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JOHN SMEDLEY

MADE IN GREAT BRITAIN

Product

Proposal

A/W 2015

Andrea Della Mattia

N0567112
Tutor: Jo Orourke

Table of Contents

Fig 1 - The Capsule (Behance, 2012)

04
06
08
12

CustomerProfile

Intro/Aims

Business/Social
EconomicTrends
S.W.O.T

16
18
22
28
32

Trends

ColourPalettes

Collection
RangePlan

CostingSheets

38
40
42
45

Conclusion

ImageReferences

Bibliography

WordCount
PG2

Intro / Aims
Fig 2 - Lea Bridge (Wikimedia, 2010)

History
John Smedley is a brand that
puts heritage into all that
they do. Starting 230 years
ago in 1784 by John Smedley and Peter Nightingale,
The two men constructed a
spinning mill factory in Derbyshire, United Kingdom
that, to this day, still acts as
the main factory for the
brand. As years went on, the
business was passed down
through the Smedley family
who still owns the company.
The brand is known for its
hand finished, fine-gauge
knitwear in luxury materials.
The company continues to
keep with its family culture
and values just as they were
in 1784.

Aims

Quote

If youve can create a wardrobe that is made up of


tried and tested outfits of high quality then potentially you can still be the WWE Champion on a Wednesday night, and look good doing it. Im sure you know
where Im going with this but one of those staple
brands is John Smedley. Theres a reason why theyre
still so highly regarded and prevalent in menswear
stores across the globe, still to this day. Even in 2013
John Smedleys flawless
knitwear can be found on the old boys down the
pub, wearing
the same ensembles as they did back in the 60s

- Matthew Pike

(Buckets and Spades, 2013).

The John Smedley Company has always been a brand


to design with the classic
look and classic feel in
mind. Although this company does have their trend
based pieces, the majority
of our collections are strictly designed for the more
modest and classic look.
The new Autumn/Winter
2015 collection keeps the
John Smedley standard
look but takes inspiration
from the runways and RTW.
Throughout this report,
you will experience the
visions, inspirations, and
pricing of the new collection alongside the
strengths and
weaknesses of the brand
and the business/socioeconomic effects towards the
John Smedley company.

PG4

Customer Profile
Fig 3 - Brand Watch: John Smedley (MFM, nd)

The John Smedley womens consumer is


broken down into three customer
segments.

1st

segment being between the


The
ages of 25-30,

2nd

the
of 30-45,
and the

being the ages

3rd

being 50-65.

This report will only focus on the customer


ages 30-50.

Meet Gemma

.
She is 32 years old. Gemma enjoys exclusivity and hand crafted items when it
comes to her clothing. Her friends and
family describe her style as simplistic,
sophisticated, and timeless. Although her
image is not everything to her, She is willing to spend the money to look as good as
she feels.
John Smedley offers Gemma an extensive
selection of handmade knitwear. With a
broad range of styles and colours, John
Smedley is Gemmas favorite place to shop.

Fig 4 - Miss Universe (Mr Style, 2011)

Demographics
Age:

Income:

30 - 45

37,000 - 40,000

Gender:

Occupation:

Female

Pharmacist, Midwife, Occupational Therapist Owns Home

Family Size:

Education:

1- 4

College or University Graduate

Ethnic Background:
All Ethnic Backgrounds
Home Ownership:

PG6

Business/Social
Economic Trends
Fig 5 -Made in England (John Smedley, 2014)

The Dark Side


of the
Merino Wool Industry
Breeding & Shearing
Merino sheep are selectively bred to produce a
higher bulk of wool, but
because Merino sheep are
not like wild sheep that
shed in the spring, these
animals need to be
sheared.
Unfortunately,
Farmers pay their shearers
by bulk instead of hourly;
these sheep get
treated poorly and get
injured. Flystrike/
Mulesing Flystike is when
Blowflies lay their eggs in
between the wrinkles of a
sheeps skin.

When this occurs, maggots will then feed on


the skin which could
potentially, if untreated, cause death of the
sheep. Mulesing is the
common stoppage of
flystike. This is a series
of surgical deduction
of the sheeps skin.
Although anesthetics
have been approved to
help the pain for the
animals, most countries do not have laws
to enforce the use.
Fig 6 - Down on the farm (Blogspot, 2012)

PG8

New Zealand
addressing
Animal Cruelty

In New Zealand, merino sheep are sheltered


under the 1999 NZ Animal
Welfare Act and the 2005 Animal
Welfare (Painful Husbandry
Procedures) Code of Welfare. These acts and
codes state prohibited chemical mulesing
but allowed surgical mulesing on Merino or
Merino-dominant animals farmed in extensive situations where there [was] high risk of
flystrike and where there [were] no other
effective flystrike preventative measures.
Furthermore, the procedure [had to] be
carried out by competent operators using
clean sharp shears and removing no more
skin than is necessary. However, following
the Australians, the NZ merino industry also
agreed to ban mulesing by the end of 2010,
independent of alternative and regulated
methods of flystrike prevention being made
available by that time. (Anne Galloway,
Design
Culture Lab).
By New Zealand addressing animal cruelty on
a mass scale with emphasis on mulseing and
flystike, this could affect the John Smedley
brand positively. Consumers who are concerned or interested in how the product as a
whole is produced from the very beginning,
they will learn and react to this news with
ease knowing that John Smedley produces
their products with strong precaution and
care from start to finish and abiding by
regulated laws.

Fig 7 - Poetry & Pop Culture (Blogspot, 2013)

The
Luxury
Decline
According to Holly Ellyatt,
Assistant Producer at
CNBC, The luxury market
in 2014 has taken a hit but
has not completely gone
off the radar. According to
the article Luxury goods
and EM: Bruised but not
beaten, a reason as to why
the luxury market is
declining could be based
on the rising level of travellers. The article used the
example of Chinas declining luxury market and
discovered that the rising
level of travelling has been
a great impact.
Ellyatt states

One danger that the luxury


goods sector could face is a
backlash against brands consumers view as not niche
enough. With the increase in
travel leading to an 'education
process' of consumers becoming ever more discriminating,
ubiquity or the perception of
consumers that they are
seeing the same brands and
the same products everywhere became the enemy
[for the luxury sector]. This is
by no means a new theme in
the sector but it is however as
valid as ever.

- Ellyatt 2014, Fortune

According to another article


Easing of US Visas for Chinese Travelers Heralds a
Business Boom by Avery
Booker, nearly 1.8 million
Chinese visited the United
States in 2013 and spent $21
billion dollars. Because of
the booming travelling,
Avery states Last week, US
President Obama
announced the signing of a
reciprocal visa agreement
with China that will increase
the validity of short-term
tourist and business visas
from one to ten years, and
student and exchange visas
from one to five years.
(Booker 2014, Luxury Society).

