Forming 223 Rem Brass For The Nagant Revolver

Forming 223 Rem brass for the Nagant revolver
http://ak47building.yolasite.com/forming-making-brass-for-the-nagant...
Forming 223 Rem brass for the

Nagant revolver
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Forming 223 remington brass for the Nagant revolver

this revolver can shoot: .32 s&w short, .32 smith and wesson short, .32 H&R, 32-20 WCF, 7.62X38r, .223 trimmed brass,
.327 federal magnum but may be too dangerous, 8mm Lebel French revolver ammo.
I wrote about the 1895 Nagant revolver a couple of years ago, and about the somewhat odd cartridge designed for it. It's long, the bullet is seated
down inside the case, and when the cylinder comes into battery the mouth of the case actually fits inside the breech of the barrel; when fired, the
case mouth expands and forms a gas seal that actually does give the bullet a bit more velocity than it has with an open flash gap.
You can get 7.62 Nagant brass from Starline or you can use the Lee dies to form .32-20 brass to work; in both the case is too short to form the gas
seal. It works quite well, and the brass lasts longer since it's not being as drastically worked when you fire. If you want the full-length cases, the only
two you can buy that I know of are Fiocchi(two drawbacks, it's expensive and due to the dramatic crimp they use it tends to crack at the mouth when
fired) and the Russian target ammo some dealers carry(very accurate, generally doesn't crack but berdan primed). Which leaves the option of taking
some existing case and forming it.
At the time I got my Nagant I found a post on a gunboard on how to do this and decided to give it a try. Some success, some failure and some bugs in
the process as I tried it. Fiddled with it on and off, and here's how I've been doing it.
Needed: .223 cases, a GOOD case lube, a .30 Carbine sizing die, a short piece of brass rod about
1/4" diameter and a drill press. Also some way to cut the excess off when the time comes. Done right this gives you a case with a rim to hold it in
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10/13/2014 8:32 PM
place and long enough to give the gas seal.

My procedure
I start off by chucking a case in the drill press with about 1/2" sticking down. Start it turning at low rpm and use a file, flat side vertical, held against
the case with the bottom edge in the extractor groove.
I haven't tried to measure how much to take off; the ideal here would be a small lathe where you could repeatedly shave off an exact amount. But
until I have/have access to a lathe, drill press it is. I take a bit off, then use some fine sandpaper to smooth the cut area. Do a handful, then wipe
them off and head to the loading press.
Put in the appropriate shellholder and run the die down until it touches the holder and lock it. Lube a case(I've been using Imperial Sizing Die Wax)
and run it up into the die, just a little; when it wants to stop, stop and back it out. Wipe on more lube, run it up again till it gets tight, pull out and
relube. If you've taken enough off the case at the drill press you should be able to run the case almost all the way up in three tries, if not it'll need
four or
five. I STRONGLY suggest you rotate the case a bit each time, as if you don't you'll wind up either bending or cracking the rim, and you need it in
place
If you did it just right at the first step, inspection will show no raised area and you can do the final forming. Most of the time I didn't take off
enough(lathe would probably solve that) and the die will form a lip or rim on the case from brass being pushed down. Here's an original case, and one
at this point of the forming:
You can see the belt formed a little above the extractor groove and the sized case is longer.
So when the whole bunch is at this point, take them back to the drill press and use the file to cut off that lip, then sand smooth. At this point you can
trim the cases. You can use a jewelers saw or whatever, I usually use the sanding disc on my belt sander to cut them back to the start of the
shoulder; they need to be at least 1.5" overall after cutting, then use a deburring tool to clean up the edges. Clean the cases off and back to the
press.
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10/13/2014 8:32 PM
Here you'll need a flat piece of steel, only specs are that it be thick enough not to bend and wide enough to cover the shellholder. Take the
depriming stem out of the die- you may want to use a universal deprimer to do that and just leave the stem out of the sizer- set the steel on the
shellholder, lube the case and push it up into the die,
then run the ram up until it contacts, then lever it all the way; it'll take some pressure and the rim should be the only thing showing below the die
mouth. Back off the ram, stick the brass rod through the depriming stem hole into the case, take a light hammer and start tapping. Hit too hard and
you can crack the shellhead or break it off, so just tap and if you lubed the case well it should start coming out after a few.
Examine them at this point, look for any cracked rims or other damage that means toss it. If all's well, get out the case trimmer and trim them to 1.5"
overall. Depending on the case and how far back you cut it off, you may have to use the expander die to open the mouth up a bit so the trimmer
guide will fit in. Then deburr inside & out, clean off the lube and you have cases ready to use. Don't forget: you will need a way to bell the case
mouth a bit to let the bullet start in.
Here's a .223 case, one with all the forming done, trimmed to length and one of the Russian target cartridges on the right. Hard to see in this shot but
the Russian has a long taper crimp above the bullet(which is a wadcutter seated with the face almost .4" below the case mouth).
I loaded 25 of these reformed cases with standard small pistol primers, a charge of Unique and some 100 grain Hornady hollow-base wadcutters,
seating the bullets so the face is about 1/4" below the case mouth. Then I ran them partway into the sizing die to give the case a taper crimp and
smooth out any bulges formed when you seated the bullet. Later on, just for the hell of it, I've got some .30 caliber hollowpoints I'm going to try out
in these.
That first 25 I tried out at about ten yards, and all fired with no problems, no split case mouths and good accuracy(good for me with those sights;
results may vary). Some empties fell right out, some were pretty sticky; I think a combination of not smooth enough where they'd been filed down
and maybe a bit too thick there. The Russian brass looks like it's pretty thin-walled, the .223 much thicker so I think it didn't contract back as much
after firing. I'm going to thin the cases that stuck just a bit at/above the web and polish them and see how that works out.
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10/13/2014 8:32 PM
Notes
When my old pc crapped out, I lost the information I'd originally saved on this procedure including an e-mail I got from the guy who posted it. If you
happen to see this, thanks for helping me work this out.
Most dies will not have a seating stem long enough to push the bullet this deep. You'll have to make a longer stem; I took another die(I used a .30-30)
and used a long piece of threaded rod for a stem to seat it. Doing this, you have to make damn sure the bullet is started straight for it to continue
straight in. Update: since I wrote this, I tried something: I took unscrewed the top from the seating die and put in a spacer, about .4" long above the
seating stem. That allows the Lee die to set the bullet down below the case mouth in full-length cases.
I found that commercial cases were a lot easier to work than military; the mil cases have thicker walls.
I tried annealing some cases to see if that would help in forming them; it didn't.
I had several cases crack at the mouth the second time I expanded them for loading, so I got out the torch and annealed the case mouth area on all.
I've got a dozen more ready to trim to length, after that I'll anneal them before expanding the first time. There's a lot of forming done and it's
work-hardening the brass; hopefully annealing them at this stage will help them last longer.
http://elmtreeforge.blogspot.com/2006/10/forming-brass-for-nagant-revolver.html
#1
09-27-2009, 11:31 AM
Big Dog
Firearm Zealot
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 14,743
7.62X38R Nagant Revolver loading

