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Heat In
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Contents
INTRODUCTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
CHAPTER 1 How Your House Works . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
PART l The Basics. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
PART II Control of Heat Flow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
PART III Control of Airflow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
PART IV Control of Moisture Flow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
PART V The House as a System in Action . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
PART VI Older Homes and Heritage Buildings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
CHAPTER 2 Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
PART I Insulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
PART II Air-Barrier Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
PART III Vapour-Barrier Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
PART IV Health and Safety Considerations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
PART V Special Health Considerations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
CHAPTER 3 Comprehensive Air-Leakage Control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
PART I Finding Leakage Areas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
PART II Caulking and Other Air-Sealing Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
CHAPTER 4 Roofs and Attics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
PART I General Considerations for All Attics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
PART II Easily Accessible Attics. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
PART III Houses with Half Storeys. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
PART IV Special Cases. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
PART V Renovations and Repair. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
CHAPTER 5 Basement Insulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
PART I How to Insulate Outside the Basement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
PART II How to Insulate Inside the Basement. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
PART III Crawl Spaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
PART IV Open Foundations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
PART V Concrete Slab on the Ground . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
CHAPTER 6 Insulating Walls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
PART I Blown-In Insulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
PART II Renovating the Interior . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
PART III Renovating the Exterior. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
PART IV Miscellaneous Spaces. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
PART V Additions and New Construction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
CHAPTER 7 Upgrading Windows and Doors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
PART I Windows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
PART II Doors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
CHAPTER 8 Operating Your House . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
PART I Operating and Maintaining the Heating System . . . . . . . . . 115
PART II The Heating System and Ventilation and Combustion Air . . 118
PART III Other Features . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
CHAPTER 9 Dollars and Sense . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Need More Information?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
Keeping the Heat In
Introduction
How Your House Works Materials Air-Leakage Control Roofs and Attics
Chapter 1 Chapter 2 Chapter 3 Chapter 4
What Is Retrofitting?
Retrofitting a house is simply upgrading
it so that it will keep the heat in. This
means adding insulation, caulking and
weatherstripping, improving or replac-
ing windows and doors, and improving
the heating system. Retrofitting also
means including energy-efficiency mea-
sures in all your renovation and repair
activities. In our climate, retrofitting
usually makes a lot of sense.
2
Keeping the Heat In • Introduction
Basement Insulation Insulating Walls Windows and Doors Operating Your House Dollars and Sense
Chapter 5 Chapter 6 Chapter 7 Chapter 8 Chapter 9
You may want to make up a list of Save Money Although each house is unique, some
recommended measures and approach Improving your home’s energy efficiency general statements can still be made
the landlord with your suggestions. If is one of the best investments you can about retrofit opportunities.
the landlord pays the heating bill, the make, paying tax-free dividends imme- • Virtually all houses will benefit from
benefits are obvious. If you pay the heat- diately in the form of lower heating air-leakage control. Weatherstripping
ing bill, the landlord will have a happy costs. Home insulation is better than and sealants will stop drafts, save
tenant and a more valuable house. just about any other low-risk, long-term money, improve comfort and protect
Why Retrofit? investment you can make. the structure. See Chapters 3 and 7
Energy Efficiency All this aside, the investment is still a for details. You should also consider
good one since it is an investment in moisture control and ventilation to
Perhaps most important, retrofitting a
the conservation of our valuable energy reduce the chance of condensation
home costs less than producing new
supplies, and this means we all benefit problems.
energy supplies to heat it. Fully 15 per-
cent of Canada’s annual energy use is to from environmental conservation. • Many houses will benefit from a
heat our homes, and this energy comes complete heating-system tune-up.
mostly from non-renewable resources Retrofit Opportunities This should analyse and correct any
such as oil and gas. problems with the furnace or boiler,
What retrofit strategies are best for you?
the distribution system and the
Comfort You will have to determine what shape
controls. Upgrading or replacing the
A well-insulated, air-sealed house is a your house is in and what can be done
unit with a high-efficiency model
comfortable home. An insulated, tighter to improve it.
will provide substantial savings. See
house is also a much quieter house, Check the interior and exterior for signs Chapter 8 for a summary.
and there is less dust and pollen to of moisture damage and structural prob-
worry about. • Insulate a poorly insulated attic. If
lems, maintenance and repair needs,
there is less than 150 mm (6 in.)
A Sound House renovation opportunities, the level and
of insulation in the attic, it will be
condition of insulation, and air-leakage
By considering energy efficiency as part worthwhile putting more in. It is
paths. Some utilities offer an audit
of your home’s maintenance and repair, important to provide a good air seal
service to help you assess your needs;
your house will be in better shape. And first. See Chapter 4 for details.
call your local utility to see if this service
by improving your home’s air and mois-
is available. Some contractors also offer • Insulate an empty frame wall. If there
ture control, your retrofit work should
assessments; check your local Yellow is no insulation in a frame wall, it is
last longer and look better.
Pages™ directory. worthwhile blowing in insulation to
fill the cavity. See Chapter 6 for details.
3
Keeping the Heat In • Introduction
• Insulate the basement. Basements How to Use This Book There are many forces at work in a
are areas of significant heat loss in Every homeowner should read Chapters house: structural loading, the effects of
most houses. If the insulating can be 1, 2 and 8. This will provide important wind and weather, and flows of mois-
combined with damp-proofing on background information on retrofit ture, heat and air. These must be kept in
the exterior or finishing the inside, it techniques and materials. Read other the right balance. Adding insulation, air
will be doubly worthwhile. See chapters as required for specific details. barriers and vapour barriers can affect
Chapter 5 for details. Why not skim through each chapter to moisture conditions, ventilation and
see what might be right for your house combustion air. Chapter 1 discusses
• Make the most of repair and reno-
and renovation plans? Remember, this in detail and should be read by all
vation work. Almost all repairs and
improving the energy efficiency of your homeowners.
renovations you do around the house
can have an energy-efficient com- house is an ongoing process – it is
ponent piggybacked onto the work. accomplished bit by bit as you work on
You will find useful ideas throughout your house over the years. Keep this
this book. book as a handy reference.
4
Keeping the Heat In • Introduction
5
1How Your House Works
Keeping the Heat In
The Basics
Part I
INTRODUCTION
It is important to understand how your
house works before starting any retrofit
work. This will ensure that the job will
meet your expectations and that you
won’t be causing new problems while
solving old ones.
This chapter will describe the basic
building science that is important for
successful retrofit work. It will explain
how building-science principles are used
successfully to control the flow of heat,
air and moisture and why these should
be considered together.
6
Keeping the Heat In 1 How Your House Works
Control of Heat Flow Control of Airflow Control of The House as a Older Homes and
Part II Part III Moisture Flow System in Action Heritage Buildings
Part IV Part V Part VI
7
Keeping the Heat In 1 How Your House Works
n Convection. Heat can also be trans- Under winter conditions, air is forced n Stack Effect. In a heated home,
ferred by the movement of a fluid through the building envelope. Air mov- the less dense warm air rises and
such as water or air. In an uninsu- ing out carries heat and moisture, while expands, creating a higher-pressure
lated wall space, for instance, air air moving in brings uncomfortable area near the top of the house. Air
picks up heat from the warm wall drafts and dry winter air. escapes through holes in the ceiling
and then circulates to the cold wall and cracks around upper-storey
For air to move from one side to the
where it loses the heat. Some heat is windows. The force of the rising
other, there must be a hole in the enve-
also transferred by the mixing of air creates lower pressure near the
lope and a difference in air pressure
warm and cold air. bottom of the house, and outside air
between the inside and outside. The dif-
rushes in through cracks and open-
n Radiation. Any object will radiate ference in air pressure can be caused by
ings around the lower floors.
heat in the same way that the sun any combination of:
radiates heat. When you stand in n Combustion and Ventilation Effect.
• wind;
front of a cold window, you radiate Appliances that burn fuels such as
heat to the window and so you feel • a temperature difference creating a wood, oil or natural gas need air to
cold, even though the room tempera- “stack effect” in the home; and support combustion and provide the
ture may be high. draft in the chimney. Open chimneys
• combustion appliances or exhaust
and fireplaces tend to exhaust lots of
fans.
air. This air must be replaced, and
The Envelope and Airflow
n Wind Effect. When wind blows outside air will be drawn in through
Uncontrolled airflow through the enve- against the house, it creates a high- the envelope. This is why people often
lope can be a major source of heat loss pressure area on the windward side, notice that the room becomes drafty
and can lead to other problems. Since and air is forced into the house. when there’s a fire in the fireplace.
warm air can carry large amounts of There is a low-pressure area on the
water vapour, airflow is also the main Ventilation fans in the kitchen and bath-
leeward side (and sometimes other
means by which moisture is carried into room, central vacuum systems, stove-
sides) where air is forced out.
the envelope. top grills, clothes dryers and other
exhaust fans also cause this effect.
8
Keeping the Heat In 1 How Your House Works
The Envelope and Moisture n Gravity. Water running down a roof n Air Movement. As water vapour,
Moisture can cause concrete to crumble, or condensation running down a moisture is carried by moving air, for
wood to rot and paint to peel; it can window pane shows how gravity example, where there is air leakage
also damage plaster and ruin carpets. causes water to move downward. through a crack in the house envelope.
In its many forms, moisture is a n Capillary Action. Water can also Far more moisture can be carried by
major cause of damage to building move sideways or upward by capillary airflow through a small hole in the
components. action. Capillary action depends on envelope than by diffusion through the
Moisture can appear in the form of a the presence of very narrow spaces, as building materials.
solid, a liquid or a gas (water vapour). with lapped siding or porous materi-
Moisture can originate from outside as als such as concrete or soil (think of
Condensation
ground water in the soil or as ice, snow, how a paper towel absorbs water).
Water vapour becomes a problem when
rain, fog and surface run-off, or from n Diffusion. Water vapour can also it condenses into liquid water. This
inside in the form of water vapour pro- move directly through materials by happens at the point of 100 percent
duced by the house occupants and their diffusion. Diffusion depends on a relative humidity, when the air cannot
activities, such as washing, cleaning, difference in water-vapour pressure hold more water vapour.
cooking and using humidifiers. and the material’s resistance to this
pressure. A typical example is condensation on
In its different forms, moisture can
windows. When the air contacts the
move through the envelope in a number
cold window it loses heat. Since the air
of ways.
has become cooler, it can no longer
hold all the water vapour, and some
condenses out onto the surface of
the window.
9
Keeping the Heat In 1 How Your House Works
One small air leak can let through 100 times as much
moisture as will travel by diffusion over a much larger area. Condensation occurs when moist air meets a cool surface.
If the window is extremely cold, the con- affects the performance of the house as a Before beginning any retrofit work, it’s a
densation will appear as frost. Because whole. Understanding these relation- good idea to review what’s involved and
the interior surface of a single-glazed ships is the secret to avoiding problems. to understand which other aspects of
window is colder than that of a double- the house may be affected. Thinking
For example, reducing air leakage
glazed window, a single-glazed window is things through and careful planning in
makes the house more comfortable and
more likely to have problems with con- the early stages of work will prevent
protects the envelope from moisture
densation or frost buildup, even under unpleasant surprises and ensure that the
damage. But it will also increase humi-
conditions of lower humidity. work meets your expectations.
dity levels since less water vapour
Condensation is more likely to occur in
escapes. This can mean an increase of Further information on the effect that
humid areas of the house such as the
condensation on windows. retrofit work has on the house as a sys-
kitchen and bathroom.
tem is included in the balance of this
The lesson here is that a change to one
chapter and in Chapters 3 and 8. If you
component of the house can have an
The House as a System have any questions, talk to an expert or
immediate effect on another compo-
Although this book concentrates on a contractor who is familiar with the prin-
nent. The combined effect of many
improvements to the house envelope, it’s ciples of how a house works as a system.
small changes over time can also affect
important to remember that the house the balance of the system.
operates as a system. All the elements of
a house, the environment, envelope,
mechanical systems and occupant
activities affect each other, and the result
10
Keeping the Heat In 1 How Your House Works
Metric Conversion
Uninsulated wall Insulated wall
to obtain multiply by
RSI value overall R-value overall 0.1761
RSI/mm 1 R/in. 0.00693
11
Keeping the Heat In 1 How Your House Works
12
Keeping the Heat In 1 How Your House Works
3500 – 5000 DD
5000 – 6500 DD
over 6500 DD
Note: Each zone on the map represents an area that experiences a similar number of
degree-days. Degree-days are a measure of heating demand based on the difference
between the average daily outdoor temperature and 18°C (65°F). Cumulative totals for the
month or heating season are used to estimate heating energy needs.
Zone A B C D
13
Keeping the Heat In 1 How Your House Works
14
Keeping the Heat In 1 How Your House Works
The air barrier is a To make sure that you’ve accounted for a continuous air barrier, make a sketch of the wall, attic or
system that joins foundation that you plan to retrofit. Then take a coloured pencil and trace a line through all the air
many different barrier components on the sketch without lifting the pencil from the paper.
building
components.
different components that are sealed to the control of airflow. The other essen-
each other. Typical components of the tial steps are providing ventilation air
air-barrier system are described below. and air for combustion in a controlled
manner. These steps may be necessary
• Polyethylene, drywall or plaster are
in houses where extensive retrofit and
used for large surfaces such as walls
renovation work has been done, where
and ceilings.
the house is heated with a reduced flue-
• Windows, doors, hatches, vent action heating system (e.g., electricity or
dampers and any components that a high-efficiency gas system) or where
close an opening in the envelope also there are special ventilation needs. It is a
form part of the air barrier. good idea to take a systematic look at
the moisture balance and ventilation
• In some cases, even structural parts
needs of your house.
of the building, such as the sill
To be effective, the air barrier must be
plate or rim joist, form part of the
the following:
air-barrier system. Providing Controlled Ventilation
• resistant to air movement; Years ago, homes were ventilated by
• Caulking, gaskets and weatherstrip-
• rigid and strong enough to withstand ping are used to seal the joints between opening windows and doors and by
air-pressure differences; the components to ensure that the uncontrolled air movement, but this
air-barrier system is continuous. method was not always comfortable or
• durable; and effective. In cold, windy weather, too
• continuous, by sealing all seams, much air could be drawn into the
How Tight an Air Barrier? house, causing high fuel bills and
edges, gaps, holes or tears.