The luxury decline could


be a potential downfall for
the John Smedley brand. If
travelling means these
customer are in hopes of
finding more niche products, then they will be in
disappointment as John
Smedley is primarily based
online. What is shown on
their online retail shop is
what is sold in their
Brooke Street location in
London. John Smedley
does not tailor to specific
locations or countries.

PG10

SWOT ANALYSIS
Fig 8 - John Smedley Christmas Basket (Pinterest, 2014)

TRENGTHS
Broad range of products
Colour options

EAKNESSES

Lack of brick-and-mortar shops


Branding/Advertising

Online stress-free browsing


Luxury materials
Global presence
Trend based options

Competitors pricing

Brick-and-mortar expansions

Brand recognition

Brand/Advertising

PPERTUNITIES

REATS

PG12

STRENGTHS

WEAKNESSES

Breadth of Range

Lack of Brick-and-Mortar Stores

John Smedleys womens wear category has a broad range of products


including trousers, skirts, cardigans, dresses, jackets, shirts, sweaters, vests,
capes, and an accessory line including scarves, gloves, and briefs. Their
online store now carries 597 items from the above categories

Although John Smedley sells their garments in 29 different


countries, their lack of brick-and-mortar stores is a weakness.

Depth of Range
John Smedleys depth to their range is extensive. Their garments come in
colour combinations of 9-19 with the average piece having 13 options.

Online Stress-Free Browsing

Branding/Advertising
John Smedleys biggest weakness is their branding and advertising. Because of the lacking quality to their branding and
advertising, this allows competitors to reach a larger audience
and gain more brand recognition.

When shopping online, the website makes browsing stress-free to lookup


just the right product for you. The brand lays out the range of clothing in
subheadings including category, collection, style detail, trend, style type,
material, fit, and clearance sale.

Luxury Materials
John Smedley only uses high quality yarns to produce their garments. The
yarns they use consist of merino wool, cotton, cashmere, and silk and
blends of these.

Global Presence
John Smedley has only one retail store on Brooke Street in London,
England. Although they do not have a great deal of retail stores, they do
sell their brand in 29 different countries across the globe and online.

Fig 9 - Brooke Street


(John Smedley,
Pinterest)

OPPORTUNITIES

THREATS

Trend Based Options

Competitors Pricing

John Smedleys collections and filled with classic


and simplistic garments. An opportunity to the
brand is to open up their range to a few trend
based options to keep their customers intrigued
and to touch on a missed opportunity.

Although John Smedley prides itself on the quality of


their garments, their competitors who are using the
same materials are pricing their garments at a lower
retail price. This is a potential threat to the brand because if the customer sees the same garment in the
same material they are most likely to purchase the
lower priced product.

Brick-and-Mortar Expansions
Although John Smedleys online presence is their
specialty, an opportunity rests on expanding into
brick-and-mortar stores. By expanding, the brand
could have an opportunity to magnify their customer base.
Advertising
John Smedleys advertising lacks compared to their
competitors. This opportunity could have an immense growth to their brand recognition and sales
volume.

Brand Recognition
John Smedleys biggest threat is their brand recognition. Because of their lack of advertising and
brick-and-mortar stores, the biggest way they allow
for new consumers is through word of mouth. By tapping into these missed opportunities, their brand
recognition will surely rise.

PG14

TRENDS
Fig 10 - Press Day (Chase Bond, 2011)

2015/16 TRENDS IDENTIFIED

Fig 11-20 - Knitwear (SSENSE, 2014)

PG16

Colour Palettes
Fig 21 - Feather Cycles FX John Smedley (Cyclesexif, 2012)

MUTED EARTH TONES


MUTED PIGMENT PASTELS

PG18

Collection

AW
autumn/winter
2015

JOHN SMEDLEYS
BEST SELLERS
In John Smedleys Womens A/W 2013-14 collection, the best sellers were
appointed to the classic Susan boat neck (In colours Midnight, Black,
Snow White, Bunny, Papaya, Spanish Pink, Jade, and Lunar Blue), the Mora
turtle neck (In colours Black, Charcoal, Silver, Midnight, and Macadamia),
the Bela (In colours White, Pumpkin Flower, Silver, Black, Charcoal, Navy,
Spanish Pink, and Firecracker) and Betty (In colours Charcoal, Macadamia,
Spanish Pink, and Firecracker) cardigans, the Ellipse scarf (In colours Midnight and Espresso), and the Josslyn hat (In colours Black, Midnight, and
Silver). Because these styles were so popular with John Smedleys Women
clientele, the Womens A/W 2014-15 collection will react to this by taking
the previous design and enhancing it to new demands.
The following four styles will be enhanced:
Mora: The Mora turtle neck will be enhanced by lowering the neck line
slightly so the tip of the garment will fall mid-neck on the customer (also
known as the nock turtle neck). Will also be done in a smaller gage.
Bela: The Bela cardigan will be enhanced by adding a belt to the design to
give the customers the option of closing the garment.
Ellipse: The Ellipse scarf will be enhanced by looping the beginning and
end yarns together to make an enclosed scarf (also known as a circle
scarf ).
Josslyn: The Josslyn hat will be enhanced by taking off the pompom on
the tip of the hat. The original Josslyn hat will be readded to the Womens
A/W 2014-15 collection again.

FIG 22- JOHN SMEDLEYS BELA


CARDIGAN IN PUMPKIN
FLOWER (John Smedley, 2014)

PG20

INTRODUCTION TO

COLLECTION
John Smedleys A/W 2015 collection is comprised with a mix of
fashion trends along with the classic Smedley feel. This collection
has been carefully designed with inspiration taken from runways,
our past definitive heritage styles, and the cold England climate.
The colours and shades have been wisely handpicked to appeal
to the John Smedley customer. The creativeness behind the hues
has been taken from vibrant fruits and muted earth tones.
The following is the A/W 2015 full preview

Season:
A/W 2015/16
Style Number:
Angela
Fit:
Slim Fit

Size:
S, M, L, XL
Gender:
Womens
Gauge:
30

Details:
Knee length, slim fit, ribbed neck,
cuffs, and trim, 30 gage dress.
Care:
t8BTIBU$VTJOHOPO
biological, bleach free
detergent
t5VSOUIFHBSNFOUJOTJEFPVUUP
protect the outer surface
t%SZBXBZGSPNIFBU
t3F-shape and iron slightly
damp, using a hot iron
t6TFUIFTUFBNPSMPXTFUUJOH
XBSNJSPO
t'PSESZJSPOJOHVTFBEBNQ
cloth to avoid glazing
t'PSNPSFJOGPSNBUJPOZPV
should check the care label
found inside your garment.
Fabrics:
100% Merino Wool

