Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Buying House: The Garment sector operates through a chain of mediator and subcontractors.
The work orders are mediated and subcontracted through national and international
Buying Houses. In Bangladesh there are approximately 431 Buying Houses out of them
388 owns by local and rest 43 owns by foreign.
Types of products produced by the Garments Factories: Factories produce three types of products
1. Knit Wear: - Blouses, T-Shirts, Under Wear, Night Dress and Gown.
2. Woven Wear Products: - Shirts, Trousers and other woven product.
3. Sweaters and Jackets.
No of Garments Industries in Bangladesh: During 1976-1977 a Garman entrepreneur took the initiative to install a few export
oriented Garments industries in Bangladesh. There were only three factories exporting
Garment during the beginning in 1977- 1978. By 2005 the number of Garments factories
in Bangladesh increase to 3900 factories. The no of garments factories in Dhaka and
Chittagong are approximately 2850 and 646 respectively.
No of Workers in Bangladeshi Garments: The estimate no of employers in the export oriented garments industry is around 1.5
million people, primarily younger women. When the domestic industries and Textile
industries that support it are also taken in to considerations employment in this sector
exceed 10 million people.
In Which Countries Bangladesh Export Garments: The distribution of clothing exports among USA, European Union and rest of the world.
Bangladesh relies heavily on the United States and European Union for exporting
clothing exports. The shares of United State and European Union fluctuate a great deal.
Sample Types:
1. Fitting Sample: - Measurement +style must be accurate( shade+fabric
structure+gsm may not be important )
2. Styling sample :- Measurement +style must be accurate( shade+fabric
structure+gsm may not be important )
Lead Time- the time between placing the order to shipment time
Merchandising
Department
Production
Department
Marketing
Cutting
Section
Procurement
Section
Sewing
Section
Sample
Section
Finishing
Section
SubContract
Section
Maintenance
Section
Commercial
Department
Administrative/
Human Resource
Quality
Department
Export
and
Import
Section
Information
System
Auditor
Recruitment
and Career
Development
Line Q/C
EPB,
BGMEA
and
Banking
Training
Compliance
Inventory
Management
Work-
study
Workers
Welfare
Committ
ee
Function of a Production Manager: Production Manager is the head of the production department. He is only one who takes
all the decisions in the development of desired requirement of the Buyers. He takes all the
decision in the decision making table.
His main job may be divided in to planning and coordinating function.
Planning:
Coordinating: He coordinates with the supportive departments for the smooth flow of the production
process. He always tries to make continuous flow of the materials so that the production
should not be hampered and to reduce the overhead cost.
He coordinates with the following department: Merchandising department for spec sheet and comments form the buyer. The
sample and remarks if any, supply of material on time.
Wear houses for continuous flow of the materials on time as per requirement.
Commercial department foe information of shipment.
Human Resources department for skilled manpower.
Sample Garment Making Sequence: Original Garment/ Picture form Spec Sheet
Approved
Problem:
Sewing Problem
Fabric Problem
Style Problem
Hairiness of Fabric
Shading or Shade Variation
Length or Chest Variation
Fabric Flaws_ Knots, Stain, Broken and Loop
GSM Variation
Shrinkage, Spirality.
Color Fastness to
-Washing
-Rubbing (dry/ wet)
-Ironing
-Perspiration
-Acidic and Alkaline
-Light
-Water
Sew ability.
Bulk or Production Garment Manufacturing Sequence: Original Garment (Sketen form Spec Sheer)
Pattern Making for Sample
Sample Making
Pattern Making for Bulk Production (Based on
the comments form Sample garment)
Marker Making (Manually or Automatic)
Spreading
Cutting
Sorting or Bundling of Garments Panel
Sewing
Finishing (Ironing or Poly Packing)
Pre- Inspection by Local Merchandiser
Merchandiser
Final- Inspection
Buyer
Third Party
Approved by Buyer
Not Approved
Sorting of Reject
Garments
Inspection
Cartooning
Garment ready for
Shipment
Marker Making: Marker making or Marking is the process of transferring the pattern to the fabric or paper.
