Professional Documents
Culture Documents
.-
ri
WILLIAM T.BRIGH AM
THE LIBRARY OF
BROWN UNIVERSITY
THE CHURCH
COLLECTION
The Bequest of
Colonel George Earl Church
1835-1910
GUATEMALA
THE LAND OF THE QUETZAL
MONOLITH
(A)
AT QHIKIGUA.
GUATEMALA
THE LAND OF THE QUETZAL
By
WILLIAM
T.
BRIGHAM,
LONDON
T.
FISHER UNWIN
26
Paternoster Square
1887
A.M.
\n
r=<
PREFACE.
BELIEF
in
the
politically,
has
own
rise
of
others, notes
made
He
little
attention to
commerce. Even now there are thousands of square miles of wholly unexjDiored territory
between the low Isthmus of Tehuantepec and the Lake of
Guatemala or
Nicaragua.
its
PREFACE.
vi
No
the Pacific
Indian Neilgherries
those of Brazil
land
forests as dense
and luxuriant as
Emerald
that
field
traveller.
of
a more attractive
is
Isle
recall
the
Sahara
all
^tna and a
whence comes the
volcanoes like
Indian name,
desert wastes
these features
make
man
path.
The hair-breadth
escapes,
is
in his
more interesting
to the
on earth
is
wholly
free,
to
when
and the Nicaraguan Canal unites the Atand the Pacific, the charm will be broken, the mulepath and the mozo de cargo will be supplanted, and a
journey across Central America become almost as dull as
a journey from Chicago to Cheyenne.
of Honduras,
lantic
PREFACE.
Vll
W.
Boston, June
16, 1887.
T. B.
CONTENTS.
I
II.
its
....
PAGE
Connections
25
III.
IV.
Guatemala City
VII.
Guatemala to Esquipulas
VIII.
IX.
In the
66
103
148
171
190
201
228
Olden Time
281
323
377
APPENDIX
411
INDEX
445
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.
Monolith at Quirigua
(A)
Frontispiece
TO FACE PAGE
Street in Livingston
28
30
Grating Cassava
32
Weaving a Serpiente
36
El Rio Cuocon
44
Frank and
his
Mare
(tVoni the
....
106
]\Iabel
CiiiCAMAN (two views takeu from the same place before sunrise)
94
....
109
114
Plaza of Sacapulas
118
ToTONicAPAN Valley
138
156
177
178
Santuario at Esquipulas
202
218
ILLUSTRATIONS.
xii
TO FACE PAGE
Altar-Stones at Quirigua
Ethnographic Chart
A Group
222
Dr. Stoll)
(after
of Carib Children
271
272
274
276
Court Scene
318
in Livingston
In the Forest
324!
CoHUNE Palms
VoLCAN DE PuEGO
(from
tlie
Cabildo, Antigua)
330
392
TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
vii
Luciano Calletano
24
(captain at Chocon)
27
41
Pemale Iguanas
47
Barbecue at Benito
50
Section of Vejuco de
Agua
54
55
59
tlie
Puerto Barrios
61
Sulphur Spring
63
65
69
ILLUSTRATIONS.
xiii
PAGE
Making Tortillas
71
89
In Hotel Aleman
91
The Cabildo
F. E. Blaisdell)
92
of Coban
93
94
Pattern of Cloth
95
97
Indio of Coban
99
Cuartillo of Guatemala
102
107
122
(Sacrificatorio)
Marimba
123
JlCARA
124
132
Church at Quezaltenango
143
145
(President of Guatemala)
Alcaldes of Quezaltenango
146
Cuatro-Reales of Honduras
147
J.
in
149
1S83)
153
Washout
157
in
the Road
Ruined Church
in
Antigua Guatemala
159
161
168
Bread-fruit (^Artocarpus
170
incisct)
174
ILLUSTRATIONS.
XIV
PAGE
I79
184
Terra-cotta Figurines
184
Indian Pottery
189
190
191
198
Lava Mask
200
in
Incense-Burner (about
Monolith at Quirigua
Monolith E
IzABAL
207
plan)
217
219
(F)
(portion of back)
(fi'om the
221
225
227
245
old Manuscript)
....
246
Ideographs
251
Ancient Incense-burner
251
Carib
(at
Chichen Itza)
Woman
257
272
275
279
Nacional)
2S0
Arms of Guatemala
281
Rafael Cabrera
288
326
Matapalo-Tree
Attalea coiiune
330
ILLUSTRATIONS.
xv
PA.GG
Theobroma cacao
(chocolate tree)
A Bunch
at Liviugstou)
332
....
340
341
346-
tree)
of Plantains (young)
347
352:
Pounding Rice
356'
Growth
360
of a
Young Coconut
Passiflora Brighami
376'
Congrehoy Peak
384
CosEGUiNA (from
Group (from an
399
the sea)
ancient Manuscript)
442
MAPS.
Central America
Lago de Atitlan
154
377
Lago de Ilopango
403
Guatemala
End of Book
GUATEMALA:
THE LAND OF THE QUETZAL.
CHAPTER
I.
THAT
known
as Central
mala,
my
purpose
is
be pardoned
if
I call
of the ancient
interests of
kingdom,
my
the attention of
and
a portion only
to the
name and
is
still
may
readers briefly
all
Guatemala.
Panama
is
republics
of
what
is
known
Guatemala, San
Costa Rica, con-
as Central America,
territory
GUATEMALA.
between
it
82 25'
and 19
8 10'
extending between
and
and
In length
its
No competent
try,
down on
laid
at
haphazard
have been
coast-line
most
cases,
scientifically
veys along
the
lines
not
is
Government
determined.
of
always correctly
proposed
canals
or
sur-
railways
of Costa
maps published by
authority of individual
value, the course of
map
republics are
of
Rica
or under
no
scien-
I.
Guatemala
Siiuare Miles.
Population.
40,777
1,190,754
7,335
434,520
Houduras
47,090
351,700
Nicaragua
58,000
236,000
Costa Rica
21,495
180,000
174,697
2,392,974
Salvador
S-
II.
Square Miles
Guatemala
Salvador
.....
Population.
40,776
1,500,000
7,335
554,000
Honduras
39,600
300,000
Nicaragua
Costa Rica
58,170
26,040
300,000
200,000
171,921
2,854,000
50,600
1,200,000
III.
Guatemala
Salvador
9,600
600,000
Honduras
40,000
400,000
Nicaragua
Costa Kica
40,000
275,816
(1882)
21,000
200,000
161,200
2,675,816
of the
country can
be given.
Yet
was right
it
well
and so
may
mountain-
far as
W.
20''
N.)
in
there
is
20'' S.
a
to
occupying
If
we can
that
of
it is
vast ocean,
we
shall
GUATEMALA.
The
which were
of
equal.
and
now
torrents.
out
finish,
statue blocked
river valleys,
then climb
changed, but the nature of his path had been wonderfully transformed.
Geologists
know
these lines of
integrated material
and ashes
is
dis-
ous
and
vari-
All these
full force.
made,
built
promontories
as
Coseguina,
islands
as
Lake
in the
of Nicaragua,
rivers,
every mountain-brook,
Aguas
calientes,
of Mexico,
of
silver
in
are
common on
lime-
is
trachytic
lava,
such as
exactly
as
extensive an
so
have at present at
of
this
its
it
is
inter-
mala
vador
feet)
of
3,250
somewhat lower
feet.
Honduras and
Sal-
sinking to
and
level in
its
Veragua
much
axis
to about
nearer
being in San
it,
and in Guatemala
Towards the Pacific the slope
fifty.
steep, interrupted
by many volcanoes
while on the
is
broken into
In the
oceanic valleys and along the coast are the only low-
GUATEMALA.
of volcanoes, limestone
ultural purposes.
In Guatemala the
mean
is
The
the Department of
is
Huehuetenango,
is
and
stone,
of caverns),
full
and
Chama
of the
(of lime-
Honduras
feet.
Range
of British
de
Sierra
and separating
Of
San
this range
Gil,
is
the
Montana
near Livingston
stone, but
del
the material
is
no longer lime-
we have
of
some
del Merendon,
Guatemala
which forms the boundary between
and Spanish Honduras
and with various names it finally ends in
Last
importance.
the
Sierra
the Montana de
Omoa on
the coast,
of the
main chain
an important land-
all
names
fertile valleys,
Be-
the Llano
CENTRAL AMERICA.
of
In Nicaragua the
to fifteen miles.
five
7
rido-es
its
territory
is
From
the broad valley the land again rises towards Costa Rica,
where
it
hundred
feet,
From
Veragua the
the table-land of
Panama.
Rivers are,
factors
the
in
aspect
of
the
land
and
in
From
size.
watershed
is
bean Sea
Juan
The lower
the
sources of
American
rivers
is
or navigable portion
known
still
un-
explored.
multiplied,
and
unknown
describes as important
it
deep, and
On
which
know only
may
sees
cross knee-
as a brook.
GUATEMALA.
is
nearly twenty-seven
which has
liardly a
If it
fathom
of
when
the floods
navigation
the
navigable, although
mouth
(Istapa)
Chief
it
its
admit
was here
fleets.
to
among them
find their
all
is
way
the noble
through a singularly
fertile
is
many
navigable
miles
human race,
by white men, and the home of
The
is
the principal
g-oods.
None but
is
as
far
as the
rapids of
timber-cutters disturb
at present the
most useful
is
Gracias a Dios.
its solitudes.
river of
navigable for
The Polochic
Guatemala.
It
rises
its
is
seasons
steamers, except
for light-draft
much
navigable
volume
its
of
are
in very dry
materially
is
It flows
From Gualan
Quiche.
The Motagua
of sand.
and
it is
is
nearly
rises
navigable in canoes.
Smaller
Finally
we
of the
" Nicaragua Canal " route, but not at present navigable
any
for boats of
size.
commerce require a
the depth of water
for
wherever
sufficient,
more than
six
feet.
the
it,
common enough
The Laguna
of Central America.
hundred
feet
above the
The Lago de
broad.
Solola, is
Tollman
fifteen feet.
sea, nine
Atitlan,
del Peten
is
in
the
five
Department
about
San Lucas
of a thousand feet.
will
be
described
in the Itinerary.
the
this
Of Honduras, the
Laguna de Caratasca,
or Cartago,
chief
lakes
close
are
GUATEMALA.
10
Lago de Yojoa, between the Departments of Comayagua and Santa Barbara, twenty-five
the Lago de
miles long and from five to eight wide
Cartina, eighteen miles by eight, and the Laguna de la
twelve wide
the
Criba, fifteen
by seven
Of
miles.
all
America, none
is
of Nicaragua.
largest south of
Lake Michigan.
forty),
Of a depth
fathoms in
by
places),
and the
sufficient
and con-
nected with the Atlantic by the Rio San Juan, with the
Lago de Managua
Tipitapa,
it
(thirty-five miles
by sixteen), by the
may
as
at
in
Lempa
to the Pacific.
discharge
through
disturbance in
its
midst
the volcanoes.
With
of
the country,
we may
some
of the
join
prominent features
what was
Guatemala
may
Leaving
be described as follows
The
11
by far the
The
Pacific side
an upland of a
above the sea, bounded
central part
by a chain
feet
is
of volcanic peaks
beyond
The Gulf
(centsonatl).
is
said to be the
On
and
most beautiful harbor
La Union, a town
of little
facilities of
five
hundred inhabitants
first
the Pacific
and were
the town,
it
its in-
La Union.
of
Acajutla
has but
is
all
;
80^ Falir.
is
the prin-
is
it is
much
frequented, and
pier, as is Libertad.
In 1882 the
since
Mines of gold,
and anthracite
coal are found within the borders of Salvador, the principal being
The
capital
1,
1528, by Jorge de
site
afterwards
in the valley
De
los
was removed
Hamacas, where
it
but
to its
it
has
GUATEMALA.
12
been
many
which
The
republic
twenty-nine
is
divided
districts,
fourteen
into
departments,
towns.
Principal Cities.
Departments.
The
Ana
Santa Ana.
Santa
Ahuacliapan.
Ahuachapan.
(25,000).
Sonsonate.
Sonsonate (8,000).
La
Libertad.
San Salvador.
Chalateuango.
Chalatenango.
Cuscatlan.
Cojutepeque.
La Paz.
San Vincente.
Cabanas.
Sensuntepeque.
Usulutan.
Usulutau.
San Miguel.
San Miguel.
Gotera.
Gotera.
La Union.
legislative
power
is
exercised by
sentative
and
and a
two chambers,
each Department
his substitute.
is
in
should there be no
election
by an absolute
who have
three citizens
votes.
The term
re-election.
of
office
The
is
four
judiciary
is
years,
without
immediate
and
will be described
as in
declared,
ages
the
between
and
eighteen
of
13
fifty
are
military
to
liable
duty.
and the
boys',
rest
girls');
of
Civil Engineering,
it
and
Miii:uel.
tele-
offices
by the
Government.
In
1879 the
exports
the
imports were
$4,122,888.05
expenditures
the
$1,945,201,
and the
$2,549,160.19,
$2,785,068.
floating
no foreign debt.
is
Salvador
is
essentially
an agricultural
state,
and
coffee,
and
from her
fertile fields.
Honduras.
covers an
Its
The
republic
of Central
America
square miles.
diversified
its
surface
third
and
plentiful streams.
region, as at
is
fertile
Its climate
is
low.
Never
GUATEMALA.
14
summer
SO hot as a
cold as to check a
of spring
and summer as he
astronomical year.
an alternation
traveller has
changes his
New England
in
side, in
seem
to provide
vast jDlains in
of use
Comayagua
The
year to Cuba.^
forests,
and
coast-region
Atlantic
of
the
mountain-slopes
all
on the Atlantic
sometimes
without smelting
reported.
her
of remarkable richness.
magnetite,
all
sister republics.
chiefly
Beds of
so pure that
it
iron exists as
may
and zinc
Cop-
be
worked
have been
antimony,
tin,
lignite are
also
Gracias
of
Puerto
1
Cortez,
This business
is
such
as
declining,
bananas,
owing
to
plantains,
the inferior
cattle
coconuts,
produced
in
pines, for
is
little
is
now
increasing.
rivalling,
Cuban
exported
valleys
Orleans.
the
Of indigo
is
the leaf
is
but the
New
Especially fine
when
demand from
a constant
15
common
cigars,
for
In
In later
Pedro,
thirty-seven
miles
railroad
to
San
it is
is
it
deserves.
The government
is
Departments.
Mas
is
Cliief Cities.
de la Bahia.
Yoro.
Yoro.
Olaneho.
Juticalpa.
Paraiso.
Yuscaran.
Tegucigalpa.
Tegucigalpa (12,000).
Choluteca.
Choluteca.
La Paz.
Comayagua.
La Paz.
Comayagua
Santa Barbara.
Santa Barbara.
Gracias.
Gracias.
Copan.
Santa Eosa.
Colon.
Trujillo.
(10,000).
any nationality
at
low
rates,
provided they
GUATEMALA.
16
will cultivate
some
of
plain
above the
feet
It possesses
and
sea,
sur-
a Universidad
visible the
works
of
monuments of
a people more
the
work
antiquity,
the
less perishable
of
of
Amapala,
on the Island
little
was
for-
making
it is
no
it
it,
from
on the north
87 57'
New
the death of
Spain,
Omoa.
15""
49' N.,
was the
of
For more
The bay
is
Omoa,
entrejjot
as Cortez
and longitude
close
some
coast, in latitude
Now
South Sea.
to shore.
called
in latitude 15 47' N.
side,
its
principal
may come
is
to the wharves.
and longitude 88
5'
W..
Fernando.
Trujillo,
now growing
of a noble bay, is
but
it
17
it is
The Bay
tance.
feet
of Central
voyage,
five
sea.
its
is
is
by nine
land
his fourth
This group
miles.
first
and with a
is fertile,
of
fine
mate
of
ceases to grow,
by
the
''
when
an
arctic
cli-
vegetation
all
artificial heat,
months
of life in
is
toil
wearily four
to sustain
him
all
The
history of
even since
its
revolt
but in 1865 a
new Con-
stitution
quiet.
side,
of the
known
mixed
as Xicaques
and Poyas.
was the
GUATEMALA.
18
had
with
its origin,
to do
little
The
internal debt
Nicaragua.
Nicaragua
is
is
Of
about $2,000,000.
nearly the same area as Honduras,
chiefly distinguished
by
its
Europeans.
fatal to
about 80
is
(ex-
70 at
F., falling to
The
the
night,
and
rising to
wet from
May
months.
At
to
elsewhere the
Geologically, Nicaragua
in
Pacific,
variety of
is
no
less
Lago de
is
summer
rain-
than ten.
less rich
than Honduras
volcanic formations
about
The
rich in
porphyries, suc-
is
alluvial
19
$200,000.
it.
the army.
above
all
other countries
in
this
wonderfully
be assured.
in the
way
quiet at last
up
establishments,
it is
military
fertile
drill,
the
prosperity
and
all
be induced to give
military
the
of
Military pronimciami-
It
of justice
Eden might be
shares,
Would
that this
officers
turn
!
their
GUATEMALA.
20
Nicaragua
is
1882
Chief Cities.
Departments.
12,000
Managua
Granada
Leon
51,056
26,389
Granada
Leon
25,000
Rivas
Chinandega
16,H75
Rivas
10,000
17,578
Chinandega
Chontales
27,738
Libertad
Managua
....
....
.
7,800
16,000
11,000
5,000
51,699
Matagalpa
9,000
Nueva Segovia
36,902
Ocotal
3,000
Matagalpa
San Juan
del Norte
Mosquitia
2,000
Grey town
36,000
Blewfields
1,512
1,000
With
is
San Juan
del
with sand.
The
and, best of
all,
Realejo.
Among
the
1876 by a
land-slide, but
collegiate
town
is
now^ rebuilt.
of the republic,
and
is
Granada
is
the
on the shores of
of eight
In
21
offices.
was
whole population.
The Mosquito
coast cuts
Guatemala
trouble.
of hers
and
this has
when
is
Honduras robs
from 1655
of Great Britain
ony
of Belize in
this
coast,
still
1860, she
in
col-
but there
Costa Rica.
The
fifth
square miles.
is
The Atlantic
coast
is
Between
and an elevated
forests are
largely
composed
of
is
table-
the
The
tropical fruits
GUATEMALA.
22
On
mercial
town,
and on the
Limon
is
Punta Arenas.
Pacific,
In
but
f ^
from both
of
$5,058,059.60, with
them never
the avowed
more than
received
intention of building
twenty-four
Limon to CarThe country
liabilities
indeed,
its
its
and internal
sales of land,
The
one
legislature
for
composed
each electoral
is
of a Congress of Deputies,
district,
holding
Justicia are
elected
The departments
is
office
six
The mem-
by Congress.
are,
Ct-'
Chief
Departments.
San Jose
Cartago
Heredia
Alajuela
....
....
.
Guanacaste
Punta Arenas
The population
45,000
San Jose
36,000
Cartago
30,000
Heredia
Alajuela
Cities,
15,000
9,000
6,000
29,000
8,000
Liberia
6,000
Punta Arenas
is
10,000
2,000
1,800
estimated by M. Belly.
Guatemala has been accepted (1886) by both Nicaragua and Costa Rica
ters of
mat-
the darkness
its
23
too
little is
known
am
well aware
light
little
of the country,
on
beyond
come when
or
fires
human
passions.
and
capitalist,
merits
and
United States,
not
necessarily
by
our
rice, all
political annexation,
our chocolate,
all
all
our
our india-rubber
ought to come from Central America, where these products can be raised better and cheaper than in any other
country
and next
now unknown
com-
to
and Livingston.
of
and
better quality
Indies.
West
natural cultivation of sugar, and Florida cease her useless striving to raise really
of
you
to go with
it,
me
so far as
you
can, with
my
GUATEMALA.
24
eyes
and
is
ended,
we
the
ethnology, the
we journey
the
volcanoes,
if
flora
and fauna,
to
of the irregularity
through.
of the
CHAPTER
II.
\ S
the
JTx.
actly
so little
shores
hills
earth, sky,
shoulders
range
eastward
feathery coconuts
of
the
low
the
before
by a long limestone
cliff
on
For a while
the year
1525,
with
here
shore,
the
marked
westward
the
to
visible in the
his broad
Cays, covered
him the
while
Caribs,
of British
rise
sea,
Guatemala.
of
houses
and
the Cockscomb
of
ITS CONNECTIONS.
vessel's
sides
of
but no break
landward horizon.
all
is
as
came
to
shore
after
Cortez, in
his
it
terrible
little
vil-
of his country-
mammosa)
men
little
from starving.
Waiting
in the early
dawn
to save the
imagina-
GUATEMALA.
26
and
sails
both
banishes
all
day-dreams.
the
features
of
the
shore unfold,
the
coco-palms
of
cliff
We
and shape.
of various size
and we are
in the
mouth
of
On
and
Livingston
in front of this
is
us, the
The
tance,
making landing
know
We
may
was declared a
than a
size at
dis-
was comforting to
a wharf had been obtained, and
difficult.
It
not cause
steep
free
in the offing,
offices
the cus-
is
discomfort.
men
did
above which
is
the
town.
Springs burst
ITS CONNECTIONS.
27
the
pools,
others
their
bent over
children
Some
stood
in
the washing-stones,
in
the water,
while
Barrack Point,
Livingston.
Our abode was on the Campo Santo Viejo, the burialhill of former days, and right across our path lay the
empty tomb of a son of Carrera, the former President of
Guatemala as we passed this we noted the admirable
;
its
On
so strong that
this resting-place
dwell.
It
is
GUATEMALA.
28
both the river and the native town, where are also the
stores
and the
hotels.
and topography
may convey
be drained, but
is
the geographical
all
knowledge needed.
not
wet weather
or of
mud
covered with
plaster
high roofs
stores here
and there
of
and occupied by
Americans
{del
built of boards
foreigners,
Norte)
New
Orleans,
French, Germans,
from
Italians,
on
chapel
dilapidated
or
among
beyond
of
ages playing in
all
the
passer-by
with
on a beautiful point
the
their
dirt
shiny,
black,
children
faces
wholly
this
uncultivated,
place.
No
scattered
make
are
vehicles
external
the
in
the
features
streets,
though a
is
carried on
house-doors are
all
the heads of
open
much
men
or
women.
is
of
Every
The
generally
lies
the
new Campo
The
situation of Livingston
one of the
is
good,
at the
mouth
of
America.
is
ITS CONNECTIONS.
New
with
with
New
Liverpool,
make
it
29
lines of steamers
an important business-centre.
All the fine coffee from Alta Verapaz and the fruit from
the plantations on the Chocon and Polochic
here
is
shipped
As
if
obtained at
is
no
is
and
for
town
visitor
but very
profitable business.
place
when
was an
el
As
dorado
soil
a stranger, I
;
was
brisk,
of unequalled richness
was
grew with;
that the
summer reigned
that
GUATEMALA.
30
The process
it
the
it
first
day at breakfast.
hill,
American
was not an
unpleasant one
began
for
Eleven o'clock
style.
is
in genuine Hispano-
dinner,
work and
rest.
differing
The
menu
was constant
an
two
little
ward.
when
took
boys, one
With our
ex-
with the
coJBEee,
coffee
we
but
its place.
of
also failed
of a coarse
replen-
No
supply
of anything
light
coming
from the open doors at either end. There was but the
earth, hard trodden, for the floor, and the furnishing was
simple enough,
a rough
table
chairs.
dirtiness.
It
seemed absurd to
colors,
call for
31
and the
dishes
ITS CONNECTIONS.
and degrees
a clean plate
of
but
of
and a
helped us
friends
polite
observation
little
of the habits
much
new
our
in
circumstances.
A
and
large
to
would take
bits
cats
much
at last
Several
so
my
my
chair,
to be driven out
when-
waddle under
of tortilla
had
from
hand.
felt
hat on a
of one of
In spite
ample
justice to
As
ment
the ancient
we
and did
it.
Romans
in their luxury
had entertain-
for the
had a constantly
simplicity
we
movmg panorama
in our
at
our
street door.
wish, walked by, with every burden, however insignificant, balanced on the head.
would a heavy
fine forms,
both of
procession
and the
latter
Some
part of this
bust perfectly.
soldier
all
GUATEMALA.
32
It
good bread.
In our walks about the town
invited into the houses, and so
we were
often politely
had a chance
The tuberous
to see the
roots of the
manioc
swallowed.
mahogany board
is
deadly
juice,
when
is
washed
is
removed, and
settles
in the
is
care-
made afterwards
eter,
sit
in turn, or together
is
dexterously
The
dried,
result is a
on an excursion.
if
and
is
capital
Later on,
rejected,
emaciated
and serves
to
human frame
fill
when
all
other food
The
ITS CONNECTIONS.
we bought from
Fine oranges
33
a tree in the
(five
cents).
The
tration
and
fine
fort
up the camera
set
to
photograph
illus-
come
to him.
it,
who
we
attracted the
at once ordered us
wanted
'"
leave at once.
this
and he begged us
same garrison
it
is
to
related that
they
all
house here,
which
it
all
was
come home.
safe to
The
tell
light-
Below
canoas.
is
all
dug out
of single
mahogany
or cedar logs, and are not only well made, but of good
form.
Some
and
home on
men
the water.
women
The
paddled as
GUATEMALA.
34
Some
of the
we noted more
and the
in Livingston,
stranger
new
for
carefully, as there is
little
The
fish.
no fish-market
always interesting to a
fish are
may
be the fruits of a
clime, the
who
first
ate
Desmodmm
of the sensitive-plant
grass
the
in
which
tiny
are
these,
insects
an intolerable itching,
any
see
called
all
coloradia,
parts, causing
easily
bay-rum applications.
we
however, hj salt-water or
nor did
{Mimosa pudicans)
we used no
allayed,
Mos-
nettings
house-flies.
sharks
and refreshing
as
coast-region.
Caribs,
of Alta
In
those
its
early history
splendid negroes
principally inter-
the
outlet of the
fruits of
the Atlantic
is
it
was a settlement
who were
of
driven from
ITS CONNECTIONS.
35
when
still
way
to the interior
Spanish post
it
was moved
far
up
the
fort of
mies.
Not only
Home Government
has-
tened the decay and disuse of this port, and the banks of the
little
An
foreign capital,
first
The
the
shipping-port
was Livingston
occupied by business
the population
and
river
is
may
men
now
The shores
are high
secure.
Polochic,
built
and
was by the
now
wastes
its
strength
lie
is
at
an important business.
for sugar
GUATEMALA.
36
or cotton cultivation
and speedier returns, bananas and planThe Government detertains are the chief products.
which have hitherto
mined to develop these lands,
dense
forests and the
their
been left to the solitude of
capital required,
occasional
intrusion
of
the mahogany-cutter,
rates
and
in
in
The
and
the
of
eastern
coast.
and are
tracts,
cul-
is
it
may
truly
Never has
summer.
yel-
of
The rapid
is
increase
of
population and
its
facilities.
ill
it
is
well to state
Pioneers
and
frontiersmen
life itself.
should
not
be
recruited
ITS CONNECTIONS.
and undaunted
37
in the
men
built houses
have
useful brothers
when
as eleventh-hour assistants,
ground and
still
this class.
felled the
l^ut
the
forest
and shops
first
for these
weaker but
colonists
must be
of
sterner stuff.
memory
of their visit.
In 1881 the
little
struction of
The exigencies
the
of
new town
deepest
been
village.
no river
but
it
Bay
of
lies
Motagua.
From
miles
Belize,
to
New
Livingston to
125
to Kingston,
90
and
to
Jamaica, 800
to Izabal,
45
to Izabal,
900
is
;
to
to Pansos,
and mule-
is
Belize
from
six
New
New
Orleans, seven to
glance at a
map
will
New
as well as
GUATEMALA.
38
New York
is
ranch
from
to the metropolis
Aspinwall
of time
and avoidance
and when
dangers of navigation
of the
which Livingston
is
bility that
all
New
now
to this saving
and shipping
developing, there
fruit
great proba-
is
coffee
is
all
the
of a port
moment
if
there
is
pov-
its
The
little
along the banks of the Rio Dulce, are easily seen, and in
their present condition
nothing
offer
No
Eden.
or especially
interesting.
is
systematic cultivation
the crops
new
is
for the
pines
grow
known
in this region,
and
Garden
of
forest (which
is
done
in
June.
hoe
No
is sufficient
is
most handy
labor of keep-
table
ITS CONNECTIONS.
is
foreign weeds.
is
39
from
as yet free
been imported
and on the
laid
them indigenous.
may
is
made with
The
each year.
Upland
is
on the
soil,
known
raised
unknown
a result
each year.
follow-
seventeen feet
in
At present
cane
is
demand
chewing.
common
all
become very
is
fa-
many
of
them
common
New England
pastures.
GUATEMALA.
40
and
To grow
apples.
suckers,
either,
now
is
No
series of years.
pounds to a
to
remove the
which there
fibre, of
base
its
finished stem
the valuable
all
It is only necessary to
planting elsewhere.
long
The stem
fruit.
is
an average
of three
stalk.
When we
ation of
to this
turn from what is done here to the considerwhat may be, the interest vastly increases and
;
end
let
from a valley
of great extent
and
unknown
man.
and
its
is
unknown
source
but
it
manned and
provisioned,
and
The
to help us
we
up the
light
Dulce, but no
and sugar-cane.
from luxurious
outfit
is
usuall}^ far
was no exception
ITS CONNECTIONS.
41
to the rule.
the forest, and our crew consisted of Guillermo, an attractive looking but
his oil-stove
filled
the
little
cabin
one
side,
night
me
we had
Folding-
San
river.
Gil,
we were
which stretches
As we advanced, the
we entered a gorge
far finer
than that
";
GUATEMALA.
42
of the
Saguenay
Cana-
dian stream are here replaced by white limestone precipices jealously covered with
its
The
river
is
deep, in places
distance.
Frank shot
wing;
us,
but the
feet
fast-
waning daylight warned us against delay and as darkness fell upon us with tropical rapidity, we came to the
lake-like Golfete, nine miles from Livingston, and an;
off
the
little
them,
so
was it in itself.
Grand San Gil brushed the clouds from his forehead
and looked down smilingly upon us in promise of a
beautiful
day as we
up the
sailed
ITS CONNECTIONS.
Golfete.
43
short leao-ue
regular cube,
tion
rising
foliage.
mind
a sacrificial altar, or
to see
any way
We
stele.
of access
side to promise
and we determined
an entrance to an
to try
it
some other
time.^
If the
was
still
harder to find
and but
Two
river.
tian
palace,
an Egyp-
opposite
each
other at
the
were ready,
giving us an unpleasant
but
entrance,
rifles
reminder of what
beetles,
color,
while
and
humming-birds
butterflies of hues
of
almost
seldom
every bright
seen in cooler
we gath-
but no
human
remains.
cli-
plants,
GUATEMALA.
44
felt
weariness
the
seeing.
of
white passion-
little
of plants
At
palms
we ascended
but as
the banks at
flood,
first
had been
there
were no
growing gradually
appeared,
last
to us,
The
foothold.
came
nate-leaved,
and
stemmed
finally,
species,
first
spines
species
then an
Our
first
long
unknown
but
with dreadful
astrocarya,
nuts
graceful,
its
full force
entered.
Bambus bent
this
was the
case.
tall
reeds in blossom
waved
them.
With
down stream we
noticed queer
and
it
At
last
was
we came
their fruit,
to
but what
now
ripening,
like in size
that
and
furnished our
ITS CONNECTIONS.
45
be disagreeable of animal
along shore
life
we plunge
that
As
and as we
we made
fast to
little
dead tree
more
laid, I
explored
Water-logged and
was a
perfect
image of
life
in
death
every part
for
it
its
in place.
On
one side
know
time
^
tlie
fine
cereus, while
We
interstices.
mosses and
little bats,^
These were vampiie bats (Phyllostoma sp.) and several times afterwards
cattle that had been so severely bitten that the blood was still dripping
;
we saw
Livingston
wings,
GUATEMALA.
46
we
or
as
was, the
it
pro-
veils
tected us.
was a strange bed-chamber. The river, black beneath and around us, was silent enough for the current
hardly rippled against our boat, no wind moved the
It
leaves,
we waited
stillness
while
for sleep.
bird
awake
but
its terrible
all
cry
was repeated
until
seemed to
around
us.
and we
it
of our boat.
but
all easily
more tran-
though we thought we
Sumatran jungle
were
slept
it
real tiger's
was not
so
howl
terrible
in the
as
this
So far the country through which we passed was worthless for agricultural
we came
to
purposes
until they
this
were
first shot,
three others
reach them.
fell
we
could
ITS CONNECTIONS.
47
fore the
I did
as a native.
Female Iguanas.
mouth
and yet
who
it
enjoy
make
certainly
its
tail,
down
company.
its
delicate white
of
is
meat
a most excelis
not unlike
five or
GUATEMALA.
48
six dozen
are
all
Being good
after
is
sometimes of sixty to
snggestive of broken
wind
fall
or at
ribs,
from green
of various hues
trees.
We
and
color,
had much
less difficulty
than
Columbus and
In the afternoon a
neighborhood
above
this
large boat,
of
boom
mahogany-cutters,
and
showed the
short
and we made
fast to a tree
row
we
to land,
we continued up stream
" in
in the little
return,
not,
"
It
the
they call
them guanas. Unto that day none of owre men durste aduenture to taste of
them, by reason of theyre horrible deformitie and lothsomnes. Yet the Adelantado being entysed by the pleasantnes of the king's sister, Anacaona, determined to taste the serpentes. But when he felte the flesh thereof to be so
The which thyng
delycate to his tongue, he fel to amayne -without al feare.
his companions perceiuing, were not behynde hym in greedyness insomuch
;
partriches."
now none
Peter
3Iartyr, decad.
i.
book
v.
tropics,
ITS CONNECTIONS.
that there
upper foliage
but so dense
no chance
is
49
is
the
up
into the
which cling
above, or orchids,
light
to,
vanilla,
if
the
like
its
presence con-
soil
to the
When
three names applied to as many stages of growth.
young and stemless, it is onanaca ; in middle age, when
the bases of the old leaves
cohune
stem
is
corozo.
in
stem and
cohune and
but
very valuable
some
common
none so
Other
in blossom,
fruit.
these,
Later on we
leaf.
its
the smooth
I believe
in fruit,
scales,
it is
some
but
fruit,
still
measured fourteen
feet of
is
a catch-basin
and
tor-
rential floods
When
the
later, the
its
summer
rich
deposit.
we found
A gigantic
the river, and
river.
two
from
selves
60
GUATEMALA.
Barbecue
at Benito.
ITS CONNECTIONS.
51
must greatly
in-
The
difficulty is
form
on these
frail supports,
watched the
they so speedily
fell
built
is
and balanced
axe.
A plat-
in this way.
enough, a " barbecue "
called, strangely
cutters,
(they call
it
have
hard-wood
tree,
with no better vantage than two poles for their bare feet
to cling to.
and
in
little light.
damp
We
feeling,
saw
sarsa-
new
thing to view
but
it
was
river,
less oppressive
on the
While on the
river,
we looked up on
we saw some
curious
land.
long-legged
to
move
which
their legs,
they
be,
it
except
have
We
whose
often
spring, without
GUATEMALA.
52
and
clear
cool,
closing,
loiter
Progreso."
we hardly
light filtered
The
black river as
it
We
could see
and should
we almost
we ever get
monkeys and
full
down
there,
stream, and
A
is
very bright,
warm morning
almost too
ter
warm
way down
my
seemed
83.
it
thermome-
persisted in indicating
little
but here
men
it
was loaded
and as
fingers dipped in
stream.
my
to
hands
water on both
sides.
It
to balance,
quiver,
Add
for us
we
if
it
were ready
bank, as
like needles
catch by.
chete in
many
of the
up the
steep,
my hand
sp.),
but the
first
53
I could not,
inches across.
because he said
it,
ITS CONNECTIONS.
eyes).
it
It
all
common
los ojos
wings
me
through the
I will
forest,
may
We
plants.
my
like the
and often
little wells,
which pass
ning beneath
from one
feet.
by underground aqueducts.
to another
and again
Again
the trees or
and
insis^nificant
Slutrorish
uncommon on
the trees
but noth-
some animals.
