the future of denim

PAGE1

PAGE2

00 Editors Letter
01
Denim: Market analysis
02
Street style
03 International: Asia
04 International: Europe
05 International: North America
06 Boy meets girl
07
Rebel jean
08 Movement
09 The small things
10
Stop taking the P
11 Be good

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PAGE3

Members:
Olivia Elle Wright
Mclean
Lucy Woo
Samantha Munoz
Andrea Della Mattia
Zoe Roberts
Danielle Mayo

Fig 0.2 Faustine Steinmeiz A/W 14 embroidered jean, Anon. 2014.

Fig 0.3 Embelished Shorts Anon, n.d
Fig 0.4 Blue watercolour. Anon, n.d.
Fig 0.5 Xinyan Dai sustainable denim work. Xinyan Dai, 2013
Fig 0.6 Blue watercolour. Anon, n.d.
Fig 0.7 Denim textures.Anon, n.d.
Fig 0.8 Raw edge denim street style photo. Anon, n.d.
Fig 0.9 Blue ink in water. kokoshadow, 2014.
Fig 0.1, 0.12, 0.13, 0.14, 0.15, 0.16 Selfie of editors,
Wright Mclean. O. Woo. L, Munoz. S et al. 2015.

Front page: Fig 0.1 Ink,water, slow shutter speed, two colour mix. Anon, 2015.
Fig 0.10. Denim watercolour art. Anon, 2015.

PAGE4

This latest issue of KILT is is an innovative

issue for Denim trends for Womenswear
Autumn
Winter
2016/2017.
Consisting
of
analysis of the vast market growth,
consumer demographic and primary research.
In this issue we focus on 3 key influencial future
trends these are Rebel Jean: the future of rebellious
customisation. Boy meets girls: the concept
of boyish silhouettes on women and finally
Movement. This trend focuses on raw denim- lack
of movement and Tencel/lycra mixed denim- promovement. These trends have all been influenced
by international Bubble up trends from urban street
style and trickle down from various catwalk trends .
International aspect is an advantage with editors
from our team coming from various countries
around the world giving us a deeper insight
into the cultural influences such as, Canadian
tuxedo, Harajuku, Punk and dance culture.
So, we hope you enjoy the future of denim.

00 Editors Letter

Fig 0.11. Ximon Lee Graduate collection, Anon, 2014.

PAGE5

PAGE6

Key findings: from market research:

Super premium jeans are a growing market with rises
in value of 6% in the United Kingdom, 10% in China
and 3% in Canada.
Asia Pacific had the highest proportion of premium/
super-premium jeans, followed closely by the Middle
East and Africa.
Leading jean brands:
o UK: Diesel
o China: Levi
o Canada: Joe Fresh

with its price architecture ranging from $9 to $69 which

according to appendix A reflects on both economy
and premium market level of denim. Contradicting
Fig 1.1 which expresses downfall in super premium
jeans, although the % of sales value growth has gone
from -6.8 in 2008-2012 to 0.1 in 2012/2013 which is a
significant growth and gives promise for super premium
and premium jeans in the up and coming seasons.

Super premium and premium jeans

he market for denim is the most prominent it

has ever been, with rises in value of 5% in the
UK, 2% in Canada and 8% in China in 2013,
in conjunction to previous years this is a forever
growing market. With super premium heavily on the
rise, economy jeans are suffering as the more luxury
denim brands are being favoured (See appendix A for
definitions on levels of denim), for instance Levi Strauss
in China is the leading jean brand, with its pricing
exceeding super premium starting pricing as well as
United Kingdoms leading jean brand Diesel. It seems
now is the perfect time to invest in super premium,
premium sub-brands or materials as even with previous
recession internationally this market is still booming.
Although this isnt the case for Canada, its a slow
growing market for super premium jeans; with that
market peaking at 2010-2011 it looks like the super
premium jean trend is now in its laggards stage
according to the diffusion of innovations (Rogers, 2003).
With Joe Fresh being the leading jean brand in Canada

Fig 1.1 Global Super premium jeans sales from 20082013, Passport, 2014.
Movement jeans: a juxtaposition of sportswear and jean
With sportswear juxtaposing with jeans being one
of the next big innovative future trends as found in
recent market research, sports apparel as a market
has almost double for future growth in 2013-2018.
With companies like Lycra and Made Gold creating
collections dedicated to denim being worn and as
comfortable as sports apparel, thus possibly combining
both of the jean and sports apparel value in sales for
the future as these new concept jeans can be worn for

01 Denim: Market analysis

PAGE7

Fig 1.2 Global value sales of sports apparel vs

Jeans market from 2013-2018. Passport, 2014.
both sports and casual wear. A survey that we conducted
revealed that the women who are between the ages of
18 and 25 are heavily concerned about their jeans being
comfortable with 90% of women agreeing or strongly
agreeing, with the denim being mixed with Tencel the
recovery of the jean is 95% allowing it to be durable
flexible and comfortable enough to be used in sports

How much do you spend on a pair of jeans on average?

101+
81-100
66-80
46-65
36-45
26-35
11-25
0-10
I don't I swap my jeans
0.00% 5.00% 10.00% 15.00% 20.00% 25.00% 30.00% 35.00%

Primary market research

Ranked first as favourite jean..

Key findings from independent survey:

Topshop and Levi were the top two ranked jean brand
Jeans washed when dirt was visible or every other
time
36-45 most common buying price of jeans

survey the team conducted gave insight to how

the target consumer shops and and what sort
of products they want on the denim market.
From the survey the discoveries gave the consumer
a average profile. This profile is a lady who:
Wears skinny and straight leg jeans
Spends between 36-45 on them
Doesnt customise denim clothing
Calls themselves a trend follower
Top 2 favourite jean brands are Topshop and Levi

Straight leg

Jeggings

Flares

Bootcut

Skinny

Mom jean

Boyfriend jean

Cropped

Drop crotch

Dungarees

Other

Fig 1.3 Excel graphs created from a survey conducted.

Wright Mclean, O. 2014.

See Appendix B for all survey tables and graphs.

s 01 Denim: Market analysis

PAGE8

Key findings from market research:

Majority of 18-25 are students
Graduate jobs pay more
Generation Y think more about their
buying habits before they spend
Generation Y are more aware of their
shopping options and choices they
possess

Who are they?

