Application for awarding Listed Status

to the Old College Buildings, Courtenay

Road, Splott, Cardiff

Photo copyright: Huw Thomas, 2015

Background
The Old College Building, Splott (formerly, St Illtyds Catholic Grammar School for Boys, and prior to
that, Splott University Settlement) was recently purchased by a property developer, John Smart. A
planning application was submitted to Cardiff Council in December, proposing the demolition of the
building in order to build 3 modern blocks of flats.1 These proposals have united the local community
in opposition to the loss of this popular landmark building. This document sets out the communitys
argument for why the Old College Building deserves to be protected and preserved. We request that
Cadw give urgent consideration to Spot Listing this unique building.

Building Overview and Setting

The Old College Building is located in the heart of Splott, a residential area of Cardiff that was rapidly
developed during the late 19th century to provide housing for workers at Cardiff docks, and the
nearby steelworks.

Image 1: Location of the Old College Building (within red outline) in Splott
The building falls into 3 different parts; the section accessed via a pedestrian walkway from
University Place, consisting of the oldest part of the building, opened in 1906; the section fronting on
to Courtenay Road, constructed in the 1930s; and the section adjoining the two ends of the building,
which was damaged by bombing during World War 2, and re-opened in 1944.

Details of the Planning Application may be found here http://planning.cardiff.gov.uk/onlineapplications/applicationDetails.do?activeTab=summary&keyVal=_CARDIFF_DCAPR_110670

Architectural History
The history of the site commences in 1904, when the University Settlement, which had been based
in a converted house on Portmanmoor Road, constructed a purpose built building on land owned by
Lord Tredegar, behind the houses on Splott Road. A sketch of this building is shown below.

Image 2: Sketch of the original University Settlement Hall, opened by the Mayor of Cardiff, Alderman
R. Hughes, in 19042
The site was designed with expansion in mind,3 given the rapid growth of the work of the
Settlement, and a Club House (which today still forms part of the Old College building) was
constructed in 1906. Plans showing relation of the two buildings to each other, and the surrounding
streets, as well as an extract of the designs for the second building are below. The club house had
separate entrances for Boys, Girls, and Men and Women, classrooms, a kitchen, and a large billiards
room. According to B.M. Bull, there was a great excited when the members moved into their new
building which was said to be a model one, admirably adapted for the use of the club. The secretary
rejoiced that every detail was thought out, even separate entrances for boys and girls, and serving
hatches from the club rooms to the kitchen.4

th

South Wales Graphic; February 8 , 1906.

See marked expansion area on 1904 Plans: Glamorgan Archives: BC/S/1/15464: New Settlement
Buildings, Walker Road, 1904
4

Bull, B.M.; The University Settlement in Cardiff. The School of Printing, Cardiff College of Art: 1965

Photo copyright: Glamorgan Archives, 2015

Image 3: Plans for the expansion of the University Settlement, constructing part of the structure that
still stands today.

Photo copyright: Glamorgan Archives, 2015

Image 4: Extract of designs for the expansion building, which still stand today.
Both of these buildings were designed by renowned Arts and Crafts architect Robert Weir Schultz,
best known for his collaborations with the Marquesses of Bute. Schultz undertook a number of
major projects for the 3rd and 4th Marquesses of Bute, many of which are now listed buildings. These

include major renovation works at Mount Stuart, Dumfries House and Falkland Palace. Other
examples of his work include St Andrews Chapel at Westminster Cathedral, and the Anglican
Cathedral of Khartoum, Sudan. However, this is the only known example of his work in Wales,
therefore giving the building national significance.
Although funds for construction came from other Cardiff patrons such as Lord Tredegar,
architectural historian Gavin Stamp, in his book on Schultz, argues it seems highly unlikely that any
charitable project in Cardiff should not enjoy the patronage of Lord Bute and his recommendation
can be the only explanation for Schultz being employed in a city where he had done no other work.5
Economy was clearly a key consideration, with Schultz himself describing the design as follows: I
thought that the cheapest form of construction would be by forming the roof and posts out of
ordinary deals bolted together. I worked out my ideas and found them possible of realisation at a
minimum of cost.6 Red Bridgewater bricks and Bridgewater pan-tiles on the roof were the other
materials used which, whilst basic and economical justified Schultzs belief that good architecture
comes from using sound materials with care and thought.7 Images 5 and 6 show here how Schultzs
Clubhouse has survived into the 21st century.