Season:
Size:
A/W 2015/16
S, M, L, XL
Style Number:
Gender:
Penelope
Womens
Fit:
Gauge:
Slim Fit
25
Details:
Knee length, panelled front,
added full belt, 25 gage cardigan.
Care:
t)BOEXBTIBU$VTJOHOPO
biological, bleach free
EFUFSHFOU4NFEMFZHBSNFOU XF
recommend:
t5VSOUIFHBSNFOUJOTJEFPVUUP
protect the outer surface
t%SZBXBZGSPNIFBU
t3F-shape and iron, using a
cool iron
tSpecialist Dry Cleaning Only
t'PSNPSFJOGPSNBUJPOZPV
should check the care label
found inside your garment.
Fabrics:
Wool & Cashmere Blend
Colours:

Colours:

In John Smedleys past collection, there have been 3 different wool dresses designed; Nemo, Raya,
and Dawn. In the A/W 15/16 collection, Angela has been designed to taper into the naturel waist and
extended the neckline to a mock turtle neck.

As previously stated, the Bela cardigan will be enhanced in the A/W 15/16 collection. The new design
will now be called Penelope. Penelope will be enhanced by added a belt to the design so that
consumers will have an option of closing the garment.

PG22

Season
Size:
A/W 2015/16
S, M, L, XL
Style Number:
Gender:
Hannah
Womens
Fit:
Gauge:
Easy Fit
25
Details:
Knee length, collar neck, ribbed
cuffs, button down, double front
pocket, 25 gage coat.
Care:
t8BTIBU$VTJOHOPO
biological, bleach free
detergent
t5VSOUIFHBSNFOUJOTJEFPVUUP
protect the outer surface
t%SZBXBZGSPNIFBU
t3F-shape and iron slightly
damp, using a hot iron
t6TFUIFTUFBNPSMPXTFUUJOH
warm iron
t'PSESZJSPOJOHVTFBEBNQ
cloth to avoid glazing
t'PSNPSFJOGPSNBUJPOZPV
should check the care label
found inside your garment.
Fabrics:
100% Merino Wool
Colours:

A coat has been added to the A/W 15/16 collection. The new design will be called Hannah. Hannah is
designed as a long wool cardigan that will hit consumers knee length. A collar neckline, zipper front
along with 5 buttons, and 2 pockets on either side of the front of the garment.

Season
A/W 2015/16

Size:
S, M, L, XL

Style Number:
Megan
Fit:
Easy Fit

Gender:
Womens
Gauge:
25

Details:
Collared neck, double armhole,
zippered 25 gage poncho.
Care:
t8BTIBU$VTJOHOPO
biological, bleach free
detergent
t5VSOUIFHBSNFOUJOTJEFPVU
to protect the outer surface
t%SZBXBZGSPNIFBU
t3F-shape and iron slightly
damp, using a hot iron
t6TFUIFTUFBNor low setting
warm iron
t'PSESZJSPOJOHVTFBEBNQ
cloth to avoid glazing
t'PSNPSFJOGPSNBUJPOZPV
should check the care label
found inside your garment.
Fabrics:
100% Merino Wool
Colours:

A poncho has been added to the A/W 15/16 collection. The design will be named Megan. Megan is
designed with a collar neckline and two arm holes in the front to allow consumers so move without
hassle like capes tend to do. Megan will have a zip up front.

Season
Size:
A/W 2015/16
ONE
Style Number:
Gender:
Brianna
Womens
Fit:
Gauge:
Slim Fit
30
Details:
long, rolled back edge, 30 gage
gloves.
Care:
t8BTIBU$VTJOHOPO
CJPMPHJDBM CMFBDIGSFF
detergent
t5VSOUIFHBSNFOUJOTJEFPVUUP
QSPUFDUUIFPVUFSTVSGBDF
t%SZBXBZGSPNIFBU
t3F-TIBQFBOEJSPOTMJHIUMZ
EBNQ VTJOHBIPUJSPO
t6TFUIFTUFBNPSMPXTFUUJOH
XBSNJSPO
t'PSESZ ironing use a damp
DMPUIUPBWPJEHMB[JOH
t'PSNPSFJOGPSNBUJPOZPV
TIPVMEDIFDLUIFDBSFMBCFM
GPVOEJOTJEFZPVSHBSNFOU
Fabrics:

Season
Size:
A/W 2015/16
S, M, L, XL
Style Number:
Gender:
Lanie
Womens
Fit:
Gauge:
Easy Fit
25
Details:
'VMMZGBTIJPOTTIPVMEFST SJCCFE
DVGGTBOEUSJN HBHFWOFDL
TXFBUFS
Care:
t8BTIBU$
t8BTIEBSLBOEMJHIUDPMPVST
separately
t1SFGFSBCMZESZGMBUBOETUPSF
GMBU
t3F-TIBQFBOEJSPOTMJHIUMZ
EBNQ VTJOHBIPUJSPO
t'PSNPSFJOGPSNBUJPOZPV
TIPVMEDIFDLUIFDBSFMBCFM
GPVOEJOTJEFZPVSHBSNFOU
Fabrics:
100% Sea Island Cotton
Colours:

100% Merino Wool


Colours:

Aggie and Bridgette are the past John Smedley glove designs. Both were simple but came in multiple
colours. In the A/W 15/16 collection, Briana has been designed with 2 different stitching patterns to
give texture to the design and also has been elongated to keep our consumers warmer.

Lanie has been readded to the A/W 15/16 collection as it is a staple John Smedley garment. New
colours will be added to give consumers more choice.

