myfordboy's furnace

After making quite a few castings using just a large propane torch and a pile of fire bricks I thought it was time to make a
proper furnace. The torch and fire bricks works ok, but is a pain to set up and wastes a lot of expensive gas.
I looked around for a suitable sized steel dustbin ( trash can) but couldn't find one suitable at the time, so decided to roll
my own.
This is how my furnace was made.
I bought a small sheet of 0.5mm steel from the local DIY store and some 25mm x 25mm steel box section. The sheet
steel was cut to size and rolled to form the body and the box section added to form the legs. One of the legs is longer than
the others and extends to the top of the furnace.
50mm x 6mm galv screws and nuts were used to join the ends of the sheet together, passing the screws through the long
leg and into the steel casing. There were left full length on the inside as this will help hold the refactory in place.
A hole was made for the tuyere and a disc of MDF cut to be a snug fit on the inside of the casing. Two further pieces of
MDF were cut and holes made in them to suit the outside diameter of the casing. These 2formers were placed as shown
below to keep the casing in shape when the refactory is added. The disc has a sheet of plastic laid on top to prevent the
refactory sticking to it.

The disc in the photo is resting on top of some wooden

packing equal to the height of the plastic paint can
which will be used for the inside former, less the
thickness of the disc. The 20mm dia white plastic tube
you can see was to form a trough and escape hole for
any metal spills but this has proved to be too small.
The drawing shows a suggested size for this which I
would use if I ever made another.

The Refactory.
From a garden center I bought a 100Lt bag of Perlite and from a stove center, two 12.5 Kg tubs of Fire Cement. After the
job was finished I had half a bag of the perlite and about 1/4 tub of fire cement left.
The mix is 4 parts of Perlte to 1 part Fire Cement by volume. It is not that easy to mix so and I found the best way was to
add a little water to the fire cement and mix in a bucket using your hands ( wear rubber gloves). Any water added has to
be evaporated before the furnace can be used so as little as possible was used but enough to make the mix workable.

At the bottom, some galvanised steel wire was tied between

the protruding screws inside the casing to help key the
refactory to the furnace, like the reinforcing bars that are used
that in concrete.
The mix was then added .........

.....and smoothed to a nice finish.

This now has to be left to dry. It could take a few days depending on the air temperature in your part of the world. When it
was dry enough to handle it was turned over and the disc removed.
For the inside former I used 5Lt + 10% extra free, plastic paint can. A further piece of the metal sheet was bent and added
to the outside to make a bracket which will later hold the burner. A tube of silicone was used as the former for the tuyere.
The screws were again left long on the inside of the casing.

Another mix of refactory was then added around the former .This was then left
to dry naturally for a few days until I felt the former could be removed. Once it
was removed a 60 watt light bulb was suspended inside to speed up the drying
process. Next I dried it further by putting it inside the kitchen oven. It just fitted.
Since the furnace was made we have had a new oven and I don't think my wife
would let me do this with the new one!
You can see in the photo below I also added a ring and rods to give extra
support
to
the
bottom.
The lid was made in the same way as described to the dimensions shown in
the drawing.
The Burner
I already had a Sievert propane torch set which has an economy setting, the
main flame can be shut off and a smaller flame kept going. I made a new
necktube to fit it using a jet from one of the nozzles I had. It is not essential to
use a torch handle, a simple gas tap would do the job. I use an adjustable
regulator set at 2 Bar (28psi) and this incorporates a hose protection valve
which cuts off the gas if the hose should fail.

A hose clip determins the length of tube that goes inside the furnace.

Close up of the jet.

To hold the burner in place the bracket shown below was added, the holes are a loose fit on the burner tube. The burner
tube is not sealed into the large hole in the furnace (this is called the Tuyere) This allows air to be admitted around the
burner.

The furnace was heated up slowly several times to prevent cracks before being put into service.

The
Kasenit Furnace
If you are following my metalcasting videos you may have spotted I am using a different furnace in Part 29
This is a commercial furnace that was recently given to me. It was in a rusty condition but a clean up an a coat of
heatproof black paint smartened it up. It was originally made for town gas but the previous owner had changed the jet and
it now runs on propane.
By coincidence the internal dimensions are identical to my home made one.
I was interested to see how it's performed compared.
The main difference in the design is the vertical air inlet to the right of the burner, and the design of the burner itself which
screws into the side. There is no hole in the bottom.

Performance
Well I have to report there is no noticeable difference in performance. I have not measured the gas consumption of the
home built furnace but I have recorded it for this one.
I melted 5Kg of aluminium in two consecutive melts. The total gas used was 0.7 Kg which means I can get 18.5 melts
from a 13 Kg bottle.
The advantage of the Kasenit furnace is that the refectory will be good for melting brass and bronze if I ever need to. The
homemade one with the perlite lining is not designed for the increased temperature though ideal for aluminium melting.