Bernadeth R.

Pagcaliwagan
ChE 3301
Cosmetic Industry
Cosmetics
Any substance intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, sprayed or applied to any part
of human body for purpose of

Cleansing

Beautifying

Promoting attractiveness

Altering the appearance

And includes any article intended for use as a component of cosmetics.

History
"A woman without paint is like food without salt."- Roman philosopher, Plautus

10,000 BC:

4000 BC:

Men and women in Egypt use scented oils and ointments to clean and soften
their skin and mask body odor. Cosmetics are an integral part of Egyptian
hygiene and health. Oils and creams are used for protection against the hot
Egyptian sun and dry winds. Myrrh, thyme, marjoram, chamomile, lavender, lily,
peppermint, rosemary, cedar, rose, aloe, olive oil, sesame oil, and almond oil
provide the basic ingredients of most perfumes that Egyptians use in religious
ritual.

Egyptian women apply galena mesdemet (made of copper and lead ore) and
malachite (bright green paste of copper minerals) to their faces for color and
definition. They employ a combination of burnt almonds, oxidized copper,
different-colored coppers ores, lead, ash, and ochre -- together called kohl -- to
adorn the eyes in an almond shape. Women carry cosmetics to parties in
makeup boxes and keep them under their chairs.

3000 BC:

Chinese people began to stain their fingernails with gum arabic, gelatin,
beeswax, and egg. The colors used represent social class: Chou dynasty royals

wear gold and silver, with subsequent royals wearing black or red. Lower classes
are forbidden to wear bright colors on their nails.

1500 BC:

Grecians whiten their complexion with chalk or lead face powder and fashion
crude lipstick out of ochre clays laced with red iron.

1500 BC:

Chinese and Japanese citizens commonly use rice powder to make their faces
white. Eyebrows are shaved off, teeth painted gold or black and henna dyes
applied to stain hair and faces.

1000 BC:

Grecian women paint their faces with white lead and apply crushed mulberries as
rouge. The application of fake eyebrows, often made of oxen hair, is also
fashionable.

Chinese and Japanese citizens commonly use rice powder to make their faces
white. Eyebrows are shaved off, teeth painted gold or black and henna dyes
applied to stain hair and faces.

1000 BC:

Grecians whiten their complexion with chalk or lead face powder and fashion
crude lipstick out of ochre clays laced with red iron.

Early cosmetics

100 AD:

In Rome, people put barley flour and butter on their pimples and sheep fat and
blood on their fingernails for polish. In addition, mud baths come into vogue, and
some Roman men dye their hair blond.

300-400 AD:

Henna is used in India as a hair dye and in mehndi, an art form in which complex
designs are painted on to the hands and feet, especially before a Hindu wedding.
Henna is also used in some North African cultures.

Cosmetics in the middle ages

1200 AD:

As a result of the Crusades, perfumes are first imported to Europe from the
Middle East.

1300 AD:

In Elizabethan England, dyed red hair comes into fashion. Society women wear
egg whites over their faces to create the appearance of a paler complexion. Yet,
some thought cosmetics blocked proper circulation and therefore posed a health
threat.

Renaissance cosmetics

1400 - 1500 AD:

In Europe, only the aristocracy use cosmetics, with Italy and France emerging as
the main centers of cosmetics manufacturing. Arsenic is sometimes used in face
powder instead of lead.

The modern notion of complex scent-making evolves in France. Early fragrances

are amalgams of naturally occurring ingredients. Later, chemical processes for
combining and testing scents supersede their arduous and labor-intensive
predecessors.

1500-1600 AD:

European women often attempt to lighten their skin using a variety of products,
including white lead paint. Queen Elizabeth I of England was one well-known
user of white lead, with which she created a look known as "the Mask of Youth."
Blonde hair rises in popularity as it is considered angelic. Mixtures of black
sulphur, alum, and honey were painted onto the hair and left to work in the sun.

19th and early 20th century cosmetics

1800 AD:

Zinc oxide becomes widely used as a facial powder, replacing the previously
used deadly mixtures of lead and copper. One such mixture, Ceruse, made from
white lead, is later discovered to be toxic and blamed for physical problems
including facial tremors, muscle paralysis, and even death.

Queen Victoria publicly declares makeup improper. It is viewed as vulgar and

acceptable only for use by actors.

1900 AD:

In Edwardian Society, pressure increases on middle-aged women to appear as

young as possible while acting as hostesses. Increased, but not completely
open, cosmetic use is a popular method of achieving this goal.

