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Tilt-Top Router Table

An open-and-close shop tool designed for convenience
Count the features of this fully loaded
router table, and youll quickly conclude
that youve got to have one. For starters,
the table flips up for easy changing of
bits and checking bit height. Its topped
by an accurate, easy-to-build fence. A
sealed compartment underneath, fitted
with a vacuum port, takes care of
sawdust. Below that, youll find a slideout shelf for storing all kinds of bits and
accessories. Plus, we offer an optional
table design for use with an aftermarket
fence.

DP-00064

Copyright Meredith Corporation 2003

Page 1 of 12

1 CABINET

Location
of O

x " notch

5"

C
3"

" round-over along back

corners of the cabinet,
starting 4" from
bottom end

1"

Vacuum
hose hole

A
17"

7"

Router-cord
access notch
F

Mitered end
F

15"
L

G
7"

35"

19"
35"

Location
of A

35"

20"

1a SIDE PANEL
(Left-hand panel shown)

G
Location
of K

Hole to fit your

vacuum hose

E
*"

I
" shank hole,
countersunk

26"

7"

18"
J

R
12"

All cleats mounted

with #8 x 1" F.H.
wood screws

*Note: If your material

for part P is a full ",
allow more than shown
for clearance.
K
"

17"

#8 x 1" F.H.
wood screw
"

First, build the cabinet

1 Cut the cabinet sides (A) and
back (B) to sizes listed in the
Materials List from " mediumdensity fiberboard (MDF). As noted
on the Cutting Diagram on Page
11, MDF measures 1" wider and
longer than regular 48' sheet
goods.
2 Using Drawings 1 and 1a for
reference, mark the centerpoint,
and cut the vacuum hose hole in
the left-hand side panel (A) to fit
your vacuum hose. (We drilled a
blade start hole, and cut the hole
to shape with a jigsaw.) To
prevent chipping, rout a "
chamfer along the inside and
outside edges of the hose hole.
3 Mark and cut a notch in the
right-hand side panel for the cord
from the router to exit the cabinet.
4 From " solid stock (we
recommend maple or birch), cut
the " cleats (CJ) to the
lengths listed in the Materials List.
5 Next, mark the locations of the

13"

" chamfer along

inside and outside
edges of hole

45

cleats on the inside face of each

side panel (A), as shown in
Drawings 1 and 1a. Then, drill
countersunk mounting holes in
the cleats, and screw them in
place, as shown in Photo A.
6 Cut the bottom (K), dust-chute
pieces (L, M, N), and support (O)
to size from MDF. For a tight fit,
miter-cut one edge of part L and
one end of each D.
7 Glue and clamp the basic
cabinet assembly (A, B, K, O)
together in the configuration
shown on Drawing 2 on the
following page. Check for square.
Then, drill the countersunk holes,
and screw the dust-chute pieces (L,
M, N) in place.
8 Working on the outside of the
cabinet, sand the joints between
the two side panels (A) and back
panel (B) smooth. Then, rout a "
round-over along the back corners
of the cabinet, starting 4" from
the bottom ends, Page 3.

19"

I
"

A
Mark the cleat locations, drill the
mounting holes, and screw the
cleats in place on the cabinet sides.
Page 2 of 12

TM

1"-diam. hole, centered

-20 x 1" F.H. machine screw
" hole, countersunk
x 11 x 11" phenolic router plate
Router
Four-arm knob
with " insert
-20 x 1" F.H. machine screw

" flat washer

x 3 x 27"
" hole,
countersunk

Y
Z

Use " T-nut on bottom

side, epoxy in place.

R=1" #8 x 1" F.H.

wood screw
X

" rabbet " deep

Dado to fit
miter gauge

-20 threaded insert

Plastic laminate on top
and bottom surfaces

V
U

" hole " deep with a

" hole 1" deep centered inside

" chamfers
R=1"

" hole " deep

x " notch for

router cord 3" from
front edge

" round-over
-20 x 1" bolt cut to 1" long
(Stops W with table in full upright position.)
1" continuous hinge
19" long

O
Power switch

" round-over

2 EXPLODED VIEW

Magnetic catch

To router

Router wrench
L

35"

#8 x 1" F.H. wood screws

M

N
A

" and
" holes for
router bits

T
Magnetic catch
A

4"
R

" and " holes

" deep for
router bits

Plate for
magnetic
catch
Q

3"

K
P

" hole,
countersunk

30"

T
18"

"
round-over

#8 x 1" F.H.
wood screw

Mitered
corner

"

18"
3" wire pull " from
front edge, centered

Note: MDF is dense and requires 764" pilot holes

for #8 x 1" F.H. wood screws.

