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00030

No. 29

www.euromodelismo.com

BIMONTHLY

Tanks in Russia

17

Sold Out

17

20

Tanks in Russia I

Tanks in Russia II

Tanks in Russia III

Tanks in Russia IV

Tanks of the Eastern Front,

1941-1942: Painting and
camouflage
Pz.Kpfw. I Ausf. B:10. Pz.Div.
Pz.Kpfw. II Ausf. F:7. Pz.Div.
Pz.Kpfw. III Ausf. H:3.
Pz.Div.
Tracks &
accessories:Painting and
varnishing
Pz.Kpfw. IV Ausf. E:6.
Pz.Div.
Pz.Kpfw. IV Ausf. F-1:5.
Pz.Div., Pz. Rgt. 31
Pz.Kpfw. IV Ausf. F-2:14.
Pz.Div., Pz. Rgt. 36
Identification symbols:The
emblems used by German
crews in the Eastern Front,
1941-1942.

A further analyse on
camouflages based on new
information. Assembly and
superdetailing of Russian
and Germantanks and
specially the following
models:
Pz.Kpfw.38 (t),
T-26
T-60
T-34/78 mod.1940
T-34 mod.1941
T-34/76 mod.1941/42
Ekranami
BT-5
BT-7M, ,
KV-II mod.1939,
KV-I mod.1941
KV-IE.

Emblems of Armored
German Units on the
Eastern Front, 1943-1945
German Camouflage Colors,
1943 (RAL 840R)
Russian Camouflage Colors,
1943
Pz.Kpfw. III Ausf. M Pz.Rgt.3., 2. Pz.Div.
Pz.Kpfw. IV Ausf. G - 20. Pz.
Div.
Pz.Kpfw. V Ausf. D - 51.
Pz.Abt., III Pz.Rgt.53
T-34/76 Mod. 1943. 30th
Guard Armored

Pz.Kpfw. V Panther Ausf. A,

5.SS-Pz.Div. Wiking
Perfiles: Pz.Kpfw. V Panther
Ausf. A
Pz.Kpfw. Vi tiger Ausf. E , 2.
Pz.Rgt., SS-Pz.Gren.Div. Das
Reich
Perfiles: Pz.Kpfw. Vi tiger
Ausf. E
Pz.Kpfw. Vi tiger Ausf. E ,
Sch. Pz.Abt. 509
Pz.Kpfw. VI tiger Ausf. E ,
Sch. Pz.Abt. 509 versin
invierno
IS-1 (KV-85), Unidad de
entrenamiento cerca de la
fbrica Kirovski
IS-1, 13 regimiento de
choque de carros pesados
de la guardia

ACCION PRESS, S.A.

C/Ezequiel Solana, 16 bajo, 28017 MADRID
Tel. 913 675 708 Fax 914 085 841
www.euromodelismo.com e-mail: suscripciones@euromodelismo.com

The beast of Ladoga

The Tiger I is a frequented piece among hobbyists, because theres
always an interesting version of it, with an interesting camouflage
to reproduce. Other options are also explored in the color profiles.

Flakscheinwerfer
We have here an unusual diorama that shows us how the anti-aircraft material is
unloaded in a train station.

14

Humber scout car Mk. I

Small vehicles can come in handy when doing a vignette. We have here a British
Humber armored vehicle and a figure to demonstrate the splendid results. The review
has a photographic research review that has been used to build this kit.

Hetzer
The 1/48 scale is becoming increasingly popular. We can find a wide range of kits
and a number of accessories. These kits are easy to assemble and paint too.

30

44

Unteroffizier
Here we have a magnificent figure that portrays a German Infantry NCO sporting a
camouflaged uniform.

BMP-1
This is an old kit that portrays an attractive amphibious Soviet
vehicle that has undergone an intense detailing labor;
becoming a collectors item.

62

34

MODELLING LESSONS: Wooden Box

We will learn how to paint a wooden box on a 1/16 scale.

54

By: Steve Palffy

Pictures by the author
Color profiles by: Carlos de Diego Vaquerizo

Dragon

1/35

The Tiger I undoubtedly the most

Known and feared Tank of its time
with its thick armour and the
incredible fire power of the German
88 makes it one of those things that
every armour modeler will build at
some point.

he Tiger I have chosen to

model, represents one of the
5 remaining vehicles in February 1943 of schwere Panzerabteilung
502 (heavy tank battalion) primarily
fighting in the Leningrad sector, during the battle of lake Ladoga.
I have always been fascinated by
the early Tigers and the divergence in
camouflage in par ticular the
winter/snow camo schemes; therefore
it was an easy choice to depict this
vehicle in this period, the Tigers of
502 having a very distinctive pattern
during this time.
The vehicles were very stark white
in order to blend in with the snow
(the idea behind snow camo) also
very little if any dirt or mud as they
were running on frozen ground, snow
and ice, using primarily the images on
pages 16 & 17 from the book Tiger I
sur le Front de lEst for reference, also
the art work on page 19.

THE

MODEL

This kit builds into a nice model

out of the box, but with the addition
of a few minor additions and corrections, it can be turned into a real
show piece.
Even though the model was only
picked at sporadically over a two year
period.
I had all construction done and
ready for paint in about 16 hours.

ASSEMBL Y
The Dragon kit contains enough
parts to build more than a few variations of these 1st series Tigers,
although part use for all but the one
on the box art is a little vague.
Also depending on when you are
depicting the vehicles, there are a lot
of additions and paint changes over
time.
Lots of left over bits for the spares
bin!
Double check instructions and reference to make sure you didnt forget
anything.
Wanting to show damage and lack
of replacement parts.
The turret box (Rommelkiste) provided in the kit from a Panzer III was
used although I did not see these in
the reference used, the Battalion did
have Panzer III Ausf. N and Ausf. Ls
as fire support, so it is possible.
I wanted to show damage and lack
of replacement parts on the model, so
several of the outer road wheels were
left off, then using left over hubs from
this and other kits to replace them.
I ended up using very little of the
photo etch included in the kit,chosing
to remove the fenders after looking at
the model for a while, just using the

parts for the smoke generators, and

then taking the engine deck screens
from a late production Tiger kit.
All photo etch parts were glued in
with instant glue.
I used the WWII productions No.
35026 tracks, these things are great,
saving the modeler a lot of time in
that they are articulated and just click
together, giving a very realistic track
sag, you can either glue them down
with super glue as I have done or if
you want a clean look to the model
paint and attach later.

B AT T L E
D A M A G E
There was a time when I modeled
everything with some kind of damage
on it, but this kit really called out for
it, in particular after reading the Tiger I
on the Eastern Front book, s. Pz.Abt
502s Tigers were up against huge odds
of numerically superior forces and was
also in short supply off spares, so
modeling damaged and missing parts
became essential.
Missing road wheels, with scratches
and scrapes applied with hobby knife
into remainder of rubber road wheels.
Impact marks were added by slightly drilling into the armour.

KITS USED
Kit:
-Tiger I Inicial Production, Dragon
ref. 6252, 1/35 scale.
Orugas:
-Tiger I Early, WWII Productions
ref. 35026.
Accessories:
-Engine deck screens from Tiger I
Late Production, Dragon ref. 6253.
-Hubs from Tiger I Frhe Production, Tamiya ref. 35216.
Figure:
-Flak Artillery Crew, Dragon ref.
6275 with heads Verlinden Productions.

Penetration into sheet metal parts

and outer road wheels was applied by
slightly drilling into parts, then drilling
through with smaller diameter drill bit.
And of course removing the front
fenders and one of the rear ones then
became necessary to add to the look
of the beat up Tiger.
Some of the vehicles had the various upgrades added so check reference!

The tracks have been

replaced, four photo
etched grilles have been
placed on the motors
cover, and a figure has
been placed in the
turret.

P A I N T I N G
Inspiration; the only way to ever get
anything done!
Both the inspirational photographs
and artwork in Tiger I on the eastern
front served to really give me a push
to finish this model.
The paint scheme chosen for the
vehicle is not copied specifically of
any particular vehicle in the photographs (these were however used for
inspiration), but is rather representative of them at this point in time,
numbers and the battalion emblem
(mammoth) were also painted over/or
not visible.
It should also be remembered when
depicting vehicles of a certain time
frame and unit to be aware of the conditions they fought in helping to form
the applicable weathering, in this case
at this time the vehicles were running

The first airbrushed layer of paint is

XF-52. This will also be base color for
the tracks.

Plastic priming on the kit with light grey colour.

on frozen ground, snow and ice,

therefore covering every thing in Mig
pigments would be wrong for this
time, the snow camo was also very
white and stark in order to blend in
with the surrounding area.

The most important step in painting any model is to provide a good

base or primer coat especially when
multiple Medias are used; in this case
Tamiya grey spray primer was used.

After airbrushing a layer of XF-63 mixed with XF-52, the areas that are meant
to keep this color will be masked using Tamiya masking tape

C O L O U R C H A RT
TAMIYA
(synthetic lacquer)
AS18 light grey
TAMIYA (acrylics)
XF-2 flat white
XF-52 flat earth
XF-63 German grey

MODEL COLOR
(acrylics)
819 Iraqui sand
820 offwhite
862 black grey
865 oily steel
872 chocolate brown
884 stone grey

897 bronze green

928 light flesh
947 red
951 white
REMBRANDT (oils)
54092 burnt humber
54112 burnt Sienna
55132 cobalt blue

57012 ivory black

MODEL AIR (acrylics)
59 matt varnish
REMBRANDT
(pastels)
Black
Orange
5

After masking the model, a thin layer of

XF-2 is airbrushing in all surfaces.

This is how the kit looks after removing

masking tape. We can clearly see the
grey areas; the white areas show some
grey underneath, and there are some
areas where white paint is opaque.

By airbrushing clouds and white paint

streaks we avoid stark contrast created
between different camouflage colors,
creating a fade between the two.

Oil paint treatments. Weve done a general wash using oil

paints 55132 and 57012 to enhance the features and details
of the kit, rust is conveyed with brush strokes on oil paint
54112.