PG24

Season
Size:
A/W 2015/16
S, M, L, XL
Style Number:
Gender:
Kristen
Womens
Fit:
Gauge:
Slim Fit
30
Details:
Fully fashioned shoulders, roll
neck, ribbed cuffs, 30 gage mock
turtle neck.
Care:
t8BTIBU$VTJOHOPO
biological, bleach free
detergent
t5VSOUIFHBSNFOUJOTJEFPVUUP
protect the outer surface
t%SZBXBZGSPNIFBU
t3F-shape and iron slightly
damp, using a hot iron
t6TFUIFTUFBNPSMPXTFUUJOH
XBSNJSPO
t'PSESZJSPOJOHVTFBEBNQ
cloth to avoid glazing
t'PSNPSFJOGPSNBUJPOZPV
should check the care label
found inside your garment.
Fabrics:

Season
A/W 2015/16
Style Number:
Zoay
Fit:
Slim Fit

Size:
S, M, L, XL
Gender:
Womens
Gauge:
30

Details:
4MJNGJU SJCCFEXBJTU EPVCMFGSPOU
pockets, 30 gage skirt.
Care:
t)BOEXBTIBU$VTJOHOPO
biological, bleach free
EFUFSHFOU4NFEMFZHBSNFOU XF
recommend:
t5VSOUIFHBSNFOUJOTJEFPVUUP
protect the outer surface
t%SZBXBZGSPNIFBU
t3F-shape and iron, using a
cool iron
t4QFDJBMJTU%SZ$MFBOJOH0OMZ
t'PSNPSFJOGPSNBUJPOZPV
should check the care label
found inside your garment.
Fabrics:
Wool & Cashmere Blend
Colours:

100% Merino Wool


Colours:

As previously stated, the Mora turtle neck will be enhanced in the A/W 15/16 collection. The new
design will now be called Kristen. Kristen will be enhanced by lowering the neck line to fall mid-neck
(the mock turtle neck). Kristen will also be done in a lower gage.

A wool skirt has been added to the A/W 15/16 collection. The new design will be called Zoay. Zoay is
designed as a A-line skirt with added pockets on either side of the front. Zoay has a ribbed band that
tapers to the naturel waist of the consumers.

Season
Size:
A/W 2015/16
ONE
Style Number:
Gender:
Veronica
Womens
Fit:
Gauge:
Slim Fit
30
Details:
Full fashioned, ribbed cuff, 30
gage hat.
Care:
t)BOEXBTIBU $VTJOHOPO
biological, bleach free
EFUFSHFOU4NFEMFZHBSNFOU XF
recommend:
t5VSOUIFHBSNFOUJOTJEFPVUUP
protect the outer surface
t%SZBXBZGSPNIFBU
t3F-shape and iron, using a
cool iron
t4QFDJBMJTU%SZ$MFBOJOH0OMZ
t'PSNPSFJOGPSNBUJon you
should check the care label
found inside your garment.
Fabrics:
Wool and Cashmere Blend
Colours:

Season
Size:
A/W 2015/16
ONE
Style Number:
Gender:
Carlyn
Womens
Fit:
Gauge:
Easy Fit
24
Details:
Fully fashioned, looped as one, 24
gage scarf.
Care:
t8BTIBU$VTJOHOPO
biological, bleach free
detergent
t5VSOUIFHBSNFOUJOTJEFPVUUP
protect the outer surface
t%SZBXBZGSPNIFBU
t3F-shape and iron slightly
damp, using a hot iron
t6TFUIFTUFBNPSMPXTFUUJOH
XBSNJSPO
t'PSESZironing use a damp
cloth to avoid glazing
t'PSNPSFJOGPSNBUJPOZPV
should check the care label
found inside your garment.
Fabrics:
Wool and Cashmere Blend
Colours:

As previously stated, the Josslyn hat will be enhanced in the A/W 15/16 collection. The new design will
now be called Veronica. Veronica has been designed with 2 stitching patterns. Unlike Josslyn, Veronica
will not have a pompom added to the tip of the hat.

As previously stated, the Ellipse scarf will be enhanced in the A/W 15/16 collection. The new design
will now be called Carlyn. Carlyn will be enhanced by looping the beginning and end yarns together
to make an enclosed scarf.

PG26

Range Plan
Fig 23 - SS 12 (Pinterest, 2011)

Assortment/Range Plan

John Smedley
A/W 2015/16
Collection

Style #:
Description:
Basic/Core
Fashion Trend
S M L XL
Cost Price
Margin %
Selling Price
Total Spent (Coat)

Angela
Taper naturel waist, knee length
merino wool dress.
Fashion

Penelope
Classic cardigan with additional
belt in wool and cashmere blend.
Basic

Hannah
Mens inspired coat with front
pockets/buttons in wool.
Basic

Megan
Full fashioned cape with front
armholes in Merino wool.
Fashion

Brianna
gloves with ribbed trim
in Merino wool.
Basic

25% - 25% - 25% - 25%


(10,000 Limit)
51.67
74%
195.00

25% - 25% - 25% - 25%


(10,000 Limit)
56.75
75%
225.00

25% - 25% - 25% - 25%


(5,000 Limit)
124.75
75%
499.00

25% - 25% - 25% - 25%


(10,000 Limit)
52.50
70%
175.00

25% - 25% - 25% - 25%


(10,000 Limit)
10.35
77%
45.00

516,700

567,500

623,750

525,000

103,500

*Sizes and limits would normally be based on last years sales.

PG28

Assortment/Range Plan

John Smedley
A/W 2015/16
Collection

Style #:
Description:
Basic/Core
Fashion Trend
S M L - XL
Cost Price
Margin %
Selling Price
Total Spend
(Cost)

Lanie
Classic V neck with ribbed cuffs in
100% Merino Wool.
Basic

Kristen
Mock turtle neck and ribbed
cuffs in Merino wool.
Basic

Zoay
A-line skirt with ribbed waist in
wool and cashmere blend.
Fashion

Veronica
Classic ribbed band hat in
100% Merino wool.
Basic

Carlyn
Looped wool scarf in
Merino wool.
Fashion

25% - 25% - 25% - 25%


(10,000 Limit)
34.32
70%
115.00

25% - 25% - 25% - 25%


(10,000 Limit)
37.12
73%
139.00

25% - 25% - 25% - 25%


(10,000 Limit)
30.00
70%
100.00

25% - 25% - 25% - 25%


(10,000 Limit)
16.20
77%
70.00

25% - 25% - 25% - 25%


(10,000 Limit)
13.33
77%
60.00

343,200

371,200

300,000

161,000

133,300

*Sizes and limits would normally be based on last years sales.

