Starter Motor Circuit Descriptions

Below are the descriptions of the main circuits that will be tested on this On Car Starter Test:
1. number 1: This is where the battery positive cable from the battery is attached to.
2. number 2: This is the S terminal of the starter Solenoid. This is where the Start/Crank
wire is attached to and the one that delivers the 12 Volts from the ignition switch when
you turn the key to Start.
1. Some vehicles will use a nut to attach this circuit to the starter Solenoid.
2. Other vehicles (mainly Japanese cars & trucks) will have a female spade terminal
instead that mates to a male spade terminal.
3. number 3: The grounding point. The starter motor is grounded thru' its case.

Start With the Battery First

The battery's condition is the most important part of the starter Tests and the first thing that has
to be checked.

There are two parts to this test. Visually checking that the battery terminals for obvious problems
and Testing the battery's voltage with a multimeter.
1. Eye-balling the battery:
1. The battery terminals should not be full of corrosion (like in the photo).
2. The battery terminals should not be loose or broken.
3. If these conditions are present, then clean or replace the battery terminals.
2. Battery voltage test:
1. With a digital multimeter or an analog multimeter test the battery's voltage.
2. A good working battery will show 12.6 Volts. The bare minimum will be 12.3
Volts.
3. Any battery voltage below 12.3 Volts, and you'll need to charge the battery first,
or use a battery jump Box during the tests, or replace it with a known-good
battery.
4. Having a good working battery is important to test the starter on the vehicle.
After cleaning, or repairing the battery terminals, or replacing a BAD battery, or charging a
discharged battery the car or truck may start. If this is the case, well good for you. Further testing
is not required.

TEST 1: Testing the

Start signal from the ignition switch

As mentioned before, the circuit labeled by the number 2 in the photo is commonly known as the
S terminal of the starter Solenoid. Attached to this S Terminal is the wire that comes from the
ignition switch via the Neutral Safety Switch. This is a 12 Volt Signal.
When the key is turned to crank the engine, juice flows from the ignition switch, thru' the Neutral
Safety Switch and onto the S terminal of the starter Solenoid.

On a good and working starter motor, as soon as this 12 Volt Signal is received, the starter motor
comes alive and cranks the engine.
This test verifies the presence of these 12 Volts and indirectly tests the Ignition Switch and the
Neutral Safety Switch. You'll only get one of two results from this test: you'll either get 12 Volts
or not. Let's get started:
1. Step 1:
1. Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands (if applicable).
2. The starter motor must remain connected to all of its cables/wires.
2. Step 2:
1. Attach the BLACK multimeter lead (with an appropriate tool) to the Negative
Terminal of the battery.
2. With a wire-piercing probe or a suitable tool, pierce the wire that is attached to the
S terminal of the starter Solenoid
1. Or if you have enough room, touch the S terminal with the multimeter
lead.
3. Step 3:
1. Put the multimeter in Volts DC mode.
2. Have an assistant turn the key to the Start Position and have him or her hold it
there while you observe the multimeter's voltage reading.
If when your assistant turned the key to the Start position to crank the engine (and kept it there),
and if the multimeter:
1. DID NOT register any voltage, then the starter motor is not the cause of the Does Not
Crank condition. Without these 12 Volts here (when the key is turned to the Start
position) the starter motor will not come out to play. Possible causes for this missing
voltage are:
1. Bad Ignition Switch.
2. Bad Neutral Safety Switch.
3. Go to the test in TEST 2: Adding 12 Volts to the S Terminal Circuit.
2. DID register 10 to 12 Volts, then the Start Signal is being received. The presence of this
voltage confirms that:
1. The Ignition Switch is good.
2. The Neutral Safety Switch is good.
3. The next step is to make sure the starter motor is getting plenty of Power. For this
test, go to the test in TEST 3: Voltage Drop Testing the Power Circuit.

