Category Insight: Eye Colour Cosmetics

April 2014
2014 Mintel Group Ltd. All Rights Reserved. Confidential to Mintel

Title definitions
Eye Colour Cosmetics Eye Brow
Cosmetic products, in any format, for use on the eyebrows only to define and shape.
Includes brow gel, brow mascara, brow builders/fillers, brow pencils, brow powders and
brow serums. Includes dual-ended packs, palettes and sets when each product is intended
to be used on the eyebrows, but excludes dual-ended packs, palettes and sets when only
one product is to be used on the eyebrows (such as Eye Liner and Brow Mascara), or
products that are positioned for more than one purpose (i.e. Brow & Lash Gel) these are
classified under Multi-Use.
Eye Colour Cosmetics Eye Lash
Products to enhance the eye lashes only, such as mascara, lash jewels or false lashes.
Excludes: uncoloured lash growth serums and treatments (categorised under Skincare
Eye Care); eye lash curlers (the GNPD does not cover these); brow mascara; lash primer
(categorised under Face Colour Cosmetics Primer); brow & lash gels (classified under
Multi-Use); and dual-ended packs, palettes and sets when only one product is to be used on
the eye lashes (such as lip gloss & mascara), or products that are positioned for more than
one purpose - i.e. MascaLiner (a mascara & liner in one) these are also classified under
Multi-Use.

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Title definitions
Eye Colour Cosmetics Eye Liner
Liquid, stick or powder liner to define the eyes. Product will usually refer to itself as a liner, kohl or
kajal. Liquid liners are traditionally packaged in small bottles with tiny brush or felt applicators for
sharp, precise lines; powder-based eye pencils are usually wooden and available in dark, matte
shades; wax-based eye pencils are usually softer, apply easily, are available in a host of colours
from light to dark, and can also be available in compacts; whilst kohl/kajal is a soft powder in dark,
matte shades that can be pencil, pressed powder or loose powder. Includes dual-ended packs,
palettes and sets when each product is intended to line the eyes, but excludes: make-up removing
pencils (categorised under Skincare Eye Cleansers); and inseparable dual-ended packs, palettes
and sets when only one product is to be used as an eye liner (such as eye liner & lipgloss), or
products that are positioned for more than one purpose - i.e. MascaLiner (a mascara & liner in one)
these are classified under Multi-Use.
Eye Colour Cosmetics Eye Shadow
Shadow/colour for the eyelids and the skin up to the brow bone, in any format, including mousse,
powder and cream. Can be available in a host of shades and textures. Includes dual-ended packs,
palettes and sets when each product is intended to shadow the eyes, but excludes: pencils (please
categorise under Skincare Eye Cleansers); eye primers or bases (these are categorised under
Face Colour Cosmetics Primer); eye concealers (categorised under Face Colour Cosmetics
Concealer); and dual-ended packs, palettes and sets when only one product is to be used as an
eyeshadow (such as Mascara & Shadow) or products that are positioned for more than one purpose
(i.e. shadow that is positioned for use on the eyes and the cheeks) these are classified under
Multi-Use.
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Contents

GLOBAL OVERVIEW
EUROPE

ASIA PACIFIC

NORTH AMERICA

LATIN AMERICA

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GLOBAL
OVERVIEW

Global markets

Key issue: Long lasting claims grow as consumers look for convenience

Key issue: Mascara brands innovate for lash growth

Mintel Futures

What does it mean?

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Executive Summary
Global markets

The colour cosmetics markets of

Australia and South Korea both
continue to grow strongly as spend
per capita is high. Emerging
economies, such as Indonesia, India
and Vietnam, have enjoyed stronger
growth, but remain hamstrung by
their low per capita spend.

Key issues

What does it mean?

Mascara brands have continued to

innovate heavily around applicators
and formulations as they look to add
volume and length to lashes.

Long lasting eye colour cosmetics

have appeal in both the developed
and developing world, with
increasingly busy women looking for
products that do not require
reapplication. Brands should be
looking beyond the eight and 12-hour
claims that have traditionally defined
the industry, as more 24-hour and 48hour cosmetics hit the market.

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Global markets: Colour Cosmetics

Key Opportunity Markets

Australia and South Korea have seen impressive

growth and per capita spend. In growth terms, they
have been outclassed by Indonesia, India and
Vietnam despite their low per capita spend, which is
still holding back the size of their markets.

LOW GROWTH
HIGH SPEND

LOW GROWTH
LOW SPEND

Slowing Markets

Spain and Japan have recorded average value

declines over the last five years. The mature
Japanese market has struggled due to shifts in
channel distribution, from department stores to
drug stores and online, as well as a weak economy.

