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Limit
your current to 1 mA per square inch of anode. Continually stir, and
reverse the polarity every minute.
One of the things I found that helps tremendously is to switch the polarity on
trodes at approx 15 minute intervals so that "bearding" does not form
on the trodes. Stiring is a must. I am using simple 13.5/30 AC 1000mA wall
mount Adaptor with gator clips attached to 99.999% 14mm silver trodes and 32qt
jar. One of these days I am going to order a strirrer.
Also, I've heard others say that they just wipe their trodes down with a napkin
and no problems but I get better results when I wipe them really clean with a
quick swipe of plain abrasive material like brillo.
Following these procedures, I get clear 10-12 pmm with no problems and I am
thus far, satisfied.
1 is to use an aquarium bubbler in the water while you are making it. I have
gotten it as high as 50 ppm and it still staying clear forever. Most of the
time I get it up to 25 ppm and it stays crystal clear with the bubbler.
2 You can add a tiny bit of Hydrogen peroxide to it and the yellow will go away
.
First, wait for a few days.
H2O2 in unstable CS does some very strange things.
Then, as little as say, 6-12 drops per gallon generally does the job within another day or
so..
The more, the faster.
Current per unit cross-sectional area is known as current density.
It is expressed in amperes per square meter or fractions thereof.
Current density can also be expressed in amperes per circular mil.
The greater the current in a conductor, the higher the current
density.
For ease of calculation let's say you have square electrodes that
measure 1 mm each side and are 100 mm in length. The surface area
them will measure 1mm x 100mm x 4 sides = 400 mm^2 (400 square mm).
If you pass a current of 400 mA through this electode, the CURRENT
DENSITY can be found by dividing the current by the area (400 mA /
400 mm^2) and will equal 1 mA / mm^2 (one mA per square mm)
ppm = mg/lt
where:
ppm = concentration of silver in parts per million
mg = milligrams of liberated silver
lt = liter of distilled water
lt = ml/1000
The variables for this equation are the amount of liberated silver and the
volume of distilled water used.
*The current density at the electrodes (anode).
3.
den = I/sqin
where:
den = current density in Amps per square inch of anode surface area
I = current in Amps
sqin = surface area of electrode (anode) in square inches
Conversion factors:
[for wire electrode]
sqin = pi*d*l
;surface area = pi*diameter of anode*length of anode
d = .08081 in
;for 12 gage wire
d = .06408 in
;for 14 gage wire
R = E/I
Verify the current in circuit with a milliammeter or measure voltage across the
resistor and calculate:
I = E/R
I would recommend that one calculate the maximum amount of current allowable
for their electrodes for very low current CS where den = less than .08ma/sqin
for example. Just don't exceed that current for your setup.
Special thanks to Bob Lee and Mike Monett.
Dan
This is .080 milliamps, or 80 microamps per square inch of anode area.
Multiplying the
electronic
charge
by
the
Avogadro number
6.0221367... x 10+23 electrons/mole electrons tells us that one
Faraday equals 96,485.309... C.
http://www.psigate.ac.uk/newsite/reference/plambeck/chem2/p02082.htm
-------------------------------------------------------------------In your description of the setup, you list the following:
For 425ml distilled water (approximately 14 ounces)
Using 9V battery
Time
= 24 hours
Nominal current = 88microamps
Nominal ppm
Resistor value
= 20ppm
= 100,000 ohms
silver
in 24
=
=
=
=
24
70e-6
425
1
;
;
;
;
brew time
current
volume
wetted area
and we get ppm = 15.9 after 24 hrs. So you need to increase the
current slightly. Note these calculations are only approximate,
since the battery voltage will change with time, and we really don't
know the cell resistance.
This immediately runs into the most difficult part of describing the
process to others. How do you know the purity of the distilled water
that someone will use? It fluctuates a great deal between different
vendors.
This will change the cell resistance, and I should point out that
every manufacturer of cs generators has the same problem. You have
to find a brand that works, and make sure the quality remains the
same over time.
While it true you can use any length of silver wire that meets your
requirements, I take a more conservative approach and recommend
using the entire 3 ft length of 12 ga, and cut it in half for each
electrode. The fold into a "W" so it will fit in the jar.
There are a number of good reasons for doing this. One is the silver
will last for a very long time. Another is if you cut pieces off the
standard length, the remainder will probably sit in a drawer and you
will not be able to find it years later when you need to replace the
electrodes. It will also get dings and scratches, and I'm starting
to get concerned that these may provide local hot spots for particle
formation and reduce the quality of the cs.
Finally, having a larger wetted area reduces the cell resistance, so
the voltage drop across the series resistor is a larger portion of
the total battery voltage. This makes the current more predictable
with variations in water purity (up to a point:)
Now the resistor is another problem. The leads are fragile, so it
won't last long if you put it in the middle of the alligator lead.
You need a place to mount it to take stress off the leads.
The 9V battery connections have the same problem. The leads are fine
stranded wire, and they will also break after a short period of use.