The
was the
entire absence of
resort of trouble-
any
fallen or de-
matter
barrel,
The
insects
had eaten
all
this unpleasant
and
in one place
air,
in the forest,
GUATEMALA.
54
able,
our aid
Santiago came to
thirst.
and from
tasteless water.
it
of
which we
would
block
Section of
Vejuco de Agua.
all
run
was
once above, and
at
On
the
so
it
palm-trees
shells that
cut
retreat.
its
The
if
sizes,
We
Several mahogany-trees
in our way,
came
and baobabs
Rising
of India.
with a straight and uniform stem far above the surrounding trees, they then spread their dense foliage like a
Rosewood, palo de
many
The
air
we dashed
was
water
was
78.
it
before.
we
and
bones of
fluted
mammoth
in
size,
selaginellas,
just like
55
like
was
ITS CONNECTIONS.
smooth
surface,
sj)iders
one rock
On
in,
and on the
volume
of the river.
we came
Still
we
de-
on
heavy cayuco
GUATEMALA.
56
of part of our
Wild
good
figs of
size
came tumbling
when
mahogany mortars
While we
ripe.
it
dragged
re-
over
it
and mahogany
for rice-hulling,
ters.
from
is
plat-
time they
in this leisure
they
the Boca, or
sell at
we saw another
turned,
machete
spoon,
mouth
is
put
and
shovel,
now
pump-handle,
a fishing-rod
fish
one.
On
weighing some
five
was
hammer,
door-bolt,
pounds
shadow
In the afternoon
been building.
re-
it is
back-scratcher,
blind-fastener,
As we
of the river.
we
inspected the
language
we heard
Soon
main
posts of
and bundles
of manaca-leaves
In an incredibly short
immense
leaves,
it
ITS CONNECTIONS.
was necessary
is
made
of the mancica
we had
feet long.
roof,
which
to split each,
57
formed the
sides of the
champa
sea,
Butts
and then
men
labor of five
it
was
of
the
Caesars.
One morning
moored.
fine balloon-vine
(Cardiospermum) hung in
It
down
I.
may
many
bill of
when
add, are,
and
maturer days.
first
eyes,
as daintily as
for eggs
but I have
The young
hatched, most amusing
and without the long
kind.
among
little
nests,
of tree-ferns,
we were
wondered
if
of his
if
living in the
champa.
cut some
my
sticks
for
an
machete at a
GUATEMALA.
58
As he
of
says,
they get into the tree by boring a small hole, and then
way through
eat their
tower
many
the
came
was tenanted by
to light.
is
farm these
I tried in
What
first
little
know
accommodations.
Pleasant as this
life
startling
how many
we had
things
tall
reeds with
of the
flowers of
as transparent,
the
blue herons
arum
butter-
that
Frank shot a
me
The Naturalist
in Nicaragua,
by Thomas
Belt, p. 222.
an-
ITS CONNECTIONS.
who
alligator,
59
turned over,
Altogether, the
voyage down was more agreeable than the hard run up.
Trees that were bare a few days before were
now
covered
floated
down
flat
tops.
We
and
dawn anchored
at Livingston.
San
Gil,
in
Livingston.
fertile
and capable
sailed
of pro-
Frank and
finca,
where cane,
rose-apples,
and
coconuts were
all
jumbled
together
at
GUATEMALA.
60
ment
capital
of
And
of
here
let
me
write
them
of 1885.
Santo Tomas
of
failure
is
legislative
decree
reputation,
and
census.
Its
April,
of
established
1843,
it
there
by a
its
number
nificant
beautifully situated
of a
last
is
is
to connect
and
coast,
so unite
a wharf some
struct
in
length
to
not
Add
this that
to
Barrios
laid
is
out
castle,
Tomas
lie,
the
swamp
(on
of
the
at present
paper)
theatre,
site
in
fine
bad weather.
city of
Puerto
uninhabitable, although
hippodrome, and
in
the
elements of a
rank.
The splendid
all
first
abun-
dant in the old village, while here even the palms are
dwarfed.
we
We
had heard
ITS CONNECTIONS.
61
know
the truth.
stances
to work,
under which
of
men were
circum-
induced to go
in
New
there
Orleans and
Puerto Barrios.
fortunes in a
diet, clothing,
If
If
in a
newly cleared
sani-
tary conditions.
country.
and general
Now,
GUATEMALA.
62
amount
negligence a large
in
men were
men who
left
and that
of sickness resulted,
complaints printed
the
newspapers
the
of
I
justified.
United
met
my
opinion
men
unfortunate
is
what
these
me.
told
and had
it off
belonged to
it
down
six miles,
and
rails
thirty-ton locomotive,
I should
some
me
it
I will
was graded
were
(in
which had
to
The
March, 1885)
;
but the
half the size could do, could run only over three miles, the
grade
is
also being
No
this end.
great
engineering
is
numerous small
large snakes of
the workmen.
came
in diameter, close
able
creeks.
volume
by the
track,
when
cooled, but while in the pool too hot to put one's finger
in.
Bubbles,
freely
escaped
and
all
ITS CONNECTIONS.
cool
63
brook
who drank
We
it.
Sulphur Spring.
From Tenedores
up the valley
of the
Motagua
to Gualan, thence
up the
and thence
the road
to
now
Guatemala
in operation
City,
where
from that
it
will connect
city to
with
San Jose, on
New
numerous steamship
Orleans,
New
lines
we must
again men-
from Livingston
to
GUATEMALA.
64
and England.
amply
are
able to supply
The lowlands
products.
all tropical
New
Orleans,
New
York, and
Puntas on Manabique.
Tres
The climate
healthful
is
is
seems to
and
exist.
is
wanted
to develop this
United States.
the
strong
is
and
so
Sugar can
cer-
One day
York.
New
New
New
life in
day
lies),
and
which
of soil,
We
ics
is
and where
few years.
but
is
it
known
generally
that
Should the new product, saccharine, meet with favor, the planting]; of cane
and coal-tar will supply the sweet things of
Coal is " sweetness and light "
as well as the flavors and colors.
coo-
consumption in
1
is
employ
He sometimes
year numbered
youths
who
necks
while
seven,
one
centenarian,
and
from coconut-trees
fell
in
America
a thousand, in round
65
ITS CONNECTIONS.
and two
broke
their
The objection
to
being
among a
was
oljject
and
what
if
my
me through
may
best
my
may form
their
own
opinions.
CHAPTER
III.
THE
last
leave
by water.
it,
''
(which
it is
not)
its
five
and a
we
cared
floored,
;
called cedar
beam
triangular
sails,
qualities
and
wind
fair
but
on the present
removed, we made
easily
toldo
little
As
voyage.
half.
had,
its
feet,
this
We
fine native
wood they
this time
quite
stowed
men had
after
with a
comfortable
the
part,
which was
temporary
amidships,
roof,
while
We
had our
or
our
when
less
than
five
days.
The
Theirs
year
cliffs
is
fading
I
never
saw such a
all
it
Now
was prominent
when
all
it
in its
a cereus with
tree.
crimson blossoms
asleej)
on a white
tree.
feet of the
not
more
far
is
so
me
in July,
new
presented a
it
aglow.
almost every
very Proteus,
saw
which comes
glory,
are
river,
G7
kill
down
him,
it
was
and
was
obstinately refused
quite as near as
and should
my
bullet
wound but
might wriggle
Porpoises were
was
it
common
far
up into the Golfete, where they were pursuing the abundant freshwater
fish.
we
Our
average
New
slightly less
in
stature
than the
Englander.
Spanish
fort,
we allowed our
We
and
it
GUATEMALA.
68
is
and
It
is
well
of
built
and the waves of the lago dash against the walls, which
are gradually yielding to the insinuating roots of
plants,
even
commelyna joining
a delicate blue
many
in the
The van
was
led
by a
fine
months
later.
we came
to a slight
wharf
any
looking place
and when
men
fire.
;
of
coffee-pot,
amusement
little
and
He was
this useless
wretch brought
eggs
three
could be found.
in
we walked to
which we did not ask Santiago to join,
not visible,
were
but the officials
the little Comandancia
;
Its
sketch by F. E. Blaisdell.
its
Seal,
complete repair.
Nov.
7,
1658, and an
The plan
is
from a
little
The plan
to the
is
WESTWARD TO COBAN.
fort, as
69
town.
rather peculiar, but doubtless well suited
The
doorless
we found a
court-
the bastion
steps, easily
gun-deck.
is
law
of the
in
defended
whole
so that
but
wished that
my
the
and here
edifice,
have
there,
the
magazine
but doorless,
wooden wheels,
roofed,
the
indeed,
whole bus-
ners as to any
Some
enemy
outside.
were
orange-trees
fine
would be
fruit
ammunition
suitable
San
Felipe,
and we
sailed
Castillo de
San Felipe.
We
were completely
in the
hands
to be very limited
less,
we
suffered
GUATEMALA.
70
them
when, as we
after-
we
Rio Polochic
selected as
map
but the
see, as
lifted
we caught
sky attracted us
we
still
where
At two
we landed
on a beach
at Sauce,
of black sand,
a formation
We
had no time
is
it
me
ex-
supposed to be non-volcanic.
to follow the
wliich puzzled
we
could
grew luxuriantly
limes,
as far, indeed, as
In
it
Goyavas grew
nized.
was
ruined by worms.
Here
first
we saw
which
is
griddle-cake.
then
the
71
hot,
and
tastes
tortilla
The
Guatemala
parched corn.
like
metatles
were
in
of very
all
simple
ed,
Mexico and
as those in
farther
southward,
serving
their
but
purpose
A woman
equally well.
tortillas is in
not deemed
fit
to
assume
ing
Making
Tortillas
more labor
in preparation
j^oi (paste of
mands more
in
physical labor.
The inhabitants
of the tropics
we procured meat
crisped
over
the
fire,
while
tortillas.
for
we bought
we continued
ourselves
After this
and enjoyed a
long strips
in
dark,
far
away on
boding
ill
GUATEMALA.
72
now
and the
ephemera were
cast skins of
full of
we
thick on
so
the
of clear water.
where we
and at
last,
least expected,
at high noon,
we
discovered
on a marshy promontory or
of
it,
delta.
on each
rent,
side,
way
grass plots
wave
as
if
cur-
made these
tops.
nine deojrees.
we found no com-
fortable landing-place.
At night we anchored
were very troublesome
in the stream,
we
could bear
lancets.
At
them no longer
men
six,
when we anchored
for
coffee.
its
many
vueltas
we
see,
but no time to
many
WESTWARD TO COBAN.
73
Close
fig-
trees
their wonderfully
human
faces peering
down
at the in-
little
One
manner.
As
tail.
upon
to cut
monkey
monkey,
memory
of a taste of
like the
Tyburn
thief,
''
is
and
indeed the
flat
falls,
We
no
when
effect
Still all
black-flies.
we afterwards
we heard
the howlers
3,
1883)
we hoped
us,
we
and
but in com-
By Saturday
from
men
work
however, we came to
of
or the
of
men's hands
little
on that morning,
GUATEMALA.
74
a good sized stream from the river flowed into the yard
us some
price.
tortillas,
eight
for a real.
it
make
as our food was nearly gone, and we were already depenThe river,
dent on the Caribs for their cassava-bread.
was
falling, so
courage.
spider-lily
fine
we
was
not
it
The blossoms
of the
we
and we were
was much
I also
of
saw
and about
behind
us,
when
if
in pursuit
it
As
the
current was very strong and the channel narrow, we hastened to make fast to a large fig-tree overhanging the
stream.
us,
to the current,
tree.
75
in a branch,
side as the
all
had
If
little
chance for
if
as soon
abated.
little
11!
"
''
:
Dd
good boat
filling,
would
had
we
n't sell
"
if
we drowned.
All night
we had
and
to our
We
seemed interminable.
mouth
river,
alligator.
of the Rio
He
We
fell
and
my
He jumped
ball struck
him
mouth
of the river
GUATEMALA.
76
and Pansos
dark before
nearly
human
smelt
still fled
habitations.
amused
Frank smiled
in his sleeve at
and at
at the
We
at
was
Not
but the
men
the
it
last,
without landing
The stupid
in
days
five
soldiers
flatly
allow us to land
refused to
we
Coban.
naked
mud by
with Santiago,
It
I started
At
way with
declined to
^-o
splinters of fat-
last the
But
waded.
soldiers
me
and
I
it
made the night bright to see the look these apolmen gave each other and the stranger who
almost
ogies for
ended as
it
returned to
the
steamer.
The
officers
of
the
but
him
opposed.
the
and
we
pleased.
slept
on the dining-
so in the
made
river
if
was drowned.
all
morning
comfort.
feeling
officers of the
77
and
steamer
men, and
in-
even
ceased,
we
full of
water.
As the comandante had not recovered from his overnight debauch, we went about the little village to do
some necessary shopping and arrange for our journey
The town was small, but neat and attractive.
to Coban.
clear
it fell
both
An
old
it
in
is
done
Spaniard was
women were
to the
still
dence, and
all
the titles
to, as
well
The
Francisco, my
marked that our lawless neglect of
Izabal was overlooked, and we were given a full permit to
land our luggage. Once more we returned to the river, in
as those of Senor
impression was
Don
so
" Secretario."
GUATEMALA.
78
way we met
an
intelligent ladino
been to London)
and
who
assisted us in shopping
and
trees
[Psidium)
that our
new
we found
quite hard
salting
it,
however.
luggage.
to
carry our
first
the country.
By an
for three
it
six
arrobas without
district,
lbs.).
They
In
many
cases they
forehead.
whom
men
men to carry our luggage
cut down the number by half
the
with
to the authorities,
provided
La Tinta
four of these
to
Santiago
at the
but
end of the
stage.
79
which
There
is
no posada
in
breakfast at noon in a
Pansos
little
Weekly
"
getting permission
comandante being
tolerably,
drunk,^
at
two
of being again
mounted
o'clock,
I,
in
town, the
still
Frank and
The pleasure
left
Pansos.
was
was
so great that I
my
As
mount.
a slight addition
a while
by
the
wardrobe,
to his
we went on
used
to
and
bring
The
it
coffee
alone for
is
so
worn
from
the
beautiful vegetation,
the
forest.
and
as
luxuriant,
Many
we came
clear brooks
fine
crossed
our path,
us.
Two
piers of
;
masonry stand on
lies
on
strong attraction
this
and approached
l3y
ladders.
may add that soon after our arrival in Coban the Jefe politico
unworthy comandante, punishing him with various indignities.
dejiosed
;;
GUATEMALA.
80
side
to
it.
of the
wooded
to
is
man with
Pablo, a line-looking
His
little
home was
in
the midst of orange and coffee trees close on the road, and
only a light
We
house.
rail
to look
coffee
fine.
netting
two hammocks
all
roof.
meat
me
81
the
The bed
certainly
was unused
to
hammocks
and before
him
in
was room
there
if
to take
his
hammock was
still
large,
deserted.
We
were up at four
and as
it
was
grown
in
Don
the
little
bed.
all
coffee
we drank
day, in
spite
of
the predictions of
both
host
and
(jfuide.
very
trees
little
One
of
but their
Cacao-
Here we
GUATEMALA.
82
row
his
Under
at one
colt
kept putting
The school
low but
still
wide stream.
as I
wished for
since
left
my
now
a shal-
camera here,
Pansos
but
we
was no
interesting scenery
We
on the road.
many
clean, good-looking,
and
sewed on.
1
Owing
to the
embedded
and the long slim sticks that furnish fuel serve also as poker, shovel, and
There is no chimney, but the smoke and steam escape by the many
tongs.
On one stone tripod a comal for torcracks in the walls or by the windows.
tillas, on another an earthen pitcher of cofiee, and on another a stew-pan
(cazuela) of frijoles,
is
it
may
Answering
if
its purpose
an oven is
needed for bread, a stone and earthen dome built over such a table-like hearth
a capital one, not unlike those so common among the Canadians and in
makes
We
two very
withered
leaves
clinging
still
fine
hills,
palms,
stem
the
to
of
a hen-house built in
the
see,
inferior houses
with
83
limestone
comprised
the
table
and a bench
dinner surpassed
it,
a few
tortillas,
men
seen
We
how
was.
it
room while we
ate
and
tioned,
several
times
remonstrated
me
ill
condi-
with
cruel treatment
their
;
for
him
suffer.
But
tlie
food.
the
juicy
potato,
China.
GUATEMALA.
84
Here
let
me
which
and when
is
we
of fine
and then
call
esencia de cafe,
table.
It
The
roasted,
bottled.
and mix
it
It
slightest taste of
newspaper.
We
On
now we came
five,
rains of
and
a house-yard
in
was a
fine Eiq^liorbia
had no posada
hosjyedaje, kept
we found
a capital
casa de
to an invisible ladino.
of adobe,
but
the forerunner
of a host of black
whom we saw
both in sculpture
and painting as we advanced through this ancient domain of the Spanish missionaries.
Our senora had a
calentura,
the
others.
poor horse
manana
all
breakfast.
get no
but for
but
85
up,
An
all
(to-morrow),
that word
so hateful to
an active
here.
in,
party of
women
and washing
in
across a
young
handed
me
give
my
skill
and without
hesitation, although
wanted
my
its
beauty.
How
camera
Stuck in the
muddy
We
all
of the slough to
and at
last
came
to
the church, a
we had
several
more
pot-
consid-
GUATEMALA.
86
unaccustomed
eyes,
most horrible
floor.
called
it
by one
of the
saints
not that one whose churches in western Europe are usually perched
Le Puy
France,
in
Only one
etc.
man
Michael's
St.
in the
road.
Mount
Cornwall,
in
little
way we were
in that delightful
what
is
the
doors.
Boston boy
coifee
at
estate in
dinner and
Cer-
tortillas tostadas.
tainly
candle and
waked us
up.
We
had
night before, and so did not disturb the family, but completed our toilet on the doorstep, as
was
so
we saw
to the sad-
only
feel
it.
By
we
could
;
but
by
we were
87
We
in passing.
As
the gray
cold,
Fire-flies
enough to
was
quite early
entered the
little
the preparations for our meal were going on, Frank and I
tied
with a
images
by.
and around
all
Our hostess
for always it was
the senora who managed the hospitalities and took the
pay therefor
gave us rolls and fried plantains with our
good coffee, and the table and bench were of some choice
wood, darker and harder than mahogany. Fine roses
blossomed in the yard (it was November), and cottondyeing and weaving, the principal industries of the town,
were carried on in nearly every house. Lime-burning and
tile-making also employ a goodly number of the people.
flavor of mild decay.
As we rode
we
passed
some twenty
many clumps
feet high,
GUATEMALA.
88
Crimson
constant care
but
before noon, as I
for
all
this
my
captured a
All the
of the
mules so
path,
we
passed,
seem so
feeble,
some
after
me and
horses here
loose.
the
for
down
horse broke
and many
thought of cap-
so
we had
but
walk
half
style
to
on,
at
half-past
thirteen
The barometer
o'clock.
one
this
season.
The town,
we had
full of fruit-trees
some
of
;
the
yet seen,
and vegetables.
quite too
muddy
for foot-travel,
and were
told that
many
the
first
here
there
are
89
three
harvestings in Decem-
and third
ond
Roses were
large.
is
even finer
mahu
gave
me
kind
much
than at Ta-
and a
fashioned
little
a bunch
girl
of
a
Roof Tile.
Most
cabbage-rose.
the
of
inhabitants
are
The fa9ade
of the church
statues of saints,
We
is
men
is
elaborately carved.
tell
one wore
sp.) for
a medio.
we
There
the
rather tender
skin
made, much
contains
From
When
quite ripe,
thin cider.
As we rode out
town we saw that the suburban gardens were much overrun by squash and bean vines.
Maiz stood fifteen feet high far up on the hills we saw
of
cornfields {milpas),
having
steep
hillside.
GUATEMALA.
90
fine red
we were
or " school
calling
it,
for
was placed
ninnies," as
at our disposal
did not
was
and
felt,
as
we afterwards
common
jarred
it
my
bed as though
in the dark.
it
This shock
we saw no
evidence of severe
ones.
five,
After perform-
we
it
we
Coban.
still
left
by the
last
ride to
city,
surrounded
91
and some
is
very
fine.
flood,
of
raising coffee-plants
Crossing a
good bridge, we
came up a paved
street, and soon
after ten o'clock
rode into the Hotel
Aleman, where we
and
pillow-cases,
we had
seen since we left
Livingston and we
were not now comthe
first
In
Hotel Aleman.
frijoles necjras,
wheaten
and good
coffee.
GUATEMALA.
92
As
this
first
house of solid
with red
white with
Windows were
tile.
and roofed
r:xj
Directly in
APOSENTO
ci
APOSENTO
CORREDOR
r><i
APOSENTO
S A L A
Plan of the
front
was a
Hotel Aleman.
and
on the
left
when
flowers in baskets
needed.
Birds
hung
93
in cages,
and
women who
We
walked up a paved
street
an eighth of a mile to
our
left
The Cabildo
brow
of the hill
opposite.
of the
of
palace on the
Coban.
new
once a
college of priests,
of the Plaza
was paved
fine
We
bought twenty-
medio, and as
many
same
price.
Deli-
GUATEMALA.
94
cate straw hats,
and
a medio
woven
cotton
soap,
in
two
colors,
napkins
were three
(servilletas)
of
reals
native
mozo de cargo
carries,
one
real.
There was a
and blankets.
Interior of the
Church
at
Coban.
timber posts, square, with a slight chamfer, with pillowblock capitals and stucco bases; an uneven tiled floor;
and
altars
side
poor design,
of
imitate marble.
On
of Calvary,
sometimes painted to
95
the
cruci-
man
merit.
We
called
Molina,
who
politico,
Don
Luis
no English,
my
and
in
in a skirt of indigo-
blue
cotton,
generally
is
carefully
red Ixmdages
in
reaching near-
(listones)
ly to the ground.
stature
natured.
eral of
and
and abundant
black hair
bound
is
Pattern of Cloth.
Their
below medium
The blue
cloth
woven
is
dyed
vats
of
GUATEMALA.
96
the
length of a dress-pattern.
The
on dark.
page, the
common
design
is
selvage,
cloth
three
is
easily
broken
otherwise the
inches.
and
obliging,
The
ter
soil
here
is
Coffee-trees,
well-
were in every
berries,
Many
iron grills.
of the streets
As
and culverts provided to remove the rain-water.
there is no aqueduct, water is brought from springs or
caught from the roofs during the frequent rains.
were told
it
still
views in
We
all
directions.
otherwise fine
eral
market was
rest
travel),
we turned our
steps thither in
(Pha-
of a quetzal
This
7nocino).
so beautiful that
it
was
skin
Indios
from
the
and other
in
by the
mountains of Alta
Verapaz.
it
never survives
when taken
in earliest
life.
plumes.
dios
At present the
In-
mountains
in considerable
num-
depending on
plain,
of
As
the female
is
very
tail
Quetzal.
97
GUATEMALA.
98
serves the species.
tail-feathers of
the male are of a superb peacock-green, changing to indigo, the inner breast scarlet,
We
like the
penance.
make,
in
way up made
who used
those steps,
The chapel
Some
grave-
diggers were
national
airs,
and as the
fell asleep,
We
all
men
roll-call
Sunday
in the
to
fifes calling
inspection.
Plaza
and
of
Soldiers
much
as
A few men
99
stood or knelt,
ders.
us an opportunity to
teresting
sit
in-
scene
before us while
we
to
listened
mostly
ing
of
Germans), which
occupied benches
in the midst of
the nave.
away
Far
in the loft,
drum and
and
fife,
still far-
The
of
sacrament
the
Indio of Coban.
commu-
apparently
women remained
All
tiled floor.
in
lounging
GUATEMALA.
100
through
In the afternoon
it.
we needed
found no one
else
the mozos
We
information, and
little
Luis
all
onward.
Don
so
we
we
decided to send
the
vesper
service.
The
spacious
all
edifice
and
we
was dimly
pillars,
and men
choir of
floor.
entered,
officiating priest
to the altar.
(organ, violin,
sive,
of their instruments.
of hides
was
emn
sitting,
of incense
and
WESTWARD TO COBAN.
101
respecta])ility,
night.
of a religion held
gone by
now
should
much
be cared so
little
for,
Monday was
Of these we agreed to
$150
but
found they
all
all
sore backs,
we
them
at our hotel
home.
much
of
liis
evidently
own knowledge
pupils.
the reciting in
t)f
c[uestions,
quite
as that
which were
monopoly,
yielding a
distiller at
very considerable
j)er
month
revenue.-^
which he pays
GUATEMALA.
102
minimum
all
number
retailers
store,
where
and
is
it
tested at 50
The
who
and the
paying twenty-five
The unfortunates
bought a mare
yegua colorada
and
must be in Spanish,
we, with the help of the postmaster, composed the following simple affair on stamped paper
as all bills of sale
receipts
Saben
_^ pesas en efectivo.
En
constancia firmo yo
el
A-eudidor.
Cuartillo of
CHAPTER
IV.
BY
these,
in
enabled
shod,
capital
mozo de
our mare,
addition
to
us to
leave
cargo,
who
who was
little
all
being well
carried
my photographic outfit.
wild at
first,
away
and
Coban accompanied by a
mare,
for three
we
days,
After
started early in
which was
my
constant companion
but after
was
indicated an elevation of
forty-four hundred
consulted,
we were
we
As
far as Santa
Cruz
us, car-
now
No
spirits
And
GUATEMALA.
104
half.
This
tants,
is
Laguna
little
surrounded bj
is
hills of
great
beauty
but the
As
there
is
room assigned us
in
dante conducted
We
us.
whom
found
that
Thursday and
Sunday
clock chimed the quarters, that there were unworked
mines of silver and lead close at hand, and that the
maguey grew abundantly there. We also watched the
process by which the
washed
in the
rotted
we saw
spun into
The
but
priests'
kitchen was
roofless
tact,
in-
the
largest
being
tiles,
cut
the smaller
from
Besides
leys
in
still
lingered.
By
the
we
and leaves
in its reach.
By
eleven o'clock
;
;,
now
Juan Prado.
vated, and
one of the
105
an old schoolmate of
in the cliarge of
culti-
stand-
The
was simply a
mill
the
vertical
mill
with no
kettle,
his,
clarifier
fair quality;
twenty-inch iron
but
roll-
and the
inspissated syrup
was
run into wooden moulds and cooled into very dark hemiblocks {panela),
spherical
demand among
Seiior
the Indios.
us
fore
from
set be-
and sugar,
rice
a favorite drink
of
not
the
warm
made
liquid
The buildings
mozos.
at the
In this building
machines
after
coffee-berry in
rude
this
We
men were
to dry.
we
it
was
away
we were
con-
To
entertain us, in
GUATEMALA.
106
just grazed
fragments of
decayed,
ment
fine
the
lower third of a
most
mound which
the
human
much
bones
Some
human.
distinctly
Museo Nacional
in
Guatemala
City.
We
"
cup
when we
warm milk
as a " stirrup-
morn-
and soon
after six
when thoroughly
cooling
hastened by water.
is
Men were
for a
new
log, to
at this elevation.
mortise
is
below us on our
We
passed a
left,
and
after
twenty-two hundred
feet, so steep
that
we were
obliged
of the Chixoy,
lead
mined
rock
shelf,
107
bank.
over
its
hundred
feet
rocky bed.
advantage
by one we sat
for one
in a sling
hung from
the
down
and
the
after sliding
cliff,
slid
back at
From
this structure
shore,
we descended
Dizzy as
GUATEMALA.
108
our
own passage
was,
it
was
By
enough compared to
safe
swam all
swam
safely.
we
our mules
splendidly
Frank went
bridge,
and
tortillas,
butterflies
latter
Beautiful
colfee.
strewed along
banks
the
fine
fig
we found the
valley, until we were
way
led
On
compact
aloes,
Among
these
the sod
Under the
of
pine-trees
and here
at the
head
of
we found
we came
mozos de cargo.
After
many
turns
of
Chicaman, just
is
on
tlie
hills,
fall.
This hamlet
We
windmg.
any church
and
little
narrow and
house, where
we
tortillas
This
Esquipulas."
ers,
found a picturesque
hammocks
slung our
and
here
valley,
109
shrine
and here
fruit,
it
is
among the
from
in houses far
usual
was embowered
in leaves, flow-
We
solan um.
of
fruit
were
nearly four thousand feet above the sea, and the night
was
cool,
a comfortable ending
to a
below
us,
we were on our
Santa Cruz,
now.
village
climbmg a
had photographed
its pivot,
obtained
about
"
No hay
"
fine oranges
but
house with his " Buenos
to the
(there
are
none).
In this case
it
we wanted
we might
We tried
had
little
half
We
for a
filled
a pillow-
GUATEMALA.
110
tle,
map gave no
we kept on almost a
left
which puzzled us a
indication of
its
existence.
lit-
But
which proved
to be the right
It
by the birds
them
my
trees,
was most
in the forests of
watching
but with
all
The
The common
them
had "needles
a more
fra-
We
fre-
we
" fifteen
artificial
At ten
o'clock
little village
who
followed us wherever
we went, and
at last were
until
visible,
we turned a low
ridge,
in
The church,
doubtless
Ill
We
all sides
We felt so provoked
we never
learned) that
we did not
saw
name
artificial
ravine.
who weave
numerous
all
and
it
is
the
attest
Quiche
rule.
a village
wanted a photograph
room in a confiscated monastery or church buildWe had a mahogany bench fifteen feet long and
a good
ing.
and
We
had our own candles and coffee but no other food was
to be had except some ears of green corn which we had
;
picked by the
way
which we were
scorched
them by
GUATEMALA.
112
fires in
Although the
the Plaza.
tiles.
tion in
its
of fragrant
it
air,
had none.
Acres
while Bouvardias
dawn our
ruined predecessor at
its
the
roofless
walls of
hestias
which
is
its side.
ancient
much
smaller than
In Central America
churches usually,
not
if
nans
their work.
maids
among
of the genuine
to the altar.
we
fee,
On
side.
seen,
mit of
this
pass
violets.
we had yet
The sum-
feet,
and
113
and a
region
different
The
climate.
far
we had
no sign
left
the
rainy season.
forest-clad
was
transition
human
of
habitation.
like
public road.
so
we thought,
''
century
and then we
plants "
but
flower
Foiled in
its
hillside
attempt to flower by
its
leaves.
pass, although
occurred.
we were
Oaks
of
were in blossom.
side, a
sad
gave us at
species
travesty of the
least a
sometimes
two
laurels
Dak Bungalows
of
India,
coffee.
whence
looked
pines
at
an elevation
down upon
and oaks
of six
Among
The
the
little
GUATEMALA.
114
right
its
bank
bed
we had
a token that
fill
the
first
we had
seen,
left
lines,
all
We
us.
these and so
it
in this
we could trust to
away but the vivid
that
all
much more
the ivory
colors in
and
river,
must enjoy
now by
ourselves.
huge cylindrical
trees
inferior.
Jocote-
fruit decidedly
On
Women
species.
were bathing
six
to bathe in public.
piers
rail
of
the
any kind,
laid be-
although
not hesitate,
we
of course crossed
As our
bestias did
with them.
short
we were
crossing
115
had
fallen
had been
piers
cliff
No doubt
repeated.
again
built
new
had been
down
cliff
to
"We went up
comandante, assigned
Estada, the
cabildo,
us
quarters
in
the
find us a boarding-place.
Here we did
justice
full
flavored chocolate
whipped
the
seiiora's
cinnamon-
now
to
to a froth.
much more
extensive edifice
place.
We
of
1773
bell
;
all
The
Ceiba-tree
chief
ornament
{Eriodendron)
tionary antiquity.
of
of the Plaza
immense
was an ancient
and tradithe Plaza was
size
of
for
their
graves.
GUATEMALA.
116
had grown up
its
ancient wall.
The
Roman
tiles
and the mortar was genharder than the terra-cotta. Frank sketched the
those in old
erally
bridge,
structures,
and we followed
became the
E-io
it
Bay
of
his laws to
the
Even
we became an
attraction to
and we slowly
way
the
Wooden
flute
and guitar
for us a
number
of Spanish airs.
In
all
rooms are
windows and
is
simply a room
door,
and separate
women.
We
towns we
passed through.
We
of the public
in
reading
to
the
one
register's
these
of
must confess
which,
marriage-records,
usual,
and
office,
IIT
page.
as
we
o'clock
five
we came
Not half a
Our
by earthquakes.
We
tiles
crossed
paint.
certainly
at some
came upon a good level
path extending along the river side for a mile and then
by a sudden turn we climbed out of the valley up a steep
hill of decomposing rock, coming to a grassy plain on the
There we met Indios loaded with pottery,
top.
some
with huge cdntaras of red clay so large that two made a
and
load
good workmanship.^
whitish,
and not
6,250 feet
1
The
inviting.
it
we found a
it
supplies
not only water-cisterns, flour-barrels, ovens, stoves, wash-tubs, baths, coffeepots, stew-pans, but dishes, lamps, floors, roofs,
of white clay
The
is
tinajas (water-jars)
or
caziiclas,
flat
Some made
and aqueducts.
fire
proof.
wall built of pots not unlike a Yankee bean-pot in shape, the niouths opening
into the house being " pigeon-holes " for the human inhabitants
while those
;
opening out of doors were the nesting-places of pigeons and hens. The rooftiles are not in great variety, usually semicylindrical or conical, and seldom orna-
mented
suspended in a current of
air
thick.
cool.
GUATEMALA.
118
and some
of the
mozos we passed
we
after-
trees.
No
country.
of
mountainous
we
it
Corn was
in tassel
and where
we found
in milk.
plant,
maguey used
it
made.
as a hedge-
From
this
we saw
left
its little
The
and covered what
on every
seemed to be indurated
formed in
this
As we came
tufa.
Deep pools
of
side.
water were
hard substance.
at last, after a hard day's ride, into the un-
we found
all carefully
named,
Street,
interesting town,
as
it
the
way
to Mexico),
the streets
which
was
as useful as
it
would
way
to Philadelphia."
All
the inhabitants
seemed to be in the Plaza, listening to a band and watching some fair acrobats
on a horizontal
bar.
home and
let
us
in.
Tough meat,
we
frijoles,
could get
and the
vile
dogs
.JMMMmM.-
119
made up
in
sheets again,
we threw
When
in the washing-stones
Don Antonio
polite
and
Rivera,
obliging,
easier to converse
ban.
poli-
This Indio also served to show us what the Jefe evidently considered a very amusing garment,
his trousers,
mid
in
up
and the
is
prices given.
leng:ths.
Not
satisfied
with showiDs: us
all
is
sold in vara
GUATEMALA.
120
my
carry
walk
photographic
mozo
to
kit.
westward brought us to a
human
great disappointment.
It is
to like
sacrificial
altar of Tohil
Forty years ago the towers, faced with cut stone, the
altar,
some houses, and even the outer walls, were in good preservation but all these have since been torn down, and
the neatly cut stone removed to repair a miserable mud
church in the town. These blocks of travertine were
;
generally of uniform
size,
18x12x4
inches
and mingled
still
of
chunam of the
except where the modern vandals
it
in search of foundation-stones
now
much
still,
which
nearer
though
appeared.
dis-
upon
insisted
hills
find,
but
121
when we
he utterly
failed.
was built on a promontory surrounded, except at one narrow neck, by steep barrancas
several hundred feet deep and to the rivers at the bottom
The whole
fortress
there
ice-stone
was obtained.
likely, that
much
of the
It
pum-
up the mountain
slopes on
either side,
or
At
fire
was
But
and
this
famous
capital,
become so turbulent
full
In 1834 a commis-
he found
many
Even
traces
GUATEMALA.
122
One
human
may
S 1
1.
These
stejDs
were only
jfe.
Quiche Altar
of Tohil
(Sacrificatorio).
seventeen inches,
awkward
if
made
they were
as corpulent as the
We
agreeable notes.
inches
high,
supports
on cords
is
2^V:
^\-
now
it
123
The
drew a long
GUATEMALA.