Paint chips, scratches and so on, are recreated using 872.

Once weve mat varnished the Tiger, those areas that

appear polished with wear are recreated using a silver
colored pencil.

Dirt trails from the wheels axis to the ground are created
using a mixture of oil paints 54092 and 57012.

Rust trails on the vertical surfaces are also vertical, if

necessary oil paint can be smeared using a clean brush
soaked on odorless thinner.

Tip
Place spray can in a cup of hot
water for a couple of minutes, this will
increase temperature and pressure
resulting in a finer more even coat
especially in cold weather.
Using airbrush model was given a
coat of Tamiya XF-52 flat earth.
Followed by 60% XF-63 German
grey 20% XF-52 flat earth and 20%
thinner avoiding the tracks.
Squiggly patterns were then cut

A figure on winter
garb complements the
kit. This figure has
been painted with the
usual painting
techniques.

into masking tape and applied to

model.
Entire model again avoiding tracks
was given a coat of 50% XF-2 flat
white and thinner.
Model was then masked again with
thicker strips of tape, followed by more
white and thinner again avoiding track.
After removing all masking a pattern of clouding (panel fade) and
streaking of white and thinner was
then applied.

Brush work
Now the fun really begins.I love
this part.
Would you like chips with that?
Well obviously YES.
Using Model Color paints
Chocolate brown chips and scratches are applied, primarily concentrating

Impacts let us see the naked

metal surface which in turn has
gotten rusty with time. This
effect is achieved using acrylic
paint 872 and a few local oil
washes on 54112.

THE TIGER I IN PANZER ACES/ARMOR MODDELS

- DE DIEGO VAQUERIZO, Carlos. Tiger I E, sch. Pz.Abt.
509, Panzer Aces No. 1, Accin Press, Madrid, pp. 2-18.
- SIERRA GARCA, Alfonso. Tiger I E, sch. Pz.Abt. 502,
Panzer Aces No. 4, Accin Press, Madrid, pp. 25-33.
- GARCA GZQUEZ, Joaqun. Tiger I Ausf. E Spte
Produktion, Panzer Aces No. 6, Accin Press, Madrid,
pp.22-39.
- VV.AA. Tiger I special issue, en Panzer Aces No. 12,
Accin Press, Madrid, pp. 1-64.

The work on this kit, a perfect

example of how you can get
wonderful results by assembling a
good kit almost right out of the box
with a minimum of time and effort.

- SIERRA GARCA, Alfonso. Tiger I Ausf. E, sch. Pz.Abt.

506, Panzer Aces No. 20, Accin Press, Madrid, pp. 5259.
- AGUILAR MUOZ, Joaqun. Tiger I Ausf. E, sch. Pz.Abt.
507, Panzer Aces No. 22, Accin Press, Madrid, pp. 24-33.
9

on high wear areas like hatches and

corners.
Tools; wooden sections- Iraqi sand,
metalbronze green.
Rubber road wheels-black grey.
Vision blocksblack grey.
Canvas mg cover-stone grey.
Exhausts-liberal mottling of chocolate brown.
Fire extinguisher-vermilion.
Edges of guide teeth and outer surface of track, drive sprocket teeth and
idler wheel rims were dry brushed
oily steel.

10

Oil wash and painting

Using artist tube oil paints thinned
with odorless solvent.
An overall wash of blue and black oil
mixed with mostly odorless solvent was

applied to entire vehicle minus the track,

This was then streaked down the
vertical and sloping plates.
Pin point washes and streaks of
sienna followed by Sienna/black mix
were then applied.
A thicker mix of Sienna was applied
to exhaust and jack.
A thicker mix of burnt umber and
Sienna was then applied to tracks.
This was followed by black/burnt
umber streaks applied to road wheels.
Final touches to the model
Figure and model were given a dusting by airbrush of 20% Model Air matt
varnish and water.
A little silver ar tist pencil was
applied to edges of hatches and other
high wear areas.

Glue the figure into vehicle.

A little black pastel chalk to the
exhaust outlets (soot).
A little orange pastel chalk to
exhausts and jack (rust).

F I G U R E
The head and binoculars are from
some of the Verlinden bulk bagged
sets, the body and arms which
required a lot of clean up, are from the
Dragon Flak crew set.
Painting the figure was done entirely by brush layering acrylics, using
Model Color paints in a four hour sitting late one night, so I apologize for

not taking any progress pics, but just

got in that zone where you cant put
the thing down till its done, my apologies.
Basically using a fine brush painting
went something like this:
1 sprayed primer grey, like
everything else
2 face painted Iraqi sand
3 highlighted with diluted light flesh
4 vermilion diluted for cheeks and
lips
5 diluted chocolate brown for
shadows on face
6 eyes painted in white, blue then
black grey
7 off white for uniform, white for
highlights
8 a little diluted grey for shadows
and creases in uniform
9 diluted black grey for cap
10 pink for piping on cap
11 silver for cap badges
The kit has been placed on a fairly
simple ground. On the ground we can
also see the turret from a T/34/76
1941 model (Dragon kit No. 6418)
painted green, with ample rust
treatments.

12 bronze green for gloves and collar

13 diluted chocolate brown and black
grey for binoculars
14 a little khaki to the elbow areas
(dirt)
Remember once you have a base
coat down, diluted layering of darker
shades in the recesses and shadows
and lighter in the edges and high
lights.
There were a few touch ups and go
over.

BIBLIOGRAPHY
- RESTAIN, Jean, Tiger I sur le
front de lst, Histoire &
Collections, Paris, 1999.
- SCHNEIDER, Wolfgang, Tigers
in combat I, J.J. Feodorowicz
Publishing Inc., Manitoba,
Canada, 1994.

The rusty look on the tracks has been

obtained with a number of oil washes
on 54112 and 54092. The tracks have
also been treated with 865 applied
with the dry brush technique to
enhance them.

11

12
Pz.Kpfw. VI Tiger Ausf. H1 (Sd.Kfz. 181), sch. Pz.Abt. 503, Ssarmatskaja, U.S.S.R., February 1943.

Pz.Kpfw. VI Tiger Ausf. H1 (Sd.Kfz. 181), sch. Pz.Abt. 502, Lake Ladoga, U.S.S.R., February 1943.

13

Pz.Kpfw. VI Tiger Ausf. E (Sd. Kfz. 181), sch. Pz.Abt. 503, Kursk, U.S.S.R., July 1943.

Pz.Bef.Wg. Tiger Ausf. E (Sd.Kfz. 268), 4. Kp./SS-Pz.Rgt. 1, Kharkov, U.S.S.R., April 1943.

By: Juan Carlos Toledo Miranda

Pictures by the author and Fernando Caellas Planchuelo

Bronco

1/35

In 1939 British authorities were concentrated on the production of armored

chars, and neglecting the development of other armored vehicles. This was the
main cause for the lack of armored reconnaissance vehicles on that period.

14

efore the war all available

material was put into service.
The Humber Automobiles Beaverette
is a case in point. This vehicle had a

lightweight armoring and was armed

with a machine gun. The RAF used it
for security purposes in a number of
airfields, and the army used it as a

lightweight reconnaissance vehicle.

When the war began, the British Army
already had a successor for the
Beaverette, the outstanding Daimler

Dingo. Several companies were commissioned to develop and build similar

vehicles, able to undertake exploratory
missions and identify enemy positions,
locate mine fields and other obstacles,
clear away roads for the passing convoys, escort and backup.
One of these companies was the
Rootes group that began manufacturing in 1942 an armored vehicle similar
to the Dingo but somewhat heavier
and larger, sitting two crewmen and
with a No. 19 radio equipment and a
light Bren machine gun on a Parrish
Lakeman mount on the roof that
could be handled from the inside of the
vehicle.
The Humber Mk. I began service
in 1943, and was widely used in northern Africa and Europe by a number of
armored, engineer, artillery and com-

mand units. In 1945 manufacturing

ceased (along with the war) but it was
still widely used in countries like
Malaysia, Denmark, Belgium, Holland
and France. France even used it in
Indochina against the Viet-Minh.

THE KIT
Up until recently, most hobby kit
manufacturers centered their production mainly in German, American and
Russian vehicles. Most other countries
were poorly represented if ever at all.
Hobbyists determined to display rare
vehicles in their shelves had to get
expensive and hard to get resin kits.
The Bronco brand has decided (luckily
for us all) to release a series of unusual
British vehicles, and from other nationalities as well.

ASSEMBL Y
Generally speaking this Bronco reference is a great quality kit. Still it has a
number of glitches that are not understandable in view of the overall quality
of the kit. The kit features a fully
detailed interior (motor included) a
small photo etched sheet and vinyl
tires. Oddly enough the kit includes a
resin figure of the British actor Michael
Caine who appeared on one of these
vehicles in Sir Richard Attenboroughs
A bridge too far.
I must confess that I dont usually
follow instruction sheets. I just look for
the pieces in it, and assemble the kit
following my own logic and intuition. I
usually start with a base and keep
adding details from the bigger to the
smallest pieces. This is generally not

15

had to adjust them a little using putty

and sandpaper. I will also mention the
rear fenders; I had to glue L shaped
fastenings (made out of 0,3mm thick
Plasticard sheet) on their lower part to
hold them fast. Oddly enough these
L shaped pieces are not included on
the Eduard photo etched sheet.
The motors hood on the front part
of the vehicle has a rugged and irregular surface and its excessively long. In
order to fix this you can use the photo
etched parts, but these dont fit well on
Injection molded Bronco Kit with an
Alpine resin figure, Czech Master
Resin wheels and Eduard Photo
Etched parts.

