Interior Row Cover Options for Hoophouses

Interior row covers (also known as floating row covers) provide an extra layer of
insulation for crops grown in the hoophouse during the cooler months. The interior
cover system is comprised of two components: the cover and the frame.
The cover should be removed when the sun is out, and returned back over the plants
when it is cloudy-doing this will help trap in heat from the daytime. There may be
some sunless days when the cover will not need to be removed at all.
Multiple vs. Single Layer: Usually a single layer of covering is used. Some farmers
prefer to use multiple layers of covering. Multiple layers provide additional
insulation, but allow for less light transmission-thus making it imperative that the
cover is removed when it is a sunny day.
Covering height: The frame should hold the cover up about 36"-40" from the ground.
Condensation collects on the cover, and can often freeze at night. Having the cover
up off of the crops eliminates contact between the icy cover and the plants.
Fastening the cover to the frame: The attachment system to hold the cover on the
frame doesnt need to be substantial-clothespins or other clips will work fine.
End pieces: On the ends of the house covering system, extra pieces of material are
hung to cap off the interior row cover. When you are done you should have the
interior cover touching the ground on all four sides of the growing area you are
trying to cover.
Use multiple pieces instead of one large sheet to create a single layer: The
advantage to doing this is that when harvesting one section of the house then you
only have to uncover the certain part of the bed you are working on, instead of
uncovering half of the hoophouse.

Laura Haselhuhn, MSU Department of Horticulture

Option 1: Row Cover with wire frame:

This is an economical option that works very well. Use one layer of lightweight row
cover (.55 oz per sq yard). This cover will provide insulation of about 3-4 degrees.
Hold up the cover with high tensile wire (animal fencing) strung down the length of
the house.
Pros:
-The material is more forgiving if the cover isnt removed from the plants on a sunny
day. This makes it a great choice if you are busy with work on other areas of the farm
or with an off-farm job.
-Inexpensive: For a 30x96 hoophouse estimated cost is $298
$164 for row cover (2 rolls that are 30 x 100 each @ $82)
$12 for wire strainers (4 @ $3 each)
$90 wire (roll comes with 4,000 [extra for other hoophouses/uses on the farm])
$32 t-posts (8 @ $4 each)
Con:
The fabric will typically last 1-3 years, but it tears easily, thus it is not a good choice if
the farm will have many different visitors, volunteers, farm worker, etc pulling on and
off the cover.
For wire set-up: String four wires down the
length of the house. The middle two wires can
attach to T posts just a few feet inside the door,
while the two outer wires may be stretched
end-wall to end-wall. Add tension to the wire
using a fence tensioner or a turnbuckle. Only
attach directly to the end wall if the end wall has
steel end wall framing. If the hoophouse has
wooden end wall framing, attach all wires to tposts instead of the end walls.

Laura Haselhuhn, MSU Department of Horticulture

Option 2: Plastic with PVC or EMT conduit frame:

This is a great option if you have material leftover from covering top of the
hoophouse. This option uses the standard 6 mil 4 year Polyethylene, and a frame
made out of EMT conduit or PVC pipes.
Pro:
-Plastic is more tear resistant than row cover, making it a great choice if you will have
many different volunteers, workers and farm visitors who will be pulling on/off the
cover.
Cons:
-This option is less breathable and is less forgiving on sunny days. The cover must
be removed when the sun is out to avoid condensation build up & extreme
temperatures under the cover.
-More expensive: for a 30 x 96 hoophouse the estimated cost is $515+
$275 Plastic (one 36 x 100 piece)
$200 - EMT Conduit (96-100 10 pieces @ $2 each)
$40.00 Various EMT couplings (estimated 8 boxes @ $4.00-$5.00 each)
For pipe set-up: Use a pipe bender to bend EMT conduit pipes at 90 degree angles
to create the shape pictured in the photo above. Insert conduit ends into the ground.
One option could also be to purchase conduit to go into the ground, then use
conduit as the horizontal part of the frame (as shown above in the photo). Attach
conduit pieces together with couplings to reach across the growing area. If beds are
a great length, you may need an additional vertical EMT conduit to support the
middle. Drape the cover over this frame. Another option would be to use PVC pipe
and connectors to form the frame.

Laura Haselhuhn, MSU Department of Horticulture