Beauty salons increase in popularity, though patronage of such salons is not

necessarily accepted. Because many women are loathe to admit that they

needed assistance to look young, they often entered salons through the back
door.
Classification of Cosmetics

Products intended for application to lips

Products for care of the teeth and the mouth

Products for nail care and make-up

Products for external intimate hygiene

Sunbathing products

Products for tanning without sun

Skin-whitening products

Anti-wrinkle products.

Hair care products

Shaving products

Products for making-up and removing make-up from the face and the eyes

Creams, emulsions. Lotions, gels and oils for the skin

Face masks

Tinted bases

Make-up powders, after-bath powders, hygienic powders

Toilet soaps, deodorant soaps

Perfumes, toilet waters and eau de Cologne

Bath and shower preparations

Depilatories

Deodorants

Cosmetic Products

Lipstick

Lip + cosmetics = Lipstick

A cosmetic product containing pigments, oils, waxes, and emollients that applies
color, texture, and protection to the lips

Symbol of feminity

Abual-Qasim al-Zahrawi inventor of lipstick

Formulation of Lipstick

Waxes : provide structure and strength to the lips, also responsible for gloss

Oils : mineral oil, olive oil, cocoa butter, lanolin

Bromo mixtures (bromo acids) : maintain physical form of mixture

Colors : eosin, lakes of Calcium, Aluminum

Antioxidants: to prevent rancidication of fatty acids

Preservatives: to prevent microbial growth.

Lip gloss

Give lips a glossy lustre

Provides moisture to lips and prevent their chapping

Max Factor Inventor of lip gloss

Formulation

Mineral oil

Castor oil

BHT

Vitamin E (acetate)

Jojoba oil

Eye Shadows

Eye shadows are preparations designed to enhance the depth of eyes

The colored product is applied with a flexible brush of foam applicator

The raw materials are principally pearlescent agents dispersed in a powder base
composed of talc (which give softness and easy glide), kaolin, titanium dioxide or
calcium carbonate. Volatile silicones help to avoid the chalky effect owed to
powders

Eye Liner

To underline and over line the lower and upper lids

Modify and correct the appearance of the shape of the eye and are applied with a
small brush

Types of eye liners

Liquid eye liners

Compact (Cake) eye liners

Made with a non-greasy emulsion, colorants and film-forming

agents

Made with pressed powder and colorants (applied with a wet

brush)

Eye Mascara

Used to enhance the eye beauty. It may darken, thicken, lengthen or define the
eye lashes

Formulation

Pigments

Oils

Waxes

Preservatives

Foundation

To even the complexion and cover slight imperfection

Obtained by ground iron oxides and dispersed in oil or glycols

Nail Polish ( Nail Varnish)

Lacquer applied to human fingernails or toenails to decorate and/or protect the

nail plate

Formulation

Film former: nitrocellulose

Solvents: butyl acetate or ethyl acetate

Resins: tosyl/ formaldehyde resin

Colors: titanium oxide with mica or lakes of Calcium

Palsticizers: camphor

Ultraviolet stabilizers: benzophenone

Pigments and sparkling agents: mica

Rouges

Applied on cheeks to enhance look of the face

Impart sparked touch and stimulate freshness of skin

Formulation

Mixture of fats, oils and waxes suitably colored

Preservative

Perfume

Cetyl alcohol

White petrolatum

Eyebrow pencils

High wax containing hard crayons for darkening the eyebrow and to impart
pseudo growth of eyebrows when one is evident

Formulation

Yellow wax

Paraffin wax

Cocoa butter

Petrolatum

Carbon black

Compacts

Very close in composition to face powders

Compact powder is a face a powder compacted into cake, applied on face with a
powder puff.

Formulation: similar to face powder

Talc

Zinc oxide

Rice starch

Magnesium carbonate

Colloidal clay

Color pigment

perfume

Shampoos

Remove sebum, skin particles, dirt without excessively degreasing the hair

Kasey Herbert: inventor of shampoo

Formulation

Surfactants

Foam boosting actives

Thickener or viscosity controlling actives

Conditioning agents

Opacifiers

Chelating agents

pH adjusting agents

Coloring agents, fragrance actives and preservatives

Face powder

Improves personal attractiveness

Formulation

Covering powders

Adherents

Depilators

To remove undesired hair from body

Formulation

Chemicals

Carrier

Binding agent

Perfumes

Dentrifices

Used to clean oral cavity and teeth using fingers of hand or toothbrush

Counteract bad breadth and leave a refreshing clean taste in mouth

Formulation

Polishing agents(abrasives): remove debris

Surfactants: help in emulsifying debris and wetting teeth.