Ive placed some Italeri fuel

cans on the right side.

what the manufacturer intends, but it

makes sense to me because you dont
have to constantly look back and forth
into the sheet.
Letting this matter aside, I didnt
have a hard time at all assembling this
Bronco kit. However I had to correct a
number of things that I will deal with
below.
Once I assembled both halves of the
hull, the rear of the vehicle caught my
attention: The ventilation grille on the
motor was poorly executed. I had to
substitute it with Plasticard sheet
0,5mm thick for the lateral pieces, and
0,4mm thick for the horizontal ones. I
did the same on the ventilation opening on the hull right underneath the
motor grille. Then I glued the front
fenders; they didnt fit too well, so I
The rear has
been partially
rebuilt using
Plasticard sheet.
The fenders
have been
trimmed down
using 400gr
sandpaper and
have been
detailed with
Photo Etched
supports.

the hull, so I chose to sand the original

Bronco piece.
The base for the antennas needed a
cover that was made using 0,3mm
thick Plasticard sheet and screws that
were made with a hole puncher
(0,5mm diameter). The conical base on
the rear antenna was replaced by an
Evergreen rod modeled with a small
file. I also placed a small steel rod

(0,5mm diameter) on the upper part

and a Bronco Butterfly Wing nut on
one side.
I placed on the front part of my
vehicle the pieces that make up the
headlights and the claxon, and I created cables for these items using 0,2mm
copper wire. Here I also substituted the
rod for the right rear view mirror for a
section of 0,3mm thick copper wire.

The frontal axis has been detailed

with brake cables. The small metal
pieces are found on the Eduard Photo
Etched sheet.

The shaft of the rearview mirror and

the cables on the headlights are
different sections of copper wire.

The motors cover has been trimmed down with a small file.

KITS USED
Kit:
-Humber scout car Mk. I, Bronco
ref. 35009, scale 1/35.
Photo Etched Sheet:
-Humber scout car Mk. I, Eduard
ref. 36012.
Accessories:
-Single wing nuts, Bronco ref. AB
3501.
-Butterfly wing nuts, Bronco ref.
AB 3503.
-Jerricans, Italeri ref. 402.
-Wheels, Czech Master Kit ref.
3081.
Figure:
-WW 2 British tank crew No. 2,
Alpine ref. 35049.
-Heads, Hornet ref. HH 18.

17

Most period pictures of the vehicle

demonstrate that the left rear view mirror was either removed or never placed,
so I decided to do likewise. I also
worked on the latches of the frontal
boxes using the photo etched sheet
and Broncos single wing
nuts.
The assembly of the
lower part of the vehicle
wasnt especially difficult,

The varied nuances on the paintjob

have been obtained with small
amounts of oil paint smeared through
the kits surface using a brush and
enamel thinner.

The area were the pilot

seats, on the fenders,
theres a darker area that
has been made using an
oil mixture of ivory black
and 78 this gives a sense
of depth.

18

I just had to make the brake tubes on

the front and be careful with these
small delicate pieces. I substituted the
silencer on the exhaust by another one
made with an Evergreen rod and Plasticard strips.
The wheels on the kit are acceptable
but I chose to replace them with the
resin ones found on the Czech Master
Kit, which are better dimensioned and
sculpted. I had to use the Bronco cover
of the central transmission, change the
distribution of the screws, and put
0,3mm copper wire for the valve for the
inflatable chamber of each tire.
Once Ive assembled the remaining
photo etched pieces from the Eduard
sheet I placed a couple of Italeri fuel
cans on the right side, and considered
the whole thing finished.

P A I N T I N G
I primed the entire kit using synthetic grey Tamiya lacquer. It was applied
with my airbrush kit, so I had to empty
the Tamiya spray on a container first.
After a couple of hours I airbrushed
the base color, which is about 70% XF51, and 30% XF-60. Afterwards, in
order to get the highlights right I studied how light hits the vehicle: all horizontal areas and those areas which are
slightly sloped would get the strongest
highlights. I added more XF-60 to the
previous mixture and applied this using
my airbrush kit. Those parts with a
greater exposure to light would get
lighter colors, so I kept adding XF-60 to
the mixture and even added some
white to do the upper surface.

The Humber looked at this stage a

little like light sand, but I wasnt worried because later colors and the ageing
processes tend to darken up things. I
however corrected the sandy look by
adding some enamel filters using
Molaks 1105M highly
diluted in the brands own
thinner. Now the vehicle
looked greenish.
I let the vehicle dry up
for a couple of days, and
applied all decals with the
usual Micro Set and Micro
Sol products, and applied
some dust on the lower,
frontal, rear, and wheel
areas using Tamiya
acrylics XF-59 and XF-52.
I was now ready to melt

Decals have been treated with the

Micro Sol and Micro Set products, and
their gloss was covered under an
airbrushed layer of Gunze Sangyos
matt acrylic varnish.

a few oil paints using sand and beige

tones applied cloudily on the horizontal surfaces, and in vertical trails on the
vertical surfaces. I also melted small
portions of ivory black oil and 56 on
the areas exposed to the hands and
feet of the crewmen, and the motors
cover. The lower areas got a number of
sand colored oil washes to convey mud
and sand. I also used dark colors like
78 to create some depth. The motors
cover and the rear fenders I put oil 80
to convey oil and grease stains.
At this stage I decided to increase
the dirt effects on the lower and

wheel areas. I did a few local Model

Color acrylic washes on 983, 921, 875,
977 and Panzer Aces 316. I did the
paint chips and scratches that convey
wear, mixing acrylics 320 and 977 and
applying this in small dots and thin
lines on certain parts of the kit. I used
302 for the deepest paint chips.
Then I did some profile enhancing
of the vehicles lines and volume using
a brush and a mixture of oil paints 78
and 80 highly diluted on Tamiyas
enamel thinner. I also did some specific
The wooden
handles on the
tools are painted
with 875, and the
upper part has
been lighted up
using 315 and the
lower one has
been darkened
with 950.

The metallic part of the tools has

been treated with graphite powder
simply obtained by sanding the lead
on a pencil.

acrylic shading using my airbrush kit,

and XF-1 and XF-10 on all corners and
ends.
Those areas that are subject to direct
contact with the hands of the crewmen;
hatches edges, trap doors etc. are usually darker and a bit shiny. I mimicked this
using a cotton swab and graphite powder. I also applied this on the areas that

require a polished metal effect such as

scratches and paint chips.
I applied some Mig Productions
powdered color pigments on the lower
and wheel areas to create larger mud
particles that usually adhere on those
areas.

The lower areas of the armored vehicle have been treated with oil and acrylic paints in earth-like colors. Powdered
pigments contribute to create the texture of adhered dust.

19

COLOUR CHART (Humber)

TAMIYA (surface primer)
AS18 light grey
TAMIYA (acrylics)
XF-1 flat black
XF-2 flat white
XF-10 flat brown
XF-51 khaki drab
XF-52 flat earth
XF-59 desert yellow
XF-60 dark yellow
MOLAK (enamels)
1105M Marine green
GUNZE SANGYO (acrylics)
H20 flat clear
TITAN (oils)
56 ultramarine deep
78 burnt umber
80 bitumen
82 ivory black
92 yellow ochre reddish
94 gold ochre transparent
MAIMERI (oils)
131 yellow ochre
161 raw Sienna
493 raw umber
MODEL COLOR (acrylics)
875 beige brown
921 English uniform
977 desert yellow
983 flat earth
PANZER ACES (acrylics)
302 dark rust
315 light mud
316 dark mud
320 French tankcrew
MIG PRODUCTIONS
(pigments)
P028 Europe dust

20

All details and the edges of the

armored planks have been enhanced
using dark oil paints. This effect was
further enhanced by airbrushing a
highly diluted mixture of Tamiyas
XF-10 and XF-1.

BACKGROUND
I used a number of British reference
pictures taken in Germany towards the
final weeks of WWII. Theres a wide
range of reference materials of this
nature available in specialty stores and
hobby shops.
The ground was fairly simple and
was sculpted using Das Pronto modeling paste. I spread the paste on a piece
of isolating material used for building
homes. Before this paste was totally
dry, I glued some sand on top using
regular carpenters glue diluted in

water. The wooden fence was built

with small wooden pieces used for
building model ships. I followed my
research materials I fixed it to the
ground using metallic pegs on the door
jambs.
I used Tamiyas XF-52 and XF-59 for
the ground, and shaded it later on with
a number of oil paint washes on 78
and Molaks 129M. I enhanced the
grounds texture using Model Colors
977 applied with the dry brush technique.
I painted the fence using a mixture
of XF-18 and XF-14, increasing the

COLOUR CHART (Background)

TAMIYA (acrylics):
XF-2 flat white
XF-3 flat yellow
XF-5 flat green
XF-14 J.A. green
XF-18 medium blue
XF-52 flat earth
XF-55 deck tan
XF-59 desert yellow
MODEL COLOR (acrylics)
977 desert yellow
TITAN (oils)
78 burnt umber
MOLAK (enamels)
129M dark earth

The lines on the wooden surfaces

have been enhanced with oil washes
on 78. The lower areas receive
greater amounts of this paint, and
thus convey dirt.

The paint on the fence features some

scratches that let you see the nonweathered look of wood underneath.
This has been done by sanding (using
400gr. sandpaper) certain areas.

The synthetic gloss on the artificial grass has been

eliminated by sprinkling a mixture of Tamiyas matt
green and matt yellow. The Verlinden Productions
poster (ref. 014) has been weathered with a wash on oil
paint 78.

The telegraph post is a wooden rod with two isolating

covers made with a plastic rod shaped up with a file. The
cables have been made using copper wire painted black.

amount of the last one as I was getting

farther from the ground. I used a mixture of Tamiya acrylics XF-2 and XF-55
on the door. The ageing of these elements was done with oil paint washes
on 78.

F I G U R E
Alpine is one of the best manufacturers on the market for figures meant
to be displayed with military vehicles.
They are perfectly dynamic and have

21

22

The figures helmet has been painted

using the same techniques used on
the vehicle. On a XF-51 base lighted
up with XF-4, I have applied a
number of Humbrol enamel filters on
26 and 62.

Paint chips and scratches on the

helmet have been recreated using
302, 327 and 948 all Panzer Aces and
Model Color references.