TEST 2: Adding 12 Volts to the S Terminal Circuit

You've reached this Test because you have verified that there aren't 12 Volts (10V - 12V) present
at the S Terminal of the Solenoid when the key is turned to the Start position in TEST 1.
Now we're gonna' apply the 12 Volts ourselves (with a jumper wire or a tool like a Power Probe)
to verify that the starter motor works.
We're gonna' get only one result from this test. And it's that the starter motor should engage the
engine and crank it.
1. Step 1:
1. With the vehicle still raised and supported on jack stands.
2. And the starter motor connected to all of its cables/wires.
2. Step 2:
1. The Key (Ignition Switch) must be in the Off position (or the car or truck may
start).
3. Step 3:
1. Apply 12 Volts (with a jumper wire or a suitable tool or tools) to the starter
Solenoid's S Terminal or to the wire itself.
The starter motor should engage the engine and crank it. If it does, then now you can be
absolutely certain that the starter motor is good and not the cause of the Does Not Crank
Condition. The most likely causes will be a BAD Ignition Switch or a BAD Neutral Safety
Switch.

TEST 3: Voltage Drop Testing the Power Circuit

In this TEST 3 we're gonna' Voltage Drop Test the Power Circuit of the starter solenoid. This
circuit is represented by the number 1 in the photo. This is where the positive battery cable is
attached to.
The Voltage Drop test will tell us if the starter motor is receiving the full amount of voltage and
amperage to turn over the engine. If corrosion or anything else is causing high resistance and
impeding this flow of juice, this test will tell us.
This test can only be performed with you helper turning the key to the Start position and keeping
it there for the duration of the test.
1. Step 1:
1. With the vehicle still raised and supported on jack stands (if applicable).
2. And the starter motor connected to all of its cables/wires.
2. Step 2:
1. With the multimeter set on Volts DC...
2. Attach one lead (either one, the polarity doesn't matter) to a clean spot on or near
the center of the battery positive post (not the terminal... this is important!).
3. Attach or touch the other lead to the center of the stud to which the battery
positive cable is attached to on the starter solenoid. It's important that the center of
the stud be probed and not the cable's terminal itself.
1. This is the stud labeled by the number 1 on the photo.
3. Step 3:
1. Have your assistant turn the key to the Start position while you observe the
multimeter.
The multimeter will either indicate a zero Voltage Drop or a sizeable Voltage Drop. If the
multimeter:
1. Registered .9 Volts or less, then we can consider this a zero Voltage Drop and this is a
good thing. this voltage value tells us that the battery positive cable is delivering the
complete amount of Voltage and Current to the starter motor.

1. The next step is to make sure that the starter motor is getting plenty of ground.
For this test,go to the TEST 4: Voltage Drop Testing the Ground Circuit.
2. Registered 1 to 7 Volts, then this is considered a High Voltage Drop and this is BAD.
this voltage value tells us that the battery positive cable is NOT delivering the complete
amount of Voltage and Current to the starter motor:
1. This will cause a No Crank condition.
2. Or cause the starter motor to crank the engine very slowly.
3. The most likely cause is a corroded battery positive terminal and or battery
positive post.
4. Or the round terminal that attaches the battery positive cable to the battery
terminal of the starter Solenoid is corroded.
5. Inspect and clean and retest. More than likely the vehicle will now start.

What is a Voltage Drop?

OK, what's a Voltage Drop? and in plain English please!, a Voltage Drop is when the multimeter
helps the juice flow from the battery positive terminal to the starter solenoids battery cable
terminal because a high resistance is blocking this flow thru' the cable itself.

High Voltage Drop

When there's a sizeable Voltage Drop, the multimeter will register voltage. this voltage could be
anywhere in the range of 1 Volt to 7 Volts. And this is BAD because this is a clear indication
that the Voltage from the battery positive post is finding a path of least resistance thru' the
multimeter to get to the starter.
In other words, the voltage and thus current, is unable to completely flow thru' the battery cable
to the starter motor. Whatever amount that can't flow thru' the cable, flows thru' the multimeter.
This is what's called a Voltage Drop.
The most common cause of a high Voltage Drop reading is corrosion on the battery positive
cable terminal or the battery positive post. Inspect and clean and retest.
If you do indeed have a high Voltage Drop, inspecting and cleaning the battery terminal and post
will probably result in the starter motor working and the vehicle starting.