HIGH GROWTH
HIGH SPEND

HIGH GROWTH
LOW SPEND

Source: Mintel

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Eye colour cosmetic innovation declines

35%
33%
30%

31%
29%

30%
28%

29%
28%

25%

25%

23%
20%

20%

15%

15%

16%

15%

26%
24%

13%

10%
5%
0%

4%

0.4%

0.4%
March 2010 - 2011

Nail Colour Cosmetics

4%

4%

March 2011 - 2012

Lip Colour

Eye Colour

3%

0.4%
March 2012 - 2013

Face Colour

Multi-Use

0.3%
March 2013 - 2014

Body Colour Cosmetics

Eye colour cosmetic innovation has declined steadily as a percentage of total colour cosmetic NPD over
the last four years, from a peak of 29% in 2010/2011 to 24% in the 12 months to March 2014. This is
predominantly due to a rise in nail launches, which are now responsible for a third of introductions.
Launches of both face colour and multi-use products have remained steady, while lip colour cosmetics
still form the second most innovative segment.

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Eye shadow dominates, as eye liner launches rise

Eye shadow continues to dominate eye colour cosmetic innovation, accounting for more than half of
total launches in the 12 months to March 2014. This is largely due to the wide number of shades
available. The development of eyeliners has risen steadily in the review period, driven by diversification
of formats and innovations in the developing markets of Asia Pacific and Latin America. Eye lash
products, meanwhile, accounted for just 16% of launches in 2013/2014, despite the widespread usage
of mascara.
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Market overview: Top five claims, by sub-category, 2013

Eye Brow
Eye Lash

Botanical/herbal claims have a

stronger presence in eye lash
innovation, while waterproof
formulations are important as
consumers look for life-proof
products.

Eye Liner

Eye Brow

Long- asting claims dominate in

the eye brow segment, where
consumers do not want to reapply
more than once a day. Other
convenience claims, such as ease
of use and time/speed, are also
common.

Long lasting claims are at their

most important in this segment.
The same is true of seasonal
products, as brands relaunch
existing shades as part of their
limited edition ranges.

Eye Lash

Eye Shadow

Eye Liner

10

Eye shadow

Brightening/illuminating remains
the most important claim in the
eye shadow segment, as it is the
primary function of the
products, ahead of long lasting
and ease of use.

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Long-lasting claims grow as consumers desire convenience

In the 12 months to March 2014, long lasting appeared as a claim on 47% of global eye colour cosmetic
launches, up from 34% in 2010/2011. The majority of these innovations were in the eye shadow
segment, but eye liners influence is larger, at 35%, than the total colour cosmetics market. This has
been driven by growing desire for convenient cosmetics as more women enter the workforce in
developing economies and lifestyles become stressed in the developed world. They also appeal to valueseeking consumers as products that require less frequent application lengthen time between purchases.
This is important in markets, such as the US, where 13% of make-up users are spending less on eye
shadow. Most products have a general long lasting claim, but more brands are now specifying the
number of hours required before reapplication.
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Long lasting innovations

France: Avon Extra Lasting Powder

Eyeshadow relaunched with a new
formula that claims to last for 18 hours
(previously 12 hours).

Germany: Astor Big & Beautiful Boom!

24H Volume Mascara claims to instantly
volumise and plump lashes, offering 24hour wear.

Czech Republic: Essence Stays No

Matter What 24h Volume Mascara said
to be perfect for long nights of dancing,
shopping tours or swimming sessions.

US: Sephora Collection Colorful 24 HR

Eyeliner is an ultra long lasting eyeliner
that remains smudge-proof all day long.

UK: Revlon ColorStay Evening Opulence

16 Hour Eyeshadow Quad - all day
luxurious colour that doesn't crease,
fade or smudge.

France: Bourjois Record Liner

Waterproof is said to provide 48-hour
wear without running or smudging
during the day.

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Mascara brands innovate for lash growth

Mascara brands have, in the last 12 months, continued to innovate heavily around applicators and
formulations as they look to add volume and length to lashes. Mascara has high penetration in most major
markets, with usage higher than any other make-up item in the UK and the US, while 60% of Chinese and
63% of Brazilian consumers use it. The product is quick and easy to apply and offers instant
enhancement. However, consumers have shown interest in products that offer more varied and tailored
lash effects. More than a quarter of French consumers are interested in, and would pay more for,
innovations in mascara wands, a figure that falls slightly to 24% in Germany and 21% in Italy and Spain.
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Applicators promise longer and fuller lashes

US: NYC New York Color Big Bold Volume

by the Lash Mascara features an
individualizer brush designed to catch each
lash, giving 12 times more volume.