When using a brush to retouch

highlights and doing some shadows in
the overall, I have used a few drops
of 596. The gloves in 941 colour have
been highlighted with 873 and 981.

perfect modeling details and 1/35 scale

proportions. The figure I used is ref.
35049; it fits perfectly into the Humbers hatch without having to do

retouches. I only replaced the figures

head for a Hornet reference with a
twisted neck.
I painted the figure with my airbrush

kit using Model Color acrylics. I used

879 as my base color, and then I created some highlights with 977. I
increased the highlights as I got closer

The areas around the hatches and the sills that guide them when they are going to open up have been treated with
graphite powder.

COLOUR CHART (Figure)

MODEL COLOR (acrylics):
596 glaze medium
872 chocolate brown
873 Us field drab
879 green brown
941 burnt umber
948 golden yellow
950 black
951 white
977 desert yellow
981 orange brown
HUMBROL (enamels)
26 matt khaki
62 matt leather
TAMIYA (acrylics)
XF-4 yellow green
XF-51 khaki drab
PANZER ACES (acrylics)
302 dark rust
327 Italian tankcrew

to the figures head, and even added

some white on the final ones on his
shoulders. I did the shadows pretty
much the same way, but using 872. I
tried to darken the figure considerably
in those areas that would fit inside the

vehicle. I even used 950 on the lower

part of the figures legs. When I was
done, I did some brush touch-ups
using the same colors, using techniques that have been widely discussed
elsewhere.

BIBLIOGRAPHY
- WHITE, B.T. British Tank Markings and Names, Arms & Armour
Press, London, 1978.
- FLETCHER, David. British Tanks
of WW II (1) France & Belgium
1944, in Armor at war series n
7027, Concord Publications, Hong
Kong, 2000.

The emblem is a blue shield with a yellow outer edge with an eye inside it, and it belongs to the British Armoured
Guards Division.

23

Pictures taken by Rodrigo Hernndez Cabos in the War & Peace Show at Beltring UK.

With a 6 cylinder motor

and 87cv that propelled
the vehicle at a maximum
speed of 72 Km/hour, this
all terrain 3,4 t armored
vehicle could operate in a
radius of 320 km. 1698
units were made of the
Mk. I version only.

24

Here we have a detail

showing the front
drivers sight on the open
position. We can also see
the opening lock and the
window cleaners.

Every rear fender had a structure for holding two flimsy

fuel cans. These fragile cans broke more often than not
on the bumpy road.

On top of the front fenders you can see some wooden

boxes for carrying equipment. We can also see on this
picture the support for the headlight.

The case for

the radio
antennas is
placed on top
of the rear
left fender.
Slightly
further down
we can see a
fire
extinguisher.

25

The long air intake slits located on the removable cover on the back, were there to cool the motor.

26

The big box on the right side was used to hold food rations, manuals, clothes and a portable kitchen.

On the back of the vehicle we can see the armored protection for the motors venting hole.

Two men manned the vehicle, but the Humber Scout Mk. I had a collapsible third seat. The thickest spot on the armored
vehicle was 14mm thick.

27

By: Jos Manuel Flores Prez

Picture credits: Jordi Escarr Gonzlez
Alpine

1/35

The 17th Infanterieregiment was a

German Army formation which had
an excellent reputation and came
from a very old military tradition
which goes back to 1809. This
formation was created in
Braunschweig Prussia, to fight
against Napoleon in the Austrian
campaign. Later on this unit also
played a role in the Spanish
Independence war, and then fought
in the Waterloo battle.

30

n World War I (1914-18) they

also fought inside of the 92nd
Infanteriedivision and in World
War II it fought in the 31st Infanteriedivision in Poland, Belgium and France
and they ultimately fought against the
Soviet Union in 1941.
It fought with great determination in
the eastern front and suffered numerous casualties. In 1943, it fought in 28
of the roughest battles, becoming the
Grenadierregiment 17. During this period 35 out of 70 officers fell on duty;
towards the end of the year out of the
grand total of 1400 men, only 70 were
still alive. When the Soviets attacked
during the summer of 1944, the 31st
Infanteriedivision (a part now of the
XXXIX Panzerkorps of the 4 Armee)
was almost annihilated.

This regiment could be identified by

the Skull of the Brunswick Hussards,
visible on almost every piece of headgear. This distinctive was indeed a narrow skull on top of two crossed tibias.
The origin of this design goes back to
the beginning of the nineteenth century when Frederick Wilhelm, earl of
Brunswick, adopted it for his troops.
During W.W.II this emblem was used
by the 17th Infanterieregiment and the
13th

FIGURE
This well known resin reference has
all the qualities that Alpine usually
caters. The only modifications that I
saw fit were to substitute the gun holster by a Luger P08 model and place in

its left hand a resin helmet made by the

Aires brand. Before doing this I made a
hole through the figures fingers and
placed a thin masking tape strip to dub
as the helmet strap. I didnt put the
Brunswick skull, even if you can see it
in a number of period pictures because
I dont know if the use of this insignia

KITS USED
Figure:
- Winter Panzer Crew, Alpine ref.
35037, scale 1/35.
Complements:
- German W.W.II Helmets, Aires
ref. F3001.
- German Infantry Equipment Set B,
Tamiya ref. 35205.

The figures face on 876 has been highlighted and

then shadowed with 815 and 814 respectively.

was permitted on campaign

caps.
After painting the figures face using the same
skin tones used in my previous figure I painted the
cap with 830 and highlighted it using 860 first and
then 884. I created the
shadows by adding progressively 950. I used 951,
950 and 926 for the cockade and 883 on the 975
patch containing the eagle
national emblem and highlighted using some 951.
I decided to use the Sumpfmuster
(literally swamp water) camouflage
scheme on the uniform, which is actually a variation on the Splittermuster
(Wood splinter). I created the base color by mixing 879 and 988, and did the
highlights by adding more of the sec-

The felt on the upper part of the figures boots has

been painted 987, and has been shadowed with a
wash on 941. The leather parts have been painted
just like the belt except for the reinforcement on
the heel which has been painted adding 981.

Sumpfmuster. J. F. Borsarello.

ond color. The final highlights also

contain some white paint. I painted the
camouflage spots using 984 and then I
did some on 823. I recreated the
falling rain lines using 975. Then I
made some highlights using a mixture
of 988 and 821 and diluting both heavily on water. I used for the shadows

some highly diluted 872

and also added some
950. The inside of the
reversible coat was painted with 951 dirtied with
988; I did some highlights with 951 but never
used it pure. I used a
small drop of 950 to do
the shadows on the
inside of the coat. The
buttons were done using
995 and created some
highlights in them using
869.
Once the figure was
finished I airbrushed it with mat varnish and put some dirt on the figures
pants and boots using different shades
of brown. In order to blend the figure
with the ground I put some dirt also on
the lower part of the coat, the elbows
and knees.

31

COLOUR CHART
MODEL COLOR (acrylics)
510 glossy varnish
814 brunt cad. red
815 basic skintone
821 Germ. cam beige WWII
823 Luffwaffwe cam. green
830 German fieldgrey WWII
833 Germ. cam. bright green
841 Andrea blue
850 medium olive
856 grey green
860 medium fleshtone
869 basalt grey
872 chocolate brown
876 brown sand

879 green brown

883 silver grey
884 stone grey
926 red
941 burnt umber
950 black
951 white
975 military green
981 orange brown
984 flat brown
987 medium grey
988 khaki
995 German grey
MODEL AIR (acrylics)
059 mat varnish

The belt contains a mixture of

984 and 950 highlighted with
small amounts of 856. The sown
area close to the buckle has been
painted with 951 stained with
856.

The black NCO patch on the

figures left arm has some 850
bars that have been lighted up
using 833.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

BACKGROUND

32

I used small branches to create a

small rural fence as seen on a number
of period pictures of German soldiers
on the Eastern Front. I used a thin copper wire to tie the branches into a
fence simulating rope. Then I glued the
fence on the base and modeled the
ground using Das Pronto paste. I created a few footprints, glued (using carpenters glue) a few small stones and a
few natural shrubs.

I used several dark brown shades to

paint it all, and mixed them with gloss
varnish to convey mud.
I dedicate this review to the members of the Grupo de Reconstruccin
Histrica 17 InfanterieRegiment and
in special to Oblt. Von der Platz, to
Unteroffizier Fritz, to Gefreiter Gnter to Obergrenadier Anton and to
Grenadier Michael.

- DE LAGARDE, Jean. German Soldiers of the WWII, Histoire &

Collections, Paris, 1995.
- RECIO CARDONA, Ricardo, and
GONZLEZ SNCHEZ, Antonio.
German Army Uniforms (HEER),
Accin Press, Madrid, 2002.
- PETERSON, Daniel. Wehrmacht
Camouflage Uniforms & Post-War
Derivatives, in Europa Militaria
No. 17, Histoire & Collections,
Paris, 1995.

New Monographic, Now On Sale!

19
New monographic dedicated to the Afrika Korps. 88 pages in which you can find the latest
techniques employed by the authors showed step by step. A perfect reference to learn how to paint
those effects produced in desert conditions. Techniques that will inspire you to build your desert
models.

ACCION PRESS
C/Ezequiel Solana, 16 bajo, 28017 Madrid, Spain
www.euromodelismo.com/shop suscripciones@euromodelismo.com

HISTOREX AGENTS
Wellington House, 157 Snargate Street, Dover, Kent CT17 9BZ
www.historexagents.com

By: Javier Franco Manzano

Pictures by the author and Ral Fernndez Ruiz

CMK/Dragon/AFV Club

1/35

Im not a model train collector, and yet trains have always held some sway over
me. A diorama or a military vignette becomes especially attractive when it has
a simple slope with a couple of rails and a signal.

hen working on a 1/72 scale

we will find a number of
available kits, and we can
always use model train collector kits in
the H0 scale, but when working on the
1/35 range we can find very few things
on the market. This is basically the reason why whenever I find a kit like this
CMK resin reference I buy it without
hesitation

to use those Dragon train platforms that

I treasure at home. Finally, my friend
Juan Avils gave me the clue: The antiairplane Flak.Sw. 36 reflector made by
AFV kits! I used two of those plus three
or four figures to manipulate the crane
and hold the reflector.

