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About This Instructable

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LongToe
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(http://cdn.instructables.com/FG5/9B1W/GEG58KGL/FG59B1WGEG58KGL.LARGE.jpg)

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(/member/LongToe/)
Bio: I'm a software engineer who tries to
stay away from the computer when I'm not
at work.
More by LongToe

After seeing this bike (http://bicycledesign.net/2009/06/a-student-design-for-abent-ply-bike/.) on a bicycle design blog I was inspired to build my own. It was
made by someone named John Hobson. The concept is the same, but mine is
fairly different.
Also I had some left over epoxy and fiberglass from a kayak I built
(http://www.instructables.com/id/Stitch-and-Glue-Kayak/)
and was just itching to
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FJI/KEZO/GEG58KIE/FJIKEZOGEG58KIE.LARGE.jpg)
find a project I could use it on (or maybe I was just itchy from all the fiberglass).
Anyway, since I wasn't thrilled with my current bike that was a cheapo 15 year
old big box store bike, I thought it would be great to replace the old frame with a
wood composite frame and have something unique.
The part of the design I liked was that the top and bottom parts of the frame are
like leaf springs separated by the seat tube. I thought that having a suspension
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F1M/FOPP/GEG58KI6/F1MFOPPGEG58KI6.LARGE.jpg)
system integrated into the frame was a really cool idea. Ideally vibrations and
bumps would be absorbed into the frame and returned back to the wheels,
without making the frame too bouncy. The frame I built consists of plywood,
fiberglass, epoxy, and even paper, so there is no welding required.
Before I get started here's some bike terminology I had to learn:
Head Tube - short tube for the handle bars, and front fork assembly.
Top Tube - horizontal section that connects the seat tube to the head tube.
Down Tube - diagonal section that connect the head tube to the bottom bracket.
Bottom Bracket - This is where the pedals and crank attach.
Seat Tube - longer tube that the seat post slides into.
Chain Stays - Two sections that connect the bottom bracket to the rear wheel.
Seat Stays - Two sections that lead from the seat to the rear wheel.
Dropouts - brackets to connect the rear wheel.
Caution: Riding a bike is dangerous, riding a home built bike is even more so. If
you decide to build a bike, take it slow, wear a helmet and other protective
equipment, reinspect your work, and be prepared for it to break at any moment.

CNC tube bending

Precision tube bending from
samples or drawings

Bike wheels
taylor-wheels.com

Europes bike wheel manufacturer

No 1 - Quality made in Germany

Crankskins
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Tags:
bike (/tag/type-id/category-outside/keyword-bike/)
bicycle (/tag/type-id/category-outside/keywordbicycle/)
bent plywood (/tag/type-id/category-outside/keywordbent plywood/)
fiberglass (/tag/type-id/category-outside/keywordfiberglass/)
epoxy (/tag/type-id/category-outside/keyword-epoxy/)
veneer (/tag/type-id/category-outside/keywordveneer/)

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Step 1: Get The Materials

See More (/tag/type-id/?q=)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FAK/3SBX/GB5HEA8N/FAK3SBXGB5HEA8N.LARGE.jpg)

I looked at the 1/8 inch plywood at Lowes and Home Depot, but I wasn't very
happy with the quality. I then went to a local woodworking store and found some
good looking 1/8" baltic birch plywood in 5'x5' sheets that had a nice light color.
It was about $20 per sheet so if it turns into a disaster I wont be too upset. I also
bought a pack of birch veneer to wrap around the seat and head tube.
I bought a bottom bracket, bottom bracket shell, and crank from Amazon for
about $50. The rest of the parts I plan to take from a junk bike I had lying
around.
The fiberglass, epoxy, and spar varnish were left over from a kayak build. I
bought these online from a boat building supplier. It is 6 oz glass cloth and the
epoxy is clear, non-blushing that takes about 24 hours or more to fully cure.
Tools needed: Saw, sandpaper, rasp, a couple of pliers, drill, power sander,
power jig saw, some solid wire, natural fiber rope or twine, a vise, and several
disposable brushes, cups, and latex gloves. When needed be sure to wear eye
protection and a mask to keep gunk out of your lungs. I also had to buy some
specialty bike tools, a chain tool and crank arm remover.
For removing parts off the old bike I used a hack saw, locking pliers, bench
grinder, and a Dremel.