1" glide
into edge
of A

22"
" round-over

3" wire pull

2" from side
edge of door
Cabinet hinge
(4" from top and
bottom edges)

S
20"

" round-overs

FILENAME Tilt T

Page 3 of 12
TM

Add the shelf, door,

and base trim

size plus 1" in length from solid

stock. Rout a " round-over along
the top outside edge of each trim
piece. Miter-cut the trim pieces to
length. Working from the inside
of the cabinet, drill countersunk
mounting holes, and then glue
and screw the trim pieces to the
bottom outside of the cabinet.
7 Turn the cabinet upside down,
and nail four glides in place.

1 Cut the router-bit shelf (P) and

small-bit holder (Q) to size.
Locating the holes to properly
space your particular bits, mark
the centerpoints, and then drill
holes in the shelf for your largediameter bits. Now drill holes in
the bit holder (Q) for your small
bits. The small-bit holder works
great for straight bits, which
would fall through the holes in
the shelf (P). Next, glue and
clamp the bit holder to the shelf.
2 Cut the base-trim support
piece (R) to the size listed, and
screw it to the front of the
cabinet.
3 Cut the door (S) to the size
shown in Drawing 2. Rout a "
round-over along the sides (not
the top and bottom) of the door.
4 Drill holes in the door for
attaching the wire pull later.
5 Attach the hinges where
dimensioned, and mount the door
to the cabinet. Add the magnetic
catches and strike plates to the
door and cabinet.
6 Cut the base-trim pieces (T) to

Heres how to add

the tilting top
Note: On this project, we give you
the option of two different tabletops.
The instructions below detail
building the 28" square standard
top. Youll also find dimensions for
the larger 2836" table, shown in
Photo C on Page 11, thats
designed to work with an Incra Jig
Ultra.
1 Cut two pieces of " MDF to
29" square for the tabletop (U),
shown in Drawing 3, and detailed
in Drawings 6 and 7.
2 Glue and clamp the two pieces
together face-to-face. To achieve
uniform clamping pressure in the

center of the lamination, drill

several pilot holes from what will
become the underside of the
tabletop, and then drive several
#81" screws into the upper
lamination. Next, using clamps
along the edges, secure the two
pieces tightly together until the
glue dries. Now remove all the
screws so you wont hit them in
the following steps.
3 A Cut the laminated router top
(U) to finished size (28" square),
radiusing the corners at 1".
4 Cut two pieces of plastic
laminate to 30" square. Apply
contact cement to all mating
surfaces, and adhere the laminate
to both surfaces of the tabletop
(U). Use a rubber roller to ensure
a good bond between the
laminate and MDF.
5 Using a trimming bit, rout the
edges of the laminate flush with the
edges of the tabletop as shown in
Photo B.
6 Cut or rout a dado in the top
(U), where dimensioned, to form
a slot that fits your miter-gauge
guide bar.

B
Using contact cement, adhere the two oversized pieces of plastic laminate to
the laminated top. Then, rout the edges of the laminate flush.
Page 4 of 12
TM

3 SIDE SECTION VIEW

-20 x 1" F.H. machine screw

" prongless T-nut
-20 threaded insert
9"
U

3"
O

S
Hinge

7"
W

1"

Page 5 of 12
TM

4 FORM THE ROUTER-PLATE RECESS

Step 3 Lay out and mark the opening
cutlines inside the traced outline.

Step 1 Position the plate 5" from

the front edge on top of U and
centered side-to-side.

Step 4 Drill a blade start

hole, and cut the opening.

5"

Traced outline
Cutlines

11 x 11"
router plate

FRONT EDGE

FRONT EDGE

U
Centered
side-to-side

10"

5"
"

10"
2"

"

2"

Step 2 Trace outline of the

plate onto the top of U .

Step 6 Clamp the guide boards around the plate,

spacing each board away from the plate " with
business-card shims.
Step 5 Secure router plate
inside traced outline with
double-faced tape.
U

Spacers
Router plate

Guide
board 2

Guide board 1

FRONT EDGE

Guide board 4

Guide board 3

Step 7 Remove the router plate and shims. Use a portable router and straight bit with
a top-mounted pilot bearing. With the router base resting on the surfaces of the guide boards,
adjust the cutting depth to rout " deep into the tabletop. Then, guiding the bits pilot bearing
along the inside edges of the guide boards, rout the recess. Make additional passes, lowering
the bit each time until you reach a depth equal to the thickness of the router plate.
Page 6 of 12
TM

Cut the table insert into the top

Note: We secured the router plate to the tabletop with
screws and T-nuts so that the plate (with the router
attached) cant fall out when tipping the tabletop back.
See the Buying Guide for our source for the router plate
and hardware.
1 The router plate we used (see the Buying Guide)
is listed as a 12"-square plate, but actually measured a
bit less. Using a tablesaw, cut adjoining edges to
square up the plate, then trim it to 11" square.
2 Follow the seven-steps, described in Drawing 4, to
form the router-plate recess in the top (U).
3 Mark the centerpoints, and then drill " holes in
the corners of the router plate, where dimensioned in
Drawing 7. Fit the router plate in the recess, and use
the holes as guides to drill through the corners of the
recess in the top (U).