Once the crane was assembled, I

posted some pictures on Panzernet, in
order to get some constructive feedback
from fellow hobbyists. This kind of feedback is crucial for correcting eventual
mistakes, which would be impossible to
correct when having everything already

A S S E M B L Y
Hobbyists that create dioramas usually plan their work right to the smallest
detail. They usually follow strict composition rules, and calculate each accessory that will end up in the finished work.
In other words; they closely follow a
script that they have created.
I work in a much more anarchic
fashion. Im sure that it is for worse,
but thats the only way for me to have
fun, and enjoy the hobby.
The only thing that was on my mind
when I began the diorama was to make
the crane the central piece on my
vignette. Thats why I assembled it first
so I could figure out its dimensions
and more specifically its height. Obviously there should be something hanging from the crane, but I was not yet
sure of what. I tried to imagine a huge
Sturmtiger with full a crew loading
ammo, but I dismissed it as something
much too obvious and large.
I was looking for something real and
yet unusual, and I was also determined
This resin CMK reference includes a
small wagon, the pieces fit well
together and the instruction sheet is
crystal clear. In order to create a solid
kit I recommend using fast two
component glue.

35

The stairs and the railing have been created with Evergreen plastic strips.
The textured (anti-slip) steps have been taken from a generic Aber Photo
etched sheet.

M O N T A J E

KITS USED
Kits:
60cm Flakscheinwerfer (Flak.Sw. 36) mit
Sd.Ah. 51, AFV Club ref. 35125, 1/35
scale.
German Railway Gondola, Dragon ref.
6086, 1/35 scale.
Built up Structures:
Kohlenkran DR, Railway coaling crane,
CMK ref. RA033.
River embankment, Verlinden
Productions ref. 1546.
Railway section, Dragon ref. 3825.
Photoetch:
Engrave plates, Aber ref. PP03.
Accessories:
Tile, Evergreen ref. 4507.
Field tool shop, Italeri ref. 419.
Figures:
German engineers, Verlinden Productions
ref. 676.
German tankman working, Wolf ref.
WAW24.
German tank crew at work, Mini Art.
35010.
Heads, Honet refs. HH04 y HGH01.

The small AFV reflector had a fair

share of molding residue, and the
instruction sheet was not too clear. I
painted the inside of the reflector On
Tamiyas X-11 before gluing the
transparent plastic piece.

36

This Dragon kit is outstanding, and the only thing I had to

fix were the circular mold ejector marks on some spots.
This was easily done using putty and sandpaper.

I adjusted the size (for fitting it on the base) by cutting it

at an angle with a small saw.

assembled. Tomek Rogala, a Polish hobbyist specialized in buildings and model

trains, suggested to place a coal shack
close to the crane (usually made out of
wood planks) because this was usually
kept right by the machinery.

The inclusion of this shack or

deposit would have ruined my original
intentions of creating a small vignette,
so I began to do my homework, and
laid out a plan on paper with the crane
on top to figure out the dimensions

and layout. I finally decided to partially

cut both the deposit and the platform,
thus reducing the dimensions of the
base to 27x21cm.

The wall on the platform comes from a Verlinden embankment kit. The pavement on the upper area is an Evergreen
reference with floor tiles in it. The sides of the scene were framed with balsa wood that was treated with a steel brush
and wood pore cover varnish.

37

The welding bottles are an

Italeri reference. They are
perfect for filling empty
spaces. They were painted
in different colors to break
the color monotony.

38

The small wagon on Model Color

302 has been treated with oil
paints 78, 74, 82, and 10. Rust
trails have been recreated using
washes on powdered pigment
P025, dragging the brush up and
down.

All objects have been painted using my airbrush kit with Tamiya colors. Dirt has been created using oil paint. Oil paint
can be easily smeared by using odorless thinner, and we can get some startling effects.

Grease stains are made using oil paint 80 mixed with

color pigment P028 europe dust (MIG).

Between the rails I placed a few leaves and a few food cans
made out of soft drink straws (see Modelling Lessons in
Panzer Aces/Armor Models No. 28)

P A I N T I N G
Background:
I began painting the platform; base
color Tamiyas XF-20 was airbrushed
throughout. I then created some color
variety by mixing this color with similar
Tamiya tones, and used some masking
to paint a few distinct floor tiles. I also
airbrushed the area around the coal
deposit in mat black overtones highly
diluted using Gaianotes thinner. Then I
did a few general paint washes using
dark colored oil paints to enhance lines
and features. I also created a few stains
by melting several oil references directly
on the floor tiles and tapped my thinner
(Odorless Windsor & Newton) soaked
brush on the stained tiles.
I then took to the rails; I primed
them using flat black paint, and airbrushed highly diluted XF-60. By doing
this, the dark base paint will show
through the lighter color. Afterwards I
took my brush and painted the wood
planks on the rails using oil paint 77. I
went again over some random tiles to
obtain different tone effects, and then
used a mixture of oil paints 74 and 88. I
also lighted up the prominent edges of
the tiles using the dry brush technique
(see Panzer Aces/Armor Models No.
13). The rails were given then a wash
of Mig Productions P025 pigment,
highly diluted on Windsor & Newton
thinner. Polished worn metal on the
rails (due to constant contact with the
passing train wheels) was created by

The techniques used for painting the

reflectors are basically the same ones
used for painting vehicles. Base color
on this one is XF-63.

and the metal platform and the crane

on the other. I began with the casemate, airbrush priming the areas made
of concrete using Tamiyas XF-2 and
XF-57. I added some vertical dirt trails
by varying the proportions of the mixture. Then I recreated the damp and
dirt spots on the lower areas using oil
paints 78 and 97 applied with a halfdry brush technique. I also did a number of dirt trails by melting a number of
oil paint references directly on the walls
using a brush loaded with thinner.
Once it was all dry, and in order to
enhance the dirtiness of coal, I airbrushed dark colored powdered pigments on the tiled surface around the
wall and coal deposit. I had to dilute
powder using my trustworthy Windsor

Small sized objects like this Italeri

tool box bring some credibility to the
scene.

rubbing graphite powder obtained by

sanding pencil lead.
The crane assembly was painted in
two blocks; the casemate on one hand,

Ive placed on the sides of the

platform the excellent
transfers created by Archer.
The dust filled look has been
obtained by doing a few
washes on oil paint 10.

39

The reflector painted

on Tamiyas XF-60
has been hanged on
the crane using thread
used for model kit
boats.

All figures have been

painted with acrylics
following the usual
techniques. All pants
have been painted in
Panzer Aces
feldgrau color.

that sees much use and little maintenance. I also used a small sponge to
apply paint chips on the top of the
wagons. I dont usually like this technique, because the results are usually
rather gross and can hardly be controlled. This technique is however recommended on large surfaces. Then I
did a few rust trails emanating from
some paint chips. I used oil paint 78 for
doing this, and spread this carefully
using a very thin brush.
The wooden surface was first given
airbrush priming in Tamiyas XF-1,
immediately afterwards I painted each
piece of timber using Panzer Aces 310
and 311 and randomly adding small
amounts of blue, green, red, grey in
order to get different tones. The difference may be subtle, but there are not
two identical pieces of timber. The
wood planks on the rails are just the
same plus I went over all these using oil

COLOUR CHART

40

& Newton thinner and perform a thorough cleansing of the airbrush apparatus after use.
The metal platform, the railings and
the staircase were painted XF-5. After
severe oil wash and pigment treatments
of these, I took Panzer Aces 302 and
created a number of paint chips and
scratches using my brush. I used a small
sponge for creating larger paint chips. I
used Tamiyas XF-63 on the machinery
and arm of the crane. I lighted up this
color using XF-19, and shaded it with
XF-1. This work is almost concealed
under the ageing processes, but they are
nevertheless there to break the color
monotony of such a monochromatic
machine. Then I created the well known
polished metal effect on the ridges that

needed it, on the machinery and also on

the steps using graphite powder applied
with a brush. I also did a number of
grease stains using oil paint 80 mixed
with Mig Productions P028.
Platform:
The hull of the railway platform was
airbrushed using Tamiyas XF-63, and I
enhanced certain ridges by adding XF20 to the mixture to create a couple of
highlights. Now I had to apply a number of decals from the Archer decal set
on German train stations (ref.
AR35087). Then I did a few dark oil
washes (78, 82 and 88), when those
were dry I used a thin brush to apply
Panzer Aces 302 in a wide array of
paint chips and scratches. This wear is
to be expected on a loading platform

TAMIYA (acrylics):
X-11 chrome silver (enamel)
XF-1 J.N.green
XF-2 flat white
XF-5 flat green
XF-8 flat blue
XF-19 sky grey
XF-20 medium grey
XF-57 buff
XF-60 dark yellow
XF-63 German grey
PANZER ACES (acrylics)
302 dark rust
307 red tail light
308 green tail light
310 old wood
311 new wood
334 German Tkcr. I (Feldgrau)
338 highlight Ger. I (Feldgrau)
342 highlight flesh
MODEL COLOR (acrylics)
815 basic skinstone
TITAN (oils)
6 zinc white
10 Naples yellow reddish
74 raw umber
77 sepias
78 burnt umber
80 bitumen
84 lamp black
88 yellow ochre
97 earth green
MIG PRODUCTIONS (pigments)
P023 black smoke
P025 standar rust
P028 Europe dust

Coal can be found on pet shops. I scaled it down by smashing it, and then glued it to the ground using carpenters white
glue thinned out in water.

41

paint 77 varying the amount of paint in

my brush for each one.
I waited for a couple of days until
paint had fully cured, and then I did a
number of dirt trails on the hull using

42

oil paint 10. This reference was also

used to create a layer of dirt on the
entire platform but applied with an
overall wash. While this paint wash
was still fresh, I painted grease stains
using oil paint 80.