Finally got to shoot my first testloads for my nagant revolver. I'm using Starline .32-20 brass, resized in the Lee
Nagant die set. It uses the .32-20 flaring and bullet seater dies, with a special sizer die. It had been sold out at
Midway for a long time, but they finally got them in stock!
So, I made up a fifty round box each of two basic loads using the Starline brass and Magtech 98 grain LRN bullets.
CCI Small Pistol primers are used.
1) First, I used a load similar to what my reloading buddy had been loading for us. He uses the .45 chamber on his
Lee Auto Disk powder measure, giving around 3.2 grains of Red Dot powder. I used the .5cc Lee Dipper, which
scales out at around 3.5 grains of Red Dot.
Velocities of seven test rounds through the chrony were between 708 FPS and 864 FPS! Sheesh, I had hoped for
better than a 157 FPS deviation!
Report, recoil and overall feel were good.
2) Second batch used the same case and bullet, but 2.4 grains of Bullseye. First round went "pffft...." uh-oh! I
checked the bore, and it was clear. The chrony showed 490 FPS! Danggit. All seven shots varied between 490 FPS
and 535 FPS. This load is definitely on the wimpy side! Consistency was much better, as I used the Lee Perfect
Powder Measure. I checked the weight of the charge every few cases.
Didn't have the opportunity to check accuracy, as I was on the rifle range and using the chrony while also clocking
some new rifle loads.
I definitely have to beef up the Bullseye loads!
Big Dog
Firearm Zealot
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 14,743
This weekend, I put the Nagant loads on paper.

The Red Dot load still barked nicely, but shot a larger-than-hoped group of about
3.5 inches at 15 yards, centered around the bull. I remember it shooting to one
side and low using my buddy's loads - he did go a bit lighter on the powder
though - about 3.2 grains (he listed the .45cc chamber of his Lee Auto Disk
Powder Measure) to my 3.5 grains (.5cc Lee Dipper).
The Bullseye Wimpy Loads actually shot very well! Best group was slightly high,
two in the red bull and one on the edge! About 1.75 inches total. Very not bad! I
will bump the load up a bit and work it up - it looks like this pistol may like
Bullseye! I want to try Unique as well, though it hasn't done well for me at all in
more modern guns.
I have 400 of these bullets left, another 100 of my buddy's cast bullets, and a
couple hundred 100-grain HP-XTP bullets - plenty of bullets to keep this little gun
fed.
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M1895 Nagant Revolver Reloading Project

by George N. Fisher
Project and page started Oct 10th, 2002
This site designed for 800x600 res.
Last Update, November 9th, 2002
Clickable Pictures and Links are Blue and underlined. Newest Updated info highlighted in Yellow, changed info
Highlighted in Green.
A few weeks ago I finally broke down and bought myself a M1895 Nagant Revolver to fill a gap in my collection of Former
Soviet Military Pistols.
At first I wasn't impressed with the piece, the trigger was heavy, the sights barely visable, and Factory Ammo all but
unavailable. What ammo is available runs $35 - $50 USD per box of 50. After looking over the revolver however, I grew
more and more impressed with the design and unique Gas Seal Action. While not my first choice as a combat sidearm, it
does show great promise as a target, small game and general plinking piece. More information on this revolver can be
found here : The Nagant Page.
The original caiber is the 7.62x38R Nagant Gas Seal Cartridge. I got a replacement cylinder chambered in .32 ACP from
Makarov.com, with the intent of using the .32 ACP ammo for plinking and target shooting, and saving the original cylinder
for the day when I found a good deal on original ammo. Some searching on the Web, and some helpful folks over at the
Gun Boards Nagant forum, turned up some interesting information. Usable cases can be made from 32-20 brass. There
was some mention of having to thin the rims of the cases for some revolvers, but I didn't find this to be the case for me. I
ordered a set of Lee Steel Dies and some StarLine 32-20 brass and got to work.
First step is to full length resize the 32-20 brass in the 7.62 Nagant sizing die. Apply a bit of lube and this is an easy
process. This removes the shoulder from the 32-20 brass, and gives it a long tapered case that is a perfect fit in the
original cylinder. The Lee 7.62 Nagant Dies did not seat the bullet below the case mouth as this round requuires, and a
note included with the dies even states this, and suggests the use of a 1/4-20 machine bolt as a replacement bullet
seating punch. My first loads were all seated with this arrangement, but I was not happy with the slight marks left on the
bullet nose from the bolt, and so I turned the first 3/8" of the Lee bullet seating punch down to .308" to allow it to seat
the bullets as it should. This worked much better, and seated the bullets much straighter, giving better accuracy.
Modified Seating Punch picture.
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During this time, I found some older reloading data for several .32 caliber rounds from a project from several years back.
Included in this data are Heavy bullets loads with weights as high as 150 grs in the .32 S&W Long cartridge. I decided to
look at some new data for the .32 ACP cylinder, using standard .32 ACP brass, but with loads designed for and able to
chamber only in the longer .32 ACP cylinder for the Nagant. I called the new loads "32 Nagant" to keep the load data
seperate from standard loads in .32 ACP for use in Semi-automatic pistols such as the CZ-50/70. One thing I did notice
during firing with the 32 ACP Cylinder installed was that it must be kept clean, or the revelver would tend to bind after
about 50 rds or so. A cleaner buring powder may help resolve this.
Included in this new series are Sabot loads with 46 and 55 gr bullets, Wad Cutter loads, Semi-Wad Cutter Loads, Jacketed
Hollow Point Loads with heavy bullet weights, and heavy weight cast bullet loads. Please remember that these are
experimental loads only, and for referance and informational purposes only. Use this or any other load data at your own
risk.
General Shooting Notes