Turkey: Avon Mega Effects Mascara

features a revolutionary Wonderbrush
that is said to adjust to multiple angles,
capturing every lash, top to bottom.

UK: Max Factor False Lash Effect Full

Lashes, Natural Look Mascara offers the
false lash effect's biggest brush ever,
providing double lash size.

Spain: L'Oral Volume Million Lashes Noir

Excess Black Mascara has a Millioniser brush
with bristles to separate lashes, a wiper to
remove formula and an applicator to coat.

Canada: L'Oral Voluminous Butterfly

Mascara features a breakthrough
asymmetrical wing tip brush to lengthen,
stretch, volumise and catch every lash.

UK: Barry M Lash Vegas Waterproof

Mascara has a spiral-shaped brush that
has been designed to separate, define
and reach the smallest of lashes.

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without clumping

Germany: P2 Clump Breaker Mascara

has an innovative curved brush for even
application without clumping

Denmark: Max Factor Clump Defy

Mascara maintains separation and
definition, with no clumping.

Switzerland: CoverGirl Lash Blast

Clump Crusher Water Resistant Mascara
has an innovative curved brush for
200% volume with no clumps.

New Zealand: L'Oral Volume Million

Lashes Excess Mascara features an anticlump wiper to remove surplus mascara.

Belgium: Maybelline Volum' Express

The Colossal Go Extreme Mascara has a
non-clumping formula infused with
collagen.

Australia: Rimmel Scandaleyes Rockin'

Curves Mascara is made with a broken
heart-shaped brush to curve to the lash
line without any clumps.

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Dual-ended mascaras offer total coverage

Brands have also stepped up their development of dual-ended mascaras, with launches rising 131% in
2013. These products often claim to offer 360-degree coverage, with a larger brush at one end for wide
lashes and a mini sculpting brush at the other for smaller lashes.

Mexico: Oriflame Beauty Lash Explosion

Mascara is a dual-ended mascara. The first
coat gives stunning length and the second
offers extreme volume.

Japan: Bobbi Brown Caviar & Oyster

Mascara Duo contains an Everything Mascara
to lengthen and thicken lashes and a Lash
Glamour Lengthening Mascara.

Singapore: Etude House Dual Show

Volume Mascara has a double coating
brush designed for the upper eye lashes
and a mini brush for lower lashes.

US: CoverGirl Bombshell by LashBlast

Volume Mascara is a dual-ended
mascara that offers big, sexy bombshell
lashes.

Singapore: Innisfree Skinny & Jumbo

Dualcara is a dual-ended mascara that
features a 2.5mm slim skinny brush and
an extreme volume jumbo brush.

Czech Republic: Maybelline Volum'

Express Big Eyes Mascara has a push-up
brush for wide-eyed lashes, and a mini
brush to magnify small lashes.

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Adjustable wands allow consumers to customise looks

France: Bourjois Twist Up The
Volume

Canada: Pr Double Ego 2-in-1

Dual Action Mascara

Bourjois has taken a particularly unique approach to

applicator innovation with the launch of its Twist Up
Volume mascara. The 2-in-1 product has a switch that
allows consumers to change the length of the bristles
depending on the look they want. This allows it to be both
a volumising and a thickening brush.

This approach has also been adopted by Pr with its

Double Ego 2-in-1 Dual Action Mascara, launched in
late 2013. The product has an adjustable wand that
lets the user dial up the amount of volume and length
with a simple twist of the barrel.

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Revlon Lash Potion promises extra volume and length

Cosmetic brands have also looked to add volume and

length to lashes through the use of specific
ingredients. Revlon, for example, has launched the
Lash Potion Grow Luscious Volume & Length
Mascara, featuring a combination of strengthening
proteins, amino acids and essential vitamins for
extra volume and length.
The product is said to magically transform lashes to
lush, long and lustrous. It was first launched in the
US and Canada in mid-2013, but has since been
extended to both Europe and Asia. Some brands have
gone even further, positioning their products as hairgrowing supplements. Xtreme Lashes, for example,
recently launched a supplement regimen designed to
be consumed in conjunction with its topical eyelash
serum to promote eyelash and eyebrow growth.
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Mascara brands promise growth formulations

UK: DreamWeave LashConstruct Magnet

Mascara features technology designed to
thicken and nourish the lashes at the
roots and stem, in 15 days.

India: Maybelline Volum' Express The

Falsies Waterproof Mascara has a kerafiber formula said to instantly build five
times more volume without clumping.