Humectants

Binders

Sweetening agents

Flavoring agents

Preservatives

Anticaries agents

Deodorants

Correct bad body odor by deodorizing perspiration without restriction its flow and
also by preventing decomposition through bacteria inhibiting action

Formulation

Purified zinc peroxide

Boric acid talc

perfume

Cosmetic Industry Today

makeup - 38%

Skin care 35%

Hair care 33%

Face makeup 31% - 36%

Lipstick/lip gloss 29% - 34%

Eye makeup 28% - 33%

In recent years, consumers have been spending higher levels of disposable income on
cosmetics than they had in the past. Unfortunately, the global financial crisis has put a damper
on the market and during those years, more affordably priced merchandise and do it yourself at
home products were key in the beauty market. Although there are some exceptions, generally
speaking, for all products the higher the household income, the higher the spending
percentages. However, in recent years as Generation Y has really entered the job market, they
have become a big driver of the cosmetics market in the United States. There also seems to be
an increased interest in natural and organic beauty products particularly in the United States
and Europe and worldwide sales were $9 billion and projected to bet $14 billion by 2015
according to Organic Monitor.
Some manufacturers like Aveda, The Body Shop, and M A C have their own stores but most
products are sold in drug stores or department stores. Drug stores sell typical consumer brands
like Boots, Botanics, L'Oreal, MAX Factor, Cover Girl, Maybelline, etc. Sometimes stores sell
their own or an exclusive brand, such as Sonia Kashuk, sold by Target. For more "upscale"
products, department stores sell from manufacturers like Clinique, Prescriptives, Lancme, etc.
Some manufacturers like Aveda, The Body Shop, and M A C have their own stores but most
products are sold in drug stores or department stores. Drug stores sell typical consumer brands
like Boots, Botanics, L'Oreal, MAX Factor, Cover Girl, Maybelline, etc. Sometimes stores sell
their own or an exclusive brand, such as Sonia Kashuk, sold by Target. For more "upscale"
products, department stores sell from manufacturers like Clinique, Prescriptives, Lancme, etc.

Quiz
1. Grecian women paint their faces with white lead and apply crushed mulberries as
______.
2. Remove sebum, skin particles, dirt without excessively degreasing the hair.
3.

"A woman without paint is like food without salt.

4. There also seems to be an increased interest in natural and organic beauty products
particularly in the _______ _____and ______ and worldwide sales were $9 billion and
projected to bet $14 billion by 2015 according to Organic Monitor.
5. Lip gloss give lips a glossy ______.
6. It is made of copper and lead ore.
a. Mendhi
b. Amalgams
c. Henna
d. Galena mendesmet
7. Today in cosmetic industry, lipstick / lip gloss has a percentage of?
a. 28% - 33%
b. 29% - 34%
c. 28% - 34%
d. 29% - 33%
8. It Improves personal attractiveness.
a. Foundation
b. Face powder
c. Rouges
d. Deodorant
9. Eye mascara is made up of the following except?
a. Perfume
b. Oils

c. Pigments`
d. Waxes
10. It is used in India as a hair dye.
a. Shampoo
b. Conditioner
c.

Henna

d. Mendhi
11-13. Give at least three ingredients of eyebrow pencils.
14-16. Give at least three classification of cosmetics.
17. Where is dyed red hair comes into fashion?
18. It whitens the Grecians complexion
19. Inventor of lipstick
20. Any substance intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, sprayed or applied to any part of
human body for purpose of cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, altering the
appearance and includes any article intended for use as a component of cosmetics.

Answers
1. rouge
2. Shampoo
3. Plautus
4. United State and Europe
5. lustre
6. d
7. b
8. b
9. a
10. c

11-13. Yellow wax, Paraffin wax, Cocoa butter, Petrolatum, Carbon Black
14-16. Toilet soaps, deodorant soaps, Perfumes, toilet waters and eau de Cologne, Bath and
shower preparations, Depilatories, deodorants etc.
17. Elizabethan England
18. chalk or lead face powder
19. Abual-Qasim al-Zahrawi
20. Cosmetics