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SUNDAY, 24 JUNE 2012

Basic pants pattern Part 1: Front

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Have you ever drafted a pants pattern? Before April this year I had no idea how to sew pants. I started my second year of patternmaking class at
school with pants patterns and I am keen to document the entire process (from drafting the pattern to the fitting and sewing) and share it with you.
In this post, I'll show you the drafting method we are taught at school. I find it relatively easy and fun. Just don't be scared of all the letters and lines!
To start with, you need take a bunch of measurements:
waist

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hip + 4 cm ease
hip length (measurement from waist to hip)

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crotch depth
knee length (from waist to knee)
hemline circumference (length all the way around the hem at the bottom)
desired pants length (from the waist to where you want them to come down to)
NOTES:
1. To measure the crotch depth, refer to one of the techniques pictured below:

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Basic pants pattern Part 1:
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Alternatively, use a special ruler measure the crotch depth as pictured

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2. It's essential to take the measurement around the heel and instep of your foot. If the botton seam of the pants is too tight, you won't be able to put
them on.

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Once you've taken all the necessary measurements, we can start drafting.

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But before you start I wanna warn you: this is my very first tutorial and it's not perfect. Also, I am translating it from Japanese, and some words may
sound confusing. Please forgive me in advance and if you find it difficult and confusing, don't hesitate to comment or email me.

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AB = hip length
AC = crotch depth
BB = of hip measurement
CC = AA = BB
Draw the line AC
CC = CC
CC = 1cm
AA = CC
Draw the line AC

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AD = knee length
AE = pants length
Connect A all the way to E

AA = 1cm

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Draw the line AB

CC = 0.5cm
CC = CC
Draw the curve BC
AA = waist measurement + 4cm (darts) + 0.25cm (ease) + 0.5cm (difference between front and back)
AA = 0.5

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Draw the curve AB

EE = EE = hemline width - 0.5cm (difference between front and back)

Draw the line EC
Draw the curve BC
Draw the line EC

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Draw the knee line DD

Adding darts

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AF = AF = 1cm
AF = 9cm

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FG = FA
GG = GG = 1cm
GG = 9cm

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Now draw a beautiful line connecting all points from A to A

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This is how your final pattern draft should look.

How do you find it? Too complex? Too easy? Too confusing? Please, please, please let me know! Your feedback is very welcome!
I'll explain how to draft the back in my next post. Stay tuned! :)

Posted by Inna S at 14:23

3 Comments

Labels: ESMOD Japan, pants, pattern drafting

Location: Japan, Tokyo,

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asmaa

2 hours ago

:) great tutorial , well explained , i will definitely try following it

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seahlieh

a year ago

Awesome illustrations and details. Looking forward to seeing the back portion. When will you be posted it?

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Thewallinna

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> seahlieh a year ago

This was posted already. Check the following post!

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