Women aged 18-25 are more commonly
known in society as Generation Y, a
generation
whose
ideas
and
thinking
processes are not the same as those before
Generation Y are the generation that, unlike
Generation X, want to change the world
and are almost nauseatingly worthy, keen
to volunteer and aware that an education
is to be treasured (Wallop, H, 2014).
After growing up during a time where the media
choices include television, the web and magazines,
Generation Y have been opened up to much
more diverse levels of marketing strategies, and
have been socialised into consuming earlier than
previous generations (Bakewell, C and Mitchell,
V-W, 2014). This, combined with statistically

01

higher incomes, has completely changed their

decision making styles, where shopping is
not the simple act of shopping (Bakewell, C
and Mitchell, V-W, 2014). We can break these
different types of decisions into eight styles:
Price/value consciousness, a decision style that is
concerned with getting lower prices.
Perfectionism, a decision style that is concerned
with quality.
Brand consciousness, decision style that is
concerned with getting expensive, well-known
brands.
Novelty/fashion consciousness, Decision style
for seeking out new things
Habitual/brand-loyal: decision style for shopping
at the same stores and tendency to buy the same
brands each time
Recreational shopping consciousness: decision
style that views shopping as being enjoyable
Impulsive/careless: decision style that describes
a shopper who does not plan their shopping and
appears unconcerned with how much he or she
spends
Confused by over choice: decision style that
reflects a lack of confidence and an inability to
manage the number of choices available
(Kendall and Sproles, 1986)

Denim: Consumer Analysis

PAGE9

Annual income before taxes

Primary research
After conducting a survey targeted at women
aged 18-25, 50% were between the ages of 20-22,
and 62% were students with another 36% in full
time employment. 50% of those surveyed lived in
suburban areas with 66% earning up to 10,000
a year. Though this is lower than anticipated, it
is vital we take into account that the vast
majority surveyed were students. Shopping,
gym and socialising were the most common
answers when asked their three most
common activities, and the average person
spends 100 or less on apparel per month.
With regards to denim, it was indicated that 2635 was the most common amount spent on a
single pair of jeans with 11-25 coming in at a
close second, and most apparel was brought at a
High Street level. (See Appendix C for full results)
These findings indicate a change in the shopping
behaviours of this generation. With many now
turning to higher education their shopping habits
have changed due to the lack in finances and
therefore the money available to spend on higher
quality items is less of a priority. However, with
graduate entry jobs being paid more on average,
it offers higher disposable income in the long run.

30,000+
25,001 - 30,000
20,001 - 25,000
15,001 - 20,000
10,001 - 15,000
5,001-10,000
0-5,000
0%

5%

10%

15%

20%

25%

30%

35%

40%

Average Spent on Jeans

101+
81-100
66-80
46-65
36-45
26-35
11-25
0-10
I don't swap my jeans
0%

5%

10%

15%

20%

25%

30%

35%

60%

70%

What market level do you shop for?

Luxury Market
Upper Middle Market
Middle Market
High Street
Value Retailers
0%

10%

20%

30%

40%

50%

Fig. 1.4 - Graphs created from

Survey. Mayo, D. 2015

01

Denim: Consumer Analysis

PAGE10
Key Findings:
Dark wash
skinny jeans
are still popular
amoung 18-25
year olds.
Fig 2.1 - Canadian Street Style,
Della Mattia, A. 2014

Name: Kristin
Age: 23
Occupation:
Shop Assitant
Favourite pair
of Denim: Dark
Mom Jean

Fig 2.2 - Canadian Street Style,

Della Mattia, A. 2014

Name: Louis
Age: 21
Occupation:
Model
Favourite pair of
jeans: Ripped
Boyfriend Jean

Fig 2.3 - Canadian Street Style,

Della Mattia, A. 2015

Name: Georgia
Age: 18
Occupation:
Student
Favourite pair
of Denim: Light
Wash Skinny
Jean

Fig 2.4 - Canadian Street Style,

Della Mattia, A. 2015

Name: Leanna
Age: 22
Occupation:
Student
Favourite pair
of Denim: Small
Denim Shorts

Light wash,
dristressed
Dungarees
are worn as a
statement peice
with heels and
accesories. Not
so casual.

Light wash
skinny jeans
are a micro
trend within
North America.
Typically with
silver hardwear
(ie zippered
ankles).
High waisted
distressed
denim shorts
in a variety of
washes are
macro trends
within North
America. Worn
casual or
dressed up.

02 North American Street style

PAGE11
Key Findings
Diverse Range of
washes on various
Denim garments.
Fig 2.5 - UK Street Style Manchester,
Mayo, D and Roberts Z. 2014

Name: Leanna
Age: 21
Occupation:
Fashion Stylist
Favourite pair of
Denim: Simple
Black Skinny
Jean

Fig 2.6 - UK Street Style Manchester,

Mayo, D and Roberts, Z. 2014

Name: Kirsty
Age: 22
Occupation:
Nurse
Favourite pair
of jeans: Twotoned Skinny
Jean

Shirts, Jeans
and Jackets,
Double
Denim is all
the range for
all specified
consumer

The majority
of the target
market
where skinny
jeans in this
demographic

Fig 2.7 - UK Street Style Nottingham,

Wright Mclean, O and Mayo, D. 2014

Name: Melissa
Age: 19
Occupation:
Fashion Student
Favourite pair
of Denim: Acid
Wash Fadded
Jacket

02

Fig 2.8 - UK Street Style Nottingham,

Wright Mclean, O and Mayo, D. 2014

Name: Courtney
Age: 20
Occupation:
Media Student
Favourite pair of
Denim: Skinny
White Jean

Denim is
worn in an
everydaycasual
attire and
layered up with
other various
apparel

Europe Street style

PAGE12

Key Findings:

Skinny jeans are very

popular among this
demographic in Hong Kong
. It creates a feminine
aesthetic.
Fig 2.9, Hong Kong Street
Style, Lofberg, P. 2013

Name: Carly
Age: 22
Occupation: Clerk
Favourite pair of jeans:
Stone Washed Skinny jeans

Fig 2.10 - Hong Kong Street

Style, Anon. 2015

For the top, a

oversized and loose
boyfriend style Jackest is
for must-have item.

Name: Cody
Age: 23
Occupation: Hair
stylist
Favourite pair of jeans:
Printed Denim jacket

Stone Washed
Stretch Skinny Jeans
provides the sense of
comfort, that is perfect for
aid back holidays.
Fig 2.11 - Cotton Padded
Denim jacket, Anon. 2015

Name: Helen
Age: 19
Occupation: Student
Favourite Denim Iterms:
Oversized Denim
Jacket

02

Fig 2.12 - Hong Kong Street

Style, Anon. 2015

Plain indigo dyed

denim clothing
formulates a day-to-day
dressing.

Name: Karen
Age: 23
Occupation: Quality
Control Coordinator
Favourite pair of jeans:
Ripped Skinny jeans

Hong Kong Street style

PAGE13

Fig 3.5 - Peace New Era Cotton

Denim Cap. Stylenana, 2014

Fig 3.3 - Blue wash denim

jacket. Ridsnap, 2014

Fig 3.4 - Unknown, Cafe Naver,

2014

Fig 3.1 - Dyed Denim Shorts.