Step 2: Cut Some Plywood

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FY1/KSY6/GDRPYNUJ/FY1KSY6GDRPYNUJ.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FGV/1EW5/GE7LEYIX/FGV1EW5GE7LEYIX.LARGE.jpg)

For cutting I used a coping saw, although other saws would work. Just be
careful not to tear up the wood too much, especially when cutting across the
grain.
In order to get an even bend, the pieces should roughly have an even width. The
rear wheel section has a fork with two 1 1/2" wide sections that are 3 3/4" apart.
The rear forks are 13" long, and they narrow to 3" apart where they join
together. It thens tapers down to a single 3" strip. The total length is 43" The
dimension don't have to be perfect since I will shape the frame once it is all
glued together.
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F3Y/55BE/GE7LEYLS/F3Y55BEGE7LEYLS.LARGE.jpg)

I only cut 4 pieces to start with. Two of them are a 1/2" longer to account for the
extra length needed when bending. Small holes are drilled into the ends of the
boards so they can be wired together. The two outer boards have the holes an
1/8" further from the edge so they can line up with the inner holes, and still come
together at the end.
Wire up the boards and see how the ends look. For wire I used 18 gauge solid
copper wire. At this point I had to cut a little bit off the ends of the outer boards
to make sure they came together like I wanted. A temporary seat tube is made
out of a piece of PVC with fabric taped to the ends to prevent it from slipping off
the plywood. The fabric adds some friction to keep the tube in place, although it
still slips off more often than I'd like.
Several times I held up the frame to my old $99 cheapo bike to see if the
dimensions looked right. Once the frame is the right size, I cut the glass fabric to
the shape of the boards.

Step 3: Initial Glue Up

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F59/TPSE/GE7LEYMA/F59TPSEGE7LEYMA.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FPD/ISBU/GE7LEYM7/FPDISBUGE7LEYM7.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FLR/IWHW/GE7LEYMK/FLRIWHWGE7LEYMK.LARGE.jpg)

I chose to layer fiberglass between each piece of plywood mainly because I

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FDS/AFY1/GE7LEYMF/FDSAFY1GE7LEYMF.LARGE.jpg)
have a bunch
of it. Hopefully this will add durability but I don't know if doing this
will make the frame stiffer or more flexible. If I were to do this again I would skip
the extra fiberglass and just add a few more layers of wood to increase the
visual impact of a wood bike.
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F07/N7UN/GE7LEYMR/F07N7UNGE7LEYMR.LARGE.jpg)

Be sure you know how to use the epoxy before you start and always wear
gloves. The four boards are first painted with epoxy on one side then the glass is
wetted out onto two of the boards. They are then sandwiched together and the
ends are loosely wired together.
It takes a couple tries to get it bent into shape and wired together, but once I got
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FUQ/P1BA/GE7LEYMY/FUQP1BAGE7LEYMY.LARGE.jpg)
the temporary
seat tube in place with the plywood bent around it, I could tighten
up the wires. I tried to make a herring bone pattern where the plywood is wired
together, but I was only moderately successful. I used some homemade clamps
(http://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-Clamps-From-Plastic-Pipe/) to
keep the boards tight together. After it cured I removed the wires and sanded it
out.

Step 4: Laminate, Laminate, Laminate

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F8A/WJGM/GE7LFDIN/F8AWJGMGE7LFDIN.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FG8/PT9D/GE7LFDLR/FG8PT9DGE7LFDLR.LARGE.jpg)

This is quite a long process. I chose to do one layer at a time, and I'm getting 2
layers done per week. The steps are. Draw and cut out 2 boards. Cut the
fiberglass to match the boards. Clamp the boards on dry to make sure they are
the right size. Prepare the epoxy and paint it on one side of the frame and on
one side of the new boards. Wet out the fiberglass onto the new boards. Clamp
it all together and let it cure for 24+ hours. After it's hard (the epoxy should not
dent from pushing your fingernail into it) cut off the excess fiberglass, sand out
any bumps, and do it again.
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F7S/S3Q5/GE7LFDLV/F7SS3Q5GE7LFDLV.LARGE.jpg)

Out of the 5'x5' sheet I squeezed out 14 pieces. Thus I have seven layers each
for the top tube and the down tube sections. I discovered (a bit too late) that if I
make the boards a little too long, I can cut off the excess while it's dry clamped
to the frame. On this frame, I placed four layers on top and one layer of plywood
on the inside of the frame to cover up the wire holes, and hide any scuffing
caused the clamping and reclamping.
Because of the bending, the rear chain stays and seat stays have a tendency to
move closer together. To stop this I had to add a scrap piece of plywood
between the stays to maintain the distance. Once all the layers were added and
cured I cut out the scrap plywood. To protect the wood I added a final layer of
fiberglass on the top and bottom of the frame.

Step 5: Make Tubes

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FTH/WPM0/GE7LFGJ1/FTHWPM0GE7LFGJ1.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FED/1G0A/GE7LFGIU/FED1G0AGE7LFGIU.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F3I/CENE/GE7LFGJ8/F3ICENEGE7LFGJ8.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FEX/OJWW/GE7LFGIX/FEXOJWWGE7LFGIX.LARGE.jpg)

