07/01/2010 Canon Digital Learning Center

Painting with Light, with Erin Manning

Painting with light can produce images that range from ethereal and beautiful to funky and
fun, but how do you paint with light? What are you painting with? What are you painting on? Is
expensive equipment required? Why does this technique sound so mysterious? These
questions and more came to mind when I initially heard about “painting with light.” But I’m
here to tell you that it’s not mysterious, difficult, or pricey. Painting with light is easy, fun,
inexpensive and produces amazing results.

Multicolored holiday lights wound up in a ball, then jiggled in front of the cam era lens created this abstract
im age. Taken at ISO 100; f/9; Bulb exposure 14 sec. with a Canon EF 24-105m m f/4L IS lens (image © Erin
Manning)

PAINTING WITH LIGHT: WHAT IS IT?

Every photograph we take could be considered “painting or drawing with light.” The very word “photography” is
derived from the two Greek words “phos” meaning light, and “graphis” meaning “to draw.” How illuminating! But
the contemporary technique I’m using is achieved by shooting images in a dark environment with a very slow
shutter speed and using a light source, such as a flashlight, to creatively “paint” your subject or the air with light.
The camera’s long exposure time captures light and movement in a
creative way so that each picture is truly unique.

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creative way so that each picture is truly unique.

WHAT YOU NEED

The following checklist includes everything you need to create these
magical images.

1. A digital SLR camera or a compact digital camera capable of

long exposures. You can take good photos with the right
compact camera, but a dSLR camera has a higher quality
sensor and offers longer exposure times. I’m using the Canon
EOS Rebel T1i for this demonstration.
2. A cable release or electronic remote. When using a long
exposure, even a slight movement from pressing the shutter
button can result in blurry images. A cable release or wireless
remote lets you concentrate on capturing the image, wiggle free.
Simply attach the release to the camera and start shooting.
When using a long exposure, even a slight
movem ent from pressing the shutter button
can result in blurry images. A cable release or
wireless rem ote lets you concentrate on
capturing the im age, wiggle free. Sim ply
attach the release to the cam era and start
shooting.

3. A tripod, or other stable surface. Reduce camera shake and the resulting blurred images by using a tripod
during long exposure times (depending on your lens focal length, anywhere from about 1/60 sec all the way
to BULB). A general rule of thumb in photography is to use a tripod if
your shutter speed is slower than the focal length of your lens. For
example, if you’re using a 50mm lens and your shutter speed is set to
anything below 1/50 sec., you need a tripod or other solid surface to
steady your camera.

4. One or more “painting” light sources. A variety of light sources can be

used, ranging from simple flashlights to fiber optic light pens. Other
sources of light include candles, matches, glow sticks, and holiday
lights. Look around your house or the local hardware store, you may
find some interesting “light painting” devices.

5. A very dark location. Avoid any ambient light that may enter the scene
from open windows, computer monitors, or streetlights.

CAMERA SETTINGS
Painting your images with light requires a few basic camera settings
to ensure a successful image.
Reduce cam era shake and the
resulting blurred im ages by using a IMAGE QUALITY: Since high-capacity memory cards are
tripod during long exposure times available now at relatively low prices, I recommend setting your
(1/100 sec to BULB). A general rule
camera image quality at the highest resolution possible. A high-
of thum b in photography is to use a
tripod if your shutter speed is slower resolution image gives you creative freedom to adjust and crop
than the focal length of your lens. For without losing the pixel count and resolution necessary to
example, if you’re using a 50m m produce sharp prints. You never know when you’re going to
lens and your shutter speed is set to
anything below 1/50 sec., you need
capture that magical shot.
a tripod or other solid surface to
steady your cam era. The IMAGE QUALITY setting is located in the MENU. All digital
cameras offer
a high-
resolution JPEG setting denoted by a large L, or
FINE. Some digital cameras offer a RAW setting
that allows you to shoot uncompressed images

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with greater capacity for adjustment and
enhancement. Keep in mind that a RAW image file
requires additional processing with proprietary
camera software or a third party application.
Unless I’m shooting in a situation with varying light, I
often set my camera to the highest quality JPEG
setting. Digital cameras vary so check your
owner’s manual for specifics. A variety of light sources can be used, ranging from
simple flashlights to fiber optic light pens. Other
sources of light include candles, m atches, glow sticks,
ISO: Long exposure times and high ISO settings and holiday lights. Look around your house or the local
can introduce discolored pixels in your image, also hardware store, you m ay find som e interesting “light
known as “noise.” A good way to reduce the painting” devices.
potential noise in your image is to set your ISO to a
low setting, such as 100.

FOCUS: I often take a test shot with my on-camera flash and the Focus Mode Switch set to Auto
Focus (AF). These settings enable me to see the composition and set the focus in a dark
environment. Then I turn off the flash and set my Focus Mode Switch to Manual Focus (MF). This
prevents the camera’s auto focus system from searching for focus in a dark scene. Alternatively, you
could leave your Focus Mode Switch set to MF and light your subject with a flashlight to adjust the
focus manually.