Pinterest, 2014

Fig 3.2 - Chemical Dye Jackets. Pinterest, 2014

apanese influences are continuing to spread

with the trend of Harajuku has occupied the
entire Asia pacific recently, being adopted
by more and more teenagers. The story takes
its inspiration from an Asia aesthetic. Even
though the look originates from japan, it is
now a fusion of Chinese, Japanese and Korean.
This trend makes great use of denim, denim
jacket, jeans, accessories and tops. The
signature item must be dip- dyed denim or
jeans with powdery degrade effect, which
merges two colours together in usual.
Powdery colours combined with sweet
brights bring a whole new interpretation.

shoulders, cuffs or collar with ethnic

patterned fabric interprets the folk style.
Embroidery at back
Customised denim jacket is one of the musthave items about the trend of Haraguku.
Denim jacket with a chain stitch embroidery
gives the jacket an extra dimension.
Alphanumeric prints
A representative brand for Harajuku trend is
Stylenanda , a Korean brand.
Alphanumeric prints could be traced whether
denim accessories, tops and bottoms.

Silhouette
With a more is more aesthetic inspires bold The idiosyncratic silhouettes, cropped length,
pattern, pints and lots of embellishments on oversized and loose boyfriend style, distinguish
the denim with youthful confidence. Elements the trend.
includes alphanumeric prints, ethnic prints,
cartoon print, placement print, patchwork, Iconic celebrity:
embroidery and dip dyed create truly Hong Kong signer, Heidi
unique spirited for enlightened individuals. Korean Signer, G-dragon
Patchwork
Western early adopters :
Adding colours to the denim jacket with Rita ora, Alex Chung, Kate perry and Gwen
usage of different fabric and contrast Stefan
colours trims in an interesting way, covering

03 International: Asia

Fig 4.3 - Met Jeans Hem. WGSN, 2014

Fig 4.4 - Marques Almedia for Topshop. Vogue, 2014

Fig 4.2 - Louis Vuitton Store Window. WGSN, 2014

Fig 4.1 - Guess Jeans, WGSN, 2014

PAGE14

This season has seen many aspects of retail embrace denim in a variety which has
never been seen before. There have never been quite so many options on the high street
available for customers. From extreme customisation to premium coatings, denim is no
longer a predominantly basic factor in the fashion world. Here is a breakdown of key
trends from this season, which are likely to continue to be updated in following seasons.

04 International: Europe

PAGE15
Fig 4.5 - Maison Scotch Trucker Jacket. WGSN, 2014

Fig 4.6- N&J Longline Coat. WGSN, 2014 Fig 4.7 - Denim Quilted Bomber. Gap, 2015

re customized denim is currently seen

in all shapes, styles and sizes. Brands
such as Guess are taking on the rock chic
approach whereas Louis Vuitton recreates the
boyfriend jeans with feminine lace and Met
Jeans bedazzle their hems with diamantes and
beads. These aspect have begun to trickle there
way down to the high street stores and
onto the streets of the UK. They have
allowed consumers who do not yet
have the confidence to customise
their own denim to be part of
an ever growing trend across
the country. As it trickles down
we see stores such as Topshop
taking on this customisation
aspect, especially within their
previous collaboration with
Marques Almedia, which took
on Extreme shredding, an update
to the ripped jeans which made an
appearance on the high street back in
S/S 14. These suggest that there will only be
further developments in this trend as we go
through the next seasons, with Generation
Y becoming more and more separated from
other generations and wanting to express
themselves in a much more exaggerated fashion.

this season, seeing the traditional denim jacket

moved forwards into Trucker jackets, long line
coats, and quilted bombers. These developments
have been progressive, but have made their way
into high street stores after working through
brands such as Maison Scotch and N&J. They
each take a different approaches with regards to
practicality, with trucker jackets having a
cosy feel and long line jackets having
a wool like feel. This development
on such a classic again suggests
Generation Ys constant state of
change and the changes they
want to make in the world.

UK Retail
Trends

Outerwear

Premium Coating

Premium coating has been around

for a year or so now, and still shows
no sign of moving. From premium
denim brands to value high street stores, there
are many variations across all market levels. The
technique adds a pearlescent effect, and brings a
new lease of life to the simpler skinny fit of jean.
This unique feel brings denim up to another
level, almost asif it were a new fabric. This trend
has been accepted quickly within Generation Y
and looks set to continue through future seasons.

Denim cover ups have also taken an update

04 International: Europe

Fig. 5.5 - MANGO January 2013 Lookbook. Krezic. 2014.

Fig 5.1. - Au Jour Le Jour Catwalk Spring/Summer 2015. Anon. 2014.

Fig 5.6 - Various Denim Fashion Style. Fashion Expert. 2014.

Fig 5.4. - StyleDish: 19 Of Dolly Partons Most Fanciful

Sleeves. Bryan C. 2013.

Fig. - Double Denim Diva! 8.5 Photos That Prove Rihanna Brought
Back The Canadian tuxedo. Hislop R. 2014

Fig. 5.2 Diesel Catwalk Autumn/Winter 2014-15 . Anon. 2014.

Fig. 5.9 - Before she was Material Girl. Tucker R. 2013.

Fig. 5.8 - Madame De Rosa. Dosal I. 2014.

Fig.5.7 - Zoe Saldana Masters Denim-on-Denim. Cardellino C. 2013.

PAGE16

05 International: North America

PAGE17
For many years, the Canadian Tuxedo
was viewed as an offish combo. In 1951,
when Levis made Crooner Bing Crosby a
customized tuxedo jacket for being denied
entry in a Canadian hotel, for wearing headto-toe denim, the Canadian Tuxedo term was
born. For women, denim trends began with
workwear, to western-cowboy, to rebellious,
to fitted and now, young women thrive
for a balance between chic and relaxed-fit.
In between seasons, AW14/15 and SS15,
designers such as Gucci, Chloe, Diesel, Fendi
and Marques Almeida, have displayed the
Canadian Tuxedo trend throughout
their catwalk shows. While double
denim has been seen as a
fashion failit seems fashion
houses are keen to change
our perception (London,
B, 2014). This evolving
trend, from combinations
of feminine and masculine;
formal and active; with
added customization, are
becoming the outfits of choice
for young women. Young
professional women in the very
early stages of their career are wearing
more tailored, feminine variations of the
Canadian Tuxedo, whereas younger women in
college are experimenting with more relaxed
boyfriend-fits of the denim-on-denim ensemble.
Fashion-forward celebrities, followed by young
women today, such as the Kardashians, Miley
Cyrus, and Olivia Palermo have been spotted
numerous amounts of times in 2014, wearing
their versions of the Canadian Tuxedo. The
most common denim-on-denim trend is the
button-front denim shirt in a much lighter
blue, most likely made from the chambray
fabric and worn tucked in or just at the front,
paired with a darker wash pair of skinny
jeans. This forecoming A/W 15/16, however,
will be about trying to pair a denim top with
a bottom that is looser in fit, making the
Canadian Tuxedo appear more masculine and
trying to get the wash identical throughout.
The creativity of the denim-on-denim