Photo copyright: Christopher Hogg, 2015

Image 5: Mens entrance to the Clubhouse, viewed from University Place

Stamp, Gavin; Robert Weir Schultz: Architect, and his work for the Marquesses of Bute. Mount
Stuart: 1981
6
7

ibid
ibid

Photo copyright: Christopher Hogg, 2015

Image 6: The Eastern aspect of the building, showing the Boys and Girls exit on to the playing area.
Further construction work took place in 1929, with the space between the Hall and the Club house
being filled in to provide classrooms for the Catholic School which now occupied the site. The plans
of this extension may be seen in Image 7 below. This is the section most damaged by the air raid,
though some features have survived.

Photo copyright: Glamorgan Archives, 2015

Image 7: Plans of the 1929 expansion, showing the interaction with the existing structures.
The final extension to the building commenced in 1936, when the buildings impressive faade was
constructed on the site of the original hall to designs by St Helens architect, William Ellis. It is not
clear from plans whether the interior of the original hall was retained within the new structure;
testimony from Paul Flynn MP, a former pupil , confirms that a hall space continued to exist within
the extension, and was well known as an impressive venue, so much so that the BBC broadcast
concerts from the hall.
The faade itself has a number of decorative features, which are described beautifully in the
following extract from The Illtydian school magazine, published in 1964 shortly before the school left
for new premises.
The best the outstanding approach is by way of Farmville Road, from which, topping a
slight but commanding rise, Ellis's monumental facade appears to the greatest advantage.
Were I planning the last day in the present buildings....I would be tempted to march the
school up this road as a grand gesture of farewell.
Above them the boys would see St.Patrick and St. De La salle; still higher the star, signum
fidei; and the cross, fidei coticula; and surrounding these the old motto of the crusading
Stradlings of St. Donat's - Duw a digon. If this is to be St. Illtyd's memorial ...for the last forty
years, who would require more?"
The authors faith that the building would remain as a fitting and worthy memorial to the deeds
undertaken within it seems all the more powerful and poignant today, under the threat of
demolition.

Photo copyright: Christopher Hogg, 2015

Image 8: Details of the statue of a saint on the faade

Photo copyright: Huw Thomas, 2015

Image 9: Details of the Cross and Moto at the top of the faade.

Historical Significance
The historical importance of the Old College Building pertains to both its time as an University
Settlement, and as a Catholic Grammar school, and cannot be understated.
The University Settlement movement traces its origins to a growing feeling of social concern that
took root within University bodies during the 19th century, driven by a growing separation between
the classes, and the deprivation of the poor. Responses to this situation saw university men joining
the church, specifically to minister to the poor in so called slum parishes, and also an increased
focus on delivering education to working men. The University Settlement movement however was a
new approach, as B.M. Bull explains the purpose of settlements was to provide organised centres in
poor neighbourhoods, where for the first time working as a group, rather than singly, university men
could live amongst the poor, learn about them and offer them help and friendship.
The first settlement, which survives to today, was Toynbee Hall in Whitechapel, London, opened in
1884, and the movement soon spread to other cities. At Cardiff University, two academics were
instrumental in establishing the settlement in Splott; Professor JS Mackenzie, a professor of logic and
philosophy who argued that the isolation of the classes is an evil for all, and Professor Ronald
Burrows who had been interested in Christian Socialist ideas of co-operation since his time as a
student at Oxford. Encouraged by the enthusiasm of their students, they sought further support
from other University staff, and the citizens of Cardiff. In 1901, a Committee of the University
Council was established, with the aim of setting up a settlement in a poor district of the City.
Following advice from the Chief Constable of Cardiff, the newly industrialised area of Splott was
chosen, and in Autumn 1901, outreach work began out of two converted houses on Portmanmoor
Road.
The success of the settlement in its first few years convinced the Welsh University Association of the
need to expand. A company limited by guarantee was formed, adopting the name of the University
Settlement in Cardiff in January 1904. The aims of the Settlement were captured in a Memorandum
of Association, modelled almost exactly on that of the Mother Settlement, Toynbee Hall. The aims
as stated were:
To promote the education and instruction of and the means of recreation for, and to
inquire into the condition of the people of the poor districts of Cardiff and adjacent places;
to promote on the footing of social intercourse, the acquaintance of the people with the
past and present members of the Welsh and other Universities and other persons friendly to
the objects of the Association; to provide for the residence in such districts of persons
engaged in or connected with philanthropic or educational work; and to consider and
advance plans calculated to promote the general welfare of the people of the poorer
districts of Cardiff and adjacent places.8
These noble and high-minded principles manifested themselves in the variety of facilities and
activities available at the site on Courtenay Road ( then known as Walker Road). These included
educational classes for boys and girls, evening classes and a debating society for men and women, a
8