In apparel production Marker marking a paper marker, which is a particular spread or lay
made for a specific style and fabric, generally does making.
It can have one or more size or on it. Arranging the pattern sections manually or on a
computer with a CAD program can make it.
Marker making is one of the most important operations in apparel production because the
marker determining how many fabrics will be used.
A separate Marker is made for every material used in style. The main fabric/ Self/ Shell/
material lining the interlining and any trim fabrics. Whether the Markers are made
manually or by computer, the goal is to create a tight marker with little space between the
components.
Aplic = Additional Fabric
Spreading: Sometimes called Stacking up or Laying up the cut. Spreading is the process of stacking
the material one layer on the top of another to create a lay. Whether done manually or
with a Spreader, it is a slow and time-consuming process. Because it must be done
precisely to avoid fabric waste and to ensure that the plies are aligned so the parts can be
cut accurately.
The lay can be a single ply of fabric or several hundred plies. The no of plies depend on
many factors, such as equipment available, the skill of the Cutter, the thickness and
slipperiness of the material, the total no of garments to be cut, the no of garments to be
cut in to the lay, the company policy and standards for quality.
The higher of the lay is generally no more than few inches, because fall lays are more
likely to shift on till and be cut in accurately.
Cutting: Cutting means to cut out the garments pieces form lays of fabric with the help of the
marker that is placed on the top ply of the lay.
This is the major operation in the cutting room when the spread fabric is cut in to
garments of all the operation is the cutting room. This is the most important because once
the fabric has been cut, very little can be done to rectify serious mistakes.
Cutting equipment ranges form manual to computer-controlled machines that use laser
beams. One of the most common cutting machines is the Portable Electric Straight Blade
Knife. But round blade knives dies are also used.
Sorting/ Marking
T- Shirt: The term T-Shirt is used generally for the casual tops with a narrow neckline, short sleeve
and no collar usually made fore cotton.
T-Shirts are multifunctional garments worm by all ages groups as under wear and
outerwear. T- Shirts are simply structured garments that consist of a front and back or
body, sleeves, neckline treatment, a few style may have a pocket. They are basic control
colored garments. Out wear T- Shirts may have neckline variation, pockets, fashion fit,
trims or applied design to add fashion, functional use and aesthetic appeal.
Neckline styling may include Turtleneck, Round neck and V- neck etc.
The Polo-Shirt
The Polo-Shirt is similar to a shirt that is made form fabric must having collar and a
short button placket. It can have either short or long sleeve.
Sweat Shirt: A long sleeve warm shirt with a waistband is called Sweat Shirt. The inside is often
fleecy. There are many possible collars and neckline.
Pull- Over/ Jumper/ Sweater: The Pullover is a knitted top with sleeves and a waistband and is put on over the head.
Tank Top: The Tank Top is a sleeveless Pullover (High GSM/ knitted garment + Low GSM), which
is worm over a Blouse or Shirt.
Cardigan: Cardigans are open the front and are fastened with a Zip or Buttons. They usually have a
waistband.
Twin Set: A combination of a classic Pullover or Tank top with Cardigan for
woman.Nape: - The back part of the neck.
Girth: - The measurement around something.
Ankle: - The joint connecting the foot to the leg.
Seat: - Part of the body on which a person sits.
Chest: - The top part of the front of the body between the neck and the stomach.
Heel: - The back part of the foot below the ankle.
Thigh: - The top part of the leg between the knee and the hip.
Stature: - Form the vertex of the head perpendicularly to the floor.
Pattern Constructions:
Pattern represents the two-dimensional component parts of a garment. They are used as a
geode for cutting the fabric. Which when sewn together to forms a three-dimensional
garment. The creation of these patterns is the technique of pattern construction.
Pattern construction is a part of the garments design process and product development.
The pattern can also be considered as a foundation for garment production. Body
measurement is a precondition to pattern construction. The size and fit of a garment
depends upon their accuracy.