As I stated in the beginning, the sights on this revolver are hard to see, that was the main reason for limiting the shooting
to 15 yds. I used a fairly standard Pistol target for all accuracy testing.
The .32 ACP Cylinder worked very well, but tended to get dirty within 50 rds or so. A cleaning or chamber brush makes
life much easier, and allows extended shooting time. As the cylinder got dirty, chambering rounds got to be a chore, and
the action got stiffer and harder to operate. A few passes with a brush solved this.
All the loads tested at first would either drop free from the chamber either under their own power, or with a slight tap of
the ejection rod. The FN Factory ammo was the only ammo that required a firm push to eject the brass.
The Double action pull of the test revolver was off the scale, but I would guess it to be somewhere in the 20 lb range. All
testing was done single action.
The windage was right on for almost all loads, with the worst (FN Factory ammo) being 1.5 inches left of center. Most
loads tended to shoot 2-5 inches high when a center hold was used, but with a 6 O'Clock hold, most loads seemed to be
fairly close to center.
I also noticed the original wood grips tended to rub the hands after about 100 rds were fired, but the pistol did not move
around in the hand, and recoil was very mild.
Notes On what I would do to build a Custom Target / field Revolver based on the M1895 Nagant.
If a person wanted to build a unique target or Field/hiking Revolver using the M1895 as a base, I would be sure to start
with a revolver that has no or almost no collector value. Check here for more info. The Nagant Page.
Personally, the following is a list of the changes and improvements I would (and am planning to or have already) do:
1. Change out the grips for a set of custom smooth or finely checkered Walnut. Another option would be some of the
original Bakelite grips, if a spare set could be found. The rough checkered, light colored wood grips that came on this
pistol leave alot of room for improvement, reguardless.
2. Smooth the action and inner workings of the Revolver. A good general cleaning and hand polishing of all contact
surfaces should reduce the DA trigger somewhat.
3. Sights - Have to do more research, but it seems a good revolver target type sight could be adapted to the M1895
Nagant.
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4. If you don't handload, than the .32 ACP Cylinder is almost a must have. A fairly wide selection of .32 ACP ammo can be
found. Even so, I would carry a spare .32 ACP Cylinder for Field use, simply to allow the use of Factory ammo. (Hollow
points for small game hunting, etc.) If spare parts can be found, the cylinder can be fitted with a Spring and Cylinder
plunger, to make switching cylinders a simple process.
5. Holster for Field / Hiking use. Don't see many holsters that work with the Nagant, but Makarov.com has a nice Nylon
hip holster that includes loops along the front to hold extra rounds. The Holster includes a adjustable thumbsnap to
secure the the revolver in the holster. The original Military Holster is also good, if you follow the proper care for leather.
Some people (myself included) find the flap type holsters uncomfortable and hard to use however.
6. Belt Pouch for Field / Hiking use. A good belt pouch to hold extra ammo, a cleaning brush or maybe one of the
Boresnake type cleaning pull-thru's, and the spare cylinder if needed. There are many military surplus type pouches
available that would serve this purpose well, most available for under $10.00. I use a Surplus East German belt pouch.
Reloading Data
Warning - This data is provided for informational purposes only. You are responsible for the safety of your
ammo, and how it is used. The Author, nor anyone else, is not responsible for the use or misuse of this data
or any other information found on this website.
7.62x38R Nagant loads using converted Starline 32-20 Brass

All loads used Winchester Small Pistol Primers
All loads were given taper crimp with Lee Die, with bullet seated below case mouth.
Bullet Type
Bullet Weight
(grains)
Powder
Type
Charge
(grains)
Velocity
(fps)
COL
Notes and Comments
Group Size (7 rds @ 15

yds)
Moly Coated
SWC
100
AA #5
3.8
667.8
1.324
Good starting load, very mild recoil
2.775, 6 rds in 1.644
Plated DEWC
83
AA #5
3.8
660.2
1.285
Very Mild Load
2.216
Plated HBWC
83
AA #5
3.8
648.9
1.285
Very Mild
1.385
Plated WCHP
83
AA #5
3.8
651.0
1.285
slighty worse spread than when loaded

as HBWC
2.116
Moly Coated
SWC
100
Red Dot
NYT
NYT
Plated DEWC
83
Red Dot
Plated HBWC
83
Red Dot
NYT
Plated WCHP
83
Red Dot
NYT
.32 Nagant loads using standard .32 ACP brass (for use in the .32 ACP cylinder in the 1895 Nagant revolver Only)
All loads used CCI Small Pistol Primers
. 7 19
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All loads were given taper crimp with Lee Die
Bullet Type
Bullet Weight
(grains)
Powder
Type
Charge
(grains)
Velocity
COL
(fps)
22 Caliber JHP
w/ Sabot
46
AA #5
2.5
820.1
.996
at 15 yds the Sabot had not seperated from the bullet.

Very snappy load, recoil about like a 22 RFM from a
Pistol.
1.895
22 Caliber JHP
w/ Sabot
55
AA #5
2.5
725.5
1.200

No signs of yawing or unstable bullets.
2.306
Plated HBWC
83
AA #5
2.2
803.0
.941
Plated DEWC
83
NYT
.941
Hornady
XTP-HP
85
AA #2
2.2
762.9
.980
Plated WCHP
83
AA #5
2.2
798.5
.941
HBWC loaded backwards as Hollow point
1.755
Moly Coated
SWC
100
AA #5
2.2
592.5
.968
Recoil slightly heavier than other loads, still very light
2.164
.975
MAX LOAD
Cast LRN
93
AA #5
2.2
NYT
Cast RNFP-GC
120
HP-38
2.5
710
.32 ACP loads using standard .32 ACP brass
Group Size (7
rds @ 15 yds)
Notes and Comments
Very nice load, most accurate to date with the 32

Cylinder
1.459
1.963
(Loads also suitable for Standard .32 ACP pistols in good condition)
All loads used CCI Small Pistol Primers

All loads were given taper crimp with Lee Taper Crimp Die
Bullet Type
Bullet Weight
(grains)
Powder
Type
Charge
(grains)
Velocity
(fps)
Notes and Comments
Bullseye
2.1
902.2
Standard target load I use for my CZ-50 Pistol
Group Size (7 rds @

15 yds)
FMJ
71
Hornady
XTP-HP
1.775
85
Hornady
XTP-HP
60
Bullseye
2.6
835.5
Good load for CZ-50 pistol, comparable to most factory HP Not recorded (target
loads of same caliber.
misplaced)
22 Caliber JHP
w/ Sabot
46
AA #5
2.5
820.1

