Professional Documents
Culture Documents
HIGH
COUNTRY
ISSUE
MAKE THIS
YOUR BEST
SUMMER EVER
64
NEW ALPINE
CLIMBS &
SKILLS
EAT BETTER,
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AUGUST 2014
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FLASH
34
Training
36
Nutrition
THE APPROACH
17
Editors Note
18
Letters
Archives
19
Re-Gram
20
THE CLIMB
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: PIERRE CHRISTE; CHEYNE LEMPE; KATE BELLM; ANDREW BURR; BRETT AFFRUNTI; BEN FULLERTON; COURTESY
26
28
32
GUIDE
39
Instant Expert
GEAR
Primer
42
Tested
43
The Kit
Epicenter
40
Advice
45
CLINICS
Begin Here
46
In Session
48
Guides Tip
51
VOICES
Whats up with
climbers hunchbacks?
52
54
Semi-Rad
An exploration of
Stanley style in a
remembrance of Sean
Stanley Leary.
Sloproping, and why
you should feel guilty
about itor not.
88 THE
Cover photo by Thomas Schermer: Daniel Olausson takes in the morning light on Mon Gout (V9/7c), Frstasidan, Sweden.
FLOW
CLIM BING.CO M
|3
ANDREW BURR
70 Roped Up in
Arabia
The Middle East
is a treasure trove
of secret surprises, including
the climbing oasis
Wadi Rum, with its
giant sandstone
walls. Adventurer
and writer Nancy
Prichard-Bouchard
reveals this vertical
paradise with an
in-depth look at the
routes, the community, and the rise
of climbing in one
of the worlds most
volatile regions.
80 Editors Choice
Classic
Theres a class of
gear that rises above
the rest. As a matter
of fact, some of us
are still using models
of belay devices and
climbing shoes that
originally hit the
market more than
20 years ago. Here is
a testament to those
time-tested, muchloved pieces of gear
that every climber
should have in his
arsenal.
Issue 327. Climbing (USPS No. 0919-220, ISSN No. 0045-7159) is published ten times a year (February, March, April, May, July, August, September, October, November, December/January) by SkramMedia LLC. The known ofce of publication is at 2520 55th St., Suite 210, Boulder, CO 80301. Periodicals postage paid at Boulder, CO, and at additional mailing ofces. POSTMASTER: Send address changes
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DITCH THE
GUIDEBOOK
FLASH
Rob Pizem
Datura (5.12-)
Zion National Park, Utah
8 | AUGUST 20 14
JEREMIAH WATT
CLIM BING.COM
|9
FLASH
Frdric Moix
Chris Sharma
FLASH
Hayden Kennedy
FLASH
Hazel Findlay
Unknown
Musandam Peninsula,
Oman
THE
APPROACH
CONTRIBUTORS
ANGIE PAYNE
The more I write, the more I
see similarities between writing and climbing. I could easily obsess for days, if not weeks,
months, or (gasp) years about
getting tiny things just right,
says pro climber Angie Payne
in regard to her essay on alpine
bouldering. As youll see on
page 65, her obsession pays of.
NANCY PRICHARDBOUCHARD
Our longtime friend Nancy
Prichard-Bouchard, Ph.D., is
a prolic writer and former
pro climber, based in Bend,
Oregon. She was the executive
editor of Rock and Ice in the
early 1990s, during what she
refers to as its golden years,
and her byline has appeared
in Backpacker, Mens Journal,
Outside, and Playboy, among
others. In this issue, she writes
about the climbing scene in
Jordan (p. 70). Its history in
the making, she says.
EDITORS NOTE
Work for It
After rowing 1,000 meters for time and completing an unholy series of high pulls, back squats, curl-and-presses, pushups, Romanian dead lifts, and kettlebell slashers, the oor is
splattered with the sweat-rain of eight exhausted climbers and skiers.
Workouts like these are a special brand of fun. I mean it; I love escaping
my desk for a midday session that feels like a whole days worth of action
packed into 60 minutes. Its a blast. But there are better things.
Nice work, everyone! says Connie Sciolino, owner and head coach at
the Alpine Training Center, which is down the street from our Boulder,
Colorado, headquarters. Wheres everyone of to this weekend? Answers range from late-late-season ski laps (it was a great snow year) to
an area 10k to braving Boulder Creek Tyrols (likewise an epic snowmelt
year) for some multi-pitch trad. Its these things, the activities that inspire and dene us and our goals within them that truly matter, not a
new one-round max. Training is fun, but it isnt the end. Its the means
to an end of ticking new goals and growing as a climber.
Senior Editor Julie Ellison and I will soon be heading to Wyomings
Wind River Range to attempt the Cirque Traverse, a link-up of each of
the peaks in the Cirque of the Towers. Our specially designed Cirque Traverse training program starts on page 34, and itll get you on your way to
your alpine goal, too. Give me 50 burpees, then turn the page.
HIGHLIGHTS
FROM THE
JOURNEY
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: BEN FULLERTON; KEITH LADZINSKI; COURTESY (2); ANDREW BURR; KATE BELLM
BY SHANNON DAVIS
KEL ROSSITER
A Washington state native,
Kels rst alpine experience
was an all-cotton ascent
of 12,280-foot Mount Adams. He has since become
an AMGA-certied rock
and alpine guide, and now
operates Adventure Spirit
Rock+Ice+Alpine Experiences
(adventurespiritguides.com).
Hes also quite the high country chef. Get his best advice on
tools and technique in Alpine
Cooking School (p. 48).
Rocking out
Sloproping
Eating pie
Thriving up high
CLIM BING.CO M
| 17
UNSOLICITED BETA
Your May issue concerning Dennis
Horning (Dirty Dingus McGee and the
Reese Mountain Gang) brought back
fond memories of the late 1960s. I was one
of the four climbers who introduced Dennis to rock climbing in the Black Hills of
South Dakota. My climbing friends (Tom
Higgins, Bob Kamps, and Dave Rearick)
and I were preparing for a rst ascent of a
modestly difcult pinnacle (5.6/5.7) when
Mr. Horning appeared on the scene. His
friendliness, engaging personality, and
eagerness led us to invite him to join the
climb. Upon reaching the summit, we
built a cairn and named the pinnacleyou
guessed itHorning In.
Mark Powell,
Woodland Hills, California
DIRTBAG DREAMING
KEEP IN TOUCH
letters@climbing.com
/climbingmagazine
@climbingmag
@climbingmagazine
OVERHEARD
Whos to say Mr. (Sean) McColl hasnt been to Hueco before and tried these problems over and over until
they are all but memorized? Wouldnt this give him an unfair advantage? From now on, lets keep it fair,
and have rock climbing competitions where they belong: gyms.
Wesley Summers, on his blog Rock Climbing Life. The jury is still out on
Summers authenticity. He may be the climbing worlds greatest troll yet.
Yeah, thats popping up everywhere now. Hes famous for falling in a hole.
Woman belaying in Boulder Canyons Sport Park, regarding the mainstream news
coverage of John Alls crevasse fall and subsequent rescue.
I used to climb at Movement [climbing gym], but it just seemed too articial.
Boulder, Colorado, climber at a local brewery event, upset because his
man-made climbing gym is too man-made.
18 | AUGUST 2 014
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 1978
MEMORY LANE
ARCHIVES
On The Cover
An anonymous climber on Ben Nevis in Scotland. Photographer
Rob Taylor would later achieve notoriety for an expedition that
went awry with Henry Barber. The pair were attempting an ascent
of the then-unclimbed Breach Wall on Mount Kilimanjaro. Taylor
suffered a bad break in his leg, requiring rescue. Barber hiked out
to get help, leaving Taylor to waitcold and alone on Kilimanjaro
for ve days before help arrived. The story is recounted in Taylors
book The Breach: Kilimanjaro and the Conquest of Self.
The placement of a Friend takes much less time and effort than
does the placement of a traditional chock. If you will agree with
me that a major factor in doing a difcult crack climb is endurance, and that climbing fast is of utmost importance, would not
the use of Friends then signicantly aid in the climbers chances
of success? Put into other words, would the climber be able to
climb a certain pitch without the use of Friends? Is the climber
relying on Friends to complete the pitch? Steven Levin
[Levin] fails to see the sophisticated technology represented in
nylon rope, wired stoppers, and EBs. Technology provides us with
a safer, more enjoyable climbing experience. Friends are possibly
the biggest technical breakthrough since the nylon rope. The door
to a new realm of climbing potential
has been opened up. They make a
lot of climbs easier granted, but we
move on. Jim Bridwell
Lef: A climber prepares for
Mount Huntington wearing the
standard Alaskan mountaineers
uniform of 1978.
OBVIOUS LINES
VIRTUAL DISCUSSION
Other
Nylon runner around a
natural feature
Tricam in a horizontal crack
Solid hex placement
35
*Source:
Climbing reader survey. Join at climbing.com/readerpanel.
Comments
RE-GRAM
No electricity, no water, no
heat. An incredible, simple
lifestyle in Camp 4.
The big dogs lower over the edge during a very challenging El
Cap rescue.
Professional climbing
athletes are ofen times
the worst perpetrators,
hogging climbs theyve
done hundreds of times,
particularly if someone
wants to point a camera at
them, which seems to be
all the bloody time. Their
sense of entitlement stems
from the fawning attitudes
of the gear companies that
sponsor them. As little
climbing-gear mannequins,
they infest the crags like
Mountain Hardwear/OR/
Patagoniaclad pubic lice.
Rob - 05/09/2014
3:23:15
CLIM BING.COM
| 19
BY KEVIN CORRIGAN
We rst learned of Shred All Fear from their video, Moab Madness!!! (climbing.com/shred). In it,
the band climbs Ancient Art with magnicent mustaches on their faces, masculine mullet wigs on
their heads, and electric guitars on their backs. Its ridiculous and amazing. When we reached out to
Shred All Fear about an interview, they responded with this list of demands:
1. Everyone always wants to know about the thousands of nameless groupies we party with on tour, but we
will NOT comment on our sexual adventures. Lets be professional here.
2. Any mention of the words mullet or mustache will be preceded or followed by the appropriate adjectives, e.g.,
magnicent, glorious, overwhelming, sensual, masculine, etc. [ed.: see above.]
3. If any exclusive photos are requested for the article, we will need you to y Kenny f***ing Loggins to us for the
shoot. If Kenny is not available, Tom Cruise will do.
4. And nally, a mixtape of all of your favorite high school heartbreak songs we can jam to on the next tour!
Rex BonerJamz Mckenzie and Brock Freedom Aint Free Steel were nice enough to waive demands
one and three, but the following interview was paid for with an eight-song emo CD plus postage.
Describe Shred All Fear for people that arent already familiar.Rex: If
you arent familiar, you must be living under a rock, because everybodys heard of Shred All Fear
Brock: [interrupts] A f ***ing goddamn rock!
Rex: Shred All Fear is a climbing duo from Saturn, whose sole mission
on Earth is to climb rad rocks, support the super stoke, and spread it
throughout the solar system.
VOLTA 9.2
Tie in to a new level of performance.
UNBELAY VABLE!