PG30

Costing Sheets
Fig 24 - Made in England (John Smedley Pinterest, 2014)

John Smedley Costing Sheet


Date:

Jan 15 2015

Style #:

Angela

Currency:

Department:

Women's

Season:

A/W 2015/16

SRP:

195.00

FOB Costs:
NZ Merino Wool (0.38kg)

Total Yarn Cost

CM Cost
Knitting
Cutting
Linking
Washing
Examine
Finishing
Package
Total
Manufacturing Cost
Total CMT Cost
Total Cost

QTY
132.30

per
per

Weight
kg

50.24

SMV
2.4 mins
30 sec
45 sec
1 hour
1.5-2 mins
3-8 mins
30-1min

Cost/SM
0.1083*2.4
0.1083/2
0.1083/4*3
1040/4000
0.1083*2
0.1083*3
0.1083/4*3

Cost
0.26
0.05
0.08
0.26
0.22
0.32
0.08
1.27

Trim Item
Buttons
Zippers
Care Labels
Swing Tickets
Hangers
Total trim Cost
Currency Exchange

Cost

$0.04
$0.03
$0.18
$0.25
0.16

See Appendix A
for
references and equations

50.40
1.27
51.67

PG32

John Smedley Costing Sheet


Date:

Jan 15 2015

Style #:

Carlyn

Currency:

Department:

Women's

Season:

A/W 2015/16

SRP:

60.00

Weight
kg

Trim Item
Buttons
Zippers
Care Labels
Swing Tickets
Hangers
Total trim Cost
Currency Exchange

FOB Costs:
NZ Merino Wool (0.09kg)

Total Yarn Cost

CM Cost
Knitting
Cutting
Linking
Washing
Examine
Finishing
Package
Total
Manufacturing Cost
Total CMT Cost
Total Cost

QTY
per
132.20 per

11.90

SMV
2.4 mins
30 sec
45 sec
1 hour
1.5-2 mins
3-8 mins
30-1min

Cost/SM
0.1083*2.4
0.1083/2
0.1083/4*3
1040/4000
0.1083*2
0.1083*3
0.1083/4*3

12.06
1.27
13.33

Cost
0.26
0.05
0.08
0.26
0.22
0.32
0.08
1.27

Cost

$0.04
$0.03
$0.18
$0.25
0.16

See Appendix B
for
references and equations

John Smedley Costing Sheet


Date:

Jan 15 2015

Style #:

Kristen

Currency:

Department:

Women's

Season:

A/W 2015/16

SRP:

139.00

FOB Costs:
NZ Merino Wool (.27kg)

Total Yarn Cost

CM Cost
Knitting
Cutting
Linking
Washing
Examine
Finishing
Package
Total
Manufacturing Cost
Total CMT Cost
Total Cost

QTY
132.20

per
per

Weight
1kg

35.69

SMV
2.4 mins
30 sec
45 sec
1 hour
1.5-2 mins
3-8 mins
30-1min

Cost/SM
0.1083*2.4
0.1083/2
0.1083/4*3
1040/4000
0.1083*2
0.1083*3
0.1083/4*3

Trim Item
Buttons
Zippers
Care Labels
Swing Tickets
Hangers
Total trim Cost
Currency Exchange

Cost

$0.04
$0.03
$0.18
$0.25
0.16

See Appendix C
for
references and equations

Cost
0.26
0.05
0.08
0.26
0.22
0.32
0.08
1.27

35.85
1.27
37.12

PG34

John Smedley Costing Sheet


Date:

Jan 15th 2015

Style #:

Lanie

Currency

Department:

Women's

Season:

A/W 2015/16

SRP:

115.00

FOB Costs:
NZ Merino Wool (0.25kg)

Total Yarn Cost

CM Cost
Knitting
Cutting
Linking
Washing
Examine
Finishing
Package
Total
Manufacturing Cost
Total CMT Cost
Total Cost

QTY
$132.20

per
per

Weight
1kg

33.05

SMV
2.4 mins
30 sec
45 sec
1 hour
1.5-2 mins
3-8 mins
30-1min

Cost/SM
0.1083*2.40
0.1083/2
0.1083/4*3
1040/4000
0.1083*2
0.1083*3
0.1083/4*3

33.21
1.27
34.32

Cost
0.26
0.05
0.08
0.26
0.22
0.32
0.08
1.27

Trim Item
Buttons
Zippers
Care Labels
Swing Tickets
Hangers
Total Trim Cost
Currency Exchange

Cost

$0.04
$0.03
$0.18
$0.25
0.16

See Appendix D
for
references and equations

PG36

Outcome
Fig 25 - Made in England (John Smedley Pinterest, 2014)

The John Smedley A/W 2015/16 is determined to gives its consumers the heritage and classic feel that they expect
from the brand, but also give them trend
based designs to keep up with the ever
changing fashion world. Bringing back
the 2014/15 best sellers was essential to
this autumn/winter collection to give our
customers their favourite staple styles in
this seasons new colours.
Throughout this report the inspirations,
visions, pricing, and full preview have
been layout out to give a sense of how
the brand has developed the range. Also,
this report has laid out the strengths and
weaknesses and the business/socioeconomic effects towards the John Smedley
company.
The consumers know John Smedley for
its hand finished, fine-gauge knitwear in
luxury materials and the A/W 2015/16
collection continues to provide just that.

Fig 26 - John Smedley Store (Office Twelve, 2015)

PG38

Image References
Fig 27 - Made in England (John Smedley Pinterest, 2014)

Fig 1 - Clarke, P. (2012). Capsule/JohnSmedley. Available: https://www.behance.net/gallery/1798926/CapsualJohn-Smedley-website. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.
Fig 2 - Bevis, D. (2010). Lea Bridge. Available: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Lea_Bridge_-_John_Smedley_Mill_-_Factory_Shop.jpg. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.
Fig 3 - Wilson, P. (n.d). Brand Watch: John Smedley. Available: http://www.mensfashionmagazine.com/brand-watch-john-smedley. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.
Fig 4 - Mr, Style. (2011). N/A. Available: http://mrstyle1.blogspot.co.uk/2011/09/detalles-miss-universe-2011.html. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.
Fig 5 - Anon. (2014). Made in England. Available: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/204773114277315520/. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.
Fig 6 - Anon. (2012). Down on the farm. Available: https://sfkfsfcfef.wordpress.com/tag/farm/. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.
Fig 7 - Chasar, M. (2013). N/A. Available: http://mikechasar.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/the-rise-of-creative-reading-melissa.html. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.
Fig 8 - Anon. (2014). John Smedley Christmas Hamper. Available: https://uk.pinterest.com/johnsmedley/john-smedley-christmas-hamper/. Last accessed Jan 12 2015.
Fig 9 - John Smedley. (n.d). Brooke Street. Available: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/204773114277315220/. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.
Fig 10 - Charles, C. (2011). Press Day. Available: http://chasebond.blogspot.co.uk/2011/01/bryan-morel-pr-press-day-2010.html. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.
Fig 11 to 20 - Anon. (2014). Knitwear. Available: https://www.ssense.com/women?q=knitwear. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.
Fig 21 - Anon. (2012). Feather Cycles FX John Smedley. Available: http://www.cycleexif.com/feather-cycles-x-john-smedley. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.
Fig 22 - Anon. (2014). Cardigans. Available: http://www.johnsmedley.com/uk/aw14-bela-in-pumpkin-flower. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.
Fig 23 - Anon. (2012). SS 12. Available: https://uk.pinterest.com/johnsmedley/ss12-capsule-collection/. Last accessed Jan 12 2015.
Fig 24 - Anon. (2014). Made in England. Available: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/204773114277050889/. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.
Fig 25 - Anon. (2014). Made in England. Available: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/204773114277315511/. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.
Fig 26 - Anon. (2015). John Smedley Store. Available: http://www.officetwelve.com/work/repeat/. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.
Fig 27 - Anon. (2014). Made in England. Available: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/204773114277315527/. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.
Fig 28 - Anon. (2014). Limited Edition. Available: https://uk.pinterest.com/search/pins/?q=john%20smedley%20bag. Last accessed Jan 14 2015.
Fig 29 - Anon. (2014). Made in England. Available: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/204773114277050641/. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.