Methods of Body measurement:
1) Taking body measurement manually.
2) Computerized measuring system.
1) Manual measuring requires a high degree if skill and time-consuming. The person
being measured should feel at ease and be relaxed. He should be removed thick outer
garments and only wear the under clothes to be worn beneath the garments to be made.
The person being measured should stand normally and evenly on both feet, with relaxed
shoulders, arms hanging at either side and head erect.
Equipment used:
1)
2)
3)
4)
Measuring tape
Meter rule
Mirror
Record sheet.
Measurement:
1) OA
OB
(O-1) = Arm hole
(O-2) =waist
(O-3) =shirt length
(O-9) = Arm hole *1/5+2 cm
()-7) = neck *1/5 -0.5 cm
(7-8) =4.5
(9-10) =1/2 Back +4cm
(10-14) = 10 cm
(12 13) = .75
(10 15) = 0.75
(1-4) = Chest +12 cm
(1-24) =1/3 Chest +4.5 cm
(1 -16) = (1/2 Chest +12 cm)
(20-23) = (8-13) +0.5 cm
(5-19) = 4.5 cm
(19-20) = Neck *1/5 -1 cm
(19-21) = Neck*1/5 -2.5 cm
(10 - 22) = 1.5
(20 23) = (8-13) + 0.5
(21-27) = 1.5 cm
(27-28) = 3.5 cm
Sleeve:
Information:
Arm hole circumference = 42 cm
Upper arm girth = 30 cm
Sleeve length = 80 cm
Wrist girth = 16 cm
A
B
F
Measurement:
Here,
ABCD is a
Where,
AB= Sleeve length
Add:
A, G is a gust like a curve & G, F is a straight line.
Cuff: Information:
Cuff length = 23 cm
Cuff depth = 4 cm
E
D
Here,
ABCD is a
Where,
AB= Cuff length + 4 cm
BC= (Cuff depth *2) +2 cm
E, F mid point of AD & BC respectively
Add,
E, F with dotted line, this is fold line.
F
C
PATTERN OF A COLLAR: K
I
C
Marker making
Marker: A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for a specific style and
the size to be cut from a single spread.
Marker Making
Size of garments
Length of Marker
Pattern Engineering
Characteristic of Fabric
Marker Making procedure
Marker Width
Type of Garments
Grain Line
Characteristics of garments
Cutting quality
Production planning
Marker Making: It is the process of determining the most efficient lag out of the pattern pieces for a
specified style, fabric and distribution of size.
Types of Marker Making: Markers may be made by manually on to fabric or paper or by manipulating
computerized pattern image.
Manually Marker Making: This type of marker may be created by arranging full size pattern pieces on marker paper
or directly on the top ply of the fabric in spread.
Pattern pieces are traced using a pencil or tailoring chalk. Manual method of marker
making is time consuming and requires a great deal of spec. Full size pieces must be
manipulated, adjusted and readjusted on normal fabric width.
Accuracy of a manually made marker depends on the skill of the individual who laid out
the marker and traced out.
Computerized Marker Making: It is more accurate and provides the greatest opportunity for pattern manipulation, marker
efficiency, reuse of previously made markers and shortest response time.
Production patterns may be developed on the computer and /or Scanned in to the
computer. In addition, parameters for markers are entered in to the computer from,
cutting orders. These might include style numbers, size distribution and fabric width.
Once markers have been planned and solved, they can be printed or recalled and
modified for new cutting orders.
With newer marker-making software, markers can be automatically created. A computer
can automatically develop up to seven different patterns according to the criteria set by a
technician.
Automated marker making may be used to determine yardage requirements and fabric
costs from designs prior to the line adoption.
With automatic marker making a 50 pieces marker can be generated on the computer
screen in less than a minute.
Marker Efficiency: The ratio of total surface area of the pattern pieces is compared to the total area of the
marker expressed as a percentage is called marker efficiency.
Factors Affecting Marker Efficiency: 1) Marker Maker: If he is efficient, technically qualified, lot of experience. Then he can produce very
effective marker.