LESSON: Hey, 35 isnt old! Its denitely not old enough to use hip belays
by default, since the rst belay devices
came out in 1970. The hip belay is a good
technique to know for rolling but still nofall zone alpine terrain. A good hip belay
is all about stance; your legs absorb a
falls impact. If youre standing casually, a
fall would pull you out of your stance and
rip the rope from your hands. Sit down,
brace your feet against something sturdy,
straighten your legs, and prepare to be
pulled toward the climber. (Learn more at
climbing.com/hipbelay)
www.sterlingrope.com
1-800-788-7673
26
24 | AUGUST 2 014
THE
Theres nothing like a sweet alpine view to ignite the psych! In this issue, we go up into the high country
for adventures at altitude. Here, Mike Brumbaugh climbs the lower section of Beckey-Chouinard (5.10) in
the Bugaboos, British Columbia. Put up byyou guessed itFred Beckey and Yvon Chouinard in 1961, this
route is 2,000 feet and 15 pitches of pure fun on South Howser Tower. Summer is time for the high life, so
check out page 56 to forgo the crowds for cooler temps and beautiful blocks at the best alpine bouldering
spots in the country. Plus, weve got skills for moving fast up high and the gear to keep you safe.
LIMB
ANDREW BURR
CLIM BING.COM
| 25
GUIDE
ADVICE
James Lucas climbs the thin Easter Island
(5.12-), Tuolumne Meadows, in the
original dirtbagging heaven: Yosemite,
where Lucas lives part of the year.
BY JAMES LUCAS
1
ANDREW BURR (2)
LESS DREAMING,
MORE DOING
If you want to climb all the
time, the best thing to do is
to start doing it. Get in your
car right now and drive to
the crag. No car? Bike. No
Bike? Walk. Being a dirtbag
isnt about eating somebody
elses leftovers. Its about
realizing your goals. In the
immortal words of heavyweight bodybuilder Ronnie
Coleman, Everybody wanna
be a body builder, aint nobody wanna lift no heavy-ass
weights.
2
EATING WELL
Weve all heard tales of the
gourmet score from a Trader
Joes dumpster, but food is
usually out of pocket. Vegetables, fruits, and nuts cost
a bit more than an ice cream
sandwich from the Yosemite
Lodge, but the better, longlasting energy will keep your
body from breaking down
over the course of so much
climbing. Eating well is like
preventive health care: Spending a bit more on good grub is
saving in the long run. You are
less apt to get sick, your body
will be stronger, and ultimately
you will climb harder.
3
REMEMBERING MY
MOTIVATION
Earlier this spring, my Saturn
station wagon died just
outside Yosemite. I lost my
wheels and my home. Werner
Braun, one of the original
Stonemasters and a member
of Yosemite Search and Rescue, pronounced my rig dead
after a few days of working
on it. Having no money, no
car, and no home is a legit
reason to weep. But thats not
why Im out here. It motivated
me to climb harder than ever.
When you have nothing, you
go climbing. The rock knows
no difference.
4
LOOKING GOOD
You dont have to look or
act homeless just because
you dont have a home. It
makes other climbers avoid
you, and the authorities
will look at you with more
scrutiny. I shower and shave
every couple of days. It
makes it easier to y under
the radar. As notorious dirtbag Chongo wrote in The
Quotable Chongo, If you
wash your hands frequently,
then you get more babes...
and you live longer (a fact)...
which means that you can
get even more babes.
5
KNOWING KARMA
IS REAL
Earlier this year, I pulled
600 feet of xed line off
El Capitan, and I replaced a
number of the xed lines to
Heart Ledges. The physical toiling worked me, but
Yosemite climbing ranger
Ben Doyle offered to belay
me on my project halfway
up El Cap as a result. Being
a crag steward fully paid off.
Replace webbing, switch
out bad biners, and clean up
trash. Good stuff happens to
good people.
CLIM BING.COM
| 27
GUIDE
11 routes
ECHO CRAG
PROFILE BOULDERS
ARTISTS BLUFF
CRAGS
5 routes
31 routes
Epicenter:
North Conway, NH
3 problems
HANGING GARDENS
2 routes
2 problems
CANNON CLIFF
BONDCLIFF
75 routes
1 route
116
MT. LIBERTY,
FRANCONIA
NOTCH
0. HENDERSONS
BUTTRESS
6 routes
10 routes
THE FLUME
1 route
CRAG MAP
FRANCONIA NOTCH
BOULDERING
6 routes
4 problems
MOUNT HOGSBACK
3 routes
LINCOLN
28 routes
KINSMAN NOTCH
BRYANT LEDGE
6 routes
2 routes
93
1 route
25
118
15 problems
WELCH MOUNTAIN
18 routes
WATERVILLE VALLEY
25C
199 routes
WARREN
7 routes
DOWNING MOUNTAIN
(EAGLE CLIFF)
12 routes
49
3
25A
175
WENTWORTH
YELLOWJACKET AREA
GEM HUNTER
59 routes
12 routes
CAMPTON
INFINITY WALL
THE BAKERY
3 routes
13 routes
RUMNEY
THE JOBSITE
3 routes
4 routes
888 routes
25
93
POWERED BY
28 | AUGUST 2 014
BACK STAIRS
1 route
AMPHITHEATER
AREA
6 routes
STAIRS
MOUNTAIN
13 routes
2 routes
29 routes
15 routes
THE UP STAIRS
CAVE
MOUNTAIN
ARETHUSA FALLS
1 route
3 routes
THE CAPTAIN
16
SACO CRAG
NORTHEASTERN
CRAGS
10 routes
2 routes
7 routes
GREENS CLIFF
HUMPHREYS
LEDGE
42 routes
302
32 routes
BARTLETTHAYSTACK
MEADOW
BROOK
SLABS
North Conway
ATTITASH
CRAG
CATHEDRAL
LEDGE
23 routes
7 routes
173 routes
RAINBOW
SLABS
46 routes
112
4 routes
CMC CRAG
3 routes
FRANKENSTEIN
ICE CLIMBS
PICK OF THE
LITTER
CLIFF
WHITES LEDGE
WHITEHORSE
LEDGE
5 routes
KANCAMAGUS
CRAGS
OWLS CLIFF
141 routes
TABLE
MOUNTAIN
SLAB
46 routes
GREELEY PONDS
83 routes
1 route
16
113
17 routes
CARTER
LEDGE
CONWAY
4 routes
MT.
HEDGEHOG
WHITEFACE
MOUNTAIN
1 route
ALBANY
SLABS
1 route
YELLOWJACKET
BOULDERFIELD
4 routes
BIG ROCK
CAVE
39 routes
113
1 route
153
113A
WHITE
LEDGE
21 routes
16
SANDWICH
NOTCH
THE SCENE
16 routes
This little town has more routes within a couple hours drive than it has residents in the city limits. Mountain
Project lists more than 3,500 routes in the vicinity, while the U.S. Census tallies 2,349 townies, and North
Conway lies smack in the middle of the highest concentration of climbing in the stateif not all of New
England. New Hampshires nickname is the Granite State, but its rock comes in many forms, from the rounded boulders of Pawtuckaway in the south to the clean, fractured granite of Cannon Cliff in the north. North
Conway has two of the best trad cliffs in the country: Cathedral Ledge and Whitehorse Ledge, minutes from
town. All of this packed inside a state that is small enough to t inside some national parks out West.
109
TRAD
TOPROPE
SPORT
BOULDERING
ICE/MIXED
CLIM BING.COM
| 29
GUIDE
CRAGS
LOCALS KNOW
Where climbers:
[stay]
Take NH 112 out of Conway (this
stretch is known as the Kancamagus Highway) to nd six state park
campgrounds (fee; mostly rst come,
rst served) and national forest land.
You can camp for free off any hiking
trail, or the Kanc as it winds through
White Mountain National Forest.
Prefer a roof? Head to the White
Mountains Hostel. It has 10 rooms,
28 bunks, and ve private rooms. ($27
$58, whitemountainshostel.com)
[eat/drink]
To satiate the three holy climbercravings (coffee, pizza, and beer),
you couldnt be in a better place. Hit
Frontside Grind (frontsidecoffee
.com) for your morning caffeine jolt
(or if you need a partnerits usually
packed with climbers). Shufe to
Flatbread Pizza Co. in the evening
(atbreadcompany.com) for an organic wood-red piewe like Mopsys
Kalua Pork Pie. Then sample the best
local craft beer at Moat Mountain
Smokehouse and Brewery (moatmountain.com). The Moat Iron Mike
Pale Ale is crisp with a citrusy Cascade
hop nish; more important, its canned
in tallboys. Grab a sixer for camp!
[gear up]
Founded in the 1970s and run by
longtime locals Rick and Ceila Wilcox,
International Mountain Equipment
is a required stop, even if you dont
need anything. We dispense climbing
info all day long, says employee and
guide Max Lurie. Weve even had
people call from the base of a route
asking for beta. And we gladly oblige!
Still, wed advise browsing their vast
library of guidebooks or even taking
a climbing lesson or joining a guided
trip if you need to be pointed in
the right direction (head upstairs to
inquire). Already dialed? The consignment shop in the basement is worth a
quick rummageits loaded with used
backcountry, climbing, mountaineering, and telemark gear. (ime-usa.com,
603-356-7013)
[spend a rest day]
Hammock-lounging in camp might
sound sweet, but youre a stones
throw from the Presidential Range and
thousands of dreamy swimming holes.
Hike Mount Washington via a 7.6-mile
loop (backpacker.com/whitemountains), and then check out First Bridge
or Davis Beach, both on the Saco River
just outside of town.
ROUTES
30 | AUGUST 2 014
Airation (5.11a)
Cathedral Ledge, 2 pitches
The rst pitch is only 37
feet, but given that I was
nger jamming about every
nine inches, I did more than
40 jams in that length. No
wonder it seems taller!
Waimea (5.10d)
Rumney, 1 pitch
Absolutely outstanding
route. If you link it with All
the Way-A, it makes for a
*Stats are for the immediate North Conway area. Get route beta, photos, and topos at
mountainproject.com/newhampshire.
Apocalypse Later
(5.11c/d)
Rumney, 1 pitch
One of my favorite routes
at Rumney. On chilly days
the face is drenched in
sunshine. The route is the
best of both worlds, long
moves up steep rock at the
bottom, then you pull onto
the face, and suddenly youre
scrambling for technique.
POWERED BY
ANDREW BURR
GUIDE
INSTANT EXPERT
Style your way through layback sections with these expert techniques
BY JULIE ELLISON
LAYBACKS COMBINE difcult aspects of several climbing styles into a challenging mlange of
movement. Technically, laybacks are a type of crack climbing, but they also include the smeary
feet of a slab route, the pump factor of an overhanging sport climb, the oppositional pull and
push forces of a techy face section, and the nicky gear placements of an R-rated trad line. This
tricky hybrid is most useful on akes and in corners where straight-in jamming isnt an option,
but newbie crack climbers have also been known to employ it on cracks before theyve mastered
the elusive foot- and hand-jamming skills. Weve gathered experience-driven tips and tricks to
create a foolproof recipe for success on pumpy layback pitches.
THE CHALLENGES
Pump Factor
Youre relying on your forearms
and biceps. Even if you can
straighten your arms to utilize
your skeleton, you still need some
nger strength to grip the rock
like a sidepull. Keep your arms and
hands as relaxed as possible, taking
care not to over-grip the rock.
Training on long, pumpy sport
32 | AUGUST 2 014
HANDS
Find ngerlocks or hand jams in the layback
position. These allow you to actively pull outward on the crack and to passively use your
skeleton to hang on your arms.
FEET
Dont get your feet too close to your hands;
this creates maximum horizontal force and
wastes energy. On the other hand, if your feet
are too low, the opposing forces wont create
enough friction. Find the sweet spot based on
the angle and your height. Find footholds to
push up (or rest) on and put more weight on
your legs.
TRANSITIONS
Getting into and out of a layback is hard, so
try to nd a bomber lock or jam in the crack.