124
cups,
three
sale
large size,
for a medio.
dried shrimps of
spits,
pink,
tery, ropes
leather
tin-ware,
pot-
and bags of
pita,
sugar-cane,
sandals,
six
In this town
thousand inhabitants
We
saw
caught in a
"^'"'*'
woman
game
she
hair.
little girl's
women engaged
waiian
but
Not
Quiche
so the
hand out
To
woman
for us
women came
for water.
The
men and
men always
slung them on
their backs.
ladles
make
bean that
Trujillo,
which
and durable.
is
as delicate as porcelain.
125
in the town, as
roof-tiles are
towns
as in
some
some
of the smaller
but,
some side-walks,
of the present
in front
closed
jackets,
in cold
the
and put on
so good-
badly dressed,
loose
trousers,
like a shirt,
and
Women
At home hammocks
Vegetation
is
The
Ustilago segetum) on
of our field-corn
Frank considered
it
is
and appearance
much
wiltmg
sweeter,
and
are
we saw
air,
Everywhere
and bunches
of
them
GUATEMALA.
126
The
inflicted
on their ancestors in
this
flags
it
was impossible
on
so I
full of
we
decided to
Ramon had
man worth
who
three of himself.
little
Ramon
all right.
as
we were anxious
to get
away,
dogs,
'
on the back
interior.
is
called kataure
Ramon
my
photographic apparatus,
the camera and box of plates being carefully wrapped in water-proof mate-
but also our cooking utensils and his own luggage. After he left us we
found so much trouble in hiring suitable carcastes that we purchased one for
rial,
fitted it
When
up with
pita cords,
mozo
to our
and from ten to fifteen minutes only were required to unpack, set up,
expose one or two plates, repack, and remount our animals. It may be interesting to state that in all this long journey, where plates were carried in this way,
not one was broken, nor was a piece of the apparatus damaged.
side,
127
We
wife,
senora of no
effect, I
from
him a ladron
called
ment
many
of the
this
his hiding-place.
we heard
we departed. The
until
The
but mule).
man
amuse-
the poor
it
shouted at
Jefe sent
the
o'clock
we
scraped the
The road
led
mud
of this
down immense
deposits of pumice
barrancas, where
feet.
we saw
feet thick.
Min-
crater
de
We
passed a
Lemoa on
the
little
map
all
is
to Santo
a neat, attractive
name
is
little
an ancient church.
Close at
hand
At
Tomas Chichicastenango.
streets, a
but
with ducks.
eruj)tion
the cabildo
we were
had no time
politely received,
an
to visit.
GUATEMALA.
128
of burden,
Jefe
The
horses and a
had telegraphed
to
would be ready.
The church,
town.
first
In this faith
strolled
about the
time
which seemed
same material
we
we saw
to be
gum
Mari-
golds were strewed all over the floor, and the odor
oppressive, even without the
and
incense
was
and innumerable
candles.
The
floored with
altar
An
some, indeed, reThere were many similar organs in the old churches,
but they were so securely fastened together that
to the lumber-rooms
I could not get at the internal mechanism without too much disturbance, and
No modern organs of
I concluded that the instruments were imported entire.
any size were seen outside of the metropolitan cathedrals and yet even a large
organ is very easy to transport. One little instrument that I tried was not in
1
moved
129
wood, and most primitive in design. All the worshipping Indios seemed very devout, chanting their prayers
in their native tongue to the bare wall or a door-post,
to us as we passed them,
although outside they generally bowed respectfully.
In a little shop at a street corner we found our
almuerzo (there
Our
was.
is
no posada)
it
hostess
among
who
her position,
diente,
walk
rumseller.
came
half-tipsy Indios
and soon
for a
in our
in,
of aguar-
drunken
sleep,
narrow
of the
My
way
little
and he came
him.
He was
to
and the
trees
readers,
who
how they
are
trick horse."
perhaps
it
bestias.
my
standing over
''
distance,
me
occurs to
me
that
it
With
would be
fair
less
strongly aspirate
are pronounced.
is
well understood as
;
tepee,
GUATEMALA.
130
we agreed that in
the darkness it was unwise to travel, and we looked
anxiously for a camping-place, although the muddy
every
desire
on to
get
to
Solola,
mistook
no
it
fireflies,
As we
could find
we walked on
we
who
told us
we had
lost
We
we found
comfortable lodgings in
We
life-size
Two
of his wife.
bedsteads of the
and we did
not.
we
and
slept.
How
cold that
at daybreak
on which
with
my
I
^^
trick horse."
For a while
all
went
well,
and
odd
it
I could
131
how
see perfectly
elder-trees
as,
view of the Lago de Atitlan and the volcano was disWe had surfeited, perhaps, on the glories of
appointing.
landscape, and had expected something finer, with an im-
we might
be,
we were
we had
miserable horses
and
as in duty bound, ^
we
We at
a room to serve
comandante,
ing
Here we
first
the
it.
meat
The
outside
was brown,
reddish, surrounding
Some
It is the
size.^
full of
people
to pass the
night to report to headquarters the name, where from and whither bound, so
that
we
could be tracked
all
office
in
is
known
in the
mammee
only one.
An
allied
GUATEMALA.
132
buying and
and
it
selling.
grain [tingo)
cials
is
is
This
one
or
also
hundred and
an important
fifty
pounds.
article of
among
six arrobas,
Fat-pine (ocote)
commerce
offi-
here, as
it
is
is
the
the Indios.
things.
human
hair,
figure
a drunken man.
color
of Christ,
On
falling
man
is
trying to catch
him with
a long vine.
The
133
he
and forced
As
fell,
grape-vine.
tal^let,
realistic crucifix,
drops,
to
a civilized being
much
thicker,
it
disgusting
make
and blood-
and
all
that
from the
side
On
blood of Christ.
Roman
life-size,
soldiers
mocking the
suffering Saviour
full
ent day.
caught
off his
feature
Frank
interprets differently,
head
is
flowing plume.
and brighter
With
all
what
call
a wig
is
flesh-color.
This last
of his lance.
was never
and even
if
made
important dispute.
Frank was
asking every one he met about
mules
and we had not found any when, late in the
busily
GUATEMALA.
134
afternoon,
He asked
the oft-repeated
asked him
Jefe,
Don
if
he spoke English.
M. Galero
J.
to
come
to the Jefaturia
in the evening.
the
we took
The
our leave.
home
find at
Pinks and
gladioli,
sunflower
and white
lily,
all
blos-
taste.
Our apartment
pletely fire-proof
and several
walls, roof,
of the floor-tiles
and
floor
were brick or
tile,
sembling the
was com-
fossil footprints in
much
re-
linaria,
primrose,
gladioli,
gilliflowers,
mignonette,
sunflower,
amaryllis,
adenanthera,
iris,
scabious, abutilon,
willow,
lialsams,
dahlia,
brugmansia,
spider-lily,
canna, hollyhock, eucalyptus, ragged-lady, roses (4), yellow sweet-clover, asparagus, Hydrangea hortensis, blue African lily, lupine, Boston-pink, woolpink,
broom.
cypress,
sedum,
agave,
chelidonium,
euphorbia
(long-leaved),
and
A low
Connecticut valley.
table,
single
135
wmdow,
room
the
It
and there
latter,
with
its
quiet,
m the
It does
ants
broke down
my hammock
temperature of a room.
noise,
as he
leaving
sympathy
me
sitting
in the
on the
floor.
He
continued his
almost forgotten.
Early next morning we were on our way, mounted better than we had been
for we left Frank's mare with
;
We
water-power.
was, for
it
several
eight long.
rots.
So
feet
wide by
many
little
we
GUATEMALA.
136
often wondered
up while the
if
toiling
had
to climb a stairway
and
mile,
and took us up
We
by the barometer.
it
but
it is
old,
and some
way
were
long,
This extended
just a
It is
of the
much
thousand feet
its
mozos attributed
The views
but we knew our journey was
for our
we
on edge
tiles
set
more than a
builders
it is
on
foot.
all
Indeed, I
side.
turquoise, gold
and
On
silver
glittered
of the rocks
The greens
sky as in the
usual.
on for years,
at the
bottom of the
enough
for seed,
was
common
but
potato of cultivation
[Solanum tuberosum).
Inclios
137
their ancestors
en todo tiempo,
senor.
Around us on the mountain-top were spruce-trees of immense size, four feet in diameter, and pines two feet larger
and beneath these giants of the
As black
shades lighter.
cloth
is
many
Indios,
they cultivate the black sheep rather than pay the dyer.
Cactus on pine-trees, crimson sage, and a minute violet
not an inch high, were novelties by the roadside.
Not a
We
noon we came
to the
brow
On our
left
a waterfall dashed
we had
roads and
Far
brown.
in the distance
smoke
many
miles.
My
mozo was
close at hand,
and
my
box
We
little
found
lodffina: at
in
in ten
;
after
Our
GUATEMALA.
138
we had no
Usually
stand.
As we had a
at once to present
next
it,
We
and
Indio, stupid
went
fat,
neat courtyard
David Carney,
who
could say
little
dumpy
little
else
Senor."
in the morning.
evidently in use
fine piano,
air of
comfort
the lord.
thermometer told
cold,
feet.
and
in the
morning at seven
forty-five degrees,
As
usual,
we went
seen, but
ever.
In this courtyard
dian
women
veils
women
conducting some
we found a troop
mummery which
of great size.
Some
of In-
required
of the poor
which were perilously near to setting their neighAfter various marches and counterclothes on fire.
candles,
bors'
Of
all
'
1^1
Pf,
still,
we found
as
139
to our cost.
much
sun-dial in
men
as other
originally,
doubtless
stucco,
damp
are,
Made
of Massachusetts.
station.
They
dle.
We
look.
way
by one
of these
at work,
who
and
invited us to enter.
its
work exceedingly
well,
if
slowly.
while
We
most ancient
woven
we were
called
couples,
pattern,
in these highlands.
and he repeated
so
we
left
him
mules for
for a while
and
GUATEMALA.
140
strolled about
He
at work.
used both white and dark clay, and his wheel and kiln
had not
arrived,
At two
us.
the mules
Frank
liar.
Another
for us.
failure
one
mozo came
baggage
wanted a dollar
We
to Quezaltenango.
and he went
diablo,
him
told
and
cool, like
steep
to carry our
go to the
to
of the
New England
At
on the lowlands.
and
authorities,
then a
to
hotel,
fit
first
we
fine carriage-
feet wdde.
Except the
we came
to Salcaja
was
level,
in bud.
we had
a fine view of
wounded, and
finally
Though conquered
Alvarado now.
but above
it
pale mist
Cristobal
cone
two
pleasantly situated
We
towns.
at
San Luis
we watched
the
girl (the
lic)
shop,
women
Beggars came
cord.
little
passed,
We
or-
and as we waited
them mozos,
customers, among
and
was
141
also,
we had
idiot
pers,
walked
we were
having
in Quezaltenango,
and a
half,
excluding
Santa Maria
and
longed
l3lack-
city
(the
when
attractive
who were
piling
many
This
tage.
is
and
cloth-merchants exhib-
in
stone
woven here
the neighborhood from cotton and wool.
The
generally used
in
building
is
double,
is
fa^brics
are
vol-
The
a light-brown lava.
of
and
San
its
GUATEMALA.
142
space
is
pond
in
The other
market-place
here
new
the
are
is
buildings
for
the
Government.
saw a
To
my
first
and knocked
glance
it
which
sign, of
all
my
fidiis
Achates
The church
of
facade ornate,
octaves,
three
bells,
and
so
was simply
we
did not
The
bound
to the
on yokes.
paintings
;
it
Ladies,"
it.
hung seven
Young
it.
SENORITAS
N^^E
made a
it more
COLEGIO
in
as
In the
not
relics,
but the
membra
It
We
had often
"
"
property-rooms
called
women
we found boxes
of
143
^^?*iiiii>ii
|:il'i
Church
in
his
Sunday
ankles to
1
It
strap
at
Quezaltenango.
him on
to
the mule on
pitiful
Palm
to see the
GUATEMALA.
144
We
went
dormitories
the
for
preparation
lanterns were
an expected
for
visit
the
of
In
here.
President,
cities.
Then,
too,
they were
sidewalks,
in
some
places,
is
The houses
and usually had the window and door-
were well
jambs
built,
of sculptured
stone.
and fountains
and
in blossom,
Cienega
is
where an
in
many
courtyards.
picturesque
artist
Peach-trees
has
many
washing-place,
a chance for
were
In the suburb
or
lavadero,
sketching the
Indias.
We
of
but
it
to give
list of
der,
daisy, wall-flower,
flax,
and Canterbury-bells.
bachelor's-buttons,
thousand inhabitants
it
is
Its port is
Manuel Lisandro
Champerico, from
Barillas.
145
interior
Abundant water-supply,
cluding a night-school
schools of various
for artisans,
city.
grades,
in-
good hospital,
springs
of
some
of
the
GUATEMALA.
14G
attractions of
of
Los Altos.
We
had
letters to
Lisandro Barillas
to
add to
his
we thought
it
best not
On
the
and
so satisfactory
popular vote.
quite cold
and misty
but
we pho-
all
147
who lowered
he could to help
us.
curtains,
When we
to
have
his ritrato.
He
so I bade
him
mozo
if
to the hotel,
and that
him a
Honest soul
all this
and on
his
way he
I sent
silver dollars
should charge
!
he agreed to
them the
colleagues.
result
months
after,
and in
In
We
CHAPTER
V.
/^UR
^-^
little
fellow
miles,
for
As we reached
the
until, after
whom
there were
at the city
We
PACIFIC.
many on
all
the road
hats, as
is
himself.
the last
looked
if
the mozos
back
in salutation.
eight o'clock
but
we had no
The President
of
thirty riders
The
All
the Indios kept within doors, and evidently were not anx-
was there
fire
and we
first
his
mules
Solola,
desire,
tele-
to send
city,
and
So we seemed to be
I resolved to apply at
Guatemala
Not expecting
City, I
alternative,
to
In the
J.
the
main
altar,
149
an appointment
PACIFIC.
we
mean time we
Rufino Barrios.
God and
Christ kneel-
dove hovered.
God had
a white beard
we
of disgust
was
GUATEMALA.
150
stronger than
when
stood
with
its
gory
and necklace
lips
bleedmg human
of
heads.
my
me
in the sola
case, while
Frank looked
very politely
I stated
Jefe.
window.
in at the
Senor
He
summoned
the stupid
little
as
we
requested.
" Then
us his
it
own mule
No hay "
(there
it
" said
President
to let
ter, I
him why he
and told
furnished us in
me
"
at once
If I
bet-
At
last
he got us
del Presidente.
arrangement, and
we
started
A mozo was
him
we
included in this
at noon,
we
following
We
shook
off
PACIFIC.
151
to leave Totonicapan,
feet,
where we
my
with
revolver in driving
After the
them from my
first
we
;
but with
all
we
our
Luckily
before dark.
with us
door.
we overtook two
ladinos,
who
rode
we had some
room we made a
At
in the deserted
monastery, where
excellent coffee.
middle of the
fire
In the
we had gathered in the mountain in preparation for camping out, thus taking off the chill which is very decided in
these high altitudes
and the
We
were up at
and although
for Solola.
pile of
five
was
it
still
and much
like rice-
larger.
and they
all
grew,
some
to a height of seven-
them
of
three
to ripen.
In the pale
smoking.
dawn we saw
We
and
ground
fastest ride
we had
in Guatemala.
We
took no time
GUATEMALA.
152
down
we
Lago de Atitlan
by a path about twelve hundred feet in perpendicular
It was a league and a half from, town to shore.
descent.
climbed
After almuerzo
We
cold of the
town above
and
cliffs,
were yet
us, flourished
in legend
across
and
volume pour
of considerable
down
We
history.
Walled on
here.
Ten miles
fruits that
fertile valleys
Streams
there.
and other
to the
into
it
the high
cliffs.
of Atitlan,
famed
ous places seemingly below the rest of the world, for w^e
could see the water
valley
but no
human
eye sees the outlet, nor are the waters, as in the valley of
the
Dead
The
was an ancient
it
is
up a
valley.
is
seasons.
all
In the
much
Somma
as
Vesuvius has
evi-
is
crater, in the
surface
many
cavities,
dammed
and possibly
many
minded
We
were
frost-bitten
and swollen.
who venture
The water
in
w^as
probably
of carbonic acid, as
;;
It
PACIFIC.
we
153
cool,
new
ex-
care
little
is
steel,
would be
and we
of great geological
Water-fowl
good survey of
were
this
lake
and formation
in a later
chapter.
We
should
much have
us.
lines
lift
the
Solola
hill to
until six
We
;
fell
started
and were
asleep, in
bedroom.
The decencies
of life are
as elsewhere in Guatemala,
was the
neglected here,
veranda-rail, over
poured a calabash of
much
GUATEMALA.
154
some idea
indeed,
if
it
where they
exist in
of the
any form,
who
act
condition.
'y\
Sketch
Map
of the
Lago de
'
ikSSfW^'/^y^'
Atitlan.
However, he called
in
out the distant Fuego, Agua, and Pacaya, and the nearer
Atitlan,
Clara.
PACIFIC.
155
good
and
citizens
christianos.
his mule,
alcalde, as his
sore back
two mozos
weight by the
twenty-five cents
increased in
cloths
Quezaltenango
started.
Frank's
Frank
when he
but
on her hind-legs
rose
we had purchased
mare was a
little
much
as
to
We
character.
we
She took
and proposed
in
boxing-match.
he had no
fists to
match
proceeding to
and
insert-
half
rode
down a very
Panajachel,
from
Solola.
fields
on the
saw elsewhere
in the republic.
by the wayside.
Panajachel
is
the garden of
GUATEMALA.
156
Solola
has,
it
had
glad, however,
to travel slowly,
loitering, as the
Semetabaj,
of
repaired,
and we
slow climb
and
Then came a
town
which showed us as
with a remarkably
never designed a
dome
fine
finer.
San Andres
to
hundred inhabitants,
of seventeen
its
long,
On
we
Wren
lingered
photograph the
black giants
last
once
view
of the
so terrible,
now
so solemnly
grand
human
was visible as we
looked our last on the beautiful lago and turned to a road
quite unlike any we had travelled before.
lake.
Not a
And now
boat, not a
being,
entr'acte.
immense wrinkles
Chichicastenango to Solola
to ride.
and, strangely
To-day we were
we had
light faded
of the
and we
many
darker.
still
leagues
mozos de cargo
dazzled us and
from
experience,
crossing the
new
made the
came at
We
last to a plain.
made when we
lost
157
to travel
the road
for every
in the
ride
pacific
it
we were about
to be the
to
head of an im-
way
its
into
the
The walls
this
over
plain
our path.
and
of a dozen intersecting
to
entrap the
last,
"We had no
little
difficulty in finding
who
fortunately,
all in
bed
were
In
for Santiago,
Road
and we at
was
the
in
traveller.
a house
Washout
unwary
fell
to bear
on Frank,
it.
who,
The inhabitants
man
to direct us,
We
eight.
slept long,
until
We
Frank
GUATEMALA.
158
While our
be found in a posacla.
went
rated
(?)
was a wedding,
chancel-rail
the
public
fountain,
Inside,
The
officiating priest
As we rode out
seemed to be an Irishman.
passed
were feeding we
to the church,
there
bestias
to
of town we
which excellent water is
ancient aqueduct.
a column
more or
less
ornamented
falling
From
column.
women
this
common
of the
drink and
basin horses
The Indios place their water- jars on the edge of the large
basin and conduct the water by a bambu j)ole just long
enough to reach from the spout to the jar.
At
eleven o'clock
we reached
we had
noticed a long
cliff
some ten
The evening
feet high,
evidently
we saw
before
and here
town was
built.
On
saw
fine
in diameter.
interest us,
We
were
served
as
PACIFIC.
milestones
159
on our way.
gration.
from
del
Commercio
to the Hotel
Department
of Sacatepequez.
to the Plaza,
and from
both the
we went
Directly before' us
GUATEMALA.
160
left
eighty,
which looked
hestias
saddled,
as
it is said,
We
recently demolished.
if
had our
about a league.
widow
first),
and
de-
of the Conquistador, in
The town
After
watching a
man make
is
roquetas
we
(rockets),-^
we had some
we
diffi-
In the afternoon we strolled among the ruins of Antigua, which are very fascinating.
of solid
roofs,
some
of vegetation,
still
entire,
The outlay
must have been enormous for material and transportation (many of the tiles
being Spanish), although the actual labor was by unpaid
Phytolacca was common.
ing
all
these
elaborate churches
slaves.
We
motlier
The
cases
of these
upon the
was increased,
rockets were
As they were
in a
church
tunnels
of
fired in daylight,
each
PACIFIC.
161
etc.
With
Ruined Church
hither
we poked
in
Antigua.
but
we
GUATEMALA.
162
we
with a
tion
it.
still
was occupied by
these we saw some finely carved
In one of
a blacksmith.
wooden
panels.
been planted.
The roads
or public promenade,
is
attractive.
done in a most
in
Antigua of considerable
the carving
of cane-heads,
artistic
the manufacture of
which
Normandy
or effigies, mostly of
dolls,
and
cloth,
These
little figures
have
seldom
more than
inches high
five
a
in
Antigua we found
much
dolls, or
Solola
but
Especially
is
it
customary in
many
of the
tries to pro-
Germany
a Christmas-
vide a Bethlehem,
tree
is
arranged
Men from
made
as in
in the
of cloth.
much
artistic
way,
all
from
bits
my
bought
first
163
Guatemaltecan money
dollars in
PACIFIC.
sixty-seven cents.
for a
hundred
and then
the hotel
We
dollars.
felt at leisure to
was a
where chicha
cldcheria, or place
Near
city.
sold.
is
This drink
beverage
is
arms
in the
ter greeted
of
Owing
the outcries.
and laugh-
yells
to indulgence in this
best
we
comandante there
mozo
me
for another.
direct to
We
Guatemala
when
City
whom
he arrived safely.
service.
the
elaborately
in
wrought doors
of the
of
progress,
we
much
to see,
the
church.
GUATEMALA.
1G4
some
of the
but
Some
we
haughtily declined to go
uniform
of the slaves in
of the
1541
in,
off
our spurs
be
to
so
and
or even dismount,
or-
He
letter.
often
The
crossing
fine
water.
give issue to
Gases have
colors,
scoriae
on the
extensively
like
than lava.
whole
summit,
of
the lavas.
As
and
full
of
small stones.
masses of
We
Ocean.
At seven we rode
horrid
noise,
drums,
into Escuintla
1)ut
rockets,
all
of the Pacific
We
of railroads
again
and
The
round
trip
was
;;
We
three dollars.
only
had a second-class
first-class carriage
At the
PACIFIC.
reserved
is
165
carriage, as the
the
for
President.
above sea-level
is
is
and
The remainintr
rather steep.
There were
rate of speed.
fine
lagoons,
did
however, see
crossed
several
shallow
evidence
of
much
ill-health
The
sea,
As we
stations.
a respectable
fine
a high
not,
among
line
safe.
not
is
certainly not
two hours,
in
beyond
station
in
alongside.
We
Antigua, and
for
some
passed on
rolled
it
Pacific the
shores or on
my
its islands.
life
have been
To-day
its
waves
few yards
we had a
GUATEMALA.
166
Hawaiian Islands
Antilles or the
but
it is
claimed that
The young
sharks however have no such scruples and we kicked
several of the little fellows out of our way.
The ironwork was thickly covered with barnacles and other crustaceans, and it took considerable skill to avoid being
they dare not venture between the
piles.
;
dashed against
On
this.
spent
much
train.
was a
cool sea-breeze,
was
pier
built here in
1868
was
are of
The end
provided
like
of the
wharf
three
steam
most
and stout
twenty-five
small
is
vessels
tons,
are provided
Even with
pier.
the
task
is
boat
to
the
iron
always
human
cage used
laid
ling of freight,
much
San Francisco.
in
of
easy,
some
and
rough weather
to
not
to bring cargo
lighters
to hoist the
been
As San Jose
hoisting-engines.
lighters
many
The
with auger-
fitted
of
an open roadstead,
there,
it,
and hollow,
iron
built in a
cast
points,
is,
and we
of
1880, the
thus
which
and sugar,
Since the
tracks
is
facilitating the
have
hand-
coffee,
at
anchor,
As we
sat in
felt
fro:m
quezaltexaxgo to
tpie pacific.
we had made
it,
was
167
far pleas-
old.
We
raging Pacific
tion,
to the days
when
humming with
the busy
My
Why
had the
place
become
down
to me.
cliff,
so changed
there,
no
answer
for this
my own
question.
rise
was trying to
would
of eight feet
was nothing except the steep slope of the beach to indicate any change of level.
Had I been able to see any
rocks within the limit of two miles, I should have left the
cool pier and trudged through the hot black sand to ask
them. Frank's more practical mind was working in
another direction and he took up the conversation with
;
change
this
Then we
port as well
mercial country
GUATEMALA.
168
we had been
that
inseparable
Here
the
is
companion
we
RAILROADS
FOK
GUATEMALA
l*ro}>osed
Built
we were
and
as
the
problem unhesitatingly.
to
we
we
The
road,
tackled
decided,
Chocon River on
a single span, then over the smaller Rio Cienega and along
the north shore of the
Lago de
Perall,
of
would
of Guatemala.
It
169
PACIFIC.
would then be
Teleman,
and
all
train.
such as
of the Cienega
Alta Verapaz be
More than
through
first
oranges
mahogany
the
more
profitable to raise
this,
the road
Before us on the
that
land
that produces the royal chocolate which outside barbarians never get, but
ly
if
Ocos.
San
At
and
now have no
The roads
Livingston.
Trujillo
by water.
outlet save
in
will extend
between
projected lines
problems.
presents
The
and
any very
financial question
hundred and
Honduras
Not one
roads,
difficult
is
of
these
engineering
both
coast
of simple construction,
few years
that
is,
until
way
into
that,
GUATEMALA.
170
We
when
had not
it
was time
for ahuuerzo
railways
and we went
to
little
the
the
num-
watch.
to open
my
CHAPTER
VI.
GUATEMALA
CITY.
half,
at five o'clock.
to
strolled
building,
altar
inside in
all
made
December
8,
the
curtain,
One
Immaculate Conception.
of
of the
doll, repre-
with silver
and on twisting
out,
The
priest
examine the
if
feet
was a
delight of
Queen
us to
Heaven," and
As we returned
met a
women.
to
religious
In a small plaza
with
and
flowers
spectable rank,
in horrible
These
cooked, but
especially
we
apples
make an
long
strings
of
(of re-
masks representing
little
a sweet pickle.
fruits,
manzanillas}
of
we
devotees.
dignity wished
we heard
was thrust
the Indian
the hotel
culehra gixmde
intense
the
to
Beneath her
stars.
about
excellent
devils
and animals.
duke
the senoras
are
know how
tasteless
to use
them
unfor
GUATEMALA.
172
Escuintla
and
its
is
some
The
commerce and
citizens,
in
five
is
meet
agriculture.
especially to the
Ocos
there.
places,
we
bath-house
we
passed, the
men bathing
At
tank came
in the
women who were washing clothes in the brook outAs these men were wholly naked, I wished to phoside.
the
but
when they
retired within
and shut
the door.
Our own bath, an open pool some fifty by a hunfeet, was of a depth increasing from three to eight
feet.
A high brick wall bounded one side, and we were
A shed in
told that beyond this was a bath for women.
which
to dry
tile
platform
on
which to undress, and a
but the water was cool
one's self, was all the apparatus
and of a wonderful clearness, and we prolonged our
swim. The fee was only a medio (five cents). In the
season, which extends from December to March, doubtbut we had the pool
less the crowd is disagreeable
dred
entirely to ourselves.
After almuerzo
dusty road
from the
it
port.
we
and a weary,
GUATEMALA
CITY.
173
We
Fortunately
we
We
of cattle
and
of the lowlands,
shaken and dusty, and with the look one might fancy
a soul in purgatory would assume,
it
had a
always
supposing
face.
We
beyond Amatitlan, on
it
its
way
to
found the
and
it
Guatemala
Basaltic rock
rails of
was graded
City,
which
was abundant
generally made
very good
it
wax, however,
is
masses costing so
seem
many pounds
to be quite inoffensive,
candles.
by the Michatoya
did not
wax
The bees
and the hives often hung
of
indicate
river.
The chimneys
of the ingenios
here.
is
Palin
is
to procure
new and
nor
is
GUATEMALA.
174
we found
a pretty
little
posada.
Our mozos, who were fine fellows, were not far behmd us.
The barometer told us that we were 3,650 feet above San
Jose.
In the morning,
up our
We
we made
bestias' breakfast
is
very shal-
In the depths of
this lake
is
dragged up.
siderable
size
On
altogether,
the
different
from any-
in the republic.
The fishermen's
boats were of a pe-
culiar shape,
projecting
below
the water-line, so
Section of Boat at Amatitlan.
that a cross-section
main
road,
we were
In trying a short
lost in
a cafetal, and
let
We
were deposits
of fine pumice,
much
of
many
At
this hotel,
GUATEMALA
CITY.
175
We
were now
city well
worthy
of study
but not at
all
America,
a represen-
was
but
all
and the
selected,
site,
around was a
sterile plain,
and
city.
its
Eighty-four
the country
posing
all
numbers among
;
size, if
and
its
its
In spite of these
city of Saint
of Central America.
and
of nearly
Almost
streets,
uniform width, do
rough pavement.
Indeed,
our
first
impressions were
for
and
two noble
volca-
176
guatp:mala.
GUATEMALA
noes higher
of sixty
177
still,
mingling
nineteenth century in
city
houses extending
its
was
CITY.
many
of
the
business Avays,
We
the faculty of
even
envied
to
then
As we entered
fort of
all
San Jose
we
the city
;
and
was
it
Taking no
strained
it
was supposed
believe
to
are
undesirable
barbarous age,
relics of a
I did
if
which
guns
to protect.
I
am
con-
not unnecessary
more deadly
we were
assured that
is
by
as
it,
if
public square of
it,
all
lead
accidentally
and
so
was simply a square taken from the tiresome rectangles of the city and only on one side had it
any sufficiently imposing boundaries. The Government
in the city.
It
priestly
power
but
its
monument
GUATEMALA.
178
as
Government
offices.
is
by
The
ers,
interior
is
from the
plain.
front tow-
its
colossal
effect of a
The
good fa9ade.
On
purisshna, caramha
heathen exclaim.
with
stars,
carissima,"
as
we heard
ball
a young
spangled
scarlet
robes.
It
seemed
as
in imitation
of
Madonna.
The
Santiago carried
from which
my
I not only
all
of
when
all
the churches
is
roll
away
The church
it-
Peace.
ajar,
solid,
and decorated by a
fillet
GUATEMALA
CITY.
179
relief.
Within the dark
was still and deserted only the graves beneath the pavement of tombstones were tenanted. A
curtain hung before the image at the altar, and a care-
church
all
not to uncover
visitor
hung a
bell
'^^^^^^^^i'^^j;^'--
Church
"';
^
''^"^^V
of the
much
We
call
liave
modern date
its
of 1872,
sound,
Two
hung by
on the President.
-^^'
when
the
the painfully
twenty-eight
Carmen.
"^
In the
others, with
its side.
futile
attempt to
from
its
GUATEMALA.
180
the gateway to
its
The
interior courtyard.
my
card
in, telling
corporal in
several false-
who
officer arrived,
at once ordered
we were soon
ushered,
O O O
It
is
re-
O O O
place of
this
moved about
He had
not
forgotten
and was
affable,
He
fectly.
called
an
said
honor when
conversed he
seeming
sit
on either hand.
pied
expected to
until
entered
we
sat
interview at
our
but
we
as
by
side
side.
Totonicapan,
to
we should have
all
we asked
for,
Department
and
of the
Interior,
en
el
business.
Some days
later,
We
went
at once,
was gratifying
lent corporal
we
simply
jump up and
passed in unannounced.
full of disorder,
newspapers,
all
and
and the
it
inso-
The
President's
mixed together.
room was
GUATEMALA
and several sheep,
fine bull
CITY.
181
just imported.
I felt that
was decidedly
He was
intelligent.
not
tall,
wore
refer
slowly.
off
him
to
but he smiled and said, " That, senor, has never been
written."
life
was soon
to
man, who
by
years
There
all
that
own
more
republic than
for the
has been
is
in
we went on a Saturday
eral imitation
of the
night.
The
to that
building, a gen-
gador."
The
ballet
was
tolerable,
the
kept by the
trance.
visitor,
The
tickets are
suffi-
1 It was in this garden that the attempt was made to kill President Barrios,
on the evening of Sunday, April 13, 1884. He was walking with General
Barrundia, the Minister of War, when a bomb exploded, severely wounding
both; but to allay public excitement the President bravely walked twice
around the garden, and then home. The would-be assassin was captured, and
proved to be a former conspirator whom Barrios had generously pardoned.
bullets.
GUATEMALA.
182
was
plain,
and not
attractive.
who gazed
tlemen,
which surround
way
this,
in turn in a
The
to us
it
was
In
all
much
my
boxes I
attention
as
the
stage
and among
the
of
and
Susannah Penol,
later, as I
to
whom
was ushered
distinguished
the
had
letters.
Madame
few days
for
had
saw at
seen.
Hotel, which
On Sunday
we found very
comfortable.
is
to see a cock-fight in
gramme, and
in the
morning
many
We
New
York), from
whom we
we found catacombs
clerestory.
partly
Several very
GUATEMALA
183
CITY.
good batli-rooms,
The water
reals.
baths
in the
city
all
disagreeable.
The
sufficient to
an elevated
for four
pres-
is
is
was
turbid character
its
and plunge,
witli douclie
From
cistern.
the bath
supply
pumped
we went
to
an
Nacional.
More
and wax
of the products
were
interesting to
of
me was
as chocolate,
exceedingly high
the Instituto
quality.
Origi-
itself.
Government confiscated
rice,
it
when
any country.
We
which would be
reci-
and
birds.
We
many good
specimens of native
where hung a dismal painting of some poor Indios being torn to pieces by dogs at
the command of the Conquistadores, and finally the muservatory, the faculty room,
we found
GUATEMALA.
184
wrought iron
stirrups, of
had brought
the Conquistadores
from Spain. ^
of great size
a lava
idols
had brought
of
the Lacan-
from various
places,
(figured
all
my
plates.
Spanish
stirrup.
But an incense-burner
of
red
clay found
the
Lago de Ama-
in
the
film,
so
delicate
dark was
re-
the form
was most
complicated,
quite
Japanese
bronzes
One
of these stirrups
nie
by Don Enrique
mgston,
faires
pounds, and
is
at
New
r
now Charge di, Ai-
York, weighs
five
and a half
GUATEMALA
many
purpose.
CITY.
185
valuable manuscripts,
sight-seeing,
we
stopped at a
restaurant near by, and with our lunch had some native
cerveza negra,.
We
lasses.
an
had
beer brewed
unpleasant
from mo-
and we purchased
attracted,
seats
There was a
o'clock.
seven thousand
enclosure.
The
immense
in the
As an
audience
fair
perhaps
exhibition-drill.
soldiers
The
much
like a ballet,
simply a complicated
or
circular building or
we had an
overture
six
human
me
series of pre-
body.
tossed
the
him
Amador
del
the enclosure.
Seville,
in black,
Then came
" bulls,"
of
many
Picadores,
and
they
might
all
we become.
At
first
we wanted
to
have
GUATEMALA.
186
a
man would
satisfy us.
audience dispersed.
unsatisfied
audience have
to see any-
show was
What would
the bull-fight
is
Roman
and disap-
pointed
and the
over,
Guatemala
is
concerned,
''
wish to see
human
blood flow.
At
of the fashion-
cities,
if
they
present there
is
still
more
Our day was not yet ended and as we crossed the Plaza
on returning from a call on a friend, we
found the pavement crowded with people and dotted with
little fires, over which various Indios were cooking doughThe fritters were eaten
nuts, fritters, and chocolate.
with plenty of honey, and were very palatable.