The seat tube and head tube are made out of fiberglass, brown packing paper,
and birch veneer all wrapped around a pipe used for a mandrel. For the seat
tube I used part of an old shower curtain rod with the decorative plastic
removed. It just happened to be the same diameter of my seat post. For the
head tube I used 1 in. pvc pipe that had an outside diameter of 1.3 in.
I planned to attach a front derailleur to the seat tube so I had to pay attention to
both the inner and outer diameter of the tube. The seat post was 1 in. in
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F9O/3WR5/GEI9CS1B/F9O3WR5GEI9CS1B.LARGE.jpg)
diameter and
the derailleur needs a 31.8 mm (1 1/4 in.) seat tube so I had to
make the tube 1/4 in. thick (1/8 in. on each side). I also integrated the old bike's
seat post clamp into the tube so I wouldn't have to figure out how to put it on
later.
There are some helpful websites for amateur rocketry that provide instructions
on how to make fiberglass tubes, but my experience was difficult. It took 3 tries
to make the seat tube. The first attempt made a tube with an internal layer of
paper that was way too loose. The 2nd attempt was a very tight tube of fiber
glass and paper, but it wouldn't slide off the pipe. Finally I made a tube of only
fiberglass and with effort was able to pull the pipe out. The head tube is much
smaller and slide off the pipe fairly easily.
Here's the steps I finally used:

1. Sand the pipe so it's smooth

2. Lubricate the outside of the pipe, with grease or wax, but leave the ends
clean so the wax paper can be taped on.
3. Wrap the pipe with wax paper, and tape the ends so it stays in place.
4. wrap the tube two times with fiberglass and epoxy. Using latex gloves I was
able to wrap the epoxy soaked fiberglass flat onto the pipe so that there no
bubbles or gaps. Don't make it too tight though or it will never slide off.
5. Let the the tube cure, but not completely.
6. Remove the pipe: Remove the tape then break the pipe free by locking the
fiberglassed section into a vise and twist the pipe with pliers. Work the pipe out
by pulling and twisting with the pliers on one end and push the pipe with a stick
or smaller pipe on the other end. Take care to cause as little damage as
possible but there will be some.
7. Remove the wax paper, and slide the fiberglass tube back on the pipe.
Sand it and coat with more epoxy and wrap with several layers of paper to add
some thickness and add some epoxy as you go. The paper doesn't need to be
soaked with epoxy.
8. Let it cure. I used some cord to keep the paper tightly wrapped while it cured.
9. Sand the pipe again, and measure the circumference, to get an idea of how
much veneer is needed. Cut the veneer so it overlaps the pipe by about a 1/4 1/2 of an inch and sand the inside edge of the veneer to a sharp blade (the
outside edge gets sanded after the epoxy cures). The blade edge will go down
first then the opposite edge will lap over it.
10. Add another layer of fiberglass and epoxy followed by the veneer layer. The
veneer bends easier once it's been wetted out with epoxy.
11. Let cure. This time I used wire ties to the keep the veneer wrapped around
the
tube.
12. Sand the veneer to get rid of the over lapped edge, and to remove any
marks or indentations caused by the wire ties.
13. Finally apply the last layer of fiberglass.
14. Let cure
15. Sand it smooth.
The Head tube ended up being 1/8 inch thick with an inner diameter of 1 5/16 in.
and outer diameter of 1 9/16 in.
I originally tried to use a 28.6 mm front deraileur, but it wouldn't fit, so I added
another layer of fiberglass at the bottom of the seat tube and used a 31.8 mm
derailleur. The seat tube finally had an inner diameter of 1 1/16 in. and an outer
diameter of 1 5/16 in.

Step 6: Dropouts

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FJJ/XLVJ/GE7LFGHS/FJJXLVJGE7LFGHS.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FDX/9CYR/GE7LFGHX/FDX9CYRGE7LFGHX.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FBN/8X9L/GE7LFGHO/FBN8X9LGE7LFGHO.LARGE.jpg)

For shaping the frame I began at the back and worked my way to the front. I
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FY1/7M6C/GE7LFGHL/FY17M6CGE7LFGHL.LARGE.jpg)
plan to attach
the dropouts by gluing them into slots using thickened epoxy. If it
doesn't hold I may have to revert to bolts instead.
To create the slots, I dug a channel into the back the same size as the dropouts.
I first cut out
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FF0/VHCE/GEG586ZJ/FF0VHCEGEG586ZJ.LARGE.jpg)
the area using a Dremel rotary tool, then moved on to using a hand
drill and wood bit and moved it up and down the channel to route out the wood. I
designed it so that the dropouts have to be rotated into the slot, opposite the
direction the frame pushes on the wheel.
I chose the go ahead and glue in the dropouts before shaping the stays. To
thicken the epoxy I combined sawdust with wheat flour I got out of the kitchen.
With a little(http://cdn.instructables.com/F4P/2DTC/GEG58K9L/F4P2DTCGEG58K9L.LARGE.jpg)
experimenting I was able to come close to the color of the wood.
Before gluing in the dropouts I made sure they were clean and grinded in some
pits with a Dremel so the epoxy can get a good grip on the metal.
A string taped down the middle of the bike helped me make sure each side was
even. Then I used a handheld jigsaw to cutout off the edges along the seat and
chain stays and used a flexible wire as a straight edge to help pencil in where
the cuts should be.

