fter two years living in Paris, moving to Brussels was a
opened in Lige in the 1860s (perhaps the origins of the frite are mired revelation. In Paris, I was fulfilling a long-cherished teenage in controversy) and successive generations of migrants have enriched fantasy. But I learned some hard truths about my dream city: the gastronomic landscape with their own street food. most devastating of all, it was completely unacceptable to eat in the It came as no surprise when Brussels city council recently launched street. I learned the hard way, as, biting straight into a luscious clair an official food-truck tour a European first with selected gourmet in the chi-chi 17th arrondissement, I was met with an audible tut of disapproval and a barrage of censorious looks from passersby. The final indignity came with a sardonic bon apptit! from a contemptuous teenager. Paris was a gastronomic In Brussels, Emma Beddington discovers her biggest luxury of all: the wonderland, but a fiercely regimented one. freedom to indulge in the great foodie pleasures of life on the street Two years later, I moved to Brussels and the sensation was like kicking off a pair of beautiful-but-toovans across the city offering creative treats, from pastrami buns and tight shoes: a happy exhalation of relief. In Brussels, far from croques monsieur to organic soups and Thai noodles. being a vice, eating on the street is virtually a civic duty, and, I live in a city unapologetically, single-mindedly committed wandering my new neighbourhood, street food was everywhere. to pleasure. Its a place that recognises that small indulgences The friterie on the corner sent forth a constant stream of arent trivial or shameful; rather, they are precisely what happy punters tucking into outsized parcels of fries. Outside make life worth living. A steaming cone of triple-cooked Zizi and Il Gelato, the two local ice-cream parlours, a queue beef-dripping frites, or a thick, aromatic Pierre Marcolini hot of all ages, shapes and nationalities waited patiently for chocolate with a spiced Speculoos biscuit? Go on, whispers scoops of pistachio gelato or bitter-chocolate sorbet until Brussels, youre a long time dead. You deserve it. late into the night, even in winter. Every afternoon, And that philosophy echoes through city life: its a waffle van, exhaling a heady scent of vanilla an indulgent place to live in both senses of the and yeast, parked outside my sons school. word, capable of showing reserves of kindness. Belgium, with its waffle stands and It might not be the city I dreamed of in my chocolate counters, is the spiritual teenage bedroom, but its emphatically the granddaddy of the street-food city I dream of growing old (and, I fear, revolution. The first friterie fat) in. Bon apptit! Next month: Berlin
ILLUSTRATION: MIA NILSSON/PEPPERCOOKIES.COM
Word of mouth
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november 2014
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