Hinge
location

4 Using epoxy, adhere a " prongless T-nut into

each " hole on the underside side of the router
tabletop.
5 Carefully mark the centerpoint on the router
plate. Now, bore a 1" hole (or one slightly larger
than the diameter of your largest-diameter router bit)
through the center of the router plate.
6 Countersink the " holes in the router plate for
the -201" flathead machine screws.
7 Remove the baseplate from your router. Using the
holes in your baseplate as guides, mark and drill
corresponding holes in the router plate.
Countersink or counterbore the holes, as required
for your router, and then mount your router to the
router plate. Place the router and router plate into
the tabletop recess, and secure the plate with
machine screws.

5 ROUTER TABLETOP
(Bottom view)

Location of part B

3"

" hole
4"

5a SUPPORT BLOCK DETAIL

28"
-20 x 1" F.H.
machine screw

19"
" lock nut
" rabbet
" deep
on top side

V
15"

3"

V
" flat washer
3"

" hole,
countersunk

Location of part R
Locations of parts A
28"
FRONT OF TABLE

Page 7 of 12
TM

6 ROUTER TOP
(Top view)

6a THREADED INSERT LOCATION DETAIL

1/4-20

5"
21/2" 21/2"
23/4"

R=1"

U
3/8"

holes

threaded inserts

Fence

51/8"
Y
Centerline
X

A
28"
U

Dado to fit
miter gauge.

3/4"

5"

31/4"

28"
FRONT OF TABLE

7 ROUTER PLATE

Radius corners
to match
rabbeted recess.

"

"
" hole,
countersunk for a
-20 x 1" F.H.
machine screw
1" hole,
centered

Page 8 of 12
TM

8 FENCE
"

10"
5"

2"
2"

2"

1"

"

2"

2"

10"
" slots 2" long
2"

24"
Z
R=1"

3"

2"
12"

Top view
Y

R=1"

Front view

3"
13"

27"

10 MOUNTING PLATE
INCRA JIG ULTRA

9 PIVOT BLOCK FULL-SIZE PATTERN

PIVOT BLOCK
FULL-SIZE PATTERN

15"

Top view

7"

7"
3"

1"

3"

1"
3"

" shank holes,

countersunk on
bottom edge

6"

8"

3"
" hole

"

1"

Centerline
V

" holes, countersunk

" stock

1"

Side view

Page 9 of 12
TM

11 OPTIONAL LARGE ROUTER TABLETOP

(Bottom view)
R="

-20 threaded
inserts

7"

7"

"

1"

Hinge
location

3"

" hole,
countersunk
this side

" holes, countersunk

Location of
mounting plate

Location
of part B

13 SUPPORT BAR
FULL-SIZE PATTERN

3"

" hole

SUPPORT
BAR
FULL-SIZE
HALF
PATTERN

4"
19"

V
Join pattern here.
15"

10"

"
x 1 x 12"
aluminum

3"
3"

Location of part S
Locations of parts A
28"

1"

FRONT OF TABLE

12 OPTIONAL LARGE ROUTER TABLETOP

(Top view)
Incra Jig Ultra

1"

1"-diam.
plastic knob

Mounting plate

5"

Join pattern here.

36"
W

SUPPORT
BAR
FULL-SIZE
HALF
PATTERN

Dado to fit
miter gauge.

"
5"

3"
28"

R=1"

FRONT OF TABLE

Page 10 of 12
TM

Finishing and final assembly

Adding a fence system

Note: In addition to the accurate,
easy-to-build fence shown, we
designed this router tabletop to be
compatible with a number of fence
systems, including the Incra Jig
Ultra, below right. Before installing
another brand fence, check the
manufacturers mounting
requirements.
1 Cut the fence (X), base (Y),
and braces (Z) to the sizes listed
in the Materials List and shown
in Drawing 8 on Page 9. Cut the
mounting slots in the base (Y),
where shown.
2 Lay out and cut the 1"-radius bitclearance openings in the fence
and base. Now glue and screw
these parts together, and add the
braces to form the completed
fence assembly.
3 Mark the centerpoints for the
threaded inserts on the router top
(U) where dimensioned in
Drawing 6a on Page 8.
4 Drill a " hole at each marked
centerpoint just through the
laminate (" deep). (We used a
Forstner bit to make this recess.)
Switch bits, and drill a " hole 1"
deep centered in each " hole. (If
you are using the Incra Jig, follow
the dimensions on Drawings 10, 11,
and 12.)
5 Double-nut a bolt, and use it to
drive a threaded insert into each
hole.