This lets you transition from pulling down to
out, and vice versa. It also helps to start the
transition moves with high feet.
STEEPS
If the crack begins to steepen or angle sideways, the position of your hands will change.
Instead of a sidepull, switch to underclings
with both palms facing upward. At this point,
its important to nd small footholds so you
can put more weight on your feet.
GEAR
A recent rescue involved a laybacking climber
who was blindly placing gear. He slipped, his
pro blew, and he hit the ground. Find a rest
stance before placing gear, and always look to
make sure its solid. Otherwise, estimate the
size of the crack with your hands and from
scoping it out previously. Pull in on both arms,
lock off with the arm that has the best grip,
place gear, and check to make sure its bomber.
THE BASICS
HIGHER-LEVEL
LAYBACKS
with Cheyne Lempe
SERIOUSLY
LIGHT!
NEW METOLIUS
ULTRALIGHT
CHALK BAGS
CLIMBER!
www.metoliusclimbing.com
Bill Morse suits up for a larger than life burn on California 5.12, a steep and thuggy 12c at Red Rock Canyon, Nevada Photo: Ben Moon
TRAINING
Advanced
Conditioning
BY ROB SHAUL
Train like a professional athlete for long climbs with heavy packs
STEEP APPROACHES, weighty loads, and full days make climbing in the alpine a serious
affair. Likewise, climbers with big alpine goals should take their training seriously. In August,
Climbing editors Shannon Davis and Julie Ellison are headed to the Cirque of the Towers in the
Wind River Range of Wyoming to attempt a two-day Cirque Traverse. Covering 19 miles, 10,000
feet of vertical gain and loss, and dozens of pitches of technical climbing and rappelling, the
Cirque Traverse is a link-up of nine technical peaks. We worked with Rob Shaul, a strength and conditioning
coach who has trained pro skiers and climbers, and The North Faces Mountain Athletics program, to design an
appropriate and ass-kicking training plan for big days in the alpine.
START HERE
LACTATE THRESHOLD
FIELD TEST
1. Warm up according to calendar at right,
then do 1,000 step-ups as detailed below.
2. Complete 200 step-ups as fast as you can
with your HRM tracking your average heart
rate and total time.
3. After completing 200, set a new interval
to track a new average heart rate.
4. Complete 800 step-ups as fast as you can.
5. Record your average heart rate for the
nal 800 step-ups. That is your lactate
threshold (LT) on which all of the training in
this plan will be based.
6. Use the following percentages of your LT
to nd your target heart rate for each zone
listed on the calendar: Zone 1 is <84%; Zone
2 is 85-89%; Zone 3 is 90-94%; Zone 4 is 9599%; Zone 5 is 100-106%.
34 |
AUGUST 2014
GUIDELINES
rest days.
On days that are highlight-
SKIP STERLING
GUIDE
TUESDAY
WEDNESDAY
ENDURANCE, STRENGTH
CLIMBING STAMINA
THURSDAY
LEG STRENGTH, CORE
FRIDAY
SATURDAY
TEMPO, ENDURANCE
LONG MINI-EVENT
1. 6.5-mile run
2. 3 sets: 775 step-ups,
4 V1/V2 boulder problems (no pack)
3. 6.5-mile run
1. 7-mile run
2. 3 sets: 800 step-ups,
5 V1/V2 boulder problems (no pack)
3. 7-mile run
1. 8-mile run
2. 3 sets: 825 step-ups,
5 V1/V2 boulder problems (no pack)
3. 8-mile run
1. 9-mile run
2. 3 sets: 850 step-ups,
6 V1/V2 boulder problems (no pack)
3. 9-mile run
Rest Day
1. 10-mile run
2. 3 sets: 900 step-ups,
6 V1/V2 boulder problems (no pack)
3. 10-mile run
Rest Day
Rest Day
Week 1
WU (warm-up): 3 sets of 25 step-ups, 5 pushups, 10 sit-ups
1. Complete the Lactate Threshold Field Test
(see sidebar at left).
1. 4 sets: 4 problems,
rest 1 min.
2. Rest 5 min.
3. 4 sets: 4 problems,
rest 1 min.
4. Rest 5 min.
Repeat (16 sets total)
Same as Week 1
Same as Week 1
Week 2
Week 3
WU: same as Week 2
1. 5 sets: 3 min. step-ups @ Zone 5, 1 min. hip
exor/pigeon stretch
2. 2 sets (no pack): full leg blaster, 8 pushups
3. 4 sets (no pack): mini leg blaster, 8 pushups
4. 5 sets: 3 min. run @ Zone 5, 2 min. run @
Zone 1
Same as Week 1
Week44
Week
WU: 2 sets of Week 2
1. 5 sets: 4 min. step-ups @ Zone 4, 2 min.
pigeon stretch and lat/pec stretch
2. 2 sets (no pack): full leg blaster, 8 pushups
3. 4 sets (no pack): mini leg blaster, 8 pushups
4. 5 sets: 4 min. run @ Zone 4, 2 min. run @
Zone 1
Same as Week 1
Week 5
WU: 4 sets of Week 2
1. 5 sets: 5 min. step-ups @ Zone 4, 2 min.
pigeon stretch and lat/pec stretch
2. 3 sets (no pack): full leg blaster, 10 pushups
3. 2 sets (no pack): mini leg blaster, 10 pushups
4. 5 sets: 5 min. run @ Zone 4, 2 min. run @
Zone 1
Same as Week 1
Week 6
WU: same as Week 5
1. 5 sets: 5 min. step-ups @ Zone 5, 2 min.
pigeon stretch and lat/pec stretch
2. 4 sets (no pack): full leg blaster, 12 pushups
3. 5 sets: 5 min. run @ Zone 5, 2 min. run @
Zone 1
Same as Week 1
Week 7
WU: same as Week 5
1. 5 sets: 5 min. step-ups @ Zone 4, 2 min.
pigeon stretch and lat/pec stretch
2. 3 sets (no pack): full leg blaster, 10 pushups
3. 2 sets (no pack): mini leg blaster, 10 pushups
4. 5 sets: 5 min. run @ Zone 4, 2 min. run @
Zone 1
Rest Day
CLIM BING.CO M
| 35
GUIDE
NUTRITION
Power Pie
BY JULIE ELLISON
36 | AUGUST 2014
Directions
Mix all the lling ingredients together in a bowl.
Grease a mufn pan thoroughly.
Press dough into the bottom and sides of the pan, so it lls
each mufn cup halfway.
Put about two tablespoons of lling into each pie.
Use the remaining dough to make small, at discs. Place
those over each pie, then press the sides of the top down, sealing the crust together.
Bake according to the directions of your specic pie crust (10
to 20 minutes), subtracting a few minutes since each pouch will
be small.
Remove from the oven when the crust is a golden brown.
Let the pies cool completely after baking so the lling rms up.
Nutrition Facts
per serving (1 pie)
Energy 165 cal
Fat 3g
Sodium 24mg
Carbs 32g
Gluten-Free
Budget Option
Fiber 2g
Protein 15g
Water 40%
FILL UP!
Healthiest
WHOLLY WHOLESOME
ORGANIC WHOLE WHEAT
Diehard bakers will probably scoff at the idea
of a whole-wheat pie crustuntil they take
a bite of this. Even with the denser whole
wheat, this crust has just the right aky to
moist consistencyand more ber than a
traditional pie crust makes it feel extra lling.
Ingredients
The old ladies of the pie contests are a secretive, competitive lot. They employ their husbands to get them
fruit and the best butter, help them taste, and wash
dishes. Couple this with a few decades of practice, and
they are formidable opponents.
ANDREW BURR
What does a hiking boot company like LOWA know about climbing shoes? We dont have
any rock stars, we dont have any rst ascents, we havent given away tons of product,
but heres what we do have: 90 years of boot-making experience that, among other
things, has taken climbers to the summit of every 8000 meter peak in the world.
Our new X-BOULDER carries our legacy forward.
HANDCRAFTED IN EUROPE
To see LOWAs new line of rock shoes, visit www.lowaboots.com
2014 LOWA Boots, LLC. VIBRAM, the Octagon Logo, and the Yellow Octagon Logo and the color Canary Yellow are registered trademarks of Vibram S.p.A.
NEW X-Boulder
PRIMER
GEAR
Harnesses
Weve come a long way,
babyfrom the (literally)
gut-wrenching swami
belts and painful chest
harnesses of old to
sleek, comfortable models weighing less than a
pound. To see how good
we have it todaywith
upgraded features and
materials like comfortable padding, breathable mesh liners, and
laser-cut webbingpeep
these antique (but state
of the art in their time)
rigs on display at Neptune Mountaineering in
Boulder, Colorado. Then
get psyched to turn the
page and nd your next
upgrade.
1.
Eastern European copy of an
Edelrid chest harness:
homemade, can take apart to
use rope and cord.
1967-68
2.
Whillans Sit Harness: made by
Troll of England, designed for the
rst ascent of Annapurna South.
1970
3.
Bill Forrest Waistbelt: sold
separately from leg loops (#4)
for precise sizing.
1968
4.
Bill Forrest Leg Loops: these
and the waistbelt were always
used together.
1968
BEN FULLERTON
5.
Clan Robertson Harness:
made by Brian Robertson
in Boulder.
early 1970s
6.
Troll ABS Harness: has a wide
range of adjustment buckles that
cant be fully undone for safety.
late 1980s
| 39
GEAR
BIG REVIEW
Harness
Edelrid Solaris
$125; scarpa.com/edelrid
$100; blackdiamondequipment.com
Performance
You wont nd a more comfortable harness, said one tester after her rst multi-pitch
route in Boulder Canyon, Colorado, wearing
the womens-specic Solaris. The super-wide
waistbelt and leg loops have the largest contact
zones of any tested. This not only disperses pressure, but it helps the individual straps keep their
shape and stay in place. Leg loops dont ride up
uncomfortably into your nether regions, and the
waistbelt wont fold over onto itself and cut into
you. Two separate straps at the waist help you
ne-tune t: Loosen the bottom strap for wider
hips; tighten the top for a narrower waist. This
customizable contour is uniqueand brilliant
for womens harnesses. Plus, the separate straps
connect in a loop; one quick pull and the harness
is snug in a micro-second. Testers loved the front
gear loops that pushed gear aggressively forward,
and the 3D-Vent technology that combined ve
straps with mesh, keeping testers cool even in
75 and full sun at Wild Iris, Wyoming. Nitpick: It
was bulky to pack. (Mens version is the Orion.)
In the weight-obsessed discipline of sport climbing, this no-frills harness gets the job done at a
light 10.5 ounces (mens medium). Designers cut
weight by including buckle-free leg loops and a
sleek design, keeping material to a minimum. The
leg loops and waistbelt are narrow in the front
and wider in the back, offering a larger contact
zone where you need it. Testers appreciated the
simplicity of the rig, too. Slip it on, pull the waist
strap, and youre good to go. This harness forgoes
traditional webbing for the internal structure and
instead uses Vectran bers. This adds stability to
the shape of the waistbelt and leg loops; it was
comfortable even when one tester hung for 15
minutes to analyze moves. Packability was topnotch, with the Ozone scrunching down to slightly
smaller than a 32-ounce Nalgene bottle. Testers
were able to use it for trad climbing, but preferred
to rack on a gear sling instead of the gear loops.
More than a few pounds on the harness caused
discomfort and made it feel like the waistbelt was
sliding down. (Womens version is the Aura.)