Step 7: Bottom Bracket and Seat Tube

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FVI/EQR1/GE7LFGL5/FVIEQR1GE7LFGL5.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FDP/NM5Z/GE7LFGK2/FDPNM5ZGE7LFGK2.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FZK/ZV0B/GEG5871F/FZKZV0BGEG5871F.LARGE.jpg)

Show All 7 Items

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F6S/A54G/GE7LFGL9/F6SA54GGE7LFGL9.LARGE.jpg)

The bottom bracket section needs to be shaped such that the frame has
clearance between the rear tire and the sprockets on the pedal crank. To do this
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FS1/KY57/GE7LFGM1/FS1KY57GE7LFGM1.LARGE.jpg)
hold the bottom
bracket with the crank loosely installed to the frame and
measure where the cuts should go. Make a small cut to the frame then measure
again. After doing this several times it should fit. Then cut the other side so it is
symmetrical. The down tube ended up being 1 7/8 in wide.
To determine where the bottom bracket and seat tube should go I held the bike
up to my old bike to get an idea. I drilled a hole for the seat tube using a 1 1/4in
hole saw.(http://cdn.instructables.com/FO8/QCSB/GE7LFGM7/FO8QCSBGE7LFGM7.LARGE.jpg)
Once the seat tube hole is made, the edges can be cut off leaving 3/4
- 1 in. of the frame on either side of the seat tube. Then taper the top tube
section down to 2 in wide.
Once the seat tube is glued in place I glued the bottom bracket shell on the
opposite side the down tube. I went ahead and wrapped some extra birch
veneer around the bottom bracket but it wasn't really necessary.
Since the bottom bracket is basically hanging from the bottom of the frame, it
needs a lot of reinforcement to keep it on. In my first attempt I tried to fasten it
with a paper and fiberglass composite, but it didn't look that great. Also I
neglected to reinforce the connection between the seat tube and the bottom of
the frame. It cracked on a test ride, and gave me a really wobbly crank.

In the next attempt I used strips of fiberglass cloth wrapped from the seat tube
over the frame to the bottom bracket and back, and then I wrapped the whole
area with many lashings of a natural fiber rope I had in the shed. Everything was
wetted with epoxy before applying. I used wire ties to add some compression to
the joints, but in retrospect I probably should have used some plastic or
electrical tape to get rid of the lines left by the wire ties.
It might be possible to place the bottom bracket on top of the down tube, but you
would lose ground clearance, and you may need to use a more sophisticated
bending technique than that of a stick and some wire.

Step 8: Head Tube

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FNQ/I8MF/GE7LFGMQ/FNQI8MFGE7LFGMQ.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FLU/0BUX/GE7LFGMT/FLU0BUXGE7LFGMT.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FN0/PNBF/GEG5875E/FN0PNBFGEG5875E.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FSJ/RL8Y/GE7LFGMX/FSJRL8YGE7LFGMX.LARGE.jpg)

The hard part about attaching the head tube is getting it in the right position. I
used my old bike as a template to get the forward/backward angle right, then I
was able to use my hole saw and drill it out. When checking to see if the hole is

lined up right, I found it helpful to insert the PVC pipe into the head tube and see
if it looks true.
Unfortunately the left/right angle wasn't right, so I had to do some sanding and
used a couple nails to temporaryily hold the head tube in the right spot while the
epoxy cured. Once it cured I could remove the nails and add more flour and
sawdust thickened epoxy around the tube.

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FS7/4N2S/GEG5875K/FS74N2SGEG5875K.LARGE.jpg)

Step 9: Cable Stops and Head Tube Cups

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FJ4/1BBE/GEG586J8/FJ41BBEGEG586J8.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FLV/K5V4/GEG586O7/FLVK5V4GEG586O7.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FMV/XB18/GEG586I5/FMVXB18GEG586I5.LARGE.jpg)

Now that the headset, seat tube, and rear dropouts were in place I could spend
some time(http://cdn.instructables.com/F0Y/90KN/GEG586QA/F0Y90KNGEG586QA.LARGE.jpg)
finalizing the frame shape and sand everything smooth. It should now
look like a bicycle frame.
I created the cable stops out of left over pieces of the frame. I cut a rectangular
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F98/269K/GEG586I8/F98269KGEG586I8.LARGE.jpg)
piece and drilled a hole halfway thru about the size of the cable shielding, then a
small hole all the way thru for the actual cable. Carefully I sawed a slot to the
hole for adding and removing the cable, and rounded off the corners.
I pressed the headset cups from the junk bike into place by hand. After a little
sanding they fit inside of the head tube snugly. To make the old parts look better

I taped off parts of the bike and spray painted silver on the headset cups, seat
post clamp, and rear dropouts.