ensemble varies from each individual, by

mixing and matching different washes, styles
and silhouettes, to keeping the same tone
throughout the outfit. People are becoming
less afraid to experiment with the endless
variations of the Canadian Tuxedo and
experiment with patchwork, embellishments
and deconstructed looks for added interest..
Fashion blogger and founder of Want Her
Wardrobe, Lydia Jones, said: A few short
years ago, wearing double denim was the
most uncool thing ever but fashion bloggers
and street stylists changed that and it seems
the big fashion houses and even the
high street are slowly catching
on. (London, B. 2014)
The reason for the
Canadian
Tuxedo
reinvention has been
as a result of denim
making a fashionable
return
on
the
catwalks,
although
it has never been out
of style, the thought
put into making denim
ensembles more unique
from top to bottom and has
been more encouraged by fashion
innovators. Although denim-on-denim
styling is nothing new, the fashion capitals
were alive with modern interpretations
of the classic look (WGSN, 2013).
The famous 2001 incident, when Britney
Spears and Justin Timberlake came out in
matchy-matchy double denim look may
have gone down as one of the biggest fashion
faux pas in history but it seems that the style
shocker is coming back (London, B, 2014).
It is as though they were envisioning the
future for denim because the once-frowned
upon outfit and current micro trend will be
evolving into a macro trend by A/W 15/16
and expected contemporary versions will be
available in stores as early as September 2015.

Canadian
Tuxedo

05 International: North America

PAGE18

Key Trends
Three key trends that have been identified for the coming
seasons include Boy Meets Girl, a focus on the closing
gender gap and silhouettes, whilst also looking back
on previous vintage styles such as double denim and
The Mom jean. We then move onto Rebel Jean, which
demonstrates the rebelious nature of Generation Y with
its customisation of denim, reflecting the consumers
individual personalities. Movement then focuses on
both the physical movement of denim and the change
in direction structure and fibers are taking. It focuses
on two very different extremes of raw denim and Lycra
enhanced, both of which execute their own unique flare.

Fig 6.1 - Painted Denim , Jacob, J, 2014

Fig 6.2 - Demin Editorial: Glamour , Jacob,

J, 2014

Fig 6.3 - Introducing MADE GOLD, Goldschmeid,

M, 2014

07 Trends

PAGE19

Fig. - 6.4 -Charasmatic Head Shots, Ian Berry, 2013

PAGE20

Boy meets girl

Relaxed, boyfriend-inspired fits are continuously being reinvented for
girls within mom jeans, boyfriend jeans and denim shirts. Street style
and catwalks continue to develop innovative looks for the classic pieces
by customising and pairing them equally looser or slimmer pieces,
depending on how effortlessly chic they wish their look to be.

05 International: North America 0

PAGE21
The Mom Jean

n the past, the straight leg and

the skinny leg have been the top
tier of denim fashion but recently
there has been a new jean added to
the mix: The Mom Jean. The Mom
Jean, as seen in figure 6.5, typically
is high-waisted, baggy, and slightly
distressed in wash. Although denim
designers are quickly picking up
this trend, consumers are turning to
vintage stores and their mothers closets
to grasp this look, hence where the
name Mom Jeans is derived from.
The Levi Strauss 501 and 505 are the
most sought after. These denim designs
were last popular in the 1990s but with
the recent Mom Jean phenomenon,
vintage stores cannot hold onto a pair.
Retail outlets such as TopShop, River
Island, Urban Outfitters, and Zara have
already started to market the Mom
Jean and Designers such as Alexander
Wang, Rachel Comey, DKNY, Thommy
Hilfiger, and 3.1 Phillip Lim all
showed mom jeans on the New York
Womens Spring/Summer runways.
Celebrities such as Camille Rowe,
Sofia Sanchez Barrenechea, Laura
Love, Barbara Martelo, Miley Cyrus,
Katie Holmes, The Kardashians, and
Keira Knightly have all been spotted
wearing the new denim craze. Stylists
Vanessa Traina Snow, who admits
to recently wearing her mothers old
501s, says Each [vintage] pair has a
story because someone before you has
worn them in a certain way or tailored
them in a certain way. I mean, they
really are mom jeans (Holt, E. 2014 ).
The mom jean as of now is a micro
trend and will be advancing to
a marco trend in the upcoming

06 Boy meets girl

Fig 6.5 - Maison Martin Margeila Pre Fall 2015. Anon, 2015.

06 Boy meets girl 0

Fig. 6.12- Louis Vuitton Catwalk Spring/Summer 2014. Anon. 2013.

Fig. 6.13 - Ashish Catwalk Spring/Summer 2014. Anon. 2013.

Fig. - 6.9 - Jean Paul Gaultier Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2015 Paris. Templeton L. Fig. 6.14 -CLIFFS NOTES: 13.5 Things We Learned From The Infamous September Issues
2014.
Hislop R. 2012.

Fig. 6.11 - Definitive Proof That Mom Jeans ARE Stylish. Gozalez A. 2014.

Fig. - 6.10 - Fig. - Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Spring/Summer 2015. Anon. 2014.

Fig 6.6- TOPSHOP UNIQUE LONDON SPRING / SUMMER 2014 FASHION SHOW.Admin. 2013.

Fig. - 6.8 -Philip Lim Catwalk Spring/Summer 2015. Anon. 2014.

Fig 6.7 - Caroline Brasch Nielsen Classic Street Style. Anon. 2013.

PAGE22

PAGE23

F/W season. These designs will be available

to the retailer and online in June/July of 2015.

add the Canadian Tuxedo onto their collections.

The classic denim shirt is currently being updated with

The Boyfriend Jean
different shapes and hemlines, especially for a young
woman, who appreciates details that add edge and
Around the year 2009, women were seen wearing attitude. High-low hemlines create modern form
more slouchy, baggy, and blockish styles. This (WGSN, 2014). This is apparent in spring/summer
denim trend has been designed to hang off the waist 2015 catwalks with Roberto Cavalli and Marques
of the wearer make their ankles look tiny (when hem Almedias denim shirts. The men-inspired shirt is
rolled). Since this trend has been around for many becoming an exceptionally oversized, boyfriend-fit,
years, almost every designer has taken full advantage while still maintaining feminine flare. Students are
and made a pair of their own for their consumers. wearing denim shirts opened over tops or dresses,
buttoned-up over skirts or
Although boyfriend jeans have
pants, and customized. Young
been around for some time now,
professional women starting their
Designers are still adding the fit
careers, are seen wearing denim
to their collections. During the
shirts under sweaters, tucked into
2014 Milan Runway, Designers
pants, but still slightly oversized.
such as Emporio Armani,
Fendi, and Gucci were all seen
Chambray is one of the most
still parading the boyfriend
common fabrics used to construct
look up and down the catwalk.
denim shirts today. Chambray
The boyfriend jeans are a
uses a white weft and indigo
macro trend and is predicted
warp to create a fabric that looks
to stay a macro trend for the
similar to denim, yet is much
upcoming F/W season. These
lighter. (Rawr Denim, N.D)).
designs are already sold in stores
The once-dull style, reserved
and online. New styles will be
for blue-collar men is now
seen in early june/july 2015.
being altered and customized by
designers such as MiH Jeans, Jean
The Canadian Tuxedo also
Paul Gaultier, and many more.
known as denim on denim, was made famous by Upcoming innovative versions of the revolutionary
Bing Crosby in 1951. During this time denim was denim shirt will be expected again by late July/August
wore by the Bad Boys and was never seen as a 2015, online and in-store, just in time for Autumn.
fashion trend. Since then, designers have been known
to sport this look on and off the runways. Bernhard
Willhelm, Tom Ford, Christopher Lemaire, Bottega
Veneta, Chlo, and Gucci have all been known to

Boy
meets
girl

06 Boy meets girl

PAGE24

Rebel Jean
Customisation of decorative treatments and elements of demin
include needlework and print, raw edge, ripped and patched.
Upcoming trends are picked up on streets and designers label
ready-to-wear collections.