EXPOSURE: Set the Mode Dial to Manual (M). This setting allows you to set both the shutter speed
and aperture as desired, and it’s the only setting that enables the BULB exposure. Most digital SLR
cameras offer a maximum shutter speed of 30 seconds, but a BULB exposure keeps the shutter
open for as long as you hold down the shutter button. This is a nice option if you’re photographing the
celestial heavens, fireworks, or
anything else where a longer
exposure is needed. I use BULB
exposure because I like the freedom
of deciding the duration of my
exposure time while I’m in the midst
of painting with light. If you are
working in an area with some
ambient light, or have a very bright
light source you're painting with, you
may want to set speeds slower than
30 full seconds. Experiment with
faster shutter speeds, such as 4, 8,
or 15 seconds. You also have to set
Painting your im ages with light requires a few basic cam era settings to your lens aperture, or lens opening.
ensure a successful image. Try the settings suggested in this tip (low A good starting point, if you're on a
ISOs, Manual Focusing, etc), or experiment to find what works best for
you. tripod, is an aperture such as f/8 or
f/11. This will give you good
sharpness, although it will require
the shutter to stay open longer than if you used your widest apertue (that is, lowest f-number). If your
light source looks too bright, consider a smaller aperture (higher f-number, such as f/16).

WHITE BALANCE: There are many different types of light, and each light source has its own color
temperature. This translates to color casts in your images. For example, when I use a “standard bulb”
or tungsten flashlight the light is golden, but when I use a LED flashlight the light has a bright white,
almost blue color cast. You can adjust this color cast by adjusting your camera’s White Balance (WB).
Scroll through the white balance options and choose one that matches your specific light condition. If
you aren’t sure, then just experiment and see what looks best to you. It doesn’t have to be perfect, or
look “normal.” Another way to alter the colorcast is to tape a colored acetate “gel” on the front of your
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light source.

HOW IT’S DONE

Attach your camera to a tripod or stabilize it on a steady surface, then take a shot with your on-camera flash to
check your composition and focus. Now set your lens Focus Mode Switch to manual focus (MF). Your prior test
shot should have set your focus correctly, if not, you can manually focus by illuminating your subject with a
flashlight.

PAINTING YOUR SUBJECT: If you’re using a long exposure setting, for example, 1 to 30 seconds,
press the shutter once. If you’re using BULB exposure, hold the shutter until you decide to end the
exposure, then release. The advantage of using the BULB exposure is the freedom to expose your
subject for as long as you want. Once the shutter is open, use your flashlight or other creative light
source to paint on your subjects, illuminating them in the darkness. Just like a paintbrush, a larger light
source creates broad strokes of light, while a smaller light source allows you to paint or draw more
precisely. Experiment with fast strokes or slow methodical movements. The areas you paint slowly will
be brighter than areas you paint fast. Be careful not to linger too long over the same area or it may
become overexposed. Review your images on your LCD viewfinder to find the technique that gives
you the desired results.

Here some examples of this technique:

Painting this dark scene with a flashlight during a long exposure produced an underwater feel. Taken at ISO
100; f/14; BULB exposure 10 sec. with a Canon EF 24-105m m f/4L IS lens.(im age © Erin Manning)

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Painting Gianina’s face with a standard-bulb flashlight created a soft, golden glow. Taken at ISO 100; f/8; BULB
exposure 17 sec with a Canon EF 24-105m m f/4L IS lens(im age © Erin Manning)

AIR GRAFFITI: This is a fun technique! No muss, no fuss, and no cleanup involved. Drawing in the air
with a flashlight or other light source can create some very entertaining and unique images. Just like
writing with a pen, you can use a penlight to create drawings in the air and photograph them. It helps
to have friends or family members dressed in dark clothing assist you in your “painting with light”
adventure. Experiment exposure settings. When drawing with light, the shutter stays open as long as it
takes to record the light writing. The aperture controls the brightness of the image. You may need to
take a few shots before perfecting these adjustments, although an ISO setting of 100 and f/8 aperture
is a good place to start.

Here are some examples of this technique:

I wrapped white holiday lights around a Hula hoop and instructed my

model to move the hula hoop around to create the light design. Taken at
ISO 100; f/22; 20 sec. with a Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS lens (im age ©
Erin Manning)

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Gianina pretended to blow a kiss while Jenny stood behind her and painted “m ake-believe” breath with a LED
flashlight. I illum inated Gianina’s face with a standard bulb flashlight . Taken at ISO 100; f/16; 15 sec. with a
Canon EF 24-105m m f/4L IS lens (image © Erin Manning)

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I had Gianina stand behind Jenny and slowly outline her with a flashlight.
Taken at ISO 100; f/16; 25 sec. with a Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS lens
(im age © Erin Manning)

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I wrapped Gianina in white holiday lights and instructed her to twist back
and forth while I sim ultaneously lit her face with a flashlight. Taken at ISO
100; f/16; 18 sec. with a Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS lens (image © Erin
Manning)

I used a fiber optic pen that glowed in red and blue and swirled it in front of
my camera lens. Taken at ISO 100; f/9; 9 sec. with a Canon EF 24-105mm
f/4L IS lens (im age © Erin Manning)

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FINAL THOUGHTS
Photography is all about the use of light and imagination. When you’re painting with light remember to
experiment, try different techniques, and be open to what your own creative eye enjoys and appreciates. Get out
there and give it a whirl!

To see how an award-winning industrial/fine art photographer uses a variation of this 'Painting with Light'
technique on a much larger scale for surreal and incredibly-detailed environmental portraits, check out our
interview and making-of video with Eric Curry (click to view)

Erin Manning is a professional photographer, teacher and television personality living in Los Angeles, California. Television viewers know Erin
best as the digital photography expert and host of DIY Network’s Telly-award-winning TV series The Whole Picture. She has also appeared as
the techno-lifestyle guru on Enab le Your Home and is author of Portrait and Candid Photography (published by Wiley). She helps people
understand photography and technology by translating technical m umbo-jum bo into everyday words and by facilitating their learning with a
clear, friendly teaching style.

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