Conclusion
Bottom Line
MUST-STOP GEAR SHOPS
These ve outdoor
stores are knowledgeable about gear, generous with beta, and
welcoming to their local
climbing communities.
40 | AUGUST 2 014
Svelte Sport
Neptune Mountaineering
Boulder, Colorado
Our hometown gear haven
has an unmatched climbing
museum with everything
from old equipment used
during well-known ascents
to short-lived missteps in
the evolution of gear. Plus,
In October 2006, legendary climber Todd Skinner and partner, Jim Hewett, were rappelling down Leaning Tower
in Yosemite. Hewett was above Skinner when he heard a snap, looked down, and saw his friend falling. Skinner fell several hundred feet and was killed on impact,
his locked carabiner and belay device still hanging from the rope. It was clear that his belay loop had failed. What wasnt clear, was why. A few days prior, Hewett
had noticed that Skinners belay and leg loops were frayed; Skinner said he had a new harness on the way. Investigation of the belay loop remnants by the
National Park Service eliminated chemical contamination and animal tampering as the cause of failure. However, a sling was found girth-hitched to the belay
loop. Hewett said it had been in place for a while. This would have prevented the belay loop from rotating, and created a concentrated wear point. Plus, a broken
keeper strap on the leg loops would have led to them sawing against the belay loop in the exact same spot over time. Moral of the story: Dont leave any soft goods
girth-hitched to the belay loop or tie-in points of your harness. Whenever you take off your harness, remove all the soft goods as well. Do regular inspections of
your equipment, looking for any signs of wear. If any part of your gear is questionable, replace it. Caroline Meleedy
Edelrid Jay
Beal Rebel
$65; wildcountry.com
$55; scarpa.com/edelrid
$60; libertymountainclimbing.com
Budget All-Arounder
of the daily routine here, with
past presenters including Lynn
Hill, Chris Sharma, and Jim
Bridwell.
Rock/Creek
Chattanooga, Tennessee
Named 2009 Retailer of the
Year by our sister magazine
Sleek Versatility
Backpacker, Rock/Creek not
only prides itself on providing quality gear for a variety
of outdoor sports, but they
also sponsor the popular
Triple Crown Bouldering
Series and work with groups
like the Southeastern
Climbers Coalition.
Got a favorite
gear shop?
Nominate yours
at letters@
climbing.com.
CLIM BING.CO M
| 41
GEAR
TESTED
THE KIT
Field Notes
EVEN
BETTER
SQUID
ARMAID
We gave this self-massaging
tool to three multi-discipline
climbers who were each in
various stages of elbow and
joint health: one injuryfree boulderer who trains
hard three to four times a
week, one climber who has
experienced forearm tendon
strain for a few months, and
another who has had elbow
tendonitis off and on for 10
years. All three testers were
blown away by the relief
they found from using the
OUTDOOR RESEARCH
HELIUM HYBRID
Just in case is the mantra for
high-elevation pursuits. The
Helium Hybrid wind jacket is
perfectly suited for just-incase scenarios. The nylon body
SNOWBERRY ACTIVE
OUTDOOR SPF 30
Sunburn can end a day just as
well as a surprise storm. This
all-natural sunscreen from
New Zealands Snowberry has
no harmful chemicals, and it
uses zinc oxide and plant extracts to block UVA and UVB
rays. What really made it stand
out was how it felt: It goes
on soft, absorbs quickly, and
doesnt leave that greased-up
feeling that makes crimping granite a challenge, one
tester said. The oils and shea
butter help treat dry skin. $41;
snowberrybeauty.com
SMITH FRONTMAN
CHROMAPOP
Elevation
Essentials
BEN FULLERTON
BY JULIE ELLISON
HILLSOUND TRAIL
CRAMPON ULTRA
Just because the high country
is dry enough to climb doesnt
mean trails and approaches
are free of packed snow and
ice. For low-angle jaunts,
you wont need technical
mountaineering crampons, but
approach shoes will leave you
slipping and sliding. Enter the
Hillsound Trail Crampon Ultra.
Its halfway between a technical pon and those mini-spikes
soccer moms use to walk the
dog in winter. The 18 stainless
steel points gave testers just
the right amount of purchase
ADVENTURE MEDICAL
KITS ULTRALIGHT &
WATERTIGHT .3
Think like a Boy Scout and
always be prepared with
this nifty rst aid kit. It
includes anti-septic wipes,
ointment, and bandages for
cuts and scrapes; medication
for pain and inammation;
and blister treatment. Its
small (5.3 x 5), packable,
lightweight (2.3 oz.), and waterproof to keep everything
useable after a downpour.
Although this doesnt replace actual rst aid training
or knowledge, its perfect to
throw in a pack or a crashpad without taking up much
space or adding weight. Its
a good foundation to build
a larger kit from, if you need
it. And the price is real nice.
$9; adventuremedicalkits.com
PETZL TIKKA XP
Long approaches, inclement
weather, and quickly changing
conditions can keep you out
longer than expected, so you
should always bring a light.
With an airy weight and a
compact, rugged construction,
the newly updated Tikka line
remains a climber and alpinist
favorite. We liked the XP model because of its three beam
options: wide and dispersed,
long and focused, or a combination of both. The highest
setting is a bright 160 lumens,
and it features Constant Lighting technology, which keeps
it burning at the same rate for
the batterys duration. Most
headlamps have unregulated
life, meaning the light dims as
the battery drains. When the
batteries are low in the Tikka
XP, it automatically goes into
reserve mode, giving you just
enough light to nish the task
at hand. The strap is ergonomically shaped so its comfortable, and its removable and
washable. $55; petzl.com
CLIM BING.CO M
| 43
www.primuscamping.com
OMNI
LITE
FOR THE SOLO TREKKER
Lightweight.
Convenient.
Powerful.
Multi-fuel.
www.primuscamping.com
BEGIN HERE
CLINICS
g. 1
RAPPELLING
In high winds.
BELAYING
BEN FULLERTON
With a ledge.
Without a ledge.
No ledge (a hanging belay) means
youll have to coil the rope over
CLIM BING.CO M
| 45
CLINICS
IN SESSION
Preventing it
PULL-TEST
SHORTER
RAPPELS
ADJUST
PROPER
BEFOREHAND KNOTS
If you must use double-rope rappels,
make some adjustments before the
rst person leaves the anchor. After
you set up the rappel, pull the knot
so its positioned lower than the belay
ledge, which is a common place for
the knot to get stuck. Keep in mind
this will make one side of the rope
shorter, but knots in the ends of the
ropes should be there as a backup.
Pay close attention to where the rope
is running, and keep it clear of any
cracks that could swallow it up; this
might mean adjusting the anchor to
redirect the rope. On snow and ice
routes, you can also ll cracks with
snow to block the ropes entry. The
best skill is to be aware.
46 | AUGUST 2 014
ANDY KIRKPATRICK
Andy Kirkpatrick (andy-kirkpatrick.com) is a British
climbing author with a reputation for stubbornness in the
face of reality, high-risk objectives, a keen sense of humor,
and bad teeth.
SKIP STERLING
TIPS
Dealing with it
Start here Youre safely down at the next anchor and ready to pull the rope from the previous rap anchor. You engage the rope
slowly and smoothly, getting a feel for what its doing. Dont give up the end until youre sure the rope is moving well. If at any time
you begin to feel the effort to move it increase, then slow down. If you feel a tug, meaning the knot is caught on something, STOP.
Yes.
No.
Yes. Rad.
Yes. Awesome.
No.
No.
Yes.
Sweet.
No.
Now you need to use some force. When descending, you should have checked out the path to spot
any potential problems, such as a tree limb or a
rock spike, so that you have an idea of what could
have happened. Once you begin to pull hard,
you increase the chances of pulling down rocks,
so reduce the risk by staying away from the fall
line. To increase the force, you can simply use a
belay device to yard in the slack, or place jumars
or prusiks on the rope and use the weight of more
than one climber. One technique is to use a Grigri
to pull in the rope until its under maximum tension, then let all the rope explode from the device,
causing the rope to spring up and whip the rope
out of its obstruction.
Ascend the single rope. Youve already tested its holding power, so it should take
a climbers weight. The unlucky climber should tie into the end youve been pulling and be put on belay. Hopefully, he can free or aid climb, placing pro along the
way, until he reaches the obstruction. If he cant, he should prusik up the rope,
with minimal bouncing, placing pro if possible. If the snag is high on the rappel
or at the anchor, he may run out of free rope for a belay, but he should soon reach
the other strand of rappel rope and can use that as a backup. Once he gets to the
stuck portion, he should build an anchor, x the problem, get lowered back down
or rappel, and clean the gear he placed.
CLIM BING.COM
| 47
CLINICS
GUIDES TIP
Prep
Climbing all day is hard enough,
so dont complicate things with
intricate meals, and the only thing
48 | AUGUST 2 014
Cooking
Sometimes conditions are so bad out
that you have to cook in your vestibule or tent, but way too many climbers have done this and sealed up the
3
2
1
5
Just-Add-Water Meals
1. MSR Dromedary; 6.9 oz. (4L
version)
Great for hauling and storing water
when melting snow.
2. 32 oz. Nalgene Jar; 6.7 oz.
BEN FULLERTON
Stoves
Cook-in-Pot Meals
1. MSR Dromedary; 6.9 oz. (4L
version)
Melt snow the night before and
store here for the next morning.
6
2
4
8
BEN FULLERTON
Clean-Up
If you kept your cooking simple,
the only things youll need to clean
are your spork, a bowl, and maybe
a cup. Dont use soap; clean the pan
with your spatula, and then use hot
water from post-dinner drinks to get
tough spots. For burned-on gunk, try
steel wool and some gritty soil. Toss
dishwater away from camp (really
far away if there are bears!), and
dispose of chunky stuf in a six-inchdeep cathole. When considering your
own cook kit, think about the range
of uses for each piece. Sure, a shallow plate might be nice for tortillas
and beans, but what about a bowl
of noodles? You can also streamline
clean-up by minimizing items: Use
something that can function as
both a bowl and mug to save space,
KEL ROSSITER
Kel Rossiter is the owner and an
AMGA-certied alpine and rock
guide for Adventure Spirit Guides
(adventurespiritguides.com). Hes
cooked an estimated 2,400 meals
above treeline.
CLIM BING.COM
| 49
FIND A GUIDE
BECOME ONE
AMGA.COM
CLIMBER WISDOM
VOICES
BRETT AFFRUNTI
AND OTHER
TOPICS...
How can I score some free shoes? Steal them, of course. // Whats the term for sending a route with pre-placed pro? Well, its certainly not
sending. // Can you recommend a good method for marking my gear? Locks of human hair (doesnt matter whose) tied in elaborate knots.
CLIM BING.CO M
| 51
Stanley
Style
BY CEDAR WRIGHT
52 | AUGUST 2014
I was a full-on gumby and had only been climbing three months
when I met Stanley for the rst time, at a fungus-lled, full-moon,
bonre beach party on Moonstone Beach near Humboldt, California.
A friend introduced us as both climbers, and later that evening I was
pseudo-belaying Sean as he toproped up a swirling, melting face.
This was the beginning of perhaps one of the sketchiest climbing
mentorships of all time. With few motivated climbers to turn to, Sean
really had no choice but to take me under his wing. The tutelage that
followed wont be found in Freedom of the Hills, and it would probably
give the AMGA cold sweats.
My rst lesson from Stanley occurred on our rst full day out. He
guided me up my rst lead climb, a free solo of an 80-foot 5.9 on
Moonstone Beach. Youve got this dude; just relax, he coached me, as
I fought a wicked pump and deadpointed for jugs more than 40 feet of
the ground. That day, I learned to breathe and relax in the face of danger, a highly underrated skill. By the time I started leading with a rope,
it actually seemed pretty mellow.