For an air barrier to work, it must be uncomfortable drafts. Often, in spring
Because of the many components that continuous and well sealed. and fall, not enough fresh air would be
make up the house envelope, including supplied.
walls, foundations, doors and windows, But if the air barrier is tight, how will
it’s impossible for any one material to fresh air get into the house? First, most With uncontrolled airflow stopped by
surround the house completely and older houses are so loosely built that, an air-barrier system, it is now possible
form the air barrier. The air barrier is even after extensive air-leakage-control to provide comfortable, effective ventila-
actually a system made up of many work, enough air will still come in to tion year-round.
provide ventilation. Second, remember
that the air barrier is just the first step in
15
Keeping the Heat In 1 How Your House Works
16
Keeping the Heat In 1 How Your House Works
17
Keeping the Heat In 1 How Your House Works
18
Keeping the Heat In 1 How Your House Works
19
Keeping the Heat In 1 How Your House Works
Air barriers are described on pages As a general rule, the vapour barrier
14 to 17. Although less moisture can should be on the warm side of the insu- the outside. In this way, any vapour that
be moved into the envelope by vapour lation. In some cases, however, the penetrates the envelope can escape to
diffusion, it is still important to provide vapour barrier can be located within the the outside.
a vapour barrier. An effective vapour wall or ceiling assembly, provided that at
Some wall systems work well with a rela-
barrier must be the following: least two thirds of the insulation value
tively impermeable insulated sheathing
of the wall is on the cold side of the
• resistant to vapour diffusion; because the interior wall-cavity tempera-
vapour barrier. Because this ratio should
tures are kept high. As a precaution,
• durable; be adjusted for houses with high interior
when retrofitting a wall, always ensure
humidity or for homes in extremely cold
• installed on the warm side of the that the interior surfaces are vapour-
climates, it is recommended that you
insulation; and resistant.
consult a professional builder-renovator,
• not necessarily continuous. who will apply the specifications out- Some siding applications have an air
lined in the National Building Code of space immediately behind the exterior
A number of building materials resist
Canada. finish to promote drying out of materi-
vapour diffusion well enough to be
als that have been soaked by rain or
used as vapour barriers. These include 4. Letting the envelope “breathe” to
dampness. This air space also provides
polyethylene, oil-based paints and the outside allows the house to deal
an escape route for any moisture that
special vapour-barrier paints, some with seasonal fluctuations in humidity
has penetrated the wall cavity from the
insulation materials and exterior-grade and to release any moisture that does
indoors. This type of installation should
plywood. Different materials may act as penetrate the envelope from the interior
not be used with insulated siding as
the vapour barrier in different parts of or exterior. This is accomplished in two
convection in the air space will negate
the house. ways. The materials of the envelope are
the effect of the insulated backer board
layered, with those most resistant to
The same material may work as both an on the siding.
vapour diffusion located on the warm
air barrier and a vapour barrier, pro-
side of the envelope and the least resis-
vided it meets both requirements and is
tant (such as building paper) located on
20
Keeping the Heat In 1 How Your House Works
21
Keeping the Heat In 1 How Your House Works
22
Keeping the Heat In 1 How Your House Works
material. Insul-brick may have replaced Doors: Preserving the original doors is
the original stucco, or permastone may important to the overall appearance of
have replaced the original cement an older home. Careful weatherstripping
parging. These situations provide the will improve their performance. As
opportunity to retrofit from the exterior with windows, avoid aluminum storms.
and, at the same time, copy the original A better alternative is to restore the
finish. enclosed vestibule that is found in most
older homes.
Windows: Windows are one of the
most important aspects of a home’s
originality. Careful weatherstripping of
older, single-pane, wood-frame win-
dows will do much to improve their
energy efficiency. If the original wooden
storm windows have been destroyed, it’s
possible to have custom wood storms
made to order. If the object is to pre-
serve the appearance of the building,
avoid metal storms or storm-and-screen
combinations.
If exterior wood storms are not desirable
because of the maintenance factor,
interior storms offer a good alternative.
These are less noticeable than exterior
metal storms, and they can be made to
fit on the sash or the window trim. If
the window sash is badly deteriorated,
replacement units can be made to fit the
existing frame.
23
2 Materials
Keeping the Heat In
INTRODUCTION
Whether you’re doing the work yourself
or hiring a contractor, it’s important to
know what the right materials are for
your particular job. Choosing the right
materials and installing them properly
will ensure that the finished product
lives up to your expectations.
This chapter describes the three types of
materials used when keeping the heat
in: insulation, air-barrier materials and
vapour-barrier materials.
Review the chapters in this book that
deal specifically with your particular
project and use this information to
choose the most appropriate materials.
24
Keeping the Heat In 2 Materials
25
Keeping the Heat In 2 Materials
Insulations are manufactured from a Summary of Insulation Types • Will not settle.
wide range of materials, including Batt or Blanket Insulation • Some products are non-combustible
melted glass spun into fibres, expanded
Batt or blanket insulation is relatively (check with the manufacturer).
volcanic rock, recycled newsprint and
easy to install in accessible spaces such
foam plastic. Loose-Fill Insulation
as exposed wall cavities and some attics.
However, there are only four basic It conforms to slight surface irregulari- Loose-fill insulation is made from a
forms of insulation that provide a ready ties and can be cut to fit. Safety variety of materials, with particles rang-
means of classification: batt or blankets, equipment and protective clothing ing in texture from granular to fluffy.
loose-fill insulation, rigid or semi-rigid are required during installation. Loose-fill insulation is excellent for fill-
boards, and spray-foam insulation. The ing irregular or inaccessible spaces. It is
Mineral Fibre suitable for walls and floors and excel-
following are detailed descriptions of all
• Includes 0.022 RSI/mm (3.2 R/in.) lent in attics and enclosed spaces such as
these categories.
glass fibre. roofs where the space between the joists
• Includes 0.023 RSI/mm (3.3 R/in.) may be irregular or cluttered with obsta-
mineral wool. cles. It is often handy for filling small
spaces or covering ceiling joists. It is not
• Is available in batts or continuous appropriate for below-grade application.
rolls (blankets).
26
Keeping the Heat In 2 Materials
27
Keeping the Heat In 2 Materials
28
Keeping the Heat In 2 Materials
29
Keeping the Heat In 2 Materials
• Manufactured in the following two • Usually come double-faced with foil • Suitable for areas where space is at a
densities: or are sometimes bonded with an premium but high RSI values are
interior or exterior finishing material. required.
– low density with an insulating
value from 0.033 RSI/mm • Faced boards have a typical insulating • Typical insulating value of 0.030
(4.7 R/in.) to 0.035 RSI/mm value of 0.040 RSI/mm (5.8 R/in.) RSI/mm (4.3 R/in.) open cell and
(5.0 R/in.); and to 0.050 RSI/mm (7.2 R/in.) and 0.058 RSI/mm (8.3 R/in.) closed cell
come in a variety of sizes. (based on manufacturer’s literature).
– high density with an insulating
value of 0.035 RSI/mm (5.0 R/in.). • Must be protected from prolonged • Must be protected from exposure to
exposure to sunlight and water. sunlight and water.
• Must be protected from prolonged
exposure to sunlight or solvents. • Must be covered with a fire-resistant Spray-Foam Insulation
material. This type of insulation is mixed on the
• If joints are sealed properly, can per-
form as an air barrier, and certain • Can act as an air barrier (if seams are job site by the contractor or installer.
thicknesses may perform as a vapour well sealed) and as a vapour barrier. The liquid foam is sprayed directly
barrier. onto the building surface or poured into
• Use generally limited to areas where a enclosed cavities using a spray gun
• When installed on interior surfaces, high RSI is desired and space is at a driven by a pump. The foam expands in
must be covered with a fire-resistant premium. place and sets in seconds. The installa-
material that is mechanically fastened tion contractor should be trained in the
Phenolic Foam Boards
to the building structure. application of the specific product.
• Manufactured from phenol
Polyurethane and Polyisocyanurate formaldehyde resin. Some panels Polyurethane Foam
Boards have a water-repellant exterior skin • A pale yellow foam of closed cells
• Plastic boards made of closed cells on both sides. containing refrigerant gases (fluoro-
containing refrigerant gases (fluoro- carbons).
carbons) instead of air.
30
Keeping the Heat In 2 Materials
31
Keeping the Heat In 2 Materials
33
Keeping the Heat In 2 Materials
• Durable (10-year life expectancy). • Excellent for large moving joints: Urethane Foam Sealant
up to 25 mm (1 in.) joint width and • Available in a dispensing system with
• Available in a wide range of colours;
12 to 50 percent joint movement. spray nozzles or individual aerosol
paintable.
spray cans.
• Highly durable (over 20-year life
• Can attract dust over time, especially
expectancy). • Foam types are available with dif-
when used next to floors.
ferent rates of expansion depending
• Most types not paintable.
Butyl Rubber on ingredients and the amount of
• A synthetic rubber sealant. • Available in several colours and clear; pre-curing. Check the cans carefully
clear silicone is particularly suited for for details on sizes of cracks that can
• Bonds to most surfaces; particularly
sealing highly visible joints where the be filled. Some types expand slowly
suited to metal and masonry.
caulking should not be noticeable. and moderately; others expand
• Appropriate for a joint width up to quickly and greatly. Use gloves and
• Ventilation required during applica-
13 mm (1⁄2 in.); accepts some move- a drop cloth.
tion and curing.
ment of joint (5 to 10 percent).
• Bonds well to most surfaces except
Polysulphide Sealant
• Durable (10-year life expectancy). polyethylene, teflon or silicone plastics.
• Produces a flexible sealant upon curing.
• Available in a variety of colours; • Very good for filling larger joints and
• Ideally suited for use on stone,
paintable after one week’s curing. cavities where conventional sealant
masonry and concrete surfaces when
materials would not be suitable (i.e.,
• Ventilation required during applica- used with a special primer.
header/joist intersections and around
tion and curing (up to three days).
• Maximum joint width of 25 mm plumbing and vent openings).
Silicone Sealant (1 in.); will accept joint movement
• Should not be used at window head-
• Solvent-free silicone compound; of 12 to 25 percent.
ers since it can transfer structural
produces a flexible, watertight seal
• Excellent durability (over 25-year loads if the wall settles.
upon curing.
life expectancy).
• Good durability (10- to 20-year life
• Good adhesion to most surfaces;
• Available in several colours; expectancy).
primers may be required on wood,
paintable.
steel or anodized aluminum. • Like all insulating foams, must be
• Ventilation required to remove covered with a fire-resistant material.
potentially toxic vapours.
• Ventilation required to remove
potentially toxic vapours.
34
Keeping the Heat In 2 Materials
High-Temperature Stove or Muffler Sill Plate Gasket • Electrical outlet gaskets are more
Cements • Polyethylene foam strips. effective when caulked and should be
• For use in areas where there are high used in conjunction with child-safety
• Installed between the foundation and
temperatures but no joint movement. plugs to reduce air leakage through
sill plate during construction or
electrical sockets.
• Typically used in conjunction with where existing house walls meet a
other materials for sealing around new addition. Foam Backer Rod
masonry or factory-built chimneys. • Closed-cell compressible foam “rope.”
• Available in 152- and 203-mm
Gaskets (6- and 8-in.) widths on 24-m (79- • Excellent for filling deep gaps before
Several specialty gaskets have been ft.) rolls. caulking.
developed for sealing joints where Electrical Outlet and Lighting • Available in diameters of 6 to 51 mm
caulking may not be appropriate. Fixture Gaskets (1⁄4 to 2 in.).
• Foam gaskets are designed to fit
behind the cover plates of electrical
receptacles, switches and lighting
mounts, reducing air leakage into
walls and attics.
35
Keeping the Heat In 2 Materials
Neoprene Gasket
• Flexible and very durable.
• Excellent for sealing joints and pene-
trations where movement is to be
Spring vinyl Spring metal Magnetic strip
expected, such as plumbing stacks.
Weatherstripping
Weatherstripping is used to block air
leakage around doors and the operable
parts of windows. Weatherstripping
comes in a variety of shapes; it can be
a flat strip, tube or “V” shape and can
be designed to work under compression Door sweep Full threshold Spring loaded
or by sliding along the joint. To be Types of weatherstripping
effective, the product must close the
gap and not allow air to pass.
When choosing weatherstripping, con- Closed-Cell Foam Tubular Stripping
sider the size of the gap to be sealed and • An adhesive-backed foam stripping • Tubular material made with either its
the durability, ease of installation and available in rolls. own attachment area or on an attach-
appearance of the product. Look for ment strip of a different material.
• Easy to install.
products that are flexible and that • Rubber type (as opposed to plastic)
spring back to their original shape • Available as a high-performance com-
should be used because it is more
quickly and easily. Avoid products that pressible polyurethane strip with its
durable.
make it difficult to operate the window own carrier.
or door. • Generally used as a window or door
Ribbed Closed-Cell Rubber
weatherstrip; installed with nails, sta-
Compression Strips • An adhesive-backed stripping avail-
ples or screws, depending on the type
Use compression strips where there is a able in rolls.
of attachment strip.
pressure stress, such as at the bottom of • Very durable; easy to install.
vertical sliding windows, along attic • Highly noticeable when installed.
hatches or on hinged windows and doors. • Good for irregular surfaces but less
appropriate for accommodating long
or varied gap widths.
36
Keeping the Heat In 2 Materials
37
Keeping the Heat In 2 Materials
38
Keeping the Heat In 2 Materials
Like an air barrier, the vapour barrier barrier for walls and ceilings. Areas that
PART III can be made up of different materials; most often require special applications
VAPOUR-BARRIER even some existing building components of vapour barriers include interlocking
MATERIALS such as plywood, paint or vinyl ceiling tiles and new drywall. Pay spe-
wallpaper may form part of the cial attention to areas of high humidity,
Requirements for
vapour barrier. such as kitchens and bathrooms.
Vapour Barriers
The vapour barrier is
an important compo- Vapour-Barrier Components Choosing Vapour Barrier
nent of the house enve- The effectiveness of vapour-barrier Materials
lope; it provides some protection from material is measured in terms of its Any material used as a vapour barrier will
moisture damage to the structure and “perm” rating. The lower the perm need to be durable and resistant to mois-
the insulation materials. To be effective, rating, the more effective the ture flow. Once these characteristics are
the vapour barrier must be: vapour barrier. met, the following factors should be
considered:
• resistant to the flow of water vapour; Materials that are considered to be
effective vapour barriers include the • Is it easy to install?