1.895
Very snappy load, recoil about like a 22 RFM from a Pistol.
NYT
7.62x38R Nagant Snake Shot load using converted Starline 32-20 Brass
This load was a spin off of an older reloading project for the .32 H&R Magnum round. To start, brass is prepared as
normal, and than again resized in a .30 Carbine sizer die to give it a straighter forward portion. The case is primed, and
powder charge dumped, measured, however you do it. A .30 caliber gascheck is seated just off the powder charge, and
the case filled to within 1/16" of the case mouth with the smallest size shot you can find. I use number 8 shot, pulled
from some old 16 gauge shotgun loads I had no use for. Each shotgun shell gives enough shot for 10+ snake shot loads.
Another .30 caliber gascheck is seated on top of the shot, cup side down, and a light roll crimp added. I also found that
the top gas check is much easier to seat if it is first run thru a .308 bullet sizing die. The bottom gas check should not be
sized, as it needs to be slightly oversize to align itself in the case during seating. I used a 1/2 long 1/4-20 bolt as a
seating punch for the bottom gas check, in the Lee die. The bolt is inserted from the top, and the adjustment screwed all
the way down. The modified Lee seating punch was used to seat the top gas check. Works good for Snakes or other pests
at up to 7-8 feet (maybe further, but at 10 feet, I leave them alone and remove myself from the area.)
. 8 19
10/13/2014 8:32 PM
Powder
Charge
(grains)
Shot
Size
AA #5
2.5
#8
56.3 (includes 2
30 caliber gas
checks)
CCI Small 32 pellets in a 7 inch circle, 6 pellets in the 1.5 inch center aiming point, 55 pellets
total on a 8.5x11 sheet of paper. Both GC's hit within 1 inch of each other, just left of
Pistol point of aim. Both GC's hit flat and cut a WC type hole in the paper.
Bullseye
3.0
#8
56.3 (includes 2
30 caliber gas
checks)
CCI Small 28 pellets in a 7 inch circle, 7 pellets in the 1.5 inch center aiming point, 61 pellets
total on 8.5x11 sheet of paper. One GC hit almost dead center point of aim, other
Pistol was 3 in high and right from center and entered sideways.
Powder
Type
Shot weight
(grains)
Primer
Firing results @ 7 feet
.32 ACP Factory Ammo, Tested in .32 ACP Conversion Cylinder
Brand
Bullet
Weight
Bullet
Type
Winchester
60 grain
Silver Tip
JHP
Average Group
Velocity
of 7 rds (15 yds,
(fps)
from a rest)
899.0
Notes and Comments
2.228, 5 shots in
1.900
This ammo uses a FMJ-FP bullet design that refuses to feed in many Semi- Autos. I bought a case
FN / Military
Surplus
75 grain
FMJ-FP
860.3
Magtech
71 grain
FMJ-RN
NYT
HiTech Ammo
42 grain
TC Copper
Hollow
Point
1306
RWS - German
Plastic Training
Ammo
21 grain
Plastic
Round Nose
NYT
American Eagle
(Federal )
71 grain
FMJ-RN
NYT
1.316
planning to use the brass for reloading, however, despite the sellers claims, this ammo is Bredan
Primed, and VERY dirty. However it was accurate in the .32 ACP Cylinder, and is a good general
Plinking / target load. It comes packed 25 rds to a Egg crate type plastic box, 1050 rds per case.
3.650
List of Abbreviations used on this page.

List of Sources for parts and reloading items used.
http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?92272-Nagant-in-7.62x25
1. 02-19-2009 05:22 PM #16
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10/13/2014 8:32 PM
chester
Senior Member
Join Date
Jan 1970
Posts
1,126
If you are talking about the H & R .32 Magnum then the factory stuff are not hot rounds owing to H & R's and other break action
revolvers on the market.
I have a Ruger Single Action in that Cal. and they have to be souped up and they still wont blow wind up the A$$ of the old .32-20
factory round.
My brother in law has been shooting the new .327 out of his Nagant since it came on the market down here with no problems.
Reply With Quote
2. 02-19-2009 08:13 PM #17
Uncle Jaque
Silver Bullet member
Join Date
Jan 1970
Location
Monmouth, Kennebec County, Maine
Posts
863
Well Put!
Originally Posted by chester.
...I have a Ruger Single Action in that Cal. and they have to be souped up and they still wont blow wind up the A$$ of the old
.32-20 factory round.
I like your style!; Don't think ol' Elmer Keith could've put it any better! {8^{D~
Do tell?! That's very interesting.
Do you happen to have any idea what kind of ballistics that cartridge puts out - bullet weight, velocity, ME and that sort of thing?
I don't have a Nagant myself but a buddy just bought one. They are kind of an interesting old rig and the price isn't at all bad at
the moment. If I can get ahold of & easily reload for that .327 I might be tempted to lay one in on my C&R. Already have .312"
bullets as well as a mold for same for my 7.62 X 25 Tokarev, which is what I understand most ".32s" take.
opic: Reloading for 7.62 x 38 Nagant Revolver using Starline 32-20 Brass (Read 866 times)
http://russian-mosin-nagant.com/forumarc/index.php?topic=12177.0
Reloading for 7.62 x 38 Nagant Revolver using Starline 32-20 Brass

on: July 28, 2008, 02:11:24 PM
Hello,
I'm new to the forum and recently purchased my first Nagant revolver (a 1931 with a pristine bore). I reload and first thing I noticed is there is very
limited, dated, ad hoc information on reloads for this gun. So until I can find actual factory ammo (surplus and new reasonably priced) for reload
benchmarking, I've decided to reload with starline 32-20 brass. First, a little background, and then a recipe that works for my gun.
In my online reloading research for converted 32-20 brass, I've read that bullet diameter runs anywhere from .306 to .312, bullet weight from 83 to
100 grains, coupled with wide variety of pistol and rifle powders with velocities running from about 670 fps to (yikes!) 1100 fps. I've also noted varied
bullet seating depth (COL) ranging from 1.285" to 1.510" as measured from base of case to bullet tip. I'm aware of a 32 ACP conversion cylinder
which sounds reasonable and safe, but I chose not to go that route. I have also read about folks shooting 32 SW Long, and even 32 H & R Magnum in
the original cylinder which sounds a little dangerous to me, but I'm just a conservative kind of guy. Just for the record, I don't recommend shooting
non-standard ammunition in any gun. I've heard of folks shooting these rounds for years in the gun with no problems. Some folks are OK with a few
split cases 32 H & R Magnum is just slightly more pressure than factory loads but these cylinder walls are pretty thinandI like my hands, I've
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10/13/2014 8:32 PM
gotten quite used to them, both of them, over the years