Stanley introduced me to each aspect of climbing in about the most
unorthodox way possible. It was often too rainy in Humboldt to climb,
unless you were willing to climb in the rain, so that we didALL THE
TIME. I learned that just because conditions arent perfect, it doesnt
mean something is unclimbable. Ive put this lesson to good use in places like Bafn and the Karakoram.
Sean instructed me that it was prouder (and more efcient) to skip as
many bolts as possible while sport climbing, and even better to solo the
route. As I learned to trad climb, he taught me that it was more honorable to place only stoppers. He methodically threw me onto dangerous
and difcult climbs. Slowly but surely, I took on Stanley style, a risky
approach to climbing dened by heart-racing thrills and near misses.
A year into my dementorship, we bolted a ground-up rst ascent on
a local limestone crag, using only one very small hook and a hand drill,
because rap-bolting is for pussies. We both took 60-foot whippers in
the process. I slowly learned to trust my abilities, to recognize the diference between just being scared and being in true danger, and to be quite
comfortable on runouts and sketchy gear.
This was not your inherently safe, homogenized, belay card gymclimbing education. Sean introduced me to an adrenaline-lled gladiator sport where every day could be your last. Soon I was soloing 5.10 on
a daily basis because thats what Stanley did!
Really, the lessons were as numerous as they were dubious. I learned
that you could save good money on climbing shoes if you only used
them when you absolutely couldnt do the route in your bare feet. The
same went for chalk. I learned that toproping was much more exciting
if the rope was pulled up in 15-foot increments. I learned that if the
climber is about to deck, the belayer must run at full speed to keep that
from happening.
Somewhat miraculously, I survived Stanleys tutelage. All the sandbagging, soloing, and runouts had shaped me into a fast, bold climber.
Later, I would put that patented Leary boldness to good use, setting
my own speed records on El Cap and pioneering scary rst ascents on
the Sentinel. I almost certainly wouldnt have a professional climbing
career today if it hadnt been for this warped dementorship.
CHRIS MCNAMARA
VOICES
way to Moab, the car rolled, and she died in his arms.
I raced to see Sean in Moab. Understandably, he was a complete mess
and no fun to be around. Totally dark. I cooked him food, got him out
climbing, and tried to keep him occupied. At times, I thought he might
kill himself. Hed lower of a pitch and start sobbing. At one point he
had an outburst. Whats the fucking point?! he screamed, as he threw
his phone and wallet into the desert, then took of in his car. I fretted
for hours, confronting the reality that I might not see him alive again.
Slowly, Stanley clawed back to life, and soon took an obsessive interest in BASE jumping. He channeled his loss and grief into learning a
new and dangerous sport. It wasnt long before he had jumped El Cap and Half Dome.
Sean was still an emotional mess. I didnt
really like the idea of BASE jumping, but I
couldnt deny that it seemed to be therapeutic for him.
Every time I jump, I have to pull the cord and save my life, he conded in me.
Sean had promised Roberta that, if she died before him, he would
scatter her ashes in Patagonia, where she loved to climb. Sean carried
those ashes and the pain of her death with him for two years, unwilling
and unable to let go.
Finally, he made it to Patagonia with Renan Ozturk and myself. Despite crap weather and endless winds, we managed to put up a rst ascent, and Stanley became the rst person to wingsuit of El Mocho. He
packed Robertas ashes in the chute. When it opened, Roberta returned
to the mountains she loved.
In Patagonia, Sean nally let go of his pain. He began to laugh and
then even love again. I was so happy to see him marry a sexy and whipsmart medical student named Mieka. Stanley married a doctor, and I
married a lawyer.
Dirtbags like us need sugar mamas, I joked with him.
Right before he died, Sean was enjoying a personal renaissance. He
was starting to get some of the recognition and support he deserved,
including trips to Bafn and Antarctica with Leo Houlding, and some
well-earned sponsorships. He was pioneering numerous legal BASE
exits in North America and working on a cutting-edge free climb on
Mount Watkins with Jimmy Hayden. He was also going to be a father.
Ive lost some of my best friends to climbing, and if Im honest, Im
still confused and conicted by that. We were supposed to be old farts
talking shit and trading war stories some day. Seans death made me
furious. Fuck BASE jumping, I thought.
But as reality set in, I had to accept the fact that if Stanley had played
it safe, he wouldnt have been the guy I loved and respected. Stanley
lives on in the countless climbing and life lessons I learned from him,
and I continue on the trajectory that Stanley created for me.
Before he died, Sean helped Steph Davis with her healing process
after she lost her husband, Mario, to BASE jumping. Right now your
grief is this giant gaping hole with sharp edges, but as you move forward in life, the edges soften and other beautiful things start to grow
around it, owers and trees of experiences. The hole never goes away,
but it becomes gentler and sort of a garden in your soul, a place you can
visit when you want to be near your love.
I miss you and love you, Stanley. Heres to raising hell in the garden. //
CLIM BING.CO M
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VOICES
SEMI-RAD
The
Joy Of
Sloproping
BY BRENDAN LEONARD
I was lucky enough to see the premiere of Chris Alstrins 2008 lm Luxury Liner: The First Ascent of Supercrack at Neptune Mountaineering, where three of the four members of the rst ascent party were present: Ed
Webster, Stewart Green, and Bryan Becker. Only missing was the late Earl Wiggins, who led (on all passive
gear, mind you) the visionary climb that opened Indian Creek as a world-class destination.
54 |
AUGUST 20 14
After the lm, when Webster, Green, Becker, and lmmaker Alstrin
took questions, Becker mentioned that he hardly ever led anything at
Indian Creek anymore. I remember him saying something like, I just
walk around asking, Can I get a toprope? to much laughter from the
audience.
Bryan Becker is no slouchalthough he didnt lead the rst ascent
of Supercrack (5.10), he put up tons of ballsy routes in his career: the
FA of The Hallucinogen Wall (5.10 A3+ R) in the Black Canyon of the
Gunnison, the FA of the Denali Diamond (M7) on North Americas
highest peak, and the rst solo of The Dragon (VI 5.9 A4) in the Black
Canyon, to name a few. Basically hes done more hard, scary climbing
than most of us will ever have nightmares of. But nowadays, he likes
a good toprope at the Creek and was more than happy to announce it
to a room full of climbers. Which I thought was great, because I have
a bit of a complex about toproping.
tarifa
FALL 2014
RICH CROWDER
the
IGH
L IFE
Americas best bouldering is above 9,000 feet, and
conditions are perfectnow! Heres what you need to
know to hit the countrys nest alpine areas.
By Alex Biale
A climber enjoys the beauty and serenity
that alpine bouldering offers on a V3 at
Area D of Mt. Evans, Colorado.
Top: Many of the approaches and surrounding talus elds hold year-round snow, making the alreadygrueling hike to Upper Chaos Canyon in Rocky Mountain National Park a good bit longer and more
difcult. Bottom: Alton Richardson works out the beta on the crimps of Clear Blue Skies (V12), Mt.
Evans, Colorado.
BOULDERERS
ARE MIGRATORY.
ROCKY MOUNTAIN
NATIONAL PARK, CO
Experience the most popular alpine bouldering area in the country
THE SCENE Quality gneiss colored with splotches of green, yellow, black, and gray, a
parking lot (10 miles from the park entrance on CO 36). Take the Emerald Lake Trail
(a paved path for most of the way), passing views of Glacier Gorge and Longs Peak.
The 1.5-mile hike gains 605 feet, and the bouldering area sits at 10,080 feet. Targeting Chaos Canyon? Park at the same lot and take the Emerald Lake Trail until you
reach a junction with the Lake Haiyaha Trail. Turn lef and hike uphill through several
switchbacks and river crossings. Eventually the trail will spit you out at the mouth of
Chaos Canyon. Trend right for Lower Chaos; trend lef for Upper.
NOTABLE PROBLEMS
AT EMERALD LAKE
THE KIND, V5
Rumored to be the best V5 in Colorado, this classic moves out a gentle overhang on
absolutely perfect rock. The wall itself might even seem like its changing colors as the sun
moves across the open sky. An absolute must-do for all capable.
THE STRIPES, V7
FIREBALL, V10
WHISPERS OF WISDOM, V10
This beauty takes home the most coveted V10 in Colorado award. Everything about this problem is ideal. Its tall, steep, proud, aesthetic, hard as balls, and just plain fun. Not to mention you
get the most spectacular view in all of RMNP from on top of this boulder. Whispers of Wisdom
is the only line on the face and has a 25-foot slab for the nish to guard it from the faint of heart.
IN CHAOS
CANYON
MIDDLE
WARM-UP, V1
POTATO CHIP
LAYBACK, V3
POTATO CHIP, V6
Good holds and nice
movement.
TOMMYS ARTE, V7
A four-star problem said
to be sof for the grade.
GANG BANG, V8
Its only a few moves, but
it aint no gimme.
DEEP PUDDLE
DYNAMICS, V9
RICH CROWDER
CLIM BING.COM
| 61
WYOMING
NOTABLE
PROBLEMS
ALCA, V5
CRYSTALIS, V6
GREEN MACHINE, V6
THE SOLITUDE, V9
Sometimes V9 can feel way harder
than V10.
AUGUST 2014
BURST ROCK, CA
NOTABLE
PROBLEMS
THE RIBBON, V4
CONVERSATIONS WITH
MARMOT, V7
WE DONT NEED TO
WHISPER, V7
The most obvious line in the
whole canyon. You can see
the lightning bolt feature
that denes this highball
boulder from the top of the
canyon before you make the
descent. Brute force wont
get you to the top of this
gem; you have to whisper.
SWEET SIXTEEN, V8
An amazing highball that
ascends little edges up a
perfect overhang. Bring the
spotters and the pads!
LEXICAL AMBIGUITY,
V10
Climb a perfect overhanging
face on crimps and edges.
SKYPE, V10
Max Zolotukhin put this
problem up in 2011 afer it
thwarted many attempts.
(1 of 2)
CLIM BING.CO M
| 63
64 | AUGUST 2 014
BY ANGIE PAYNE
CLIM BING.CO M
| 65
LEAVENWORTH, WA
Fatten your tick list in the climbing capital of the Northwest
along forest roads and hidden in the surrounding trees, but the majority of the
bouldering is located along Highway 2 and can be broken down into two general
areas: Icicle Creek and Tumwater Canyon. Follow Icicle Creek Road south out of
town to get introduced to the area (and nd camping).
Tyler Weiss going big
on The Prism (V9).
NOTABLE
PROBLEMS
BEACH ARTE, V2
THE SWORD, V3 R
A true gem of the area. Most
climbing areas are dened
by their harder boulders, but
this one stone puts all the
other blocks to shame.
THE SHIELD, V7
PIMPSQUEAK, V9
PRISM, V9
COTTON PONY, V10
Gymnastic movement, comfortable holds, and a stout
reputation make this one
a coveted ascent for those
climbing at the grade.
66 | AUGUST 2 014
DARTH MAUL, V4
MT. EVANS, CO
rado, of every grade. The bouldering here varies wildly in climbing style, which creates a unique experience every time you visit. You can nd nearly everything here.
Technical granite slabs? Yup. Dynos on steep overhangs? Absolutely. Slopey compression thuggery? Uh-huh. You can nd anything from V0 to V15 at Mt. Evans.