• durable; and
following:
• Can the material also act as insula-
• located on the warm side
• polyethylene; tion or an air barrier?
of insulation.
• aluminum foil; • Is it appropriate to the other work
The vapour barrier does not need to be
being done on the home?
perfectly continuous like an air barrier, • some types of paints;
but it should cover as much of the
• some types and thicknesses
building envelope as possible. Although
of insulation;
it needs to be located on the warm side
of the insulation, the vapour barrier can • vinyl wallpaper; and
be installed part way into the wall,
• exterior-grade plywood.
provided that no more than one third
of the insulating value of the wall is on In most older houses, the layers of oil-
the warm side of the vapour barrier. based primer paint and varnish finishes
This should be reduced to one quarter can function as an adequate vapour
or less of the insulating value in very
cold climates or in buildings with high
moisture sources such as swimming
pools.
39
Keeping the Heat In 2 Materials
40
Keeping the Heat In 2 Materials
41
Keeping the Heat In 2 Materials
42
Keeping the Heat In 2 Materials
Being cautious when working with If you have special health concerns, you
PART V materials can also reduce exposure for may also wish to seek advice from your
SPECIAL HEALTH you and your family. Segregate the work allergist or family doctor, who may be
CONSIDERATIONS area, using sheets of plastic if necessary, able to help you select materials that are
and don’t wear work clothing in other more easily tolerated. For the chemically
Retrofitting poses poten-
areas of the house. Keep the work area sensitive, this may involve a series of
tial health problems for
clean, vacuuming frequently. Store exposure tests to small samples of
people with allergies,
materials outside of the house until they material. Your allergist also may be
asthma or chemical
are needed, and keep caulking tubes, able to direct you to contractors who
sensitivities. The
insulation bundles and paint cans are experienced in undertaking renova-
following are options for those
closely covered when not in use. Provide tion work for clients with allergies or
in that situation:
additional ventilation to the work area chemical sensitivities.
• Choose materials carefully. and to the whole house while work is in
progress and during curing periods.
• Take extra precautions when working
with the material. Health considerations may be a major
factor in the decision to insulate from
• Plan the work to minimize exposure.
the outside of the house instead of the
Some materials are less troublesome inside. If you do work from the inside,
than others. By carefully choosing plan the job so that it’s done as quickly
materials, exposure to irritating sub- as possible. This may mean hiring a
stances can be avoided or reduced. For contractor to do all or part of the work
example, rigid board insulations do not or staging an old-fashioned work bee.
shed dust or particles unless they are Where major renovations and retrofit
cut, and some caulkings have a shorter will affect the whole house, you may
curing period than others. Also, finish- wish to consider sending the family on a
ing materials such as paints and stains vacation or moving to temporary quar-
with reduced toxicity are now available ters while the work is under way.
for the chemically sensitive.
43
3 Comprehensive Air-Leakage
Keeping the Heat In
INTRODUCTION
Air-leakage control is the single most
important retrofit activity, and it should
be considered first in any retrofit strat-
egy. Blocking air leaks brings many
benefits: increased comfort, reduced
heat loss, protection of the building
structure and reduction of the amount
of noise and dust that enters from
outdoors.
Comprehensive air-leakage control is
the systematic identification and sealing
of as many air-leakage paths as possible.
The ventilation system also should be
considered. Many of the leaks are
obvious breaks in the air-barrier system,
such as through and around windows,
doors and electrical outlets. Other air
leaks are more difficult to identify, such
as bypasses around chimneys and
plumbing stacks that can channel air
directly from the basement to the attic.
44
Keeping the Heat In 3 Comprehensive Air-Leakage Control
Control
Finding Leakage Areas Caulking and Other
Part I Air-Sealing Materials
Part II
Comprehensive air-leakage control can House as a System Each house will respond to comprehen-
result from a systematic effort of weath- Remember that the house works as a sive air sealing in its own unique way.
erstripping, caulking and applying system in which each component is This has to be monitored in each case.
gaskets and tapes. Air-leakage control is related to other components. Changing Older houses may require remedial
also an essential part of every insulating one thing can affect other aspects of measures before comprehensive air seal-
job. Every time you insulate, you must the house. ing; moisture that has crept into the
also install or upgrade the air-barrier walls over time can result in mould
system. This will help you to get the This is especially true with air sealing, buildup, and the house’s wind and air
most from your insulation job and help which can affect the house moisture barriers may need repair or replacement.
ensure that moisture does not enter into flows, and combustion and ventilation The best way to avoid problems is to
the insulation or building envelope. air supply. As the envelope is tightened, understand how they occur and to take
household humidity levels rise. This can steps to control humidity and ventila-
Warning: Furnaces, fireplaces, wood- cause condensation and moisture prob- tion.
stoves and any other fuel-burning lems. Less air is available for combustion
appliances also require air for combus- appliances and less fresh air circulates Humidity, ventilation and combustion
tion and for diluting and exhausting the throughout the house. Therefore, an air are discussed in more detail in
products of combustion out of the important part of comprehensive air- Chapter 8.
house. If there is not enough air, it is leakage control is attention to whole-
possible that the chimney or flue could house ventilation and combustion-air
backdraft or spill dangerous gases supply.
into the house. Refer to the section
entitled “Combustion Air” on page 121
for further information. Also, if you sus-
pect that you have a problem, you
should speak to your heating contractor.
45
Keeping the Heat In 3 Comprehensive Air-Leakage Control
46
Keeping the Heat In 3 Comprehensive Air-Leakage Control
Checklist of Leakage Areas • cracks in the wall finish or ceiling; • attic access doors;
A few areas of the house deserve special • the joint where a wood frame wall • around chimneys;
attention, but don’t limit your detective joins a masonry wall or chimney;
work to just these places. • along any shared walls; and
• doors and hatches into
Checklist • the ceiling area over bathrooms
unheated attics;
and stairwells.
Inside the main living areas, check the
• fireplace dampers and
following: Inside the basement, check the following:
fireplace bricks;
• window-glass panes for tightness, and • where the wood-frame wall (sill
• behind bathtubs and under sinks;
around both the window sash and plate) meets the masonry (concrete
the window casing; • above sliding pocket doors; and or stone) foundation or where joists
penetrate the masonry wall;
• around the door, including the • around plumbing pipes and ductwork.
threshold and around the • any holes or gaps where the electrical
Inside the attic, check the following
door frame; lines, gas lines or oil fill pipes go
(you may have to move aside existing
through the wall (be careful!);
• electrical outlets, including ones on insulation):
interior walls; • holes for wiring and plumbing going
• around the plumbing stack and any
into external walls;
• exhaust fans and vents (these should other pipes entering the attic;
vent to the outside and close properly • leaky ducting or poorly fitted hot-air
• around wires or ceiling light fixtures
when not in use); registers or cold-air intakes;
that penetrate the attic floor;
• corners where two walls meet with an • around window and door framing;
• around ducting that enters the attic
imperfect seal;
from inside the house; • cracks in the foundation wall
• light fixtures in the ceiling; and slab; and
• at the junction of the ceiling with
• interior trim and baseboards; interior wall partitions; • floor drains.
47
Keeping the Heat In 3 Comprehensive Air-Leakage Control
48
Keeping the Heat In 3 Comprehensive Air-Leakage Control
49
Keeping the Heat In 3 Comprehensive Air-Leakage Control
• Run a bead of non-hardening Tips on Sealing Some of the If you are installing an electrical outlet
acoustical sealant between the over- Leakiest Areas during a renovation, get a good seal by
lapped sheets over the support. Electrical Outlets placing it in a special plastic box that is
available from many hardware or electri-
• Staple through the sheets and the If you notice a draft through an outside
cal supply stores. Caulk the penetration
bead of sealant. All other staples wall electrical outlet, it must be sealed.
for the wire, and seal the new air and
should be avoided or minimized. (Some inside wall outlets can also pro-
vapour barrier to the edge of the box.
vide leakage paths, so do check them.)
• The finish (e.g., drywall) acts as an
Turn off the power to the outlet by Trim Areas (Baseboards, Mouldings
anchor, securing the seam. If the
turning off the circuit breaker or remov- and Window and Door Casings)
polyethylene is recessed in the wall, a
ing the fuse. Check to make sure the Seal areas of air leakage around all trim.
batten can be nailed over the seam to
power is disconnected by turning on a In some cases, this can be done easily by
provide mechanical support.
lamp. There are special foam pads, sealing all the joints with a flexible caulk
• Seal all penetrations. Where possible, approved by CSA International, that fit that is clear, paintable or of a matching
they should penetrate at a solid back- between the cover plate and receptacles. colour. A more effective solution for
ing such as plywood and be caulked. You will obtain a better seal if you caulk leaky or poorly fitted trim is to carefully
the gasket before installation. Place remove the trim and seal behind it.
child safety plugs in seldom-used out- Insulate wide cracks with a foam backer
lets. Some foam pads come with a gas- rod and seal them with caulking,
ket that fits on the safety plug. polyurethane foam or other suitable
material.
50
Keeping the Heat In 3 Comprehensive Air-Leakage Control
Duct for outside combustion air for fireplace High-temperature caulking should be used to air
(fireplace plug also shown) seal the metal enclosure around the chimney
If baseboards are removed, you might Fireplaces You can also seal off an unused fire-
also be able to caulk between the wall A crackling fire makes a room cosy, but place. Close it up by putting an airtight
finish and the bottom wall plates and what happens when the fireplace is not plug of some sort in the chimney or
between the plates and the floor. in use? If the damper is left open, warm across the fireplace opening. This can be
air from the room shoots up the chim- made from board material that is cloth-
Glass Panes
ney. When the fireplace is not in use, covered and provides a good seal at the
The seal between glass and its wood edges (see diagram above left).
close the damper. Take a flashlight and
frame should be tight. Check the glaz-
make sure the damper fits tightly. If it Check for any air leaks where the chim-
ing carefully and be certain that all the
doesn’t, fix it yourself or have it repaired. ney meets the wall (remove the trim if
seals are intact, with no cracks or miss-
ing sections. If not, repair them with Even with the damper closed, a great necessary). Caulk this joint with a
putty or glazing compound. Putty usu- deal of heat still escapes up the chimney. flexible caulk.
ally costs less, but tends to dry out and Commercially available glass doors for Chimney
crack faster, unless you put linseed oil fireplaces are usually not very tight
There may be a large gap where a
on the wood first. A glazing compound, or effective. Ideally, you should also
masonry chimney rises through the
on the other hand, lasts longer and stays install an outside combustion air duct
attic. This space can be partially sealed
semi-soft and usable longer. Remove the to the fireplace to improve operation,
by stuffing it tightly with pieces of min-
old putty and apply the new materials efficiency and safety. Ask at your local
eral wool batt. Do not use any material
with a putty knife. Be sure to press it building-supply outlet or wood-burning
that is, or may become, flammable.
firmly into the space for a good seal. appliance dealer if a kit is available.
For greater effectiveness, cut pieces of
sheet metal to fit around the chimney.
Seal all the joints with a flexible, heat-
resistant sealant (see diagram above
right).
51
Keeping the Heat In 3 Comprehensive Air-Leakage Control
52
Keeping the Heat In 3 Comprehensive Air-Leakage Control
53
4 Roofs and Attics
Keeping the Heat In
54
Keeping the Heat In 4 Roofs and Attics
removed. If it is wet, don’t cover it until areas will cause a cold spot where the However, very few houses have an effec-
the source of moisture is removed and wall and ceiling meet, which can lead tive air barrier, although some houses
the insulation is dry. to moisture problems. If you are blow- built in the last decade may be tighter.
ing in loose fill, install depth indicators If there is an air barrier, your job will be
If the insulation is dry, it will probably
(e.g., a piece of wood nailed perpendic- made much simpler. Locate the barrier
be all right to leave it in place.
ular to a joist) throughout the area to be and determine its condition. Remember,
Generally, there is little problem in
insulated to ensure a consistent depth of an air barrier must be continuous; holes
using two different types of insulation.
application. or tears will have to be repaired, and
Check the depth of the insulation to penetrations through the barrier will
determine its insulating value. Compare have to be sealed.
Existing Air and Vapour Barriers
this with the recommended insulation
Most houses have a vapour barrier on Increased insulation means a colder
values on page 13.
the warm side of the insulation. In attic, which in turn means that any
Check to make sure that the insulation newer houses, a polyethylene sheet usu- vapour that does escape into the attic
is distributed evenly and that there is ally serves as the barrier. In older homes, can condense before it can be vented. It
full depth coverage. This is particularly the vapour barrier might have been pro- is essential to air seal the attic to prevent
important around the perimeter of the vided by wax paper, kraft paper-backed moisture from getting in.
attic above the wall plates. Uninsulated batts or layers of paint.
56
Keeping the Heat In 4 Roofs and Attics
If there is no air barrier, concentrate Be sure to seal the following: damage the plastic or rubber coating
your efforts on comprehensive air on electrical wiring. Electrical stores
• Around the plumbing stack and
sealing. You can create an effective air carry a putty-like sealant specifically
any other pipes entering the attic.
barrier by using caulking, gaskets for use on electrical wiring.
Since the plumbing stack moves up
and weatherstripping to seal the joints
and down due to thermal expansion, • Around ducting that enters the attic
between building components.
the seal must be airtight yet allow from inside the house; for example,
Air Sealing for movement. This can be accom- kitchen exhaust fans, bathroom
One sure sign of leakage of warm air plished by using a rubber gasket, a vents, etc. Seal joints in the ductwork
from the house is stained insulation or plywood collar in conjunction with with duct tape. Seal the gaps where
frost in the winter. The staining is the an expansion joint, or a sleeve made ducts penetrate the ceiling alumi-
result of dirt that has been trapped by of polyethylene. num. It is especially important that
the insulation as air escapes from the no exhaust fans discharge into the
• Around wires or ceiling light fix-
house. Sealing tips for common sources attic. They should discharge to the
tures that penetrate the attic floor.
of air leakage are described below. It outside, but not directly below the
Seal holes where wires penetrate
may help to make a map of where the eave vents. The ducts should
partition-wall top plates with a
light fixtures and walls are before you stay below the insulation or should
compatible sealant. Some sealants
go up. be wrapped with insulation.
