CREDITS
Issue Dec - Jan 2015 | ISSN 1853-9610 - 10,000
Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A.
Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento
3. Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613
E-mail: amanda@wine-republic.com
Editor: Charlie OMalley
Wine Editor: Amanda Barnes
Publicity and Publisher: Mariana Gmez Rus:
publicidad@wine-republic.com,
mariana@wine-republic.com
Design: Gimena Federici - Jona Conti.
jona@circlan.com. Circlan.com.
Printer: Artes Grficas UNION
Contributing Authors: Luke McMahon.
Illustrations: Donough OMalley,
www.pencilrobot.net
Opinions expressed in this magazine are not
necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine Republic.
www.wine-republic.com

NEWS REPUBLIC
Champions of Fizz
Its official. Argentines are the biggest Coke heads on the
planet. In one year they drink 44 litres of Coca Cola per
person man, woman and child. The figure is actually
a staggering 131 litres, when you take into account all
fizzy drinks consumed, making Argentina the gassiest
nation on Earth. Chile comes a distant second with
121 litres and Mexico third with 119. Such revelations
will come as no surprise to all of us who live here and
see the industrial quantities of black, sugared water
consumed at birthday parties, asados and family get
togethers. Coca Cola has 33.6% market share, compared
to a global average of 26%. No doubt such enthusiasm
for the American soda is piqued by the cocktail craze for
Fernet. If any of you have ever tried this Italian digestif
straight, its bitter taste (like liquid ear wax) warrants
lashings of Coca Cola and ice and it is the drink de riguer
in any nightclub across the country. The curious thing
is there are numerous brands of Fernet but the mixer
must always be Coca Cola a fortuitous coincidence for
the global corporation.

The Mods are on a

Wine Tour
There is nothing like a scooter to add some spice and
excitement to a holiday. This writer has fond memories
of hurtling around the Roman Coliseum with 300
other scooters whilst on an Italian outing. Now you

can do the same in Mendoza. For as little as 300 pesos

a day you can zip between wineries and fly past those
struggling wine cyclists. All you need is a credit card
and a driving license. Helmet provided for free. Check
out mendozarentamotos.com.ar. San Martin 373, Godoy
Cruz. Tel 261 424 7018.

Water Crisis
If anybody ever needed proof of climate change, just
point them to the wine industry. Because winemakers
and vineyard owners have to plan ahead for decades,
they are often the first to see future trends and one
of them is that the planet is getting hotter. The fact
than many French wineries are now buying up land in
the south of England is a sure sign that something is
amiss. Dom Perignon must be turning in his grave at
the thought that soon the finest bubbly will come from
Kent. In Mendoza, there are also some disturbing trends,
mostly concerning water supply. The huge dams that
supply the city and vineyards are drying up. Potrerillos
Lake and El Carrizal are now ringed by naked mud that
have not seen sunlight in decades. No doubt they will
be somewhat replenished as the summer melt begins
but river supply is estimated to be 65% less than what
was normal. Lack of snowfall is the main reason and
emergency action is required to confront the problem.
This requires more investment and better controls.
Amazingly, considering some of the wettest countries
in the World have water meters, Mendoza does not and
this leads to much wastage of what is the provinces
most precious commodity.

SIMPLY
FLYFISHING
Argentina is a premier destination for fly fishing, with
30-pound brown trout in Patagonia attracting the
most avid fishermen from around the World. People
pay up to $700 US a day for the privilege of saying
they fished in Argentine waters as it is often private,
in 4X4 vehicles with specialist equipment. Mendozas
local experts, Trout & Wine Tours (a sister company
of this magazine), have decided to devise a program
with a more accessible price. Simply Flyfishing cuts

away with the frills such as hearty lunches and luxury

transport. For the price of 1500 pesos per person (based
on 2 people), you can spend the day in beautiful Uco
Valley, fishing its mountain streams which this time
of year are hopping with brook trout. They may not
be the 30-pound Beasts of the Southern Wild but they
are alive and kicking and great fun to try and catch.
Contact Trout & Wine Tours, Espejo 266. Mendoza City.
Tel (0261) 4255613. www.troutandwine.com

SLAUGHTERHOUSE
BLUES

The holy
cow is
sacred no
more and
the beef
industry
is bust.
Charlie
OMalley
laments
the end of
a golden
era in
Argentina
8

The Belgians have their chocolate

and the French have their cheese. Yet
when it comes to beef, Argentina is in
a class of its own. Famous the World
over, Argentine steak is renowned
for its tenderness and taste and
commands premium prices on foreign
menus. The locals consume some 118
pounds per annum, man, woman and
child. To put that into context, beef
consumption in the States peaked
at 89 pounds back in 1975 and has
declined since. This country runs on
meat grills. Anybody who has lived
here is familiar with the experience
of walking down an urban street and
being stopped in their tracks by the
mouth-watering waft of a hidden
asado (Argentine barbecue). Im sure
even the occasional vegetarian has
instinctively froze and raised his
nose in the air, twitched his nostrils
and tried to divine now where is that
carnivore chow down.

Those cattle are in

cow heaven
The asado is a national institution, the
once chance the typical Argentine
city dweller can step out of his urban
bubble, arm himself with a spatula
and food tongs and imagine he is on
the pampas, riding the plains and

herding cattle. Those cattle are in

cow heaven. They roam over endless
prairies, feed on natural grass in the
perfect climate, with no chemicals,
no antibiotics and no stress. When
the time comes they merrily march
their tender loins off to the nearest
abattoir and submit to the human
dinner plate. The organic craze never
happened in Argentina. By default
and lucky coincidence, the meat is
already organic and everybody eats it
from the tar-faced road labourer to
the po-faced lawyer. No doubt, many
a local has consoled himself in recent
times, that despite the countrys many
problems, they still have the best beef
in the World and Argentines are the
greatest beef eaters.
Unfortunately,
the
reality
is
otherwise. Beef exports are down,
consumption has plummeted, prices
have quadrupled and the national
herd has dwindled. There has been a
seismic shift in how beef is produced
in Argentina over the past 20 years
and perhaps the most fundamental of
these changes is the fact that the cow
has been pushed from the pampas
and into the dreaded feedlot where it
is not fed grass but grain. Only 20% of
the beef on sale now has been raised
the traditional way and most of

that gets steered towards high-end

restaurants and upscale butchers
with more discerning customers.

farmer to change it back to livestock

pasture. Soya is just too easy. They
can literally phone it in.