THE APPROACH From I-70, take CO 103 south from Idaho Springs for about 14
miles to Echo Lake Park. Echo Lake is the trailhead for Chicago Lakes Trail No. 52,
which leads to Areas A through D. Area A is about three miles from the trailhead.
Area D adds another two or three miles (depending on how lost you get).
NOTABLE PROBLEMS
TIMELINE, V1
Timeline is a 25-foot-tall granite
slab that sits right in the main area
of Area A. Unless you want to be
carried out by friends, I suggest
you practice your mantel technique
beforehand. It really doesnt get
much better than this.
LAST OF THE
OHITIANS, V1
THE LADDER, V2
PEASANTS INTO
LEADERS, V7
SEURAT, V8
BIERSTADT, V9
THE DALI, V9
The Dali Boulders namesake is
short and fun with a big move.
SILVERBACK, V10
CLEAR BLUE
SKIES, V12
PUDDLE JUMPER, V2
Hello, balance!
68 | AUGUST 2 014
NO MORE GREENER
GRASSES, V12
Connor Grifth keeps it together on
The Nothing (V8) at Area D, Mt. Evans.
Several strong locals have nominated
this highball as one of the best boulders in Colorado.
(2 of 2)
P R O M OT I O N
TH E B E TA
GARDEN OF LIFE
METOLIUS
ADIDAS
BEN FULLERTON
BEN FULLERTON
arabia
Nobody goes rock climbing in the Middle East except sponsored athletes,
right? Nancy Prichard-Bouchard did, and she discovered world-class
routes, a community of strong Arab and Bedouin climbers, and the nest
cup of tea shes ever hadall in the regions emerging climbing capital.
72 | AUGUST 2 014
I rst heard
and a bustling city of about three million. You can catch a red-eye, settle
in for 14 hours, arrive in time to have dinner, and be climbing the next
day. Or spend a day exploring the ancient cities of Jerash, Petra (with the
famous narrow canyon entrance that Indiana Jones rode through in The
Last Crusade), and Madaba. There were barricades around our hotel,
the rst class Grand Hyatt Amman, and a scanner and X-ray security at
the entrance. The Grand Hyatt was one of the places bombed in 2005,
and now big hotels in the high-trafc tourist areasPetra, the Dead Sea,
Aqaba, and Ammanhave security. We walked to dinnera hip spot
called Wild Jordan thats run by the Royal Society for Conservation of
Nature, with the goal of developing social and economic sustainability for
Jordans nature reserves. King Abdullah, an avid sportsmanhe scubas
and skydivesis dedicated to protecting Jordans natural resources. My
jitters dissipated as we passed by well-kept apartments, chic shops, and
neighborhood gardens. It was exotic yet familiar. There were families,
college kids, couples, and lots of single men of all ages talking or playing
cards. Arabic is the ofcial language, but English is taught from grade
school onward.
Will I be able to climb? I asked again, trying not to sound pushy.
Our tour guide, a clever man named Kamel Jayusi had spent a lot of
time in Rum, but didnt climb. Neither did our Jamaican-born Jordanian Tourism Board liaison, Janine Jervis. But she had a friend who did,
and he planned to meet us around 9 p.m. back at the hotel. We sipped
$20 mai tais in the hotel courtyard, sitting next to sheikhs wearing kefyehs and immaculate white robes who were sipping tea and smoking
fruit-avored hookahs.
In walked Hakim. Hes a big guy, 6 2 or 6 3, wearing jeans, sneakers, and a T-shirt, with soulful brown eyes and shoulder-length black
hair tied back like a pirate. I cant take you climbing, he said regretfully. He had to be in Petra. Hed been hired to climb on the ancient
facades to check for cracks and loose rock. The National Geographic
Society was sending a lm crew. British climbing legend Joe Brown
had helped with access work there in the 1960s, and this time Hakim
CLIM BING.CO M
| 73
could use a drill to establish some anchors. I know one guide who can,
though, he said, but he can take only two climbers. Hakims words
were met with silenceat least six other writers in the group wanted
to climb, too.
In Lawrence of Arabia, Abu Tayeh describes himself as a river to his
people. Thats a good description of Hakim. Nearly single-handedly,
he has developed a community of Middle East
climbersthe rst ever. Theyve had two Wadi
Rum climbing festivals and are working on route
development on a limestone crag near Syria. There
are climbers from Lebanon, United Arab Emirates, and Iraq. Hakims company, Tropical Desert
Guiding Service, introduces people to hiking and
canyoneering in Jordan, but hes also taught a lot
of people to climb for free.
UNESCO had been alerted about a monstrous
boulder that was coming loose from the base of a
big wall in Petra. They called Tropical Desert and
set about a massive project to reattach the rock.
Then they turned their attention to the Siq (the
impossibly narrow slot canyon with 100-meterhigh walls that are the main entrance into Petra).
Hakim helped to install more than 70 devices that
would allow geologists and archaeologists to monitor rock movement. It was a majestic feeling when
they said they needed a device on the rock next to
the famous Monastery and Treasury, said Hakim.
Climbing there was one of the coolest things Ive
done in my life.
the Dead Sea (at 1,400 feet below sea level). While Amman is densely
populated, with big buildings, an extensive souk (open-air market), and
antiquities that date back 20,000 years, the rest of the country is vast
desert and mountains punctuated by amazingly fertile valleys and river
beds. The canyoneering in this area is amazingdeep slot canyons with
waterfalls and cascading pools, with oases of pink and oleander and
palm.
As you near the edge of the escarpment of Ras
en Naqab, big-featured mountains loom in the
distance. Theres the pyramid-shaped peaks of the
Barrah Mountains, and the porpoise-back arch
of Jebel Rum. While prehistoric man lived in this
area 200,000 years ago, and there are 2,000-yearold Nabatean ruins, this section of the Middle East
wasnt explored by Westerners until much later.
The classic lm, Lawrence of Arabia, introduced
Wadi Rum to the Western world (it won seven
Academy Awards in 1962). T.E. Lawrence (brilliantly played by Peter OToole), derided for his
obsession over the Jordanian desert, explains, It
is clean. And thats one of its attractions, but he
also called Wadi Rum magnicent, vast, echoing,
and godlike. But it is also achingly beautiful, exotic, and strangely intriguing.
During WWI, T.E. Lawrences love afair with
the Middle East (nurtured by the sensationalized
reporting of American journalist Lowell Thomas)
helped to bring the region to the worlds attention. His book Seven Pillars of Wisdom cemented
the relationshipespecially after it was made into an epic lm in
1963. In 1984, British climbers Tony Howard, Di Taylor, Al Baker, and
Mick Shaw watched the lm. Howard was determined to climb there.
He sent faxes to the Jordanian Ambassador in London, to the Tourism Ministry, and to King Hussein himself. Finally he got a reply. We
welcome you and your team to explore Wadi Rum for climbing and
trekking. And so it was written.
In 1984, there was only an old fort marking the old Saudi border, six
houses given to the sheikhs by King Husseina magnanimous gesture
and efort to bring them into the systema couple of concrete block
traverses/summits
bedouin
tick list
Most of these Wadi Rum routes cant
be found online or in guidebooks and
are appearing in Western climbing
media for the rst time.
By Wilfried Colonna
74 |
AUGUST 2 014
NORTH-SOUTH TRAVERSE
OF JEBEL RUM (5.5)
This 5,754-foot route is generally done in two days with a
bivouac on the mountain. Its
not difcult, but sustained
and long. If you dont have
prior experience at Jebel Rum,
you must visit with a guide.
Excellent route-nding skills
and a gentle touch will deliver
one of the most beautiful
experiences on The Lord
of Jordanian sandstone
summits, the Jebel Rum. For
experienced mountaineers
only! There is nothing harder
than low fh class; just tricky
scrambling, walking, and one
75-foot rappel. This can also
be done from south to north
(and thus without any rappel).
NORTH-SOUTH CROSSING
OF JEBEL GEDER (5.4)
If you want a rest day activity
or a short itinerary to take
in some scenery, tackle the
4,101-foot dome of Jebel
Geder crossing from north
to south. It starts with low
fh class climbing, followed
by a fairly long walk on the
domes toward a remote,
massive summit. Winding
around hanging terraces in
the middle of a wall on the
descent provides the most
intricate introduction to the
houses, maybe a dozen black goat-hair Bedouin tents, and a dusty shop
piled high with a confusion of clothes, kitchen utensils, and vegetables.
Howard remembers waking at dawn to see smoke curling up from the
res of the Bedouin tents as they roasted cofee beans before grinding
them in large bell-like brass mortars. Then chimes rang out, welcoming people to the tent. There was a well near the fort, but no electricity.
They were the only foreigners in the valley.
They were welcomed into Rum by the son of Sheikh Atieq and invited
to his desert camp where they explained they were looking for climbs,
and if the climbing were good, others might come. If they didnt want
that, Howard made it clear, the Brits would go. Sheikh Atieq agreed
to the proposal, but as the Bedouin had climbed everything, why did
the British need all that equipment when the mountains had all been
climbed with nothing! Howard quickly discovered that his hosts were
excellent mountaineers.
They lived and traveled with the Bedouin for two months, naming all
the mountains, nding the Burdah Bridge, and climbing Jebel Rum by
various Bedouin routes. The Bedouins proved sly sandbaggerstheyd
point out routes and let the climbers have a gosometimes not explaining that the seemingly straightforward route might require a bivy or two.
The British team also established some new climbs, including a route
to the baroque-shaped 1,580-meter summit of Jebel Kharazeh through
splitter cracks, hidden chimneys, and solid, black patina rock, one of the
few peaks not climbed by the Bedouin. Its Vanishing Pillar was staring
them in the face every day, so it had to be climbed. The next year, Wilfried Colonna, a charismatic French guide who resembles a young Sean
Connery, met Howard and Taylor in Morocco. Wilfried joined the Wadi
Rum exploration team and became one of the regions top advocates. In
1992, he helped to reintroduce Arabian horses back into Wadi Rum, as
the population had dwindled after the Arab Revolt.
The village has grown since Howard rst arrivedthere are now three
overspill villages out of Rum Valley, north of the Nature Reserve Visitor Center. There are two schools, one for the boys and one for the girls.
Some of the local Bedouin population and guides worry that despite the
fact that Wadi Rum was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in
2011, a plan from the ASEZA (Aqaba SpecialEconomic Zone Authority)
to approve 700 building plots adjacent to the village (opposite the Rest
House) may impact the areas unique geography, wilderness, and charm
that earned it UNESCO designation in the rst place. Debate about the
LUKA FONDA
moderate
THE HADJ (5.8+)
South Face of Jebel Sweibits
South Summit
7 pitches
This is one of the most
southern climbs in the region,
a 45-minute drive from Rum
Village and not far from the
Saudi border. A true area
classic on a beautiful summit.
GOLDFINGER (5.9)
East Face of Jebel Rums
East Dome
4 pitches
A great introductory route to
the area on the small central
tower at the base of the Main
East Face of Jebel Rum, just
above Rum Village. The twopitch approach to the main
nger crack is on poor rock
but easy (5.4). Then it moves
onto 115 feet of perfect
sandstone with great protection (5.9). The top pitch is a
bit sandy (5.9+). Descend by
four rappels on glue-in rings
with chains to the lef of the
tower along the route called
Troubadour (5.10b).