Step 10: (http://cdn.instructables.com/FGS/SWNN/GEG586KZ/FGSSWNNGEG586KZ.LARGE.jpg)

Finish And Assemble

Bent Plywood Bicycle

by LongToe (/member/LongToe/)

(/contest/woodworking/)

(/contest/makeitstick/)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FCW/7SIK/GEG58KKT/FCW7SIKGEG58KKT.LARGE.jpg)

Download (/id/Bent-Plywood-Bicycle/?download=pdf)

(/id/Bent-Plywood-Bicycle/)

10 Steps

Collection

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FJO/20SF/GEI9CRZD/FJO20SFGEI9CRZD.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F68/NGG6/GEG58KKY/F68NGG6GEG58KKY.LARGE.jpg)

Once everything was glued up and looking good, it was time for the varnish. I
used some (http://cdn.instructables.com/F2I/9SOY/GEI9CRZ6/F2I9SOYGEI9CRZ6.LARGE.jpg)
spar varnish and gave the bike 3 coats.
Assemble the bike. I ended up putting the rear brake below the frame because I
didn't want any cables running along the top of the bike. It's far from ideal
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FC6/0ZAJ/GEG5878C/FC60ZAJGEG5878C.LARGE.jpg)
though. If I can get my hands on a free or almost free rear disc brake set, I'll
install it, but for now this will do. For the front derailleur I drilled a small hole
behind the bottom bracket to run the cable thru. It attaches to the bottom pull
derailleur.
That's it. It's actually a lot stiffer than I anticipated, but it's a good ride. I don't ride
a whole lot, but it will work for what I do, either riding thru the desert or on the
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FM4/ZIQT/GEG586ND/FM4ZIQTGEG586ND.LARGE.jpg)
canals or down
to the local bar (and walk it back of course). I'm pretty gentle
with it, but I've gone up and down curbs slowly. When you build your own bike
be prepared for it to break at any moment until it's been thoroughly tested and
visually inspect it from time to time. I've only taken it out a couple times and I'll

I Made it!

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get more aggressive on it in time. I'll update this instructable if anything breaks. I
got a couple looks from people who notice bikes, but a majority of people it
seems see it as just another bike on the road.
There are a couple fills in the bike where I had to add thickened epoxy, but it's
not too noticeable. You can probably spot them in some of the photos. The
frame by itself weighs about 6.8 pounds and all together it is 32 lbs. Anyway, I
wish you the best of luck if you decide to build something like this!
Update: I broke the seat tube just above the frame when I went to a shorter seat
post. It didn't go far enough into the seat tube, so it was weaker. I redid the top
of the seat tube so it is stronger now and use a longer seat post. Also the bottom
bracket shell broke free and started sliding left and right. I was able to reset it
with gorilla glue and it seems fine now. Finally I replaced the rear side pull brake
with a center pull calliper brake. The side pull was uncomfortably close to the
crank arms.

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HanzieO (/member/HanzieO/)

3 years ago

Reply

Hi, nice work with your bike. I am halfway with making a similar bike and I will
instructable as soon as im done. This will be my second wood bike
the first one is like a junk yard recumberant. See the foto below. I really like
your bike and admire the workmanship. I will add a bit more steel to my bike
coz I like the industrial look and I am a metal worker at heart. I used a jig for
the laminating and both halves come out of the clamps tonight.

post and
(/member/HanzieO/)

Does it still go?

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FGE/JHVL/GMX1Q31L/FGEJHVLGMX1Q31L.LARGE.jpg)

LongToe (/member/LongToe/) (author)

HanzieO

3 years ago

Reply

Cool man, I can't wait to see your instructable. Your recumbent looks
it still works but I broke off the seat clamp when I used a
seat post that was too short. That's a place where steal would work
better. Good luck with your build!

great. Yep
(/member/LongToe/)

HanzieO (/member/HanzieO/)

LongToe

http://www.instructables.com/id/Wood-Bike-2/
(/member/HanzieO/)

mr-motorvator (/member/mr-motorvator/)

3 years ago

Reply

4 years ago

Reply

The loops make the whole bike strong and selective use of metalwork keeps
the slender look. The bike design you mentioned is spoiled by the box for the
(/member/mrmotorvator/)seatpost.
Have you seen the Pashley Tuberider? It is a great looker. I fitted mine out
with a motor system driving the chainwheel. Pashleys all have hub brakes, so
motorising them is a challenge. Photos as www.mr-motorvator.co.uk

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F7N/JX98/GEQQOA8C/F7NJX98GEQQOA8C.LARGE.jpg)

randomray (/member/randomray/)

4 years ago

Reply

Excellent build and very helpful instructable ! A few suggestions and thoughts .
jig to clamp the wood to will make this project much easier . You
really don't need the fiberglass between the layers of plywood ." it'll be lighter
and it's plenty strong without the glass " An outside rated wood glue would be
plenty strong , then coat the outside with epoxy and glass " it'll be a lighter bike
". Leave the seat tube on the bottom bracket , run the tube through the holes
in your wood frame epoxy it in then leaving a short section at the top and
bottom cut out the center section and connect those pieces by wrapping with
several layers of veneer . Or just cover it with veneer . I would take the donor
headset and just cover it with veneer after installing it . If you wanted you could
take 1/4" strips of wood with the grain running the length of the bike instead of
the plywood and it would be far stronger . Hickory , ash , sitka spruce and
white oak would work great . Mix in other woods for cool patterns and colors .
Once again great job , now I'm going go build my own thanks to you . Do a
search for wood bikes on Flickr there are some cool ones out there .