57
Keeping the Heat In 4 Roofs and Attics
• At the junction of the ceiling and • Along the edge of shared walls. of vent area to ceiling area should be
interior wall partitions. Pull back There is often a gap between the approximately 1 to 300. Do not auto-
the insulation to locate any cracks party wall (i.e., the shared wall matically increase ventilation. Creating
that have formed along interior walls. between units in duplexes, triplexes a tight ceiling is a far more effective way
Seal the cracks with a caulking com- and row houses) and the edge of the of eliminating moisture problems.
pound. This area will not usually attic floor. Ensure that this gap is
Electric exhaust fans are not recom-
pose a problem if the interior ceiling well plugged.
mended for attic ventilation. An electric
has been plastered.
exhaust can draw more air than can be
• At the top of interior and exterior Ventilation supplied through the soffit vents. This
walls. Check to see if all wall cavities Attic ventilation serves a number of pur- will actually pull house air into the attic,
are blocked from the attic (usually by poses: it reduces summer heat buildup; resulting in greater heat loss and mois-
a top plate). If the spaces have been after air sealing, it is your second line of ture accumulation.
left or cut open, install a piece of defence against water vapour that may The location of vents is as important as
rigid board insulation in the exposed have found its way into the attic; and it their number and type. The following
cavity. Remember to caulk the edges ensures a colder, well-vented attic space sections detail the best approach,
of the rigid board. If the top plate is that will be less prone to the formation depending on your attic type.
cracked or poorly fitted, use caulking of ice dams at the eaves.
and polyethylene to create a tight seal. Remember, vents are important but
Make sure that existing attic vents are they will not prevent condensation on
• Around attic hatches. Attic hatches working properly and that they are not their own. Ventilation alone will not
are an obvious but frequently over- blocked by insulation, dirt or other solve the problems created by air
looked source of air leakage and heat materials. You may have to locate roof or leakage. Air sealing is your first line
loss. See page 52 for details. soffit vents from outside if they are not of defence.
• Around the chimney. The National clearly visible from inside the attic.
Building Code of Canada requires that Although an airtight ceiling will signifi-
air spaces between chimneys and floor cantly reduce the likelihood of moisture
or ceiling assemblies through which in the attic, building codes still require
they pass be sealed with a non-com- minimum attic ventilation. The ratio
bustible firestop. See page 52
for details.
58
Keeping the Heat In 4 Roofs and Attics
PART II
EASILY ACCESSIBLE
ATTICS
After you have inspected
the attic and carried
out any remedial
work, focus on air
and moisture control,
insulation and ventilation.
Polyethylene strips are laid between the joists as an air and Baffles can be used to maintain airflow through the
vapour barrier. soffit vents.
To avoid trapping moisture between the the polyethylene to the horizontal rigid caulking on the side of the joists all
plastic and the wood – leading to possi- board. Carefully caulk any joints or along their length and install the
ble wood rot or other moisture-related seams between materials. Expanding polyethylene, holding it in place with a
problems – install at least twice the two-part spray foam kits are also useful series of staples (see illustration above left).
insulating value over top of the air- for sealing areas around joists and
Remember, any obstructions in the
vapour barrier (the one-third–two-thirds boards.
attic, such as electrical wires or pipes,
rule). This means, for example, if the
will require cuts in the barrier. These
joist height is 89 mm (3 1⁄2 in.) and
Installing Sheet Material Between will need to be carefully sealed to
contains RSI 2.1 (R-12), at least RSI 4.2
the Joists make the barrier continuous.
(R-24) must be installed over top of
the barrier. Where obstructions such as a truss roof
make the previous method too difficult, Installing Insulation
The main difficulty with this technique install a polyethylene air barrier between
involves sealing the barrier to the wall The most common materials for use in
the joists. This is a lengthy, painstaking
top plate, especially at the eaves where an accessible attic are batt/blanket types
process, so make sure you have plenty
there is little room to manoeuvre. or loose-fill insulation. In some circum-
of patience.
stances, it may be a good idea to use a
It is essential to seal this area as well. If there is no insulation in the attic, your combination of types. If there are a lot
Rigid board insulation can help to job is simplified. If there is insulation in of obstructions above the joists, such as
bridge the gap in this area. Cut rigid the attic, it will have to be removed with a truss roof, it may be easiest to
board to fit between the ceiling joists from the area you are working on and put batt insulation into the joist spaces
and to extend from the exterior wall top set to one side. Cut strips of the poly- and then use loose fill to create a com-
plate toward the attic. A second piece of ethylene about 200 mm (8 in.) wider plete blanket of insulation above the
rigid insulation, installed vertically, joins than the joist spacing. Lay a bead of joists and around all obstructions.
60
Keeping the Heat In 4 Roofs and Attics
On the other hand, if some spaces are space of 38 to 50 mm (1 1⁄2 to 2 in.) the joists (see illustration above
irregular or obstructed, it may be easiest between the top of the insulation and right). Ensure that there are no gaps
to use loose fill. You will have to choose the underside of the roof sheathing. between the two layers of insulation.
the insulation types most appropriate To prevent this space from being
• Fill any awkward spaces or gaps
to your situation; refer to the summary blocked, use baffles between each
with pieces of batt or with loose-fill
of insulation types on pages 26 to 31. rafter space (see illustration at right
insulation.
on page 60).
Batt or Blanket Insulation
• Blanket insulation basically is applied
Batt insulation is simply pressed into • Insulate snugly around cross-bracing
in the same way as batts. It may be
place between the ceiling joists. If you as illustrated above left (avoid cutting
pre-cut with a knife or cut on the
purchased the correct width, it will fit the air barrier). Alternatively, you
spot. Start at one end of the attic and
snugly. However, if your joist space is can cut one batt into a series of
simply unroll the blanket.
not the standard 16 or 24 inches, extra wedges and then fit a wedge under
labour will be required to cut and fit each brace. Loose-Fill Insulation
batts properly. Loose-fill insulation is an • The first layer of batts should be • Loose-fill insulation can be poured
option worth considering in this situa- thick enough to completely fill to the by hand or blown in either by the
tion. The following are some other instal- top of the joist space. The second homeowner with rented equipment
lation tips: layer can then run in the opposite or by a qualified contractor.
• Butt the ends of batts together as direction, across the joists, blocking
snugly as possible. any heat flow through and around
61
Keeping the Heat In 4 Roofs and Attics
• Loose-fill insulation can be poured cardboard or foam plastic baffles that and the contractor should then agree
on top of the air and vapour barrier. can be stapled between the rafters. In on the total number of bags to be
Level it with a board or garden rake, any case, be sure that the insulation used, the expected insulating value
as illustrated above left. It’s best to extends out far enough to cover the and the minimum settled depth of
add insulation to a depth greater top of the exterior wall. insulation throughout the attic.
than the height of the joists. This
• If your loose fill is deeper than the
extra thickness makes levelling a bit
joists, build a crib around the attic Additional Tips
difficult but is worth it. Nail vertical
hatch so that it can be filled to • You can insulate and/or seal around a
strips of wood to the side of some of
the edge. masonry chimney, but before you
the joists to help you gauge the depth
of the insulation. Maintain an even • The bags of insulation material will start, you must check the state of the
depth throughout the attic. list how many square metres (or chimney and any surrounding fram-
square feet) each bag should fill in ing. If you see signs of charring,
• Pour the insulation to fill all nooks smoke/soot deposits, crumbling
order to give the required RSI value.
and crannies. masonry or mortar, or if you see evi-
Knowing the size of the attic will
• At the eaves, take care to keep the help you determine the number of dence that the chimney lining is
insulation from blocking the ventila- bags you will need. deteriorating, do not insulate it. Call
tion or from disappearing into the a chimney specialist to repair and
• If you are having a contractor do the insulate it at the same time. If your
eaves space. A piece of rigid board
work, calculate the RSI value that chimney is in good condition, you
insulation, or a wood baffle, should
you want and check the bags of insu- can fill the space between a masonry
be installed before the work begins.
lation to be used. They should indi- chimney and the wood frame around
Some building-supply stores now sell
cate the area that one bag will cover it with non-combustible insulation
at the selected insulating value. You that is certified to the appropriate
62
Keeping the Heat In 4 Roofs and Attics
63
Keeping the Heat In 4 Roofs and Attics
Knee wall
64
Keeping the Heat In 4 Roofs and Attics
These channels must be on the cold • The knee wall can be treated like an Other Complications
side of the space, which then can be unfinished attic floor (see page 59), Wall of Heated Room
filled with insulation. making allowances for the fact that it
Some houses have a wall in the attic that
is vertical. Install a combination air
adjoins a heated space. Insulate it as you
and vapour barrier made from poly-
Insulation would a knee wall.
ethylene strips sealed between each
Theoretically, a rigid foam insulation stud. The air barrier also can be Shared Wall
could be used; however, batts are less created by sealing all cracks and Semi-detached or row houses that share
expensive and easier to handle in con- penetrations and painting a vapour a concrete-block wall will lose heat into
fined spaces. If there are any electrical barrier on the interior surface. Next, the attic because concrete is a good
outlets (careful!) or pipes in the knee install the insulation and secure it in conductor of heat, and air circulates
wall, make sure that you keep them on place. This can be done with friction- inside (and through) this wall. Ideally,
the warm side of the air and vapour bar- fit batts or by securing the insulation the shared wall should be plugged at
rier and insulation, and seal the air and with building paper, cardboard, the ceiling level by having a contractor
vapour barrier around them. olefin sheets or string or wire. One drill holes and inject small amounts of
• Treat the attic floor behind the knee inch of rigid board insulation nailed polyurethane foam into the blocks. In
wall and the attic space over the half to the exterior side of the studs can many cases, this will not be possible or
storey’s ceiling (see diagrams above) also be used to hold the batt insula- economical. If there is a wood-frame
exactly as described previously for tion in place (see diagram on page party (shared) wall at the top of the
standard, unfinished attics. 66). This will increase the thermal block wall, air seal the junction at the
resistance of the wall section and top of the block wall.
• The end walls are the full-height reduce thermal bridging.
walls that are exposed to the exterior.
Treat these with blown insulation, • The section in the rafters may be
exactly as described in Chapter 6. filled with insulation if all penetra-
tions through the ceiling are sealed
and if this is permitted by local
building codes or standards.
65
Keeping the Heat In 4 Roofs and Attics
66
Keeping the Heat In 4 Roofs and Attics
If you choose to have insulation blown Ensure that the contractor prevents
PART IV in, calculate the RSI value that you insulation from entering the eaves and
SPECIAL CASES expect to achieve and check the bags of blocking the ventilation. If there are
If the attic is both insulation to be used. They should any recessed light fixtures or other
cramped and without a indicate what area one bag will cover at sources of heat in the attic, make sure
hatch, all is not lost. the selected RSI value. You and the con- precautions are taken to avoid creating a
You may be able to cut tractor should then agree on the total fire hazard.
a hole in the ceiling in an number of bags, the expected RSI value
Finally, if there are any walls in the attic
out-of-the-way place, such as a closet, or and the minimum depth of insulation
space it is unlikely that they can be
you may be able to gain access through to be achieved throughout the attic.
insulated by blown-in fill. Consult your
either existing or new outside vents. There will likely be no way of installing contractor for details.
If you discover that the attic is cramped a new sheet-material air barrier. If one
Ventilating cramped attics can be diffi-
but large enough to work in, follow the does not already exist, it should still be
cult because of the limited space and
instructions on pages 59 to 63. If, on acceptable to install insulation if the
the difficulty of creating an adequate
the other hand, there really is no free following conditions are met (even if a
airflow. Where the roof extends over the
space at all above the ceiling joists, barrier is present, these points are
exterior walls, it may be possible to use
read on. worthwhile to consider):
soffit vents in combination with roof
• There is no evidence of moisture vents or build-up ridge vents.
How to Insulate an Attic That Is problems.
Many houses with cramped attic spaces
Too Cramped to Work In • Humidity levels in the house are rea- lack eaves. In such cases, approach venti-
Basically you have two choices. It may sonable (see Chapter 1). lation with caution. The best approach
be possible to insulate outside the is to carefully seal the ceiling below
• Any air leaks through the ceiling into
building on top of the existing roof the attic from inside the house, and
the attic are sealed.
(see pages 72 to 73), or it may be then insulate without installing addi-
possible to have a contractor blow in You can achieve added protection by tional vents.
loose-fill insulation. Choose the painting the ceiling below the attic with
contractor with care – make sure that a coat of latex vapour-barrier paint or
the firm has experience in this type two coats of oil-based paint.
of situation.
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Keeping the Heat In 4 Roofs and Attics
If possible, check the roof space for Cathedral Ceilings and Flat Roofs However, if you decide it is worth your
moisture problems during or just after a A house (or any portion of a house) with while to increase insulation levels, there
cold snap in January or February. Some a flat roof, cathedral ceiling or some other are a number of options. Each option
frost is to be expected, but if the “attic-less” construction is likely to be a involves some risk of either moisture
buildup is especially heavy, you will have difficult case and will require the services problems or thermal bridges that can
to consider ventilating the space and of a qualified contractor. reduce the effectiveness of the insula-
work even harder at locating and sealing tion. A technique involving blown
all air leaks and reducing humidity levels The main problem with these roofs is insulation is discussed below. Pages 70
in the house. the limited space for insulation and ven- to 73 discuss both interior and exterior
tilation. If fact, if there is already some retrofits, including the addition of a
In any event, it is advisable to check insulation in the joist space, adding new roof.
with local building authorities to deter- more may not be economical.
mine which procedures are permitted in
your area.
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Keeping the Heat In 4 Roofs and Attics
The existing space between the ceiling If you choose to fill the interior of a
and roof can be blown full of loose-fill flat roof or cathedral ceiling, the most
insulation by a contractor. Since this appropriate material is probably cellu-
eliminates ventilation, it is generally not lose fibre blown in to a high density
recommended. Take extra care to make (56 to 72 kg/m3 or 3 1⁄2 to 4 1⁄2 lb./cu. ft.).
sure that air leaks into the ceiling are The contractor should calculate and
sealed from below. This is difficult confirm the density for each roof cavity.
because wiring and plumbing usually The high density of the insulation –
puncture the ceiling in a number of combined with comprehensive air seal-
places. Moreover, the partition walls ing – should reduce airflow sufficiently
may not be completely blocked off at to avoid condensation problems.
the top, allowing large amounts of air to
flow through the interior walls into the
ceiling. Where the interior walls are
completely open to the ceiling, there is
no easy solution unless you are prepared
to have your interior walls blown full of
insulation and sealed along all trim, out-
lets and other penetrations.