Reflectors:
I painted one reflector on Tamiyas
XF-63, and the other one on XF-60. The
treatment for these was pretty much
the same treatment applied on basically
any other military vehicle: A couple of

airbrushed highlights using a lighter

shade of the base color; an initial highly
diluted dark oil wash to make details
stand out; melting small portions of oil
refs. (6, 88, 74, 78, and 97) to create
some nuances, color ranges and dirt;

scratches on the lighted up base color,

and scratches using PA 302.
Figures:
Strange as it may seem, it was painfully difficult to find figures in the adequate
clothes, and the adequate poses for this

scene in particular. I used two Verlinden

engineers and a Wolf tank crewman
without his jacket, all of them made of
resin. I had to use a plastic figure for the
mechanic that handles the reflector manufactured by Mini Art. These plastic figures are made in very realistic poses, but
the sculpting is truly awful. I changed a
few arms here and there in order to
adjust the figures to the necessary poses,
and also replaced all heads for Hornet references, which are outstandingly well
modeled.
Theres not much I can contribute to
the world in terms of figure painting,
considering that Im a rather mediocre
figure painter myself. I only started painting figures a couple of years ago, and did
it because my friend Fernando Sanz
ceased to do so for me. He has no time
now and had to start doing it myself. I
was forced to do it, and I dont really
enjoy it. Maybe if I improve and begin to
see positive results, I will enjoy it then.
At any rate, and from my humble perspective, here are a few pieces of advice
for beginners:
Always choose a well sculpted figure,
even if it costs more money. Verlinden
and Wolf figures are easy to paint
because they are well sculpted. The plastic ones that are lacking in detail were a
pain to paint.
Hornet heads are simply spectacular,
they almost paint themselves; well worth
buying.
When using acrylics, the magical
color that works for highlighting almost
any color from all color ranges is Model
Colors 815. (thanks to Jaume Ortiz)
A nice detail enhancement done with
a wash, can improve any dull figure.
Encyclopedias, books and reviews truly are invaluable help, but if you dont
actually use them they are worthless.
Theory here is quite straightforward, but
if you dont use it its only good to talk
about it.
I want to thank Jorge Porto for his
teachings; hes an outstanding figure
artist.
The coal deposit is made of wood
planks obtained from a model boat kit.
These planks have glued cardboard on
the back for added strength. This is
vegetal coal (the one used for putting
inside fishbowls or aquariums).

43

By: Joaqun Garca Gzquez

Pictures by the author. Color profiles by: Carlos de Diego Vaquerizo

Tamiya

1/48

The Jagdpanzer 38(t) (Sd.Kfz. 138/2) known as the Hetzer was a tank hunter
based on the modified frame of a Check 38(t) Panzer. It was developed as a faster
and more economic manufacturing option, compared to other ambitious projects
such as the Jagdpanther or the Jagdpanzer IV. This vehicle was well armored and
armed with a Pak 39 L/48 75mm gun. The vehicle was trustworthy and was
perfect for ambushes.

44

ts greatest setbacks were the small

space allotted to the crewmen and
the gun assembly with limited lateral movement.

The Jagdpanzer 38(t) came after the

Marder III (they both had the same
frame) and hit the assembly line on April
1944. A little over 2500 units were made

until the end of the war for the Panzerjgerabteilungen (tank hunter battalions).
Right after the war, Czechoslovakia
kept making these and naming them

Mud adhered on the

wheels and the lower
areas have been created
with a thin layer of putty
thinned with acetone
applied with an old stiff
brush.
The inside of the hatches
has been given detail with
thin plasticard sheet. The
metallic photo etched
armored protection planks
have been slightly dented
to convey use.

G13s. 158 units were expor ted to

Switzerland. As a matter of fact, the
Swiss army kept them in service until
the 60s.

A S S E M B L Y
Assembly and detailing of this kit
was rather simple, I literally assembled it
in one afternoon. I detailed the kit using
a Fine Molds tin gun and a Voyager
Models photo etched sheet, which definitely improves on some of the existing
pieces. Im thinking for instance on the
lateral armoring panels and the motor
grilles.

P A I N T I N G
There are several ways of creating
winter camouflage schemes: portraying
a vehicle with a brand new perfect

KITS USED
Kit:
- German Tank Destroyer Hetzer
Mid production, Tamiya ref.
32511. 1/48 scale.
Photo etched sheet:
- WWII Hetzer, Voyager Models
ref. VPE 48008.
Gun:
- Hetzer 7.5cm Gun barrel, Fine
Molds ref. Mk-04.
Figures:
- Make Models with Warriors
head. Hecker and Goros.

white paintjob would be one end of the

scale, and one worn with almost no
white paint left would be the other end.
From the point of view of the hobbyist
something in between would be the
interesting thing to achieve. This would
be the ideal compromise between reality
and the looks that a model kit requires.
It is always crucial however; to always
have around real pictures of the vehicle
you wish to portray.
Base Color:
Original factory paint Dunkelgelb RAL
7028 was conveyed using Life Colors
UA204. I wanted to create a lot of contrast between this color and the white
camouflage paint on top, so I didnt do
any of the usual highlights or shadows.
Once paint dried out well I placed
the decals (the three black crosses
included in the kit) using both the
Micro Set and the Micro Sol decal fixing
products. Next I covered the entire kit
with a layer of acrylic satin varnish.

Camouflage:
I chose Humbrols 34 enamel in order
to be able to partially remove it (as in
real life) with enamel thinner which
does not affect the acrylic factory color
underneath.
First I used a little Maskol to protect
the decals and proceeded to cover the
kit with several thin layers of enamel
paint. I allowed paint to dry up for
about 15-20 minutes and then proceeded to partially remove it using Humbrol
enamel thinner and a brush. I obtained
the results and textures pictured by
using both cylinder tipped brushes and
flat tipped brushes. I soaked my brushes
on the thinner can and did a number of
vertical brush strokes through the kit,
dragging paint down insisting on the
areas that required more wear.
In order to accentuate contrast on
some areas I used my base color and
went over those areas that were left
without white camouflage paint.

45

Once weve airbrushed

our base color (Life Color
UA204) we cover the kit
with several thin layers
of Humbrol enamel 34.

A few minutes later we

can partially remove
enamel paint with different brushes soaked on
the brands own enamel
thinner. The areas with a
higher tendency to wear
should be left with little
or no paint.

Paint Chips:
Using Model Colors 951 I did the
areas that were not worn and still kept
most of their camouflage on. I created
with this some beautiful nuances and
contrast between the different shapes
and colors of the kit. On the areas were
Dunkelgelb paint was uncovered I further enhanced contrast by going over
them again. This time however I used
Model Colors 978 and 819. Then I
used Model Colors 950 and 982 to create the paint chips that were deep
enough to reveal the rusty steel surface
underneath.

After weve painted the

gun on XF-7 (this conveys the real life rust
priming) we proceed to
create a number of paint
chips with Model Color
acrylics and a fairly new
brush.

46

Oil Paint Treatments:

I did an overall oil wash on oil paint 74
to mark the parting lines of the armored
planks and shade the kit a little. Once it
dried out I melted a number of different
oil paints throughout, to give the kit a little chromatic variation. You could actually
use any yellow or tan reference. I used oil
paints 6, 92, 78, 88, and 94.

Once I finished doing the usual paint

chips on the exhaust I did a number of
dark oil paint washes. Then I created
the exhausts texture using Mig Productions powdered color pigments P025
and P030 which in turn were fixed with
the last oil reference listed above well
diluted in enamel thinner- of course.
Oil and grease stains on the motors

cover and on the axis of some of the

wheels were made using oil paints 84
and 80. The shine of these paints was
left untouched on some areas. This can
be done by var ying the amount of
enamel thinner you put on your oil
paint: little or no thinner will keep the
shine on the paint.

An oil wash on
Titans 74 will help
you enhance the
kits features and
other details. We
also apply along
with the oil wash a
few rust colored
powdered pigments on the
exhaust area.

Powdered color
pigments are
applied on the
lower areas and
fixed with oil paint
washes diluted
with Humbrol
enamel thinner- in
different sand
tones.

The lower areas:

All those areas that were previously
(in the assembly stage) textured using
putty were now going to get some powdered color pigments that will adhere
with oil paint washes. I mixed pigments
P028 and P039 with oil paints 74, 104
etc. and allowed some dr ying time
between washes to avoid smudging the
area. I repeated the process a number of
times until I got a ver y convincing
result.
I painted the tracks before gluing
them to the kit. I covered them with a
layer of Tamiyas XF-52 and then created
the areas that show polished-worn metal underneath using the dry brush technique and Citadels Boltgun Metal paint.
I finished the tracks by applying the
same oil paint washes and powdered

color pigments used earlier on the rest

of the vehicle.
Now I just needed to put some ice
and snow on the tracks. I used Alda
Models artificial snow; this is a powdered product that can be used with
white carpenters glue and some water. I
used a thin brush to place small
amounts of this mixture on the kit. The
final step was to partially cover the track
area using Micros gloss varnish thinned
out with distilled water to give it a cold
damp look.

BIBLIOGRAPHY
- FRANCEV. Vladimir, K. Climent,
Charles and KOPECKY, Milan.
Hetzer Jagdpanzer 38, MBI,
Prague, 2001.
- ARCHER, Lee and AUERBACH,
William. Panzerwrecks 3, Lee
Archer, New York. 2006.
- ARCHER, Lee and AUERBACH,
William. Panzerwrecks 6, Lee
Archer, New York, 2008.
- Several Authors Jagdpanzer
38(t) Hetzer, in Panzer
Aces/Armor Models No. 7
(December 2004-January 2005),
Accin Press, Madrid, Pgs. 2-26.
47

The ground has been modeled with Das Pronto paste on a

flat cork base. Before the product settles we can give it
some texture with a metal brush and adhere to it a few
pebbles and thin sand with white carpenters glue. The
tree is a little thyme branch.

Once weve airbrushed it with a layer of XF52 darkened with XF-10, we can create some
shadows by airbrushing XF-8. The last color
used gives a cold look to the ground which
is very appropriate for the scene.

48

After weve painted the stones with a

range of gray colors, we can add there
a few nuances by melting some oil
paints.