07

Rebel jean

PAGE25

07

Rebel jean

Fig 7.1 Street style patchwork, Jacob.J 2015.

PAGE26

Destroyed
vs
Intricate

Fig 7.2. Street style women wearing raw edge denim shirt and
jacket. Anon, 2014.

Fig 7.3. Painted denim back pocket on jean. Anon, n.d.

Part one Intricate: Needlework and Print

Fully-embellished with playful surface decoration, boldly colourful graphic patches, are intensively
layered and placed. The eye-popping placements amplify a more quirky, youthful edge and rule-breaking
attitude. Denim pieces embellished with checked fabric, leather and different washes of denim to create
colour blocking to create denim with personality, the patch-and-repair and fabric combinations enhance
the uniqueness of the garment. Although the survey undertaken doesnt support consumers customising
clothes themselves with 85% of consumers not customising this doesnt necessarily mean they dont
want them already customised. This suggests the majority of consumers want the ease of shop bought
customisation. Though some brands such as Levi already stock customisation/fix it kits, allowing the
consumer to have longer lasting and personalised denim, to appeal to both the intricate and destroyed trend.

07

Rebel jean

PAGE27

d.

Fig 7.4 Sonia Rykiels Prefall

2015 collection, Anon, 2015.

Fig 7.6. India Rose blogger

wear raw edge denim tshirt.
Anon, n.d.

Fig 7.5 Street style doing canadian tuxedo

and patched/ripped denim. Ton.T, n.d.
Part two destroyed: Raw Edge, Ripped and Patched

The destroyed jean is a macro trend which is evolving from the ripped jean, which is currently a trend
thats fading out of the mainstream stage. The damaged jean consists of raw edged jean giving white
woven cotton within the denim a chance to contrast with the vivid indigo jeans giving it a rock-n-roll
carefree feel. This coincists with the consumer demographic of a carefree lifestyle and rebellious edge.
Patched jeans are the trend consequence for the ripped jean, with an ethical way to give your jeans a fresh new look
by simply sewing a patch (or providing sewing patch kits) thus giving your jeans a second life, as its important
to the consumer to be on trend. The worn look on these jeans are vital with its mismatched wash patches.

07

Rebel jean

PAGE28

Movement
Movement combines both the change in the direction of denim along
with the physical dimensions of the fabric. In this issue we focus on the
rising demand for both raw denim and denim that moves with your
body, for opposite ends of the spectrum.

08 Movement

PAGE29

Fig 8.1 - Invista Lycra, Denimology, 2014

PAGE30

The Rise of Raw Denim

With the innovative revolution that is

the rise of Raw denim jeans it is likely
this new trend trickled down from
larger brands will take the stores by
storm and will be a chosen attire this
season. Ironically placing raw denim
in the movement trend that has been
identified, they are controversially
known to be the thickest and toughest
of jeans, once used to the heftiness of
this thick material the wearer will realise
they are the comfiest and worthwhile
purchase they will have ever made.

08 Movement

Fig 8.4- G- Star Raw denim on the catwalkGeller, L. (2014).

Fig 8.3- DSquared. -Levverton, A. Trotman, S. (2014).

PAGE31

Raw Denim

Fig 8.5- Sibling Levverton, A. Trotman, S. (2014).

Fig 8.6- Milan Levverton, A. Trotman, S. (2014).

The Rise of Raw Denim Part 1:

tarting small and simple in skinny is the recommendation in a first time

purchasing for Raw denim. As generally you will find the Light weight Raw
denim in slimmer skinnier jeans. They are much more comfortable and the
easiest of the three main categories to wear and will not require as much wearing
time as a heavier fabric to attain a pleasant and pleasurable level of comfort.
Is mid-weight the right fit for your target customer? The most common of the
raw denims in the market today not only will the mid fade better, last longer,
it will be warmer in the colder months. Even though the mid weight will take
longer to break and become flexible it is definitely worth the weight and wait.

08 Movement

Fig 8.6-. Alex Bottenburg. Levverton, A. Trotman, S. (2014)

PAGE32

Fig 8.7-Minu. Levverton, A. Trotman, S. (2014).

And now to the definitive final

piece, the monster of the raw
denim market otherwise known
as the heavyweight. Reaching
up to 32oz it would take real
commitment, time and effort to
make these a comfort to wear
nevertheless the reward of would
be worth the while. It ultimately
comes down to the thickness of
the fabric to determine the result
of the fade, Tougher the fabric
the better the fade of raw denim.
According to the denim hunters
blog brands such as Naked and
famous, nudie jeans and Indigofera
already include raw denim in there
jeans collection. The decision to
go with which weight is down
to what suits your consumer,
the heavier the weight the better
the overall result and fade.

The Rise of Raw

Denim

08 Movement

Fig 8.9 - XFIT LYCRA in indigo wash , INVISTA, 2014

Invista

PAGE33

Fig 8.11- XFIT LYCRA in light wash , INVISTA, 2014

Fig 8.10 - Lycra XFit, Lycra, 2014

Fig 8.12 - Levis Revel, Huffington Post, 2013

The Innovation of LYCRA Part 2:

n the opposite direction, we see materials entering the market that will revolutionise denimwear. In
collaboration with LYCRA, INVISTA have have created a denim fabric which not only moves with the wearers
body easier than any other, but also keeps its retention and shape after multiple wears unlike some fabrics.
Todays consumer wants fashion and style whilst also having comfort and durability. The lastest denim fabric
is made with LYCRA T 400, a fiber which can be knit or woven in its bare state into garment (Argwal, S). The
typical LYCRA elastane content of around 2-4%, whereas the typical LYCRA T 400 fiber content can be around
10-25%. This is due to the fact that LYCRA T 400 actually provides less stretch and recovery than LYCRA elastane.
Continuing with the theme of comfort, INVISTAs XFIT Lycra fabric which was introduced in 2006 reappeared
at Premium Denim runway shows in 2013 and is moving its way into the market. The material provides 360
comfort and fit, allowing freedom and movement to all shapes and sizes whilst also having 90 percent retention,
which is what prevents the jeans from sagging and losing shape. The recent campaign of LYCRA MOVES YOU
shows the true potential of this fabric, the ability to dance and flex ones body whilst the denim moves with it.
Taking influences from denim brand DL1961, for whom XFIT LYCRA is a favourite,
the material can be created into various colour, weights, washes and textures
(INVISTA) making it a versatile and desirable fabric for the coming seasons.