A simple
(/member/randomray/)

LongToe (/member/LongToe/) (author)

randomray

4 years ago

Reply

Thanks, those are some good ideas. If you make your bike, you should
instructable or post it online somewhere.

make an
(/member/LongToe/)

rowerwet (/member/rowerwet/)

4 years ago

Reply

great i'ble! I really want to make my own now!

stand point would it be better to have the pedals mounted inside
the frame rather than outside? that way the force you put onto the pedals
(downward) would be pushing against the frame rather than pulling.
I also have built ply and epoxy boats taking the construction to bikes makes
sense.
If you used west system epoxy let http://www.epoxyworks.com/ know and they
could make an article out of it, in fact they have an article about epoxy and
wood bikes in it this issue.

from a stress
(/member/rowerwet/)

LongToe (/member/LongToe/) (author)

rowerwet

4 years ago

Reply

Thanks! You're right, I'm not crazy about hanging the crank below the
I thought putting it inside would make it too high. This design
could probably be reworked for a better or cleaner looking crank mount
either inside or laminated into the frame itself.

frame, but
(/member/LongToe/)

scraptopower (/member/scraptopower/)

4 years ago

This is awesome! 5* and my vote!

(/member/scraptopower/)

Is this springy to ride ?

LongToe (/member/LongToe/) (author)

scraptopower

Reply

4 years ago

Reply

Thanks. No, it's not very springy, but I'm kinda a light weight. It might
be a different story though for a big dude.
(/member/LongToe/)

dbell (/member/dbell/)

LongToe

4 years ago

Reply

I'm not a bike builder, so may be talking out my butt here, but from a
point of view, you have assembled a very rigid frame, and it
wouldn't have much spring to it.

structural
(/member/dbell/)

How would it work if the seat tube passed through a sleeve set into the
top tube/seat stay arc, rigidly attached only at the bottom bracket?
Dave

LongToe (/member/LongToe/) (author)

dbell

4 years ago

Reply

That sounds pretty cool. It would really act like a spring then. Someday
make a bouncy bike and really exaggerate the vertical spring.
This bike is a little more practical.

I'd like to
(/member/LongToe/)

legamin (/member/legamin/)

10 months ago

Reply

as a wood purist, I think I 'wood' have steered well clear of using any
As well, I noted that you were using materials of varying strengths
that is a practice rarely recommended for longevity. Wood with two part
laminating glue and thinner veneer (should you try this again) will give you
amazing visuals and a longer lasting end product. I'm only saying this from a
static materials strengths professional. I do tend to over engineer my designs.
I'm impressed with your product! I think the concept is inspired! I'd have you on
my ideas team any day!

(/member/legamin/)
fiberglass.

LongToe (/member/LongToe/) (author)

legamin

10 months ago

Reply

Thanks! There's another instructable that did something similar to what

describing. http://www.instructables.com/id/Wood-Bike-2/

you are
(/member/LongToe/)

niallthemagicone (/member/niallthemagicone/)

1 year ago

Reply

2 years ago

Reply

amazing yes
(/member/niallthemagicone/)

srichie (/member/srichie/)

I'm a bit confused about the frame. I see you've listed the materials that its
of, but i'm still not sure what the frame is... So the plywood is just a
veneer, or outer layer? And structurally its mostly fiberglass? Has there been
any stress tests done on the frame?

made
(/member/srichie/)

LongToe (/member/LongToe/) (author)

srichie

2 years ago

Reply

The frame is 7 layers of 1/8" plywood with fiberglass sandwiched

each layer. I have no idea what loads it can support. Ride at
your own risk.

between
(/member/LongToe/)

EvoQ (/member/EvoQ/)

2 years ago

Reply

I think you did a wonderful job on a first prototype. And just think you have
allot of people to do the same. that is what life is all about my friend.

inspired
(/member/EvoQ/)

Thnxx for sharing.

LongToe (/member/LongToe/) (author)

Thanks!

EvoQ

2 years ago

Reply

2 years ago

Reply

(/member/LongToe/)

CryoFireProductions (/member/CryoFireProductions/)

I have one question. How light is the bike? I'd think it'd be lighter then your
average frame.
(/member/CryoFireProductions/)

LongToe (/member/LongToe/) (author)

CryoFireProductions
2 years ago

Reply

2 years ago

Reply

The frame by itself weighs about 6.8 pounds and all

together it is 32 lbs.
(/member/LongToe/)

altomic (/member/altomic/)

say, could you make the Bottom Bracket and Seat Tube in one piece.
(/member/altomic/)

That is the seat tube is welded to the bottom bracket - to make a "T".
you then have 2 holes in the bike frame for the seat tube to go through (from
the bottom to the top) yeah?
the seat tube and bottom bracket are metal and covered in the veneer once
inserted into the bike frame.
it would give the bottom bracket strength and you wouldn't have to have the
stuff around it to hold it in place.