PG40

References
Fig 28- Limited Edition (Pinterest, 2014)

Books

Dillon, S (2012). The Fundamentals of Fashion Management. Switzerland: AVA Publishing. 56.
Easey (2009). Fashion Marketing. 3rd ed. USA: Blackwell Publishing. 63-68.
Grose, V (2012). Fashion Merchandising. Switzerland: AVA Publishing. 46-49.
Munson, C (2014). The Importance of Coordinating Product Development with Supply Chain Planing in the Fashion Goods Industry. New jeresy: Pearson Education
Varley, R (2014). Retail Product Management. 3rd ed. New York: Taylor & Frauiser Group. 84-86.

Other

Anon., 2014. Tour with Anon, John Smedley Factory, Matlock, 15th October.
Claxton, S., 2015. Conversation with Stella Claxton, Dice Building, Nottingham trent University, 16th January.

Bibliography
Fig 29 - Made in England (John Smedley Pinterest, 2014)

Anon. (2013). Is there a bubble in the luxury goods market?.Available: http://fortune.com/2013/01/24/is-there-a-bubble-in-the-luxury-goods-market/. Last accessed 08-12-2014.
Anon. (2014). WOMEN'S TOP 10 COLORS F/W 2015-16 TRENDS. FASHION SNOOPS. Available: http://weconnectfashion.com/fido/getarticle.fcn?&
type=trends&SearchString=f/w+2015&id=737870PW0000169&start=2&tr=7. Last accessed 07-12-2014.
Anon. (2014). Fall/Winter 2014 Runway. Available: http://www.colorsolutionsinternational.com/Fall-Winter-2014-Runway.cfm#.VIYzODHF-9V. Last accessed 08-12-2014.
Anon. (2010). cotton. Available: https://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/tag/sea-island-cotton/. Last accessed 08-12-2014.
Anon. (n.d). Wool. Available: http://liberationbc.org/issues/wool. Last accessed 07-12-2014.
Anon. (2014). Bain & Companys 2014 annual global luxury study proclaims the rise of the consumer as luxury markets settle in for lower, but more sustainable long-term growth. Available:
http://www.bain.com/about/press/press-releases/bain-and-companys-2014-annual-global-luxury-study.aspx. Last accessed 08-12-2014.
Anon. (2014). IMAGE & DESIGN LIBRARY. Available: http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/search/search.php#%7B%22start%22%3A%200%2C%20%22limit%22%3A%2050%2C%20%22f_limit%22%3A%205%2C%20%22q%22%3A%20%22pantone%22%2C%20%22block_markets%5B%5
D%22%3A%20%5B. Last accessed 07-12-2014.
Anon. (2015). Best Sellers. Available: http://www.johnsmedley.com/uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=best+sellers. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.
Baker, K. (2013). Largest class survey reveals polarised UK society and the rise of new groups. Available: http://www.uk.sagepub.com/aboutus/press/2013/apr/3_apr3.htm. Last accessed 16th
oct 2014.
Booker, Avery. (2014). Easing of US Visas for Chinese Travelers Heralds a Business Boom. Available: http://luxurysociety.com/articles/2014/11/easing-of-us-visas-for-chinese-travelers-heralds-a-business-boom. Last accessed 08-12-2014.
BBC. (2013). Huge survey reveals seven social classes in UK.Available: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-22007058. Last accessed 15th oct 2014.
Book, A. (2012). Umbro and John Smedley Olympic collaboration.Available: http://www.fashionising.com/clothing/b--umbro-john-smedley-olympic-collection-27399.html. Last accessed 17th
Oct 2014.
Braukmper, Tania. (2014). Fall / winter 2015 colour trends..Available: http://www.fashionising.com/trends/b--fall-2015-fashion-trends-autumn-winter-2015-fashion-75173.html. Last accessed
07-12-2014.
Doughty, S. (2013). Are you a precariat, new affluent worker or elite? Study reveals there are now SEVEN social classes in the new jargon-filled British class system Read more: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2. Available: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2303333/Great-British-Class-Survey-reveals-UK-7-social-classes-Are-precariat-new-affluent-worker-elite.html.
Last accessed 16th oct 2014.

PG42

Dixon, H. (2013). Average middle class Briton earns 25,000 and drives a Ford. Available: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/lifestyle/9929998/Average-middle-class-Briton-earns-25000-and-drives-a-Ford.html. Last accessed 15th Oct 2014.
Dutta, K. (2011). Class exclusive: Seven in 10 of us belong to Middle Britain. Available: http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/this-britain/class-exclusive-seven-in-10-of-us-belong-to-middle-britain-2247052.html. Last accessed 15th oct 2014.
Esquire. (2012). The Collaboration | John Smedley x Umbro Collection.Available: http://www.esquire.co.uk/style/shoes/548/the-collaboration-john-smedley-x-umbro-collection/. Last
accessed 17th Oct 2014.
Esquire. (2012). The Collaboration | John Smedley x Comme des Garons. Available: http://www.esquire.co.uk/style/fashion/757/the-collaboration-john-smedley-x-comme-des-garcons/. Last
accessed 17th Oct 2014.
Galloway, Anne . (2011). Merino husbandry issues and public concerns. Available: http://designculturelab.org/2011/08/04/merino-husbandry-issues-and-public-concerns/. Last accessed
08-12-2014.
Hills, S. (2013). 'Average' Britons who earn 25,000 and drive a Ford see themselves as middle class Read more: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2293690/Britons-earn-25-000-drive-Ford-middle-class.html#ixzz3HZ9. Available: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2293690/Britons-earn-25-000-drive-Ford-middle-class.html. Last accessed 15th
oct 2014.
J-Louis, Dorly. (2014). Fashion Forecast: Key Colour Combos Fall 2015 Winter 2016. Available: http://www.dorlydesigns.com/2014/07/fashion-forecast-key-colour-combos-fall-2015-winter-2016.html#.VHDTWIusW9U. Last accessed 07-12-2014.
Melton, Aria. (n.d). greenopedia. Available: http://greenopedia.com/article/dark-side-wool-industry. Last accessed 08-12-2014.
Liberty London. (2014). ACNE STUDIOS FOR LIBERTY. Available: http://www.liberty.co.uk/fcp/content/acne-liberty/content. Last accessed 17th Oct 2014.
Pieri, K. (2014). WE'RE OBSESSED: A MOTO GONE GIRLY. Available: http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/fashion-articles/acne-studios-liberty-collection. Last accessed 17th Oct 2014.
Popsugar Fashion. (2009). Lanvin and Acne Denim Collaboration Online; Already Renewed. Available: http://www.popsugar.com/fashion/Lanvin-Acne-Denim-Collaboration-Online-Already-Renewed-2621276. Last accessed 16th Oct 2014.
Salter, B. (2013). Average UK gamer is 35, married, earns $38K per year. Available: http://mmgn.com/xboxone/news--average-uk-gamer-is-35-married-earns-38k-per. Last accessed 16th Oct
2014.
Savage, M; Devine,F . (2013). Largest class survey reveals polarised UK society and the rise of new groups . Largest class survey reveals polarised UK society and the rise of new groups . 1 (1),
1-1.

