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Difficulty: *
10. Sew inner stand-up (with the collar) to the neckline, fold the outer stand-up open edge
under and topstitch along the seam of inner stand-up.
11. Press hem allowance to left, then topstitch. Press and topstitch slit allowances.
12. Make button holes into right (overlap) part and sew buttons to the left (underlap) one.
Difficulty: **
Difficulty: **
You will need: sheer fabric; satin (for trimming); zipper; fusing; bias tape.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print
out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how
much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Waistband_1 2 pieces
2. Waistband_2 2 pieces
3. Back part 2 pieces
4. Back trimming 4 pieces
5. Front part 1 piece
6. Front trimming 4 pieces
Fusing: front trimming, back trimming.
Instructions:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front/back trimming.
2. Serge side edges. Stitch side seams excluding closure slit into left side seam. Press side
seams apart and press the slit. Topstitch the slit at 0.5 cm (3/16") from edge.
3. Make pleats into shaped neckline and make provisional stitch. Trim the neckline with
bias tape. Fold bias tape in half lengthwise, wrong side inside, and press. Unfold the bias;
turn inside half-width of each side of the tape, press. Fold the tape back in at the first
pressed fold, press again. Encase shirred keyhole neckline into bias tape, baste and
topstitch to trim neckline with bias.
4. Stitch side edges of front/back trimmings. Press front/back trimmings side seams apart.
Stitch middle font seam and press it apart. Lay front/back trimmings right side together
and overstitch outer edge of trimming and inner edge between notches. Turn the
trimming right side out and press it. Press lower trimmings lower edge at 1 cm (3/8").
Stitch the trimming to the garment coinciding side seams.
5. Serge middle edge. Stitch middle seam up to closure mark and press the seam apart.
Stitch the zipper in. Fold middle edge of back trimming and topstitch it along zipper
joining seam.
Difficulty: *
1. Top - 2 details
2. Tie 1 detail
Our advice: To make the fabric along stitched seams stretch, sew details with narrow
zigzag or with special stretchable stitches. To make the hem stretch, oversew hem
allowance with special oversew stitches (overlock), and then sew it using double needle.
This is also attachable to other edges that should stay elastic. These recommendations are
not for industry.
Instructions:
1. Press 1 cm (3/8") of hem into wrong side, for both tops.
2. Fold the tie along the center, right sides together, then overstitch, turn out and stitch
ends.
3. Overstitch the neckline, right sides together.
4. Overstitch armholes, with holes for the tie.
5. Overstitch the low-cut neckline and closure edge into top back.
6. Turn the top right side out.
7. Make a stitch along the neckline.
8. Pull the tie into the neckline loop.
9. Make special stitch along the armholes, low-cut neckline and closure edge.
10. Make special stitch along the top hem.
11. Work three button holes and sew three buttons.
Difficulty: **
1. Cups 2 details
2. Lace cup 1 detail
3. Basque 2 details
Lining:
1. Cups 2 details
Cut pipings of 0.5 cm (3/16") width by diagonal.
Recommendations on sewing sheer material. Do not draw contours via carbon paper on
material, for they will be visible on the right side. The simplest way is to cut all details
with equal allowances and sew edges on equal width.
Instructions:
1. Sew bust darts into cups.
2. Sew bust darts into lining cups.
3. Sew fabric cups.
4. Sew lining cups.
5. Overstitch fabric cups lower edge with lining cups.
6. Sew lace cups to basque with hidden stitches.
7. Tack lining and lace details and then sew them as usual (as lace only).
8. Overstitch lace cups front edges with lining cups, then turn cups into right side.
9. Fold pipings for armhole and back neckline along the center and press. Sew folded
pipings to armhole edges, piping bent is on the garment on 0.75 cm (1/4") width. Cut
seam allowances to 0.5 cm width. Turn pipings into wrong side, then topstitch the top
along armhole and back neckline.
Difficulty: *
Difficulty: *
Difficulty: **