No Voltage Drop
So then, if the multimeter registers .9 Volts or less, we can correctly assume that the battery
cable or its Terminals don't have corrosion or other resistance issues and are letting the full
amount of voltage and more importantly current thru' to the starter motor.
This very very low Voltage Drop reading tells us that the voltage is finding a path of least
resistance thru' the battery cable than thru' the multimeter.

With this result (if this is the result you got from this test) we now can move on the next test.
Testing a starter motor on the car or truck is a pretty easy test. I'll take you thru' this
starter test step by step.
This How to Test the Starter article applies to anything out there rolling around on pavement
(automobile-wise). Whether it's a Ford, Chevrolet, Nissan, Toyota, Honda, or whatever or
wherever on the planet, this info will help you.
The starter on your vehicle (car, pick-up, van, mini-van, etc.) may not resemble the starter motor
on the photo. This is no cause for concern. Your starter motor will be similar and IS tested in the
way described in this article.

Common Symptoms of a BAD Starter

Before we start you may want to know what are some of the most common symptoms of a BAD
starter:
1. When you turn the key to crank the engine, nothing happens. The engine will not turn
over.
2. When you turn the key to crank the engine and all you hear is one loud click. The engine
will not turn over.
3. Or you turn the key to crank the engine and the engine turns over very but very slowly
and then stops.
4. The battery is good. You know that because:
1. You bought a new one thinking that was the solution to the problem.
2. or got someone to help you jump-start the vehicle to no avail.

Summary of the On Car Starter Test

This is a brief summary of the tests we'll be doing to get to the bottom of what's causing a NO
CRANK Condition on your car or truck. In my experience (as an automotive technician), I'd say
that around 80% of the time, the result of this starter test will be that you have a BAD starter on
your hands.
The other 19% percent of the time it'll be a bad battery. The remaining 1% of the time it'll be
some other issue.
With the tests in this How To Test the Starter article you'll be able to either say with absolute
certainty it is a BAD starter motor or completely eliminate it as the cause of the DOES NOT
CRANK Condition. These are the testing steps:
1. Test the battery first. This is a simple multimeter test.

2. Test that the starter motor is receiving 12 Volts on its Battery Circuit.
3. Test that the starter motor is receiving the Start signal from the ignition switch.
4. Voltage Drop Test the starter battery and ground Circuits. These two tests are very easy.
I'll explain them step by step.
5. Using a Jumper-Wire or an appropriate tool, apply 12 volts to the Start signal wire.
6. Turning the engine by hand to eliminate a locked-up engine or a locked-up A/C
Compressor.
7. If necessary, bench-testing the starter motor.

Safety Guidelines to Test the Starter Motor

The only thing that complicates the testing of the starter motor is its location on the engine. Some
vehicles have it hidden in the back of the engine under the Intake Manifold. Some vehicles have
it right up front in view and with lots of space to physically access it.
It doesn't matter where it's at, these tests apply. Whether the starter motor has to be accessed
from the bottom of the vehicle or not here are some safety guidelines.
1. If you have to lift up the car or truck to access the starter motor:
1. Use jack-stands to support the car or truck off the ground.
2. Use safety glasses while working underneath the vehicle.
2. You'll need a helper:
1. To crank the engine as you perform some of the tests.
2. To help you perform the very important Voltage Drop Test.
3. When jumpering 12 Volts to the S terminal wire (circuit) make sure you don't short-toground your jumper wire.
4. Be careful, take all safety precautions and use common sense.