Smith, L. (2013). Britain now divided into SEVEN classes not just upper, middle and working: Which are you?. Available: http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/uk-news/britain-now-divided-seven-classes-1806186. Last accessed 15th oct 2014.
Smith, Gary. (2010). Wool Is Cruel. Available: http://www.elephantjournal.com/2010/01/pulling-the-wool-over-our-eyes-gary-smith/. Last accessed 08-12-2014.
Sneddon, Joanne. (2011). How the wool industry has undercut itself on mulesing. Available: http://theconversation.com/how-the-wool-industry-has-undercut-itself-on-mulesing-956. Last
accessed 08-12-2014.

PG44

Swing Tickets
Care Labels

Wooden Hangers

C.M Costs
Weight of Garment
Washing: 1 Hour

APPENDIX A - Angela

Anon. (2015). New Zealand Merino Wool. Available:


http://www.briarpatch.co.nz/shop/100+New+Zealand+Merino++Organically+Grown.html. Last accessed Jan 15 2015.
Anon. (n.d). Swing Tickets. Available:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Popular-swingticket_508160669.html. Last accessed Jan 12 2015.
Anon. (n.d). Care Labels. Available:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/custom-wholesaleclothing-label-polyester-cotton_2000469481.html. Last accessed
Jan 12 2015.
Anon. (n.d). Wooden Luxury Hangers. Available:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Luxury-WoodenHangers-with-Cross-Bar_590422408.html. Last accessed Jan 12
2015.

Based on notes taken during our John Smedley Factor visit.

Knitting: 2.40 mins

Cutting: 30 sec

Linking: 45 sec

Examine: 1.5 2 mins

Finishing: 3 8 mins
(Depending on
Buttons, collars, etc)

Packaging: 30s -1 min

Equations
Washers Salary: =8 (hours/day) X 6.50 (wage)
=52 X 5 (days/week)
=260 X 48 (weeks/year)
=12,480
4000 garments per month
=1,040 (months salary) / 4000
=0.26 per garment
Mins to make garment
=4000 / 20 (days worked)
=200 (garments/day) / 8 (hours worked)
=25 (garments/hour)
=60 (mins) / 25
=2.40
Price to make garment
=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins)
=0.1083 (wage/min) X 2.40 (mins to make)
=0.26 per garment
Price to make garment
=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins/hour)
=0.1083 (wage/min) / 2
=0.05 per garment
Price to make garment
=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins/hour)
=0.1083 / 4 (quarter mins)
=0.027075 X 3 (min quarters)
=0.08 per garment
Per Garment
=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins/hour)
=0.1083 X 2 (minutes)
=0.22 per garment
Per garment

Per garment

=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins/hour)


=0.1083 X 3 (mins)
=0.32 per garment
=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins)
=0.1083 / 4 (quarters)

=0.027075 X 3(quarters)
=0.08 per garment
Weight of
x 132.20 = 1kg merino wool
Garment/Price
x Price for garment
=1 (kg) - .38 (weight)
=.62
=132.20 X .62
=81.96
=132.20 81.96
= 50.24
Mark-up %
x Retail Cost X 100
Retail
x 195.00 51.67 X 100
195.00
x 74% Mark-up
*Wages for workers are based on the minimum wage in the U.K

APPENDIX A

New Zealand Merino


Wool Yarn

Swing Tickets
Care Labels

Wooden Hangers

C.M Costs
Weight of Garment

Washing: 1 Hour

APPENDIX B - Carlyn

Anon. (2015). New Zealand Merino Wool. Available:


http://www.briarpatch.co.nz/shop/100+New+Zealand+Merino++Organically+Grown.html. Last accessed Jan 15 2015.
Anon. (n.d). Swing Tickets. Available:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Popular-swingticket_508160669.html. Last accessed Jan 12 2015.
Anon. (n.d). Care Labels. Available:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/custom-wholesaleclothing-label-polyester-cotton_2000469481.html. Last accessed
Jan 12 2015.
Anon. (n.d). Wooden Luxury Hangers. Available:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Luxury-WoodenHangers-with-Cross-Bar_590422408.html. Last accessed Jan 12
2015.

Based on notes taken during our John Smedley Factor visit.

Anon. (2015). Reversible Beanie. Available:


http://www.minus33.com/shop-merino-wool/accessories-2/sbreversible-beanie/. Last accessed Jan 15 2015.