Here is what I'm currently shooting in my revolver, it works well, is fun, and easy to reload. All the legal disclaimers apply, this is what works for me
in my gun with the listed components, so use at your own risk! These are the range of loads I've tested on my gun so I'm listing 3.8 grains Unique as
MAX charge. I'll post further revisions as I test new loads and get more data. I use a Lee turret press, Lee perfect powder measure, and the Lee 3 die
set for 7.62 Nagant Pistol. I also use a Lee 32-20 factory crimp die. The recipe is Hornady .308 bullet XTP 90 grain, 3.5 to 3.8 grains Unique powder,
CCI Small Pistol Primer, and COL 1.500".
1) Resize Starline 32-20 WCF brass, remember to use bullet lube (you don't need a lot, contrary to what I've read). This will remove the shoulder
from the brass and give it a slight taper from rim towards the neck.
2) Prime.
3) Flare the case mouth ever so slightly. The relatively small diameter bullet I use needs little to no flaring in this case. I set my powder through
expander die as per the instructions and then back it way out so that only about .1 of and inch of the case is expanded. This will allow you to easily
set the bullet for seating and still provide proper seating resistance and stability for crimping.
4) Charge the case with 3.5 to 3.8 grains of Unique powder.
5) Seat the bullet to 1.500". I set my bullet seating die as per instructions and then turn it in about 2 more turns so I have some adjustment room
with the bullet seating knob (which will be screwed almost all the way in) on the die. If you set the die too far in the press, it will buckle the case
mouth. You'll need to experiment a little with your dies. I set it enough to buckle a case with bullet seated and then backed it out 1/2 turn.
Because of this, I leave my dies set in their own turret. I chose to seat the bullet at 1.500"--far enough out for reliable function and to minimize the
jump to the rifling. My though was this would provide better accuracy over bullets seated below the case mouth.
6) Use the 32-20 factory crimp die and apply a hard crimp (don't overdo it...just about as much as the die is designed to apply). This will remove the
taper from about .5" down from the case mouth. The beauty of this is that it gives a straight wall for the entire bullet length inside the case
resulting in a good crimp.
This round looks close to a normal 32-20 round. I have functionally tested these loads and they work fine in my Nagant revolver. I will collect
definitive velocity data at some point in the future (currently don't have working chronograph), but I suspect these run in the 700-800 fps range.
Pressure is high enough to form the cases to the chamber but low enough that empties just fall out of the revolver. I have not noticed primers
backing out or flowing. Also, I have not evaluated grouping yet, but will do that soon. This works for both new 32-20 brass and previously fired 32-20
brass. I'm on my 3rd reload in some of these cases with no issues so far.
Last Edit: August 04, 2008, 07:33:49 AM by buckhammer
http://shootersforum.com/showthread.htm?t=1327
09-23-2003, 04:29 PM
ribbonstone
Moderator
#5
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Jefferson Parish (via N.O.)
Posts: 8,929
Been playing with the nagant for a few years...and will state that it really makes a difference to use the right length brass. The cylinder is bored at
the mouth to take a bullet AND the brass case wrapped around it...this makes the chamber mouth about .338". A 32-20 case is not quite long
enough to fill this mouth so when fired the bullet has two choices: (1) if pressure is high enough, will bump up to .338" and then slam into a
.310-313" barrel or (2) pressur eis too low to upset the bullet to cahmber mouth diameter, so gas leask past the .311" bullet in the .338" throat.
The gas seal actually relies on the long case to fit into the recess cut into the forcing cone...without it, the gas DOES bleed a bit between cylinder
and forcing cone.
Worked out a way (with a LATHE) to make usealbe full length nagant cases form .223 brass. will out line it for those interrested:
1. Size .223 case in .30carbine sizer...just until the soild part of the .223 is encountered. Will look like mini-belted magnum brass. Can't size the
solid web of a .223 case.
2. LAthe off the belt. this will make the case into a rimmed case as you DO NOT lather the RIm (OK...the .223 is rimless...but once we take the
body down, we leave a rim).
3. Cut case to nagant length.
With this brass, get the lvel. that the Nagant was noted for AND good accuracy. Consider: the case feeds the bullet directly into the rifling, the
case lockes the barrel and cylinder together for great alignment, and the bullet gets full use of the powder charge (no gap..no blow by...do
slamming a .338" bullet into a .311" bore).
Was (and am) amazed at how well the old clunker will shoot with the above brass and HBWC's (light charges). FORGET DA shooting...no way with
that system to get anything near a reasonable DA trigger pull.
http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=69231
I've had my best results using real 7.62 Nagant cases as opposed to using .32-20 cases. The rims on .32-20's are too thick to allow them to work in any
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10/13/2014 8:32 PM
of my Nagants and I am unwilling to file on my guns to make a non-standard case work.