COLOUR CHART
LIFE COLOR (acrylics)
UA204 dunkelgelb
MICROSCALE (varnish)
6404 micro glos
6405 micro satin
HUMBROL (enamels)
34 matt white
MODEL COLOR (acrylics)
819 Iraqui sand
950 black
951 white
978 dark yellow
982 cavalry brown
PANZER ACES (acrylics)
325 Russian tankcrew I
334 German tkcr. I (Feldgrau)
338 Highlight Ger. I (Feldgrau)
344 white (German tanker)
TITAN (oils)
6 zine white
74 raw umber
78 burnt umber
80 bitumen
84 lamp black
88 yellow ochre
92 yellow ochre reddish
94 gold ochre transparent
104 English red violet
502 ABTEILUNG (oils)
70 dark rust
MIG PRODUCTIONS
(pigments)
P025 standard rust
P028 Europe dust
P039 indutrial city dirt
P230 old rust
TAMIYA (acrylics)
XF-7 flat
XF-8 flat blue
XF-10 flat brown
XF-52 flat earth
CITADEL (acrylics)
Boltgun metal

We fix the artificial snow compound

by first applying on the ground a layer
of white glue and then we powder
the surface. Excess powder can be
blown away. Glossy surfaces are
created by spreading white glue
dissolved in water.

49

F I G U R E S
As a hobbyist I cant think of a
miniature vehicle without a matching
scale figure by its side. Other than
establishing the scale, a figure takes
some of the coldness of a given vehicle away, and gives everyone something
to relate to.
I completed the vehicles scene with
two figures: A resin driver manufactured
by Make Models (conveniently modified
to have its right arm resting on the
hatch, and its left arm resting on the
roof of the casemate) with a Warriors
head. The other figure was an outstanding white metal reference an MP by
Hecker and Goros. I painted both figures with Panzer Aces acrylics using the
well established zenithal lighting technique with the corresponding highlights
and shadows.

The winter
jacket on
Panzer Aces
344 is
highlighted
with 951;
shadows are
created with
325.

50

Base color for the Feldgendarmes Kradmantel is a mixture of Panzer Aces 334
and 325. Highlights are created by increasing the amount of the first color, and
shadows are created with Model Colors 950.

The rubbery water proof texture of

the coat has been created with a layer
of satin varnish. Mud is easily made
with powdered color pigments.
The position of the arms on this
figure has been modified to have
them rest adequately on the roof of
the vehicle.

We can also put on the tracks some more artificial snow. A layer of gloss varnish will help us convey dampness.

The area where the Feldgendarme is standing has been given a few oil paint washes to convey trampled muddy snow.

The cork sheet where the ground was modeled was chosen because of its rounded corners this avoids the
cutting lines of any given scene.

51

A few views of the reversible winter jacket, which had recycled wool filling on the inside. This item of clothing had a
cloth belt, two pockets with flaps, hood (no recycled wool filling inside) and buttons on the sleeves to fasten ID tags.
The tissue for this jacket was a mixture of cotton and rayon.

52

Jagdpanzer 38 Hetzer
(Sd.Kfz. 138/2), captured
by the 26th US Infantry
Division, Schwarzbach,
Germany, May 1945.

Jagdpanzer 38 Hetzer
(Sd.Kfz. 138/2),
unidentified unit,
Czechoslovakia, May
1945.

53

By: Cristbal Vergara Durn

Picture Credits: Basilio Tante Daz

DML

1/35

When the sixties began back in the XX century, the Soviet Army made an
amphibious armored vehicle prototype that revolutionized combat techniques.
This vehicle had mobility, armoring and firepower that were quite unique
at the time.

54

his vehicle was armed with

hybrid recoil-less gun and
grenade launcher that had an
automatic 2A28 reload system. This gun
launched a PG-15 projectile that worked

at a distance of about 700 meters.

When in need for a greater distance,
they could launch a 9M14 Malyulka
(AT-3 Sagger) missile which was cable
guided and had an effective distance of

about 3000 meters. The motor was

placed on the front, while the troops
were in the rear numbering a total of
eight. All of them had periscopes and
holes to shoot from. There were two

After creating
the ventilation
holes with a
scribing tool
Ive cut to exact
size some photo
etched grilles
and glued them
on top.

The joint
between the
armored planks
on the motor
and the drivers
compartments
have been
created with a
scriber. The
periscopes are
made by M4
Models.

The opening for

the exhaust has
been detailed
using pieces
from the
Airwaves
photo etched
sheet.

large doors on the rear and four hatches

on the roof for gaining access to the
vehicle.
The first test vehicles were just called
BMPs and had a few shortcomings in
terms of suspension and ventilation.
The following vehicles improved on
these areas, and also included NBQ war
filters. Their front part was elongated
20cm for improving its water worthiness. In 1970 they received their final
name: BMP-1. Back then, the Soviet
Army was the only one in the world
with this kind of technology, and was
forced to create new combat tactics for
its use because the vehicle was rather
short, and could fire against its own
troops.
During the summer of 1973 the
Egyptian Army received 230 BMP-1s

and the Syrian Army at least 150 units

to use in the Arab-Israeli war that took
place in the same year. The Egyptians
found out its abilities and used it to
cross the Suez Canal. The vehicles
most prominent feat at the time was the
crossing of the salt works in Kantara,
taking the Israelis by surprise, because
no regular armored vehicle was able to
get there. The Syrians had a poor training, and suffered great losses in the
Golan Heights. The BMP-1 also had
some limitations: The vehicle had neither air conditioning nor ventilation,
and sometimes had to operate with the
upper hatches open. The Arabs also
complained that the vehicle exploded
completely when hit.
The Soviets used it in combat back in
1979 in Afghanistan against the slippery

Taliban and realized that this vehicle

had many shortcomings in the guerrilla
warfare arena: Reduced space for the
crew, weak lateral armoring and a limited vertical elevation of the gun that rendered the vehicle useless for enemies
ambushed high up in the mountains. As
an emergency safety measure, additional
(10mm thick) armored planks were
placed on the sides of the vehicle which
was now called the BMP-1D. In the mid
eighties the Soviet took one more step
in its development and solved the problems above and renamed the vehicle
BMP-2.
There are still two more command
versions of this vehicle: The BMP-1K,
which does not have lateral hatches for
the troops and has better radio equipment and antennas, and the BMP-1 KSh
that got rid of its weapons altogether
and placed instead a huge telescopic
antenna named Top Ball and a number of auxiliary generators.

A S S E M B L Y
There are many plastic kits devoted
to the BMP-1, but sadly all are equally
awful in terms of detail. I knew that if I
was to build a BMP, I would choose the
DML kit. I bought it many years ago
when it came out and as soon as I saw
the number of mistakes in the kit I
quickly set it aside. About a decade later
I stumbled upon Armour Tracks resin
set with new wheels and tracks for the
vehicle and decided to resume work.
Basically, all small details are misrepresented on this Chinese kit. To begin
with, I rebuilt the motors ventilation
grilles (they are solid). I created the
proper openings and placed photo
etched Aber grilles adapted for the occasion. I also created the inner filter using
wavy plasticard sheet used mainly by
train kit hobbyists.
The edge of the motors access plank
comes with a slot that sticks out too
much and had to be excised using my
hobby knife. On the spot left I traced
the joint using a scribing tool. When
doing all this you inevitably wipe off the
screws that surround the slot, so I put
new ones created with a Punch & Die
hole puncher.

55

The resin wheels have been glued using two component glue. The stops for the first and the sixth come from my spares
box, and have been detailed using Plasticard.

On the area where the front part of the

fender and the barge meet, the shape of
the pieces isnt bent in the right angle.
This means that you will have to do some
sanding, and then glue some plastic
pieces until you get the right shape.
I began detailing the kit using pieces
from the two photo etched sheets created by the Eduard and Airwaves firms.
Both are old and below standards and
have many pieces out of scale or simply
useless. I diminished the height of the
smoke exhaust on the right side of the
vehicle, and added a few details using
Evergreen-made pieces and the piece
from the Airwaves sheet. The fenders in
the rear have oversized deflectors that

The headlights come from other kits.

The cover around them has been
made using tin wire.

every door a frame made of copper wire

and built on the roof the bars for the
four hatches using 0,4mm diameter tin
wire. I also used this wire to create the
protection around the headlights.
The periscopes of the vehicle are also
very important. There are a few: eight
on the back of the roof, three on the
turret, three on the drivers hatch and
another three on the platoon chiefs
place. We have here a grand total of
seventeen periscopes. I got rid of the
oversized styrene ones and used proper
scale resin substitutes created by 4M
Models (a Spanish brand).
I continued work on the fastenings
for the tools and the tow cables, using
The gun is an
aluminum
replacement. On its
upper part (right by
the mantle) Ive
placed a rail for the
missile. The rail is
made entirely out of
Plasticard, and it has
been detailed with
copper wire.

56

The base for the antenna is the Armo

piece.

had to be replaced with the ones on the

Eduard sheet.
I also had to put some details on the
back doors, because the space for the
hinges should be smaller, and the opening guides are different. I placed around

copper sheet. I used small pieces of

plastic to create the air intakes on the
outside of this armored vehicle. The
strips of the welding remains are also
wanting, and had to be recreated using
putty and a very thin brush.

The spare track link in black colour- has molding marks; filled
here with grey putty as seen in the picture. The shape of the
hinges on the door has been slightly modified.

I finished work by replacing the

antennas support and the gun with
excellent metal substitutes created by
Armo (the Polish brand) and AltitudeACC (the Russian brand) respectively. I
also changed both wheels and track for
the Armour Track set which contains
resin wheels and movable plastic tracks.
These are obviously better than those
included in the DML kit, but my choice
of tracks has a minor glitch: Theres a
molding ejector mark that has to be
painstakingly filled with putty.

Deflectors detail.

KITS USED
Kit:
-BMP-1, DML ref. 3503, 1/35 scale.
Tracks:
-Soviet BMP APC Model 1966 Track,
Armour Track ref. TK-01.
Accessories:
-Russian radio antenna bases, Armo
ref. 35776.