2) Garment size:
If we can include more no of sizes of pattern in the marker, then marker efficiency would
be increased.
3) Pattern engineering:
Changing the design of pattern we can increase the efficiency of marker. e.g. by
folding of pattern.
4) Fabric characteristics:
Symmetric fabric more efficiency & asymmetric fabric less efficiency.
5) Methods of marker making:
Manually made marker less efficiency & automatic made marker more efficiency.
6) Width of the fabric:
High fabric width high efficiency & low fabric width less fabric width.
7) Types of order:
In order contains different sizes of garments, and then we will get more efficiency to
produce a marker.
Spreading
Requirements of fabric spreading:
Alignment of fabric ply:
Fabric spreading is done according to length and width of marker. Every ply should
comprise at least width of the marker plan but should have the minimum possible extra
outside those measurements. The nature of the textile materials vary in width. The marker
plan is made to fit the narrowest width. The accuracy in this alignment could mean the
plies do not cover the whole area of the marker plan and parts of some patterns pieces
would be missing when cut if the width is not proper.
Correct ply tension:
The ply tension should be proper. If the tension is low, there will be ridges in the plies
and if the tension is too high, the fabric may shrink after cutting and sewing. Spreading if
done in spreading machine, it gives uniform tension.
Fabric must be flat:
It should be maintained carefully. Operator must pay attention so that there is no wrinkle
during fabric spreading. If any wrinkle in flat table, the winkle is eliminated by air flow.
If the wrinkle is not removed the panels of garments may be faulty.
Elimination of fabric flaws:
The flaws of fabric must be indicated during spreading and necessary steps to be taken to
remove these faults. It is the duty of the operator. There are many ways by which we can
eliminate the fabric flaws. Splicing is one of them. It can be done in two ways: one is by
giving indication in the marker and other is by overlapping the fabric. Sometimes metal
tape is attached to indicate the flaw of the fabric. The flaws can be easily identified by the
computer and the length of the computer and the length of splicing can also be measured
by this technique.
Correct ply direction and lay stability:
These two factors must be considered together. They depend on fabric type, pattern shape
and spreading equipments that are available. When the pattern pieces have been
positioned in a particular direction in the marker plan, it is the essential that the fabric is
spreading according the direction.
Effects of the surface design or fabric construction, problems of instability with pile
surface can have impacts on spreading. Symmetrical patterns pieces are placed in the
same way up or face to face. If the fabric or patterns are asymmetrical, the fabric is
spreaded either up or facing down.
Elimination of static electricity:
If spreading is done by manmade fabrics, static electricity may generate. It can be
eliminated by reducing friction or increasing humidity of the room. Earthling facility can
be provided with the lay to reduce static electricity generation.
Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles:
The size of cut lay into bundles of fabric depends on the height of fabric lays. Sometimes,
displacing icon is used to prevent the shade variation during spreading. For this reason;
some low priced color papers are used in the fabric plies to displace. It helps each bundle
to prevent shade variation for displacing. It also helps to catch the slippery fabrics lays
during spreading. Generally, the colored papers are rough in surface.
Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting:
The heat generates when the fabrics lays are cut by using cutting knife due to the friction
generating between fabrics and knife. Generally, those fabrics are melted due to heat
generation to the fabrics lays which are made by thermoplastic fibres. As a result, there is
possibility of polymer bidding by joining together and also difficult to separate patterns.
To prevent this defect, some anti-fusion papers are used with the gaps of fabrics plies
during spreading. The papers contain lubricating matters so that knife is lubricated during
cutting. As a result, there is less possibility of friction to generate heat and also less
possibility of fusing fabrics.
Avoidance of distortion in spread:
There is a great possibility of forming crease or fold of fabric plies due to the friction in
the bottom of lay by base plate of knife during cutting with straight knife or shifting of
fabric lay. As a result, defected pattern may be made. To remove this defect, fabric lay is
made on the smooth paper so that, there is less possibility of friction between fabric and
table.