TEST 4: Voltage Drop Testing the Ground Circuit

You've reached this test because you have verified that there are 12 Volts (10 - 12) present at the
S Terminal of the solenoid when the key is turned to the Start position and that there is no
Voltage Drop on the Battery Circuit of the starter motor solenoid.
Here we're gonna' see if the starter motor is getting a complete and unobstructed path to ground.
Or if corrosion or anything else is causing high resistance and impeding this flow of juice to
engine ground.
1. Step 1:
1. With the vehicle still raised and supported on jack stands.
2. And the starter motor connected to all of its cables/wires.
2. Step 2:
1. With the multimeter set on Volts DC...
2. Attach one lead (either one, the polarity doesn't matter) to the center of the
Negative (-) Post of the battery (not on the terminal itself).
3. Attach or touch the other lead to an unpainted spot on the starter motor body.
1. A suggested spot is labeled by the number 3 on the photo.
3. Step 3:
1. Have your assistant turn the key to the Start position and have him or her keep it
there (for the entire test) while you observe the multimeter.
The multimeter will either indicate a zero Voltage Drop or a sizeable Voltage Drop. If the
multimeter:
1. Registered .9 Volts or less, this is GOOD and a clear indication that the starter motor's
ground does not have any issues.
1. Go to the TEST 5: Turning the Engine by Hand.
2. Registered 1 to 7 Volts, This is BAD. This indicates that the starter motor's ground has
corrosion issues or the like:
1. This will cause a No Crank condition.
2. Or cause the starter motor to crank the engine very slowly.
3. The most likely cause is a corroded battery negative terminal and or battery
negative post.
4. Or the round terminal that attaches the battery negative cable to the engine block
is corroded.
5. Inspect and clean and retest. More than likely the vehicle will now start.

TEST 5: Turning the Engine by Hand

Another common cause of a Does Not Crank Condition is a locked-up engine due to a thrown
rod or a locked-up AC Compressor. These two conditions can easily lead us to believe that the
starter motor is BAD.
To find out if the engine is locked-up or not, we need to manually turn the engine by hand using
a socket and ratchet (as shown in the photo)
1. Step 1:
1. With the vehicle still raised and supported on jack stands.
2. And the starter motor connected to all of its cables/wires.
3. Key in the Off position or completely removed from the ignition switch.
2. Step 2:
1. Using the appropriate tools, turn the crankshaft pulley by hand.
If Crankshaft Pulley turns. Then the engine is not locked-up and we now can eliminate the
engine as the cause of this Does Not Crank Condition. It's starting to look like the starter motor is
BAD. Go to the TEST 6: Bench-Testing the Starter Motor.
If Crankshaft Pulley DOES NOT turn. There's a good possibility that the engine is indeed
locked-up but we need to perform one more test to make sure. This is to verify that the AC
Compressor is not seized.

Verifying that the AC Compressor Is Not Seized

Since the Crankshaft Pulley drives the AC Compressor, a seized AC Compressor will keep the
Crankshaft from turning. So then, the next step (after ascertaining that the engine can't be
hand cranked) is to remove the drive belt or serpentine belt that turns the AC Compressor.
1. Step 1:
1. With the vehicle still raised and supported on jack stands.
2. And the starter motor connected to all of its cables/wires.
3. Key in the Off position or completely removed from the ignition switch.
2. Step 2:
1. Remove the AC Compressor Drive Belt or the Serpentine Belt.

2. Using the appropriate tools, turn the crankshaft pulley by hand again.
If Crankshaft Pulley turns. Then the AC Compressor is seized and is the cause of this Does
Not Crank Condition. The starter motor is not the cause of the Does Not Crank Condition.
If Crankshaft Pulley DOES NOT turn. The engine is locked-up. The starter motor is not the
cause of the Does Not Crank Condition.

TEST 6: Bench-Testing the Starter Motor

After all of the testing on the previous pages, we've come to the conclusion that the starter motor
is BAD and we can now remove the starter to go out and buy another (or have it rebuilt).
With the starter motor off, we can perform one more (and the last) test. And this is to bench-test
the starter motor.
You may asking yourself... why didn't we start with a bench-test first? Well, the main reason is
that so many things can cause a No Cranking Condition. The only way to eliminate them as the
cause is to begin with a process of elimination that requires the starter motor to be bolted in its
place on the engine.
The tests that are the very core of this very important process of elimination have to start
somewhere logical so that we can find out the real reason the car or truck won't crank. So then,
by following the suggested test steps in this article, you'll be able to pin-point a BAD starter
motor or completely eliminate it as the cause of the No Cranking Condition. Thus saving money
and time by replacing and or repairing the right component.
Alright, I have already written an in depth article on to how to bench-test the starter motor. Just
click on this link: How to Bench Test a Starter Motor (Step by Step).