Another night we had an opportunity to see one of the
;
in the evening,
religious processions so
wards prohibited
there
is little
women, and
we attended
and
set
on
fire,
all blazing
:
tinsel,
music, flowers,
the crowd
was in
huge doll,
in part,
children.
but no accident
especially
Roman
befell, so far as I
knew.
GUATEMALA
am somewhat
187
was
sented, but
CITY.
was
(santissima senora)
procession
was obliged
to tip over
tal position.
It
was no doubt
At
and go
how
we
in
head
first in
but
all right,
it
a horizon-
seemed so
are held in
prizes
Zo6tecnica.
It
was
interesting to see
how
toms Bureau
fine
the Treasury
Economica
Dominican
friars.
edifices
are
for girls
two
to their homes.
and well
installed
already mentioned.
one
is
;;;
GUATEMALA.
188
instruction,
and
also
due to the
supported in
the Agricul-
work
Law
School,
besides
Polytechnic Institute,
many
and
School
Design
of
for
among
the Central
The Penitentiary seems to be well conducted, and the House of Correction has extensive workshops, in which good work is
done. No less than twenty public fountains and washingand the Military Hospital
in the
suburbs.
All business
small,
is
and seems
every
sort,
in
very extensive,
bounds merchandise of
in
another fruit
close at hand.
The
not a
little
amusing
to
It
was
retail
nncommercial
city,
kinds of goods,
from
all
The country
variety-
GUATEMALA
stores
of
New England
almost everywhere
189
CITY.
else, it is
As
of the
the
women
many
cloak
Indian
Pottery.
These
CHAPTER
VII.
GUATEMALA TO ESQUIPULAS.
hill
an elevation
to
of
of the city
twelve hundred
feet,
of the capital,
better
in
We
was
we
but Pacaya
We
passed
several small
lages, in
^^^B^-:;r.^^^<:^^^^^^^^^^-'
one of which
we breakfasted
honey and
Pacaya, Fuego,
vil-
on
tortillas.
Agua.
Cerro Redondo
is
is
coffee-culture.
hill "
which
gives the
one of a
The "round
work
We
were.
ment
of
GUATEMALA TO ESQUIPULAS.
191
town
of the Depart-
or Cuilapa,
as
it is
often abbreviated,
we
This, consisting
of ten
we had a bath
As we
the
our path
river
led
in the
On
Hunapu "
feet.
the
way we had
sev-
volcanoes, Pacaya,
in
seeming to be
close at
have the
laro;est
^-^
while
crater,
had none
Agua
visible
from
On
this side.
way
up, and
We
we found some
which
is
left,
pleasantly acid,
to
pines
used
men
fruit,
here
for
wherewith
its
puff
GUATEMALA.
192
of the breath
sail-bearers,
which
We
go in Indian
file.
on this occasion
for
some eight
(twelve hundred inhabitants) had no posada.
Indeed,
it
had nothing but corn and beans, and even water was
scarce
we pushed on
so
we
known
country.
bestias,
We
After dark
hill
some decent
to find
shelter.
camp
fine
pasture,
we
slept
above the
feet
Our barometer
I
sea.
told us
we
it
many
pigeons,
and crows.
little
where we stopped
signs
my bowl
cockroach.
It
for almuerzo
was pleasant
to see
house,
was a
clear stream
among
little
way was
These acacias not only yield gum-arabic, but the pods contain so much
make
ink.
GUATEMALA TO ESQUIPULAS.
calabash-trees, lava streams
and blocks.
The
193
surface of
to Jutiapa, situated
on a plain
We
Before us
Good fortune
and
this resulted in
name
will be
always
room opening
a charm to conjure by. He
to the street as well as into the patio, and we at once felt
at home.
We had walked many miles, I leading, Frank
gave us a large
It
was
fifteen leagues
from Cuilapa to Jutiapa, and the road was very hard and
maiz very
mozos,
scarce.
We
whom we had
Our
GUATEMALA.
194
host brought
self
Pena,
fine red
and
left
us to our
rest.
"Within
fortification.
we saw
(?)
kneeling
ass,
apparently
communion,
figure in
hands
No
in astonishment.
and
his ass,
Christ
we concluded
rode
why
ass
his
was the
As volcanoes
that this
Jerusalem.
to
not asses
ass
on which
are baptized
vegetables and
more
fertile
fruits are
mountain
grown
at
valleys.
some
all
the
distance, in the
Some
of
the
larger
No
but
fruit
was
were fed on
squashes.
Perhaps
at
the
annual
fair
GUATEMALA TO ESQUIPULAS.
assume a
livelier
appearance.
Still
195
made
hired in Guatemala
more
and
little
daughter.
we had bargained
for,
This was
and
was
but the
and the
of a caravan than
puzzled
At last,
mozo we had
child,
little
thin.i:i^,
I acqui-
that the
away
He
woman was
so far
worth
all
On Monday we
and luggage at
six in
We
little
the
and there a
while
fields
little
among
the
trees,
So severe
seek shelter.
five
leagues
We
GUATEMALA.
196
highway during the past few days, and now we saw the
volcanoes of Salvador, one of which was smoking, which I
sujDposed to be Izalco.
some bed
if
was well
stone
tortilla-stones,
of lava
by an avalanche.
in fragments
all
The
about, as
all
We
lucky blow.
cutting
what
The honey
accomplished.
is
good, perhaps
made
of Suchitan is very
its flavor
We
noon
also,
and fed
the cabildo,
we bespoke
a comida at a
little
little
in front of
cook-shop in
church, which
was dark, windowless, and wholly bespattered with batWe beat a hasty
pictures, crucifix and all.
filth,
and after a wash
retreat from this unseemly sanctuary
in the public fountain, returned to the cocina, where we
and
coffee,
and a half
for
cents.
tortillas, fried
As
reals, or thirty-seven
we
passed a noisy
could
make
It
New
wooden
good mill
rollers.
full of
GUATEMALA TO ESQUIPULAS.
loose
rocks,
making
the passage
very
197
We
difficult.
civilized
The
dew-fall
probably always
is
it
We
while
were up at
we got
the
peace with
life
all
fire
light,
in
rolls
this
men, and
we
breakfasted well,
With
indeed,
water
to find
coffee.
feel
at
old,
evidently
work
us.
in ancient times
was much
in
demand
in
the long,
and
We
arrived at
eight o'clock,
and
in the trees,
which neither
filled
bambu
The town
is
appropriately
named
GUATEMALA,
198
clayey in taste.
of
Monte
is
the landscape.
which
Almost
is
was greatest
fields
due,
top,
at the
no doubt, to
comparatively
dr}^
and bar-
ren.
many
Sicilian
volcano
name "Mother
the
Mountains."
of
Not a league
we saw
clear
stream
day
road
all
to
made us
fear
we had
no longer
real; "
Mozo on the Road.
less.
in the afternoon,
we
in the "
camino
us.
GUATEMALA TO ESQUIPULAS.
pilgrims
who
At
pulas.
we camped in a
mountains. No human
six o'clock
high up in the
few
near, but a
199
cattle
pine-forest
fine
habitation
was
The
pas-
We built a roaring
park.
from the
trees,
pegged
fire,
our
enjoyed
securely,
bestias
fell
Suddenly
night-breezes
in
the
pine-tops.
that
thought as
all
I got
was not
as
it
it
human
first
The
should be.
was very
It
of
in
lies "
;
and
like
many
was
filled
The next moment a joyful hinny discovered our mare Mabel, who recognized me before I
Putting my arm around her
could plainly see her.
with
curiosity.
her.
I tried
to
return to
GUATEMALA.
200
Guided by
his answer,
I retraced
my
stumbling
steps,
into a brook I
day.
useless.
far
away
places,
as ever.
By
now
we
fire-
noticed a large
The specimens
The
last hill at
left at
brought
mountains of
Lava Mask
one of our
in
the
Museo Nacional.
CHAPTER
VIII.
HAVE
monuments
of the past,
a Christian
temple whose
fulfilled,
heroes.
joined
it is
who have
the unending
us, if
but for
monuments
is
the temple
We
preceded us in
to thoughtful minds,
the
on the personalities
life.
de-
scent.
little village
to the Santuario
down
It
GUATEMALA.
202
human
figure
with a pre-
posterous
is
broken only by a
small oval
third, still
mark
extensive platform
masonry
posts,
flight
of steps.
On
is
an earthquake country.
Among
tiles,
needing
floor
repairs
in
it
We
and near
Christ.
red
The
young
his church
his
curiosities
of the place.
Firstj
Christ,
''
we wanted
Our Lord
to
famous black
the
see
203
of Esquipulas."
many
in former years as
tival,
was
made
in
Guatemala City
in
1594 hy Quirio
The
the
petition
pueblo of Esquipulas.
of the
a testoon being
and
meet
to
this
The
archbishop
first
Figueroa,
laid
the
of
its
fame very
Guatemala, Pedro
Pardo
far.
de
temple,
1751,
2,
praying with his last breath that his bones might rest
at the feet of this
image
of his Lord.
In 1759 SeSor D.
and on January 6
Twelve days
all
later, the
the
pomp
Romish
The
worthy people who should take upon themselves the
material support of the edifice but Padre Miguel Munoz,
bishop followed.
of
among
pact.
GUATEMALA.
204
wax
of
balsam,
oil,
and brooms.
Now, with
all this
we
was not a
It
holy-
to a small glass
was much
than
less
by time,
ever, only
life size,
and
silver
very black,
stands.
It
painted, how-
inferior in conception
and admitted us
and execution,
hair.
was impossible
me to
for
feel
any
of the
My
imagination
is
felt
Gods
in the Hall of
the Vatican.
pers
my
of
and have
nations,
at Canton,
Buddha,
felt
cliffs
thoughts captive.
But here
have led
in Esquipulas there
nothing
was
ex-votos
these
They were
indeed, as our
human
body, healthy
many
Northerners
may
it
men and
human
To our matter-
Medical
205
of
native platerias.
unknown
in
the
nearest
among
all
known
or
'platero,
silversmith
(common
enough
make
if
in.
It
dog
pose of her
life,
and
much
as
The
years
ago seized
fifty
thousand
it
to
dollars'
its
own
worth of
this
use.
we
gladly
his
to
did.
an immense treasure
of the
GUATEMALA.
206
ancient
locality,
will
not
I fear
Don
kings.
though
my
tell
the
readers
exact
Mountains.
the Merendon
bought oranges of a
asked, ten
believed
in
me
As we
the Templo
left
little girl,
and
I almost
the
girl
more oranges
I ought to have inVery late in
sisted on having twenty for a cuartillo.
arrived,
having been lost in the
the afternoon the mozos
Cerros, where we strangers had found a plain path withThere was not enough daylight left to give
out guides.
brought
three
us a photograph of the
Even
Santuario.
image, but
at the present
we
the white
got
festival,
many
people,
but
perhaps quite as
much
for
As we rode out
men
of the
town
unbroken
hill
is
in the
morning we passed
which
reminds
We
very bad.
back for a
the divide,
we had
that
climbed an
an altitude of
last
me
look at the
As we
crossed
Quezaltepeque.
it
modern shrine
burner, which
207
command-
second
hour
for
our
al-
we
much
did
and
combined,
not see
the
main
we
followed
be-
street
the
Incense-burner.
latter
out of the
We
were now
a winding,
in
clear,
fruit-trees.
our path
sometimes crossed
cliffs.
size,
it,
go a long way
We
to
GUATEMALA.
208
hills
around
us, I
my
had
The daylight
camera at work.
showed what a queer bedchamber we had chosen. Acaciabrambles were thick enough, and there was no level
ground
cliff
closely
We
mozos on
at six o'clock,
many
cultivated,
erally
temp-
resist the
At
after.
sent the
swim
the
in
here
As we approached
sugar-mills.
the
sun broke
when we came
but
On
church, while
valley.
We
far
away
rode up
to the
hill into
left
the
stretched a fertile
town
We
at eleven o'clock,
did,
however, find
good food and a very comfortable room at the large mercantile house of Senora Anacleta Nufio de Monasterio (this
china).
water.
went
to church, finding
it
large,
and a fountain
of
of
and
good
lodgings settled,
we wished
to
To
decided to offer
a penance
we
I placed
209
saint-case.
saints
satisfied
Well,
;
but
We
on the
Jefe,
lions of Chiquimula.
We
rode
first to
were
still
standing
The
place were
now
plants
made
we
the locality
We
us with pride
it
will be,
if
14
GUATEMALA.
210
in Guatemala.
showed us
visit to
of
fields
made
in Buffalo, N. Y.,
one
mills, both
product
and the
is
a day.
At
five
We
left
before
the ancient
we were serenaded by
and the
town
of
the
received
music
of her friends to
an excursion
Copan
exam-
to
The road
gigantic
pulpy
We
fragile
lasso,
cacti.
but
Frank
tried
with
branch
not
could
pull
(chiefly
it
On
by the road
trees
many
cylindrical
and
raw-hide
his
off
to
were
euphorbiaceous trees)
large
nests,
eighteen
mud-wasp.
where we found
was
lodg;ino;
and comida.
Our
lierreras in the
town
first
search
re-shoeing.
sick,
nails,
of Thor.
So
Frank had
and
to do the
211
was
enough
little
we
There
and early
was
of the militia
drill
and
fin-
ished.
factory
and the
'
Zacapa puros
much
" are
liked
by
smokers.
All the
we passed
way
No
fine brook.
fruit
its
dry banks.
of the ques-
some serpentine.
mountain-belt.
We
and
The shapes
changed
large numbers,
mass
it
of rich color,
in sight
at
once.
It w^as large,
flowers.
Never in
and as many as
Surely
we
five or six
could
its
would be
have made a
cal-
and
GUATEMALA.
212
this
Sunday was a
named
in
honor
red-letter day,
marked by
this tree
fine arbo-
and shape
that
my
Mann
Hesperomannia
twenty years
before.
In the afternoon
tano,
we
Don Caye-
cattle,
coffee
by the
Although we arrived
at
Gualan
in finding a lodging
we had
at half-past five,
also
but at
while Santiago,
who
The town was insignificant and decayed, although on the main road from
Guatemala City to the coast. After a supper of the
toughest meat we had found in this republic, our host
gave us his daughter's room and while Frank attempted
place, took our animals in charge.
to
make
the
little
bed comfortable,
slung
my hammock
rafters.
down from
my hammock
shook
above.
and decided
while
to send our
we took a
canoa.
mozos on
to
it
^2.50.
higgage,
we were
we met our
Calvario,
many
whereupon Frank
price from ^4.00 to
;
with a
useless Santiago
213
we passed
two hundred
feet
brought us
the
of about
man who
descent
to the river
bank,
the
latter
with precious
shelter.
upon them
close
and
White herons,
us.
enough, and
we
At Barbasco the
river
the rest, one being carried by the current into the bushes
down
contrast to
was no such
1
in
stream.^
to
marked
but there
Rio Motagua
swim
for his
life,
and
GUATEMALA.
214
In
forest.
many
places
growing.
trail
We
forest-environed spot.
this
league
we saw nothing
interesting except
two humming-birds
bitter duel.
arches,
groined
many
so
were
vaults
but
dogs
flies
and
in
of
Our
mosquitoes
were
and
were
living
and
pigs,
there
stones
at
the
doo;s
wrong way.
We
could throw
but
insulted.
all
At
night she put us on a shelf of slim bambus that would
not bear our weight standing, though they made a fairly
nothing
else,
cigar.
We
comfortable bed.
poultry
neath us,
shared this
loft
215
and looking down into the common room bewe saw by the light of a bowl of oil strange
domestic scenes.
and smoking
earth floor
Women
cigars,
and
it
was pleasant
to see
such at-one-ness
who
way
we found
a pretty
sat
on the
to the
of
On
We
little
.^).
making a bag
decoction,
placed.
of the hide
and
filling it
re-
we
lodged.
At night the men of the place were all drunk and very
The fires were kept burning late, and cast weird
noisy.
the darkness.
nineteen
we
reals
said our
for our-
so close
on
we should
GUATEMALA.
216
drop
in.
only to
rifle
came
and here
of black waters
first,
We
pullet's).
creek
and
my
and
more resembled a
which
on the
Santiago waded in
little
mozo leading
Once
care.
(less in
left
I followed close
with great
way, stopping
than a
size
this
mule
his wife
and we
all
by the hand
his best to
Cohune
and similar palms were on all sides, and we first saw
here the iiacaija {Euterpe edidis ?),
a slender palm with
Enormous trees with buttresses
edible pods or buds.
were prominent
even the goyava took this form here
among the lower palms, and ginger and wild bananas
very
little
bordered the rather indefinite path, which we had constantly to clear of vejucos and fallen palm-leaves.
round
holes,
large
as
as a
flour-barrel,
little
^wetting
mule
slid
soaking
this
large
Many
showed where
insects.
down
my
muddy
mare stuck
and
my
saddlebags.
road,
champas
in a mud-hole,
we came
fast
to a clearing,
going to ruin.
Mr. A. P. Maudslay,
in
principal
built
also
217
ment (A on the
plan),
fire,
which was
close
at
We
spread
first
monu-
hand.
Mr.
in-
analogous
quite
to the
known
those better
of
Stonehenge.
Mauds-
excavation Mr.
lay had
made
to
exam-
was
a monolith of light-col-
ored, coarse-grained
well
carved
entire
surface
sandstone,
over
its
On
not
deities,
but
attempted
likenesses,
joined with
the tigre's
head to indicate
tainship,
and a
Remains
at
Quirigua.
chief-
skull
to
represent
death.
but not
Frontispiece.)
intelligible
(See
sides
quite dis-
to
What would
Both
No
locked chamber
When was
this stone
;;
GUATEMALA.
218
by whom, and
set up,
when
portraits,
do for their
questions
is
of idolos
is
to
what purpose
cut in
an
of
the
the denominative
Egyptian obelisks.
dead as
modern graveyards.
to those at Copan
and
fancy
cartouches
of this
are the
fellows.
of the
Whose
it
will at once
is
for
the
in
the
time, and
photography.
We
extreme.
our imaginings
left
was
shadows on the monuments,
swarmed
Insects
However,
readers
focusing-cloth.
away a dozen
pic-
cemetery looked
We
rubber
the
Whether
what
tures.
my
like,
more questionable.
is
made only
men had
The
already covered
with
soil full of
On
our
left
inspect,
The
and
first
in front of this
feet
were
\HC
sS^il
Ci^^'y-
^--- 1'
P!>)^aJt.c^
MONOLITn AT QUIRIGUA,
E.
was four
219
and
nine inches wide, two feet nine inches deep, and eighteen
feet high.
Both
B and C
Two
much
as they
Monolith at Quirigua, F.
One
(F)
is
level of
side, is
GUATEMALA.
220
The
inclination
tical
is
ground,
it
is
Of
all
cast of countenance
is
very Egyptian.
On many
of these
bol
is
the figure on the reverse of E), although this symusually of complicated form, as on the celebrated
tablet at Palenque.
breast, in
now
The nose
is
of the figure
on what
is
originally.
The
is
and on them
rest
what
closely
221
felt
On
figure.
A dia-
better preserved.
dem
distinct
under a
and very
realistic
is
large
the
ornaments
hat-like
much more
distinct than
on the other
costume
The
side.
more
is
elabo-
rate,
in so
high
Two
relief.
large
masses (D and G)
like
the same
of
bowlder-
stone
are
placed unsymmetrically
Monolith E (back).
carved
all
over with
figures
and
inscriptions,
They
are
being
fashioned at one end into the head and claws of some monster.
decidedly
ing beard,
is
Although on the
flow-
these
stone,
text,
mutilated
human
face.
is
GUATEMALA.
222
were
altars,
upper surface
is level.
We
being
still
We
ing
little of
the
shown on the
know
and very
plan, because
we
bottle.
sardines
among
these
an interesting
after
ment
Maya
The heat
visit of
of insects
relics,
Although
visitors
and
call
fellows
cemetery
this
who have
unimportant names.
for
two
and then
miles,
and
visible,
it
seems that
As we
left
the lowlands
we came upon
but
we
could not
quarry work.
In the path
apparently ancient
near at hand.
As
we saw fragments
of pottery
the path
wound up
the hill
we
crossed
It
was pleasant
to get
223
among
the pines
mud
When we
I think I dread
the
office of
in
and
tions
little
food
but as
it
cost us only
two
reals,
we
had
in charge
she scrambled under the bed where the hens were roost-
ing,
We
of them.
cattle,
not an
and
brute suffering.
We
were
in
the
butterflies
were
flitting
the way.
all
fine
passion-
we had
way
to
place.
Guatemala
occasionally as a bridge
when
As we
we had an attractive view
wide.
all
was
Lago de
Izabal,
and
later
GUATEMALA.
224
of the
town
itself,
us of Belize
level,
and ditched
reminded
On
At
made a
and
streets,
was a
is
fort,
The wharf
at the custom-house was long, but had only two feet
of water, so shallow is the lake at this side.
The shore
was sandy, and the water clear. The principal streets
are lighted by gaz (kerosene)
and as the ditches on
at 6, 8,
noise.
is
New
Orleans,
a necessary precaution.
is
at the right
is
fine
who seemed
in horticulture.
The church
and on the
at the
Campo
hill
Santo.
is
to take
much
interest
is
the
We
saw
antiquities
Motagua.
of
;;
and
225
flint
whistles of
terra-cotta.
in a squat-
ting position,
loins,
and a
paunch
coif,
fellow reminded
and was
all
me
One
little fat
of light-colored clay.
Another,
who
also
had a
an Egyptian sphinx.
But the
third,
Izabal.
close resemblance to a
figure
Professor
Putnam
whistle could be
color, bore
made
The
I tried to
This
mouth-
buy these
collection
is
15
them
GUATEMALA.
226
all
left
is
of
them.
found
workmanship
work
of the
may
modern
any
Indios.
piazza there
be
but
was no wind.
when
of
'^
City of
finished our
in
daybreak
my
some
shaddocks,
toranjas, or
bridle,
We
my
At
raw-hide
hung
of difficulty in getting
but
it
was done
at
last, as
before
noon we
started, after
an excellent breakfast on
joined us.
We
Castillo de
cords of
night.
San
some three
who had on
b.
227
was
respected,
roomy place
comfort was in marked contrast
canoa-voyage up, some months
house was a
fine,
Islands and
la-
we
Rio Dulce.
At
at an end.
CHAPTER
IN THE
physical
THE
varied but
it
is
OLDEN TIME.
America are rich and
features of Central
pled
IX.
with a
forests,
and the
earth-fires.
man
whose authors no
knows,
the enigma, as
nes
is
it
must
beyond
his-
and corrupt
as mythic
if
We may
all history.
we
myth
is
the
we do not
have preceded us
or
we may simply
what has
accept
its simplicity,
who
wonder
In an uncontroversial
upon
other
this continent,
spirit I
human
and leave
sources
races
and
at
it
of other
who can no
longer
IN
known
as Tabasco,
whom by patient
-^
came
229
to the coast
pire of Xibalbay^
now
Em-
He
of the Votanides.
Nachan
or Culhuacan,
travellers
their
all
Similar
discovery.^
ruins, inscribed
and the
arts of architecture
in
of
still
extending
its
who founded
southwest,
naming
called Tultecas).
Tula (whence
it
The
name, as
is
by
his
power
to such a
height as wholly
whose conquered
in various directions.
Some
went northward
to
destroyed by famine;
and the
survivors,
Le mi the de Votan.
Pronounced Shibalbay.
Discovered by Spaniards in 1750, but no
until 1834.
cle
by their
H.
led
illustrations
were published
GUATEMALA.
230
known by
principal
city
of
now
Copantl,
is
given.
It
seems prob-
Mam^
tribes, called
or
Mem,
came from the North and destroyed both Tula and NaAnother inroad, led b}' the four chiefs Balam
chan.
Agab, Balam Quitze, Mahucutah, and Iq Balam, advanced as far as Mount Hacavitz in Verapaz, north of
Rabinal
and founded
that tribe
remained as freebooters
chiefs
known
as the
They
Quiches.
constantly attacked their neighbors, and offered the captives taken in these encounters to their
with
Avilitz
Quiche
god
Toliil,
who,
trinity in
the
cult.
hands
disappeared, leaving
of three sons, Iq
the
government
Balam having no
in
offspring.
the
And
The
in
annalist
tells
us that
before
the
rulers, in
de Izabal
^
?)
and came
Cakchiquel alphabet.
IN
Nacxit,^
who
instructed
them
in the art of
231
government
On
joy
them with
Mount
now began
No rude
who
Indios these
built
mortar.
From
centre
this
until
it
Europe
in the
Middle Ages.
to fourteen, or
line of
monarchs, extending
but
be followed.
Only
this
seems
were but
new
At
Eome and
and
Carthage.
first
of a long series of
rivalled those
between
This recalls the Kahili, or feather standard, the symbol of authority in the
Hawaiian Islands.
GUATEMALA.
232
from Ilocab
and
altars, as
stone.
in air,
and answered to
Tlie Plaza
tell
be of interest to
read what
we may more
all
this
monuments
the
them
clearly see
art,
learning;,
^O'
may
It
this
nation
of the
New World
what
has
it
and
but few
left
once was.
past, that
outline at best
but
it is
portrait
Guatemala as well
as to the Quiches.
hell,
THE OLDEN
IN
He
seven days.
an
tigre,
and
that
European black
of
233
and a mass
eagle,
TIME.
change
"And
art.
surely,"
says
the
was the respect he gained by these miraand all those of his kingdom."
Nothing puzzles the student more than the duplication
and interchange of names but let it be remembered that
the Quiche names that have come to us are rather titles,
and this is especially the case with Gucumatz, a word
cles before all the lords
''
applied to
Cad-
his people.
is
claim the
title.
de Bourbourg.
and
''
of
shades of night
it
Tepeu Gucumatz
to
and wisdom
And
the second
is
the
The
to light the
name
signification of these
Tepeu, high.
is
virile (xiphil,
is
brum
this
the Lightning
follows
of
way
the third.
is
the
in
the
It is
sel
man.
and
ococ, to enter)
Xpiyacoc,
mem-
GUATEMALA.
234
considering the
will retire
and
work
Know
of creation.
but
we have
and honor
yet
They
us.
and
spoke,
shall respect
land appeared
the
because of them."
all
form man.
First they
made him
Not being
able to
of
that being,
make man
mud; but
the rains
and he
dissolved.
man
should be
made
of
wood, and
woman of
human
children, a bird
named Xecotcovuch
tore
out
their
balam crushed
their bones.
flesh,
trees fled
Of
all
the
numerous
present day.
of the
IN
235
men
primitive
slept, their
wives were
built,
who
While these
not, however,
same meal.
The
celestial
as they wished.
much
safety,
were defective
by no means
tolerable, but
;
and he was
built too
sort of Lucifer
literally,
among
its
all
who imagined
the stars.
tells at
How
length; and
"I
he
am
mode
of
belief
in all
glory.
" This
is,
was
called
and
so
we
men
'
on
GUATEMALA.
236
when he
(cerhatana)
able
him
and then
is
eating
we
will shoot
him and
dis-
gun on
sons
called
his shoulder.
And
And
so more-
And
I,'
am
the
maker
said Cabracan,
molish
all
am
the world.'
^
:
Know
ye that I
am
and
seemed
'
and
of Vucub-caquix
and
the sun.'
and
Nevertheless
Xbalanque.
mothers were not yet created, and thus the two youths
plotted the death of Vucub-caquix, of Sipacua, and of
Cabracan.
"'
And
how
was
IN
among
237
the leaves of the
grass.
fall,
Then Vucub-caquix
him.
it
off at
go
and
the shoulder
seized
beaten by Vucub-caquix,
it,
let
Vucub-caquix
for they
were not
"'What
husband Vucub-caquix.
''
'
What
has happened
my
teeth,
arm
and
Put
And
my
jaw
of one of them.
caquix.
it,
it
But
in the
all
'
said
fire
Vucub-
mean
while
to
'
if
we
are in your
company,
'
'
GUATEMALA.
238
youths.
"
'
And
re-
of Vucub-caquix,
When
asked,
"
'
"
'
"
How are
'
who
sons
"
are with
you
'
tortilla,'
to
the corner of
elders,
so far as to give
we have
but
them a
bit of
"
'
What
is it
that you do
'
said the
lord.
"
'
Sir,
'
is
to extract the
my toothache for I am
without rest, and cannot sleep, and my eyes trouble me also,
since the two devils shot me, and so I cannot eat.
Now
have compassion on me, for all my teeth are rattling
'
about
IN
"
Surely,
'
pull out
Oh
''
'
without
"
And
"
We
'
sir, it is
my
we
will
239
but
can't eat
they replied,
we
will
put in
ground bone.'
"
But
"
this
'
them
'
pull
in order.'
"And
and
was only white corn that they put in the place of teeth,
and the kernels of corn shone in his mouth. And his countenance fell, and he never more appeared a lord but they
And
took out all his teeth, and left his mouth smarting.
it
and Xbalanque.
"
And Vucub-caquix
arm
quix
and
also
and
so
died,
Chimalmat
was
of
his
Vucub-ca-
of Vucub-caquix.
Then the doctor took all the precious stones which had
The old man
puffed him up with pride here on earth.
and old
woman who
reunited and
only
to
cause
was
the
well.
And
it
it
and
in its place,
and
youths, and
Heart of Heaven."
of
the
'
GUATEMALA.
240
(four
continues
"
Then
how
follows
and evil-doing of
how he
Sipacua, and
of the pride
the youths
Hu-
called
is
ec,
they
made
in a cave
rivulet,
am
"
And
'
they made
it
and placed
am
eat.
Only
fishes
and
'
What
crabs,
and
is
your food
cannot bear
"
it
something to
"
and claws
shell
replied,
'
ones of other
quered.
"
hill called
little
and the
And
of flat stones.
under a
and the
Then
in truth
my
hunger.'
said they
it is
'
There
very large
is
Sipacua.
but
it
bit us,
We
wanted to catch
it, or else we would have caught it.'
" Have pity on me and take me where
it,
'
and
now
it
is,*
said
'
THE OLDEN
IN
"
'
We
do not wish
to,'
Go up
will be in front of
it
said they
under a great
said Sipacua.
'
plenty of birds
T alone
will
"
me
miserable
'
you
know where
'
;
will
hill
go straight to
they are,
rock.'
to catch
because
we
"
Do
it ?
not
tried to catch
we crawled in on our
by a trifle we could not catch it.
bellies
it,'
and so
it/ said
making a
is
will shoot
us
it
I will
go under the
'
if
241
noise
"
TIME.
it,
and
So
it
make
it
and
bit
will be
first.'
'
And
crab was lying on his side, and his shell was very brightcolored
youths.
to eat
'
for he
it,
down
retreated.
And
'
Did
"
'
up high,
"
n't
it
you catch
and
it,
And immediately
fell
all
quietly
it ?
I just missed
he had got in
he tried to
"
and he wished
And
enter lying
secret of the
me
it
to enter
but as
head
he crawled in head
it
has gone
first.'
first
and when
down upon
his breast,
down
and he returned no
And thus was Sipacua conquered by the youths Hunahpu and Xbalanque
and they tell that in ancient times it was he who made
more.
16
'
'
GUATEMALA.
242
Under
is
called
and now
will
we
tell of
the other
'
''
Then
'
This have
the earth
ought not so to
the sunrise.'
"
'
Heart
be.
There
they replied,
is
'
and
no danger.
Heaven, above
of
him towards
It is well,'
to risk.
also.
all ?
seems good to us
it
Is not
'
yom' greatness,
'
"
'
am
'
;
am
only
ing them.'
"
'
Then
What
nor do I
names
said
I don't
recognize you,
What
are your
THE OLDEN
IN
*^
We
'
243
TIME.
We
bird-lime.
we
'
we
catch
are
only
birds
with
are poor
we
see a great
mountain, and
And
so lofty that
very pleasant.
it is
So
'
it
mountains,'
if
in
sweet odor
overtops
other mountains.
overturn
its
Here
the
all
is
it
is
so
it
said
us.'
will
you
see
"
'
this
Cabracan.
'
'
it ?
"
'
"
'
Very
well,' said
be strange
if
we
'
it is,
Cabracan,
'
let
us go
rises.'
and
if
there
left.
we
a bird
is
will
One
will go
it
'11
We
shoot
him.'
" So they
be said
down
Then the
youths made a
fire
and
fire
set
they put on
desire
is
it.
'
This we
tizate,
its
savor.
(wise
the ground
is
to light.'
the Creator
and
!)
white earth
in the
before
'
when
This our
him he must
human
GUATEMALA.
244
it.
And
'
odor
"
What
I
He
for his
And
is
smell
this
give
it,
your food
me
Truly
it is
an appetizing
bit.'
and he quickly
of the sun,
But Cab-
feet together,
turies ago.
del Quiche
and
it
of this city,
IN
245
The
dom
was a
fine
an extensive king-
situation
It
was
and
in the Sierras of
Andalusia
was well fortified, and embellished with all the knowledge and taste of the time.
On the platform where Frank and I had stumbled over
Moorish kingdom,
of the
it
buildings, so
distinct
built high
steep
pyramid
in the centre of
now
Our knowledge
Utatlan.
called
of
the
but slight
to give
of
an
but enough
is
known
site
kingdom.
cient
base
of
sat
and the
the altar,
near the
me
city
Ancient Temple.
the ruin of
life.
at
stone
stucco.
floated
From
the
banners of
flat roofs of
many
brilliant
white
colors
and strange
devices
GUATEMALA.
246
whose
to this Plaza,
stucco,
and heaps
was
floor
of fragrant flowers
mountain of
All around
and expectant
know them
all
their tongue.
in
seemed to
and understand
It
me
garments
the
the outer
in
world
and
had hidden
king
was
casa verde he
prayer and
In his
eno;ao;ed in
meditation,
was
fruit
while
and un-
Indio Sacrificing.
cooked maiz.
unclothed, but stained with dismal dyes
day, as the sun rose and
set,
worshipped.
Once only
in his life
must he do
this
nobles keeping
the fathers of
and
many
IN
their blood,
THE OLDEX
TIME.
of their king
247
to be the god-children
priest.
manly
and drew
duties,
the
their
The
votaries
cells at
them
I could see
narrow
causeway that led into the town, and then they were
to sight as they climbed the steep ascent.
silence these
men and
lost
In profound
The solemn
silence
broken by a crash of trumpets and drums, while a procession of a different kind took
up
its
march
to the tem-
ple.
were, not
sacrifice.
fiesta,
of holy
which had
were now
earth beneath,
nor of the waters which are under the earth," but carved
from wood and stone and decked with beaten gold, hung
with jewels, and borne triumphantly on the shoulders of
the noblest citizens.
Then
all
bustle in the
robes and mitre, and for a while the people gave them-
have no
we
this sanatory
Stone knives
GUATEMALA.
248
up
selves
seemed as
to
generally
men had
through
it
if life
these
and
knew
of an-
that
gone freely
the
royal
by four
perhaps
women were
honored
officers of
free to these
to be sacrificed to Tohil.
terrible
It
was strange
was coming
to see
how
to be affected
scene.
on the
altar-top,
and the
chief priest,
who
was
and nobles
strug-
a shudder,
Plaza,
the
in
among
with the stone knife and tore out his ouiverina: heart.
Holding
this
in
the
golden
THE OLDEN
IN
placed
reverently
it
the
in
TIME.
mouth
249
of the
may increase
Give
we may be nourished and
thy people
that
live
be
are thine
prosperity,
Hear our
"So
we
loudly
!
that
idol,
"
suppli-
And
the people
Lord!"
it,
off
where we were
sitting
so
On
that
peacefully,
little
mound
hundreds,
yes,
ceptable
the
offering
be their creators.^
^
the
to
gods
ac-
to
have often had the pleasure of conversing with cannibals, and they
me that the hands were the choicest morsel. It will be noted
always assured
is
it.
GUATEMALA.
250
religious history
is
pleasant reading
let us
turn to other
matters.