MOHAMED BOUAZIZI (5.9)
Um Rashid North
5 pitches
A fairly easy route, with only
one hard and steep passage
in the middle of a black wall,
but its well-protected with
wires and small cams. The
rest is 5.6 max on low-angle
rock, and ends in local alpine
terrain, which allows you to
scramble easily to the summit
via the west side. Then get
back to the sands by a beautiful Bedouin path that travels
southeast into the hidden valley behind. A harder variation
GIRAFFE WITHOUT
NIQAB (5.9+)
East Face of Jebel Geders
South Summit
5 pitches
A short afernoon route (with
shade!) on the beautiful south
part of the massif. Its on the
way to The Hadj (see lef).
The rock is fairly sof on the
upper part of this obvious corner, but solid on the top crux
section. Use caution during
the required ledge scramble
that links the two parts of
the route. Its full of loose
CLIM BING.COM
| 75
potential impact that more houses (and cars) would have on the tranquil
community and pristine nature of the landscape is erce in town and
around campres.
Jordan today, there are only a handful who guide technical routes, and
only three real professional mountain guides in Wadi Rum (as recognized by other professional guiding associations from abroad).
Climbing has grown in popularity in Jordan. Climbat, the climbing
gym in Amman and the biggest in the Middle East, has about 5,000
members. The gym is rst-classit hosted a World Cup in 2011.
76 | AUGUST 2 014
There are now several bolted limestone crags north of Amman. About
500 climbers visit Wadi Rum each year for technical climbing and
the Bedouin routes. The traditional Bedouin routes are more about
mountaineering and alpinism than pure technical climbing, even if
some parts of Wadi Rum clifs look like sport climbing crags. There
are still only a few fully bolted climbs. Most of the climbing here is
about trad: nuts, cams, wedged knots, and threads on soft sandstone.
On my second trip, this time with Backpacker magazine, I ew
in early to hang out with some of the local climbers in Amman. Mai
Turki picked me up from the airport; shes an active part of the local
climbing community. My ride back to the airport was with Safa Muhi,
the rst sponsored female climber from Iraq. I asked her what it was
like being a female climber in a Muslim country. I grew up in Iraq,
she said. When you live your life expecting death any second like kids
waiting for snow on Christmas, and then you get the chance to live a
normal lifeone when you kiss your mum goodbye as you leave the
house because its customary, not because you might go out that door
and not come back alivea life where you get to feel bored once in a
while, it makes you grab every chance you get to feel alive and never
miss a moment because the idea of dying any second still hunts you
down. I love climbing; I never let myself feel bored because its shameful to feel that way after I was given a better life to live. She refers to
Hakim as the godfather of climbing in Jordan, and Wilfried as the
great-godfather. Both Mai and Safa are Muslim, but neither wears a
headscarf (however, women can and do climb while wearing sleektting hijabs). Safa comes from a traditional Iraqi family. She and her
sisters ed to Jordan during the war, but her father and brothers remained in Baghdad. Her father originally discouraged climbing; he
worried shed get hurt. He suggested that it was forbidden in Islam.
Her mother calmly replied that Khadejeh, the wife of Prophet Mohammad, used to climb Jabal al-Noor (mountain of the light) to bring
him water and food. I asked Mohammad Hammad about the proliferation of female climbers in Jordan. Many of the visiting European
climbers in Rum are women, he said. And there are girls from the
North (Amman) who climbbut none from the traditional South.
But he guilelessly told me, Some shepherd girls are pushing very far
in terms of Bedouin routes with their goats. Amy and I plan to return
to Rum and see if we can get the girls in harnesses. I asked him if hed
teach his daughter to climb, and he said of course, but that shed be
THE PILLAR OF
WISDOM (5.10B)
East Face of Jebel Rum
15 pitches
It has an irresistible appeal
to the heart of any climber.
It was one of the rst lines
discovered by the rst
Anglo-French to climb here
and quickly became a classic
at the intermediate level,
with a spectacular crux in
the last few meters. The
rock is generally sof but
solid enough to offer ne
Wadi Rum strictly follows the traditional climbing ethos, and even the use of chalk is frowned
upon by locals. The bold routes of Austrian cleanto hundreds of climbs from
climbing legend Albert Precht have by far the
Rum Village, and some of the most classic are
purest ethic and present the greatest challenge
LEBANON
just a few minutes to an easy hour away. One fathough not many climbers attempt the necky
IRAQ
SYRIA
mous is Jihad (also known as La Guerre Sainte),
runouts. Only three bolts were used to complete
a wild multi-pitch sport route located on the eastthe 10-pitch, 350-foot Pillar of Wisdom, rst
ern side of Jebel Um Ishrin, east of Rum Village.
climbed by Colonna, Howard, and Taylor in 1986.
Jerash
AMMAN
This 400-meter desert beast was bolted by French
Subsequently, Colonna and the Jordanian TourDead Sea
ism Board have worked to put safety rappels on
climber Arnaud Petit and graded at 7b+ (5.12c).
ISRAEL
SAUDI
popular descents. And outside the Protected Area,
The rst few pitches are very exposed; bolts can
ARABIA
JORDAN
sport-specic crags are continually being develbe four to six meters apart, but the sandstone is
Petra
oped. There are now some superb routes on Nasssolid there. Near the third pitch is some crimpy
raniya in particular.
climbing, but farther up, the rock gets sketchier,
EGYPT
Wadi Rum
Rum rock is sandstone, mostly good but some
and with such distance between bolts, you want to
not. It can go from really hard to the consistency
move cautiously to avoid a 12-meter fall.
Red Sea
of a frozen snow cone. And as always with advenOn my second trip, I did the four-day hike from
ture climbing, its a matter of learning to read and
the Feynan Eco Lodge (Dana Biosphere Reserve)
GET THERE You can climb year-round in
respect the rock. Like in Indian Creek, the Doloto Petra. I had a few days in Wadi Rum and disWadi Rum, but the real season is late Sepcovered the quintessential rest day. From the
mites, the Black Canyon, and Zionthe color of
tember through mid-November and March
village, you can retrace T.E. Lawrences footsteps
the rock can tell you a lot. Route-nding on Bedthrough May. There are ights to Amman
ouin routes is almost always tricky, and descents
across the desert while scouting the best climbing
from Chicago, New York and Detroit (ying
are rarely obvious. The general rule for Bedouin
walls. The dramatic landscape has narrow gorges,
through Montreal) on Royal Jordanian
routes, as Colonna told me, is to avoid difculties
natural arches, towering clifs, ramps, and caves
Airlines. You can also y from any airline
if possible and think like a Bedouin, who is thinkthat shelter more than 25,000 documented rock
through Europe and catch a short ight
ing like an ibex. And ibexes are brilliant climbers.
carvings, with 20,000 inscriptions that trace the
to Amman. There are buses available at
Newer routes do generally follow the obvious lines
evolution of human thought and the early develthe Queen Alia Airport, but the best bet
opment of the alphabet. The area is 720 square
and crack systems. Wadi Rum has some bolted
is to hire a driver via a guide service (hire
kilometersnearly 300 square miles. We walked
sandstone walls (with glue-in rings preferred over
Mohammad Hammad himself at bedouinfrom where the Nabateans settled in 300 B.C.; this
bolts), and theres also some easier multi-pitch
guides.com). Find a comprehensive list of
was the rst place olive trees were domesticated.
stuf where people hone their trad skills before
resources at climbing.com/jordan.
The village is on the site of an important Nabatean
launching up the big stuf. The commitment level
trading route between Arabia and Syria. We hiked about a mile to Lawchanges quickly, and the nature of the sandstone forces you at rst to
rence Springs, where T.E. Lawrence was hiding during World War I.
climb one or two grades lower than usual. Even at a higher level.
Most of the scenes in Lawrence of Arabia were shot there in 1963. Then,
Beneath the Rum sandstone there is a plinth of granite, which ofers
across a couple of miles of unbroken desertthe heart of the reserve
excellent bouldering and a few 20-meter climbs. Outside Rum, there
and then to Al-Khazali Canyonwhere theres a beautiful slot canyon
are the granite and basalt mountains of Aqaba, striated with igneous
to explore.
intrusions. Only two or three scrambles have been done therebut the
stout
MUEZZIN (5.11A)
East Pillar of North Tower
15 pitches
Climb up the sand dune to
beta
reach the start of this exceptional climb up an impossiblelooking pillar. Its fascinating
for its committing character,
entirely on trad protection
without a piece of metal in
sight. This is the calling card
of the famous Austrian team
who developed it. No bolts,
never! Exactly the opposite
character of Jihad (a bolted
5.12c). Its denitely a big
climb and for competent parties only. Nothing technically
harder than 5.10d, but the
crux pitch is very sustained,
pushing the grade to 5.11a.
Plan for a seven- to nine-hour
climb. Descend on the rappels
of Jihad.
TOWERING INFERNO
(5.12A/B)
East Face of Jebel Rums
East Dome
12 to 13 pitches
Elegant climbing along a very
direct system of supercial
cracks and open corners.
Very popular for the rst four
pitches, constituting the
Shortclimb Inferno (5.10b).
The rock is mostly perfect,
albeit with some short sofer
CLIM BING.CO M
| 77
PROVIDENTIAL ALUZZA
(5.12D OR 5.11C A0)
West Face of Jebel Khazali
10 pitches
One of the hidden gems of
Wadi Rum, since its concealed in a little side canyon
at the end of the main West
Face of Jebel Khazali. An
exceptional and intimidating
line up a smooth dihedral.
Steep and strenuous crack
climbing brings the pump
up high on the dihedral.
78 | AUGUST 2 014
GESCHENK GOTTES
(5.10D A1)
West Face of Um Ishrin Tower
23 pitches
This ranks as one of the great-
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY; JORDAN TOURISM BOARD; ELAD OMER
Lef: Although climbing at Petra is illegal, guide Hakim Tamimi climbs next to the Treasury to help
the government assess damage to the monuments. Above: Descending from the East Face of Nassraniya North Tower. Below: The village of Wadi Rum sits in a low, at valley, with monstrous walls,
like the Jebel Rum massif, looming right outside the city limits.
potential is obvious. To the north, the sandstone appears at its colorful best in Petra. North again there is some conglomerate near Dana.
And as you head farther north, there are some sandstone canyons with
basalt intrusions. Northward from here, the rock is mostly limestone,
providing some trad climbs and many sport climbs, particularly at Al
Ayoun, north of Ajloun Castle.
With so
much political turmoil
nearby, Jordan is the
anchor of
the climbing
community.
East closed to climbing due to political turmoil, Jordan has become the
anchor of the climbing community. With the development of a strong
local climbing community in the past year, a pro-Western culture, and
increased media attention, Wadi Rum is moving from an exotic dream
to a must-do on every trad climbers bucket list.
One of the harder climbs in Wadi Rum is the bolted Glory, a vepitch sport route put up by Ofer Blutrich, a very strong Israeli climber.
It goes at 8a+ (5.13c) and sports a hard, spectacular, and ultra-technical
third crux pitch. The rest of the pitches (10a, 12a, 12b, 12a, respectively)
are all beautiful, technical friction climbing on steep, dark rock. This
spring, Klemen Becan, a Slovenian climber, did the rst 8b+ (5.14a) of
Wadi Rum. It might be the least-steep 8b+ in the worldeven less than
verticala testament to the technical level of the testpiece.
Mohammad and Wilfried came to visit at our campsite. Rather than
the group desert camp where there are big, individual sleeping tents,
bathrooms, and even showers, this time we were carrying our own
tents and stretching out under the stars on the still-warm desert sand.
Id brought a new rope for Mohammad and climbing shoes for them
bothit is still nearly impossible to nd technical climbing gear in Jordan. My group had made chocolate mousse for dessert, which Mohammad and Wilfried loved. Wilfried accepted a glass of wine, and we spent
the next couple of hours talking about climbinga universal language.