-73mm 2A28 Gun, Altitude-ACC Production ref. B128.

-Periscopes, M4 MODELS ref. B128.
Photo Etched Sheets:
-BMP-1, Airwaves AFV ref. 35002.
-BMP-1, Eduard ref. 35004.
-Squared net, Aber ref. S02.

The union between the two halves of the hull on the prow had to be supplemented with pieces of plastic.

57

This upper view helps us see the

arrangement of all the elements
including the welding remains made
using Tamiya putty.

The bars that hinge the hatches in the

roof are made out of tin wire.

The deflectors on the rear fenders,

the covers for the firing slots and the
hatches on the turret are all Eduard
photo etched parts.

58

The central section of the gun has been painted in 53.

P A I N T I N G
I wanted this vehicle to be a Soviet
Army unit, and although there are several different camouflage schemes for it I
opted for a green and white one. Contrast between both of these colors make
this scheme something spectacular. I
took a color profile published on issue
#9 vol. 13 of the Tank Magazine as a
reference. I couldnt gather any more
data because this magazine is written in

Japanese, a language that Im not fluent

at all.
I began airbrushing Humbrol enamel
117 on the lower part of the hull and
the wheels. I also airbrushed some of
this color on the areas on the upper half
of the hull where the camouflage spots
should be. I did not cover the areas that
would later on get white paint because
white paint does not cover well other
colors underneath. Then I used Humbrol enamel 151 to light up all features

using the dry brush technique. I went

back to my airbrush kit and applied the
white areas on the camouflage scheme.
I think that its quite necessary to put a
drop of 117 or 64 to tone down the brilliancy of white paint, because otherwise
there would be lots of unnecessary contrast.
I then worked on the lower areas of
the vehicle doing a number of sand colored oil paint washes allowing some
drying time between each wash. I also

The greasing points on the wheels are painted in 60. The lower parts of the vehicle have a number of sand colored oil
paint washes.

59

Soot has been

created by
airbrushing
highly diluted
Letraset ink 680
and then 900

The periscopes
have a black
colored edge
and the glass
piece in these
contains a
mixture of 89,
33 and 117.

The only decal

on the vehicle
is a small Guard
insignia on the
platoon leaders
headlight.

COLOUR CHART
HUMBROL (enamels)
33 matt black
34 matt white
53 gunmetal
56 aluminium
60 matt scarlet
64 matt leather
89 matt middle blue
93 mat desert yellow
117 matt US light green
151 interior light green
VAN GOGH (oils)
234 raw Sienna
408 raw umber
409 burnt umber
411 burnt Sienna
MIG PRODUCTIONS
(pigments)
P028 Europe dust
P037 Gulf war sand
LETRASET (inks)
680 sepia brown
900 black
MARABU (varnish)
110605 gloss varnish
110805 flat varnish

BIBLIOGRAPHY

60

applied a filter on the upper half of the

hull using enamels 64 and 93. Right
afterwards I created a few paint chips: I
used on the green areas a dark green
mixture obtained by mixing 33 and 117,
and on the white areas used a reddish
brown rust- color obtained by mixing
33and 60. In the white areas I applied
small and thin paint chips, because they
jump out too much on white.
Then I painted all the accessories and
the tracks (see picture captions) and
mat varnished the entire vehicle using
my airbrush kit. I also created a glass
effect on the periscopes by gloss varnishing with a brush the glass area on
the periscopes. For the last touch I used
some Mig Productions pigments and did
a wash with them on the track and

wheels and also a better diluted wash

on the base of the turret. I used P028
for the tracks and P037 for the turret.

- ZALOGA, Steven J. BMP

Infantry Combat Vehicle, in
Concord No. 1006, Concord
Publications, Hong Kong, 1990.
- ZALOGA, Steven J. BMP
Infantry Fighting Vehicle 19671984, in New Vanguard No.
12, Osprey Publishing, London,
1994.
- SEVERAL AUTHORS BMP-1
Soviet Armored Fighting Vehicle
in Detail, in Present Vehicle
Line No. 1, Wing & Wheels
Publications, Prague, 1995.
- SAKURAI, Alsufi. Details of
BMP-1/2, in Tank Magazine
No. 8, vol. 13, Sensha
Magazine, Tokio, 1990.
- SAKURAI, Alsufi, Details of
BMP-1/2, in Tank Magazine
No. 9, Vol. 13, Sensha
Magazine, Tokio, 1990.

Base color on the tracks is a mixture of Humbrol enamels 33 and 53 and later dry brushed using the last reference and 56.
Rusty areas have been created with oil washes on 411.

Enamel washes on 60 mixed with 33 have been made on the covers for the fuel deposit and the axis of all wheels.

61

Modelling lessosn

By: Fernando Gonzlez Snchez

Picture Credits: Fernando Caellas
Planchuelo and Ral Fernndez Ruiz

PAINTING A BOX
There are countless accessories in the market for model kit vehicles, but there
is always an opening for something that we can create ourselves.
here are countless accessories in
the market for model kit vehicles,
but there is always an opening for
something that we can create ourselves.
We will do an ammunition box on a
1/16 scale using plastic sheet about
1mm thick. The lines of the different

wood planks can be etched with a scribing tool. Evergreen however has a range of plastic sheets with different textures on the market destined primarily to
model kit train collectors.
Whats interesting about this simple
job is basically painting it. This process

has been photographed step by step and

can also apply to the 1/35 and 1/48 scales. The text right by the pictures
informs about the mixtures used, and
the different kinds of paint employed on
every step.

The sheet is brushed a number of

times following the sense of the wood
texture that you want to recreate.

Wood texture can be created on plastic using an iron brush or a metallic

kitchen scrub.

Plastic remains are eliminated using a

kitchen scrub.

The walls of the box are glued

together using liquid glue for plastic
applied with a brush.

62

The edges of the box where the

pieces of wood are fitted together
are marked with a pick

Metal pieces are 0,25mm thick plastic

strips, and the hinges are heat
stretched plastic pieces (see Panzer
Aces/Armor Models No. 22). The
tiny spots where the nails are placed
are created with a small superficial
drilling.

Base color is an airbrushed mixture of

50% XF-52 and 50% XF-60.
Afterwards we apply some overtones
with the first color mentioned.

The upper part of each piece of

timber is highlighted with a mixture
of Panzer Aces 315 and 313. We will
exaggerate the effect, because later
processes will tone it down.

Profiling of boards, and texturing of

the dark areas in each piece of
timber are both achieved with an
overall oil paint wash on 74 diluted
on White Spirit. The brush has been
guided perpendicular to the lines of
the wood texture in order to create
signs of dirt

Rust on all metal parts has been

recreated using the three rust
references of the Panzer Aces color
range. Rust trails are made using 303
highly diluted in water.

Another example of a box. In this

particular example, the wood lists are
hand painted with a slight variation
in color tone, the upper parts being
painted in a lighter color.

This is the final result after having

followed the steps described.

The lower part of the box has been

darkened with oil washes on 74.

Overview of the painted boxes.

We have to tie this carefully to the finished vehicles.

Copper wire is being used, and then painted in rust
colors.

63

Publishing Manager
Rodrigo Hernndez Cabos
Editor in Chief
Carlos de Diego Vaquerizo
Translated by
ndres Snchez Gonzlez

EDITORIAL
The thousand and one Tigers which were made never cease to be a surprise
among us because of the numerous versions and variations possible; we can get
a lot from a Tiger kit. We are featuring on this issue a new author, Steve Palffy
who sends us a highly attractive kit all the way from Australia. We offer also a
number of camouflage schemes on our color profiles featuring the initial run of
this famous heavy tank.
Juan Carlos Toledo has made a most remarkable version of the Humber Mk. I
scout car. He has made a number of improvements on this small yet attractive
showpiece kit. He used resin wheels and a number of photo etched pieces. The
author also points out a number of corrections made on the vehicle for
accuracys sake. The photographic review that follows documents many of the
corrections pointed out.
We firmly believe that military vehicle kits should be featured alongside scale
figures. Illustrating these criteria we include a review by Jos Manuel Flores
where we are introduced to a German NCO wearing a camouflage uniform.
Whenever possible as is the case here- we include photographs of the real item
of clothing.
Using few well combined elements; we can create little descriptive scenes of
a high quality level. The work that Javier Franco has carried out successfully
includes a crane, reflectors, a piece of a wagon and some figures. The ensemble
is a well balanced original composition.
Joaqun Garca Gzquez, always follows his hobbyist convictions and works
with all the different scales available. He has made a composition on 1/48
showing a simple winter scene, that enhances the vehicle. The remarkable work
on the figures gives the job an extra lift.
We are showcasing now a modern armored vehicle from the hands of our
expert on Soviet issues, Cristbal Vergara Durn. He introduces us to a BMP-1,
and he has used a number of different elements including a few available hightech gadgets such as the metal gun and antenna. An attractive paint job gives
further shine to this modern vehicle.
Closing this issue, we have in our Modelling Lessons section the step by step
directions for building and painting a wooden box that will be a useful
complement for just about any model kit vehicle available.
We feature a varied range of showpieces demonstrating great hobby skills.

Rodrigo Hernndez Cabos

64

Have collaborated in this issue:

Steve Palffy
Juan Carlos Toledo Miranda
Jos Manuel Flores Prez
Jordi Escarr Gonzlez
J. F. Borsarello
Javier Franco Manzano
Joaqun Garca Gzquez
Cristbal Vergara Durn
Basilio Tante Daz
Fernando Gonzlez Snchez
Photographers
Rodrigo Hernndez Cabos
Fernando Caellas Planchuelo
Ral Fernndez Ruiz
Illustrations
Carlos de Diego Vaquerizo
Lay Out
Ral Fernndez Ruiz
KOMMAD S.L.
Printed by
IBERGRAPHIC 2002
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ACCIN PRESS, S.A.
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Ral Fernndez Ruiz
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J.David Hernndez Chacn
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