As quoted in Bull, B.M. ibid

library, a gymnasium, dance classes, a billiard room, the production of plays, regular free concerts,
and excursions to the countryside, providing the residents of the area (numbering 500-600 people)
with a range of experiences which would otherwise have been totally beyond their means. A number
of prominent figures visited the Settlement, both to deliver a public address, and to see first hand
the work being achieved. These included the then Principal of Birmingham University, Sir Oliver
Lodge, the Warden of the Manchester University Settlement, and perhaps most significantly, Sydney
Webb, founder of the London School of Economics, and his wife Beatrice who had together helped
found the Fabian Society, and crafted the objectives of the Labour Party, who delivered a talk in
Splott on the findings of the Poor Law Commission.
The fortunes of the Settlement would wax and wane until the Great War commenced, when most
members of both the Mens and Lads clubs dispersed to the frontlines. The building was
requisitioned for billeting wounded soldiers in 1915, and following the end of the conflict, restarting
the Settlement proved too difficult, with local historian noting that members were dispersed, and
the sense of urgency gone. 9
Despite its relatively short existence, the Cardiff University Settlement marks an important chapter
in the development of social welfare, forming a pioneering example of the kind of outreach work
that continues to be practiced today through the Adult Education movement, and Local Authority
Youth Services. As the only example of its kind in Wales, the site in Splott is nationally significant,
exemplifying a social trend at the turn of the last century where the countrys educated elite took
positive and deliberate action to relieve the burden of the poor in the inner cities.
The historical significance of the Old College Building does not end with the closing of the Settlement
however. The site was purchased in 1923 by the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Cardiff, and in 1924
became the first Catholic Boys Grammar School in Wales, operated by the De La Salle Brothers.
Drawing largely from the large Irish-immigrant population that had settled around Cardiff docks, the
school provide education to the community on the site until the 1960s, when, having expanded
beyond the capacity of the site, it relocated to Llanrumney. Amongst the many distinguished alumni
who attended the school during its time in Splott were poets Danny Abse and John James,
playwright and theatre director Peter Gill, and politician Paul Flynn. The school continues to be
indelibly linked to the area, with the Old Illtydians Social Club based on Splott Road, and the Old
Illtydian Rugby Club now based at the Old Library on Singleton Road, and playing on Moorland Park,
a scant 200 metres from the Old College Buildings. The destruction of the building would therefore
represent a severing of a historical link which is still cherished by the local community today.
Following St Illtyds move to Llanrumney, the Old College building was used for a variety of
commercial purposes, though it has been largely empty for the past decade. It was most recently
used as a location by the BBC for the filming of Dr Who. Interior and exterior shots of the building
can be seen in the episode The Caretaker, giving the building a renewed significance in the 21st
century.

Childs, Jeff; Roath, Splott and Adamsdown: One Thousand Years of History. The History Press,
Stroud: 2012

The Building in its local context

The Old College building forms an important element of one of the most historically well-preserved
areas of Splott. Dic Mortimer, in his biography of Cardiff notes that at the turn of the century,
slightly larger houses, for the many white-collar clerks and managers at the steelworks and other
manufacturers extended Moorland Road southwards and filled the last few areas of Lower Splott
Farm. These houses were sited on what would become known as Courtenay Road, University Place,
and Farmville Road, and are directly adjacent to the Old College building (see Image 10 below).