08 Movement

PAGE34
With the denim industry booming, Designers
are trying to find a way to spruce up their
creations. Denim designers have been focusing
on hardware, switching, dyed weft yarns, and
new and innovative washes to help set their
brand apart from the rest. The 2014 NYC Denim
Market Week that took place at the end of January
showed potential customers what their brand has
been able to achieve through their denim details.
Hardwear
Although denim hardware does not drastically
change the overall appeal of the garment,
Designers have chosen to focus on
buttons, rivets, and leather patches
to allow for more differentiation.

washes to run over lighter leather to form a tie-dye

effect. Naked and Famous, 3sixteen, Left Field, Big
John, Eat Dust, and Shockoe denim have all been
showing large leather patches with/without the brands
logo on the back right side of their merchandise. Fig
9.1 shows these brands and their leather patches.
Although the denim industry is focusing on
hardware as one of the ways to spruce up their
designs, could hardware also be a dying sector?
Jeggings and active denim are becoming key trends
and these products do not necessarily use hardware
to help produce the product. Active denim is a
lighter oz denim and will not necessarily need
heavy zips and rivets and jeggings do not
require this kind of hardware either.

Denim
details

The most recent button

trend that has been
spotted is the vintage
donut button. In recent
years, recycled denim
and vintage denim has
become more and more
of a demand among
consumers. By adding
the vintage donut button,
companies have helped give
their customers an overall
vintage denim look. Denim
Brand 3sixteen has focused on
updating their front zip button. The brand
opted for a traditional vintage donut button. Fig
9.2 shows their new hardware on their 11oz denim.

The up and coming rivet trends is unpinched or

hidden rivets. Unpinched rivets happen when the
top rivet is not set and denim is exposed whereas
hidden rivets happen when the rivet is pinched inside
the denim article. By hiding the rivets, this gives the
article a smoother look while keeping the denim from
tearing or pulling. As seen in Fig 9.3, 3sixteen has
unpinched rivets, again done on their 11oz denim.
Leather patches have been more visible on denim
pants. Although in the past the patch was used to
display the brands logo, the leather patch has now
been made to help the overall look of the denim and
some brands just leave the patch blank to allow darker

09

Stitching

Contrast stitching trends

are
becoming
more
apparent
throughout
the denim industry on
darker washes. Golds,
yellows, and even light
grey stitching are being
used to add character
to the denim. Brands like
Shockoe denim, Naturel
Selection,
Baldwin,
Eat
Dust, 3sixteen, and Japan
Blue and Momotaro have all
shown contrast stitching while at
the 2014 NYC Denim Market Week. Fig
9.4 shows these brands and their merchandise.
Coloured Weft Yarn
Denim designers have been seen recently with a
weft yarn preference. A dyed weft yarn allows for
fashionably rolling your denim cuffs. Japan Blue
and Momotaro has created a grey weft yarn with
a mid-tone wash whereas Naked and Famous has
created a multi-coloured weft yarn with a dark
wash to add some vibrancy to their design. Fig 9.5
shows these weft yarns as shown at market week.
New and Innovated Wash Japan Blue and
Momotaro has used green tea to help with the
tints of their denim. Fig 9.6 shows a denim
shirt that has been dyed with green tea to allow
a small green tint to their mid-tone wash.

The small things

PAGE35
Fig 9.1 - NYC Market Week Denim (AUTUMN/WINTER 2014)

Fig 9.6 - NYC Market Week Denim (Japan Blue

and Momotaro AUTUMN/WINTER 2014)

Fig 9.3 - NYC Market

Week Denim
(3sixteen AUTUMN/
WINTER 2014)

Fig 9.2 - NYC Market Week Denim (3sixteen AUTUMN/WINTER 2014)

Fig 9.5 - NYC Market Week Denim (AUTUMN/WINTER 2014)

Fig 9.4 - NYC Market Week Denim (AUTUMN/WINTER 2014)

09

The small things

PAGE36

a designer I design for aesthetics and dont

have the aim to a specific customer. Some
are designed and never make it to sell. For
example the Soul Train range, wide fit
jeans that comes off the peak of the bum,
these jeans need to wait for the perfect
time to release them which I feel is Spring.
What is your best selling womens jean?
Skinny and silhouette. The silhouette fit is
slimmer in leg but extra stretch and theyre
high rise darker washes sell best. Jeggings are
killing them, not correct fitting for women.
What is the peanut jean?
Peanut jeans were influenced by the sales
team as organic jeans were down 25% so none
organic jeans was the solution. We are in the
process of getting rid of the peanut jean.

Fig 10 Phil Wildbore holding Stop taking the P mug. Wright Mclean, O. 2015.

n an exclusive eye opening interview

with the Managing director and designer
of Monkey Genes we had an extensive
insight into the
sheer expertise and
thoughtfulness
placed
into
everything he does
within the company.
Phil Wildbore the
managing director
and designer of Monkee Genes, is a self
confessed jean guru and enthusiast and has
been for the last 30 years, had a lot to say in the
loss of craftsmanship within jeans and stopping
slave labour within the manufacturing industry.

The best goddamn

jean you will ever
have.

So what is your Stop taking the pennies about?

Well what first inspired me to create a
foudnation and campaign about stopping slave
labour within garment manufacturing, was the
2013 Rana plaza disater, whereby 1,100 workers
died. This accident couldve been prevented if
retailers who support slave labour ensured
that the manufactures provided a good wage
and safe working enrivonment it couldve
all been prevented. By doing this campaign I
hope to spread awareness to consumers and
prevent such a disaster happening again. To
advertise the campaign were having celebrities
such as Eric Clapton and his wife and a Rolling
stones wife is supporting us too, just to name
few. I have trustees for the campaign who are
the Superdry owner and Gov bank of englands
wife who are also involved. To advertise the

Why did you call it Monkee Genes?

Man evolved from monkeys and I
wanted to present the evolution of jeans.
Whats your favourite pair of jeans?
Right
now,
Monkee
jeans,
I
can design the jeans for myself.
When I was younger 501 Levis, I used
them to garden with and after they had
a worn look I used to wear them out.
Who would you say is target consumer?
I dont design with someone in mind, as

10

Fig 10.1 Stop taking the P logo. Monkey Genes, 2015.

campaign we are having a mug manufactured in

Staffordshire mills, made from fine bone china

Stop taking the P

PAGE37
up for and become your favourite. They are
the best goddamn jean you will ever have.
Another are the jeans which are weaved with
black yarn to esure density of colour. There
are zips on either pocket and at the ankles, I
chose these zips because theyre not bling but
they are hard but also not chunky and manly.
And the final are the damaged/ripped jeans
although the rips are sealed with satine
to provide comfort and durability of the
hole not being able to get any bigger. They
are also hand ripped to ensure quality.
Are you planning on manufacturing to North
America?
Canada is complicated you need licenses and
the economics dont work,, there is a huge
import tax which means Id have to increase the
wholesale price. Although I am trying and have
two people lined up to help me with Canada.