69
Keeping the Heat In 4 Roofs and Attics
70
Keeping the Heat In 4 Roofs and Attics
• Insulation between the collar beams • Construct a new ceiling immediately • Existing rafters can be extended to
is applied from below in much the below the existing ceiling. If the roof accommodate additional insulation.
same way, with a continuous poly- has exposed joists or beams (usually This can be done by cross-strapping
ethylene air and vapour barrier for decorative purposes), it may be the existing rafters or by extending
applied last. If the collar beams have possible to close the space in, creat- the rafter cavity with 38 mm x 89 mm
already been insulated and if there is ing a new ceiling. Batts or rigid (2 x 4) lumber and plywood gussets
access to the upper portion, then insulation can be installed in the (see diagrams above).
more insulation may be added as in a space followed by a continuous air
Although it is not necessary to remove
normal attic. and vapour barrier and a new ceiling.
the interior finish and expose the rafters
In all cases, moisture can cause diffi-
• Finally, block off and seal any vents when cross-strapping – as it is when
culties. Review the section on mois-
into those parts of your attic that are extending the rafters – it is a good idea,
ture control in Chapter 1 before
now heated. since you can check the state of the
considering this option.
insulation and see if there is a vapour
• If you choose to build a new ceiling barrier.
Dropped Ceiling
from below, remember that you must
Where headroom is sufficient, con- • You can add rigid insulation directly
prevent warm air from getting into
structing a dropped ceiling to hold insu- to the surface of an existing ceiling.
the new cavity space and bypassing
lation is an excellent way of thermally The advantage of this technique is
the insulation. This will involve seal-
upgrading a cathedral ceiling or flat that you will avoid the mess and time
ing the perimeter of the new ceiling
roof, especially when planned as part required to tear down the ceiling.
and any possible air leakage paths
of a renovation. The following are sev- However, it will make access to the
through partition walls.
eral options. space between the ceiling and the
attic floor more difficult (e.g., to
install recessed light fixtures).
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Keeping the Heat In 4 Roofs and Attics
Adding a New Roof A new insulated roof can be built up over the old roof.
Insulation can also be added on top of
an existing roof. This option is suitable
for cathedral ceilings but can be justified • A relatively straightforward method This step is not necessary if there is
only when major exterior alterations, involves installing rigid board insula- already an air barrier.
such as a new roof, are required. For the tion over the existing roof (see
It is important to insulate (“block”) and
average house, the cost of re-shingling, diagram above). The higher RSI
air seal the spaces between the joists
installing new sheathing and replacing value of rigid insulation means a
along the perimeter of the roof. This is
eavestroughing, soffits and fascia, as well smaller increase in the roof thickness,
to prevent heated air from escaping
as disposal and haulage costs and the although several layers of insulation
around the insulation. Line up the edges
cost of installed insulation, will cost may be needed to meet the desired
of the blocking with the inside finish of
several thousand dollars. You will almost RSI level.
the exterior wall and thoroughly caulk
certainly need the services of a qualified Sheet polyethylene is first placed over all seams.
contractor. the existing roof to provide the air and
• A new roof can be framed over the
vapour barrier (providing the one-third–
existing roof and filled with batt
two-thirds rule is followed, but see com-
insulation. The addition of a new
ments in the last paragraph of item 3,
roof frame may add to the structural
on page 20). Alternatively, low-perme-
loading of the entire assembly. Check
ability rigid board can be installed with
with a building inspector before
the joints taped to prevent air leakage.
beginning the work.
72
Keeping the Heat In 4 Roofs and Attics
73
5 Basement Insulation
Keeping the Heat In
INTRODUCTION
How Important Is Basement
Heat Loss?
Most homeowners don’t think of their
basement as a prime source of heat loss,
yet basements can account for 20 to
35 percent of a home’s total heat loss.
Basements lose so much heat because
of the large, uninsulated surface area
both above and below grade level.
Contrary to popular opinion, earth is a
poor insulator. There is also a lot of air
leakage through basement windows and
penetrations, through cracks, and at the
top of the foundation wall (sill area).
Few basements have any insulation at
all, and for most homeowners this
means there is much potential for
improvement. Insulation can often
be tied in with other repair or renova-
tion work, such as damp-proofing or
finishing the basement.
74
Keeping the Heat In 5 Basement Insulation
How to Insulate How to Insulate Inside Crawl Spaces Open Foundations Concrete Slab
Outside the Basement the Basement Part III Part IV on the Ground
Part I Part II Part V
75
Keeping the Heat In 5 Basement Insulation
Condensation can also form on the Insulate Inside or Outside? Normally, a moisture barrier is applied
foundation walls in the summer because In most cases, insulating on the outside to the inside face of basement walls up
the air is very humid and the basement is best from a technical point of view. to grade level, and an air and vapour
is cool. Despite this, it is often necessary to barrier is installed on the warm side of
insulate from the inside for economical the insulation.
Cracks
and practical reasons. Sometimes a Advantages of Inside Insulation
If the basement has an “active” crack
combination of approaches is required. • It can be incorporated into a plan to
(i.e., one that gets bigger or smaller),
Examine the advantages of each finish your basement.
you should seek professional help to
approach carefully.
determine if the situation requires • The work can be done at any time
structural repairs. Insulating Inside of the year and can be done one
This may involve installing a wood- section at a time.
frame wall and adding batt insulation
• It is often easier and cheaper to insu-
(see illustration on page 77). Another
late the full wall and achieve high
option is to use rigid board insulation
insulating values.
with prefabricated metal channels or
wood framing to hold the insulation, • Your landscaping and driveway will
followed by a layer of fire-resistant not be disturbed.
material (e.g., gypsum board) that is
mechanically fastened to the wall.
76
Keeping the Heat In 5 Basement Insulation
Disadvantages of Inside Insulation Insulating Outside • The mass of the foundation is within
• Insulating from the inside should not This involves excavating around the the insulated portion of the house
be attempted in basements with a foundation, damp-proofing and and will tend to even out tempera-
moisture problem. If your basement installing rigid insulation, as illustrated ture fluctuations.
has a history of damp or dripping on page 78. Flashing must be attached Disadvantages of Outside Insulation
walls, you should insulate on the to keep water from getting behind the • Difficulty might be encountered
outside. If you must insulate on insulation, and a protective covering when digging a trench around the
the inside, corrective measures are must be installed on the exposed house. Excavating by hand can be a
necessary to eliminate the moisture sections of insulation. tedious, back-straining job. It is
problem before adding insulation. much easier if you have machinery to
do the work.
77
Keeping the Heat In 5 Basement Insulation
78
Keeping the Heat In 5 Basement Insulation
79
Keeping the Heat In 5 Basement Insulation
80
Keeping the Heat In 5 Basement Insulation
Types of flashing
4. Flashing protective coat. Wood flashing should • Expanded metal lath with cement
Flashing helps keep the insulation in be sloped with an overhang of at least parging. Follow the manufacturer’s
place, prevents water from getting 20 mm (3⁄4 in.) and have a drip edge on instructions.
behind the insulation and provides a the underside.
• Polymer-modified pargings. These go
clean, neat junction. There are two Ideally, the insulation is carried up past directly on some types of insulation
major considerations: the location of the the header area by at least 15 cm (6 in.). without requiring metal lath. Check
flashing, which defines how far up the This often cannot be done because of the manufacturer’s literature.
wall the insulation extends, and the type practical or aesthetic reasons. If the insu-
of flashing used. • Pressure-treated plywood. This can
lation is carried up only to the header
be installed using stainless-steel
If the siding can be partially removed or area or lower, then the header area
fasteners.
pried up, then standard “Z” flashing should be air sealed and insulated from
should be used. This is inserted at least the interior. This is discussed later in • Fibreglass panels or vinyl or alu-
5 cm (2 in.) behind the siding and this section. minum siding that can match the
building paper. house siding.
5. Exterior Protection
If flashing cannot be inserted behind A covering is needed to protect the insu- 6. Backfilling
the siding (such as with brick), then lation from sunlight and damage by The drain tiles (perforated plastic pipe)
either a metal “J” channel must be people and animals. It is applied from should first be covered with 15 cm
made up and installed prior to the insu- the top of the insulation to a point (6 in.) of clean gravel – 4 mm (1⁄8 in.) or
lation or a wood flashing installed after about 30 cm (12 in.) below ground larger – and preferably a strip of filter
the insulation. Flashing should accom- level. Some possibilities include the fabric. If a draining insulation is used,
modate the width of the insulation and following: the gravel should extend at least 10 cm
(4 in.) up the side insulation.
81
Keeping the Heat In 5 Basement Insulation
Backfill in stages, removing large objects The filled hole may be covered with any
and compacting or tamping the ground. type of surface – patio stones, grass or a
If the soil is a poorly draining type such garden. Some additional settling may
as expansive clay, it would be better to take place; it is better to wait before
The sill should slope away from
bring in free-draining soil. undertaking any expensive treatments the window.
such as paving.
When the hole is finally filled, make
sure the ground slopes away from the 7. Finishing Details
Doors should be outlined with a “J”
house; usually a slope of 10 percent – In the case of wood flashing or the “J” channel or equivalent flashing. The door
20 cm (8 in.) for the first 2 m (6 ft.) – is channel, seal the joint between the sill may have to be extended to protect
provided to allow for settling. This will flashing and the house with a suitable the flashing beneath the door.
encourage drainage away from the insu- caulking. In the case of brick siding, the
lation, as will the addition of eaves- weep holes (holes that allow water to Seal penetrations through the insulation
troughing and downspouts. It is very escape) must remain clear. and covering to prevent wind and water
important not to direct excess surface entry. Some penetrations (gas regulators,
water toward the foundation. Windows in the foundation can usually electrical conduits) may be better left
be finished by wrapping the insulation uninsulated.
around the foundation to meet the win-
dow frame. Lath and parging can be
applied over the insulation to the win-
dow frame. The joint between the frame
and parging should be caulked and will
have to be inspected periodically.
82
Keeping the Heat In 5 Basement Insulation
Insulating a cold room on the interior Overlap interior and exterior insulation
83
Keeping the Heat In 5 Basement Insulation
84
Keeping the Heat In 5 Basement Insulation
wall is even and vertical, as the board gypsum board is mechanically fastened
material is fairly rigid. It is usually to the wall or nailing strips.
restricted to concrete-block or poured
The best system for you will depend, in
concrete walls. Rigid insulation panels
part, on the type of finish you will
are secured to the concrete using
install and the loading requirements on
mechanically attached nailing strips,
the finished wall. For example, vertical
and the assembly is protected with
panelling will have different require-
12.7 mm (1⁄2 in.) gypsum drywall
ments from horizontally installed dry-
secured to the nailing strips.
wall. Ask at your building-supply outlet
for the different options available.
Rigid board insulation involves:
Preparation
1) air sealing the old walls After you have checked the wall and You should install at least RSI 2.1
2) installing the insulation made any necessary repairs, air seal all (R-12). Consider installing it in
3) finishing leakage paths, such as at the sill plate overlapping layers to minimize heat
and around penetrations. This step is loss through the wooden nailing strips.
important as it provides the primary Be sure to install the insulation snugly
• Provide adequate temporary lighting.
air-barrier system. to eliminate air circulation at the edges.
• Keep yourself and the insulation
Installation Finishing
materials away from the flue pipe
of the furnace and any other sources Mechanical fasteners are essential to The joist area must also be insulated
of heat. secure the gypsum board to the wall. and sealed (unless the joists are embed-
This often means that wooden nailing ded in concrete). See the next section
• Watch out for older wiring, such strips are used, with the insulation for details.
as the knob-and-tube type, that placed between or behind the strips.
may be in poor condition. This is a The entire wall must be protected
Alternatively, the insulation can be held with 12.7 mm (1⁄2 in.) gypsum board or
common hazard when working in in place with a special wood or metal
older basements. equivalent fire protection. This includes
nailing strip that fits within grooves or the joist space if a new ceiling is not
notches cut in the insulation panels. In installed.
How to Insulate Inside the either case, the drywall is screwed or
Basement Using Rigid Board nailed in place into the nailing strip.
Insulation Corrosion-resistant concrete fasteners
secure the nailing strip into the concrete
This method works best if the basement
wall. The insulation can be glued on the
wall as a temporary measure until the
85
Keeping the Heat In 5 Basement Insulation
preferable to excavate, damp-proof, and through the studs and better moisture
insulate from the outside. protection.
How to Frame and Insulate Inside Cover the basement walls with a poly- Because the wall frame is built out from
the Basement – Step by Step ethylene moisture barrier that extends the wall, the studs will not touch the
This system consists of a new wood- from grade level only to the bottom of cold exterior walls and there will be
frame wall with batt or blanket insula- the wall allowing extra at the bottom – space for an extra layer of horizontal
tion, an air and vapour barrier, and about 30 cm (1 ft.) – to lie under the insulation.
finishing. It can provide high levels of new frame wall. This will protect the
The bottom plate should sit directly
insulation at a relatively low cost. insulation, studding and wall finish
on the extension of the polyethylene
from possible water damage.
Preparation moisture barrier. If you never have mois-
Framing a New Wall ture leakage on the wall to be insulated,
Before you begin, be sure to caulk any
The next step is to install a wood-frame then you can also set the bottom plate
cracks between the foundation and
wall in the basement. There are two on a bead of caulking compound or
the sill, as well as any other air-leakage
approaches. You can install the new wall gasketing material to create a tight seal.
paths. See Chapters 2 and 3 for a
description of the best materials and flush to the old wall using 38 mm x Next, fasten the top plate to the bottom
techniques. 89 mm (2 x 4) lumber. Alternatively, of the joists. Where the wall runs paral-
you can use 38 mm x 64 mm or lel to the joists you will have to build in
Inspect the walls for possible moisture 38 mm x 89 mm (2 x 3 or 2 x 4) a nailing support for the top plate (the
problems. Occasional dampness on the lumber built out from the wall by approach you use will depend upon your
basement walls (especially in late spring 64 mm (2 1⁄2 in.). The second method particular house). Now is the time to
or early summer) is all right as long as takes up more room, but does provide line up the new wall properly using a
the correct procedures are followed more insulation, less thermal bridging plumb bob or level and straight edge.
when installing insulation.
Then install the studs 600 mm (24 in.)