Photo copyright: Christopher Hogg, 2015

Image 10: Western aspect of the Old College Building, showing its relationship to nearby properties
on Courtenay Road, and taken from outside Lower Splott Farm (now the Old Vicarage, Splott).
Lower Splott Farm itself, which alter became the Vicarage for St Saviours Church on Splott Road, is
almost exactly opposite the Old College building, and is itself a Grade II listed building (1992). This
was due to it being a stylistically distinctive building for this area of largely late C19 buildings and
for its importance to the history of Splott with its origins in pre-industrial Cardiff.10 The Old College
building opposite meets the same criteria for listing, in terms of its distinctiveness within the local
area, and also for the significance of its history, both within a local and national context. Moreover,

10

http://planning.cardiff.gov.uk/onlineapplications/files/DF5C7180220C945E4F69767E96370999/pdf/12_02170_DCI-HERITAGE_ASSESSMENT1048095.pdf

the demolition of the Old College building would have an adverse impact on the historical
surroundings of Lower Splott Farm.
As mentioned previously, the Old Library Building, Splott, is also closely located to the Old College.
The Old Library was the first branch library opened in Cardiff, in the 1890s, and represents another
aspect of the social work undertaken during this period to raise the conditions of the workers. The
Old College building, together with the recently refurbished Old Library, Lower Splott Farm, and the
two former pubs on Moorland Road (both now converted into flats) are the only distinct buildings in
an area otherwise only noted for its row upon row of terraced housing. The demolition of the Old
College would therefore be an unacceptable loss of one of they key buildings which helped shape
the local area.

Expressions of support
Since the threat to demolish the Old College building has become widely known, there has been an
outpouring of support for the preservation of the building. This has come from a huge variety of
sources, and a selection of these comments is listed here:
Professor Gavin Stamp, FSA, Hon FRIAS, Hon FRIBA, architectural historian and author of Robert
Weir Schultz and his Work for the Marquesses of Bute. Having thought that Schultz's remarkable
hall for the Cardiff University Settlement had disappeared, it is thrilling to discover that his
associated club house survives. It is therefore important and precious as a work by the architect
Robert Weir Schultz, who is increasingly emerging as a major figure both in the Arts & Crafts
Movement and in Byzantine studies. And Schultz's most interesting commissions were carried out
for those remarkable and discriminating patrons of the arts, the Third and Fourth Marquesses of
Bute, who, of course, did so much for Cardiff. Schultz's club house (his only work in Wales) must be
listed, and preserved.
Peter Howell, formerly Chairman of the Victorian Society, co-author of the Companion Guides to
Wales. Robert Weir Schultz was a most accomplished architect of the Arts and Crafts school, whose
work for the 3rd and 4th Marquesses of Bute forms the subject of a scholarly and elegant book by
Gavin Stamp. I have worked in a building for which he was partly responsible, and I know St
Andrew's Chapel at Westminster Cathedral well. At a conference on Byzantine influence on the Arts
and Crafts movement held last year at King's College, London, much attention was paid to him. I very
much hope that this building, which is a distinguished piece of architecture and a notable feature of
the architectural history of Cardiff, will be preserved.
Jeff Childs, author of Roath, Splott and Adamsdown. One Thousand Years of History I fully support
this application for listing. The Cardiff University Settlement in Splott was the only one in Wales and
was, in effect, the equivalent of the world-famous Toynbee Hall in Whitechapel. As such, it takes its
place alongside settlements in Manchester, Birmingham, Glasgow, Edinburgh, Liverpool, Bristol and
other places as late-Victorian and early-Edwardian centres and providers of learning and culture for
poor and deprived children of large urban areas. In combating the stigma, social exclusion,
powerlessness and the lack of opportunity and choice which are the hallmarks of poverty, the
settlements (several of which like Toynbee Hall are still fully-functioning) have left a terrific legacy in
terms of social action, voluntarism and education. A good proportion of the original buildings of the
Cardiff settlement survive and require protection and preservation in view of the sites significance,