One word can explain this disturbing

change soya. High demand from
Asia and windfall profits (despite a
hefty 35% government tax) has seen
this crop invade the rich prairies of
Eastern Argentina. There is a well
worn joke in farming circles:

Instead the locals are

going for chicken, pork
and, God forbid, salad

Most of the soya in

Argentina is planted in
Buenos Aires
by telephone
They call the soya plantation the
farmerless farm as it is quick and
easy to grow and requires little effort.
Many traditional cattle farmers have
succumbed to temptation as outside
companies offer hard cash up front to
move in, plow up their pastures and
plant soya. The cattle are wanted no
more and the herds are slaughtered
or moved to factory farms. Such a
momentous change is difficult to
reverse and despite the recent fall in
soya prices it is hard to see the cow
return to its traditional dominance in
the countryside. Once land has been
converted to crop growing it takes
several years of no earnings for the

In tandem with this development has

been a transformation in Argentine
eating habits. Spurred by higher
beef prices, a desire for variety and
a healthier diet, Argentines are no
longer the greatest meat eaters on
the planet. That laurel now rests on
Uruguays shoulders. Instead the
locals are going for chicken, pork
and, God forbid, salad. Whilst the
asado will never disappearm it is
very much a bromance with guys
converging around the parilla once
a week. Women now prefer sushi,
or pasta. Even the vegetarian has
lost his or her leper status and allvegetable delis are becoming more
and more frequent.
Apart from the grumbling of
dedicated cattlemen, this revolution
has been a silent one with little
protest from the greater population.
This is all the more surprising
considering the important place beef
occupies at the heart of the countrys

foundation. Remember, it wasnt the

Spanish that conquered Argentina.
They were routed by the Indians. No,
it was the humble cow. When the
half starved and spear tormented
conquistadores eventually gave
up and fled the River Plate in 1541,
they left behind some abandoned
heifers and some lucky bulls. Left
to their own devices on the huge
and fertile pampas and free of any
natural predators, this community of
bovines must have thought they had
died and went to cow heaven. They
copulated and multiplied, copulated
and multiplied, and grew into a
mammoth herd of 50 million, making
Argentina a republic of cows.
Of course the Spanish eventually
returned
and
exploited
this
development. Such a prodigious
amount of a valuable resource
gave the Europeans an economic
foothold and ability to stay. The
meat trade became the backbone
of the Argentine economy and the
country became an Agricultural
powerhouse.
Soya just doesnt have the same
romance, nor the same mouth
watering taste. Nor does it go so well
with Malbec.
9

10

Illustrations by Donough OMalley www.pencilrobot.net

11

GRAPE SHOT
Winston Churchill famously described golf as an
ineffectual attempt to direct an uncontrollable sphere
into an inaccessible hole with instruments ill-adapted
to the purpose. But the man who also said his absolute
sacred right was the drinking of alcohol before, after,
and if need be during all meals and the intervals
between them would surely have agreed that if you are
going to play golf, then a vineyard is the best possible
place to do it.
Mendozas dry arid plains and mammoth rock mountain
ranges may be the last place in the World youd think
you would find a golf course, but believe it or not, there
are several excellent places to take a shot at the grapes.

Algodon Wine Estates

Below I have listed the most accessible to visitors but I
shall start with the one that is the furthest away 3
hours south of Mendoza city, in the provinces second
city, San Rafael. Algodon Wine Estates is a 150,000 litre
capacity winery located in 300 hectares of grapevines,
fruit orchards and a wine lodge with a 9-hole golf course
weaving its way through the finca. The course is carefully
designed and exquisitely manicured field of dreams (or
nightmares, depending on your skill level) replete with
water hazards, lakes, trees and dog-legs.
www.algodonwineestates.com

Club Andino
Easily the most accessible golf course in Mendoza, Club
Andino is a 30-minute walk from downtown, located
in the magnificent Parque San Martin. It has 9 holes
with narrow fairways and fast greens bordered by tall
trees with the Pre-Cordillera mountain range in the
background. Built in 1926, it is one of the oldest courses
in Argentina and its 30s style clubhouse and restaurant
add to its pastoral splendour. Green fees are $50 US
(approximately 400 pesos) and clubs and trolleys are
available to rent. Reservations are not required on week
days and the club includes facilities such as a pool, gym
and basketball courts. Perfect for those with a spare
morning to pass.
Tel. 0261 4285410. www.golfclubandino.com.ar

12

Atamisque Golf
Uco. Part of Atamisque Winery and Resort, this 9-hole
course is set in a splendid bucolic oasis with 80-year
old trees planted by the famous French landscape
artist Carlos Thays. With Par 3 fairways, this little golf
gem is ideal for approach shots and putting. Next to the
secluded greens is a tiny clubhouse where the friendly
and professional management can provide very
special, intimate lunch events (reservations required).
The gorgeous stone winery can also be visited and
there is a charming restaurant that specializes in trout
procured from the onsite trout farm. Perfect for groups
of players and non-players who want to relax and play
in idyllic surroundings.
Tel. 0261 155 275336. www.atamisque.com

Club de Campo
The grand dame of Mendozas golf course, this expansive
18-hole course is a 15-minute drive from the city center,
located in the eastern district of Guaymallen. Opened
in 1974, it has hosted International events and players
such as Eduardo Romero and Angel Cabrera have teed
off from its lush grounds. Its flat fairways and difficult
greens are bordered by tall pine trees and a snow-topped
Andean background. Its green fees are somewhat steep
($100 US or approximately 800 pesos) but it does have
Mendozas only driving range which is open to the public
and charges a very reasonable 30 pesos for a basket of
50 balls. Other facilities include a large clubhouse and
terraced restaurant, tennis courts, gym and sauna. Club
de Camp is for those who take their golf seriously. Clubs
and trolleys are available to rent onsite.
Tel. 0261 431 5966. www.clubdecampomendoza.com

Tupungato Winelands
It was only a matter of time before Uco Valley got its
very own 18-hole golf course. What makes Tupungato
Winelands stand out is the irrigation is limited to the
fairways and greens and the course designers have
integrated native plants and grass within the overall
design. Add to this, 400 hectares of vineyard, arid
desert and dramatic rolling Andean landscape and you
have what must be one of the most unique golf projects
in South America. Located 90 minutes drive from
Mendoza City center in the district of Gualtallary (close
to Tupungato), the complex also boasts a residential area,
hotel, polo grounds and restaurant. This is country living
at its most deluxe and a must do for those lifestylers who
want golf, wine and gorgeous scenery.
www.tupungatowinelands.com