Matching checks and stripes:
It must be remembered that, the matching of fabric if it is striped or checked should be
correct during the spreading of one ply on the other for making fabric lay. Also marker
planning should be done by matching with stripe or check of fabric. And the matching
may be warp way or weft way as required.
A Term of Sale where the seller pays the costs and freight necessary to bring the
goods to the named port of destination, Terms of Sale but the risk of loss of or
damage to the goods, as (continued) well as any additional costs due to events
occurring after the time the goods have been delivered on board the vessel, is
transferred from the seller to the buyer when the goods pass the ship's rail in the
port of shipment. The CFR term requires the seller to clear the goods for export.
Carriage and
Insurance Paid
To [...Named
Place of
Destination]
(CIP)
A Term of Sale which means the seller has the same obligations as under CPT, but
with the addition that the seller has to procure cargo insurance against the buyer's
risk of loss of or damage to the goods during the carriage. The seller contracts for
insurance and pays the insurance premium. The buyer should note that under the
CIP term the seller is required to obtain insurance only on minimum coverage. The
CIP term requires the seller to clear the goods for export.
Cost, Insurance
and Freight
[...Named Place
of Destination]
(CIF)
A Term of Sale where the seller has the same obligations as under the CFR but also
has to procure marine insurance against the buyer's risk of loss or damage to the
goods during the carriage. The seller contracts for insurance and pays the insurance
premium. The CIF term requires the seller to clear the goods for export.
C&F"cargo and A term of sale meaning "cargo and freight" whereby Seller pays for cost of goods
freight
and freight charges up to destination port
Free On Board
(FOB)
An International Term of Sale that means the seller fulfills his or her obligation to
deliver when the goods have passed over the ship's rail at the named port of
shipment. This means that the buyer has to bear all costs and risks to loss of or
damage to the goods from that point. The FOB term requires the seller to clear the
goods for export.
Letter of Credit A document, issued by a bank per instructions by a buyer of goods, authorizing the
(L/C)
seller to draw a specified sum of money under specified terms, usually the receipt
by the bank of certain documents within a given time.
lead time
Pro Forma
Invoice
Quota
The quantity of goods that may be imported without restriction during a set period
of time.
Quotation
Bill of Lading
A transportation document that is the contract of carriage containing the terms and
conditions between the shipper and carrier.
Container
A truck trailer body that can be detached from the chassis for loading into a vessel,
a rail car or stacked in a container depot. Containers may be ventilated, insulated,
refrigerated, flat rack, vehicle rack, open top, bulk liquid or equipped with interior
devices.
Consignee
The party to whom goods are shipped and delivered. The receiver of a freight
shipment.
Consignor
The party who originates a shipment of goods (shipper). The sender of a freight
shipment, usually the seller.
Bar code
Customs
Government agency charged with enforcing the rules passed to protect the
country's import and export revenues.
Invoice
A bill of goods shipped to a buyer, stating quantities, prices, shipping charges, etc.
and showing the amount owed to a creditor.
Irrevocable
Letter of credit in which the specified payment is guaranteed by the bank if all
Letter of Credit terms and conditions are met by the drawee and which cannot be revoked without
joint agreement of both the buyer and the seller.
Issuing bank
Bank that opens a straight or negotiable letter of credit and assumes the obligation
to pay the bank or beneficiary if the documents presented are in accordance with
shipment
The tender of one lot of cargo at one time from one shipper to one consignee on
one bill of lading.
Tare Weight
Important terms
Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA)
Ready-made garments (RMG)
Letter of credits (L/C)
Generalized system of preference (GSP)
Bill of lading (B/L)
Inland container depot (ICD)
Free Trade Agreement (FTA).
Least developed countries (LDCs)
Multi-Fibre Agreement (MFA)
World Trade Organization (WTO)
European Union (EU)
Export Promotion Bureau (EPB)
Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA)
Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC)
International Monetary Fund (IMF)
Bangladesh Textiles Mills Association (BTMA)