The Fiocchi cases as they come from the factory are brittle. I typically lose about 10% due to case neck splits after firing unless I anneal the whole
batch prior to reloading. Annealing is time-consuming and a pain in the patootie.
It also doesn't make financial sense to buy the Fiocchi cases. They cost $42 per hundred from Grafs. You can buy loaded HotShot ammo from Century
Arms at the regular price of $21.87 per box of 50 so the price is only 87 cents more for a box of loaded ammo compared to the unloaded Fiocchi
brass. The price of 50 bullets, primers, and powder charges is way more than 87 cents, not to mention the labor savings. Century puts the HotShot
ammo on sale occasionally (as they did in December) for $17.87 a box so if you lay low for the deal then it's a no-brainer.
The HotShot brass is made by Prvi Partisan and is a bit softer than the Fiocchi stuff so it doesn't split upon firing like the un-annealed Fiocchi cases
do. I have some Prvi brass that has been fired and reloaded four times now with no case splits. Like I said, many of my reloads with the Fiocchi cases
had split case necks on the first firing.
The choice is yours of course, but unless and until the price of the Fiocchi brass gets more in line with what you might pay for more common cases
like .38 Special or .45 ACP then I just can't see any reason to buy it.
As to your last question, going to 7.62 Nagant cases probably won't make any practical difference in results at the range. However, your reloads won't
work in every Nagant revolver due to the rim thickness issue. There is also the issue of beating up the forcing cone when using .32-20, .32 H&R Mag,
or .32 S&W Long cases. The forcing cone on Nagant revolvers is designed to accommodate the .308-.312 inch bullet PLUS another approximately .020"
to allow for the thickness of the brass at the neck area. When using .32-20 or other short cases the case never enters the forcing cone and so the
bullet strikes an effectively oversized forcing cone. The Nagant forcing cones were not intended to withstand impact... they were meant to guide the
bullet into the barrel by using the 7.62 Nagant case neck as a funnel. The Nagant revolver is tough and withstands this abuse well, but I believe the
continued use of cases that are shorter than the Nagant cylinder will eventually lead to forcing cone damage.
-Bob
==============================================================================================================================
http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/27699
OldIronMan
#10
[-]
Posts: 1216
45,000 PSI is more than any factory load for 7.62x25. Don't try it.
Starline no longer makes Nagant brass, and they've twice told me they have no plans to.
(06/17/08 12:23 PM)
But Starline makes .32-20 brass that can be reformed to a shorter (no sealing of the cylinder gap) version of the
Nagant case using special Lee dies sold by Midway. (Seat the bullets to an overall length of 1.5", protruding a
little from the case mouth.) Or you can use a .30 Carbine sizing die and .32-20 seater, perhaps the whole .30
Carbine set will work if you use the #6 shell holder. Mine shoot very well with the shorter homemade brass, they
just lose a little velocity. I need to get some of that Hot Shot ammo, it's Boxer primed.
Veteran member
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controversial .327 federal magnum shooting through the nagant revolver notes
http://www.gunandgame.com/forums/powder-keg/93052-327-magnum.html
01-11-2010, 11:51 AM
#14
Big Dog
Firearm Zealot
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10/13/2014 8:32 PM
One big danger in the .327 Magnum, and it has ALREADY been done, is someone stuffing them into the Nagant
revolver, as some are doing with the .32H&R Magnum. The one guy I have read doing this got off easy - the gun
survived the extreme abuse! Next guy may not be so lucky.
Join Date: Mar 2002

Posts: 14,756
http://www.shootingtimes.com/ammunition/ST_reloadingthe327_200902/index1.html
Our collaboration on the .327 Fed. Mag. loading projects seemed to be in order.
.327 Fed. Mag. In 3 1/16-Inch Barreled Ruger SP101

Powder
Bullet
Type
Hornday
60-gr.
AA #5
XTP-HP
Speer
60-gr. GoldUnique
Dot
Speer
60-gr. GoldWAP
Dot
Magtech
W540
71-gr. JHP
Federal
85-gr.
W540
Hydra-Shok
Federal
85-gr.
W540
Hydra-Shok
ExtremeStandard 25-Yard
Velocity
Grs.Primer
Spread DeviationAccuracyComment
(fps)
(fps)
(fps)
(in.)
10.5
CCI
500
1566
20
2.80
10.0
CCI
500
1646
150
56
1.10
Easy
eject.
10.8
CCI
500
1861
131
41
1.20
Hard
eject, flat
primers.
9.7
CCI
500
1406
158
41
1.50
9.0
Fed.
205
1383
36
N/D
9.1
Fed.
100
1326
68
22
1.70
Speer
W540
85-gr. JHP
9.1
Fed.
100
1320
62
22
0.90
Sierra
AA #7
90-gr. JHC
Sierra
SR4756
90-gr. JHC
Fed.
205
Fed.
9.2
205
1325
70
21
1.80
1416
53
17
N/D
1429
71
22
3.00
10.2
Sierra
CCI
VV 3N37 8.8
90-gr. JHC
500
Hornady
100-gr.
XTP-HP
Hornady
100-gr.
XTP-HP
8.4
CCI
500
1268
40
16
1.70
Lil'Gun
14.0
Fed.
205
1101
157
68
N/D
Snug
eject; flat
primers.
Rest
loose.
Snug
eject; flat
primers;
too hot.
Rest
loose.
Snug
eject; flat
primers;
too hot.
Hard
eject; flat
primers;
too hot.
Hornady
100-gr.
XTP-HP
VV N350 8.9
CCI
500
1479
109
31
1.00
Speer
100-gr.
JHP
VV N350 8.9
Fed.
205
1405
26
2.10
HS 7
9.5
CCI
500
1297
64
22
1.40
Lil'Gun
14.0
CCI
500
1167
68
26
1.20
W540
7.6
Fed.
205
1093
28
15
3.40
AA #9
12.8WSP
1368
58
20
0.90
SR4756
5.8
Fed.
205
1117
18
N/D
Rest
loose.
700-X
4.1
Fed.
205
1167
36
17
1.60
Once-fired
brass.
HP 38
4.5
Fed.
205
1168
36
13
2.10
Once-fired
brass.
HP 38
5.2
Fed.
205
1142
21
N/D
Rest
loose.
Speer
100-gr.
Uni-Cor
Speer
100-gr.
Uni-Cor
Speer
100-gr.
Uni-Cor
Speer
115-gr.
Gold Dot
Speer
115-gr.
Gold Dot
Magnus
116-gr.
RN-FP
Magnus
116-gr.
RN-FP
Magnus
116-gr.
RN-FP
. 13 19
HS 6
Rest
loose.
10/13/2014 8:32 PM
Magnus
Fed.
Rest
116-gr.
SR4756 5.8
1171
32
9
N/D
205
loose.
RN-FP
Magnus
Fed.
Once-fired
116-gr.
Titegroup4.1
1188
33
9
1.90
205
brass.
RN-FP
Magnus
Fed.
Once-fired
116-gr.
Trail Boss4.0
833
137
39
1.80
205
brass.
RN-FP
Magnus
Fed.
Once-fired
116-gr.
W231
4.5
1175
81
21
2.30
205
brass.
RN-FP
Federal PD
Rest
85-gr.
Factory Load
1414
61
21
N/D
loose.
Hydra-Shok
American
Eagle
Rest
Factory Load
1499
55
18
N/D
100-gr.
loose.
Uni-Cor
Speer PP
Rest
115-gr.
Factory Load
1361
60
19
N/D
loose.
Gold Dot
Notes: All data are based on at least 10 rounds of each load. Accuracy is for
one 10-shot group with the SP101 fired from a Caldwell HAMMR machine rest.
No data (N/D) when rest was not adjusted properly. Factory ammo used
Federal factory primed brass with Federal 205 primers.
http://www.ransomrest.com/RansomRest.html
this link above has a bench rest to put the gun in that holds the gun in place and I can test .327 federal magnum through the nagant revolver
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=913787
note: this is the weakest ammo I have seen that is needed for experimentation to see if a kaboom will happen with the nagant revolver and .327
federal magnum put in it.
Federal Premium Personal Defense