This happened to the first unit I made.
So the solution is to combine both problems into one,
them both at the same time.
and eliminate
I simply cut the insulation off the battery connector and remove the
leads. Then solder the resistor to the positive terminal and hook up
the alligator leads as you described. A bit of hot glue on the
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
I * sec
I / sqin
k * I * sec
107.88 / 96500
qrt * 0.946
gm * 1000
mg / lt
hrs * 3600
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
cs at
We enter the desired parameters and let Mercury solve the unknowns:
ppm
qrt
sqin
den
=
=
=
=
20
2
3.8
87e-6
;
;
;
;
desired ppm
volume in quarts
wetted area of 12 ga wire
current density in Amp/sq.in.
=
=
=
=
10
20
2
3.8
;
;
;
;
10 hour
It would take 940 uA, and the current density is 247 uA/sq.in.
den = +0.000247
I
= +0.000940
This might be near the critical current where it starts misting and
generating particles. I don't know where the threshold is.
Let's try setting the current density to 200 uA/sq.in.
tell us the current and brew time:
ppm
qrt
sqin
den
=
=
=
=
20
2
3.8
200e-6
and
let it
; desired ppm
; volume in quarts
; wetted area of 12 ga wire
15V or
You can play with it and see what would meet your needs.
Best Regards,
Mike Monett
The trick is to use 12 ga silver in a U-shape, with at least 1/2"
> between the legs and preferably 5/8".
>
> I favor a 400ml borosilicate beaker with a coroplast lid to hold the
> electrodes. They should be 1.5 inches apart, centered in the beaker.
>
> I prefer a TL431 regulator driving a high voltage NPN transistor.
> The diagram is very simple and is in the datasheet.
>
> For iontosphoresis, I prefer resistive stabilization as shown in the
> 130VDC file since semiconductors usually fail shorted, for example
> due to ESD events, but resistors usually fail open. This protects
> you against a short circuit applying high current to your flesh.
>
> Run at a current density
of
about 275uA/sq.in. You need to
> desulfurize the electrodes by
connecting both to the negative
> terminal of your supply, and use a strip of aluminum or titanium
> foil for the anode. Apply current for no more than 60 seconds to
> avoid releasing aluminum ions
into
solution, which will form
> aluminum hydroxide at the cathode.
>
> When the electrodes are clean and free of sulfur contamination,
> start the brew. Wait until tiny whiskers appear at the bottom of the
> cathode. This point may be reached in 12 to 17 hours or so, but the
> timing is not critical like it is in a 3 nines. When they are about
> 1/8" long, swap the polarity.
>
> Check to see if there is any tyndall in a completely dark room with
> your eyes dark-adjusted. There should be none.
>
> Wait for the whiskers to disappear and reappear at the new anode.
> When they are about 1/8" long, terminate the brew and pour the cs
> into your PETE storage container. I prefer a new Dasani bottle that
> has been drained and flushed.
>
> I call this the SilverCell process, and will provide much more
> information on the http://silvercentral.org site very soon, as soon
> as I finish killing the mold spores that have plagued me for over a
> decade.
>
> Check the ion concentration with a COM-100. You should see 35uS to
> 37uS. It may drop to around 32uS or 33uS after 48 hours and stay
>
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as a
which escapes
electrons and
how
They
will
penetrate a
> little bit into flesh, perhaps 1/2" or so. This means they are ideal
> for combating tooth root infections.
>
> Lots more to tell, but I need to get back to work. Good luck.
>
> Mike M.
See Wayne's comment below. I suspect with your 30 volt supply (which is
probably higher with only a 1.4 mA load), you probably start drawing 1.4 mA
the moment you turn it on or shortly thereafter. You would need very, very
pure water for the starting current to be lower. You shouldn't need to
kick-start your batch with CS, and definitely DO NOT use salt. You appear
to have a milliamp meter, so you can measure your startup current. If it is
really less than 1.4 mA, then see how long it takes to reach 1.4 mA. If you
must start at 1.4 mA, then see how much of a previous CS batch you need to
add to bring the current up. I would estimate it would only take about an
ounce.
I would not brew this batch longer than 4 hours (one quart at 1.4ma).
Try separating the electrodes by 1.5 inches (38.1 millimeters). You can
probably run a little higher current. Try 300uA. Fill the beaker to 425 mL.
For the first run, desulfurize the electrodes by connecting them together
as the cathode and using an aluminum foil for the anode. The sulfide will
be gone in seconds, but there seems to be another kind of contamination on
the electrodes, or maybe it is on the aluminum foil. I'm not sure. Anyway,
I'd run them until the voltage across the cell stops changing. This may
take 6 to 8 hours or more. It really makes a difference in the performance.
Clean the beaker with 3% H2O2 then flush with 99% isopropyl then finally
dw. Slosh it around and discard.