Knitting: 2.40 mins

Cutting: 30 sec

Linking: 45 sec

Examine: 1.5 2 mins

Finishing: 3 8 mins
(Depending on
Buttons, collars, etc)

Packaging: 30s -1 min

Equations
Washers Salary: =8 (hours/day) X 6.50 (wage)
=52 X 5 (days/week)
=260 X 48 (weeks/year)
=12,480
4000 garments per month
=1,040 (months salary) / 4000
=0.26 per garment
Mins to make garment
=4000 / 20 (days worked)
=200 (garments/day) / 8 (hours worked)
=25 (garments/hour)
=60 (mins) / 25
=2.40
Price to make garment
=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins)
=0.1083 (wage/min) X 2.40 (mins to make)
=0.26 per garment
Price to make garment
=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins/hour)
=0.1083 (wage/min) / 2
=0.05 per garment
Price to make garment
=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins/hour)
=0.1083 / 4 (quarter mins)
=0.027075 X 3 (min quarters)
=0.08 per garment
Per Garment
=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins/hour)
=0.1083 X 2 (minutes)
=0.22 per garment
Per garment

Per garment

=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins/hour)


=0.1083 X 3 (mins)
=0.32 per garment

=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins)


=0.1083 / 4 (quarters)
=0.027075 X 3(quarters)
=0.08 per garment
Weight of
x 132.20 = 1kg merino wool
Garment/Price
x Price for garment
=1 (kg) 0.09 (weight)
= 0.91
=132.20 X 0.91
=120.30
=132.20 120.30
=11.90
Mark-up %
x Retail Cost X 100
Retail
x 60.00 13.33 X 100
60.00
x 77% Mark-up
*Wages for workers are based on the minimum wage in the U.K

APPENDIX B

New Zealand Merino


Wool Yarn

Swing Tickets
Care Labels

Wooden Hangers

C.M Costs
Weight of Garment

Washing: 1 Hour

APPENDIX C - Kristen

Anon. (2015). New Zealand Merino Wool. Available:


http://www.briarpatch.co.nz/shop/100+New+Zealand+Merino++Organically+Grown.html. Last accessed Jan 15 2015.
Anon. (n.d). Swing Tickets. Available:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Popular-swingticket_508160669.html. Last accessed Jan 12 2015.
Anon. (n.d). Care Labels. Available:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/custom-wholesaleclothing-label-polyester-cotton_2000469481.html. Last accessed
Jan 12 2015.
Anon. (n.d). Wooden Luxury Hangers. Available:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Luxury-WoodenHangers-with-Cross-Bar_590422408.html. Last accessed Jan 12
2015.

Based on notes taken during our John Smedley Factor visit.

Anon. (2015). Women's Lightweight. Available:


http://www.minus33.com/shop-merino-wool/minus33/libertywomens-lightweight-14-zip/. Last accessed Jan 15 2015.

Knitting: 2.40 mins

Cutting: 30 sec

Linking: 45 sec

Examine: 1.5 2 mins

Finishing: 3 8 mins
(Depending on
Buttons, collars, etc)

Packaging: 30s -1 min

Equations
Washers Salary: =8 (hours/day) X 6.50 (wage)
=52 X 5 (days/week)
=260 X 48 (weeks/year)
=12,480
4000 garments per month
=1,040 (months salary) / 4000
=0.26 per garment
Mins to make garment
=4000 / 20 (days worked)
=200 (garments/day) / 8 (hours worked)
=25 (garments/hour)
=60 (mins) / 25
=2.40
Price to make garment
=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins)
=0.1083 (wage/min) X 2.40 (mins to make)
=0.26 per garment
Price to make garment
=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins/hour)
=0.1083 (wage/min) / 2
=0.05 per garment
Price to make garment
=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins/hour)
=0.1083 / 4 (quarter mins)
=0.027075 X 3 (min quarters)
=0.08 per garment
Per Garment
=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins/hour)
=0.1083 X 2 (minutes)
=0.22 per garment
Per garment

Per garment

=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins/hour)


=0.1083 X 3 (mins)
=0.32 per garment
=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins)

=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins)


=0.1083 / 4 (quarters)
=0.027075 X 3(quarters)
=0.08 per garment
Weight of
x 132.20 = 1kg merino wool
Garment/Price
x Price for garment
=1 (kg) - .27 (weight)
=.73
=132.20 X .73
=96.51
=132.20 96.51
=35.69
Mark-up %
x Retail Cost X 100
Retail
x 139.00 37.12 X 100
139.00
x 73% Mark-up
*Wages for workers are based on the minimum wage in the U.K

APPENDIX C

New Zealand Merino


Wool Yarn

Swing Tickets
Care Labels

Wooden Hangers

C.M Costs
Weight of Garment

Washing: 1 Hour

APPENDIX D Lanie

Anon. (2015). New Zealand Merino Wool. Available:


http://www.briarpatch.co.nz/shop/100+New+Zealand+Merino++Organically+Grown.html. Last accessed Jan 15 2015.
Anon. (n.d). Swing Tickets. Available:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Popular-swingticket_508160669.html. Last accessed Jan 12 2015.
Anon. (n.d). Care Labels. Available:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/custom-wholesaleclothing-label-polyester-cotton_2000469481.html. Last accessed
Jan 12 2015.
Anon. (n.d). Wooden Luxury Hangers. Available:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Luxury-WoodenHangers-with-Cross-Bar_590422408.html. Last accessed Jan 12
2015.

Based on notes taken during our John Smedley Factor visit.

Anon. (2015). Women's Midnight Crew. Available:


http://www.minus33.com/shop-merino-wool/minus33/ossipeewomens-midweight-crew/. Last accessed Jan 15 2015.

Knitting: 2.40 mins

Equations
Washers Salary: =8 (hours/day) X 6.50 (wage)
=52 X 5 (days/week)
=260 X 48 (weeks/year)
=12,480
4000 garments per month
=1,040 (months salary) / 4000
=0.26 per garment

Mins to make garment


=4000 / 20 (days worked)
=200 (garments/day) / 8 (hours worked)
=25 (garments/hour)
=60 (mins) / 25
=2.40
Price to make garment
=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins)
=0.1083 (wage/min) X 2.40 (mins to make)
=0.26 per garment
Price to make garment
=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins/hour)
=0.1083 (wage/min) / 2
=0.05 per garment

Cutting: 30 sec

Linking: 45 sec

Price to make garment


=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins/hour)
=0.1083 / 4 (quarter mins)
=0.027075 X 3 (min quarters)
=0.08 per garment

Examine: 1.5 2 mins

Per Garment

=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins/hour)


=0.1083 X 2 (minutes)
=0.22 per garment

Finishing: 3 8 mins
(Depending on
Buttons, collars, etc)

Packaging: 30s -1 min

Weight of
Garment/Price

x
x

Per garment

Per garment

=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins/hour)


=0.1083 X 3 (mins)
=0.32 per garment

=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins)


=0.1083 / 4 (quarters)
=0.027075 X 3(quarters)
=0.08 per garment

132.20 = 1kg merino wool


Price for garment
=1 (kg) - .25 (weight)
=.75
=132.20 X .75
=99.15
=132.20 99.15
= 33.05
Mark-up %
x Retail Cost X 100
Retail
x 115.00 34.32 X 100
115.00
x 70% Mark-up
*Wages for workers are based on the minimum wage in the U.K

APPENDIX D

New Zealand Merino


Wool Yarn

Final Word Count

2543

PG45