13

14

15

WHEN
THE
FOG
LIFTS
Of all the
wine joints
in all the
World,
Amanda
Barnes
checks out
Casablanca
Chile.
When Summer reaches its peak in
Mendoza you either need to find
a friend with a pool, or take a long
weekend over the border to Chiles
beaches. If you are heading across
the Andes on the way to the beach (a
journey which on a good day might
take just 6 hours, on a bad day might
take closer to 10) then there is one
wine region you really cant miss:
Casablanca.
While the name might conjure up
images of Humphrey Bogart in farflung Morocco, Chiles Casablanca
couldnt be more different. Bathed
in a cool white fog every morning,
Casablanca Valley 100kms west of
Santiago is quite unique to drive into.
Coming from the smog of Chiles
16

capital city, green hills emerge and

sunlight is ubiquitous until you hit
Casablanca. The valley is literally
swamped in white fog which rolls
in from the Pacific sea 30kms on the
West and doesnt usually clear up
until the afternoon.
This unusual microclimate along with
dangerous frosts, a water shortage
and little vegetation at first scared off
many Chilean winery owners who
usually plant in the sunny flat plains.
Visionaries like Pablo Morande took
the risk to plant there in the early
1980s believing that the cool mornings
would add greater complexity to wines
while maintaining good sugar and
acidity. When they started producing
good wines the rest of the industry
took notice and now Casablanca has
over 2,500 hectares of vines. It is best
known for its cool climate Sauvignon
Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
A trip through wine country in
Casablanca is full of variety from big
industrial wineries to small, boutique
operations. As you drive through
the valley there are a handful of big
wineries on the main Route 68 (all very
well signed)and nearby areas. Heres a
pick of some of the best to visit:

For families: El Cuadro

If you want to do some wine tasting
with your rug rats in tow, visit El
Cuadro. Tucked into the countryside
near the main road, there isnt actually
a winery on the property yet but
this vineyard draws in an impressive
number of visitors and rightly so with
their well honed tour and professional
staff. There is plenty to amuse
you and the kids for a few hours
including: a tour through the cava
with its enormous barrels and homage
to Bacchus;the incredible wine
museum which is decked out with
old machinery and life size models
demonstrating how wine was made
in years gone past; a horse drawn
carriage ride through the vineyards
and a walk through a specially
planted vine garden where you can
see, learn about and taste (in growing
season) 26 different varietals; wine
tasting accompanied by chocolate,
cheese and fruits; and a rodeo show
learning about the traditions of Chile
and watching gauchos run with cattle
on horses. Thats not even mentioning
the peacocks, royal carriage from

Versailles, chapel, restaurant and

fantastic Sauvignon Blanc Sour. El
Cuadro offers one of the best family
days out.
www.elcuadro.cl, Camino La Vinilla
km 14

For wine lovers: Casas del

Bosque
This state-of-the-art winery set on
sloping hillsides is one of the leading
producers in the region with many
international accolades behind it. A
tour of the winery reveals its modern
approach to precision winemaking
and there is an attractive restaurant
attached where you can enjoy the
great wines with organic and locally
sourced,
contemporary
Chilean
cuisine. Their part barrel fermented
Pequenas Producciones Sauvignon
Blanc is outstanding and all their
Syrah rocks.
www.casasdelbosque.cl,
Hijuela
2,
Ex-Fundo Santa Rosa

For a picturesque winery

lunch: Matetic
Nowhere else quite beats Matetics
stunning location: a rolling estate
and biodynamic farmland with vines
as far as the eye can see, a gorgeous
winery, and a restaurant on the middle
of a lake. The best way to taste their
impeccable wines is by indulging in a
lip-smacking lunch in their beautiful
restaurant. With views out into the

17

animals wander around the property.

Interestingly you can visit a small
underground chamber where they
make special preparations for the vines
such as chamomile, flower extracts
and quartz. Social Responsibility is
also a big part of Emiliana and a visit
includes seeing the local workers own
vegetable patch where they can grow
their own food while working on the
vines. The best way to finish with
the tasting is to try out their organic
cheese and chocolate pairing option.
www.emiliana.cl, Ruta 68, km 60.7

For convenience: Indomita

colourful and aromatic garden, the

setting is picture perfect as is the
food: try the sweet crab gratin with
salty Sauvignon Blanc, or the rich
Patagonian lamb with spicy Syrah.
Combine lunch with a visit to the
winery which is built into the side of
a hill in order to naturally control the
temperature and has an atmospheric,
circular barrel room.
www.mateticvineyards.cl, Fundo El
Rosario, Lagnunillas

18

For green lovers: Emiliana

Another
biodynamic
producer,
Emilianas
Casablanca
vineyard
(the winery is in Colchagua) offers a
pastoral setting with environmentally
friendly and delicious wines.
Tours begin with a walk around the
vines learning how winemaking
really begins in the vineyard and
guides teach you about the principles
of biodynamics as different farm

This large white Hollywood style castle

on top of a hill overlooking the valley
is just meters away from the main road
and is an easy place to stop by en-route.
A visit to the winery shows you the
large production scale and tours start
on a platform overlooking the vineyard
below learning about the vines and
unique microclimate of Casablanca,
carry on through the winery and
finish with a tasting on the blindingly
white patio. An attached restaurant
specializing in Chilean delicacies is
another attraction for tourists.
www.indomita.cl, Ruta 68, km 64

19

COASTAL
ESCAPADE

Chile is the first resort

forMendocinos who want sea
and beach in January. Amanda
Barnes coasts its 6,500 km of
shoreline to give you the best.

Valparaso
The Ying to Vias yang, Valpo Chiles primary sea port
- offers a colorful, historical, charismatic alternative to
the sometimes tiresome pace of the beach resort towns.
The coastline that inspired Neruda and the rolling hills
crowded with brightly painted houses make the setting
idyllic albeit a little dilapidated. Out of over 36 beaches,
only 5 are ok for a swim: Las Torpederas, CaletaAbarca, Las
Salinas, Los Lilenes and Playa Amarilla. However, these
beaches have steep drop-offs, something to keep in mind if
youre venturing far from shore.
Beach bag essential:Umbrella or a brimmed hat, as shade
will be hard to come by.

20

Concn
The coastal resort of Concn, just north of Via del Mar
is a leafy green escape from the urban vibe of Via. The
10 Km route connecting the two cities not only makes for
an interesting bike ride, it also is home to some of the best
stetches of beach in all of Chile. The three main beaches in
Concnare Playa Negra, Amarilla and Boca. Playa Amarilla,
a favorite among families with small children, offers calm
waters, fine sand and (mostly) free parking.
Beach bag essential:Food and libations, as there is not an
ample selection of restaurants and stores nearby.