The more
is
artificial
civilization
''
happy
is
the
man
them."
was a most
auspi-
and
With
each
returning
birthday
was
duly
remembered.
all
children
hence
among
their descendants.
sacrifices to
murders so
cruel, so
Tohil so
much more
homicide.
Were
common
the
in this
Reputation?
1 The Spaniards found, according to Herrera (Decade III. lib. iv.), paintings done at Utatlan eight hundred years before the Conquest, in which were
represented the three kinds of royal insignia,
251
ties."
first,
month
signifies
the
was
and
blue
of
red,
Ideographs.
readily recognized,
;
of
taste
with
long
scribe.
rude figure of
censer
handle
gum
incense,
copal
always
used
as
denoted
Ancient Incense-burner.
sacrifice.
This art of
was a very
it,
and
it
was
GUATEMALA.
252
The
have
knew
they
Satan.
men than
knew
a creature they
padres
the
of
skilled draughts-
less
new
so well as
own
as
artisans of France.
region
produce
made
cloths
of
works of
weaving a
inches wide
I once
art.
girdle on a
;
watched an Indian
woman
six
it
is
though
The coun-
by
use.
For
and
and
are often
fibres
this
hammocks
redes.
is
found
among
and bake.
the
potsherds
little
skill
to
model
color,
hard
IN
253
although figured
The Quiche
Not a
was seen, nor any painted fragments,
work was common enough.
rivers
abounded
in fish,
querors
little
found
that
civilization
No wonder
labor.
all
and the
forests
and
produced abundant
fields
the
Spanish con-
astonished
them, a
but a
found in Mexico.
It
may
it
was an
aristocratic
When
Ahpop)
may
it
monarchy hereditary
who performed
The
life
had been Nim-Chocoh-Cawek, became Ahpop-Camha, and his cousin (son of the king's brother),
of his father
civil
service regencies
fitted himself,
were
by exercise
any one
series of offices.
The
which
"
GUATEMALA,
254
who
use the " dear people " shuply as cat's-paws, are cer-
tainly avoided
but was
it
unrighteously
The
of
A council of
four,
and the
The judges, who were also tax-gatherers, were appointed from the noble families, and held office during
good behavior death was the penalty for impeding these
Capital punishment was renmagistrates in their office.
;
his
among
first
immediate
relatives.
who hunted
modern
among
but, as
times, there
first
In
cacao,
THE OLDEN
IN
common
of the customs
the
kingdom
to
TIME.
most
255
of the inhabitants of
of
Agriculture
among
was
(frijoles),
which was
said to
have been
in
first
They
small change.
their
clothing,
cultivated cotton,
moderation.
reserved
the
for
which furnished
nobles
and
these seeds were then left in the open air four nights
full
duties.
The Indios
then, as now,
we do not know.
Utatlan.
first
importance, and
Embroidery was
plants they plaited
also
fibrous
(jimco)
The
potter's
work was
also of great
GUATEMALA.
256
were colored with certain waters and mineral deI do not know that they had any glaze, other
posits.
size,
than perhaps
salt.
in
skill
little
and
all
he
tells us,
who have
tions.
many
were referred
who
all
and
their
good deeds to
still
another day.
There
weeks.
but the
into
IN
We know
THE OLDEN
TIME.
257
of the
little
more
and
skill
agility
The court
hundred
and
two
from twenty
in each, at a height of
feet,
open
ends
of
the
little
temples.
to twenty-four
in
some
careful
ball of
and
large
rubber,
feet apart.
(I
not on a bat or
racket, but
padded
on the
buttock,
endeavored
throw
it
to
^
^
Ring xfor r,
Ball Game.
Stone r,
through the
ring, but
without touching
it
As
the
be supposed
Remains
any
went
of the spectators
game
so
it
may
in
scant
garb.
many
cities,
these
to
the
illustration
Monarquia Indiana,
17
lib.
is
ii. cli.
at Chichen Itza
xii.
GUATEMALA.
258
four
is
it
diameter,
in
feet
symbols of Quetzalcoatl.
it
offence,
and those
of defence
were coats of
cotton,
While the
teponaztleSj
an Alpine
had any
file
it
especial uniform.^
sort of
lure.
pelled
to
In
lieges.
sions arose
manded
all
;
and the
privileges
plehs, incited
by demagogues,
by the mob.
mob-rule.
this
de-
of the Cakchiquels,
Among
Huntoh and
street-riot, of
of
armor belonging
no importance in
the
surrender
turned
itself,
Cakchiquels,
Cakchiquel
mob
the
of
to
against
upon
called
kings
these
259
the
Quicab
their
to
The
fury.
their
them to retire to Iximche, or Tecpan QuauhteThey did so, and this city became their capital.
vised
malan.
Now
and
The new
Quiches wane.
the
of
inhabitants
its
prepare
for
capital
the
is
strife
fortified,
evidently
impending.
The
first
attack
is
made by
Quicab
dies,
and Tepepul
II.,
Their king
Iztayul III.
ine,
The
pomp
with
set
out
it.
kings of Iximche of
pared
for
we have
''
the
their peril,
contest.
In the
as the
dawn began
Tohil
As soon
god
Chronicle
files
of the Quiches
were seen
command
and
GUATEMALA.
260
"
The
fear-inspiring.
war-cries and the clangor of the martial instruments stupefied the combatants,
little
The most
their ranks.
and the
Iztayul,
who
of their
army
fled
without
fight-
losses
Among
calculated.
and
made
of both armies
Notwithstanding, after a
their enchantments.
use of all
ing,
and
all
were put
children, that
it
to the sword.
was impossible
Our
old
men
tell
us,
my
who
Such
only as names,
of
made such
a brave struggle
we
who had
left
At
and
ma}'
we
last this
most
to the
and
THE OLDEN
IN
TIME.
261
along the Pacific coast, until they came to the Rio Michatoya,
where the
priest
who had
led
re-
by
died.
the
sulted in
halt, half
Nicaragua.
Exiles,
and
people
own
of their
people,
the
Akahales,
who
occupied the
The king
Izabal.
of the
Tecpan Quauhtemalan.
victorious Cakchiquels,
court.
Warned
of
five
of his friends.
As
two kings the unfortunate Akahales Avere assassiTheir riches were seized, and their towns quietly
nated.
incorporated into the Cakchiquel kingdom.
of the
to
and
felt
Wookaok,
GUATEMALA.
262
to the
and on
its fall
they put
Now
was near
The white men had
the close of the fifteenth century.
already landed on the coast of America, and the history
Insurrections
of the tribes was hastening to a close.
here, treasons and plots there, make the substance of
what there is to tell. The attempt of Cay-Hunahpu to
of the ruling tribes of Central America, and
incite rebellion
it
independence.
who
Chief
among
them proclaimed
their
own
tribe
with the
title
and they were well provided with lands and settlements by the Sacatepequez, that they might not ally
land,
Montezuma
not explain.
may have
the
What
communicate with
arms
Ocean
who
tried
Certainly
but there
interior of
is
no proof that he
Guatemala.
Whatever
IN
263
or an allimet with poor
commg
invaders, they
success.
to them,
to listen
said.
leave his capital that very day, and the country within
twenty suns.
This
is
we have
of
any
march of Cortez.
In Utatlan Vahxaki-Caam and Quicab were kings when
a Cakchiquel wizard, who some say w^as the king's son,
came by night to the palaces of Utatlan and yelled and
the famous
and as
window,
of the
called
fully opprobrious
together
all his
epithets.
A Quiche wizard
under-
took the task, and chased the foreigner a long time, both
At
to mountain.
last
he cap-
he had insulted.
When
asked
if
king,
you."
"^
you
shall see
Then the
what a
nol^les
festival
we
will
make with
and
tigers,
GUATEMALA.
264
execution, he
Know
the
all
others,
bit,
is
at
men
you
like
and
terrible
from head
cruel, sons of
to foot,
Teja, will
all
these palaces,
and
When
rificed
will
dwellings
attention
little
there,
make them
all
suffering
to his prophecy.
defeat
seldom, but
came at
Tecpan, and
was
especially
among
fatal
the
city of
nobility,
both
kings
dying.
left
to
the vultures.
When
this scourge
Qat were called to the throne, and during their reign came
the news of the terrible
work
mighty
We
and
letter of
Cortez to Charles V., dated in Mexico, Oct. 15, 1524, describing this
embassy
of
North.
quels
their
forests
who had
of
the
the miseries
IN
Whether
selves.
Central America
did
THE OLDEN
TIME.
265
by any combination
could
the Lacandones, no
but
the
tribes
of
it is
Probably their
influence could
many
tribes,
horses,
tecas
and
With
opponents.
hastened to join
the invaders
The Indies
were utterly routed but they fell back and made preparaOxib-Queh was then Ahautions for a greater struggle.
Ahpop of the Quiches, and his fellow-king or Ahpop-Camha
fought their
first
men.
GUATEMALA.
266
was Beleheb-Tzi
the
Tecum, as commander-in-chief of
(the annalists
many
!)
soldiers
make
it
he brought together.
some
spies
in the
No
city, sent
and as
he had captured
chiefs.
Some
were victorious.
called
come
own
Desperately
ended
and
the market-place.
More
in a
way
that
is
men and
The
and camped
locusts than
their blood.
battle
loss of the
in
human
army
to the city
hungry
like
where the
after
On
the
horses wounded.
name
resistance,
to Quezaltenango.
Under
Peace offered
sacrifice to the
god of
battles.
Here
at the
IN
first
267
mass celebrated
murderers knelt.
in
deserted,
men from
towns)
boring
marched out
to
was
approaching
and
be-
This was
the
gathering around
it.
of
who
last the
moment
Spaniards
the
nafjual of the
At
Tecum
fell lifeless
at the feet of
the Conquistador.
killed
and persons
of rank."
King of Spain.
The last army of the noble Quiches being destroyed, and
to the
their
utmost
efforts
it is
not
difficult to
imagine the
two kings.
they
GUATEMALA.
268
two means
wooden
enemy
of entrance closed,
were to
roofs
destroyed.
It
was an
He
rado.
and might
wary general than Alva-
effective plan,
less
on the plea that his horses could not bear the paved
streets,
visit
ceived
friendship.
When
all
the
them
tial
By
a court-mar-
alive.
This hor-
rible
Week,
most
cross),
to the service of
the lords
land
and
His Majesty,
determined to burn
The
and peace
queme), and
los
and razed
of this
commanded
to its foundations."
to
despatch messengers to
his
Cakchiquel
allies,
who
IN
The reception
THE OLDEN
and
the
Many
country.
Henceforth the
Atitlan,
battles are
vidual oppression.
of
of the Quiches,
their
of
destruction
martyrdom
after the
defenders
sole
269
TIME.
Cakchiquel
Itzcuintlan
tants.
unorganized
considerable
kingdom
the
capital
of
patron
Santiago
(Saint
and
opposition,
of
returned
of
to
Guatemala,
James)
spite of
claiming
Spain.
This
as
was
While
allies
in Iximche,
what
his true
of the Cakchiquels
cess
Xuchil
had
fallen
One
character was.
had
but the
of the chiefs
eye
of
the Conquistador
whom
he intended to subdue.
The husband
petition
a rich
present of gold
with his
and ornaments.
"But
who thought
prince,
as
he had
Again Alvarado
of Iximche, Belall
GUATEMALA.
270
silver
and
to
''
pain.
within
If
The
they
that
days
five
know
by a native
kings, advised
and
your gold
all
my
well
heart
is
"
!
children,
and they
reso-
refused to return
enemies.
destruction
this
upon Guatemala
and
When
in
the
tribes
menced
for so terrible
the
tyranny.
iniquit}^
Priests
;
it
sloughs of
and
soldiers vied
to
have
the present
tionship,
according to
ethnologist
classifies
rather than by
Guatemala and
Indians of
Dr.
the
Otto
Indios
my
readers
their
rela-
Stoll.
This learned
mainly
by language
am
myself seep-
the
of
tical
who
Bengalis
linguistic
losing
their
their
very
tionships
little
and
the
be-
stress
any system
classification
from
but
know
mother-tongue
disassociation
disuse or
distinctions.
imagine
well
of
271
of
the ^vhole
human
of
in a classification in
us take
the
chart
we have
of
In the
part, or
mean time
let
at present.
1.
Mam.
2. Ixil.
G.
Quekehi.
11. Cakchiquel.
16. Cliorti.
7.
Choi.
12. Pipil.
17. Alaguilac.
Maya.
3.
Aguacateca.
8.
Mopan.
13. Siiica.
18.
4.
Uspanteca.
D.
Quiche.
14. Pupuluca.
19. Carib.
5.
Poconchi.
10. Tzutohil.
15.
Pokomam.
the Olmecs.
is
(14).
Of the Mije
The. Carib-
that I
but
were peo-
so formi-
GUATEMALA.
272
sea,
now
called,
from
their supposed
chose their
to
but seldom
the sea.
and
corruption
The
name, Caribbean.
the
oppro-
" cannibal."
term
brious
from
Caribal
of
we have
that
it is
limit
fare or not,
clear
is
by no means
and
no
stouter
oppo-
they
find.
are
tribes
Two
distinct
generally
in-
yellow: the
straight
black
latter
hair;
with
but
Woman.
at
intruder)
and
tlie
African slaves
from
who
Vincent to Eoatan,
coast of Honduras,
one
of the
Bay
THE OLDEN
IN
the mainland
Belize to
TIME.
273
villages
negro type
of
powerful limbs,
is
good
as well as
To one who
men.
ward resemblance
is
stature, firm,
women
from the
woolly
to the negro
is
is less
The hair
mouth not so
marked.
and the
feet
The heel
is
not so projecting,
human form
rather than to
the public.
Almost
all
seldom
using the
more familiar
own language
still
other.
Several
the
list
if
any, between the speech of the yellow and the black tribes.
disagreeable sound,
frequent,
ing
it
very
difficult for
perhaps by con-
is
Add
speak
GUATEMALA.
274
To
important.
man
illustrate,
Man.
Woman.
Father
yuraaan
nucuxili
Mother
Sou
Daughter
House
ixanum
macu, imulu
nirajo
niananti
nirajo
tubana
tujonoco
Earth
nonum
cati
Brother
ibuguia
The
water
"
alone
it
Kimoi, "
Lord
(?)
traveller
"
nucuxum
let
"
us go
know,"
me
"
Mawer,
pronounced
with a
beyond
Talkative
them
camp
in
it
difficult
is
when
of themselves,
love
Superstitious
easily disturbed.
human
was the
victim.
cross on the
with
they
self-
to
;
an extreme,
but there
sacrifices in
are
which a child
Caribs, I
treated,
and their
well
quiet
to
Good-natured
work.
day's
measure,
devils.
When
an unfinished
of
becalmed in a dory
And
edly,
if
the
the
saint
next
did
not
blow when
proceeding was
to
asked
make a
"
!
repeatcross
of
IN
sticks
and tow
reading
the
general
are
met
less
Prayer
Lord's
The worship
a breeze.
is
astern
it
of
275
backwards,
Mafia (the
usually
devil)
musical
raised
I believe
it.
Caribs
I
have
Some
two
days.
Indian
Of
all
Women, Pocomam
Tribe.
In Guatemala
many
it
is
It is the
language of
GUATEMALA.
276
CZ5
H
W
-3
o
P5
<1
IN
and Tzutohiles,
may
see
The reader
by the table
the similarity of
277
of
words
certain
common words
in
sixteen of
these dialects.
interest to the
Quirigua,
Maya language
monuments
interpreted, this
is
Usu-
of the
is
and
the
of Tikal,
Copan,
this race,
and
if
The extant
what the
Vuh
"
Are u xe oher
u
is
tzili
like
varal Quichbe
This
is
of those
the
who were
land that
of
bi.
vi oher tzili,
Would my
original language
is
formerly in the
called (Quiche.
ronoliel
xbau
Uspantan has a
the
Cakchiquel
little
dialect
language we
''
all
have
to
itself
most
(4).
Of
interest-
GUATEMALA.
278
importance to the
creation
the
of
Quiche narrative
Popul Vuh."
''
was
as
copied,
is
In
the
it
natural,
account
from the
is
continues
it
to 1597.
The Tzutohiles
(10),
who,
will be
it
are
still
of
the
same
spirit
remembered, were
women shook
their
fists
their opposition.
The
Ixils
(1)
dwell in
Sierras west of
the
Coban,
Mames (2) are found at San Marcos, Chiand Huehuetenango, all westward to Socouusco
and south to Ocos. The Aguacateca (3) occupies a small
space north of Utatlan, and the vocabulary given by
and the
antla,
differs entirely
Stoll
quoted.
capa,
Chorti (16)
from that
is
some
of
is
the
language of
The
Dr.
them.
personality of these tribes
Stoll's
learned
treatise
is
and
my own
knowledge
IN
of
their
appearance and
ited to lead
noticed
me
way
to venture
to
else
of
279
thought
fill
is
the void.
speaks
of,
too
I
the
lim-
have
sober
bearing of
ten
the
seen the
but I have
of-
de cargo brighten
as
Guatemaltecan Indios
face
of
my mozo
mourning expression
is
worn much
as civilized ladies
GUATEMALA.
280
wear
their black,
to save themselves
Many
of the
men
trouble.
It is
trust.
I believe
them
to
population.
CHAPTER
X.
FOR
Every
most
the
perpetrators.
thirst
for
brought
terribly
wealth
the
this
mismanagement
but
re-
upon
The
that
foreigners
them
still,
resistance to
wrongs un-
does
not
seem to
Arms
of
Guatemala.
re-
it
now
was " spoiling the Egyptians " and although Las Casas and some of the missionaries tried faithfully to protect their flock, and although
the King of Spain made decrees, the powers of evil
prey,
it
GUATEMALA.
282
We
tadores
were
but
little
tliat
by the Conquis-
of the
most
selfish
and narrow
kind.
to try her
hand
ment
of the interior,
mountain region
of other nations.
provided were
means
and
The
on the northern
jugation
bear
fruit.
frontier,
who were
began to
own
flocks,
but
grew
well.
283
became too
mentation.
fer-
Lempira
in
Now
Not
it
it
inevitable har-
and
first
tyranny.
mentos
The
selfishness
little 2>^^onuncia-
false
others
terrific
his neighbor.
No
and no
man
was as much owing to the supineness of Spain as to any forceful act on the part of the
provinces.
We have here no war of freedom, no Washington, no Bolivar.
Sporadic murmurs were heard now
and again they came to the ears of the people and set a
slow,
and at
last
few men
to thinking
until in
the
number
GUATEMALA.
284
much
as a disappointed politi-
camp
of its
Guatemala.
September 15, in
acquiesced
American
in
Spain
seems
colonies
but
mismanagement had
it
may
left little
be
of
to
have
her fair
Three centuries of abasement had been a most inopportune school for the freedom of a republic, and one cannot
be surprised that the change was no easy one, or that the
results
the patriots
Subjectively,
all
that
command.
left
for
means
of
intercourse, that
in
town
fell off,
and the
little traffic
now
made
The
clergy,
Government
of the present
all
the revenues
and uneasy.
turbulent,
and not
Is
it
all
much
To
Democratic.
who
them
called,
Liljeral,
or
clergy,
who with
these
and a few
who from
satisfied
bitterly
resisted
personal
or
religious
any innovation,
who
of
this
and
standard also
who
these
all
any attack
To the
Liberals
men
but
were
feelings
:
esj^ecially
Church.
the
of the lower
fallen,
Central, or Servile, as
classes,
to
reason
rallied oppos-
came
or
the
around which
the Conservative,
was variously
lies,
parties,
it
285
of intellect,
their
country,
which the
in their eagerness to
local
who
there
l^ut
who saw
and who
Church had
class,
it
will
perhaps be a
If
the Indios
of
Guatemala had not been the most peaceable and lawabiding of their kind
known
to history, they
might have
GUATEMALA.
286
upon
As
their ancestors.
it
all
With no
dom
of
Guatemala cut
from Spain.
adrift
At one time
all,
Mexican throne
and at
last,
on the
met
supposed,
influence,
many
propositions, in which, as
might
it
is
mob
fiend-like
and
it
was done
name
in the
women.
man
of
clung
religion.
an army
abso-
to restore order,
and on March
16,
1827, attacked the capital; but these troops of the Liberal party
for
two years a
bar-
to
now
After a battle
Guatemala
and
last-
banished the leaders of the Central party, and suppressed the convents.
287
government.
foreigner
Morazan's administration
vahie of
is
get
to
It
man
character,
enough
to
enemy
and while
in
it
control
the
his
to
there
it,
was
mean time an
In the
young
Carrera,
disturbed
defeats
as
condition
at
of
his
country,
the
Rafael
last
drove
end (1839).
Carrera favored
the Church
party, but
knew how
gracefully.
to use
In
all
it,
John
so the State
much
party had
He
rule him.
a condition
Church
real
power
few years.
L. Stephens,
left
It
of his travels
was published
nena.
From
his parentage.
is
indication of
GUATEMALA.
288
power,
and
most
Fundador de
to
is
it
distinguished
this
the Republic),
la
is
Repuhlica de
the
title
reign
the word
that
Carrera,
Guatemcda (Founder
of
Carrera.
his administration
is
traveller
due.
Rafael
Guatemala during
is
used intentionally
he was
able to
designate his successor and die in his bed, while his chief
antagonist, Morazan, after a most persevering struggle
was shot by
The tomb of Carrera is
Guatemala City.
grateful
countrymen.
metropolitan church in
his un-
in the
On
289
power over the Indios that Carrera held, and before his
term of office had half passed, disturbances broke out on
the northern frontier, where a
gang
collected a
pressed,
man named
Barrios had
of outlaws.
;
he however
left
a successor
a guerilla
war from
distilleries of
who
mountain
his
for
man, but
enemy on the
less disturbing
Joined
was a no-
of
Cerna was
in
re-elected.
Rufino Barrios
approached the
state,
expecting
pillage
The
city
not destruction,
if
rebel
army
when
the
GUATEMALA.
290
The
fifty cents.
was over
rebellion
and
to his enemies,
Guatemala.
men
Banished
was no exception.
satisfaction with
Granados
dis-
The march from Mexican territory was almost a triumphal procession, and on the plain between Quezaltenango
and Totonicapan (the Esdraelon of Guatemala) the decisive battle was fought.
Cerna could not trust his geneand
rals,
so took
battle
in
to
submit
and
village
after
making a
final stand at
to
conquerors,
while
he
Honduras.
On
"Army
of Liberators" en-
pro
tein][)ore.
No wonder
291
man
soon to become
reforms were
proclaimed,
of
as
politics.
freedom of
the
aguardiente.
September,
in
1872,
the
republic
inciting
for
insurrection
Santa
at
Rosa.
On June
General
1871,
30,
J.
began to make
real progress.
American
the
Barrios,
He
States, so that
union of
all
there
the
when
States,
all
the Central
cherished
scheme of
progress
in
the ten
years of his
have made
in half a century.
the
republic
under
Barrios,
confiscation
9,
of
certain
important acts
as the adoption of a
Consti-
much Church
property and
its
appro-
GUATEMALA.
292
and government
hotels
have
acts
advanced
it
offices,
am
of religion, or
undervalue the
offices
branch
of the
would not
Rome whom
their energies
Central America,
to
would be
it
well.
It cannot,
called the
The evidences
prove.
of
men
for
any
could ap-
church
some itinerant
edifices
enough
priest.
left to
splen-
the minis-
The
power
legislative
is
in the
Asamblea Nacional
of
and
although
its
it
necessary.
lic is
may
Owing
month
if
legislatures
of
the Asamblea
is
of the courts;
greatly lightened.
The
who compose
elected for a
two
To
years.
State
Each
number.
293
is
changed every
make formal
The President
of
Guatemala
two persons
to succeed
him
elected
is
by direct popular
elects
in
was elected.
republic, Guatemala
President.
Relaciones Exteriores
....
....
Gobernacion i Justicia
Hacienda y Credito Publico
Guerra
Fomento
Instruccion Publica
These
of State.
is
Secretaries of State
.
still
officials,
the
following
Foreign Affairs.
Government and
Justice.
Treasury.
War.
....
Interior.
Public Instruction.
eleven
cities
towns
(villas),
two
hundred and ninety-nine villages (pueblos), fourteen hundred and six settlements (aldeas), fifty-nine shore hamlets
(caserios
litorales),
and
three
thousand
seven
294
GUATEMALA.
Departments.
who
295
legislatiA^e function, as
under the
common
law.
is
of the
Roman
Catholic form
bids
acts
subversive
of
public
order,
or which
or political obligations.^
is,
I believe,
dust and
community.
seems
women and
monuments
It
by the dying.
religious
might
Notwith-
of a departed worship.
to
dead, are
1 " Art. 24. El ejercicio de todas las religiones, sin preeminencia alguna,
queda garantizado en el interior de los templos; pero ese libre ejercicio no
la paz
obligaciones civiles
jioliticas."
296
GUATEMALA.
may
purer religion
and
the
call
Guatemaltecan children of
the
life
and
courage.
It
all
difficult
of
life
Guatemala
to obtain the
statistics of
and
is
fifty-three
army numbers
with eighty
file,
other
officers,
jefes
but
is
exact
it
is
twenty-five hun-
eighteen and
Under
amounted
fifty,
control of the
street-lighting,
it
is
cost so
some
people,
May
the time
when
shall
throw
soon come
off the
While
much
it
is
in propor-
apart from
the bad
life,
this
American
in
War Department
beautiful republic
all
her energies
to^
stone of a republic,
public
instruction.
On
Dec. 13,
tary education.
Under
this in
and
liteness.^
and po-
escritura
moral y iirbanidad."
297
branches (complementary).
fifty
and forty
sixteen
for girls,
thirty-six
hundred
;
mixed,
a Sunday-
workmen, one also for women, and nine comThe attendance at these schools
was 39,642 pupils, 27,974 males and 11,668 females;
there were 735 male teachers, and 302 female teachers,
school for
plementary schools.
all
New England
school-committee men,
have had
experience of both.
Teachers' institutes are held in three places each year
in
gather what
responsible
these
or interest
may
and
teachers
I believe there
to
keep
well
is
up
a general care
to
and
be provided for
As
them.
new matter
to attend
the
it
is
among
requirements.
many Northern
the aim
is
cities,
if
an elemen-
circumstances permit,
GUATEMALA.
298
There are also
fifty-five
pupils costing
$4,944.
The secondary
instruction
is
Hombres,
the
in the City of
The spacious
accommodate the physical and chemical
Guatemala.
formerly church
buildings,
property, well
the meteorological
laboratories,
is
observatory (the
most
is
lecture-rooms,
while within
the
commodious dormitories
pro-
The corps
and twenty-
fifty-three boarders,
The
found
it
to that of
Boston.
The
girls
are
pupils,
many
and
respects
common
in
made
to
train
the
female
in-
matrimony and maternity the unwho are subjected to such training. The
fortunate girls
is
299
pupils, costing
kindergarten
is
attached
to this school.
In Chiquimula
is
one
this
director,
twenty-one pupils.
is
girls,
the North
lic
is
education,
is
and
Each
branch,
while
the
a council
four
the
to the nation.
seventy
sole
directivas)
administration
at a cost of $24,903.96
The law claims forty-two pupils; medengineering, eleven and literature, ten.
Special
instruction
also
the
in
charge of the
{juntas
directories
charged with
icine,
who have
courses
form
phi-
capital
does
not
seven
stop
schools,
here,
for
costing
there
are
$21,762.24,
GUATEMALA.
300
in the
66 pupils.
Commerce
50
"
Design
62
^'
55
"
The Poly-
technic School
is
pupils.
It
is
While
am
illustrated
if
with the
not convey to
sults
my
Guatemala,
may
my
cities
in the North,
me
to
and
mv
examine the
which
me
if
it
have examined
both
fault of schools or
public
the North.
cramming
and private
all
so
girls,
much
in
but never
vogue at
301
weak-eyed boys that form so large a minority of the pubI am sure that if fewer
lic-school children at home.
" branches " are taught here, less ill-health results
am
and
mere book-
learning.
Gaceta
and "
La
La Semana," both proceeding from one pen,
official
of the Sociedad
Now
Economica.
contracts,
all
there
and the
list
'^
official
official
public grants or
La Estrella de Guatemala,"
an independent daily
La
Gaceta de los Tribunales," twice a month " La Gaceta de
los Hospitales," monthly; "El Horizonte " and "El Engance or improper favoritism.
;
nango
publication.
twice a
In Quezalte-
a well-written twice-a-week
In Mazatenango " El Eco de los Altos,"
month;
in
is
session of
cannot say
much about
although not for the reason that made the chapter "
Serpents "
in the History of
national library
is
Norway
so famous.
On
The
manu-
GUATEMALA.
302
script
rulers
are
now
in foreign
and the
find.
and
Amer-
found only in
private libraries.
Itza "
was held
by the
Government.
The debt
of
Guatemala
is
made up
An English
came responsible
in
the
days
of
the
$554,268.83
Confederation
An
It is
English loan of
1SG9
(by President
3,599,771.75
Cerna)
Government bonds
in circulation
(Interior
1,663,906.61
debt)
$5,817,947.19
is
between
fifty-five
The income
The average
was
303
Direct Taxes.
39^ on
real estate
Road tax
$103,886.05
....
....
Military tax
Abated taxes
34,830.85
13,925.17
4,132.56
$156,224.63
Indirect Taxes.
Duties on imports
1,698,469.93
Duties on exports
66,685.36
Harbor dues
Stamped paper and stamps
Impost on native flour
Impost on salt
Impost on legacies
.
Beneflcio de Reses
3,960.22
114,221.57
47,198.19
27,454.58
11,514.06
99,964.59
53,530.42
2,122,998.92
Tax
Tax
Tax
Tax
for municipios
$10,127.87
10,678.62
113,296.13
for hospitals
119,507.26
Telegraphs
....
Mails
Mint
Fondos
55,575.96
25,687.95
19,518.51
6,513.19
judiciales
360,905.49
Excise on liquors
Excise on tobacco
Excise
$1,266,042.43
346,263.15
on gunpowder and
saltpetre
23,994.31
1,636,299.89
Various income
135,457.44
2,030,033.01
^6,441,919.38
the
it
will be seen
fiscal
GUATEMALA.
304
Expenses of Administration.
Department
"
"
"
"
"
of the Interior
$167,349.25
208,872.45
....
.
1,164,521.37
723,746.93
252,891.62
80,850.11
$2,598,231.73
General Expenses.
Collecting direct taxes
"
Excise on liquors
"
indirect taxes
" tobacco
Higher instruction
$6,962.01
32,410.52
126,031.04
....
....
96,289.65
25,418.55
15,704.77
Municipios
45,053.54
42,725.16
Mails
101,288.61
Telegraphs
Mint
20,539.59
2,986.76
Mobiliario
Hospitals
136,794.20
Police
148,128.12
581.52
Confiscations
6,033.37
Jiidiciar}'
'
Extraordinaiy
Gunpowder and
saltpetre
6,606.92
2,960.64
816,514.97
Interest
....
" gunpowder
....
Purchase of tobacco
"
and
99,342.05
salt-
petre
Repayments {Devolutiones)
$200,325.81
5,795.70
14,373.07
Public property
6,197.09
Accounts
2,010.24
328,043.96
2,554,076.94
833.33
205,721.45
$6,503,422.38
of figures
305
may
be,
they
tell
the story in the shortest way, and will give to those inter-
work
ested in the
mala anticipates
from import
the
method
income
duties.
into its
taxes, borrows,
Its chief
tions.
of a
many
Like
methods.
and
from the
is
and
may
and
was
difficult
of
$50,000
what they
just
matter to
The currency
of about
Guatemala
of
public,
coin,
meet
its
is
therefore
American
gold.
To
house in pawn
its
subsi-
or even longer.
is
money-lenders
dies
is silver,
are, it
face in gold
its
If the ports
would be a
the revenue from imports.
collect
say
but
told
very
premium on smuggling,
and
liquor
sale of
Even the
orders on the
heavy import
is
largely
mail-subsidies
customs.
embark in
dependent on Government
when
This,
foreign capital
to
investment of
fifty
much
lightened by
GUATEMALA.
306
them
which
do not think
it
By
this
and similar
practices,
two,
''
Columbiano," are
third
is
in
in
of
Quezaltenango.
banks of
and exchange.
circulation, deposit,
is
of
The usual
The Banco
its
In-
capital
cities.
Many
of the
Piers
(Compania de
los
landing
immense, as
facilities
it
That
its
profits are
The
the
all
railroads
perico
it is
street railway in
Guatemala has a
The
capital of $200,000.
307
The expenditures
be nearly twice the amount of the
seventy
offices.
of this
bureau seem to
receipts,
owing
to the rapid
growth of
tropical vegetation
and
is
2^cigcido).
By
cable
Guatemala
The mail
service
is
very great.
As a
development of
the country since 1871 under the administration of President Barrios, the great increase in the
sent through the mails
number
total
reach
letters,
be cited
papers,
amount
of matter
and
fifty
millions.
of
may
circulars
it
did not
exceeded three
guished
men
to be spit
this republic,
with
rough treatment.^
^ A new series of stamps was issued in 1886; and it is reported that they
were furnished to the Government free of cost by a private individual, who
asked as his only compensation the entire lot of stamps of the old issue then.
GUATEMALA.
308
What
a people imports
moment
is
in
amining the
which
classified list
official publications,
and on ex-
facts.
First a large
flavor
of one
hundred per
duction.
wheat, and
wheat
flour, for
ported
is
people.
The
little
Few
an idea
worthy
is
wax,
wanting.
we must
and
of white
pro-
is
vate enterprise
home
of attention.
mala,
and go
of imports
it is still
by countries.
Nearer
....
Oils (vegetable)
$14,839.45
Aguardiente
1884.
Duties.
$14,128.30
35,124.70
43,694.75
1,607,362.34
1,594,750.48
Firearms
1,758.00
2,435.00
Shoes
3,697.42
3,926.28
20,845.00
20,194.45
2,600.00
1,575.00
$1,686,226.91
$1,680,710.26
Cinnamon
Carriages
Carried forward
on hand.
....
Drofit
on
basis,
his venture.
and
and no
1,686,226.91
Barle3'
White wax
Beer
Preserves
Glass
Money
Sundry
Drugs
articles
Stearine, crude,
Matches
Flour
and candles
Instruments,
1,680,710.26
4,386.20
438.62
3,122.50
2,982.20
29,856.20
30,267.96
47,539.87
41,851.68
10,725.63
8,397.56
82,932.00
309
free
11,375.40
11,594.34
21,462.94
22,794.77
14,798.15
11,563.22
7,235.76
7,359.43
118,490.00
139,082.10
85,852.25
99,637.37
agriculture,
2,728.80
272.88
146,294.34
159,381.69
12,627.50
1,252.75
5,386.65
5,893.49
11,743.17
11,236.54
15,490.86
14,129.36
35,594.00
free
48,475.70
4,847.57
Medicines
52,952.85
54,326.68
Hardware
23,738.46
21,954.95
1,143.50
1,865.46
Wooden
Articles
furniture
for
institutions
of
Paper
Perfumery
Petroleum and naphtha
Pianos
Tanned
leather
Prenderia fina
....
.
Clocks
Empty bags
10,837.94
free
41,694.37
29,358.39
5,873.65
6,034.26
14,764.00
8.439.30
10,950.00
6,470.00
56,863.84
31,263.10
19,145.00
1,914.50
24,678.26
21,245.84
3,956.00
786.55
25,384.83
free
".
Salt
Silk thread
and cloth
Saddles
Carried forward
4,122.30
12.778.56
102,835.72
116,936.29
946.25
1,082.00
62,802,231.80
$2,568,149.67
GUATEMALA.
310
Brought forward
Hats of
all
kinds
$2,802,231.80
$2,568,149.67
23,751.68
24,369.35
....
pumps
Wheat
Railroad supplies
18,462.70
1,536.91
60,128.51
28,362.68
328,426.37
Wine
free
48,697.40
52,165.24
$3,281,698.46
$2,674,583.85
IMPORTED IN
1884
FROM
England
France
$1,735,954.87
450,365.75
CALIFORNIA
391,782.50
Germany
170,824.35
NEW ORLEANS
NEW YORK
103,548.24
98,296.18
Switzerland
75,173.61
Spain
69,387.49
Italy
51,632.60
China
Belgium
29,781.25
48,594.32
28,937.48
Central America
United
vStates
14,569.77
of Columbia
10,314.05
Chile
2,536.00
^3,281,698.46
New
York
From
New
fire-
of
were imported,
at $593,626.92
of
what England
sends.