LongToe (/member/LongToe/) (author)

altomic

2 years ago

Reply

Good idea. HanzieO did something similar to what you described on

http://www.instructables.com/id/Wood-Bike-2/
(http://www.instructables.com/id/Wood-Bike-2/)

his version.
(/member/LongToe/)

thirst4know (/member/thirst4know/)

2 years ago

Reply

Nice design. A few improvements could produce a bike that will last a lifetime.
rust either! Great lines on your bike.

Hardly any
(/member/thirst4know/)

LongToe (/member/LongToe/) (author)

thirst4know

2 years ago

Reply

2 years ago

Reply

Thanks!
(/member/LongToe/)

yoyology (/member/yoyology/)

That is a beautiful object. The fact that it's a functioning bicycle as well makes
more astounding. Well done, sir!

it even
(/member/yoyology/)

I see that you posted this a couple of years ago. Have you made another since
then? I'd love to see an update.

LongToe (/member/LongToe/) (author)

yoyology

2 years ago

Reply

Thank you. I would like to build a beach cruiser version, but haven't
to it yet. One of these days.

gotten around
(/member/LongToe/)

savant77 (/member/savant77/)

3 years ago

Reply

Awesome build man, great details, well placed photos and not perfect. So
put up perfectly executed ibles that you know it was really thier
2nd or 3rd attempt. I personally don't mind the twine BB, whatever works, only
time will tell if it holds up and since it's wood, just rebuild it stronger. I'm also
impressed with the weight, I just built a cargo hauler based on a steel big store
box bike that came out to 12 lbs! Do not put wood forks on if you like your front

many people
(/member/savant77/)

teeth!

ac-dc (/member/ac-dc/)

4 years ago

Reply

... another project inspiring people to make a bike that can get them hurt or
fail and with

killed if they use it. Nifty idea, but, even professionally made bikes
(/member/acdc/) luck people should not get hurt just to have some novelty item.

If it were the other way around, if for some odd reason bikes were made out of
plywood and someone suggested a STRONGER, BETTER frame from metal
tubing I would applaud but this kind of suggestion that puts people at risk is
very irresponsible. I propose some industry standards and laws that hold
bicycle frames to standards for durability a bit like car crash tests and roadworthy regulations.
You only have one body and one life kids, please think before endangering it.

voyageur10 (/member/voyageur10/)

ac-dc

3 years ago

Reply

You have got to be kidding me... This is a great project, I'm sorry you
the value of it.

don't see
(/member/voyageur10/)

shoehornteeth (/member/shoehornteeth/)

ac-dc

4 years ago

Reply

Bicycles can cause you to get hurt or killed. Even professionally made
propose we outlaw all bicycles. Then no one will ever be
injured or die.

bikes fail. I
(/member/shoehornteeth/)

But seriously, I'd trust a plywood frame made to my own high standards
to a cheap metal frame made by the lowest bidder.

ac-dc (/member/ac-dc/)

shoehornteeth

4 years ago

Reply

I propose we require any bicycle ridden on the road to be tested for

road-worthiness. If you want to ride your one-off homemade bike which
(/member/acdc/) is supposedly, and I mean supposedly because if you don't test your
claim you are just making up nonsense, made to relevant higher
standards, then by all means ride it only on your own private property
so in the event of failure you are not risking others in public.
The same applies for bicycle helmets, if you want to make one out of
string and glue I would say it is a bad idea no matter how great you
think it is, that testing to ensure it is safe is important, that no
suggestion to make one should occur without the testing being
stressed as the most important thing.
Realize the difference, that what you do in private to risk your own
health and well-being is different than trying to encourage someone
else to do it.

boaslad (/member/boaslad/)

ac-dc

4 years ago

Reply

Did you even READ this article before you started farting on it? Did you
advice on construction technique? Did you even realize that
the method this bike is made with is almost identical to the modern
method used in the construction of wooden re-curve bows (archery)
which by the way FAR out perform (both in accuracy and durability)
metal versions of the same design ?

read his
(/member/boaslad/)

I realize that an amateur wood worker would probably botch the job
resulting in an unsafe and unreliable product... Having said that allow
me to also mention that MOST amateur wood workers would realize
that a project of this magnitude would be beyond their ability. But even
if they DO attempt it and FAIL as haniously as you seem to think they
will, they will have only hurt themselves.
You also overlook one very crucial detail. Failure is the only true road
to success. The Wright brothers made over 20 designs before they
made one that flew. NASA blew up countless rockets before landing a

man on the moon. The Tacoma Narrows Bridge collapse has taught a
whole new generation of engineers how NOT to build a bridge. Failure
is life's greatest teacher. Do people get hurt in the process,? Hopefully
not. But yes sometimes they do. In the end they KNEW it was a risk.
But it was a risk THEY CHOSE to take.
As far as road worthiness... If this was motorcycle or a car or some
other vehicle that achieved terminal velocities I would be more inclined
to agree with you. But as some one who has crashed literally thousand
of times on bicycles (usually doing something that my mother would
rather not know about) I don't. I have had many of your beloved steel
and chrome alloy frames snap under me. and guess what... I survived.
And with all my limbs still attached, too.