which is amplified by the fact that it subsequently became the home to St Illtyds College, the first
Roman Catholic grammar school in Wales, whose 1937 extension is of considerable architectural
merit.
Liam Affley, Chair, Wales and the Marches Catholic History Society. Within the context of historic
interest, this building is unique because it represents an important element in the the social history,
not only of Cardiff but of the whole of Wales.
Firstly, we believe its preservation is crucial to our knowledge and understanding of the Settlement
Movement and its aim to provide educational, social and cultural opportunities to the poorer
members of society. Secondly, the importance of the building to the Cardiff Catholic community
cannot be underestimated. After the First World War the building became home to St. Illtyd's
College. St Illtyd's was the only Catholic grammar school for boys in Wales and its educational and
religious philosophy was encapsulated in the magnificent facade which exists today.
In short, to destroy the building - and its facade - would, we feel, result in a major loss to the citizens
of Cardiff and beyond."
Ken Poole FRICS, Head of Economic Development, Cardiff County Council. There is no doubt the
University Settlement movement was a significant social movement at the end of the 19th and
beginning of the 20th century and the foundations of the Christian socialist movement . The building
in Splott was purpose built and while it had a relatively short life the name Splott US persisted to
well into the 1960s with the local baseball team.
Paul Flynn MP, former St Illtyds College pupil. You could describe growing up in Grangetown, going
to school in Splott as the dream ticket. I have very happy memories of the building, and it would be
a real shame to see it destroyed. I can remember the hall at St Illtyds being particularly impressive,
and the BBC would regularly broadcast concerts from there.
Stephen Doughty, MP for Cardiff South and Penarth. As a local resident of Splott myself, I know
how important this building is to the local community. Moreover, the historical significance of the
building, forming a key part of social and political developments, and the movement to promote the
welfare of workers at the start of the 20th century make this a unique building which must be
preserved.
Huw Thomas, Ed Stubbs, Gretta Marshall, County Councillors for Splott & Tremorfa. This building
is a much-loved part of the fabric of Splott. It is a salutary reminder of the areas working class roots,
and how the people of Splott fought to rise out of poverty through education. It is a distinct building,
with an unique architectural history. Its loss would rob the ward of an important link with its past,
and severely damage the historical integrity of the area.
Mr Christopher Hogg and Mr Nicholas Hunt, local residents. There are very few such buildings in
the Splott area and we believe the demolition of such an historic and handsome building would be a
travesty. The loss of the building will take away character from the area and would be replaced with
what is a modern faceless monstrosity. Why it was never listed escapes us.
David James, local resident. If demolished, an iconic building will be completely lost from Cardiffs
landscape. Having featured in prime time television programmes in recent months it is clear that the

building is not just symbolic but has a function as well. If the development involved measures to
preserve and rejuvenate the existing building then the news may not have come as such a heavy
blow, but it seems that the proposed development is only taking things from the area and giving
very little, if any, benefit back.

Conclusion
To summarise, this application outlines why the Old College building is a much loved local building,
which greatly enhances the historic character of the surrounding area, whose loss would have a
detrimental impact on its environs, including the already listed structure of Lower Splott Farm
opposite.
Most important, we believe this application successfully demonstrates that the building is of
national significance, both architecturally, and due to its social history. By virtue of being the only
building in Wales built by Arts and Craft architect, and Marquess of Bute collaborator, Robert Weir
Schultz, the architectural importance of the building cannot be understated. Similarly, as the only
example of the remarkable University Settlement movement in Wales, and also the site of Wales
first Catholic Grammar school, the building has a unique place in the social fabric of the nation.
It is therefore imperative that the building is listed, so as to be protected from demolition, and
preserved for future generations.
For further details, please contact the principal author of this application, Councillor Huw Thomas,
19 Wilson St,
Splott
CF24 2NZ
07581 163203
Huw.thomas@cardiff.gov.uk
Bibliography

Bull, B.M.; The University Settlement in Cardiff. The School of Printing, Cardiff College of Art: 1965
Childs, Jeff; Roath, Splott and Adamsdown: One Thousand Years of History. The History Press, Stroud:
2012
Mortimer, Dic; Cardiff: The Biography. Amberley Publishing, Stroud: 2014
Stamp, Gavin; Robert Weir Schultz: Architect, and his work for the Marquesses of Bute. Mount Stuart:
1981
The following plans area held at the Glamorgan Archives, and have been reproduced, in part, in the
application above:
BC/S/1/15464: New Settlement Buildings, Walker Road, 1904

BC/S/1/16215: Plan of University Settlement Buildings, University Place, 1906

BC/S/1/26592: Alterations and additions to St. Illtyd's College, St. Illtyd's College, Courtenay Road,
1936
BC/S/1/40688: Rebuilding of St. Illtyd's College, St. Illtyd's College, Courtenay Road, 1951