Yankee
commerce.
which
311
which an
intelligent reader
may
inter-
The
man
Americans
of the
When
it
was
New England
its cloths
were
usually packed for market could not be handled in a country provided only with mule transportation, the
agent thought
bales,
it
Ready-made
the
did
as
manufacturers.
Germany and
Yankee
France.
If I
and shoes
for
in
my
my
tramways,
York.
nies,
colo-
sorts are
needed for the trade with tropical America; she buys the
crop of mahogany, logwood, and coffee, and saves exchange
by
selling her
ports her
own
own
these countries
and
is
for
If it
were not
line of steamers
on the Pacific
side
between
Guatemala is merely
Now
United States.
let
and
GUATEMALA.
312
for
two
former
now
exported
is
insignificant
may
fell
owing
low
Of the
off,
to a short crop
be noted.
TABLE OF EXPORTS.
But
as
all
it
313
and to develop it the country must posand the opportunity of marketing them.
were.
establish
without a wise
government, the resources of the country cannot be developed to yield a proper income.
interdependent.
and protect
means
creased wealth
grow
In-
larger revenue,
;
together.
Possessed of a remarkably
climate, a
fine
favorable
to undertake
Money must
there-
which are
offers to
than in mines
That
this offer
too attractive,
it
must
are remote
from
part
with dense
great expense.
virgin soil
is
ports,
They are
communication.
forests,
Besides,
it
also
to
is
known
that whenever
not dangerous to
men
of
soil
and although
good constitution,
GUATEMALA.
314
Not only
and
enterprise
own
is
his
and
carts.
day's labor
from
o'clock to
two
for rest
to six at night,
eleven
and
roads,
morning
own
make
Labor
own
is
fifty
cents.
good,
fully the
prices, as
present demand.
Articles of food are cheap,
given
good
size,
follows
Interior, are as
beef, pork,
fowls of
sixty-two
cents
rice,
five
pounds)
flour, eight to
hundred pounds)
fanega
maiz, a
hundred ears)
dollars
black,
or
dollar
cheese,
red,
twelve
(four
four to
to
six
dollars
itself
in
to
beans,
a quintal
three
white,
eggs, a
twenty-five
cents
pound
its
instalment,
is
butter,
Guatemaltecan cookery,
though simplicity
and a half
al-
excellent
(I
ing of
New
England.
But
let
the
comida consist of
and huevos
frijoles,
tortillas,
315
these
staples
are
little to
and
Guatemala has
arts
this in
On
work
for not a
workman.
offer the
There are no
made
New
Orleans.
Glass,
porcelain,
is
San Francisco or
in
and stoneware
is
all
im-
sheet
is
France.
that used
imported,
for
oils
that
large
is
but every
is
castor-lDcan,
no commercial
dollars'
imported in 1884.
of
Guatemala
is
remarkably
intervention
endangering
the
hot
of
many
vultures and
dogs to remove
health-
filth.
lowlands
whooping-cough,
human
of
the
measles,
Pacific
and
coast
small-pox
in
1883,
prevailed
The consumption
and
in
of patent
GUATEMALA.
316
population.
Vital
is
enormous
statistics
in
are not
obtained with the greatest accuracy, and only the constant care of the superior officer enables
cember 31
Years.
result
worthy
of attention to be obtained.
erably accurate.
any
ten victims
is
317
numbering over
list of all
Consumption
Fever (perniciosa)
Dyseuteiy
75
74
68
Entero-colitis
63
Yellow fever
52
Enteritis
42
33
24
Pneumonia
Alcoholism
Small-pox
18
Cachexia paludica
18
Typhoid fever
11
Of the consumptive
majority
Guatemala
and
in the
was not
of
tendency.
I wish I could say
more
would be sup-
it
are, if report
may
be trusted (they
the
tumor).
too short
to
invite
to possess
and
my
to
stay
their confidence.
much knowledge
of
From
the bodily
ills
and
it is
interesting to note
what are
most frequently
allotted.
GUATEMALA.
318
and 3,178
of crimes {delitos).
Of the former
crim-
quarter.
thousand
inhabitants
that
notwithstanding the
many more
convicts
Crimes or Delitos.
me
Misdemeanors or
to suppress.
faltas.
319
GUATEMALA.
320
hard labor
is
a proportion
large
that as
crimes
of
I believe also
detected and
is
would be unfair
scenes in the
life
of the
Guatemaltecan republic
but I
whispers indeed
that
Distin-
me
Government.
them
in
if
ruption.
of injustice
and
really
was
might
result in their
official
cor-
opinions political
republics.
Barillas,
On
it is
dislikes
will
lead
in
these Southern
were released from the prisons where they had been im-
321
wisdom, or cunning of the members of our Northern legislatures, who remain in session an
officials
skill,
The Government
results.
name
Guatemala
republican in
is
much
irre-
sponsible
this
of
show scant
litical necessity of
As
there
is
suit,
no
With
and among
ceal
the
who
feelings
welcome foreign-
really
is
little
attempt to conwith
which
of the
jealousy
of
there
officials,
or
distrust
now
that Barrios
who
either
is
no more, who
by openly taking
The popular
is
mala
at
the
head
means no extension
this
of
for-
Many
to
indications point to
an attempt
and
it is
GUATEMALA.
322
may
It
of
little) of all
in the attempt.
Central America
may
and he
turbance.
If
Mexico
a very
dis-
could be
left
out,
it
possible to unite
would not
alliance
If
the
it
is
as safe under
American country.
States
guard the
will
it
is
tions
At
present
we have
to trust
and the
Government.
favorable
inclinations
of
the
existing
CHAPTER
XI.
^'P'ROPICAL
the
fact
derstand, need
general
The
features.
inadequacy
of
it
real
threshold
to
that
tropics
language
English
the
trouble
the
of
to
but
to
un-
sketch
the
meets
the
hard
is
on the
novice
is
the
utter
express
the
Even
in
include
in
the
name
so
many
and he must
distinct
tints
readily
divide
regions
tinct
moun-
vegetation
into
four
will
tolerably
dis-
On
all
the
[Rhizojjhora
look not at
7nangle),
all
giving
attractive.
the
landscape
forbidding
landing
on
the
shores.
In
their
GUATEMALA.
324
branches
are
bromeliads,
orchids,
and
showy
other
low bush
rises
The presence
haunt
of the
indication
grounds
mangroves
of
when
for
is
unreason
suited
considered
an
admirably
shore
equal
of
usually
is
which with
coconuts,
for
away, the
cleared
token of a
as
salubrious climate.
As we
and bambus
the gaps
fill
until at last
mangroves have
And now
no one, or two, or
Two
the
of attractive
form and
region
ground
is
but
man
where
interfered,
river
species
six
soil.
presents
among
size,
its
has not
both trees
The unspoiled
wonderful
forest of the
variety
above the
From
as
the
paullinia
[Smi-
every side
observer
the
puzzled
sees
different
trees.
and
their leaves
the ground.
some sixty
From a mountain
feet or
more above
like
325
plain,
sm^face
its
here
is
ents.
mulatto, cacao,
de
figs,^
are all here, and the palms, from the noble cohune to
among
yellow
brilliant
tamarind (Schizolobium),
the wild
of
plentifully scattered
here
is
who
beneath these
is
color
all this
All veo;etation
trees.
There
composite.
is
it
invisi-
is
Every trunk
like
is
but a
trellis
for
some
vines,
the
on
own stems.
must make sure
their
blossom, I
self,
have seen
enough
stock a
hothouse.
plants
in
the ground,
the
but
trees
orchids
quite as
hollow of a branch, or
slender,
of
is
it
the
inistletoe-like
bearing;
in
the
tree
it-
hanger-on.
plants
to
tropics.
that
up
branch in
find
If
some
of
sino-le
branches
of
them,
of
in
innocent-looking
This vine
often
among
either
vine,
may
start
from
it
germinates in the
the
other parasites of
case
it
clinging
is
at
first
timidly to the
1 These are not the edible fi.^s, liut many varieties of the fig family that
form an important food for monkeys and birds. In the latter part of this
book 1 have given a list of the more important trees of this forest region.
326
tree for support
GUATEMALA.
and protection.
Matapalo Tree.
and
its
327
and
splitting the
so that
it
main stem
into
has pre-
it
many
numerous
a guy
buttresses,
a very remarkable
and
tree,
we
long
but
it
must be
treasures
its
w^ould
left, for
many volumes
fill
could linger
a scientific description of
the
of
this,
rial
needed.
months
Any
who would
botanist
size
of
the mate-
devote
three
ests
of
dred
new
species to the
of
flora
than a hun-
less
also
and here
tion,
hills
in the
that
is,
common
in the cooler
during two winter months in the Department of Izabal, five hundred species of plants, many of them new to science (Proceedings of the American
Academy
of Arts
and Sciences,
He
456
Notes of some
than twenty-
et seq.).
collected
no
less
names
in.
list
of the
woods under
it
will
little
Rosewood is
not connected botanicallj^, and
their local
be of
GUATEMALA.
328
in the dryer
a,lmost disappears
is
soil,
and that
is
not
to
ground
and
Oaks
is
soil,
Agaves
place
of
changes of
watered.
comprises the
It
where the
is
temperature
diurnal
soil,
though
considerable,
are
the
and
rich, is
{Acacia spadicifera)
gum
arable,
coarse
Avhile
grass
and Orchid,
tractive
presenting
known
species
and
of
at-
means devoid
Chief
numerous
Palm
of
commercial importance.
among palms
also
as
manaca and
its
is
When
enormous leaves
corozo.
feet.
The
rising
from the
rhachis, or midrib, of
young, the
saw
in British
Honduras
feet in breadth.
and eight
of the
and
five
manaca
as
wide
it is
manaca
rises,
state,
but
tliis is
not an
uncommon
329
size
and as
elongate,
it
is
The
leaf-stems
Nature.
This palm
to fruit.
The male
is
fulfil
now known
inflorescence
economy
in the
and begins
as corozo,
an immense mass
is
of
of
more than thirty thousand staminate flowers in a compound raceme between four and five feet long these have
a heavy, not disagreeable odor, and attract a great many
bees and wasps, so that on one occasion the mozo who
;
me
badly stung.
great
deal
of
shaking that
the
The
pollen,
would
fill
roll, is in
fifty
for
outside,
child.
such abundance
The
a pint measure.
on the
spathe, or cover of
is
deeply furrowed
The
fertile
which
is
five to ten
hundred to a thousand
half inches long,
nuts.
fibrous
husk and so
GUATEMALA.
330
Attalea Cohune.
A Staminate blossoms.
C CImter of unripe nuts.
D Transverse section of n%U.
B Stem of same.
E Longitxulinal section of nut.
palm two
fruit is
up the struggle
But
for
CHOC UN PALMS.
life,
so in the coliune
Professor
abortive cells
may
have never,
cell.
and
331
is
clearly shown,
be seen.
The
and
in the
in
latter.^
It
is
not
more
the
of
older, the
tractable
coconut.
crown
of leaves at the
summit.
much used
armed with
Jiime),
spines, bears
nor
is it
of the leaf
{Euteiye edidis)
is
common
is
in the
cab-
upper
is
The
unexpanded
flower-
sale in the
Mr. Coffin, the hospitable magistrate at Punta Gorda, gave me some of the
and in the limited experiments I have tried with it, its properties much
best oil
GUATEMALA.
332
it is
On
rather insipid.
In
sclerocarjM flourishes
stem
its
like
is,
the
Acrocomia vinifera
Motagua.
the
valley of
also
common
is
in the
Along the
river-
common and
very
explorer
but
it
may
qualities
bad
It is generally
ist.
is
the
foliage
of
earlier,
is
form.
This
is
months
old
when
but
puts
it
first
off
the palm
the
at
the
midrib,
end
mere lengthening
into
claws
to
the
l#
show how
leaflets,
blades,
in the pinnate
does not
of
a few
is
this is
Here
done
leaflets
the
aid
is
limp
a leaf-
the ribs of
Climbing Palm
the
stiffly
The
leaf
can push
Calamus rotang)
(
333
The rattan-palm
in a similar
useful
in
for
clumps of
celled,
(
more.
Cocos nucifera)
though we
is
too well
globular
diameter.
in
known
Of the other
fifty
or
and
identified,
is
sure to turn
if
names
The
;
species of
any useful
known.
more
their local
not necessity
coco
us.
are parasites
as
one-
They
when
The
need description,
to
with eagerness
me.
is
shall
To
The nut
vanilla moreover
for
an
qualities, so far
article of luxury,
so,
a substitute in
some
of
little
In the mountains
is
GUATEMALA.
334
flowers,
orchid are
popularly
ground
ckisters of a
So
decoration.
little
F. planifolid) that I
is
may
lately issued
of Jamaica,
present
Vanilla.
" This
is
of excellent quality.
commerce.
If cuttings are
mined by examination
in the axil or
may
readily be deter-
is
a small growth-bud.
Cut the stem with say three or four joints at one fourth
an inch below the basal node or
of
joint,
against
soil
for instance,
calabash,
or on
low-trellised
frame
the
orchid in
insect
its
which
natural
fertilizes
habitat
it
is
is
if
of
this
This
may
In the flower
flowers
accomplished as follows.
the
is
is
be easily
a central
a detachable
so treated
noon
or about
33b
of
it
opens.
"
To
gather
cure vanilla-beans,
when
steep
full,
for
with sweet
to keep
oil,
tin,
them
them
When
Complete
and plump.
soft
color,
and the
full
fragrance
In
my own
cult properly to
of
the
experience
have found
on the
rainy season
now
and prefer
coast,
generally
very
it
diffi-
damp atmosphere
to
use
coffee,
cacao, etc.
Of the family
gold-fern
of
ferns
(Gymnogramma
little
aurea)
The
a common weed at
need be
is
said.
Mahogany.
From
mahogany
chief)
measurement
woods
of Izabal (Liv-
all
feet,
worth
GUATEMALA.
336
This
$150,000.
is
wood
tagua valley.
immense
of
In British
to
hands
of a
young
trees
grow rapidly
due
nor allow
sell
;
is
in the
and
it is
said
may
The
stumps.
business of mahogany-cutting
made
organized and
republic,
much
the most
the
thoroughly
In the neighboring
of.
the
of
is
from
five
dollars
stumpage.
few
way.
The work
at a
mahogany bank
skilful woodmen.
trees.
is
generally done
The hunter or
and searches for
size
(squaring
from the
"-'bank," a road
is
river.
form, or ''barbecue,"
ground.
The
log
is
is
raised
when
floated to port
the market.
regions.
The
is it
best
trimmed
With
the
mahogany
is
337
odorata),
mahogany)
is
and cayucos.
As an
article of export,
Usumacinta.
It
is
and much
feet high,
mahog-
to
is
and are
difficult to transport.
cistern,
as they are
Sapo-
When
freshly
dilla
(Achras sapota)
hewn,
its color is
loses this
easil}',
is
nearly as heavy.
but
but
is
so
is
soon
it
It splits
woods.
colored,
Ziricote
beautifully veined.
Two
or ocote,
whence
is
common, the
Piniis ciibensis,
have placed
many
in the
maci^oioliylla)
Appendix a
list
of
of
local
names.
GUATEMALA.
338
made
is
Both
dye-stuffs
were
chiefly
and neglected
and uncared-
gradually disappearing.
for, is
Ama-
$7,833.75.
is
$406, in 1884.
It has
my
been
fortune to visit
many
of the tropical
my
permit.
It is
capabilities of
climatic
me would
region,
influences,
situation, side
by
the
side
geographical
and
soil,
the
commercial
draw
Once
lands which
lie
of the Island of
and
verbena,
parched
malvaceous
Ten thousand
above
feet
me
Stunted indigo,
thinly
was cracked
which
soil,
weeds
covered
the
every direction.
in
dome
the vast
rose
339
of
down
and found
it full
of cane.
As
plains
is
its
make
this plain,
earlier deposits
rich lavas.
examined
with
this soil
growth
comprised
in
Government
of
fertile field.
Hawaii
my
The
Government
was concerned.
to Maui I had the pleasure
in part been carried out
of seeing that
by private
parties,
many
my
visit
plan had
and prosper-
millions, occupied
to
other
States
of
Central America,
of
all
common with
the
makes
least use
of
thrown
in her
way.
My
readers
GUATEMALA.
340
in
discussing
the
pardon me, I
trust,
if,
present
outcome
the
soil,
trained
and curbed by an extended experience, sugthe same time what the wonderfully fertile
will
gest
at
lands
Indian
geration,
those not
and
let
my
imagination,
of
While
of
briefly
Plough
Type
Guatemaltecan Agriculture.
of
me
of
fault
this
Sugar-cane.
to be described,
and
It
is
better
deem
of
competition of
cane
bold
assertion
suited
to
tlie
the very
that
by
side
side
of cane
inferior
sugar-beet.
no country or climate
culture
of
of
sugar-cane.
the choicest
is
have
varieties
growth
easily
sugar-cane
which
supply,
artificial
suit,
compared
in Louisiana, the
West
this
with the
Indies, Guiana,
cul-
341
much more
elaborate
be in
At
the
present
sugar-plantations
any importance
of
that
of
interior.
A Primitive Sugar-mill.
plantations,
exported
in
or
ingenios.
From
the
Pacific
sugar, valued
of
is
very great,
raised in the
Department
of
Much
manufacture
is
of the
it
is
cooled in
Chiquimula
is
not exported.
wooden
at
less.
was
The home
and most of that
consumption of sugar
ports
mills,
of maple-
blocks in hemispherical
GUATEMALA.
342
is
called
That
stood,
^:>?ie/(2.
the
I
give
arroha
production
sugar
the
the Government.
equals
when
statistics
finca
is
for
may
be
better
under-
1883, as published by
a plantation
a manzana
less
an
hundred pounds.
343
much
is
The
panela.
amount
of
cultivation
trashing, that
is,
season.
nine feet in as
many months,
replanting,
Much
year.
With
know
no sugar
of
which
fincas in northern
in
is
Guatemala
the exception
have referred,
Guatemala, although
well-known saying
It is a
that "
ical
in this
Wherever mahogany will grow, there every tropand wherever logwood grows,
Cane certainly
no exception to
Coffee.
this rule.
Second
on the
list
from
the world
part of
its
may
be
placed
coffee,
On
ened.
Most
of
difficult to
crop
the
it
exported
is
much
less-
from Livingston
land.
cents)
of
Government
levies
On
this
the
344
GUATEMALA.
coffee
crop,
Departments.
shown
commencing
is
345
fifth
maximum
old
exhausts
Coffee
and
the tenth,
in
the
is
year, attains
in
the
its
thirtieth.
soil
tobacco.
Cacao.
On
choice quality.
tions,
insignificant (1,492
is
in 1884).
lbs.
known
tion
tory.
Throughout the
results in
when the
cultiva-
Guatemalan
probably
repul3lic there is
and
selection of seed
less
terri-
cacao
was current
nib
Like the
coffee-tree,
must be continuous,
for
is
profitable.
cacao-plantation should
much
is
very simple.
The many
varieis
pre-
which
reference
valleys
of
the
been made.
has
Polochic,
Cacao:
How
to
the
in
Jamaica Government.
Plantations
to cure
have seen
generally,
not
It
is
it.
if
GUATEMALA.
346
always, flavored
beverage
is
with
froth.
India-riibber.
grows wild in
Like
all
E Ovary, vertical.
F Ovary transverse.
G Pod section.
H Ripe pod.
Castilloa
elastica
of
this
very
gum hi
Now,
what
as formerly,
347
am
tempted to
"
On
which
Compendio de
1818.
la Historia
de la Ciudad de Guatemala,
t.
2,
p.
95, ed.
GUATEMALA.
348
The
castilloa rubber-tree is
chouc, or the
gummy
at present,
gatherers,
who
trees
The milk
its
is
obtained
is
Toonu
is
after
fruit,
and
The flow
milk,
inhabited by the
some months
fit
substance produced by
The rubber-gatherers
commence operations on an untapped tree by reaching
with a ladder, or by means of lianes, the upper portions
of its trunk, and scoring the bark the whole length with
deep cuts, which extend all round. The cuts are sometimes
made
tree
so as to
form a
round the
palm placed
cutlass,
form a
A number
At
The Colony of
British Honduras.
it
by means of water,
p. 76.
it
standing
He now
till
349
pro-
pounds
a bucket of water.
it is
added to the
into a mass,
it
and throws
into
it
milk
rul)ber
in the projoortion of
one
of the
all
is
coagulated.
watery particles."
It
is
have
Alum
is
grown
first
gum
hard and
tapped,
which
is
of
tries to regulate
full-
milk when
law
less elastic.
is
Although the
young
of
trees,
it is
and
ineffect-
{Hevea
vation
hrasiliensis)
;
grows only in
away from
of South
its
America [Maniliot
Glaziovi)
is
not of easy
culti-
many known
to produce rubber,
most
likely
GUATEMALA.
350
now
cannot
gum
civilized nations
ation
The
seed
is
very perishable,
it
and as the
One
Sarsajjcirilla.
or vines,
tic
common
seaboard
all
Probably the
is
American public
compounded
of
is
warm
forests,
The
to be again robbed.
dled,
and
soil,
its
replanting
stolen roots,
up into tight
who have
the fibres
made
rolls,
be found
of the
sarsaparilla exported
and Honduras
custom of trade
more
costly drug.
Most
of the
The plant
is
easily propagated
of
by
from each
plant.
351
New
between
lines of steamers
many
river-banks.
the producer
panies,
bunch
(of
bananas at 50 cents a
his
sells
of the year,
and
for
cost of production
may
The
sham
The
profits of
steamer-companies.
middle-man or the
man
For example, a
the cost to
He
is
raises
him
is
a hun-
$12.50
have
put the price paid the planter at the highest, and the
sales in
New
profits of a single
$40,000.
him
rich.
The
Half
round
it
trip
this shared
is
not
of
loss is insignifi-
uncommon
two weeks
to
for the
exceed
GUATEMALA.
352
If the planting of
must
raise
montli
enough
bananas
say
own
to freight his
is
The
from Liv-
This
is
its
culture and
its
varieties
there
is
much
certainty
but
unthe
in
between
which
it
may be well
to re-
At
pres-
move.
of
Plantains (young).
Boston
York markets.
Botanically,
it
as
fruits,
or
New
difficult to distinguish
is
no one, however,
banana (and
three
these are
is
two hundred,
Chittagong), only two
give
no inducement
no more
to
least
by no means the
people will
all
best
for
but as
the
steamer
a choice variety,
there
Both yellow
and the former sometimes have two hundred and fifty bananas on a bunch,
and
red
grown,
are
varieties
The plantain
when
ripe (I
is
yellow
is
much
Some
than thirty-five
fruits.
of fifteen inches,
Few
qualities
surpasses
stated
them
to eat
either
is
fried.
the
of
banana
and
substance
be
authoritatively
When
the plantain
and
(better
feet
of
but two.
may
it
is
if
dried,
it
fifty per-
will support
will
keep from
fruits,
fig in flavor,
from
baked or
of
tritive
way
while
tile
ripe fruit
and
of
forms a
course free
One hun-
may
The comparative
be thus stated
cost
and
profit of the
two
fruits
GUATEMALA.
354
increase
would be
Of the
tant by-product.
much
the
finer.
is
much
trunks are
no account has
fibre
is
banana (Musa
possible four
pounds of
fibre
way
in the
in
It will be
of cultivation.
thirty-
fair to
inner portion
At present the
each stem
wasted and
in
more than
the banana,
in favor of the
is
the product of a
textilis).
and
more permanent
removed as the
and
this,
its
its
when allowed
native land
it
to attain
trees.
articles of food
public,
in our
fresh plan-
the
Northern States,
though
of easier transport
is
and
already an in-
Heinj:).
The
fibrous plants
at
cultivated
little
home consumption.
The
in
or
^^ito,
silk-grass (^Bi^omelia
'jyita)
355
very com-
is
tracted
stones
running stream
in
name
also called
is
desirable
cords.
Sisal
product makes
but the
most cultivated
is
Yucatan,
in
henequen {Agave
ixtli),
Common
port.
and much
re-
grows
poor
in
dry
and
soil
An American
cuttings.
From Yucatan
used,
little
is
The
$500,000.
easily
ixtli
and the
is
filire,
product
New York
is
pound
is
freight to
a cent and
a half,
and
it
total
charge per
sells for
five
ton.
of
clearly distinguished
Agave Americana,
mented
is
growth
in a stemless condition
called pulque.
from
is
is
propagated by
The
it
it
The plant
after
but two
or maguey,
when
fer-
some years
of
GUATEMALA.
356
The
Mexican
stem before
has
it
and
scooping a large
hol-
The
collect.
sap to
the
for
yield
a vigorous plant
the
from
and
continues
sap
to
is
from two
to three
hundred gallons
agave,
The
must be
it
re-
the
of
The
soil.
leaf
and
is
fibre
very
is
used to
make paper
of the
strong,
The Agave
henequen,
is
ixtli,
larger than
plants
years
old
may be
cut,
or
are
the
When
three
leaves
and a good
to a
hundred
Rice.
annually, the
The contincutting being repeated every four months.
uous fibres in a leaf are sometimes five and a half feet
leaves
long,
The
life
allowed to flower,
may
357
and not
is
finer
As
and stronger
fibre,
come to
market they are often confounded, even by the Indios,
and the term '' pita " is not infrequently applied to the
but
is
these fibres
fibres.
The
bottom-lands
the
of
the
fairly to
how much
determine
be.
rice-mills,
may
method
of
is
pounding
in mortars.
Oranges.
plant
many
to
sand-banks
of
Tlie
on
orange-trees
the
frost-visited
mandarin
of
variety,
which
is
far
inferior
oranges,
which
Florida, are
not
are
generally
first-rate,
and
especially the
flavor,
to
the fruit
superior
in both
to
those
States
an
from
have
acci-
dent which must seriously interfere with the succeeding crop. As a substitute for these unsuitable regions,
GUATEMALA.
358
Guatemala
Polochic,
the
great
offers
quality
the
of
the
uncultivated fruit
any
ally,
At Teleinan, on
advantages.
that
is,
is
than
finer
and
all
the bot-
Lemons do not do so
a cooler climate and must
fruit
requires
be
being
but limes
used
often
On
many
shaddocks,
or
varieties
grow very
Oranges of
well.
or
and yet
it
difficult to ob-
is
who
ordered
all
the orange-
of
was
Honduras,
Coco7iuts.
will
On the
As a
size
fruit
but I
coconut-walks.
Island
for
Roatan.
of
was established
oil
to the
is
359
to prepare either
Prolific
come
bearers,
into bear-
of profit.
month;
so there
stages.
On
are
generally on
a tree nuts in
all
fifty
Of the latter
bly
bear
worth
$9.
that
is
In a walk, however,
The trade
usually
sell
green nuts
in
is
when
When
damp
disappears,
and
completely
filling
is
a good
of course limited
No more
than the
fruits
fully ripe,
the
tree
but they
apiece.
is
piled in a
it
two cents
at the rate of
delicious drink
proba-
hundred
three
soil will
nuts
is
easily
may be
The milk
occupied by a porous mass
place
its
is
through the eye and breaks through the thick husk, the
innocent-looking
the coconut
when
continue
life
on
its
of
own
basis.
The coconut
is
ready to
presents a
all
GUATEMALA.
360
while the
noble
leaves
the
of
pinnate.
the trees
If
are planted
^0,1'^'U^'^
Growth
of a
Young Coconut.
including the land, more than forty dollars until the trees
bear
and
may
expect a crop
which
should
It is a great mis-
it
VEGETABLE AND ANIMAL PRODUCTIONS.
361
is
liable to be
it
then grows
tall
The exports
previous
thus
to
187G
of coconuts
six years
GUATEMALA.
362
per pine, a
first
crop,
Whether
dollars afterwards.
West
the
of
common
in the
mountains
yet
doubtful.
is
is
is
of
less
flavor, is
Nutmegs.
While
soil
and
The nutmeg
requires at least eighty inches of rainfall per annum,
begins to bear when eight or ten years old, and improves
for a century.
The first few years the yield is from one
to five thousand nuts, of from sixty-eight to one hundred
and twenty to tlie pound. In the Botanic Gardens, Triniclimate are admirably suited to this tree.
to three
the
hundred and
mace
is
fifty dollars
per acre.
The value
of
additional.
the
Island
of
Trinidad,
trees
planted
1,600 X
.30
= 48,000 nutmegs
we
to the acre.
Averaging the
Considering the
less
3G3
The
Maiz. Indian
the republic,
Indian
when
red, fresh
mace does
tribes.
growing
quality, although
The
freely.
over
all
of the
of fine
The corn
and transported
When
in the husk.
is
always
the Spaniards
little
product
manner.
is
Mr.
tunately too
Belt,^ in his
little
known,
made from
The grain
wood-ashes or a
metatl,
is
little of
on
which
it
it is
bruised,
of the paste
into
is
and
it is
all
rubbed
it
was
boiled,
says
the maiz
is
in ancient
along with
at a time
called a metatle,
is
The
lime.
running water
of
first
is
little
it
He
placed upon a
rubbed with
another
is
little
water
stone,
thrown on
it
ball
The Naturalist
is
six-
in Nicaragua, p. 56.
GUATEMALA.
364
earthenware
[or
called
tortillas,
elling,
iron]
preferred
wheaten
flour.
The
pan.
cakes
made
so
When
nutritious.
are
trav-
When
who
human
food,
Much might
be
The straw
is
good.
is
seed
grown.
is
sown
is
Government
home wheat
The
found the
of a uniformly
quality,
officials.
indeed
good
it
is
opher
may
However the
philos-
of a country
have
less
human
fruits that
passed
comfort.
may
be
unnoticed
knowledge of
these.
plants
country
but I should
if
fail
in
my
some
of those fruits
life.
and
365
former
edulis) will
grow
136).
(p.
in neither place
that
it
East Indies.
is
it
In a dry climate
should be exported.
and
utiUssima), so impor-
and good.
and
still
keeps well,
it
perfectly good.
and
greatest
abundant
consumers
incisa)
grows remarkably
smaller than
full
baked
fruit sliced
and
is
fried is a delicacy.
very unpleasant.
grow
good),
melons,
among
the corn, as in
New
of
Squashes, cucumis
very
England.
when
and the
The odor
well,
Carefully baked
is
Some
They are
see a dozen or
fed to cattle as
GUATEMALA.
366
The
a long time.
chiote
{Sechium edule)
is
a rapid grow-
and in the
villages,
p)lazas it
was
all
through the
much
like a vegetable
of great impor-
or preserved in sugar.
It tastes
marrow.
tance in the kitchen, next to the universal chile [Cap-
anmium).
sicum
Peppers
other
of
kinds
are
used,
minced
meat coated with egg and crumbs and served as Chile
Pawpaws {Carica
relleno.
wild species
is
a cantaloupe, and
filled
(a small
and the
with pungent
is
making tough
The akee {Blighia scqnda) is much like a
in tarts.
tender.
custard
common
Pacific coast)
meat
stuffed with
2^ci2)aya) are
abundant on the
fruit, as large as
is
when
cooked.
is
is
called jKilta,
and
alligator-pear.
There are
first.
Intermediate,
fruit,
many
like
few strangers
varieties
the
carica,
be-
is
pear-
leathery skin.
kernel
is
It is of a buttery
and
The sapote
salt
and pepper.
367
and
insipid
Among
mango
in
is
inferior.
the
rank
first
of
may
fruits
be placed the
West Indian is
far inferior to the East Indian representative.
As a mere
shade-tree the mango is beautiful
but the rich juicy,
(Mangifei^a indica), although the
golden-meated
slightly
fruit,
with a flavor
tinged
is
of
a never-to-be-forgotten
delight.
sauce,
make
it
fibres
When
may
mango
sent
The
it
is
to,
although
be resorted
this
which attach
well.
said, as the
cherry or apple.
grows
so
commonly used
for fences is
which
is
either yellow
it is
which
may
cutting,
and very
juicy.
it
GUATEMALA.
368
much
it is
of Jamaica.
not sure of
and more
plum
am
and the
same time.
yet the
New
from
figs
and
Orleans.
but
smelling
pleasant-tasting
fruit,
bhel
{jEgle
didcis),
and a
the
Guavas
quality
vas, but
or
of its kind.
common
of occasional frosts.
The
A red-pulped
and
coast,
grow
strawberry gua-
fine
is
is
variety
is
much
prized.
Grapes
village.
fruit of
lemon,
may be
in the highlands.
matic
jelly of
is
of the size
shell contains
an aro-
The
limit
larger
is
more than a
foot long.
These vines
arindus
found
officinalis) is
369
all
many
not describe
While
our
its
There
common garden
vegetables can
be easily raised,
if
kept from ants, especially from the ravages of the zompopos, there are few gardens that contain
With food
for
man,
it
is
On
cattle thrive.
grass
is
of
them.
any
and
On
cattle.
the
the lowlands
and
On
usuall}^ chosen.
naturally,
the ridges
and in the
Coma3^agua
in
am
of Yoro, Olancho,
and
famous plains
is
the same,
The fauna
of
dant,
and many
that animal
is,
of the rivers
life is
swarm with
comparatively scarce.
Among
the
most
Game
believe
certainly
mammals
little
attractive.
fish, I
the
monkeys
white-faced (Cehiis
The hands and feet are very well formed, the nails espeand the tail is quite long. It seems less difficult
for him to stand erect than for most monkeys, and when
cially so,
24
GUATEMALA.
370
is
an affectionate
pet.
The howling-monkeys [Mtjcetes stentor) will be remembered by every traveller as the noisiest of the nocturSeveral other small monos are common
nal animals.
in the forests (/Si'mm apella, S. fatuellus, and S. capucina),
where they feed on wild-figs and other fruits. The pezote
(JSfassua solitaria)
is
mountain-ranges.
The manatee,
or lamantin
is
now
seldom,
is
still
if
ever, seen
on
found in British
etc.
in the
Chocon
forests,
habits
its
are
found in the
interior.
most dangerous
Guatemala
little
beast
their
is
too
They
can,
places.
siderable distance
small pouch on
back.
its
371
In the open
have often found peccary tracks, but never unaccompanied by the full, round print of the jaguar. When
forests I
The
jaguar, or tigre, as he
Central America,
fears
is
is
always called in
and
The
fears him.
tigre
is
whipped up
I
was ready
coils
the
of
the
earth
of the ter-
and
others, until
around every
tree, or their
was
to be deprived of a
in the rivers
must beware
of scorpions
of the alligators,
and centipedes.
Now,
size,
swim
and
in fact,
and very
GUATEMALA.
Oi 2
deficient in courage.
was
feet in length.
hundred in Florida to
seldom got a shot at any
Tliere are a
much
larger one
came ashore
to lay
killed.
are small,
less
when
The iguana
alligators, not
said,
by the Indios.
it is
They
alike at each
Young
are
and
finally
more than
So abundant are
by the dory-load
still
Of
alive,
fellows
hens' nests
rob the
excellent eating
let's,
of
in a
The
shell) are
The
tail,
sea-tur-
hundred and
fifty
Some
of these turtle
weigh one
at the egg-season,
am
but I
iguana.
much inferior to
common thing to capture
373
taste
which
off
stump
completely.
Of the
frogs, the
On
than on the
harmless,
Two
Pacific.
one
green,
that
snakes
all
long,
the
less
common
snakes, quite
other reddish-brown,
are
are poisonous,
much
slender
dark
color,
the
rattlesnake,
a
and
the coral snake are really venomous, and these are rarely
seen.
tail
may
be classed
is
good food.
large,
is
score of others of
local
names,
including one with solid red meat, are found in the rivers
and bays.
groves and in
swampy
common among
is
forests
larger crabs
come
Compendio,
t.
ii.
p. 94,
manto the
numbers as at
Belize.