Fig 10.2 Tencel womens jean with selvedge. Wright Mclean, O. 2015

for 15 and all proceeding go to the campaign.

Where would you say you lie within the denim
industry and who are your competitors?
Well we are up against Edwins and Diesel
and were selling in Globus Switzerland,
Selfridges, Buying corp in Holland and
were having meetings with House of
Fraser with talk of supplying to their
stores. So Id say were premium jeans.
What are your up and coming jeans that you
believe has the most potential?
After discovering the revolutionary Tencel
fabric that is made from ecucalptus fibres that
is also grown sustainably and has amazing
durability and recovery (which makes your
bum still look good after washes and uses).
We are currently making our womens jeans
with 60% cotton with a Tencel mix, the
pockets are specially made to give the woman
clean cut hips. I also designed adequately sized
pockets and made them high waisted to make
women in proportion. To give the product
that luxurious element the jeans are selvedge,
which is how all jeans used to be made in
the beginning, and there priced at 120-145.
Selvedge jeans are the type of jeans you save

10

Fig 10.3 Details on the inside of the jeans. Wright Mclean, O. 2015.

Stop taking the P

PAGE38
Whats your unique selling point?
Well the fact the whole company is built
around well thought out design, care for the
final product and ensuring we don;t support
slave labour. Every single pair of jeans has the
factory workers name imprinted on the care
label and respect for individual and No slave
labour, no child labour, no blood, no sweat,
no tears imprinted on the inside of the jean.

, Roberts.Z , Mayo.D, et al. Nottingham

Trent University,
14th January 2015.

To make sure my jeans are perfect I ask my

PR Natasha and all my employees try the
jeans on and give me their honest opinion.
The best part of that is giving my interns
a pair of jeans at the end of their stay and
something changes in their face when they put
them on, like they have a stride in their step.
Monkee Genes campaign for stop taking the
P can be seen on https://www.monkeegenes.
com/auxpage_stop-taking-the-p where you
can show your support and join their mailing
list and buying a mug in the foreseeable future.
Fig 10.5. Team kilt with Phil Wildbore. Wright Mclean, O. 2015.

Fig 10.4 Rana Plaza disaster poster, Monkey Genes, 2015.

Wildbore. P., 2015. Phil Wildbore,

Managing director and designer of Monkee
Genes: Interview with Wright Mclean.O

10

Stop taking the P

PAGE39
With Monkee Genes Stop taking the P
campaign inspiring this issue of KILT magazine
we thought we should identify other brands in
various market sectors that have also took on the
responsibility of a more ethical ethos. Here is our
top 3 ethical denim campaigns over the past few
years that are still striving to make a difference
today.

1. Levi- 8 bottle 1 Jean

First appearing to the market in February of
2013 Levis 8 bottle 1 jeans campaign is still just
as fascinating and innovative in todays culture.
Transforming an everyday piece of trash into a
luxury high end piece of denim attire Levi states
they use a minimum of 20% post-consumer
recycled content, from an average of 8 plastic
bottles.
During the spring of 2013, well repurpose over
3.5 million recycled pet plastic bottlesand this
is just the beginning.

Fig 11.1 Levi 8 Bottles 1 Jean Campaign. Anon. (2014).

2. G- Star-Raw for the ocean

3. H and M Conscious Denim

An eccentric way to inspire the younger

generation of today is the G- stars Raw for the
Ocean campaign curated by artist and music
inspiration Pharrel Willams. A simple yet clever
way to help marine life is this this brands unique
story of helping the environment establishing
in 2011. A process of retrieving plastic from the
shore preventing it going into the ocean but also
using the waste material to produce recycled
denim for their unique sustainable collection
is inventive and the campaign itself extremely
consistent.
Denim from recycled ocean plastic Wear the
responsibility for big blue

Not forgetting the high street, stereotypically a

market known for manufacturing at a reduced
cost, H&M proves this overview wrong. Even
though this high street retailer is not just specific
to denim the Conscious range does look into using
organic and ethical raw materials. With reference
to denim this brand uses a majority of recycled
cotton and is continuing to grow in this field ever
since the campaign launched in 2012

11

At H&M, we have set ourselves the challenge

of ultimately making fashion sustainable and
sustainability fashionable.
Karl-Johan Persson, CEO

Being Good

PAGE40

Word count 4947

PAGE41

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PAGE42

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fashion-shows/pre-fall-2015/mm6-maison-martin-margiela/collection [Accessed: 20/1/15]
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com/2013/03/caroline-brasch-nielsen-classic-street.html. Last accessed 20th Jan 2015.
Fig 6.8 - Anon. (2014). 3.1 Philip Lim.[online] Available: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/readyto-wear/3-1-phillip-lim. Last accessed 20th Jan 2015.
Fig 6.9 - Templeton L. (2014). Jean Paul Gaultier Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2015 Paris.[online] Available: http://
nowfashion.com/jean-paul-gaultier-ready-to-wear-spring-summer-2015-paris-10939. Last accessed 22th Jan 2015.
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ready-to-wear/dolce-and-gabbana . Last accessed 20th Jan 2015.
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whowhatwear.com/mom-jeans-11. Last accessed 22nd Jan 2015.
Fig 6. 12 - Anon. (2013). Louis Vuitton.[online] Available: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2014/
ready-to-wear/louis-vuitton. Last accessed 20th Jan 2015.
Fig 6. 13 - Anon. (2013). Ashish.[online] Available: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2014/ready-towear/ashish. Last accessed 20th Jan 2015.
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tumblr.com/post/74049535865/mindlikeahurricane-raw [Accessed: 20/1/15]