Via del Mar

Arguably Chiles premier beach resort, Via is a hotspot for
tourists with cash. Though the icy water makes for a teethchattering swim, it also allows for a coastline brimming
with delicious seafood restaurants and a good amount of
shoreline shopping.
Beach bag essential:Enough pesos to shop the boardwalk
and come away with a Chilean treasure.

21

Reaca
This 1.3 Km stretch of beach resort coast line can scarcely
accommodate the evenly-tanned prepsters that perch in
its sands. If ever a beach could be hip, Renaca would be it.
Though the waves are a bit too much to handle for actual
swimming, beachgoers take quick dips in the chilly water
before continuing their rotisserie sun-tanning regimen.
Beach bag essential:Ashnazy pair of rip-off Raybans. Dont
have any? Lucky for you, every stall along the boardwalk
will be happy to sell you a set for gringo prices, unless
your Spanish accent is up to par.

La Serena

Playa Luna

As the popularity of Via and Valpo beaches grow, some

visitors are breaking away from the herd and heading
north to La Serena (conveniently located the other side
of a quieter border control at San Juan). Waves and rip
currents make conditions dangerous for taking a plunge,
however beach bars and loungers suit land lovers. Closer
to Coquimbo and south of CuatroEsquinas, you can swim
the warmer waters and they are a hotspot for water sports.
Beach bag essential:Surf gear.

Regardless of how earnest their argument, no one

comes to Playa Luna for the birdwatching. At least,
it seems unlikely. This bird sanctuary is also the only
official nudist beach in Chile. Tucked into a secluded
nook of coastline just north of Valparaso, Playa Luna
is reachable by hiking the shoreline from the cove of
Horcn. Nude, partially nude, or bundled up in a parka,
the atmosphere is relaxed and the waves are welcoming.
Beach bag essential:Ditch the beach bag and swimming
costume, just bring yourself and a strong SPF!

22
22

23

FESTIVE SEASON WISHLIST

Tis the season to be jolly. and a few good bottles
always helps. Heres Amanda Barnes pick of some
classic Argentine bottles to make the whole family
merry this Christmas and New Year.
By Amanda Barnes

For Canaps and Parties: Mil Vientos Torrontes,

Merced Del Estero
For good value and a light and refreshing summer wine
(the festive season is much hotter down here than it is
in the Northern Hemisphere) you cant go wrong with
Torrontes. This intense and floral white from San Juan
comes with a great volume in mouth and a long finish
for its very attractive less-than-$100 peso price point.

For Christmas Dinner: Gran Corte, Recuerdo Wines

Christmas is all about making good memories with your
family, and this blend from the Uco Valley comes ready
to create a special moment at a big family dinner. A blend
of Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, this
wine has plenty of dark fruit on the nose as well as black
pepper, coffee and a dash of sweeter vanilla from 22
months in oak. Cork this open and the only argument
around the table will be who gets the last drop.

To Ring in the New Year: DV Catena Nature,

Catena Zapata
If you really want to get your New Year off to a fabulous
start, this is the bottle to go with. One of the best
sparkling wines in the country, DV Catena Nature has
spent a whopping 30 months on the lees and is a complex
and attractive sparkling wine made in the traditional
champenoise method with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir
from Tupungato.

For the morning after: Ramanegra Sidra

This apple cider is more than just your usual cider, it is
made with its second fermentation in the traditional
champenoise method to make it sparkle and has a lovely
crunchy acidity and fresh fruit nose. This is the perfect
morning after tipple with just that gentle bit of hair of
the dog at only 6% alcohol. Yummy!

24

25

dining out
MENDOZA CITY

Grill Q

Grill Q

ITUZAINGO

For an intimate, unusual and memorable

evening - Ituzaingo is one of the citys best
kept secrets. A closed door restaurant
located in a historic house in the bohemian
quarter, Ituzaingo has been receiving rave
reviews from locals, expats and travellers
alike who relish in the warm atmosphere,
good company, unique art, and good
food all accompanied by an eclectic music
mix. The maestro in question is Gonzalo
Cuervo who likes to welcome in up to 45
people in his attractive loft conversion
house or leafy summer garden, and his
chef Francisco can delight guests with an
eight course menu of Argentine flavours
catered to an international palate, or
simply relax with a glass of wine. This
is a real place to meet the wines, food,
art, music and hospitality of Argentina. 8
course menu of argentine cuisine with 3
glasses of wine and a welcome drink, or
you can order sharing plates and wine by
the glass. For those who like to learn more
about regional culture and gastronomy
Ituzaingo has the option of an Argentinean
Cooking Class which is a lot of fun and
educational. Prices between 400 and
500 pesos per person (wines included).
Open Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat from 8.30pm.
Reservations
essential.
Ituzaingo
Resto, tel (261) 15 666 5778, cocina@
ituzaingoresto.com.ar

26

Located in the elegant Park Hyatt, Grill Q

serves up traditional regional cuisine at
a five star level. Sit back in the chic parilla
style restaurant amongst the cowhides
and local artwork, pick from one of the
many Mendocinean wines, make your
order and watch the chefs at work in the
open kitchen. They are famous for their
grilled meats and gigantic empanadas,
and serve hearty Argentine classics
such as locro - a stew which hails
back to the early independence days.
Save room for the stunning desserts.
The Hyatts other restaurant, Bistro M,
offers a more gourmet evening menu
and the most exuberant lunch menu
in town. With a gorgeous buffet spread
of starters like squid and basil stew,
crispy calamari with cool gazpacho
and mezze style tapas, youll need to
bring your stretchy waistbands to fit in
the hearty and flavourful main options
and the sumptuous dessert buffet on
top. Put aside an hour or two for this
tempting lunch or make your way here
in the evening to try the Mediterranean
inspired dishes including delicious pasta,
fresh fish and some great cuts of meat.
Chile 1124. (261) 441 1225. Avg. meal Grill
Q $240 pesos. Bistro M Executive Menu
$270 with starter buffet, main course,
dessert buffet and glass of wine.