When water leaks are major or frequent,
on centre (i.e., from the centre of one
the source of the problem must be cor-
stud to the centre of the next) for
rected and the wall repaired. It may be
38 mm x 89 mm (2 x 4), or 400 mm
(16 in.) on centre for 38 mm x 64 mm
86
Keeping the Heat In 5 Basement Insulation
Two layers of insulation can be used: Rigid extruded polystyrene insulation caulked between
1) horizontal between the foundation wall and the studs the joists continues the air and vapour barrier up to the
2) vertical between the studs sub-floor.
87
Keeping the Heat In 5 Basement Insulation
this space can be fitted with long strips Insulation around a cold cellar
of rigid insulation. The polyethylene
air and vapour barrier installed on the
Basement Wall Is Irregular
wall is then lapped up and sealed to the
rigid insulation. • An irregular basement is usually
made of stone or rubble and is rarely
Finally, nail up the finishing surface. Sealed plumbing penetrations damp-proofed on the outside. An
Make sure it is tight against the insula- interior retrofit is not recommended,
tion. The polyethylene barrier and rigid but where no water or moisture
insulation will represent a fire hazard and vapour barrier and the gaps problems exist, it may be possible to
until covered. This also applies to the around the pipes caulked. insulate on the inside. Batt insulation
joist spaces. will conform to the irregularities.
• Do not insulate around any flue
If the joists are embedded in concrete, it When insulating on the inside of
pipes. Different clearances are
is better not to insulate the joist area. stone and brick foundations, do not
required depending on the type of
This will help to keep the joist ends insulate the joist space. This will
flue. Check with the manufacturer or
warm and dry. However, you should still allow moisture in the foundation wall
a heating-system specialist. Similarly,
air seal around each joist. an escape route. The joist area should
furnaces, wood stoves and fireplaces
still be air sealed. Spray polyurethane
require clearances from the wall. Do
foam has been used successfully to
Complications not insulate if you cannot maintain
reduce moisture (see pages 30 to 31).
the proper clearance.
Wall Space Interrupted by Pipes, This product must be installed by a
Ducts or an Electrical Panel • Be careful working around the main certified installer and be covered by
• Move water supply pipes away from electrical panel. Even when the power an appropriate fire-resistant material.
the wall if at all possible. If they can- to the rest of the house is off, the
Part of the Basement Is a Cold Cellar
not be moved, install the insulation panel will still be “live.” It’s better to
or an Unheated Garage
and the air and vapour barrier have an electrician move the panel
out to accommodate the new wall. • Apply the insulation to the cold cellar
behind the pipes so that they are on
or garage wall separating the heated
the warm side. Never place insulation Basement Wall Interrupted by basement from the unheated space, as
in front of the pipes. Any pipes that a Window if it were an external basement wall.
pass through the air and vapour bar-
• Seal the point where the window
rier should pass through a plywood
frame adjoins the wall with caulking
board that is sealed to the main air
compound, and then insulate.
88
Keeping the Heat In 5 Basement Insulation
The doorway from the basement problems). The insulation on the con-
should be weatherstripped and insu- crete is extended up about 20 cm (8 in.)
lated. Finally, insulate the ceiling as to overlap with the frame section. A
described for unheated crawl spaces ledge is created at this point (see illus-
(see pages 90 and 91). tration above left).
If you insulate your cold cellar, there Overhangs
will be an added benefit – it will be An overhang over the foundation should
colder! Keep a check on the winter tem- be air sealed and insulated. It is usually
perature so that adjustments can be possible to remove the finish under-
made to prevent freezing. neath the overhang and air seal the
space between the joists above the foun-
The Basement Has a Pony Wall
dation with polyurethane foam or
A pony wall consists of short sections caulked, low-permeability rigid insula-
of wood frame wall sitting on top of a tion. Insulate the joist space with batt or
conventional concrete foundation. In blanket insulation before re-installing
this case, the wood-frame section is the finish. Heavyweight building paper,
insulated between the studs, and the housewrap wind or another barrier can
concrete section is insulated on the be installed before the finish.
interior (assuming there are no moisture
89
Keeping the Heat In 5 Basement Insulation
Moisture Barriers
If there is no moisture barrier on the crawl
space floor, add one. The barrier should
be 0.10 mm or 0.15 mm (4 mil or 6 mil) poly-
ethylene overlapped at the seams and held
down with a few old boards or some other
scrap material. If there is likely to be
any traffic in the crawl space, you will need to
protect the polyethylene with a 50-mm (2-in.)
layer of sand.
PART III
CRAWL SPACES
Theoretically, a crawl
• It is usually easier to do a thorough
space can be insulated Insulating outside the crawl
insulating job on the walls, especially
in either of two ways: space is similar to insulating
when the crawl space is shallow
a full basement.
• the walls of the crawl or the joist spaces are uneven or
space can be insulated oddly shaped.
on either the inside or the outside, • If your crawl space does not open
• Less material is usually required if the
creating a heated area; or into a full basement, it should have
crawl space is of a typical height –
• the house floor above it can be insu- less than 1.5 m (5 ft.). ventilation at a ratio of 1 to 500 (vent
lated to keep heat from getting into area to floor area). The best time to
the crawl space in the first place. ventilate is in the spring because
How to Insulate and Heat a summer ventilation can increase con-
Insulating the walls is recommended for Crawl Space densation. Make sure these vents are
the following reasons: From the Outside closed and well sealed and insulated
• Heating ducts and water pipes in • Insulate the outside wall exactly as each winter!
the crawl space will not have to be described for the outside basement • If the foundation footings are above
insulated and will not freeze. Any wall (see pages 79 to 82). the frost line, insulate on the outside
heat loss from the ducts will not be of the crawl space walls. By insulating
• If outside obstructions (a porch, a
a total waste. on the outside, the walls will be kept
paved driveway, etc.) make it impos-
• The walls can be insulated on the sible to completely encircle the crawl warmer, avoiding any possibility of
outside to reduce the internal mois- space from outside the house, then frost heave. Shallow footings can be
ture problems that can develop in the inside of the wall may be insu- kept warmer by placing a layer of
damp crawl spaces and keep the soil lated at those points. horizontal insulation sloping away
below the footings warm. from the foundation.
Make sure that the inside and the out-
side portions overlap by at least 60 cm
(2 ft.) and insulate the inside portion.
The instructions that follow show
you how.
90
Keeping the Heat In 5 Basement Insulation
92
Keeping the Heat In 5 Basement Insulation
Interior Insulation
PART V
Quotes for interior insulation should
CONCRETE SLAB Near-horizontal insulation buried include details on wall preparation, the
ON THE GROUND in the soil provides frost protec- installation of a moisture barrier, the
tion to the slab-on-grade.
Insulation is applied to type and spacing of the framing, the
the foundation of type and quantity of insulation, details
houses without base- on a sealed air and vapour barrier, insu-
Contracting the Work
ments exactly as you lating and sealing details at the header,
Exterior Insulation sealing of penetrations and finishing
would insulate the out-
side of a full basement. Refer to pages Contracting for the excavation can save materials.
79 to 83 for complete details. time. If the whole job is being con-
tracted out, ensure that the quote
If the foundation is shallow on frost- includes parging, damp-proofing, drain
susceptible soils, a near-horizontal layer tiles and aggregate where required, the
of insulation should be installed in the type and quantity of insulation used,
soil. The closer the footing is to the sur- the fastening techniques used, sealing of
face, the longer the horizontal insulation penetrations, flashing and finishing
should be. Consult your local buildings details, a sloping grade and clean-up.
department or the insulation manufac-
turer for detailed information.
93
6 Insulating Walls
Keeping the Heat In
INTRODUCTION
Walls can account for 10 to 30 percent
of heat loss in houses. In addition to
heat loss through the walls, there are
many cracks and penetrations that allow
uncontrolled air leakage into and out of
the house.
94
Keeping the Heat In 6 Insulating Walls
Blown-In Insulation Renovating the Interior Renovating the Exterior Miscellaneous Spaces Additions and
Part I Part II Part III Part IV New Construction
Part V
95
Keeping the Heat In 6 Insulating Walls
PART I
BLOWN-IN
INSULATION
If you have empty There are three possible ways of doing
wood-frame wall cavi- this:
ties, have a professional
1. From the inside: Small holes of
insulation contractor
15 mm to 50 mm (5⁄8 in. to 2 in.) are Insulation blown in from
blow in loose-fill insula- the exterior
drilled through the inside wall finish
tion. Before you proceed, however,
and the insulation is blown directly
remember that the stud space is likely
into the wall.
only about 90 mm (3 1⁄2 in.) thick. If 2. From the outside: Most types of
there is already 5 cm (2 in.) of insula- The holes must be completely sealed exterior siding can be drilled or lifted to
tion, the benefits of blowing in more after the job is done. The patch job can permit access to the stud wall behind.
will be small and it will be very difficult be messy and unsightly unless immedi- Brick siding can have single bricks tem-
for a contractor to do a good job. You ately covered with new paint or wallpa- porarily removed. This leaves sufficient
may have to do a little exploring at dif- per, which should be impermeable. space to repair holes in the sheathing.
ferent locations to find out what is in Ideally, two stud spaces can be filled
This approach works best when com-
the walls. Try looking behind electrical from one brick space. Insulation should
bined with redecoration or renovation.
outlets (with the power off ). not be allowed to enter the drainage cav-
In fact, if the interior finish is in bad
ity between the brick veneer and the
A small hole must be drilled into each condition and needs to be replaced or
stud walls.
stud space in the walls; in most cases, two recovered, it should be possible to drill
or more must be drilled per storey – not the holes, blow in the insulation, plug Remember that each stud space will
more than 1.5 m (5 ft.) apart vertically, the holes, install a well-sealed polyethy- require two or more holes with this
and above and below windows and doors. lene air and vapour barrier over the old method. The top hole should be no
interior wall, and apply new drywall more than 30 cm (12 in.) from the top
over that. plate, preferably 15 cm (6 in.).
Make sure the installer patches the
holes section by section rather than
leaving them all until the end. If not,
you’ll have several holes in your wall
which will permit water entry if a flash
storm hits.
96
Keeping the Heat In 6 Insulating Walls
Blown-in insulation from the attic or basement leaves Potential blockages in the wall include wires, pipes,
the walls intact. blocking, windows and doors.
3. From the basement/attic: This can Just as you should choose your contrac- or some other area where it is not
be the easiest approach as long as the tor carefully, consult closely with the needed – a big waste! Make sure the
cavity is open from top to bottom, such contractor when choosing insulation. right amount is used.
as with balloon frame construction. A The characteristics of the different
Remember to tighten up the air-barrier
long tube is inserted into the cavity loose-fill insulations are outlined on
system. Seal all air leaks into the wall
from above or below to within 15 cm pages 26 to 29.
and keep your humidity levels low. A
(6 in.) of the bottom or top of the stud
When you have chosen the material, coat or two of low-permeability paint
space. The hose is then withdrawn,
figure out with the contractor how (oil-based or latex vapour-barrier paint)
30 cm (12 in.) at a time. At each stage,
much should be used. Knowing the size applied to the inside surface of the wall
the space is allowed to completely fill
of the wall to be filled and the density provides a vapour barrier.
with insulation.
of the application, you and the contrac-
All stud spaces in the wall need to be tor should agree on the number of bags
filled but there should be allowance for to be used – and write it into the con-
windows and doors, firebreaks, cross tract. Only a small variation from the
braces and other obstructions in the target is acceptable. If the contractor
wall cavity. The contractor should first uses too little, the insulation settles and
plumb the space and verify the horizon- leaves gaps in the wall. If too much is
tal spacing of studs. used, some of the insulation may be
escaping from the wall into a floor space
97
Keeping the Heat In 6 Insulating Walls
PART II
RENOVATING THE
INTERIOR
If your plans involve
extensive renovation,
you have two options:
n Rebuild the existing
wall. If you have a wood-
frame house and you are removing
the existing wall board or plaster, you
can easily insulate the cavity. You
could save even more energy by
adding insulation to the inside sur-
face. Attach 38 mm x 38 mm or
38 mm x 64 mm (2 x 2 or 2 x 3)
Insulating the interior involves:
strapping across the studs to allow for
1) insulating the old wall
a second layer of insulation in the 2) applying the air and vapour barrier
wall. Alternatively, you can mechani- 3) cross-strapping
cally fasten (not glue) rigid board 4) horizontal insulation between the strapping
insulation directly on the exposed 5) option of extending the insulation past partition walls
studs. High R-value boards are more
expensive but thinner, using up less
barrier is in the form of an oil-based In both cases, follow the relevant part of
interior space.
or latex vapour-barrier paint, you can the instructions for insulating a basement
n Build a new wall on the inside of reduce its effectiveness by scraping from the inside. This includes sealing air
the existing one. With both wood the surface. The new vapour barrier leaks, framing the new wall, framing
frame and masonry walls, you may should be more effective. Typically, a around window and door openings,
build a new wall inside the existing polyethylene sheet is installed as a insulating (ideally in two layers so there
one and then insulate it. If the old combined air and vapour barrier. The are no gaps), installing an air and vapour
wall has an existing vapour barrier, new frame wall can be installed any barrier, and installing new drywall.
such as a polyethylene sheet, it is distance from the old wall, depend-
preferable to remove it. If the vapour ing on the level of insulation desired.
98
Keeping the Heat In 6 Insulating Walls
• Before you start the work, identify • For non-standard stud spaces, cut the
the areas within the wall that need insulation (if the batt type is used)
work. These areas will include about 25 mm (1 in.) wider than the
plumbing, wiring, and heating and space to be filled.
ventilation ducts. Plan for the insula-
• Consider extending the insulation
tion to extend behind any pipes, elec-
past junctions at partition walls. To
trical boxes, and so on, so that these
do this, remove the drywall on the
obstructions are on the warm side of
Foam insulation, used carefully, partition wall back one stud space
the insulation. This may be difficult
can insulate and seal gaps around and cut back the partition wall
window and door frames.
when building new inside walls.
enough to extend the insulation
Electrical boxes may be moved into
and air and vapour barrier past the
the new wall; moving pipes can be
partition wall.