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Fig 7.3. Anon, n.d. Painted denim back pocket on jean. [online] Available from: http://eatsleepdenim.com/blog/
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15, 2014 Available from: http://www.style.com/street/top-looks/2014/street-style-denim-on-denim [Accessed: 20/1/15]
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Fig 8.10 - INVISTA, 2014. INVISTA and Lenzing work together to bring improved performance to cellulosic denim
fabrics [Photograph] New York: INVISTA
Fig 8.11 - Leibowtiz, L, 2013. Levis Shapewear Jeans will Give You Lift, Huffington Post [online] 7th September. Available from: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/07/09/levis-shapewear-jeans-photos_n_3568385.html [Accessed: 10th
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Fig 9.3 - Shuck, D. (2014). NYC Market Week Denim Recap.[online] Available: http://www.rawrdenim.com/2014/01/
nyc-market-week-denim-recap-autumnwinter-2014/. Last accessed 27th November 2014.
Fig 9.4 - Shuck, D. (2014). NYC Market Week Denim Recap.[online] Available: http://www.rawrdenim.com/2014/01/
nyc-market-week-denim-recap-autumnwinter-2014/. Last accessed 27th November 2014.
Fig 9.5 -Shuck, D. (2014). NYC Market Week Denim Recap. [online]Available: http://www.rawrdenim.com/2014/01/
nyc-market-week-denim-recap-autumnwinter-2014/. Last accessed 27th November 2014.
Fig 9.6 - Shuck, D. (2014). NYC Market Week Denim Recap.[online] Available: http://www.rawrdenim.com/2014/01/
nyc-market-week-denim-recap-autumnwinter-2014/. Last accessed 27th November 2014.
Fig 10. Authors own image, Wright Mclean, O. 2015. Phil Wildbore holding Stop taking the P mug.
Fig 10.1 Monkey Genes, 2015. Stop taking the P logo. [online] Available from: http://www.monkeegenes.com/auxpage_
stop-taking-the-p-e-mail-sign-up [Accessed: 16/01/15]
Fig 10.2 Authors own image, Wright Mclean, O. 2015. Tencel womens jean with selvedge.
Fig 10.3 Authors own image, Wright Mclean, O. 2015. Details on the inside of the jeans.
Fig 10.4 Monkey Genes, 2015. Rana Plaza disaster poster [online] Available from: https://www.monkeegenes.com/
auxpage_stop-taking-the-p [Accessed: 16/01/15]
Fig 10.5. Authors own image, Wright Mclea, O. 2015. Team kilt with Phil Wildbore
Fig 11.1-Anon. (2014). Levi 8 Bottles 1 Jean Campaign. Available: http://explore.levi.com/news/sustainability/
introducing-levis-wasteless-8-bottles-1-jean-2/. Last accessed 21st Jan 2015. Fig 12.1 Prince, D, 2012. Denim Stack
[photograph] Available from: http://everyday-i-show.livejournal.com/147510.html#cutid1 [Accessed on: 22nd January
2015]
Fig 12.2 Anon, 2014. Japanese Indigo Dying [photograph] Available from: http://www.pinterest.com/
pin/380976449704233096/ [Accessed on: 22nd January 2015]

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Fig 12.3 Anon, 2014. Blue Mist [photograph] Available from: http://wallpaperscraft.com/image/441/2560x1080.jpg
[Accessed on: 22nd January 2015]

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Appendix

[A] Definitions:

Economy Jeans:
o
Economy jeans are located at the bottom end of the price range. These include private label and
unbranded products often sold through grocery and mixed retailers. Economy jeans also form part of value
clothing retailers offering. Examples include Primark (GB), Forever 21 (US), Kik (DE) and Kiabi (FR).

Standard Jeans
o
Standard jeans include all brands with a price positioning between economy and premium. Brands
which are typically considered to be standard include Levis, Wrangler and Lee.

Premium Jeans
o
This category includes brands which are considered premium due to their higher price and higher
quality positioning. Brands are allocated to this price platform on a country-by-country basis and, as such,
brands such as Levis and Wrangler may be considered as premium in some countries. Brands that are typically considered to be premium include: G-star, Diesel and Jaeger.

Super-premium Jeans
o
This category includes brands that are located at the top end of the price range. Super-premium
brands are often considered as fashion and status symbols, and are often sold through high-end department
stores or high fashion boutiques. Examples of brands include: 7 For All Mankind, True Religion and J Brand.
*The following slides include specific price brackets for economy, standard, premium and super-premium
jeans by country.
Economy
Standard
Premium
Super Premium
United Kingdom () -35
35 - 60
60 - 80
80+
Canada (C$)
-30
30 - 55
55 - 120
120+ Hong Kong, China (HK$) -300
300 - 500
500 - 800
800+
Passport, 2014. Blue Gold: Progress and Prospects in Super-Premium Denim Global Briefing. [online] Date
of document: 26 Aug 2014 Available from: http://www.portal.euromonitor.com/portal/analysis/tab [Accessed:17/12/14]

PAGE49

[B] Graphs and tables from survey conducted by ourselves

How much do you spend on a pair of jeans on average?

101+
81-100
66-80
46-65
36-45
26-35
11-25
0-10
I don't I swap my jeans
0.00% 5.00% 10.00% 15.00% 20.00% 25.00% 30.00% 35.00%

Do you customise your own denim clothing?

Yes

No

What would you call yourself within the denim industry?

Anti-innovator
Conservatives
Late mainstreamers
Mainstreamers
Early mainstreamers
Trend followers
Trend setters
Trend creator
0.00%

5.00%

10.00%

15.00%

20.00%

25.00%

30.00%

35.00%

PAGE50
The ethical, economical, environmental aspect of my jean is
very important to me.

Strongly Disagree

Disagree

Neither Disagree Nor Agree

Agree

Strongly Agree

Ranked first as favourite jean..

Straight leg

Jeggings

Flares

Bootcut

Skinny

Mom jean

Boyfriend jean

Cropped

Drop crotch

Dungarees

Other

Typically I wash my jeans..

I rarely do, I avoid washing my jeans.

Whenever visibly dirty or smelly

Every other time they are worn(even
when not visibly dirty)
Everytime they are worn (even when
not visibly dirty)
0.00% 10.00% 20.00% 30.00% 40.00% 50.00% 60.00%

Authors own image, Wright Mclean, O. 2014. Excel graphs created from a survey conducted. Excel [C]

PAGE51

[C] Graphs from conducted demographic Survey

Percentage
25.00%
20.00%
15.00%
10.00%
5.00%
0.00%
18

19

20

21

22

23

24

25

Age of participants

Annual income before taxes

30,000+
25,001 - 30,000
20,001 - 25,000
15,001 - 20,000
10,001 - 15,000
5,001-10,000
0-5,000
0%

Income of participants

5%

10%

15%

20%

25%

30%

35%

40%

PAGE52
What kind of area do you live in?
60%
50%
40%
30%
20%
10%
0%
Suburban

Urban/City

Rural

Living area of participants

Average spent on fashion apparel p/month

301+
201-300
101-200
51-100
0-50
0%

10%

20%

30%

40%

50%

60%

Amount spent on clothing per month

What market level do you shop for?

Luxury Market
Upper Middle Market
Middle Market
High Street
Value Retailers
0%

10%

20%

30%

Market level in which participants shop at

40%

50%

60%

70%

PAGE53
Average Spent on Jeans
101+
81-100
66-80
46-65
36-45
26-35
11-25
0-10
I don't swap my jeans
0%

5%

10%

15%

20%

25%

30%

35%

Amount spent on jeans per month

Would you be happy for us to contact you about

focus groups or interviews?

No

Yes

0%

10%

20%

Participant contribution

30%

40%

50%

60%

70%

80%

PAGE54

Fig 12.1 Denim Stack. Price, D,

2012

Fig 12.1 Denim Stack. Price, D, 2012

PAGE55

Fig 12.2 Japanese Indigo Dying. Pinterest, 2014

PAGE56

Fig 12.3 Blue Mist. Anon, 2014