Patrona

This cosy Mendocino restaurant has a

casual, rustic charm about it. A colourful
hub of activity on a quiet street, Patrona
attracts a crowd full of locals every night
of the week who come for the honest,
traditional Argentine food and friendly
and warm atmosphere. Classic dishes
like the hearty empanadas and sizzling
asado are worthy and popular fare but
the real star here is Patronas warm,
open sandwiches We recommend the
artichoke hearts and goats cheese;
roasted vegetables with white wine and
honey; or the more traditional pick of
rich glands cooked in lemon. A decent
wine list and some satisfying desserts
complete the gastronomy experience
but the key to Patrona is the cosy way
that they really make you feel at home.
Mi casa es Patrona casa! 9 de Julio 656.
Tel: (261) 4291057. Mon to Sat: 12.30pm
- 3.30pm and 8.30pm - close. Avg. meal
cost: $140/(including starter, main
dish, dessert+a glass of wine)

el mercadito

With an attractive fairy lit patio and terrace

outside, this is the perfect spot for some
lunch time sunshine or al fresco dining.
Run by three friends, El Mercadito has a
cool vibe and relaxed music making it a
favorite. Opened recently by three friends,
El Mercadito is offering something a little
bit different to Mendoza. With a cool vibe,
relaxed music and attractive waiting staff,
this is quickly becoming a favorite hot
spot for a coffee, bite to eat or evening
cocktails. Opening in the morning for
healthy breakfasts and antioxidant juices,
El Mercadito stays open throughout the
siesta with its light menu of sandwiches, big
salads and some Argentine classic meals.
Chow down to big healthy salads like the
Langoustine with huge juicy prawns,
fresh avocado and green leaves or tuck
into one of their big toasted sandwiches
like smoked salmon and cream cheese,
or jamon crudo and arugula served with
chunky chips and homemade BBQ sauce.
As the sun goes down make sure to try out
one of their yummy strawberry mojitos! El
Mercadito, Aristides Villanueva 521,
(261) 4638847. Avg. meal price: $ 150.
Chacras de Coria: Viamonte 4961, te:
4962267.

LA MARCHIGIANA

As the first Italian restaurant in Mendoza,

La Marchigiana has plenty of history and
traditional recipes to whet any nonna`s
appetite. Maria Teresa Corradini de
Barbera`s family restaurant started off
with only six hearty Italian dishes but has
grown into a popular local fixture which
is always busy despite its curious lack of
ambience. The pasta is the best thing here,
maintaining original recipes from over 60
years ago; we recommend the huge stuffed
ravioli. Check out the Brad Pitt photo for
celebrity credentials. La Marchigiana,
Patricias Mendocinas 1550. (261)
4230751. Avg. meal price: $130

Ceibo

Offering one of the most complete cooking

and cultural experiences in Mendoza, this
intimate restaurant serves classic Argentine
countryside cuisine with a contemporary
twist as well as its daily cooking classes.
Chef Mauricio and Sommelier Eugenia
welcome you into their converted family
home and offer a 3 to 4 hour cooking class
whereby you learn the culture of cocina

de campo as well as trying your hand at

traditional cooking techniques like cooking
in a mud oven, al disco and learning the
art of the perfect asado as well as making
empanadas, choripan, homemade bread
and chimichurri sauce. Five courses of
traditional cuisine are paired with boutique
Argentine wines and you finish off making
fresh herb cocktails from the patio garden
and can try rolling Argentine tobacco. A fun,
cultural and culinary experience to enrich
your understanding of Argentina and its
cuisine. The restaurant is also open every
evening (except Sundays) and serve classic
Argentine dishes like a variety of empanadas
and roasted meats along with signature
dishes from Mauricio and boast a fantastic
wine list and warm environment. Ceibo, 25
de Mayo 871 (in front of Plaza Italia), (261)
420 2992. Avg. meal price $ 170, cooking
class from $100US

ANNA BISTRO

Anna Bistro has been an important

restaurant on Mendozas food scene
since it opened 8 years ago, however
that doesnt stop it from renovating
itself each year. This year Jerome and
his team have started smoking their
own salmon and cheese to add a bit
more flavour to some dishes and you
can try the rich salmon on delicious
brioche and go the whole hog with a pot
of delicious steaming, garlicky prawns.
Along with a handful of salmon dishes
there are a host of different foods on
the menu including classic steak, rich
lamb, creamy pastas and lots of lighter
options including big salads, sharing
platters and vegetarian dishes. While
lunch and dinner is still its main game,
the beautiful gardens and restaurant are
open for breakfast from 8am offering
unending treats from their own French
patisserie and the late afternoon is

perfect for sipping your way through

the extensive cocktail list or take
your pick from the arm long wine list.
Av. Juan B. Justo 161 Tel: (261) 425
1818. Everyday 8am till late. Avg.
meal cost: $190 pesos.

outside city
center
LOS NEGRITOS

Right in the middle of Las Vegas (in

Potrerillos, 80kms from Mendoza) this
restaurant stems from a story of a
family who came to live in here one of
the first weekend houses constructed
in the area. They named their home
los negritos a nickname of their two
young children. Many years later, one
of the negritos (Enrique) decided to
leave the bustle of the city, moved
to the mountains
and opened a
restaurant with his wife , in Las Vegas.
The restaurant serves lunch and
dinner every weekend and on public
holidays and the cuisine is flavourful
and typically Argentine with stews
(such as Tomaticn and mondongo)
, milanesas, humita and homemade
pasta - many of the recipes used are old

family recipes. The restaurant has been

recognized as part of the gastronomical
route and is noted for its quality of
cooking, architecture and landscape.
Los Olmos ST, Las Vegas, Potrerillos.
(261)155697431. Avg: $120

TerruoClub TAPIZ

Tucked away among the sprawling

Maipu vineyards lies Club Tapiz Resort
and its lovely restaurant Terruo. This
handsome eatery boasts an elegant
interior, excellent service and a wine
list that is sure to please even the
most finicky of wine snobs. Their
chef compiles a tantalising menu that
includes top notch lomo steaks, a
rotating range of salads and a savory
ginger/honey chicken dish that is
second to none. If you like what you
see and taste, book a room in one of
their seven Renaissance-style villas.
Dont forget to call ahead for dinner
reservations! Ruta 60 s/n 5517
Maip. AR$ 220. Tel: (261) 496 0131.
tapiz.com. Lunch, everyday, 12pm
- 3pm. Dinner, Sun - Thurs, 8pm11pm, Fri & Sat until 12am. Avg.
meal cost: $370 pesos.

FUENTE Y FONDA
Taking over a beautiful space on the Plaza Italia is Pablo del Rios new restaurant,
Fuente y Fonda. You might know the chef for his contemporary Argentine cuisine
at Siete Cocinas, but the ethos behind his new venture is to forget the fancy
crockery and edible flowers and serve it how his grandma would. Expect
unpretentious dining and huge portions of lovingly-prepared Argentine home
comfort foods: milanesas topped with cheese and ham, huge dishes of stuffed
pasta, and plates of meat for everyone to attack in the middle of the table. The
food is honest and tastes great, the prices are excellent, the wine list is fab and
this place is sure to be one of your new mid-week favourites.