A few additional points should be more difficult. If there are any pipes
noted: in the existing wall (follow them up • If space is at a premium, insulate the
from the basement and down from rigid board insulation. This will cost
• If there is an existing uninsulated the bathroom and kitchen), they more for the materials, but will
cavity, it may be easier and less could freeze and burst if left outside require less space for the same
expensive to blow in insulation rather the insulation. Move the pipes or insulating value.
than expose the cavity first. insulate behind them rather than
• When installing a polyethylene air in front.
and vapour barrier, unroll the sheet • If you are rebuilding the existing
across the entire wall area, including wall, seal all cracks around door or
window and door openings. Cut window frames with polyurethane
these later with an “X” from corner foam sealant or stuff the gap with
to corner and seal the flaps to the insulation and caulk. If installing a
frame. Make sure the air and vapour new wall, you must frame the win-
barrier is well sealed at all joints, dows and doors.
openings and interruptions.
99
Keeping the Heat In 6 Insulating Walls
100
Keeping the Heat In 6 Insulating Walls
101
Keeping the Heat In 6 Insulating Walls
Trusses can be hung from the rafters and nailed to the existing wall.
102
Keeping the Heat In 6 Insulating Walls
PART IV
MISCELLANEOUS
SPACES
Warm air rises, but heat
radiates in all direc-
tions, so walls and
floors must be insulated
where they separate a
heated space from an unheated space.
This section deals with three special
cases: an unheated garage, a cold cellar
and overhangs.
Unheated Garage
The walls and the ceiling adjoining the Insulate between an unheated garage and the house.
house must be insulated.
The Walls
A contractor can blow the ceiling full of If there is a ceiling finish that you do
Refer to pages 96 to 99 for instructions insulation. Read the section on page 66 not want to remove, you can nail rigid
on wall insulation if the garage is above on how to insulate a covered attic floor. board insulation to it as long as the
ground; refer to pages 79 to 89 if it is Any holes cut in the ceiling should be surface is fairly even. The rigid board
below ground level. carefully re-sealed to prevent gas fumes may require a fire-protection layer,
The Ceiling from vehicles leaking into the rooms depending on code requirements. Seal
If the ceiling is open and the joists are above. Insulation must be blown in to any potential air-leakage paths that
visible, proceed as outlined for open the proper density to prevent settling. would allow air to bypass the insulation.
foundations (see page 92). It may be Cellulose insulation will provide addi- This is especially important at the
desirable and relatively easy to remove tional air-leakage control if applied to edges, where it may be necessary to
an existing ceiling finish. the right density. seal around the perimeter of the ceiling.
Seal this area with urethane foam
or with sections of impermeable rigid
board insulation caulked between
the joists.
103
Keeping the Heat In 6 Insulating Walls
104
Keeping the Heat In 6 Insulating Walls
Attic
High levels of insulation, a continuous
air and vapour barrier, and ventilation
are the features of an energy-efficient
attic. Roof trusses are available that
allow high insulation levels over the top
plate of the outer walls. These include
dropped chord trusses and scissors and
parallel chord trusses for cathedral
ceilings.
Walls
PART V The section in the illustration at right
ADDITIONS shows a 38 mm by 140 mm (2 x 6) wall
with insulating sheathing. Other wall
AND NEW systems include interior cross-strapping,
CONSTRUCTION double-wall systems and the use of
trusses. These systems allow the
Renovation often involves continuous air and vapour barrier part
some new construction, way in the wall. Note the recessed
such as the addition of headers that allow the continuous air
a room or wing. New and vapour barrier and extra insulation.
construction provides an Windows
opportunity to install a continuous air High-performance windows are
and vapour barrier and high levels of used wherever possible, i.e., double-
insulation in an efficient and cost- glazed and with a low-E (low-
effective way. emissivity) coating, or, better,
triple-glazed with low-E coating. The
The illustration at right shows a typical majority of windows face south. All
cross section of new construction from windows are sealed to the air barrier.
the roof to the footings. Note how both
Foundation
the insulation and air barrier run continu-
The foundation has full-depth
ously without breaks or thermal bridging. insulation, in this example, on the
exterior. Proper damp-proofing, a
drainage system and sloped grade
help ensure a dry basement.
Mechanical Systems
Heating requirements are less than for a
conventional structure. Combustion air
will be needed for all fuel-burning
appliances – or better yet, use
appliances that require little or no
household air to operate. Refer to
Chapter 8 for more information on
mechanical systems.
105
7 Upgrading Windows and
Keeping the Heat In
INTRODUCTION
Windows and doors can be big energy
wasters for three reasons:
• Glass itself is a highly heat-conduc-
tive material. Similarly, many
wooden doors are highly conductive.
• Doors and operable windows have
many paths where air leakage can
occur.
• Air can pass through the joints
around window and door frames
unless they are tightly sealed.
This chapter deals with weatherstrip-
ping and other ways of upgrading
windows and doors to save energy.
106
Keeping the Heat In 7 Upgrading Windows and Doors
Doors
Windows Doors
Part I Part II
107
Keeping the Heat In 7 Upgrading Windows and Doors
Stop
Sash
Glazing
Casing
weatherstripping types. The cheaper • Clean the surface with a clean cloth
types are usually less durable and less and fast-drying mineral spirits or
effective, so do not choose just on the MEK (methyl ethyl ketone).
basis of cost.
• Apply the weatherstripping. With
In most cases, newer windows will have doors and windows that are used
Sill
built-in weatherstripping, which can often, you may want to reinforce the
lose its effectiveness over time. Pry out a adhesive types with staples.
sample of the weatherstripping and take
• Check the window for smooth
it to the window manufacturer or sup-
Parts of a window operation.
plier for replacement with the same type.
• Periodically check the weatherstripping
Double-hung and single-hung windows
Weatherstripping for wear.
should be weatherstripped on the sides,
Windows should be weatherstripped top and bottom of the moving sash, as Sides. The thin plastic V-type weather-
around the sash to reduce air leakage. If shown in the diagram above. If there are stripping is a good choice. Open the
the windows do not have to be opened drafts around the fixed portion, these window and slip the stripping up the
and do not serve as emergency exits, areas should be caulked. crack between the sash and the frame,
they can be locked and caulked. with the mouth of the “V” facing
Preparation and installation is
outside. It need only extend to 25 mm
When sealing windows, make sure that important. This usually involves the
(1 in.) above the top of the closed win-
the inside window is sealed more tightly following steps.
dow. You can do a better job if you first
than the outside window. Otherwise,
• Adjust and square windows that are remove the stop and the bottom sash.
you will encounter condensation prob-
out of alignment.
lems as the warm, moist air from inside Top. Weatherstrip the space where
the house becomes trapped between • Remove old weatherstripping, the two sashes meet by removing the
the panes. caulking and blobs of paint. If the lower sash and applying V-type weather-
surface is very uneven, apply a bead stripping to the upper window from
Many different types of weatherstripping
of caulking under the weatherstrip- the inside.
are available. Pages 36 to 38 list a few of
ping or fill and sand the surface to
the more common varieties, but it is
make it smooth.
certainly not a complete list. Try to visit
a supplier who stocks a wide variety of
108
Keeping the Heat In 7 Upgrading Windows and Doors
109
Keeping the Heat In 7 Upgrading Windows and Doors
Removable Storm Windows should not fit too tightly to avoid These permanent storms are more
Single-pane storm windows are designed condensation between the storm and convenient than the removable type, but
to be installed each fall and removed inner window. The inner window are also more expensive, and cleaning
each spring (unless you have air condi- must be very well sealed with caulking between the storm and the window may
tioning, in which case they stay in or weatherstripping. be a problem. Some units are available
all year long). They can be made to with an energy-efficient low-E coating.
Permanent Storm Windows
order by suppliers listed under “Storm Regardless of which type you choose,
The combination-type storm window shop around for well-made windows.
Windows and Doors” in your local
has both screening and glass in the same Look at the quality of hardware and
Yellow Pages™ directory. The major
unit, serving your needs year-round. weatherstripping and the strength of
advantage of these removable storm
These windows have metal frames and joints. These windows are a long-term
windows over permanent ones is a
are made to order by specialized suppliers investment and can increase your
lower cost.
(see “Storm Windows and Doors” in property value, so quality construction
These windows must be checked season- your local Yellow Pages™ directory). is important.
ally; damaged putty must be replaced Installation can be done by the supplier
and the frames painted regularly to or by you.
preserve the wood. Conventional storms
110
Keeping the Heat In 7 Upgrading Windows and Doors
New Windows For further information on choosing One of the most practical solutions is to
Most existing windows can be repaired, new windows and doors, refer to design or buy a flexible insulating
weatherstripped and have new glass page 133 to order a copy of the curtain to pull across the window or roll
added if necessary. However, there are Consumer’s Guide to Buying Energy- down from above. The curtain should
circumstances when it is appropriate Efficient Windows and Doors. ideally be made from a heavy, multi-lay-
to buy new windows. New windows ered material covered with your choice
may be required in the following of fabric. Even one or two thick drapes
Window Protection and
circumstances: over a window should do a good job if
Operation
tightly fitted. The curtain should fit
• the old windows have deteriorated; Windows can be used to provide fresh snugly along the window ledge or be
air and remove excess humidity and weighted for a tight fit along the floor.
• there is extensive damage (such as
odours. But be careful – it is hard to A valance or enclosure along the top is a
rot) to the surrounding wall caused
control windows as ventilators and it is good way to prevent air from falling
by the old window;
easy to let too much cold air in. behind the curtain.
• you are undertaking major renova-
Shutters, shades and awnings can be
tions or building an addition; or
used to keep the sun out. Window
• you want changes in window size, insulation can be used in the winter to
their operation or the appearance of provide extra insulation for improved
the house. comfort and energy savings.
111
Keeping the Heat In 7 Upgrading Windows and Doors
112
Keeping the Heat In 7 Upgrading Windows and Doors
113
8 Operating Your House
Keeping the Heat In
INTRODUCTION
By now you should be very familiar
with the “house as a system” concept.
Like any system, however, your house
will run only as efficiently as it is ope-
rated. As the homeowner, this puts you
in the driver’s seat. How you live in your
home and maintain and operate it will
have a lot to do with the success of your
retrofit activities. If you operate it
poorly, you will negate a large part of
your retrofit gains. If you operate it
efficiently, you can actually improve
your home’s heating performance.
Even more important, you will create
a healthier, more comfortable living
environment. Most furnaces and boilers
operate below peak efficiency because
of poor maintenance. A well-tuned and
efficiently operating heating system
can significantly reduce your annual
fuel bill.
114
Keeping the Heat In 8 Operating Your House
115
Keeping the Heat In 8 Operating Your House
In addition, the balance of the heat entire system is covered, with the insula- Domestic Hot Water
distribution will likely have changed. tion taped securely. Don’t wrap the
Domestic hot water systems also con-
Insulation and air sealing could mean ducts of a wood-fired furnace within
sume large amounts of energy – more
that some hard-to-heat rooms are now 1.8 m (6 ft.) unless you use a special
than all your lights and appliances com-
easier to heat, while other rooms may non-combustible insulation designed for
bined. In fact, next to space heating, the
overheat. This may require a re-balance wrapping ducts.
water heater is the largest energy user in
of the system by either adjusting the
It is also a good idea to check return-air the home.
dampers in a ducted system or adjusting
ducts, especially where they pass
valves in a hot water system. Insulating your water heater storage
through crawl spaces or garages, and
tank is a fairly simple and inexpensive
Ask the service mechanic or heating caulk or tape only leaky joints.
improvement that can help maintain the
contractor who maintains your system
For houses with hydronic systems, water temperature at the thermostat set-
what changes may be required so that
placing foil-covered insulation board ting. Some new models of water heaters
your system operates at top efficiency.
between radiators and exterior walls are well insulated and do not need an
will reflect heat back into the room that added layer, but a heater that is warm to
Heating Ducts would otherwise be lost to the outside. the touch on the side of the casing can
Heating ducts running through benefit from an insulating jacket. An
unheated or cool basements should be insulation kit that contains a vinyl-cov-
Fireplaces
insulated. First, tape the joints to pre- ered insulation jacket, pre-cut tape and
The heat supplied by a fire will not instructions can be purchased from
vent leakage. While you’re at it, it would
make up for the loss of heat when hardware stores. Follow the manufac-
be well worth your while to use alu-
house air is drawn up the chimney. turer’s instructions when installing kits.
minum foil duct tape to tape the joints
Consequently, most fireplaces are
of all heating ducts, regardless of Insulating jackets are not recommended
unable to provide any net heat gain.
whether they are to be insulated or not. for oil-fired water heaters. Caution must
There are several fireplace accessories
Then take 75 mm (3 in.) or more of be used when installing an insulating
such as tightly-fitted glass doors and
mineral-fibre batts or blankets and cut jacket on a gas-fired water heater in
outdoor air intakes that offer nominal
them to size. Specially designed batts order to avoid blocking the airflow to
improvements on fireplace efficiency.
are available for this purpose. Wrap the burner.
the insulation around the ducts or else For information on how to improve fire-
install it lengthwise. Make sure the place performance, read A Guide to
Residential Wood Heating, which can be
obtained from the address listed on
page 133.
116
Keeping the Heat In 8 Operating Your House
Taping and insulating heating ducts in an unheated space Insulating the hot water tank
For more information on insulating thick to be effective. You can use • Fix leaky faucets. At one drop per
hot water tanks, consult with your local pieces of batt with duct tape, or the second, you are wasting 720 litres
fuel supplier. wrap-type insulation, but the ideal (160 gallons) per month – or 16 hot
pipe insulation for existing homes is baths!
Insulating the hot water tank should
the snap-on type. These are long
save enough money to pay back the • Run washing machines with full
tubes slit lengthwise that snap over
costs of materials quickly. You can save loads and rinse with cold water.
the piping and then are glued shut.
even more on your hot water bill by
acting on the following suggestions: • Install a flow restrictor in the shower-
head pipe and aerators in the faucets.
• Insulate hot water pipes that pass
These inexpensive gadgets will allow
through unheated areas or service
you to do the same job with much
washing machines. The insulation
less water.
should be at least 13 mm (1⁄2 in.)
117
Keeping the Heat In 8 Operating Your House
118
Keeping the Heat In 8 Operating Your House
Kitchen and bathroom fans should be used regularly. Low and high windows provide good ventilation.
• back-puffing/odours from the • Install a sump pump to remove The following table shows the maxi-
furnace; and excessive moisture from the soil mum levels of humidity at which there
under the slab. will be no condensation on double-
• backdrafts from the fireplace.
glazed windows at various outside
• Fix all water leaks into the basement.
temperatures.