Reduced Recoil Ammunition 327
Federal Magnum 85 Grain
Hydra-Shok Jacketed Hollow Point
Box of 20
Product #: 913787 Manufacturer #: PD327HS1 H
price $19.99
link :
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct
/default.aspx?productNumber=913787
Technical Informa on
Muzzle Velocity: 1400 fps
Muzzle Energy: 370 . lbs.
============================================================================================================================
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10/13/2014 8:32 PM
Note: this is the ammo that I is okay to shoot in the nagant revolver and
is confirmed by many on the gun board if its .32 h&r it can be shot out of
the nagant revolver.
Federal Premium Personal Defense

Ammunition 32 H&R Magnum 85
Grain Jacketed Hollow Point Box of
20
Product #: 117808
Manufacturer #: C32HRB
price $16.99
Technical Information
Muzzle Velocity: 1100 fps
Muzzle Energy: 228 ft. lbs.
============================================================================================================================
Can a .327 federal magnum revolver shoot .32 acp?
A) Rim diameter is 9.1 on .32 acp//// the .327 federal magnum diameter is 9.5
So. The .32 acp rim is .4mm smaller than .32 S&W long, .327 federal magnum, .32 H&R, .32 s&w.
B) Truth is though, the nagant revolver can fire cartridges than any of the other revolvers,the .327 revolver cant fire modified .223 brass, .32-20
WCF, 7.62x38r.
C) We know the nagant revolver cartridge is wider than .327 so that is why the nagant revolver cant shoot .32 acp with new cylinder. The new
cylinder is slightly smaller but a thicker cylinder.
Can the nagant revolver handle 7.62X25 tokarev?
A) Answer: Yes, some manufacturers in the 90s made a cylinder that was 7.62X25 tokarev and but they stopped making them and I dont know if
the walls of the cylinder were to thin. But supposedly from the forums this modification did exist and its interesting that for supposedly thin walls on
the cylinder the gun didnt kaboom with the 7.62X25 round even though it is slightly less or equal in energy to the .327 federal magnum round.
If the nagant can handle the 7.62X25 tokarev from what was experimentation,then what is the similar load data recipe that is very similar to
the .327 federal magnum?
Answer: look at the results of the research below
Link to .327 factory load listed below: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=913787
(Factory ammo) Federal PD 85-gr.///// Hydra-Shok Factory Load//// 1414 FPS//// Muzzle Energy: 370 ft. lbs.
(Reciper similar to factory ammo)Federal 85-gr. Hydra-Shok//// W540 9.0 grains////
primer Fed. 205////FPS 1383
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Link to 7.62X25 tokarev reload data: http://makarov.com/tokloaddata.html
85 Grain Jacketed Hollow Point Bullet 86 Grain Jacketed So% Point rndnose
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10/13/2014 8:32 PM
Powder Type Star ng Charge (grains) Velocity (fps) Max Charge (grains) Velocity (fps) Source
(Recipe 1)AA#5 /////////////5.8////////////////// 1185//////////// 6.8 ////////////////1235 /////////Lee
(Recipe 2)Bullseye////////// 3.3////////////////// 1200 ///////////5.0///////////////// 1390////// Internet
============================================================================================================================
what was the energy in muzzle of each reloading recipe after completion?
7.62x25 tokarev energy from seller belliot at 85 grain bullet at 1283 fps gives 310 foot/lbs which is similar to the loads from the recipes from
above for the tokarev
For .327 federal magnum
(Factory ammo) Federal PD 85-gr.///// Hydra-Shok Factory Load//// 1414 FPS//// Muzzle Energy: 370 ft. lbs.
Conclusion: .327 federal magnum 85 grain bullet recipes are normally more energy statistically ~456 ft/lbs out of the barrel than
7.62X25 tokarev statistically (~406 ft/lbs). But the experiments with the nagant revolver were with thinner walls than the factory cylinder and
supposedly the nagant revolver did not kaboom. My conclusion is experimentation should begin to see if the nagant can handle the weakest .327
factory ammo which I have found to be (Federal Premium Personal Defense Reduced Recoil Ammunition 327 Federal Magnum 85 Grain Hydra-Shok Jacketed Hollow Point Box of
20) which
has a muzzle energy 370 ft/lbs. Product #: 913787Manufacturer #: PD327HS1 H
Reference tools used for conclusion research