27

the winery guide

LUJAN DE CUYO

Terrazas de los Andes

The fine wine sister of Chandon

Argentina is a beautifully restored
bodega with well-appointed tasting
room. Fav. Wine: Cheval de los Andes.
(0261) 488 0704/5. Thames and
Cochabamba, Perdriel, Lujn de
Cuyo. www.terrazasdelosandes.com

Estrella de los Andes

On a leafy road in the middle of

Lujan, this winery has a cool, retro
diner with well presented and
tasty Argentine dishes that wont
break your bank. Open all day and
a relaxed atmosphere. Olavarria
225, Perdriel, (261) 464 9190. www.
bodegaestrelladelosandes.com

Luigi Bosca

The Arizu dynasty are the royal

family of Argentine wine and their
seat of operations is a handsome
and elegant 110-year old winery.
Classical
architecture,
ancient
atmospheric cellars and rich wines
such as the Finca Las Nobles range
make for a fascinating visit. (0261)
498 1974. San Martin 2044, Mayor
Drummond, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
luigibosca.com.ar

Renacer

This Chilean-owned winery creates

the label Punto Final. Small, modern
operation with tour that includes
a hands-on lesson in blending.
Brandsen 1863, Lujan de Cuyo. 261524-4416 or 261-524-4417. www.
bodegarenacer.com.ar

Kaiken

This rustic 80 year-old winery houses a

new venture by the prestigious Chilean
winery Montes. Big and powerful
wines, destined for fame. (0261) 524
3160. Roque Saenz Pea 5516, Las
Compuertas, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
kaikenwines.com

Catena Zapata

Showcase winery designed like a

Mayan temple overlooking vineyards
and the Andes Mountains. Rich,
complex wines. (0261) 413 1100.
Cobos s/n, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
catenawines.com

Melipal

Great Malbec and gourmet lunches

make Melipal one of the most exclusive
wineries to visit. (0261) 4790202 .R.N.7,
1056km, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo.
www.bodegamelipal.com.ar
28

Bonfanti

Pulenta Estate

Via Cobos

Tapiz

A lovely winery in a pastoral setting.

Up close and personal tours with
the owners themselves and a
tasting room set amidst the vines.
(0261) 488 0595. Terrada 2024,
Lujan de Cuyo.
American winemaker Paul Hobbs
was one of the first to recognise
the possibilities of Malbec and his
Bramare label is possibly one of the
best examples of this varietal. (0261)
479 0130. R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo.
www.vinacobos.com

Belasco de Baquedano

Cool minimalist design and rich

complex wines make this a winery
with finesse and style. Fav. Wine:
Cabernet Franc. (0261) 155 076426.
Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo.
www.pulentaestate.com
Great wine lodge Club Tapiz, highend restaurant Terruo and an
instructive wine tour including barrel
and bottle tasting. (0261) 490 0202.
Ruta Provincial 15, Km 32. Agrelo,
Lujn de Cuyo. www.tapiz.com

Norton

Gleaming modern facility with

fascinating
aroma
room
and
restaurant with Andean view. (0261)
524 7864. Cobos 8260, Lujan de
Cuyo. www.belascomalbec.com

Old-style cellars contrast with a hightech production line. Tank and barrel
tastings,and jug fillings on Thursdays
are popular with the locals. (0261)
490 9700. R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel.
Lujn de Cuyo. www.norton.com.ar

Piattelli

Benegas Lynch

A lovely family owned winery done

in a Tuscan style. Enjoy lunch on
a deck beside a pond.Fav. Wine:
Oaked Torrontes. (0261) 479 0123.
Cobos 13710, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
piattellivineyards.com

Cruzat

Rich history and richer wines. Lovely

old bodega with lots of character.
Fav. Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) 496
0794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. www.
bodegabenegas.com

Dante Robino

A boutique traditional sparkling wine

producer with gorgeous bubbles that
can be enjoyed from their terrace
overlooking vines. (261) 5242290,
Costa Flores, s/n, Perdriel, www.
bodegacruzat.com

Founded in 1920, an atmospheric

old-style winery with a modernist,
light-filled tasting room with excellent
view of mountains and vines.
(0261) 488 7229 Ext. #2. Callejn
Maldonado 240, Perdriel. www.
bodegadanterobino.com

Alta Vista

Navarro Correas

Mendel

Caelum

Septima

Nieto Senetiner

Masterful mix of modern and

traditional.
Tasting
includes
distinctive Torrontes or single
vineyard Malbecs. (0261) 496 4684.
lzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Lujan
de Cuyo. www.altavistawines.com
An old style winery ran by one of
Argentinas most famous winemaker
dynasties the De La Motta family.
(0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863,
Mayor Drummond, Lujan de Cuyo.
www.mendel.com.ar
A beautifully designed winery with
clear views of the mountains and a
large terrace used for sunset wine
events after 6.30pm on Thursdays.
Owned by the Spanish experts in
sparkling wine, Codorniu, they make
fab sparkling wine under label Maria.
(261) 498 9550, Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujan
de Cuyo. www.bodegaseptima.com

The closest winery to Mendoza city,

easily accessible Navarro Correas is
a modern winery with great sparkling
wines and fun tasting options. (0261)
4597916. San Francisco del Monte
1555, Godoy Cruz. www.ncorreas.com
Modern, medium size winery on
the main road to Chile just before
the mountains and has a nice
family feel to it. Fav. Wine: Rosado.
(261)156992890. R.N.7 km 1060,
Agrelo. www.bodegacaelum.com.ar
Located in a beautiful old winery
in Chacras, Senetiner was founded
in 1888 and makes a great range
of wines and sparkling wines and
offers horseback riding in the
vineyards and asado style lunches.
(261) 496 9099, Guardia Vieja S/N,
Vistalba, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
nietosenetiner.com.ar

REFERENCES
Restaurant
Lodging
Driving time from Mendoza City
Art Gallery

Chandon

The original foreign investor, Frenchowned Chandon has been making

great sparkling wines in Mendoza
since the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968.
R.P.15, Km 29, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo.
www.bodegaschandon.com.ar

Dominio del Plata

Argentinas most famous female

winemaker Susana Balbo is creating
some rich and complex wines in
the heart of Agrelo. Fav. Wine: Ben
Marco. (0261) 498 9200. Cochabamba
7801 Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
dominiodelplata.com.ar

