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Jess Stryker's
Landscape Sprinkler Design Tutorial
Step #3
Sprinkler Spacing
This is important, read it carefully!
Sprinkler Coverage:
The area watered by each sprinkler must overlap substantially the area watered
by the adjacent sprinkler. This overlap may seem like a waste at first, but it is a
very important necessity. Without this overlap it would be impossible to design
sprinkler systems that provided uniform water coverage.
Have Doubts? See for yourself, it only takes a couple of minutes to
prove! Grab a piece of paper and draw circles on it so that all areas
of the paper are inside a circle, but no circles overlap. You can't do
it, can you?
Important!
Sprinklers are intentionally designed to require 100% overlap of watered areas.
That means each sprinkler throws water ALL the way to the next sprinkler in
each direction. READ THAT AGAIN!
That's right, 100% overlap of watered areas is REQUIRED or you will get dry
spots! This is known in the industry as "head-to-head coverage or head-to-head
spacing". A lot of those free design brochures you find in stores get this
wrong. They don't show enough overlap! The writers of those brochures think
you are going to look at the overlap and buy the brand of sprinkler that shows
the least heads. So they try to make it look like you can use less heads with
their sprinklers. After you've bought the sprinklers if you have dry spots, well
hey, it's YOUR problem now! You'll probably just buy a few more sprinklers to
fill in the gaps. $$$ Ching, ching!
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explain. The perfect sprinkler would put out a pattern of water that
is heaviest right next to the sprinkler, then uniformly declines out to
the radius. So the farther you move away from the sprinkler, the less
water falls on any given patch of ground. When we test sprinklers
for water coverage we set up a series of cups between the sprinklers
to collect the water that falls. That way we can see how much water
falls at various distances from the sprinkler. In the diagram below
you can see what happens when there are various distances
between the sprinklers.
In example "A" the sprinklers are just barely overlapping and much
more water is falling in the cups next to the sprinkler heads. But the
middle 3 cups are only getting the water of the cups next to the
sprinkler. If you watered long enough to keep the middle green, the
areas around the sprinklers would turn to mud! In example "B" we
see that moving the sprinklers closer together has evened up the
amount of water a bit more. However the areas near the heads are
still getting 25% more water than the other areas. Not enough to
cause mud, but you would definitely see rings of greener grass
around the sprinklers! Example "C" shows almost head-to-head
spacing. The cups are almost all uniformly full! So don't stretch the
distance between sprinklers.
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Calculating the GPM for sprinklers when you reduce the radius is
easy:
For spray heads you just use the manufacturer's chart.
When you use the radius adjustment on a spray you are
simply reducing the water pressure by closing a small
valve in the nozzle. As the pressure drops, so does the
radius. Just look at the manufacturer's chart for the
radius you plan to reduce the sprinkler down to. Then
read the GPM for that radius! For example, your
designing for 30 PSI. The radius at 30 PSI of the
sprinkler you selected is 15 feet with 1.85 GPM according
to the manufacturer's chart. But you want the radius to
be 14 feet. Looking at the manufacturer's chart you see
that the radius of the same sprinkler is 14' at 25 PSI with
1.65 GPM. So the GPM of that sprinkler if you reduce the
radius to 14' will be 1.65 GPM. That's because when turn
the radius adjustment screw to reduce the radius to 14'
what you REALLY did was reduce the pressure to 25 PSI!
For rotor heads the GPM stays the same no matter how
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Avoid using rotors with nozzle flows that are less than 2.5 GPM,
except in corners (quarter circle patterns). Flows under 2.5 GPM give
very poor coverage due to the tiny water stream. Even a slight
breeze will distort the watering pattern and give you dry spots. I
strongly suggest that you stick to using nozzles as close as possible
to the GPM of those in the cheat chart below.
O.K. Now that you understand the principles, let's simplify this a bit
by using a cheat chart...
Unless you really know what you're doing (in which case you
wouldn't be reading this tutorial), you should stick with the
nozzles on this chart:
Jess Stryker's
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now come with a "nozzle tree" that contains most of the different
nozzles for the rotor, so you can change the nozzle sizes if you need
to. Some manufacturer's don't offer nozzles sizes larger than 3.0
GPM for their economy-priced heads (providing those extra nozzles
would probably cost them at least another penny in costs!). You may
need to upgrade to the next better model line if you have a large
yard! The larger size nozzles for 40' spacing are not available with
most of the "mini-rotor" models sold for residential use. You will
need to upgrade to the next model. Also, sometimes other nozzle
sizes are available separately from the manufacturer, for example
low angle nozzles. You will probably need to get these from a store
that specializes in irrigation sales, rather than a hardware or home
store. Look in the yellow pages under "Irrigation" or "Sprinklers", or
try one of the online stores listed in the tutorial links pages.
There is a conflict between the nozzles recommended for the 20-29'
spacing range of the chart and my previous advice to "avoid using
rotors with nozzle flows that are less than 2.5 GPM". This is because
the Nozzle Selection Guide assumes you will be mixing 20-29' radius
rotors together on the same valve with 30' plus radius rotors. To
keep from having enormous nozzles on the larger radius rotors I am
recommending that you use smaller nozzles than I would otherwise
consider for the smaller radius rotors. This is essentially a
compromise. Sometimes it is not practical to obtain perfection! If all
or a majority of your rotors will be spaced at 20-29' apart, then you
should probably use larger nozzles than I recommend in the chart.
In other words, use those listed in the chart for 30-39' spacing for
the 20-29' spacing. This will help avoid problems caused by the wind
blowing the spray out of the irrigated area. However, if your
sprinkler system will be located in an area with little or no wind you
can go ahead and use the smaller nozzles in the chart. What is little
or no wind? Go outside in the evening or early morning when you
will likely be irrigating. If you can feel the wind blowing even gently
against your face, I would consider that enough wind to need the
larger nozzles.
If you calculate the precipitation rates you will notice that the
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Windy Locations
If you are designing a sprinkler system for an area where the wind blows a lot
you should look at the Irrigation and Wind FAQ.
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Later on you will need to know the flow rate for each sprinkler you use, so
it might be helpful to make some notes on the back of your Design Data Form
showing the nozzle size and GPM you will need for each different sprinkler you
plan to use. Otherwise you'll wind up having to look the information up over,
and over, and over...
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