http://www.chapelsteel.com/joules-ft-lbs.html
http://www.sellier-bellot.cz/pistol-and-revolver-detail.php?ammunition=9&product=62
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/7.62x25mm_Tokarev
===========================================================================================================================
From the nagant man videos in this folder I have come to some conclusions when shooting the
nagant revolver
The shoulder on32-20 wcf brass is not relevant.
I can pour bullets into plywood that has a .308 diameter to .312 but I want smaller bullets so they seat below the brass as wadcutters
.5 cc lee scoop will more or less max out the nagant pressure for the bullet brass.
The 32-20 wcf brass may be to thick for nagant revolver but some people say the brass works without the modification to the gun.
Doesnt matter how far I seat the bullet down or up but I must make sure the bullets overall length does not exceed roughly 38mm
To flare the mouth of brass I can probably use a pin punch and a hammer very lightly if I ever needed to
Use the .32 auto bullets to create hole in a cube of metal that is the correct diameter, on the opposite end make a hole that is the correct diameter
as the smallest pin punch in my set so I can tap out the bullet. The metal cube could be a long rectangle that isnt too tall so like a piece of steel
plate that I find? Make sure you test the weight of the bullet with a digital scaleto make sure it doesnt exceed 100 grains
. 16 19
10/13/2014 8:32 PM
An unsettling experience with a Russian Nagant revolver
http://www.steyrclub.com/vb/threads/6229-An-unsettling-experience-with-a-Russian-Nagant-revolver
Went shooting at the range Saturday with one of my "Sharpshooters 'R' Us" buddies, a retired U.S. Air Force veteran, who brought his Russian Nagant
7.62x38Rmm revolver, an ancient single-action design dating back to 1895.
My buddy Leon is a reloader as well as military arms collector and I save my brass for him if he's not at the range when I shoot. And he found to his
delight that brass from my Charter Arms Patriot .327 Federal Magnum works very well for reloading the 7.62x38R for his Nagant revolver. He said
brass for the Nagant is hard to find and expensive.
So he was trying out some of his .327/Nagant reloads and we had a very unsettling experience. I shot his Nagant and found it to be quite accurate at
10 yards despite its rather stiff trigger. I put 2 out of 3 rounds in the black of an 8" bulls-eye target.
I was shooting my new Sig Sauer P229 and my fairly new S&W M&P Compact, both .357 Sig caliber, while Leon was popping some more reloads in his
Nagant.
When we paused to reload, he said his Nagant had sounded odd as well as having quite a bit of blow-back around the cylinder, so he suspected a
squib load, a projectile stuck in the barrel. Blow-back around the cylinder is usually minimal with the Nagant due to its tight locking design.
"The Nagant M1895 was chambered for a proprietary cartridge, 7.62x38R, and featured an unusual "gas-seal" system in which the cylinder
moved forward when the gun was cocked to close the gap between the cylinder and the barrel, providing a (theoretical) boost to the muzzle
velocity of the fired projectile."
Leon got a bore rod out of his tools and inserted it down the bore and sure enough, it was blocked. He also had a brass hammer so with me holding
the Nagant, he began tapping the rod down the bore to clear it. Imagine our surprise when one projectile is tapped out but the bore is still blocked!
Leon keeps tapping and another projectile falls out. But the bore is still blocked! He keeps tapping and a third projectile finally falls out and the bore
is finally clear.
Three stuck bullets in the barrel and this ancient revolver didn't blow up in his hand! Don't tell me the Russians don't know how to build tank-tough
firearms. And after the bore was cleared, we examined it carefully and there was no swelling or any apparent damage.
Close examination of the jammed projectiles showed deep indentations from the lands and grooves of the barrel, much deeper than normal. Leon
said this indicates the .311-size jacketed rounds he was using for reloads are a bit too large for the Nagant's bore. And being cautious with his first
reloads for the Nagant, he had used a light powder load. The combination of slightly too-large projectile and a light powder load results in a squib
load. If the powder charge had not been light, the second and third projectile would no doubt have caused the barrel to explode.
Leon says he's going to drop down to about .308 bullets for future reloads with a higher charge. The .327 Federal Magnum brass can certainly handle
about any powder charge you want to put in it as the cartridge is factory loaded to handle up to 45,000 psi, which is a truckload of psi's.
So all's well that ends well, but if Leon had kept on shooting, who knows what would have happened. That Nagant would surely have blown up if he
had fired another round or two.
. 17 19
10/13/2014 8:32 PM
The Good Lord looks out for fools and drunks and members of "Sharpshooters 'R' Us" too!
http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?92272-Nagant-in-7.62x25
02-19-2009 05:22 PM #16
chester
Senior Member
Join Date
Jan 1970
Posts
1,127
If you are talking about the H & R .32 Magnum then the factory stuff are not hot rounds owing to H & R's and other break action revolvers on
the market.
I have a Ruger Single Action in that Cal. and they have to be souped up and they still wont blow wind up the A$$ of the old .32-20 factory
round.
===================================================================================================================
He would not know the Ballistics as he is a plinker' but i do know that due to case swelling he only gets one re-load out of the ones that dont
split on the first firering.
He knows a Gunsmith that can reem and sleeve the chambers so he can shoot .32 short, long, H & R Mag and the .327.
Ol' Elmer Huh? Yeah i have two of his books that i must have read half a dozen times and have learned a lot from them.
There was an old guy on the old Gunboards from Montana that knew Elmer and he said he could back up what he wrote
======================================================================================================================
02-21-2009 04:01 AM #26
chester
Senior Member
Join Date
Jan 1970
Posts
1,127
Originally Posted by Uncle Jaque

Yikes; I had no idea that the .327 was that hot!
Come to think about it, I don't know squat about the cartridge... at least I didn't until you came along and edified us. Thanks for that
update!
As a wild guess I'd suppose that the .327 might be right up there in horsepower with the .30 Tokarev.
Of course I would have done a lot more homework (as you obviously did) before actually trying to fire a .327 in a Nagant... which I don't
even own yet.
Apparently Chester's Brother in Law has given his Nagant a pretty good "proof test", wouldn't you say? No wonder the cases are splitting
on him! He's lucky that the cylinder hasn't done the same, apparently!
=================================================================================================================
Has anyone tried a WAY downloaded M-1 carbine round in a Nagant? You might have to rig a "half moon" clip system like they did for the
M-1917 S&W revolvers I suppose. I'll have to look up the comparative specs in my "Cartridges of the World" book just for hoots.
M-1 carbine brass is a lot more commonly available than .327 brass, I would think.
==================================================================================================================
Jake' I tried to talk to him to-day about that .327 Bizzo and' With Red hair and a handle like O'Breen he said Bull$hite and he hopes your
Chickens grow up to be Emu's and kick your $hithouse down:-))
There's still some Hillbilly's left down here y'know.
=================================================================================================================
Originally Posted by vonnieglen
. 18 19
10/13/2014 8:32 PM
I have looked pretty hard and have not been able to find any first hand accounts of Nagant Revolver failures resulting in an injury.
Most seem to refer back to the incident described by our very own point6. Point6 says in another thread that nothing showed up in
the papers and no one at the range would talk about it. How did he even find out what happened in the first place? Apperantly he
goes to a range with people who are much more tight lipped than the two that I belong to. At the clubs I belong to... shooting
often seems to take a back seat to swapping tall tales.
Incredibly, I have been able to find dozens of accounts of people shooting all sorts of different cartridges through the Nagant
Revolver up to and including just about any insane load someone has somehow managed to fit into the cylinder. You would think
that would translate into a high failure rate wouldn't you? Somehow, I haven't come across even one first hand account of someone
blowing up their gun. I don't doubt that it has happened; I would just like a link so that I can find out some actual details and see
some pictures. It is always just I heard this or that or the other thing from the internet or a friend of somebody's cousin. Let's learn
from some actual incidents.
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10/13/2014 8:32 PM

Forming 223 Rem Brass For The Nagant Revolver

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Forming 223 Rem Brass For The Nagant Revolver

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Forming 223 Rem brass for the Nagant revolver