paganwonder (/member/paganwonder/)

ac-dc

4 years ago

Reply

Bike helmets = false sense of security= unrealized risk taking. Check

helmets don't actually prevent the most devastating
aspect of head injury. More to the point- where will the Nanny State
end? Probably in "1984".

out the research(/member/paganwonder/)

"Life is a terminal, sexually transmitted condition and no one gets out

alive!" And sadly- so few actually Live!

Rahdzhillaxxx (/member/Rahdzhillaxxx/)

ac-dc

4 years ago

Reply

I meet your proposal of road worthiness testing and raise you a walking
that enforces sturdy shoes knee-pads and helmet. Oh and
a mouth guard. Seat belts for recliner chairs and thick gloves for
handling hot coffee.
And for the sake of being nice I'll encourage courage and applaud the
sharing of knowledge and the attempt at sharing wisdom.
Oh and helmets for bicycles would have gotten a kid pounded by all the
other kids back when I was a young little monster with my extra set of
forks pounded on and half the bolts cross threaded while using a four
foot board across a stack of tires for a ramp. We used to throw bikes
together from piles of trashed bikes and play chicken till someone
ended up with a broken collar bone and went home to momma then did
it again the next day. And the next and the next. I remember two kids
dying while growing up. one was a hemophiliac that got talked into
jumping off a bridge thirty feet into shallow water, bled to death
internally. And the other tried to imitate a circus stunt and ended up
accidentally hanging himself. ages 15 and 12. were both avoidable?
perhaps, but I do believe they were a bit inevitable too. Fate will decide
and Darwin will point and say "I told you so" So live life and enjoy it till it
ends because you never know when it will.

requirement
(/member/Rahdzhillaxxx/)

janettetsmith (/member/janettetsmith/)

ac-dc

4 years ago

Reply

Dang dad, you're just preachin' all over the place. One of the beautiful
living in America is that we get to make decisions for
ourselves on many levels. @shoehornteeth can make them for himself,
you can make them for yourself and I can make them for myself. It's
quite a wonderful concept; one, considering your need to determine our
IQ and decide what we should do or not, you might not actually know
about. I don't know about @shoehornteeth, but the last time I checked,
you were not my father. Even though your assessment determined I
was not all that smart, I know you are not my father because my father
doesn't feel the need to constantly tell people how they should behave
or what they should think. FYI ... my IQ is 144.

things about
(/member/janettetsmith/)

shoehornteeth (/member/shoehornteeth/)

janettetsmith 4 years ago

Reply

That sure was a convoluted reply. I reread it twice, and I still can't tell if
with me. Just to clarify, I was being sarcastic when I
said bicycles should be outlawed. My opinion is that detailed
descriptions/instructions on how this wooden bicycle was built are
appropriate for this website.

you're agreeing
(/member/shoehornteeth/)

janettetsmith (/member/janettetsmith/)

shoehornteeth

4 years ago

Reply

Oh, sorry about that. No, I agree with you. It's bugs me when
they must preach here because preaching to you or me
or anyone has nothing to do with, for this instructable, building a bike.
@ac-dc can raise kids, within the law, however they want and choose
never to go around a lumber. I knew your comment was sarcastic. :)

someone feels
(/member/janettetsmith/)

I like to read the comments or get ideas. I was an adult the last time I
looked, so I get to make my decisions. I even get to eat my dessert
first if I feel like. Therefore, as an adult, I don't want to weed through
the comments of a self-appointed supervisor trying to make everyone
do what they want, arg.
I'm kind of embarrassed because now I think I have amassed more
comments than @ac-dc. :/

shoehornteeth (/member/shoehornteeth/)

ac-dc

4 years ago

Reply

No one is encouraging you to make your own bike. In fact, you

trust yourself to make anything for yourself. Do you
have the proper means to test that sandwich for pathogens? No? Don't
eat it! If you get sick, you could cause others around you to get sick
too. Better leave food prep for the professionals.
Realize the difference? If no one ever made things for themselves or
tried different materials or different designs, no progress would ever be
made. There is an inherent risk in every activity. No one is telling you to
take this risk. And if my frame has a catastrophic failure, then I'm the
only one who pays the price.

probably shouldn't
(/member/shoehornteeth/)

Transquesta (/member/Transquesta/)

ac-dc

4 years ago

Reply

Great. Just what we need. MORE government regulation to stifle

initiative/creativity.
(/member/Transquesta/)
News flash, people: LIFE is risky no matter what you do. You can
choose to live it or to spend your time on this earth in complete misery
worrying constantly about the countless ways you might get hurt.

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