^
the
GUATEMALA.
374
that of a hornet,
This articulate
and
in its motions,
not
is
is
many
Centi-
drowned
are
by no means quick
falls
of
species.
is
The
birds of
Guatemala are
of great beauty
and the
in splen-
dor of plumage.
ocel-
to be
bills
and
and many
and noisy
species of humming-birds,
distinct
smaller relatives,
black,
blue, carmine,
among
the
and yellow
some
Among
immense
size,
the Her-
ciiles
cinus longimanus)
and the
in length,
one
beetle
gives
375
{Aci^o-
Another
most
and constant
brilliant
West
quite as
light,
All through
Indies.
and on
trees
Many
posts.
ingly without
any
object
insects,
the
little
through the
all
for-
ests,
leaf they
the fire-ant
the comajen
is
intolerant of
The zompopos
are
if
coffee planta-
Some
midst.
of the
feet in diameter,
and
struction.^
efforts,
fire,
The
unendurable along
ston
but
A bite
by
all
rounded by an inflamed
^
persistent black
circle.
tlie
is
a pest.
spot,
Jiggers, beef-worms,
habits of the zompopos.
sur-
and
GUATEMALA.
376
there
is
The garrapatos
uncleanness.
Man
especially
Among the
both as an
if
and
article of food
much sought
the
found in some
but
it
considerable variety,
and study by
is
noise.
king,
and
at least
pink pearl
a conch-soup
said (with
some
rea-
two competent
(Medusce), Portuguese
star-fish
fine
I consider
fish
queen,
for cameo-cutting.
of the shells.
fans,
an instrument of
the two last being the best for eating, while the
first is
an important place
liolds
as
is
full
horse
when
found in
of collection
observers.
Jelly-
Passiflora
Brighami, Watson.
reefs of the
Bay
of
CHAPTER
XII.
ter
dwelling
among
the
of the effect
of a people caused
It is a
by constant
of Nature.
that
is
im-
it.
many
Only the
appreciate
beautiful world
however taught,
is
capable
humanity
is
of
the
Jungfrau.
wholly comprehending.
of
to see,
if
on the
speak
so to
on his
left
where he can
see,
if
GUATEMALA.
378
ground
stones
to
powder
the
in
gigantic
mill,
the Indio
who
come
to
him
same volcano.
His
is
very
fertile
where
by the
Not so
feet
He knows
ground
his
slopes of this
moments.
in such
his hut
is
that the
placed
he has
come
in his
way.
When
natural
his
stolidity,
he attributes
upon
it
his
to
some super-
especial saints
Have not
him
for
the Central
rite
in
commu-
is
not autochthonic
Even
an Eastern
is
no
religion
lurid
glow
fiery furnace,
introduced
to the eastward,
of the earth-fires.
to
imagination
suggestion of fire-worship
appears,
it
is
Where
always called
that
379
warmth and
growth.
And
yet, here is a
their
springs
cluster,
countries,
night the mariner along the Pacific coast sees the beaconfires
We
quakes
to
account, or even
careful
;
if
referred to at
native
find in
any
eruptions or earth-
notice, of
all, it
records
will be
much
where Cabracan
is
the mountains.
'
as in the
Popul Vuh,"
of
shaking
and a half
since
While
it is
minuteness
but were
it
not for
GUATEMALA.
380
Nature in their
we have
the
of
in matters
parochial
of
early
Even the
records.
experiences
vulcanology are
the
of
stories
Spaniards
so
volumes lying
stone
about
Nature,
of
the
and
mountains, writ-
rather than
human
the
chronicles,
VOLCANOES.
Stephens has described some of the Central American
volcanoes from
a geologist,
of
personal
and
the
in
visits,
last
years
of
still
the French
same
the
of
of lofty
many
rising
forest,
whose
vol-
Even
America
man
is
and hardenmg
sinews,
even
now
hojDe
his constitution
by virtuous
and
absti-
and
No
for
him
in
the
which he brings
Dollfus
Guatemala
et
Montserrat,
et Salvador.
Paris,
1868.
les
republiques
de
is
even the
of
tion
phenomena
me
that
little
if I
may
tempting
field
What
me
authorities
list
faintly
when my
and
my
personal observation
of
and they
fails,
any misstatements.
I give first
country
finally
properties
them by
we may
made much
have collected in
pass
From what
canoes.
what a
eruptions,
cinal
readers
for the
is
my
at the
there
of the volcanic
but perhaps
and
racies,
known
is
America
of Central
pardon
will
381
am
convinced that
volcanic vents.
been
described,
others
of the
in
east
^
Not
end of
northwestern
America, we
find
it
extends
the
south
the
existence
its
list
Beginning at the
chain
in
Central
fifty-five
degrees
who
embankment.
very few
in
line,
on every bed of
GUATEMALA.
382
general trend,
IN GUATEMALA.
Name.
Tacana
Tajumulco^
Santa Maria (Exancul)
.
Cerro Quemado
....
Present State.
Last Eruption.
Quiescent
1855
Extinct
18,317(?)
"
11,415
Quiescent
1785
10,205
Extinct
Zunil
"
"
Santa Clara
San Pedro
Atitlan
Active
Acatenango
Fuego
Active
8,554
8,125
1852
9,870
1880
12,075
Quiescent
Agua
Pacaya (Pecul)
Cerro Redoudo
Tecuamburro
....
....
13,563
Extinct
12,337
Quiescent
1775
Extinct
3,550
"
"
Cliingo
Amayo
Mita
Suchitan, or Santa Catarina
Monte Rico
6,500
"
"
"
5,000
1469(?)
''
Ipala
IN
Ana
San Salvador 2
....
Cojutepeque, or Ilopango
5,460
SAN SALVADOR.
Apaneca
Izalco
8,390
"
"
Moyuta
Santa
Height.
San Vincente
Tecapa
Extinct
5,826
Active
6,000
"
"
"
constant
6,000
6,182
3,400
Quiescent
1643
7,600
Extinct
"
Usulutan
Chinameca
San Miguel
Conchagua
Quiescent
5,000
1844
Active
Quiescent
^
Vandecrehuchto.
6,244
3,915
Rockstroh.
HONDURAS.
Name.
Present State.
Zacate Grande
Tigre
383
Congrehoy Peak
Last Eruption.
Height.
Extinct
2,000
"
2,632
Quiescent
8,040
Extinct
1,000
Bonito
Bay
Islands
IN
NICARAGUA.
Coseguina
Quiescent
1835
3,600
"
Chonco
....
"
"
Telica
Active
Orota
Quiescent
Las Pilas
Axusco, or Asososco
5,562
4,700
1850
"
.
4,000
Extinct
Momotombo
Active
Momotombito
Guanapepe
Extinct
Nindiri
Quiescent
3,800
4,690
1852
7,000
1858
3,000
"
Masaya
Active
Morabacho
Extinct
Zapeton, or Zapatera
...
Ometepec
Madeira
5,250
"
Active
1883
Quiescent
5,050
5,000
IN COSTA RICA.
Orosi
Rincou de
...
la Vieja
8,650
"
Extinct
Miravalles
Tenorio
Irazu, or Cartago
Quiescent
...
....
5,500
"
"
Active
Extinct
"
10,500
1726
11,450
12,533
GUATEMALA.
384
list
Name.
Present State.
Height.
Pico Blanco
Extinct
11,740
Rovalo
Chiriqui
(?)
7,021
(?)
11,265
equal-
Humboldt's
of
flip,
the
Congrehoy Peak.
photograph
was able
my
ago,
only
was
defective.
Trust-
made
perhaps the
when
far as
the
a
and
the mountain-top
of
The sharpness
result of
that
:
;
as
regret
make
to
drawings
"^
Cnrf]illfiva,s
Cordilleras
the crater
Belize,
fell
in
hundred and
fifty
miles.
Belonging
ular
basaltic lava,
older basalt
however,
distinctly
volcanic,
The formation
and apparently
of
character.
385
and
comb Range
may add
of British
American volcanoes
Conquest, the
the
before
Spanish chroniclers
tell
and
friar Blase
companions
his
(lava) in
The bucket,
the lava
and the
earliest
which held
melted on approaching
it,
the expedition.
that
fire,
it
of activity, without
in the
Halemaumau
crater,
the
Mayas
much
as
It is curi-
maidens to
sacrificed
Chichen Itza
and a similar
is
has been
cone
sacrifice
made
Lake
slight one.
Masaya,
of
and
its
the
Brasseur de Bourbourg,
25
ii.
44.
The
only
ejections are
But
I will
at
put
GUATEMALA.
)86
LIST OF
Year.
Volcano.
1522
Masaya
Fuego
1526
1565
1581
1582
1585 and 1586
1614
1623
1643
1651
1664
1668
Pacaya
Fuego
"
"
"
"
San Vincente
Pacaya
"
"
1670
(?) in Nicaragua
1671
Pacaya
"
1677
1686
1699
1705
1706
1707
1710
1717
1723
1726
1732
1737
1764
1770
1772
1775
1775
1785
1798
1799
1803
Fuego
"
"
"
"
"
"
two eruptions
Irazu
Fuego
Momotombo
Izalco (formation of)
Masaya
(?) in Nicaragua
Pacaya
Cerro
Quemado
Izalco
Fuego
Izalco
1821
(?) in Nicaragua
1829
Fuego
1835
Coseguina
EARTHQUAKES
A]!fD
VOLCANOES.
Year,
Volcano.
1844
San Miguel
1847
1850
1852
Telica
( -0
i^
387
Nicaragua
Momotombo
Tacana
Fuego
"
"
1855
1855
1856
1857
1858
Masaya
1869
Izalco
1870
Ilopaugo (Lago
1880
1880
cle)
Fuego
Omotepec
1883
EARTHQUAKES.
I
my
readers with a
list
of
mind with
city.
now
Founded
Guatemala,"
it
had grown
numerous misfortunes,
to
An
earthquake in 1526, so
men
could not
Agua
in
(puma
?)
forest-
GUATEMALA.
388
of
Politics
is
event
September
on Thursday, the 8th, a storm began which was violent
is
and continued
Two
day.
earthquake
Rain
felt,
in torrents,
shock was
fell
last
day a severe
of water,
immense rocks and entire forests. The terror of the earthquake and the roar of the unseen torrent
wrought the excitement of the inhabitants to the utmost.
Soon the deluge reached the city the streets were filled to
overflowing, and the houses were beaten by the waves
carrying with
it
trees brought
by the
torrent.
Among
389
chapel wall.
the
was
far greater.
decided
It
to
Antigua.
and
crater-lip
let the
filled
dam
down
in
with
of the
the steep
the crater
able
to
On May
23, 1575,
in consecrated ground.
Antigua.
de-
damaged
it
The day
March
4,
then the
while.
disturbance goes
southward
for a
GUATEMALA.
390
San Salvador, and the next month many in the Department of Chiquimula in Guatemala while during the fol;
destroyed,
if
yielded to the
become
ment
of
desolate,
the town.
still
the orna-
its
its
architectural display,
still
is
attrac-
and
out under the shadow of the volcano and await the next
destruction,
is
past
is
all
forgotten.
and
it
was no strange
it
still.
In 1774 nearly
all
ruined.
hope
my readers understand
A place is
misfortunes of earthquake countries.
" shaken," then " shattered, then " ruined," and finally
" destroyed " by the visit of a temblor ; and it is a very
the
'
ate
and another
not.
is
appropri-
391
rest,
was destroyed
greatly ruined
On
in
on
May
March and
felt in
On Nov.
6,
on April 16,
25, 1859.
done in Cuajinicuilapa
destroyed, and
month
June 12,
much damage
later a severe
earthquake
and
was the turn of Patzicia to be destroyed, while Chimaltenango, Antigua and the vicinity were only ruined.
The
year 1878 was marked by the destruction of several towns
it
western Guatemala.
In
recent
years
so
much more
and record
and direction
lists
but this
seem
is
of earth-
to indicate the
GUATEMALA.
392
and frequency.
twenty-one of the
fifty
American volcanoes
it
fall
therefore I
just
is
''
On
list
real.
must
memory
On
Saturday
The people
celebrate
all
was
quiet,
the
The night
Passover.
of
Saturday was
tranquil, as
it is
and
true,
serene.
For the
first
three hours of
the evening
houses and
city.
made encampments
Many
in
393
of
such fearful force that in ten seconds the entire city was
The crashing
prostrated.
of houses
from the
them
in a pall of im-
penetrable darkness.
up or made
The
clock-
edifice
in
it
its
filled
The towers
fall.
dry.
San
of the church of
palace.
The church
neath
its
entirely ruined.
of
its
walls
fell
all
left
Merced
the
of
outward
ground.
but
university
was
It
to the
left standing,
is
worthy
of
all
those of
edifices
destruction.
ten
seconds
for
we have
said, in the
feet,
ravages.
Solemn and
had
terrible
left
but
was the
trifling results
little
for their
picture presented
to
Heaven
GUATEMALA.
394
their
whom
and friends
children
they believed to be
terror
filling
streets filled
threatening walls; a
suffocating cloud of
dust almost
spectacle
awful night.
"
in the college,
many
infull
befallen
was found that the loss of life was much less than was
supposed and it now appears probable that the number
of killed will not exceed one hundred, and of wounded,
It
fifty.
by
rains,
archives, as also
many
may be
remove
it
it
an ineffectual attempt to
The
is,
395
It
Ana, which,
^tna,
like
a mother of mountains.
is
San
and Apaneca
of the
seem to be her
all
At
rancho.
offspring.
which continued
about half
emitting
a mile from
fire,
in
the
so terrible a neighbor
boys,
who came
and
loudness
opened
earth
hacienda,
The house-people
from
it
increase
until
severity
to
fled
new
monster, declared
thrown out
instead.
this action
has gone on, and the ejecta have formed a cone more than
six
At
in-
oc-
tervals of
By night
cloud of smoke
is
of cinders
is
down
always active
like lightning.
(optical, probably),
it is
this
As
these
some distance
stones.
faint track
and
rills
and sometimes
of molten lava
sailors call
of Salvador.
down
Like Stromboli,
GUATEMALA.
396
San Miguel
rising
dred
is
feet.
is
From
class.
exceedingly
mass
its
is
regular,
it
form,
its
size,
and
its
which surrounds
its
Above
grayish-white.
smoke
floats lazily
away.
ever-changing cloud
the
all,
Of
American volcanoes,
published
many
years ago by
of
Don
is
all
of Central
seems to convey a
it
fair
We
noon
He
of the 7th of
says
after-
At eleven
rises the
o'clock at night
we
the town.
brilliancy
we
considered
it
At four
the mountain
in the morning,
with the
earliest
dawn
We
of day,
we
however soon
it
was
397
we were
difficult
belt,
ascent.
of
difficult
it
We
when we found
Frequently we
moment
slid
it
Nevertheless, after
many
falls,
we
had
suf-
solid
and the
scoriae firm
gerous, yet
we found
it
than over
we reached
the
summit proper
of the
The
and having a
circuit of a mile
descendino:,
that
and a
level
half.
but on
was traversed
varying from one
it
by profound fissures,
yards in width, from which escaped dense
in every direction
foot to five
is
About
GUATEMALA.
398
mouth
mouth
of the volcano.
any moment
fissures
to sink into
the
of
some one
we were
of the
liable
numerous
superficial crust.
He
we determined
Providing ourselves
At every
step
overpowering.
Our
efforts,
of
flame,
before, I
of living fire
throwing
out
floods
and
of
its
it
tame
us.
in
have described.
is
The
It is of irregular width, in
;
One
is
which
some places
fathom
crater, as
of Izal-
fiashing tongues
incandescent lava
before observed,
reached
more magnificent.
" A few months
co, with its crown
finally
The depth
molten lava,
199
walls of the
orifice.
from
all
sides, so that at
guish
my
scribable
magnetic
influence
or
fascination
An
inde-
seemed to
us,
and
momentarily to
rise
and overwhelm
us, as if the
volcano
Our contemplations of this fearful orifice were therethe smoke and odor overpowered us
and
a few moments we were forced to abandon our posi-
fore brief,
in
tions
We
air at a distance.
we had
left
our guide
commenced our
descent, reaching
Of the eruptions
none in the
Conchagua
by
its
at six
historical period
guina in 1835.
ward
of
San Miguel
irregular
outline,
scarred
rising on the
Not remarka-
from the
slopes,
and
sea,
and
desolate
GUATEMALA.
400
On
its
leagues.
rose
pine.
From
this
column
or
immense quantity
sudden
by the
much
of
of
rough mineral
projection
of
cooler atmosphere.
parti-
As the cloud
and lungs. For two days the explogrew more frequent and louder, while the eruption
of sand increased
and on the third day the terrible noises
were loudest in an almost absolute darkness. The rain of
sions
many
it
At Leon,
in Nicara-
in
was
At Belize the noise of the exwas so loud that the commandant mustered his
troops and manned the forts, thinking there was a naval
sand miles in diameter.
plosions
terrible.
We
human
beings.
as-
crosses,
401
and uttering
At the end
and ex-
plosions ceased,
gradually blown
away from
The
the atmosphere.
in diameter,
a crater
side,
of lava
on the other.
was not
Ashes cov-
On Coseguina
return-
was
this
for a
hundred and
fifty miles.
some
prehistoric time
me
by the
see
Lago de Amatitlan
of the
it
occurs
On
lagos or lagiinas.
filled
the summit of
filled
many
of the extinct
crater-lip in
are
we
in
Lago de Amatitlan.
many
1541
of the
sometimes
gin,
class is the
this last
Coatepeque
Of
is
all their
water.
GUATEMALA.
402
means
of ladders
there are
many
pits,
Finally
filled
some-
that
is,
result
shores
they
are not,
of
of material
and
it
is
damming
they should be
if
the lake
you
if
was an ancient
will,
crater.
Com-
body
of
as
is
water
is
This
Lake
fills
several
points
of
eruption.
have before
my
friend
Edwin Rockstroh
me
the
Government by
of his observations
made on
The lake
is
of 54.3 kilometres.
only
on
the
by
southeast
the
403
narrow gorge
receives
as
its
no important
emissary
is
of
affluents
much
greater volume at
indeed one
it is
all
and
seasons
ilVt'jf
Lago de llopango,
1880.
The
(209.26 metres).
and
feet,
in
on the
less
fell
careous deposits.
It
who
lived near
of the
GUATEMALA.
404
genus
At times an
cldinholo.
asphyxiated
partly
sulphurous gases
of
tion
and
Hei^os), ^;e^?esca,
What
the fishermen.
greater disturbances
fell
the
a prey to
is
from
the author,
Don
Camillo Gal-
The people
fish,
a Guatemaltecan journal
"
erup-
of the pueblos
when the
which they knew by the
lord
disappearance of
fish, it
of those regions
who
eating the
fish,
worthy
of his
allay hunger.
The
all
fish as
men
and
by the
fish
ordinary
Then the
diet,
collected at the
fruits
into
lake
if
the trem-
then
cancrworus).
{Dasyjms),
and
lieterodus),
mapachines
(Procyon
If
no
less
than
the tremors continued, and the fish did not come out of
their caves, they (the brujos) took a girl of
from
six to
the wizards took her to the middle of the lake and cast
1
6,
March
14, 1880.
in,
neck.
405
face
much
reserve,
of
November, 1879, a
series
fish."
of earth-
and on Jan.
counted),
about four
four and
On
feet.
11,
the next
half-j)ast
half-past
making a stream
which received
plantations on
is
The
Rhine at Basle.
Paris or the
As
of greater
this
did
torrent,
damage
great
Jiboa,
to
the
On
river
banks.
its
tities as to
little
now
in such
quan-
face
numerous
flakes of a black
which
sulphide,
slight explosion.
in
contact
On
foam composed
of ferric
of vapor.
all
and the
the water
over
visible,
For more
GUATEMALA.
406
above the
feet
It is
sea).
much
in the
is
very
whether
fluid or solid,
and
also as to
what we
American volcanic
call
region, as
an eruption.
was
exploration,
tific
and the
In the Central
done in the
facts recorded,
way
of scien-
beyond popular
reader.
is
and
scientific discussion,
bare statements.
In the
first place,
both ashes and lava, the latter being most frequently trachytic.
in
On
mala.
is
struc-
has
many
former
common on
Another feature
basaltic rapilli in
of
eastern Guate-
basaltic
of the Central
American volcanoes
This
is
is
due to the
;;
more
slight
fluidity.
is
407
fluid
fifty or sixty
with a height of
and a slope
less
The eruptions
of the
of masses of rock
which
way
and
terstices,
the in-
which
No
at
least of
From
increasing
fills
feet
to-
lava-stream, at
any considerable
deposits, I
saw that
in
of great variety of
form
in
former
that
of
contem-
When
a volcano pours
tremors, as
and
is
may
its
lava out of
its
sum-
way
GUATEMALA.
408
of
molten rock
we have
is
is
so simple that it
must commend
itself to
may
filled
is
It
bent beneath
my weight,
I left footprints
degrees.
might retain
The
solid lava
its
is
scattered often to a
decomposition layers of
Sulphur
is
soil
and the
APPENDIX.
APPENDIX.
WHAT
an attic-room
dix
to the
is
is
maker
Some
a book.
an appen-
things that do
useful,
there
are
some reader, things that will be missed if they are not under
I mean between the covers of the volume in
the same roof,
and yet the skill is wanting to incorporate these odd
hand,
pieces (of furniture, if you wish) in the orderly chapters of the
book. And so I give you here several long notes and some
longer
lists.
AND TIMBER.
Almond {Amygdalus communis).
Fustic {Madura tinctoria).
Ronron.
Guachapeli,
Fnnera.
building.
of various kinds, as
red, cir-
cular, buttress.
in boat-
zii).
Mangrove {Bhizophora Mangle)
Trompillo.
ver^'
the wood is dark red, and
;
Tepemis,
durable.
Mangrove
is
(i?.
Candel)
the
fine
guis-cati)
Blood -wood
polish.
Granadillo,
yellow.
red wood,
much used
for tables.
{Laplacea
toxylon).
Palo de Cortez.
hcBma-
APPENDIX.
412
Tamiagua.
Locust,
ril)
is
from
this tree
gum-copal
obtained.
Saradillo.
Cambron.
Gum-thorn {Acacia Arahica).
Ira^-ol,
yellow and ochre-colored.
Chaquiro.
Cotorron.
Seeliillo.
Quiebra-hacha
{Sloanea
Jamai-
black wood.
Copalchi, quinine-tree; the bark
Sare.
censis),
Volador.
Brasiletto {Ccesalpima crista).
is
Tatamite.
demand.
Goyava {Psidium)
and
compact,
wood
is also in
though
great size.
variet}^,
Chipilte.
Meloncillo,
easilj'.
dark.
Quita calzon.
Zorra.
Marillo.
Palo grande.
Medlar.
Pigeon-wood
Bambu {Bamhusa).
Hjiiliguiste,
light-colored wood.
Coccoloba diversi-
folia).
Conacaste.
Gorrion.
Calabash-tree,
Guaje (Cresce7itia
ciijete).
Canelillo.
Chicate.
Tempisque.
Rosewood {Dalhergid).
Pie de paloma.
Guilsinse.
Nance,
dye-wood.
white and close
Orange {Citrus),
grained.
Chichipate.
Cuaquiniquil.
Varillo.
Sunzapote.
Copinol.
Sicamite.
Chaperno.
Guaquilite.
Sandbox-tree
Hura
crepitans).
Screw-pine (Panf?awMs)
wood
is
the heart-
mental.
Salm {Jacaranda)
much used
light-colored,
for door-frames.
APPENDIX.
413
lum).
for sandpaper.
Hog-gum
laba).
Filo.
Macaligua.
(Si/m2)honia
glohuli- Loro.
Madrefera.
fera).
Sincho.
Melon.
Jilicifolium)
is).
Totascamite,
Guazuma
yellow.
( 6r.
tomentosd)
ylon)
Pepeto.
Dulcete.
Oak
{Ilex sideroxyloides).
Tamacillo.
riensis).
Zapotillo.
Pimientillo.
Caumillo.
Qualm
Cecropia peltatd)
LEAF-CUTTING ANTS.
The Q^codoma, Zompopos,
America that
Mr. Belt the most satisfactory account of their habits that has
ever been published.
He
says
" The
one
lot
about the size of a sixpence and held up vertically between the jaws
of the ant, another lot liurrying along in an opposite direction empt}'
If he fol-
APPENDIX.
414
lows this last division, it will lead him to some 3'oung trees or shrubs,
up which the ants mount, and where each one, stationing itself on the
edge of a leaf, commences to make a circular cut with its scissor-like
its
When
the piece
is
nearly cut
looks as though
it
would
finall}'
is
off,
fall to
is
still
stationed upon
off at
a moment's delay
it
turns.
and
it
but on being
and arranging
itself,
once on
its
return.
come
in
it
again,
and without
itself,
burden to
its
Following
it is
it
it
it,
it
As
it
proceeds,
reached.
low wide
and immediately around
which the bushes have been killed by their buds and leaves having
been persistenth' bitten off as thej- attempted to grow after their first
defoliation. Under high trees in the thick forest the ants do not make
their nests, because, I believe, the ventilation of their underground
galleries, about which they are very particular, would be interfered
with, and perhaps to avoid the drip from the trees.
It is on the outskirts of the forest, or around clearings or near wide roads that let in
the sun, that these formicariums are generally found. Numerous round
tunnels, varying from half an inch to seven or eight inches in diameter, lead down through the mounds of earth
and many more from
some distance around also lead underneath them. At some of the
holes on the mounds ants will be seen busily at work bringing up
little pellets of earth from below and casting them down on the
ever-increasing mounds, so that its surface is nearh' fresh and new-
mounds of brown
is
It consists of
looking.
What
vegetation
is
in the tropics,
and ever
How
Surelj*
is
it
that
nowhere but
None
leaf-cutting ants
it,
and
at
my
garden, the
APPENDIX.
ing the j'oung bananas, orange, and
415
mango
followed up the paths of the hivading hosts to their nest, which was
about one hundred j^ards distant, close to the edge of the forest.
holes up
At
mound of
first
earth covering
down below
the
mound and
I then
chambers beneath,
dug
filled
But I soon
found that the underground ramifications extended so far and to so
great a depth, whilst the ants were continually at work raakhig fresh
it would be an immense task to eradicate them by
and notwithstanding all the digging I had done the first
da}', I found them as busil}'' at work as ever at ni}' garden, which the}'
were rapidly defoliating. At this stage our medical officer, Dr. J. H.
Simpson, came to my assistance, and suggested the pouring carThe suggestion
bolic acid, mixed with water, down their burrows.
proved a most valuable one. We had a quantity of common brown
carbolic acid, about a pint of which I mixed with four buckets of
excavations, that
such means
it
it
it
down
their burrows.
The
have wished
effect
" Next day I found them busil}" emplo3'ed bringing up the ant-food
from the old burrows and carrving it to a new one a few yards distant and here I first noticed a wonderful instance of their reasoning
powers. Between the old burrows and the new one was a steep slope.
Instead of descending this with their burdens, the}" cast them down
on the top of the slope, whence they rolled down to the bottom, where
another relay of laborers picked them up and carried them to the new
burrow. It was amusing to watch the ants hurrying out with bundles
of food, dropping them over the slope and rushing back immediately
for more.
They also brought out great numbers of dead ants that the
fumes of the carbolic acid had killed. A few days afterwards, when
I visited the locality again, I found both the old burrows and the new
one entirely deserted, and I thought they had died oflT; but subsequent
events convinced me that the sur%'ivors had only moved away to a
greater distance.
It was fully twelve months before my garden was
again invaded. I had then a number of rose-trees, and also cabbages
;
APPENDIX.
416
The
growing, which the ants seemed to prefer to everything else.
rose-trees were soon defoliated, and great havoc was made amongst
the cabbages.
them to
I followed
and found
their nest,
it
about two
hundred yards from the one of the year before. I poured down the
burrows, as before, several buckets of water with carbolic acid. The
water
is
down
The
ants, as before,
new nests others carried the undeveloped white pupae and larvie.
and the next day the formiIt was a wholesale and entire migration
carium down which I had last poured the carbolic acid was entireh'
;
deserted.
all
biting each
As
down
with a determined
air,
as if the}'
all
wish
could quote
all
is
make
Thomas
Belt,
The
never seen
APPENDIX.
417
stupidity."
QUICHE PRAYER.
Here
is
a translation
supposed Christian,
it
is
present day.
Compare
it
O Jesus Christ my God, thou God the Son with the Father and
Holy Spirit art but one God
To-da}- on this daj', at this hour,
on this day of Tijax, I invoke the holy spirits who attend the dawn
and the last glimmerings of da}'
With the holy spirits I pray to
thee, O chief of the Genii who dwell in this mountain of Sija-Raxquin
Come, blessed spirits of Juan Vachiac, of D. Domingo Vachiac, of
Juan Ixquiaptop blessed spirits of Francisco Ecoquij, of Diego Soom,
of Juan Ta}-, of Alonso Tzep holy spirits, I repeat, of Diego Tziquin and Don Pedro Noj you, O priests, to whom all things are
open, and tliou Chief of the Genii ye Gods of the mountain, Gods of
"
the
the plain,
now
Don Puruperto
candle
Come
Martin,
come, accept
also
And
God
God
Quiacbasuhip, thou
27
"
APPENDIX.
418
come
him be
Do
in
who burn
one who
I the
who
him, I
pra}' for
may
easil}-
do not
allow him to get sick with fever, let him not become paralytic, let
him not be choked with a cough, let him not be bitten by a serpent,
let him not be swollen with wind nor asthmatic, let him not become
mad nor be bitten by a dog, let him not perish by a thunderbolt,
suffer him not to perish by rum, nor die by sword or stave, neither
assist him, O clouds! assist him, O
let an eagle snatch him awa}^
Aid him, Saint Peter, aid him.
lightnings assist him, O thunderclap
I then who have spoken
Saint Paul, aid him, thou Eternal Father
for him thus far, I pray that sickness may come upon his opponents
;
may encoun-
grant that when his enem}' goes forth from his house he
ter sickness
riginal
names
new names on
if
from
We
know
the former
venience,
b}^
names
name
the
name
the undetermined
ones
of these places,
of the nearest
for while
Guatemala
is
undoubtedly
name of the Cakchiquel capital, Tecpan Quahteknown whether this was named for Prince
indeed whether the prince of that name ever ex-
malan,
it
is
Jieutemal, or
isted.
not
Quiche
is
meaning "a
forest,"
clie,
an
" trees
inappro-
"
APPENDIX.
The termination
2^an
means
419
Tepee
naques.
is
all of them in mountainous regions, the second being a volcano of considerable heigiit. Tlcui means a " city " or " home "
;
with
of the old
woman
(Atit)," Zapotitlaviy
much
House
home
ancient abode
"
of the Shield."
troublesome matter
is the varying and uncertain orthography of most of the names now in use. Goattemala, Gautemala, Guatimala, are all used by writers. The termination p)a7i
is often in official publications spelled pam.
Quczaltenango is
or
be correct derivations.
APPENDIX.
420
The proper
and Clara are by no means neglected.
name of the capital city of Guatemala is Santiago (St. James)
and if the ambitious projects dear to the late President Barrios
should be accomplished, as seems not improbable, England will
have to be satisfied with St. George, and leave " The Court of
St. James " to the Central American kingdom.
To the Anglo-Saxon such names as True Cross, Holy Cross,
Thanks to God, City of Angels, Nativity, and Holy Saviour seem
Izabal,
Nor
are
and the
like,
NO RUINS OF DWELLINGS.
In
all
and
human
habitations
even
and the temples would not admit more than four or five persons
Herrera says there " were so many and such
at the same time.
stately Stone Buildings that it was amazing; and the greatest
"Wonder is, that, having no Use of any Metal, they were able to
raise such Structures, which seem to have been Temples, for
Always of
their Houses were always of Timl)er and thatched."
less durable material than stone, the houses have disappeared,
and we must not infer that there were no dwellers about the
places where we find to-day only monuments of the dead or reAt the present time there is many a village in
ligious edifices.
Guatemala where the church is the only building of masonry,
all the houses being of the most perishable materials, as palm
stems and leaves, bark and mud. If the town of Livingston were
destroyed to-day and not rebuilt, there would be nothing on the
site after two years to show that men had ever lived there.
It would certainly be interesting to learn why many of the
temples have doors, passages, and even rooms that a man of
in.
APPENDIX.
421
difficult the
in a country
of
Crosses.
Mestizo (Ladino)
I give a list
Male.
Female.
Spaniard.
Indian woman.
Castiso
Spaniard.
Mestiza.
Espanolo
Castiso.
Spanish woman.
Mulato
Morisco
Albino
Negro.
Spanish woman.
Spaniard.
Mulata.
Morisco.
Spanisli
Tornatras
Albino.
Spanish woman.
Tornatras.
Spanish woman.
Negro.
Indian woman.
Caribujo
Lobo.
Indian woman.
Barsino
Tente en
Lobo
el aire
....
(wolf)
woman.
Grifo
Lobo.
Albarazado
Coyote.
Indian woman.
Clianiso
Indio.
Mestiza.
Mechino
Coyote.
Loba.
Negress.
GUATEMALTECAN COOKERY.
I
is
but of the
it
may
common
truly be said
that
chillis,
and vinegar.
made
lard,
f/igote,
or hashed
APPENDIX.
422
are present as
solid dishes,
and, best of
all,
many
plantain.
plants, none,
In the shore
and the ensaladas are not remarkable.
region one can have most delicious turtle-steak, white and tenperhaps the best native dish,
der as veal, iguanas fricasseed,
lions
javia-steaks, armadillo
(which
sugar
is
may be run
grinding, and
is
prepared
becomes pasty by
These chocolate-drops are dissolved in boiling milk as wanted, and the whole churned to a
Prepared in this way, chocolate is much better than the
froth.
some
cool
surface to harden.
hundred cacaos,
pods of
chilli,
treating
it
to
my
them
readers.
It is this
"
One
two
may
be replaced by six roses of Alexandria, powdered), two drams of cinnamon, a dozen each of almonds and
or vanilla (this
common
practice
was
to allow
was the custom also at the table d'hote in the hotels to finish
filling the mouth with water and spurting it on the
a meal by
tiled floor.
APPENDIX.
423
fire
rest
pivro.
When
the pot
was near
to boiling, she
reached out her bare leg and tested the temperature of the contents
with her toe, as a Northern cook might have used his finger. Frank
was scandalized
it
of taste.
photographs,
it
may
all
from
minute
details.
rapidity
passed for
purpose
its
The
in motion, a
&
Rowell, of Boston,
as usual,
was a 5
the
of
finest
quality.
8 size of the
my
5x8
plate.
I carried
no
tent,
on
For the stereoscopic pictures, I used
The plates were developed
Euryscope No.
lenses.
but changed
of failures.
of the 8
4x5
In
10
be
have used a strong barrel
and cork-dust with complete success. It is a matter of deep
regret that the method of mechanical reproduction utterly deIn cases
stroys all the beauty of the original photographs.
size
but for
preferred.
all
size is to
accuracy of outline.
424
APPENDIX.
MONEY
IN GUATEMALA.
This last
is
real is twelve
and three
cents.
4,725
CoLaii
4,356
Esquipulas
San Cristobal
San Miguel Uspantan
2,324
....
2,986
4,643
2,744
6,040
Los Horcones
3,637
Cunen
5,942
Piedra de Amolar
2,340
Sacapulas
3,826
Quezaltenango
7,697
Copan
Vado Hondo
Chiquimula
Totonicapan
8,150
Zacapa
449
Sololci
7,041
Psacaya
8,366
Guatemala City
Antigua
5,013
5,072
"
"
""
Ciuclad Vieja
5,151
"
"
"
6,621
1,830
....
....
(S.
1,450
3,901
Palin
3,753
Acatenango
Cuajinicuilapa
2,848
Volcan de Atitlan
Cerro Redondo
3,542
Cerro
Los Esclavos
2,394
Santa Maria
Agua Blanca
2,658
Suchitan
4,108
Lago de Atitlan
Lago de Am atitlan
Lago de San Cristobal
2,251
Volcan de Fuego
"
(crater bot.)