Clean the electrodes with 99% isopropyl. Try to use a lint-free cloth. If
you have none, ordinary tissue paper will work but you have ot watch for
tiny fragments that will stick to the electrodes and become contamination
traps. Let the the electrodes dry and use a small brush to brush them off.
Make sure the brush is new and has plastic bristles. Do not set it down on
the table. Keep it standing upright in a small glass and store in a
cupboard so it doesn't collect lint and contamination from the air.
Now you can start your first run. Fill the beaker with 425 mL of fresh dw.
Apply current. Use either electrode as the anode. Mark them with "A" and
"B" so you can remember which is which.
According to the Faraday calculation, after 17.92 hours you will have
liberated 30 ppm of silver into the solution.
Look for tiny whiskers on the bottom of the cathode, or negative electrode.
Let them grow to about 1/8 inch long, or about 3 millimeters.
Check for Tyndall by turning out the lights and shining a light from a
laser pointer into the solution between the electrodes. There should be no
beam in the dw, indicating there is no AgOH being produced.
If there is no AgOH, swap the polarity, being very careful to not shake or
jiggle the jar. This will toss fragments of pure silver into the dw and
make it a bit more difficult to check for Tyndall later. The silver makes
sparklers which show up as tiny, intense bits of light. Tyndall is a solid
beam of light shining in the solution. The sparklers are harmless, but we
want to avoid making Tyndall.
8
When the shiskers have disappeared from the first electrode and appeared on
the second electrode, terminate the brew.
Now you need something to pour the dw into. I really like an empty Dasani
PETE bottle. Dasani has less than 25 ppm of minerals, so it is easy to
empty the bottle and remove the residuals. Do not drink from the bottle.
Just pour the water out and use it to make coffee or tea. Flush the bottle
with dw a couple of times.
You can use the lip on the beaker to pour the cs into the bottle. You might
want to decant the silver flakes that will fall to the bottom of the
beaker. That means do not empty the beaker completely, but leave a bit of
solution containing the flakes in the bottom. You can discard those in the
sink.
Get a small shot glass. Pour some cs in the bottom and add a few crystals
of canning salt. You should get a rich, thick dispersion. If you look
through the glass, you won't be able to see objects behind the glass.
Record the number of hours you ran the brew until the whiskers appeared,
and then how many hours until they disappeard and then started to grow on
the other electrode.
Let me know these times, and what the dispersion looked like.
I will be able to give more precise information on the electrode
separation, cell current and brew times soon.
Thanks,
I forgot to mention. Use a 1/2 inch (12.7 millimeters) copper pipe as the
mandril to form the U-shape in the electrodes. Cover the pipe with a piece
of thin polyethylene plastic bag from the vegetable department in a grocery
store.
The copper pipe has an ouside diameter of 5/8 inch (15.875 millimeters),
which will give an electrode width of close to 3/4 inch (19.05 millimeters).
Place the bottom of the U to about 3/8 inch (9.5 millimeters) from the
bottom of the beaker. Try to get the electrodes as straight as possible,
parallel, and verticle. Check for parallelism with a ruler, and use the
sides of the beaker to judge when they are verticle. Making sure current info:
Silver wire into a "U" shape
Width between wires 3/4 inch
3/8 inch from bottom of beaker
200uA max current (built new 50uA to 500uA supply)
It doesn't have to be perfect. Just get it the best you can. If it looks ok
visually, it is probably good enough.
The fact you see a Tyndall shows your current density is way too
high. You did not describe your electrodes, but the best
configuration is 10 or 12 gauge wire bent into a U-shape, with a
current density of around 275 microamps per square inch. The width
of the U is critical.
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
10
C
C
=
=
SilverCell BOM
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1/2" Copper Water Pipe to form electrode U-Channel
12" Ruler
12 Ga 0.999 Fine Silver Wire 20" long
2 ea 400ml Low Profile Griffin Borosilicate Beakers
2 ea Tie Wraps
2 Small Shot Glasses for Salt Test
3 ea Alligator Leads, Red, Black, Yellow
99% Isopropyl Alcohol
9v Battery. Can be used
11
9V Battery Clip
Aluminum Foil
Aquafina Deionized Water or Equivalent. Need the bottle
Coroplast 0.150", 4mm thick, 6" square, 152mm
CS Transfer Cup
Disposable Plastic Gloves
Distilled Water
Drinking Straws: 0.150" (4mm) and 0.210" (6mm)
Fine Tip Permanent Marking Pen
Grid Paper, preferably 1/4" grid spacing
Hot Glue Gun
Long Nose Pliers
Pure Canning or Pickling Salt
Red Laser Pointer
Resistor, Value TBD, probably 15k, 18k, or 22k
Scissors
ScotchBrite Pads or equivalent
Sewing Pins
Sharp Knife
Sidecutter for cutting silver wire
Small Barrier Block to hold wires
Small Screwdriver, 1/8" tip
Small Soft Paint Brush to clean dust
Smooth Plank 1ft Long, 3" wide
Soft Tissue Paper
Tape Rule
Vaseline Petroleum Jelly
12