Lagarde

Owner of the oldest white wine in

South America. Try the hand-crafted
sparkling wine made from 100 year
old vines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext. 27.
San Martin 1745, Mayor Drummond.
Lujn de Cuyo. www.lagarde.com.ar

Ruca Malen

Excellent food, great guiding and firstclass wines. The pairings over lunch
make for an unforgettable culinary
experience. (261) 5537164 .R.N.7, Km
1059, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
bodegarucamalen.com

Decero

Attractive, modern facility with

spectacular views of the mountains
from the cozy tasting room. (0261)
524 4748. Bajo las Cumbres 9003,
Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
decero.com

LOCATIONS REFERENCES
Lujn de Cuyo

San Martn

Maip

Valle de Uco

Mendoza City

NATURAL SELECTION
Searching for a unique, exquisite
wine? Look no further that the oneoff vintages of Cepas Elegidas. Terry
Traynor talks to Mendozas most
exciting and maverick winemaker.
Almost 7 years ago Brennan Firth
left his home country and California
behind with a one-way plane ticket to
Argentina. He had worked in Sonoma
and Santa upon his arrival he worked
at Via Cobos. In 2009 he started his
own brand, Cepas Elegidas. Or The
Selected Vines.
His project is based on sourcing
vineyards with naturally low yields,
sustainable fruit, and making unique
blends that remain in oak barrels
from 11 months to 45 months. His
approach is very hands on but he
focuses on minimal intervention
winemaking. An important part of his
job is scouting grape plantations and
selecting particular vines he likes,
the sections of which he ties colored
ribbons to mark the plants he wants to
work with. For some wines he makes
this may mean selecting 500 plants to
later yield 300 bottles.
One of Mendozas real nomad
wineries, Cepas Elegidas has a very
limited production of only 8,000
bottles a year. Annually he makes five
to ten different wines, meaning each
label is small production, limited and
exclusive. In other words special.

Ive never made the same wine twice

and dont plan to. says Brennan.
Today Cepas Elegidas has over 20
wines in bottle from only 3 vintages
and many of the wines have their own
brand identity. Aside from each wine
being unique and a one-off, no two
labels are ever the same either.
Some local press have quoted
Brennan as being loco for such
unorthodox methods to build his
label and business. Not to mention
the wines themselves, which are
made up of blends most people
wouldnt dare to risk. One such label
is Black Noir a rich concentrated
blend of Tempranillo and Bonarda.
All of his wines are made using
indigenous
yeasts
and
native
malolactic bacteria that take place in
the barrel (for the reds).
The first release of his wines was in
2012 and now almost 3 years later he
is exporting to the US and Switzerland.
Some of Mendozas top restaurants
and wine shops are selling his wines
and supporting his loco approach
to winemaking. Those restaurants
include Azafrn, Siete Cocinas,
Francis Mallmann 1884, Le Rot, Sol y
Vino and Cepas Winery.
To visit Cepas Elegidas call Brennan at
(261) 154671015 or by email Bfirth@
cepaselegidas.com.ar

Clos de Chacras

Charming boutique operation with

nice history. A five minute walk from
Chacras plaza. Fav. Wine: Gran Estirpe.
(0261) 496 1285/155 792706. Monte
Libano s/n, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
closdechacras.com.ar

Carmelo Patti

Mendozas most famous garagista.

Carmelo Patti himself is often there
to show you around (in Spanish). Fav.
Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from the
barrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin
2614, Lujn de Cuyo.

Dolium

A completely underground winery

with innovative design and top notch
Malbecs. (0261) 490 0190. R.P.15, Km
30 s/n, Agrelo. www.dolium.com
29

the winery guide

Achaval Ferrer

Modern boutique close to Mendoza

riverbed. Big concentrated wines.
(0261) 488 1131.
Cobos 2601,
Perdriel, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
achaval-ferrer.com

Vistalba

Tasting room where one entire wall

is a subterranean cross section of
the actual vineyard clay, roots and
rocks. Fab restaurant. Fav Wine:
Petit Verdot. (0261) 498 9400. Roque
Saenz Pea 3135, Vistalba. www.
carlospulentawines.com

Familia Cassone

A charming, family owned winery in

a beautiful setting. Try the jasmine
tinted ros amidst the pastoral
splendour of the owners expansive
garden.
Anchorena y Terrada. (261) 424 6301.
www.familiacassone.com.ar

MAIPU

Trapiche

Argentinas biggest winery is a mix

of old and new, traditional and
industrial, and has the old train
tracks leading up to it. (0261) 520
7666. Mitre s/n. Coquimbito, Maip.
www.trapiche.com.ar

Flichman

Steeped in history and tradition.

Charming, pink-hued, colonial-style
bodega, set in the leafy vineyards of
southern Maipu. (0261) 497 2039.
Munives 800, Barrancas, Maip.
www.flichman.com

Tempus Alba

A fine modern winery set in the rural

lanes of southern Maipu. The rooftop
terrace overlooks the vineyard.
(0261) 481 3501. Perito Moreno 572,
Maip. www.tempusalba.com

Familia Zuccardi

A professional, far-sighted operation.

Attractive restaurant amidst the
vines, famous for its asado-style
lunches and generous wine pourings.
(0261) 441 0000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5,
Maip. www.familiazuccardi.com

Lopez

Popular, old-style winery with two

museums on the wine. Restaurant
offers gourmet cuisine with a
panoramic view. (0261) 497 6554.
Ozamis 375, Gral Gutirrez, Maip.
www.bodegaslopez.com.ar
30

Rutini / La Rural

Well-stocked museum with invaluable

antiques like cowhide wine presses
and buckets. Giant oak tanks stand in
large, cavernous halls.
(0261) 497 2013 Ext.125. Montecaseros
2625, Coquimbito, Maip. www.
bodegalarural.com.ar

Cecchin

A family winery using organic and

biodynamic principles where you
can see the entire process from the
beautiful green vineyards to the
minimal intervention winery.
(261) 497 6707, MA Saez 626, Maipu,
www.bodegacecchin.com.ar

Carinae

Small,
charming,
French-owned
winery offering personal tours and
well-honed wines. Surrounded by
vineyards and olive trees.
(0261) 499 0470. Videla Aranda
2899, Cruz de Piedra, Maip www.
carinaevinos.com

Cepas Elegidas

Making real vinos de autor, US born

Brennan Firth makes his limited
production wines in a small winery in
Maipu. Exclusive and ultra high end
wines, a visit and tasting is with the
winemaker himself.
To visit Cepas Elegidas, call Brennan
on (0261) 467 1015.