Amatitlau
"
1,244
Maria)
Escuintla
"
1,237
12,313
6,828
12,087
(La Meseta)
13,127
12,001
13,616
.
Quemado
11,723
10,201
11,483
.
5,112
.3,895
4,643
APPENDIX.
I find it impossible to reconcile
of the
servers
425
some
of these
my own
is
measurements
is
(2.47
acres),
They
them.
and
some extent,
"
"
24,000
"
"
=
=
contle.
jiquipil
carga
=
=
20 eontles.
3 jiqiiipiles.
not myself
familiar to
make any
me
Near
dioica, L.
Panajachel.
caripensis,
HBK.
Izabal.
HBK.
Sau
Banks
lucida, Presl
Chocon.
Livingston.
Dry
hills
near
Rio Chocon.
Shores
Jose.
have ven-
Quirigua.
Tetracera n. sp.
tiapa.
Sacapulas, Ju-
list.
of Rio
n. sp.
Anona squamosa,
muricata, L.
L.
Livingston,
Cunen, Uspantan.
APPENDIX.
426
Anona
Common,
Cheriniolia, Mill.
fHampea
palustris, L.
stipitata,
(?)
Watson.
Large
Chocon.
tree,
ingston.
Xylopia frutescens,
Cissampelus Pareira, L.
Rio Eriodendron
Izabal,
Shore
Rio Dulce.
Sacapulas, Chocon,
ceiba.
Quirigaa.
Dulce.
Rio
Pachira macrocarpa.
San Felipe.
Motagua.
Moringa pterygosperma, Gaertn. Za-
Cleonie polygama, L.
insignis, Sav.
capa, Chiquimiila.
sp.
Bi.xa Orellana, L.
Xylosma
nitida,
Rio
laurina,
Oliver.
Izabal,
Gomphia (Ouratea)
Chocon.
Izabal.
HBK.
Hura
Uplands.
Poinsettii.
euphorbiaceous
trees
in
cordata,
Lago de
Willd.
sp.).
Portulaca
Cunen
oleracea,
to Quiche.
Livingston,
L.
Chocon.
Phytolacca
icosandra,
L.
Antigua,
Amaranthus
paniculatus, L.
Rio Dulce,
Chocon.
WatV. de
Fuego.
Chocon.
tree,
Low, wide-spreading
tree, Izabal.
tree.
Symphonia
" Hogglobulifera,
L.
gum." Large tree, Chocon.
Calophyllum Calaba, Jacq. Livingston.
Marcgraavia
var.
Cunen,
Hemsl.
Clusia guatemalensis,
I'ectiflora,
Triana
Goudoutiana.
Ruyschia Soui'oubea,
Sauraujia oreophila,
Jutiapa.
Sida rhombifolia, L.
Lago
Izabal.
Matapalo
Izabal.
Quercus (2
Watson.
Rio Chocon.
Large
eastern highlands.
Drymaria
son.
Sacapulas, Zacapa.
crepitans, L.
Two
guatemalensis, En-
termined.)
Euphorbia
Chocon.
Chocon.
gler.
lanceolata,
Croton.
HBK.
de Izabal.
Jatropha Curcas, L.
Janipha Manihot,
tomentosa,
Cliocon.
Chocon, Quiri-
cacao, L.
gua, Pansos.
Guazuma
Chocon.
Oncoba
Chocon.
Theobroma
A. G.
Chocon,
W.
& Planch.
Chocon.
Livingston.
Hemsl.
V. de
Fuego.
Abutilon.
(Trees at
allied sp.
ston.
Polochic Amatitlan
,
APPENDIX.
Erythroxylum
Linnm
Madura
Livingston.
sp.
Benth.
guatemalense,
Agua.
Byrsonima crassifolia,
HBK.
Cult.
Watson.
Lanieri,
Tree
Lindeniana, Juss.
Cuilapa.
Chocon.
Izabal.
Chocon
Anacardium
Rio Dulce.
Izabal.
Rio Chocon.
Halicacabuni, L.
Cayo Pa-
Indigofera anil, L.
Sesbania exasperata,
Desmodium.
Chocon.
Rio Chocon.
DC.
Naturalized.
occidentale, L.
velutina,
Chocon.
Chocon.
" Jocote."
Mangifera indica, L.
trees,
" Maho."
sp.
Chocon.
Rourea glabra, HBK. Lago de Izabal.
Connarus Pottsii, Watson. Shores at
Cho-
con.
Spondias lutea, L.
purpurea, L.
Izabal.
sp.
aurantiaca, Nutt.
Y. de Peperomia (2 sp.). On
Bursera gummifera, L. ?
Izabal.
Bunchosia
427
Chocon.
at
Mucuna
guatenialensis, Turcz.
Melia Azederach, L.
Escuintla, Izabal,
El Mico.
puriens,
DC.
Chocon.
toluiferum,
Chocon, Qui-
Vado Hondo.
W.
Erythrina velutina,
Myroxylon Pereirae,
naturalized.
HBK.
Livingston.
Klotzs. Escuintla.
HBK.
S. Coast.
Cedxela odorata, L.
Mico, 1500
Chocon.
Cassia fistula, L.
ft.
Tribulus cistoides, L.
Guaiacuni
Shores.
guatemalense, Herb.
amorphoides,
Bauhinia (2
Chocon.
Liebni.
(?)
Rio Dulce.
Schlecht.
Rio
Chocon.
Dry
DC.
uplands.
Mimosa pudica, L.
casta, L.
Livingston.
guatemalensis, Benth.
Dulce.
Chocon, Quirigua.
sp.).
Chocon.
+ sp.).
Rio Chocon,
Rio Polochic.
Ficus (3
Livingston,
at
Izabal.
Wimmeria
common
Shores of Lago de
Quassia amara, L.
Alvaradoa
sp.
another at Antigua.
officinale, L.
Chocon.
W. Rio
Dorstenia contrayerva, L.
ley.
Acacia Farnesiana,
W.
Jutiapa, Cui-
lapa.
Chocon.
Chixoy Val-
spadicigera, Schlecht.
arabica,W. Jutiapa.
Calliandra saman, Gr.
Pithecolobium
sp.
(4-1- others.)
Santo Tonias.
Vado Hondo.
APPENDIX.
428
Inga vera,
W.
Schizolobium
sp.
Wild tamarind."
"
Rio Polochic.
Rio Dulce,
Rhizophora Mangle, L.
Santo Toiuas.
Cacoucia coccinea, Aublet.
Rio Cho-
common.
Naturalized,
Hemsl.
guatemalense,
Cho-
Encuentros, Solola.
Benth.
cordata,
Guate-
mala City,
Coban.
gracilis, Hemsl.
Psychotria sp.
Rio Chocon.
Bouvardia sp. Cunen.
Chimaltenango.
leiantha, Benth.
Livingston.
sp.
Ageratum conyzoides,
Common.
L.
Quiche, Cunen.
Zacapa.
Quiche, Quezaltenango.
sp.
V. de Fuego.
San
Cristobal, Patzim.
Uplands.
V. Santa Maria,
cordifolia,
H&A.
Coban.
Lobeliacefe (3 sp.).
Chrysophyllum Cainito, L.
Fevillea, sp.
Carica Papaya, L.
with
small,
unedible
fruit.
Living.ston.
observed.
calcarata, Bertol.
Trujillo, Palin.
sp.
L.
3 sp.
sp.
Stevia sp.
Naturalized.
Persea gratissima, G.
Microsechium
Ximenia americana,
Exostemraa
Terminalia Catappa, L.
Chocon.
con, Zacapa.
con,
Rondeletia
Jussifca repens, L.
Antigua,
Amatitlan.
San Sambucus
Pauses,
sp.).
coccinellifera, Mill.
Loranthaceae.
Felipe,
sp.
Cereus (2
Opuntia
chic.
Watson.
Living-
Lucuma mammosa,
multifiora, A.
Jasminum
Allamanda
Rio Chocon.
G.
DC.
Chocon.
(?)
Naturalized.
officinale, L.
Rio Chocon,
cathartica, L.
Rio Polochic.
edulis, Sims.
guatemalensis Watson.
Chocon.
choconiana, Watson,
Vinca
rosea, L.
Plumeria rubra L.
of
lunata, Willd.
bers
coriacea, Juss.
Chocon.
Antigua.
quadrangularis, L.
(?)
this
Several
family
Asclepias curassavica, L.
mem-
on
Rio
Livingston,
Uspantan, Antigua.
El Mico, small
plant with veined leaves, Chocon. Limnanthemum Humboldtianum, Gr.
Lagoons, Rio Chocon.
Turnera sp. San Pedro.
suaveolens,
(Brugmansia)
Aristolochia, sp. with immense blos- Datura
3 sp. Rio Chocon,
soms.
Roatan.
Humb., Bonpl.
Izabal.
APPENDIX.
429
Physalis peruviana, L.
Acrocomia sclerocarpa.
Capsicum
Cocos nucifera, L.
frutesceus, L.
aniiuum, L.
Jutiapa and
Crescentia Cujete, L.
dry-
uplands generally.
Jacaranda sp.
Fine
Bignoniaceae.
3 sp.
Bactris balanoidea,
Wendl.
cohune, Watson.
tree,
Chocon.
Chocon
Twenty-five
lected at
forests,
Izabal.
Chocon.
sp.
palms were
col-
Antigua.
Achiraenes
Batatas,
coccinea,
Pers.
Lam.
Calonyction
sp.
vulacese noticed.
Cuscuta
sp.
Crinum
Zacapa.
Smilax
Escuintla.
L.
Salvia coccinea,
Quiche.
Jutiapa.
Jutiapa.
Esc^uipulas.
Golfete.
Jaccj.
Tillandsia (2 sp.).
Heliconia Bihai, L.
Ayacahuite, Erenb.
sp.
Rio Dulce.
Pansos, Quirigua.
Renealmia
Lindl.
sp.
Zinziber sp.
sp.
Monstera
(2 sp.).
Aroids of
many
sp.
Livingston, Chocon.
Rio Chocon.
sp.
sp.).
Chocon.
HBK.
oleracea.
Ornithocephalus
Pottsise,
Watson.
Livingston.
Desmoncus sp.
Acrocomia vinifera, Oersted.
Chixoy Valley.
Maranta (2
iridifolium.
edulis.
Oreodoxa
Chixoy
Pita.
macrophylla, Parlat.
Typha
Izabal,
Karatas, Lemair.
Abies
Chocon.
3 other sp.
Avicennia nitida,
filifolia,
Rio Dulce.
sp.
officinalis.
Valley.
Jose.
sp.
Cayo
(?)
P(jlochic.
Heliotropium curassavicum, L.
Lantana
Karw.
ixtli,
Quamoclit, L.
APPENDIX.
430
LIST OF
full
much
a voliirae
brief list of
some
we have been
of the
more important
titles
may
aid those
who
it
worth
tourists
Se-
1590.
Adam, Lucien.
Du
1786-89.
y,
^
^
y..
vols.
An
b}'
Baldwin, John D.
ology.
New
York, 1872.
APPENDIX.
Bard,
431
1855.
2 vols.
Bateman, James.
1843.
Berlin, 1882.
London,
fol.
Bates, H.
W.
Memorias para
Belaez, Garcia.
Guatemala.
Belly, Felix.
Guatemala, 1851.
The
le
Nicaragua
et le
Paris, 1867.
Naturalist in Nicaragua
and Forests.
antiguo reino de
2 vols.
Canal Interoceanique.
Belt, Thomas.
London, 1878.
la historia del
London, 1874.
Fr. Pedro.
a Narrative of a resi-
Mexico, 1746;
Benzoni, Girolamo.
Venice,
1556.
History of the
1572.
(First ed.
new World.
1565.)
Travels
1541-
English Translation,
Biologia-Centrali- Americana
of the
Fauna
and
Flora
or.
of
Mexico
and
Central
America.
London, 1879.
Across Central America. London, 1877.
J. W.
Bonnycastle, R. H. Spanish America or, a Descriptive, Historical, and Geographical Account of the Dominions of Spain in the
Western Hemisphere, Continental and Insular. London, 1818.
Bodham-Wetham,
2 vols.
BoTURiNi, Benaducci.
New
York, 1841.
APPENDIX.
432
et traduction
Paris, 18G1.
fran9aise en regard.
Grammaire de
parallel avec ses
la
langue Quichee
d'oeil
espagnole-frau^aise mise en
deux
sur
Paris,
1862.
civilisation
'^
fiir
den Welthandel,
Berlin, 1849.
etc.
Der
Btam, George.
Wild Life
Berlin, 1850.
Lon-
America.
don, 1849.
del Rio.
b^-
1822.
la
Merida.
Casas, Bartolomeo de las. Narratio regionum indicarum per Hispanos quosdam devastatarum. Francofort, 1598. De Bry.
An
b}'
Account
Of
tion hitherto
pub
the First
the Spaniards in
America
lished
With
Containing
further
APPENDIX.
Casas, Bishop of Chiapa,
433
London, 1G99.
Casas, Bartolomeo de las.
ties.
(A copy
is
in the
Force.
Library at Washington.)
Historia de las Indias, ahora por primera vez dada a luz por
Marques de
1875-76.
la
J.
S.
Ra^on.
el
Madrid,
5 vols.
le Due.
Paris, 1863.
49 folio plates.
Les Anciennes Villes du Nouveau Monde. Vo3-ages d'Explorations au Mexique et dans I'Amerique centrale, 1857-1882.
Paris,
1885.
4 vols.
Histor}' of
Paintings, etc.
1807.
2 vols.
Don J. G. Mara.
London, 1826. 2 vols. Maps and curious plates.
CocKBURN, John. A Journey over Land from the Gulf of Honduras to
the Great South Sea. Performed by J. C. and Five Other Englishmen. London, 1735.
CoGOLLUDo, Diego Lopez. Los tres Siglos de la dominacion EspaHistoria Antigua de Megico traducida por
2 vols.
8vo.
hf. bd.
Campeche, 1842;
Merida, 1845.
De
28
APPENDIX.
434
Translated by
G. Lockhart.
las plantas
de Yucatan.
Merida, 1874.
>
London, 1829.
month's Residence.
Antiquites Mexicaines
DuPAix, Capt.
ditions
Fr.
Paris, 1834.
Diego.
<
les diverses
expe-
See Kingsborough.
Nueva Espana y
Mexico, 1867.
~><^
pp. 328.
contenant
Palenque.
DuRAN,
8vo.
;
"
ftir
Berlin, 1869.
Dr. Frantzius has also translated from Palaeio the " San
Honduras
Fuentes y Guzman.
New
in
In
Erdkunde."
1576"
Salvador and
(1873).
Madrid, 1882.
Notes on the Geolog}' of Costa Rica. In American Journal of Science and Art, November, 1874, and March, 1875.
Gage, Fr, Tiio^ias. New Survey of the West Indies. 2d edit. Lon1609.
edition.
Gabb, William M.
edit.
1699, 8vo.
la
Guerra de Castas en
APPENDIX.
GoMARA, Francisco Lopez
435
Historia general
de.
cle
las
Indias.
Anvers, 1554.
Pleasant Historie of the Conquest of the
West
now
Indies,
called
New
Black letter.
lated by T. Nicholas anno 1578.
Gonzales, Dario.
Compendio de Geografia de Centro-America.
Guatemala, 1881.
Granados y Galvez, Jose Joaquin. Tardes Americanos. Mexico,
1778.
Habel, Dr.
1883.
Wash-
ington, 1879.
Haefken,
I.
Hakluyt
Society's Publications.
Gravenhage, 1828.
Expedition to Honduras,
Hassaurek, F.
Discover}' of
America
Cortez's
London, 1868.
etc.
London,
1868.
Helps, Arthur.
}'
tierra firmedeel
6 vols.
Vues des
2 vols.
le
Royaume de
4 to, Atlas
folio.
Cordilleres, et
Paris, 1810.
Monumens
69 PI.
Nouvelle Espagne.
Another
edition,
5 vols.
fol.
Paris,
8 vo.
APPENDIX.
436
Kleinere Schriften. Umrisse von Vulkanen aus den Cordilleran von Quito and Mexico. Stuttgart,
1853.
8 vols.
4to.
Atlas.
IxTLiLxocnTL.
anciens rois de
London, 1823.
Kingsborodgh's Antiquities of Mexico.
vols,
folio.
London, 1830-
1848.
Dc
LAFERRii;RE.
Paris a Guatemala.
Paris, 1867.
Brasseur de Bourbourg.
Edited
b}'
Paris, 18G4.
Paris, 1877.
Bibliotheea Americana
deux Ameriques
Paris, 1878.
See Breton-Raj'mond.
Dictionnaire Caraibe-franjais.
Leclercq.
Rennes, 1665.
Lemale, Carlos. Guia geografica descriptiva de los Centros de
Poblaciou de la Republica de Guatemala. Guatemala, 1881.
Levy, S. Notas geograficas y economicas sobre la Republica de
Nicaragua.
Lizana.
Paris, 1873.
Mahogany-Tree
y notas.
Mexico,
770.
and how to
select
and cut
in the
del P. F.
Is.
delineado en la Vida
F. de Espinoza.
Mexico,
1737.
Martyr, Petrus.
III.
Basileae, 1533.
APPENDIX.
Apuntamientos
Marure, a.
de Centre America,
para
la
en
publicados
437
historia
de
la
revoliicion
1829.
Maudslay, a.
p.
Usumacinta.
cal Societ}'.
city
Belize, 1872.
Publicado
Mexico, 1870.
ings poor.)
pendencia de
la
Espana (1821), precidida de una " Noticia Hisa las naciones que habitaban la America Central a
de los Espanoles.
Guatemala, 1879.
(A
2 vols.
very
valuable work, extending onl}- to the year 168G, owing to the death
of the author.)
Moke.
et
(In-
v. d.
Histoire des
Peuples Americains.
(Cited by Brasseur de
Bourbourg.)
Molina, Felipe.
Folio.
Bosquejo de
la Repiiblica
Madrid,
de Costa Rica.
1850.
Montgomery, G. W.
1838.
New
etc., in
York, 1839.
I'lle
de
Paris, 1870.
From
London, 1871.
Morris, D.
The Colony of British Honduras,
M. F.
Squier.
Prospects
its
its
Resources and
it.
London,
n. d.
^
(^n
APPENDIX.
438
Morris, D.
Liberian Coffee
Jamaica,
its
Le Signc de
MoRTiLLET, G. DE.
Paris,
Kingston,
n. d.
la
Croix avant
le
Christiauisme.
1866.
Norman, B. M.
Rambles
Yucatan including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zaj'i, and Uxmal. New York,
1843.
(Contains a Ma3'a Vocabulary and Grammar.)
Nunez de la Vega. Constituciones diocesanas del Obispado de
Chiapas, etc.
Guatemala, 1701.
Ordonez, Ramon de. Historia del cielo }' de la tierra, etc. MS. in
in
Mexico, 1866.
Mexico.
de.
Historia general y
natural de las Inclias Islas y Tierra Firme del Mar Oceano. Sevilla,
1535.
Another edition, by Amador de los Rios. Madrid, 1855.
vols, folio.
Paterson, William.
/*^
redactados por
el
Ilmo.
3 vols.
8vo.
XVI
t.
6,
1847.)
APPENDIX.
Rau, Charles.
Museum
at
edge, 1879,
439
331.)
Rayon, D. Ignacio. Proceso de Pedro de Alvarado y Nuno de Guzman, con notas del Licenciado D. J. Fernando Ramirez. Mexico,
1847.
R^iCHARDT, C. F. Centro-Amerika. Nach den gegenwiirtigen ZustJinden des Landes und Volkes, in Beziehung der beiden Oceane und
Braun-
schweig, 1854.
Remesal,
3'
Fr.
Antonio.
y Guatemala.
Madrid,
1620.
la
lengua
Mame
mala, 1880.
Roman, HIERO^^MO.
Republicas del
Mundo
Tercei'a Parte,
De
la
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Ensayo sobre la interpretacion de la Escritura
RosNY, Leon de.
Hieratica de la America Central. (Traslado) Madrid, 1881. Folio.
200 copies. The original Essai sur le Dechiffrement de I'Ecriture
Republica de las Indias Occidentales.
Paris, 1883.
MS.
APPENDIX.
440
I'ecrlture liiera-
tique 3'ncatL'que.
Historia de
la
Conquista de Mexico.
Mexico, 1829.
Historia de
Nueva
Espaiia.
Mexico, 1829-30.
Historia
3 vols.
Nueva Espana.
8vo.
1830-48.
(See Kingsborough.)
Antiquites Mexicaines.
Paris, 1804.
Folio.
Salisbury, Stephen.
Tlie
San Buenaventura,
Mexico, 1684.
Fr.
I'Amerique Centrale.
1870.
XV,
Heft
1.)
1857.
A'ols.
8vo.
in its
SoLis,
todo
lo
cionde
tocante
las
quisitiones de
Indiarum
Madrid, 1648.
Jure"
(1629-39).
Reten-
translation of
" Dis-
Another edition
in
1776.
folio, 2 vols.
-X
al
mesmas
New York,
Sonnenstern.
Squier, E. G.
1859.
the Geographi-
APPENDIX.
441
Squier, E. G.
rich, 1884.
Stout, Peter F.
Strangeways, Thomas.
a Descrip-
Philadelphia, 1859.
Edinburgh,
1822.
Svo.
de sus
quista, conversion,
Madrid, 1723.
the best.
to
the Pio-Perez
Manuscripts.
(Proc.
la
-^
republique
Avril, 1860.
de Guatemala.
Paris.
Verea.
Calepino.
Veytia.
(Vocabulary.)
X.
APPENDIX.
442
Historia de la Conquista de
Provincia de
trional.
el Itza,
Madrid, 1701.
Leip-
zic, 1857.
Wagner, M.
Stuttgart, 1870.
et archeologique dans la
Voyage pittoresque
Paris, 1838.
Folio.
Paris, 1866.
Folio.
Walker, William.
York, 1857.
Walker's Expedition to Nicaragua
American
all
War and
accurate
Map
together with a
Memoir and
new and
Portrait of
INDEX.
INDEX.
[Illustrations are
Abutilons,
marked by
italic
pagination.]
88.
Acacia, 192.
Acajutla, 11.
Acorns in bark, 110.
Armor, coats
Army, 296.
Asamblea Nacional,
Aguan
River,
Arms
of Guatemala, 281.
Ass at Jutiapa,
101.
Akahales, 261.
Atitlan,
Lago
at, 153.
Avocado
Alaguilac, 278.
Alajuela, railroad, 22.
Alcaldes, 146.
Alenian, Hotel, i)l, 92.
pear, 366.
Azacualpa, 192.
Bahama
grass, 369.
pear, 366.
shot, 75, 371.
Bananas, 351.
Alniuerzo, 30.
Altar of Tohil, 122.
Banos de Medina,
widow of,
Amapala, 16.
11.
Barillas,
dies, 389.
ruins
M.
27.
33.
in exile, 290.
de, 9, 174.
president, 291.
159.
visited, 180.
of, 161.
to, 274.
leaf-cutting, 413.
Ciudad Vieja,
Escuintla, 172.
Apes, origin
Bath.)
L., 145.
Barrack Point,
Barracks, Livingston,
Barrancas, 87, 157.
Barrios, J. R. 149.
Aniatitlan, 174.
Laguna
(.^ee
Barbasco, 213.
Barbecue, 50.
Antigua,
292.
194.
boat
9.
Aguardiente monopoly,
Aguas
of, 258.
defensive, 258.
of, 234.
160.
INDEX.
446
Cannibalism, 249.
Canoa, 66.
Cantaras, 117.
vampire, 45.
Bay
Campo
Beans, 365.
Belgian Colony, 36, 60.
Guatemala,
River,
Quiche, 119.
Coban, 98.
Beetles, 374.
8.
Bibliography, 430.
Birds of Guatemala, 374.
210.
182.
9.
Caribs, 271.
Boas, 62.
Carillo, 22.
Boat
Carmen, Church
at Atitlan, 153.
of, 179.
Amatitlan, 174.
Boca-nueva Valley, 79.
Bonaca
Cartago, 9, 22.
destroyed, 391.
tomb
Island, 17.
Botlass-fly, 375.
Bourbourg, Brasseur
Brand on
de, 230.
mare,
Volcan
Cartina,
slaves, 267.
Cassava,
102.
of, 178.
de, 383.
Lago
de, 10.
32, 305.
grating, 32.
ropes, 107.
vines, 79.
Cayo Paloma,
42.
Cazuela, 82.
Cecropia-tree, 57.
Cedar, 337.
Bullfight, 185.
Ceiba-tree, 49.
Bulls, gentle, 82
Sacapulas, 115.
Cenotes, 53, 385.
Burial-ground, 119.
Centipedes, 374.
16.
de, 16.
Eiver,
9, 75.
Cane heads,
207.
2.
lakes, 9.
Cerbatana, 236.
Cerna, defeated, 290.
president, 289.
lassoed, 210.
Canajpii,
modern,
rivers, 7.
Cactus, 114.
Cahabon
162.
Champa building,
56.
Chaniperico, 145.
Chicaman,
108, 110.
INDEX.
447
Conch, trumpet,
Cliimalmat, 236.
Chiote, 366.
Chiquimula, 208.
Congrehoy Peak,
River,
Constitution, 286.
drink, 422.
planting, 255.
Kiver, 44.
Chontales, 18.
Chorti language, 278.
Church, Carmen,
Coban, ^J^.
i~9.
confiscation, 292.
Quezaltenango,
143.
Coban,
99.
Circumcision, 247.
City of Belize, steamer, 74.
Ciudad Vieja, 160.
destroyed, 388.
Civil service, Quiche', 253.
384.
Conquistadores, 282.
8.
Valley, 114.
Chocolate, 34G.
Chocon
76.
want
of, 422.
Climbing-palm, 332.
Cloth pattern, 'J5.
Coatepeque, Lago de, 401.
man made
trials, 318.
Coyote, 371.
Crab-catching, 240.
Creation of world, 233.
man,
Criba,
235.
Laguna
Cuajinicuilapa, 191.
Cuartillo, 102.
Indio, 99.
Cuilapa, 191.
Cuchuniatanes,
Cockscomb Range,
6.
Coconut, 358.
young, 360.
Cocos, 365.
de, 10.
Cross-breeding, 421.
Cross on monoliths, 220.
church, 04.
Plaza, 94.
Cobre, 359.
Cochineal, 837.
from, 235.
6.
Culhuacan, 229.
Cunen, 111.
Currency of Guatemala,
305.
Cuscatlan, 261.
Danta,
370.
Liberian, 344.
Death-rate,
Coffee, 343.
crop, 344.
Cohune palm,
49, 330.
Coir, 359.
Comajen, 51.
Comal, 71.
Comayagua
plain, 6.
Coniida, 30.
6.5.
Composite, 87.
Desmoncus,
Conch soup,
Devisadero mines,
376.
332.
11.
INDEX.
448
Dogs,
lialf-fed, 83.
Fruits, 368.
Dragon Rock,
Galero, Don
Game, 369.
Earrings,
225.
90.
terms, 390.
Earthquakes, 387.
theory of, 407.
Education, public, 296.
conquered, 269.
founded, 261.
Esencia de cafe, 84.
78.
Granada,
20.
Guatemala
Esquipulas, 201.
Santuario, 202.
Ethnograpliic Chart, 271.
Euphorbia, 84.
Exancul, 141.
Expenses of Guatemala, 303.
Exports of Guatemala, 312.
Heights
Ex-votos, 205.
of mountains, 424.
Henequen,
173.
Hevea
355.
braziliensis, 349.
Eeather-work, 256.
Hikatee, 372.
Ferns, 335.
Ferro-carril del Norte, 62.
Hondo
Honduras,
Hippodrome,
187.
Valley, 207.
13.
Interoceanic Railway,
name
banana, 354.
Horse astray,
pita, 354.
Hospitals, 316.
plantain, 354.
Fish, 373.
Humming-birds
at Ilopango, 403.
fighting, 217.
235.
Hunapu
volcanoes, 191.
Huntoh, king, 258.
Huracan, 233.
Jose, 177.
Frank on Mabel,
199.
nest, 57.
Hunahpu,
Frijoles, 365.
Ideographs, 251.
Iguanas, 47, 372.
Frogs, 373.
Ilocab, 231.
106.
17.
of, 419.
ixtli, .355.
17.
City, 178.
Street, 176.
192.
144.
Garrapatos, 376.
Gil, San, 59.
Girdle- weaving, 252.
varieties, 368.
Escuintla, 164.
Falls of Michatoya,
M., 134.
J.
Goyavas, green,
Espina blanca,
392.
55.
INDEX.
Ilopango, Lago de, 402, 403.
449
Lemons, 358.
Lempa, Rio, 10.
Lempira rebels, 283.
Leon founded, 20.
Libertad, 11.
Libraries in Guatemala, 301.
Indigo, 337.
Ixils, 278.
Limas, 358.
Limes, 358.
Limestone corroded,
Limon, Puerto, 22.
Lion bird, 46.
Iximcbe, 259.
Listones, 95.
Livingston, 28.
1(38.
Lago
54, 55.
death-rate, 65.
de, 224.
landing, 26.
street, 28.
Iztayul, 231.
Lobelias, 88.
Logwood, 337.
Lomalarga mines,
Los Amates, 214.
11.
Jaguilla, 370.
Machete,
Mafia
Mahogany,
Mail-service, 307.
65.
(devil), 275.
-335.
Mam,
230.
Mama-caixon,
Guatemala, 165.
Juan, San, Rio, 9.
263.
Jutiapa, 193.
Man
Man
Kataore, 126.
Kingdom of Guatemala,
1.
created, 234.
on
fire,
159.
Treaty of,
Manatee, 370.
Manihot, 365.
Labor wage,
Mango,
Kings of Quiche',
253.
314.
21.
367.
Mangroves, 323.
Lacandones, 8.
Ladron at Quiche, 127.
Lago, Amatitlan, 174.
Mapachines, 370.
Maps, 256.
Guija, 10.
Mare sunstruck,
Lamp,
Marimba, 122,123.
Markets in Guatemala,
La Paz, 192.
La Tinta, 81.
La Union, 11.
188.
Mask
relics, 224.
Lemoa,
172.
to bridle a, 155.
native, 98.
Las Quebradas
20.
in
Matagalpa mines,
19.
22.
Mecapal, 78.
Merendon, Sierra
127.
29
del, 6.
450
INDEX.
Mcrnmids in cliurch,
Mel ill If, 70, oGo.
112.
Palenque, 229.
Kin,' 8.
Palin, 173.
Palms, 328.
Palo Cortez, 211.
Panajachel, 155.
Panela, 105, 342.
Pansos, 9, 76.
Papaya, 366.
Paper, 256.
Money
Monkeys,
30',).
Monte
Patzun, 157.
Kico, 198.
JVIonteziiina's
embassy, 262.
Pawpaw,
366.
Peccaries, 370.
Petaca making,
21.
276.
Pier,
Kaiioas, 229.
Pine-needles, 110.
Names
Pipiles, 271.
of towns, 418.
Ne\vsi)apers, 301.
Pit-craters, 401.
Nicaragua,
18.
de, 10.
Volcanoes, 383.
Nopal. ,338.
Nutmegs,
Ocos,
.302.
Puerto
de, 172.
Pitpans,
8.
Ocote, 76.
Pocomam women,
Pocomams,
275.
262.
Poconchi Indios,
Poknoboy palm,.331.
Omoa, 10.
Montana
97.
Naciian, 229.
Lago
65.
82.
Opals, 14.
Oranges, 357.
cheap, 109.
'J'eleman, 80.
Organs
in church, 128.
Orchids, 333, 428.
Potato-fields, 136.
INDEX.
Prayer, Quiche, Cliristian, 417.
President Barillas, 145.
451
Rey
portentoso, 232.
Barrios, 149,
pounding,
Carrera, 288.
Cerna, 289.
Rivas, 18.
Road-building, 106.
Granados, 200.
Roatan,
how
Rock
elected, 293.
17.
Island, 43.
Rocket-making, 160.
Primavera,
356.
105.
Roof-tile, 89.
Prisons, 116.
Roses, 87.
Rosewood, 337.
Don
Rozales,
Aloiizo, 193.
Quirigua, 217.
Utatlan, 120.
Sacapulas,
Caballos, 16.
Limon,
Chixoy Valley,
22.
371.
Pumice,
114.
Pulque, 355.
Puma,
115.
Plaza, lis.
Cortez, 16.
174.
Saccharine, 64.
319.
Sacrificatorio, 122.
Sacrifice,
human,
Pupuluca, 271.
249.
at Ilopango, 491.
to Tohil, 240.
Qualm-tree,
Salcaja, 140.
57.
Salm-wood, 337.
Quaternity, 149.
Quekchi
Indio,
9-3,
277.
Quetzal, 97.
Quetzalcoatl, 229.
Quezaltenango, 141.
Cristobal, 103.
Felipe, 67, 09.
alcaldes, 140.
church, 143.
Quezaltepeque, 206.
Gil, 59.
Jose, 165.
del, 118.
prayer, 417.
ancient, 249.
to
San
168.
Jose', 165.
Eazor of pumice,
153.
Revolution, 283.
Juan, 20.
Miguel, 11.
Tucurii, 84.
Volcan
Santa Ana, 395.
names, 233.
Railroad Map,
de, 396,
Catarina, 196.
Cruz, Alta Verapaz, 90.
breakfast, 103.
Sapote, 131.
Sapoton
fruit, 44.
INDEX.
452
Saquinimac, 237.
Sarsaparilla, 350.
Sarstun, Rio, 8.
Sauce, 70.
Schools in Guatemala, 297.
Scorpions, 374.
Teponaztles, 258.
Theatre, 181.
Theobroma cacao, 346.
Tigres, 371.
Tobacco of Copan,
Segovia, Rio,
9.
Toldo, 66.
Semetabaj, 150.
Serpientc, 36.
men
153.
hemp,
355.
Sonsonate,
Spanish
9.
Chichicastenango, 127.
Tonala, Battle of, 2G6.
Topiltzin Acxitl, 230.
Toranjas, 358.
Tortilla-making, 71, 363.
Totonicapan, 137, 138.
Trachyte, 406.
Trapiche, 196.
in, 89.
15.
11.
stirrup, 184.
Spiders, 374.
Trujillo, 16.
Squashes, 365.
Stamped paper, 102.
Tucurii, 84.
Tula, 229.
Tultecas, 229.
Tultec emigration, 260.
Tun, 258.
Stevia, 112.
Street,
Guatemala
City, 176.
Turtle, 372.
Livingston, 28.
Subsidence, 158.
Suchitan, 195.
Sugar-cane, 340.
Ulua, Rio,
mill, 341.
yield, 39.
Sulphur spring,
9.
crop, 342.
Utila, 384.
63.
Suyacal, 78.
Vado Hondo,
Tactic,
208.
Vampire-bats, 45.
88.
Taltusas, 370.
Vanilla,
Tamahu, 87.
Taxes in Guatemala,
Vara,
303.
3-34.
96.
Vejuco de agua,
Vejucos, 51.
Tecpan Quauhtemalan,
Tecum, 200.
Vine bridge,
160, 259.
54.
79.
Tegucigalpa, 16.
Telegraphs, 306.
Teieman, 80.
Temple, ancient,
cones, 407.
245.
Tenedores, 63.
Terminos, Lago de,
Tepepul, king, 259.
8.
INDEX.
Warree,
453
Xicaques,
370.
17.
Ximenes, 230.
Water-vine,
Wedding
Xmucane,
54.
327.
255.
234.
at Patziin, 158.
Wheat market,
425.
Sololu, 132.
Yam, 365.
Yampux, 262.
Yojoa, Lago de,
10.
Zacapa,
Wizard, 203.
Woman
210.
puros, 211.
created, 235.
411.
Zapotitlan, 266.
Xbalanque,
Ziricote, 337.
235.
Zonipopos, 413.
University Press:
John Wilson
&
Son, Cambridge.
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