Sitting around the campre, shooting stars overhead, we spoke about
religion and politics, culture, and climbing. We sipped outrageously
sweet tea that Shuayb Twassi, a terric guide from Petra, had prepared
on a nest of three rocks. The next day, I went camel ridingsomething
Id do everyday if I lived there. I took the reins from a young boy who
was helping his father and uncles. Im comfortable on a camel, and I
smiled as it sprinted of across the desert, threatening to toss me of like
a scene in Lawrence of Arabia. I grasped the reigns more tightly. Looking down, I saw theyd been made of an old climbing rope. //
Nancy Prichard-Bouchard, Ph.D., is a longtime climber, writer, and
risk-management expert. She has written about climbing, gear, and adventure travel for more than two decades and has established the rstever Middle East Climbing Team (sponsored by Five Ten). She thanks
Mohammad Hammad, Hakim Tamimi-Marino, Safa Muhi, Mai Turki, Tony Howard, Wilfried Colonna, Bassam Kubba, Sushi Firas, Elad
Omer, Amy Jurries, and Shuayb Twaissi for their contributions.
CLIM BING.COM
| 79
ANDREW BURR
PATAGONIA
NANO PUFF
Most versatile puffy jacket ever
We werent sure what to make of this wispy, synthetic-ll
jacket when it came out in 2009; puffy jackets were supposed
to be just thatpuffyand this iteration looked too thin for
real use. But it soon found its way into our packs and onto our
backs every season; its a midlayer in extreme cold and an outer
layer when the temps start to dip. Might as well be our uniform.
Its light (10.1 oz. for the mens medium), packs small (grapefruit
size), and pleasantly warm for the weight; plus, the 60 grams of
PrimaLoft One insulation will still keep you toasty even after
its been dampened in an afternoon storm. It brings me peace
of mind when the sun sinks low and Im still on the wall. The
pullover version with a half-zip is the original model that kicked
off the now-popular super-light puffy category, and a full-zip
jacket came out in 2010. Designers were forward-thinking from
the get-go, as the only changes over the years have been small
updates to its overall t. Many members of our expert panel
have the same jacket they got almost ve years ago, and they
still use it and abuse it year-round. Ive had half a dozen jackets
that try to mimic the Nano Puff, one user said, but I reach
for my beloved Nano for every objective, every season, every
year. It delivers the perfect balance of warmth for the weight.
The slim prole layers well underneath a shell, or you can wear
it as your outermost piece for windproof protection and solid
water resistance, thanks to a DWR coating. Pack it into its own
pocket, clip it on your harness, and go. Plus, with Patagonias
stellar lifetime guarantee, you can return it at anytime if it rips,
tears, or otherwise degrades.
$199$249; patagonia.com
PETZL
GRIGRI
Most popular assisted-braking belay device
and the best
Duh was the common response from
our expert panel when asked why the Grigri
was deserving. With the promise of additional stopping power after its 1991 release,
the Grigri changed the sport climbing world,
and it created a brand-new category: assisted-braking belay devices. When the climber
falls or the rope is jerked upward, an inner
cam engages and pinches the rope to stop
it from moving. It was no replacement for a
good belayer, but now sport climbers could
hang on the rope as much as they wanted
without fear of overly fatiguing their belayers. It brought a whole new level of safety
to climbing, according to one 30-yearveteran climber. Although it shines in the
bolt-clipping department, youd be mistaken
not to try it out for other disciplines. One
nominator said he doesnt go multi-pitch
climbing without his Grigri, whether hes
belaying a second off the anchor, jugging, or
82 | AUGUST 20 14
MSR
REACTOR
The benchmark for cooking efciency
Simply put, its the best stove for the vertical alpine. Big wallers, alpinists, and guides have been singing the
praises of the Reactor and its unparalleled efciency, smart nesting of burner/pot/canister, perfect size for a
small alpine party, and ideal performance in strong winds since it came out in 2007. The Heat Exchanger Pot
nestles around the burner for maximum stove-pot contact and minimal wind interference, which makes it very
fast and efcient. One guide who has more than 2,000 alpine meals under his belt said, My only complaint
is that sometimes I dont even have time to get my dinner pouch open and poured into my bowl before the
water is boiling! The biggest change since it hit the market seven years ago was a 2008 update in the manufacturing process of the original one-liter pot, which shaved about two ounces, but recent accessory additions
of a hanging kit and a French press adapter (called absolute godsends and pure genius by fans) mean this
little cooker now does even more. Some stoves might have slightly faster boiling times than the Reactors 3.5
minutes (one liter), and others might have the ability to use more types of fuel, but none of those setups has
the time-tested performance in all types of conditions that the Reactor has had with our testers. With the
addition of two more sizes1.7 liters and 2.5 litersthis stove has earned its place in history.
$190$220; msrgear.com
CAMP
PINK
TRICAM
The missing link that ts where
nothing else will
Climbing shoes have a huge turnover rate within the gear market; every year there are at least a
dozen new sticky-rubber kicks to choose from. So for a rock shoe to stick around for more than
20 yearswith no major updates or changes or dropping out of the line entirelythats a strong
testament to its tried and true performance. While we dont have any solid statistics on this, we
feel comfortable saying that the majority of climbers we know have owned at least one pair of La
Sportiva Mythos in their lives. Designed by the genius Italian cobblers of La Sportiva, the Mythos
offers versatility, comfort, and performance in a package that ts almost every foot. The only
thing I dont use the shoes for is climbing overhanging sport routes, but Ive still seen people crush
5.12 roofs with the Mythos! said one tester. By keeping your foot in a at position and wrapping
it in cozy, unlined leather, the Mythos are ridiculously easy to wear all day while keeping your feet
happy. The unique lacing system actually wraps the laces around the back of the foot to keep it
in position within the shoe, without needing a skin-tight t. A narrow, pointed toe means youll
still get a moderate amount of performance on face climbs, and rubber that comes up about two
inches all the way around the foot means these are absolutely ideal for crack climbing. In 2011, La
Sportiva produced 1,000 pairs of a 20th Anniversary Gold Edition Mythos for the truly dedicated.
Despite Climbings original review in September 1991 that said, Half [the testers] liked them, the
other half didnt, we wouldnt be surprised if were still celebrating this shoe 10 years from now.
$140; sportiva.com
$24; camp-usa.com
LA SPORTIVA
MYTHOS
CLIM BING.CO M
| 83
ORGANIC
FULL PAD
The only crashpad youll
ever need
BLACK DIAMOND
CAMALOT C4
Climbers choice for top all-around cams
They werent the rst. Theyre not the lightest. Theyre not the newest. But sometimes being the best isnt
about those things. And our numbers dont lie: The Camalot C4s were unanimously voted in as the best midrange cams by our panel of experts. Everyone knows the sizes and corresponding colors, unlike other brands,
one devotee said. Most racks are built with the Camalot C4. Designed by Tony Christianson, Julio Varela, and
Honk Kyu Kwak in the mid-1980s, the Camalot had a distinct advantage over earlier spring-loaded camming
devices in the form of a double-axle design, which greatly increased the camming range of each individual
unit, meaning one piece could t more crack sizes. Chouinard Equipment, which became Black Diamond,
began marketing them as Camalots (so-named from various employee suggestions) in fall 1987, and three major
updates later, Camalots are still the gold standard for trad climbers. Camalots have easier, smoother trigger action, slot into placements faster, hold better in shallow cracks, and both the metal of the lobes and wires and
the nylon of the slings last longer. We do love the exible stems of Aliens, the narrow heads of Metolius Master Cams, and the groundbreaking innovation of Wild Country Friends, but the C4s have the best all-around
performance and durability. Twenty-seven years after their rst appearance, one climber says hes still having a
love affair with these Batman tools for the vertical world.
$60$120; blackdiamondequipment.com
FIVE TEN
GUIDE TENNIES
An approach shoe in its purest form
A small slip on the descent from Sentinel Rock in
Yosemite in July 1985, was enough to launch Five Ten
as a company, approach shoes as a gear category,
and sticky rubber as a necessity for climbing. Charles
Cole revolutionized the climbing world in 1986 with
his creation of Stealth high-friction rubber, and then
he did it again when he slapped it on the bottom of
the Five Tennie to give climbers better traction when
traveling to and from climbs. Although the Five Tennie
was relatively successful, the uppers fell apart easily,
so climbers would take the rubber from them and put
it on their climbing shoes. Since that model lacked
the burl and brawn that climbers truly needed, Five
Ten answered the call with the Guide Tennie in 1995.
I have worn them religiously since they came out,
84 | AUGUST 2 014
MOUNTAIN PROJECT
PETZL
APP
METEOR
Free; mountainproject.com
$100; petzl.com
BLACK DIAMOND
ATC-GUIDE
CLIM BING.CO M
| 85
THE FLOW
SOMETIMES THINGS DONT GO QUITE AS PLANNED. For whatever reason, you may nd yourself in a situation where youre considering cutting your losses and getting off the wall or backing down from that summit. While this is usually the safest bet, its also the
least fun, and you may have to leave behind gear in the process. Heres how to make the call.
Note: This guide cant cover every situation (the summit has free pizza [dont bail], new episode of Game of Thrones is on in an hour [bail], climbing partner has
terrible gas [complain, but keep climbing], etc.,) so develop and use your own good judgment.
Storms a
brewing.
Im injured.
Do you have time to
make it to the ground
before it hits?
Yes.
No, its
pretty much
here.
I cant do
this move.
Im scared.
Why?
I got a
apper on
my ngie.
No.
Do you have
headlamps?
No.
Climb by
headlamp!
Yes.
Ive
whipped
ve times.
Yes.
No.
Is it in a safe spot to fall?
BAIL AND
GO TO THE
HOSPITAL!
88 | AUGUST 2 014
Im scared because
Im high above the
ground, hanging on a
sheer rock wall with
my bare hands.
Im way out of
my league. I dont
know what Im
doing up here.
Yes.
Bail. Come
back and
try again
when
stronger.
Yes.
No.
Paige Claassen on a rare female ascent of the Americas first 5.14, To Bolt or Not to Be, at Smith Rock, OR - Photo: Rich Crowder
crux
big lockoff
reach
delicate feet
worst crimp
RF step thru
2 finger gaston
undercling
high stem RF
gaston
giant lockoff
smooth surf
match
SUPERNOVA
gaston
match
thumb
undercling
RF way out
step thru
smear match
bump
thumb
undercling
A harness designed by a woman for women. The Supernova is the brainchild of athlete
Paige Claassen who worked with CAMP R&D for two years to merge the elements of fit
and features for elite female climbers. In the end, the Supernova is packed with exclusive
features like a specially contoured waist belt that cups to the female form, modified
edge-load construction to perfectly distribute the load, and our patented No-Twist belay
loop and Flat Link elastic connecting the waist belt and leg loops.
camp-usa.com
NO MATTER
HOW HIGH
YOU CLIMB.
AVIOR GTX
- 100% re-soleable.
- Special click-clamp eyelets for more secure, custom ft.
- Vari-volume ft adaption feature by way of removeable
tongue as well as additional footbeds supplied.
- 100% waterproof with Gore-Tex.
- Elevated Brim: using an all-round handcrafted rubber
rand to protect from scree and rocks and increases
stability and durability.
- Extremely lightweight (950 g size UK 7).
- Thermal insoluation down to -20 C.
- Vibram* Alpin outsole features torsionally stiff sole,
crampon compatible.
- Features internal boot.
www.hanwagboot.com