Familia Di Tommasso

Officially the second oldest winery in

Mendoza and still run by Argentine
hands. Their charming and rustic
restaurant looks onto the vineyard,
just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829.
Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maip. www.
familiaditommaso.com

AMP Cava

Finca La Celia

One of the valleys oldest wineries.

They conduct excellent tours and
tastings. (02622) 451 010. Av. de
Circunvalacion s/n, Eugenio Bustos,
San Carlos. www.fincalacelia.com.ar

La Azul

Simple, small production winery

with not so simple Malbecs and a
small traditional restaurant. (02622)
423 593.R.P 89 s/n. Agua Amarga,
Tupungato. www.bodegalaazul.com

Salentein

Designed like a temple to wine,

this ultra-concept winery includes
a modern art gallery, lodge, and
chapel set high in the Andean valley.
(02622) 429 500.R.P 89 s/n, Tunuyan.
www.killkasalentein.com

Clos de los 7

In the heart of gorgeous Vista

Flores, you can visit premium French
owned wineries Monteviejo, Rolland,
Diamandes and Cuvelier de los andes
in one visit for tastings, horseriding,
art and lunch. (0261) 156 687680.
www.clos7.com.ar

O. Fournier

Most
architecturally
innovative
winery with rich, concentrated wines.
Excellent lunches in the modernist
visitor center. (02622) 451 088. Los
Indios s/n, La Consulta, San Carlos.
www.ofournier.com

Gimenez Riili

A brand new family run affair, part

of the exciting Vines of Mendoza
project. This is a modern winery in
a stunning setting. 0261-156317105/
0261-153470392 - Ruta 94 (s/n),
Tunuyn. www.gimenezriili.com

Premium wines made from different

terroirs but all by renowned
winemaker Karim Mussi Saffie.
Technical tastings and a close
proximity to the city make it a
recommended visit.
Gmez Adriano 3602. Coquimbito.
Maip - (261) 4813201/4668048

Atamisque

VALLE DE UCO

SAN MARTIN

Andeluna

Familia Antonietti

The old-world style tasting room

looks upon dramatic views of
vineyards
against
mountains.
(02622) 423 226 Ext 113.R.P. 89, Km
11, Gualtallary, Tupungato. www.
andeluna.com

This Uco winery has some great

white wines, a unique stony roof and
they breed their own trout which is
served in the charming restaurant.
(0261) 156 855184. R.P. 86 (Km
30), San Jose, Tupungato. www.
atamisque.com

A family winery in San Martin where

you can have a tour with the owners,
try some of their sparkling wines and
stay for a homecooked lunch. (0261)
4390964/155688905. Pizarro s/n
esq. Zalazar, Chapanay, San Martn.

bars
inside Mendoza City

The list below has some great bars but if youre looking to
browse, head to Aristides Villanueva Avenue, the nightlife
strip of Mendoza. Its a continuation of Ave. Colon and
is simply referred to as Aristides by the locals. Pubs, bars,
restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to San
Martin Park to provide you with ample bar options. Get your
shut-eye before a night out because the clubs dont even get
started until 2am, and call a taxi because they are all located
out of the city in Chacras or El Challao.

The Vines of Mendoza

As the first and only true tasting room in South America, The
Vines of Mendoza offers the broadest selection of premium
boutique wines from Argentina. Compare the wine notes
with one of their tasting flights or choose a glass from the
impressive list of limited production wines. Chatting with
their learned bartenders and sipping fabulous flavours makes
for a truly enjoyable afternoon. Belgrano 1194, Tel. 261 4381031. Mon-Sat, 3pm-10pm www.vinesofmendoza.com

BELIEVE IRISH PUB

One of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter and

high stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English partowner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chat and
a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factor in its
notable popularity among expats and travelers. On the menu
is a great collection of draught beers, bottled beers (try the
Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pub grub. TV screens
hang in every corner airing hit music-video montages or
football games. Monday night is International night and for
their packed events DJs rock the house. Colon and Espaa
241. Tel. 261-429-5567. www.believeirishpub.com.ar

ANTARES BAR

Aristides street would not be very complete without its own

micro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneer in
this respect with bars located across the country since before
it became trendy to brew your own grog. Its long bar displays
tempting casks of great quality beers such as Scottish ale and
Irish stout. This expansive bar packs them in at night and
serves decent pub grub too. Antares Bar. Aristides 153.

Velvet

This hip new club and bar is located 15mins away from
Mendoza in Chacras de Coria. Boasting good cocktails and
great music, spread over a lounge bar and downstairs club
room, this is the best ticket in town for good times on a Friday
and Saturday night. Mision Alfoz, Viamonte 4961, Chacras
de Coria (261) 467 433.

Black Sheep

Just off the Alameda strip, the Black Sheep is an Americanstyle sports bar with big screen TVs and decent bar food like
nachos, homemade burgers and hot and spicy chicken wings.
While especially popular during sports matches, The Black
Sheep is one of the few bars to stay open everyday from 12
till 4am so you can grab a pint whenever you like! Maipu 131,
Mendoza (261) 561 4283.

El MERCADITO

Aristides still remains the busiest night spot in town and this
resto-bar has to be one of the coolest in town. El Mercadito
is run by three friends and it lets the good times roll with
healthy meals including big salads, which are a rarity here
antioxidant juices, decent brekkie, fresh cocktails and a
top music mix. Spend an evening here and youll hear a few
beats from across the pond and leave with a light stomach
and a few stars brightening up your vision.El Mercadito,
Aristides 521.

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USEFUL INFORMATION
AIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINE Ordinary post will not ship wine and a courier can cost at least
U$ 30 a bottle. The most economical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most wine
stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266. CRIME Be alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants.
Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and internet cafes. BIKE TOURS IN MAIPU The most
economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171, 172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquiza street (see below)
where youll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount
as a puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. Recommended wineries: Rutini,
Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso and certainly Carinae. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent Casa de Campo. NIGHTCLUBS
In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to buy
several drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so bring your own toilet paper.
Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get going before 2am.
MENDOZA EXPATS CLUB An organization which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org. HAIR DRESSER
English speaking and eccentric hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right. Paso de los Andes 997 (esq. Julio Roca), tel (261) 641 6047.
CHANGING DOLLARS - Cambio, cambio shout the arbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria Tonsa (San Martin 1173), the place to
go if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are preferred. To make sure you are not getting ripped off check the
current rate of the dolr informal on www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is generally 30 centavos less.

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