Solutions • Do not allow any standing water in
If the problem is one of high humidity the house or against the foundation Outside Air Maximum
or condensation, the first step is to wall. Temperature Inside Humidity
reduce the humidity level by controlling (ºC) at 20ºC (68ºF)
• Make sure the ground slopes away
the amount of water vapour that goes in from the foundation wall and that –30º or below 15 percent
the air. The following suggestions will all there are properly functioning
reduce a home’s humidity levels: –30º to –24º 20 percent
eavestroughs around the house.
• Do not store wood in the house. –24º to –18º 25 percent
• Ventilate kitchens and bathrooms
• Avoid hang-drying laundry in the during use. –18º to –12º 35 percent
house. • Adjust your living habits to produce –12º to 0º 40 percent
• Disconnect any humidifiers. less humidity (cleaning, washing,
cooking, etc.). If can be very difficult to accurately
• Cover exposed earth floors in measure and maintain the recom-
basements or crawl spaces with a mended humidity levels. A simple
moisture barrier.
119
Keeping the Heat In 8 Operating Your House
122
Keeping the Heat In 8 Operating Your House
General Maintenance
Once you have your house operating
efficiently, it is important to keep it that
way. Make a maintenance schedule and
check to make sure the energy-saving
measures you have initiated are working
for you. Keep an eye on your heating
system and perform regular maintenance.
Check for signs of moisture damage or
structural deterioration, and take imme-
diate action if you locate any trouble
spots. It is a good idea to inspect your
attic during the cold months. Extensive
frost buildup is a good indication that
you have a moisture problem.
Do not forget – if you look after the lit-
tle things, the heating bill will look after
itself. Make sure your weatherstripping
is in place and functioning as it should.
Check any caulking you have applied
for cracks, and recaulk as necessary. It is
important to locate and remedy small
problems and not give them a chance to
become large problems.
These simple measures will help you
save energy and leave you with a
healthier, happier home!
123
9 Dollars and Sense
Keeping the Heat In
• Electricians, plumbers, drywallers, there is a scramble to “close in” buildings Comparison Shop
finish carpenters, tile setters, painters before the snow falls. The fall may not be
Retrofitting can be a very good invest-
and decorators may also be involved the best time to look for a contractor to
ment, but it is still important to get the
in a retrofit project. undertake an exterior retrofit.
most for your money. Both the price of
• General contractors are the band Labour strikes that affect new construc- materials and the rates of contractors
leaders of the renovation field. They tion also affect the renovation field. can vary considerably. It almost always
orchestrate and direct all the other Material shortages can also upset sched- pays to comparison shop before you
trades, but they usually employ their ules and the normal flow of work. go ahead.
own framers and finish carpenters.
Smart scheduling, particularly for smaller The renovation and retrofit industry is
If you are hiring one or more trades-
jobs, can make the job run smoothly known for a high turnover of businesses.
people, then you are acting as your
and save you a lot of money. Make use Knowing what to look for can help you
own general contractor on the job.
of seasonal and local conditions to order select contractors who are serious about
materials and hire contractors in the off- their business. Conditions will vary
Scheduling Appropriately season when materials are on sale and among provinces and communities,
Seasonal and local conditions will contractors are not charging a premium. but it is good practice to look for the
affect the availability of contractors and Generally, winter is the slow season in following certifications and credentials:
materials. Being aware of the conditions construction but ideal for interior work.
• Business licence: All provinces
in your area will help you to schedule An early spring start for outside work
license companies that sign contracts
your work for the best time. Many will give you a better choice of contractors
in the home. Check with your
tradespeople work in both new construc- and lower prices. Some materials such
provincial department of consumer
tion and retrofit projects. If there is a as insulation are subject to seasonal sales
affairs. (Some municipalities also
new-construction “boom” on in your as manufacturers and building-supply
require a business licence.)
area, then fewer contractors will be houses clear out last year’s inventory.
available for smaller retrofit jobs. The Check with your local building-supply
construction field is seasonally depen- house that services contractors. When
dent. When the season has been busy, there is a shortage of materials or a con-
struction boom, it may pay you to post-
pone your work a few months.
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Keeping the Heat In 9 Dollars and Sense
• Trade membership: Many types of apply. Ask prospective contractors of their business. A large general con-
contractors have their own trade asso- what qualifications and technical tractor who did a successful major reno-
ciations; many heating contractors education they and their workers vation for your friends may not be the
belong to the Heating, Refrigerating possess and how regularly they right choice for a small attic retrofit.
and Air Conditioning Institute of update them. Finally, check to see how busy they are;
Canada (HRAI), and the National you don’t want to be last in line for a
• Insurance: Contractors should be
Energy Conservation Association contractor who’s overbooked.
insured for their business and the
(NECA) is the association whose
work they do on your home. This As you narrow down the list, you should
members retrofit building envelopes.
should include public liability, prop- end up with at least three contractors
The Canadian Home Builders’
erty damage and any damage within whom you will ask to quote on the job.
Association (CHBA) has renovation
the first year after completion of
councils in many provinces which
the work.
represent general renovation contrac- Permits, Codes and Standards
tors. Association membership is an • Warranty: Contractors should always
While you are at the planning stage,
indication to the consumer that the provide a warranty or guarantee on
check with the building department of
contractor is concerned about the the work performed. In some cases
your municipality to find out which
quality of work performed by its the warranty is provided solely by the
permits you’ll need. This varies from
industry. contractor; in other trades it is
province to province, but usually special
backed by the trade association or is
• Better Business Bureau: Local permits are required for any changes to
third-party insured.
offices of this organization maintain plumbing, heating and electrical wiring.
records for any complaints against • Track record: The best recommenda- Building permits are also required for
businesses. tion for any business is a satisfied any excavation, additions, changes or
customer. Ask for recommendations alterations to the walls of a building.
• Technical qualifications: In some
from friends and neighbours and
provinces, tradespeople such as The purpose of the permit process and
check out recent work performed by
electricians, plumbers and heating the related inspections is to ensure that
the company.
contractors are required to have tech- the work on your home meets provincial
nical certification as well as a business To find the right contractor, start with a or municipal requirements for health
licence. In addition, technical update list of those recommended by your and safety, and that it is structurally
courses are offered by various associa- friends, other tradespeople you have sound. The National Building Code of
tions for their members. Check with dealt with or building suppliers. Then Canada, developed by the Associate
the association in your area to find make sure they are experienced with the Committee on the National Building
out what technical qualifications type of work you’re proposing and that Code, serves as a model for the
the size of your job is suited to the scale provinces, which have the authority to
regulate buildings. Membership on
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Keeping the Heat In 9 Dollars and Sense
this committee includes architects, • The Canadian General Standards The amount of detail in your written
engineers, academics, land surveyors, Board (CGSB) is a government instructions will vary depending on the
municipal inspectors, builders and agency operating as a national size of the job. Remember, building
consumers. Many provinces have adopted standards-writing body. components are hidden from sight once
the National Building Code in whole or the job is completed, so it is important
in part, and some have a separate code or to describe clearly what you want. For a
Provide Clear Instructions
section of the code governing renovation simple attic retrofit, you may need just a
activities. In some cases the province Whether you plan to hire just one sub- set of written notes outlining the work.
delegates some of the supervisory roles tradesperson or a general contractor for a This might include the area to be insu-
to the municipality. major renovation, it’s important to be lated, the amount and type of insulation
specific about the work to be done. and RSI value to be achieved, and direc-
A building inspector can be a valuable Without clear instructions to all con- tions for installing the air barrier, vapour
resource for your project. With their cerned, misunderstandings can occur barrier and any required ventilation. A
many years of experience in the con- and you may not get what you thought major renovation or retrofit may require
struction field, inspectors can often you bargained for. some or all of the following:
provide valuable advice on quality of
workmanship, local construction Giving clear instructions about what • a site plan;
practices, suitable materials and other you want and expect is important at
three different stages of the job: • floor plans;
concerns, in addition to ensuring that
your work meets the building code. • Planning: Drawings and specifica- • elevations of the house exterior;
Codes will often state that products or tions may be required for your permit • a cross section of the house;
installation methods must conform to a application. Preparing written
instructions will also help you to • detailed drawings; and
certain standard. There are three organi-
zations that write standards and test and ensure that you’ve included all essen- • written specifications.
certify products affecting residential tial aspects of the job in your plans.
Your local building department can
renovation work: • Getting quotes: Clear directions advise you on what information is
• CSA International is a non-govern- are necessary to obtain comparable required for the permit. In addition,
ment agency that prepares standards quotes with all the contractors you should include instructions about
and certifies products such as electri- bidding on the same materials and disposal of building materials, responsi-
cal fixtures. quality of work. bility for permit applications, temporary
• Under contract: Including clear services (if needed) and other details for
• Underwriters’ Laboratories of
instructions in the contract will help major jobs.
Canada (ULC) certifies mainly
products related to fire safety. to ensure that there are no misunder-
standings while the work is in progress.
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Keeping the Heat In 9 Dollars and Sense
Get a Written Quote affairs office. The guidelines below pro- These documents should be checked
vide an example of what is likely to be by your lawyer.
For proper comparison, you will need a
required.
number of quotes. Using your written Take the time to review the contract
instructions will ensure that all the con- • Your name and address, the contrac- carefully (including all the fine print)
tractors are bidding on the same job. tor’s name and address, the contractor’s and make sure that you understand
Always insist on a written quote that full company name, phone number everything before you sign it. A serious
includes all the details in your set of and name of the company’s signing contractor will appreciate your thor-
instructions. It’s also wise practice to ask officer. oughness and will not mind waiting a
the contractors to supply two or more day or two.
• A detailed description of the work to
references of previous clients with their
be done under the contract. (Include Read the fine print carefully. Some firms
quote. When comparing quotes, double-
your written instructions and any have worded their contracts in such a
check to make sure that the contractor
plans and specifications.) way that they are not responsible for any
understood the instructions; a very
problems following the work. Such
low bid may mean that the contractor • An itemized price for the work and
clauses usually imply that any subse-
misunderstood the work or substituted the terms of payment.
quent problems (e.g., peeling paint,
lower quality materials and workmanship.
• A statement of any warranty or guar- cracks) are related to “hidden construc-
Take the time to evaluate all the quotes antee on the work to be performed. tion defects” that existed prior to the
and to check the references. Do not let retrofit work. This may not necessarily
• Specific dates for starting the work
anyone pressure you into signing a con- be the case. Stroke out these clauses
and completing it.
tract before you are ready. before you sign.
• Signatures of both parties, with each
All verbal agreements should be written
retaining an original signed copy of
Use a Contract into the contract. If there are minor
the contract.
Once you’ve chosen a contractor, insist changes you wish to make, write them
on a written contract. The contractor For smaller jobs the contract need in on both copies of the contract. They
may have a standard printed form but it not be a complicated document, but will be valid if initialled by both you
should be used only as a starting point it should include all the items listed and the contractor.
for negotiations. above. The amount of detail in the
contract should increase with the size
While there is no such thing as a stan- Make Sure You Have Recourse
of the job. For major renovations and
dard contract, provincial legislation may retrofit jobs, a full set of contract Insist on a written warranty as part of
specify what must be included in a con- documents should be prepared, includ- the contract. Responsible contractors
tract for it to be effective. Check with ing plans and detailed specifications. will guarantee their work and assume
your municipal or provincial consumer responsibility for problems that could
develop later as a result of their work.
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Keeping the Heat In 9 Dollars and Sense
Be wary when asked to pay in advance Never sign on impulse. Ask the salesper- required to keep track of the work
or in cash to a salesperson rather than by son to give you a copy of the contract so and resolve any problems as they arise.
cheque or money order to the company you may think it over; if this request is The payment schedule should be tied
itself. If a downpayment is required, refused, it’s probably because you are on to work actually done, and not to
keep it as small as possible. Usually the the verge of closing a bad deal. Shop predetermined dates. Where permits
first payment is made only on delivery around to compare quality and prices. are involved, you may wish to tie in
of materials to the site. Advance down- Do not be pressured into buying. progress payments to successful passing
payments are restricted to situations of the various building inspections
If you sign a contract in your home,
where the contractor has to place an during the course of the job.
remember that all provincial statutes
advance order for large quantities of
regulating direct (door-to-door) sales Your final payments should be made
special materials (such as custom-made
have a so-called “cooling off ” provision. only some time after the work is totally
windows). Payment schedules should
This gives you the right to cancel a con- complete. In most provinces, legislation
be tied to work actually completed and
tract signed with a door-to-door sales- permits you to retain a set percentage of
not to arbitrary dates. Any provisions
person within a specified number of the total cost of the work for a specific
for holdbacks should be written into
days. The number of days varies from period of time. The purpose of this
the contract.
province to province; check with your holdback is to help limit your liability
You should also be aware that if your provincial consumers’ bureau. There should a contractor fail to pay suppliers,
contract is sold to a third party, such as may be other instances where you can workers or sub-trades. The legislation
a finance company, you are obligated to cancel your contract after the cooling- varies from province to province. Your
it regardless of any complaints you may off period is over. Again, check with provincial consumers’ bureau will be
have about the quality of the work. your provincial consumers’ bureau. able to provide you with details.
Index
130
Keeping the Heat In • Index
NEED MORE EnerGuide for Home Heating Every New House Should Be
and Cooling This Good
INFORMATION? If you are interested in a particular R-2000 homes are the best built, most
Order Free Publications from energy source, the OEE has booklets on comfortable homes in Canada, and they
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what you can do to reduce your energy EnerGuide for Choosing the Most during the construction process, once
use and maintenance costs while Energy-Efficient Products completed, R-2000 homes are certified
increasing your comfort and helping to as being energy efficient.
protect the environment. When shopping for household appli-
ances, office equipment, lighting prod-
ucts, and windows and doors, consult
Renovating Your Home the OEE’s series of Consumers’ Guides.
Fact sheets are available on air-leakage They’ll help you know what to look for
control, improving window energy when it comes to energy efficiency.
efficiency and moisture problems. The EnerGuide label, which is affixed
Before you renovate, consider contacting to all new major electrical household
an energy advisor who will perform an appliances and room air conditioners,
energy evaluation of your home and helps you compare the energy ratings
provide expert unbiased advice. Our of all models sold in Canada. EnerGuide
telephone operators can connect you ratings are also listed in the OEE’s
with an advisor in your local area. annual directories of major electrical
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conditioners.
132
Keeping the Heat In Need More Information?
133
Keeping the Heat In
Notes
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Keeping The Heat In
Notes
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Notes
136
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