1 Remove the router plate and

router from the router tabletop.
Separate the top from the base
cabinet. Remove the hardware,
and sand the cabinet and tabletop
edges
smooth.
Fill
any
imperfections and finish-sand.
2 Prime the base cabinet. (We did
this in several coats, using a
sanding block with 220-grit
sandpaper between coats to
smooth the primer.) Paint the base
cabinet as desired. Apply a clear
finish to edges of the router
tabletop.
3 Hinge the router top and door
to the cabinet. Reattach the
magnetic catches and pulls. Then,
reattach the router with attached
plate to the router tabletop.
4 Attach the fence system of your
choice. Attach a power switch to
the cabinet, and plug the router
cord into the switch. Fit your
vacuum hose into the opening, and
youre ready for business.
Written by Marlen Kemmet
Project design: Jim Downing
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna
Johnson
Photographs: Hetherington
Photography

Cutting Diagram
(MDF measures 49 x 97")

R
B

N
M

x 49 x 97" Medium-density fiberboard

Scrap to form guide boards

x 49 x 97" Medium-density fiberboard

T

x 7 x 96" Maple
Z
X

Q V

C , D, E , F , G, H, I , J

x 3 x 48" Maple

Now attach the tabletop

support
1 From " maple, drill the holes
and cut the pivot block (V) to
shape, as dimensioned in Drawing
9 on Page 9.
2 Transfer the support bar (W)
pattern from Drawing 13 to 1"
aluminum bar stock. Cut the piece
to shape, and drill a hole through
one end, where marked.
3 Drill pilot holes, and glue and
screw the pivot block (V) to the
bottom of the router top, where
shown on Drawing 5. Then, attach
the support bar to the pivot block.

C
Page 11 of 12
TM

Bill of Materials
Cabinet

FINISHED SIZE
T

Matl.

Qty*.

CABINET

A
B
C*
D*
E*
F*
G*

side
back
cleats
cleats
cleats
cleats
cleats

"
"
"
"
"
"
"

19"
20"
"
"
"
"
"

35"
35"
5"
4"
26"
13"
7"

MF
MF
M
M
M
M
M

2
1
2
2
2
2
2

H*

cleats

"

"

18"

I*

cleats

"

"

17"

J*

cleats

"

"

19"

bottom

"

19"

19"

MF

L
M

sloped dust panel

bottom dust panel

"

15"

19"

MF

"

7"

19"

MF

dust bin front

"

3"

19"

MF

support

"

7"

19"

MF

shelf

"

18"

18"

MF

bit holder

"

1"

16"

support

"

4"

20"

MF

door

"

20"

30"

MF

T*

base trim

"

4"

22"

M
mantel
Router
Table

1"

10"

SS

U*

top

"

28"

28"

LMF

pilot block

"

1"

2"

support bar

"

1"

12"

W
Fencemantel

1"

10"

SS

base

"

10"

24"

MF

fence

"

3"

27"

braces

"

2"

2"

*Parts initially cut oversize. See the

instructions.
Materials key: MFmediumdensity
fiberboard, Mmaple or birch,
LMFlaminated medium-density
fiberboard, Aaluminum.
Supplies: 1212" phenolic router
plate, #81" flathead wood screws, 1"
continuous hinge 19" long with mounting
screws, -201" flathead machine
screws (6), " flat washers (2), "
prongless T-nuts (4), power switch, one
pair of cabinet hinges (we used Amerock
#BP-5988-M26), 1" glides (4), 3" wire
pulls (2), pair of magnetic catches and
strike plates, plastic laminate, contact
cement, -20 threaded inserts (4), fourarm knobs (2), 201" bolt trimmed to
1" long, 1" aluminum bar stock for
support bar (part W), primer, paint, and
clear finish.
Buying Guide
Tilt-top router-table kit. The kit
contains everything noted in the Supplies
listing above except the plastic laminate,
power switch, contact cement, primer,
paint, and finish. Kit no. TTRT, $54.95
ppd. Schlabaugh and Sons Woodworking,
720 14th St. Kalona, IA; 800/346-9663.
Incra Jig. Several models are
available. For more information, contact
Incra at 972/245-9975 or
www.incra.com.

Page 12 of 12
TM

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