New Zealand: Rimmel Scandaleyes

Lycra Flex Mascara features a Lycra
technology-enhanced formula for
'scandalous' volume.

Australia: Rimmel Lash Accelerator

Endless Mascara has been infused with a
Grow-Lash Complex, made with Procapil,
keratin and antioxidants.

Canada: Marcelle XTension Plus +

Prolash Growth Complex Mascara
contains a fortifying, lengthening and
curling formula.

Canada: Gosh Growth Mascara is

enriched with SymPeptide, an active
ingredient designed to lengthen and
thicken lashes.

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Spotlight on the Middle East and Africa

South Africa: Woolworths
Wink About It

South Africa: Browtician

Brow Perfection

Ethical animal claims have also grown in

the region in recent years. Woolworths
Wink About It Liquid Eyeliner, for
example, is approved by Beauty Without
Cruelty, and is free from harsh
ingredients and approved by a
toxicologist.

Browtician has launched a Brow

Perfection Stencils and Guides Set, which
claims to make creating perfect brows
simple. The set has four stencil shapes to
allow the user the shape that best suits
their facial features.

The South African colour

cosmetics market was worth
$141 million in 2013, a decline
of 5.5% year-on-year. Eye
products accounted for 21% of
value sales in 2012, down
marginally from 22% in 2011.
In the wider Middle East and
Africa, eye products accounted
for 21% of innovation in the 12
months to March 2014.
Brightening/illuminating claims
have risen significantly
throughout the region in recent
years, now appearing on a
third of all launches.

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Mintel Futures
MINTEL FUTURES ARE A SERIES OF META-TRENDS THAT WE BELIEVE
WILL IMPACT CONSUMERS AROUND THE WORLD OVER THE NEXT
DECADE. THEY OFFER HUGE OPPORTUNITIES FOR COMPANIES AND
BRANDS AS THEY PLAY OUT ACROSS MUTIPLE MARKETS AND SECTORS.

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Old Gold
Consumers growing longevity has created a commercial opportunity, with the elderly
identified as the key consumer demographic of the future. Longer working lives will lead to
a new gold rush of purchasing power and product needs as active, engaged seniors look for
products that can keep them looking younger and feeling competitive.
Products targeted at older consumers are less common in the eye cosmetics market than in
other segments, such as lip and face colour. However, anti-ageing benefits are beginning to
appear on some new launches as consumers look to hold off the signs of ageing.

MEN ARE LIVING 11 AND WOMEN 12 YEARS

LONGER THAN FORTY YEARS AGO*

IN

2015

EUROPE WILL HAVE

TWICE AS MANY
France: Avon has developed the Anew range
of luxurious make-up that makes the user
appear younger. All products are said to have
anti-ageing benefits, including the Smoothing
Eye
22Liner above, which contains retinol,
known to minimise the look of wrinkles.

55-74 YEAR OLDS AS 15-24s

*SOURCE: GLOBAL FIGURES RELEASED BY THE GLOBAL BURDEN OF
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DISEASE STUDY 2010; THE LANCET 2012

East meets West

Mintel predicts that Asias growing sphere of cultural and commercial influence will
increasingly blur the lines between East and West in the coming years. This will create
opportunities for Eastern-inspired innovation in the West as consumers become more
familiar with Asian products, services and lifestyles.

UK: Western markets have, in the last few years, welcomed

a number of eye colour cosmetics inspired by Asian culture
or fashion. The Japonesque brand has led these efforts in the
UK with a range of products inspired by the professional
make-up tools used in Kabuki theatre in Japan. The range
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includes
the Demi Flair Lashes above, as well as an eye
shadow and an eye defining pencil.

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Generation Next
Todays teens are growing up in an era of economic hardship and strict state regulations. While
their urge to rebel is as strong as their predecessors, this is a conservative rebellion, with teens
more health conscious and informed than ever before.

Tweens have also become an important demographic for cosmetic brands as the average age of
puberty has declined over the last few decades. Celebrities are particularly important to this
generation, as the growing desire for fame creates pressure for consumers to look good in the
eyes of others at an earlier age.

44%

of US 12-17s want to be famous.

20% and 21%

UK: Many cosmetic manufacturers have used
celebrity endorsements to sell products to pre-teens.
For example, Collection has partnered with the X
Factor winners Little Mix to create a make-up range
said to represent each girl's individual style, allowing
fans to recreate their signature looks. This includes a
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Dazzle Me Eyeshadow and a Full On Mascara.

Proportions of 10-12 year olds in developed

countries who aspire to be a professional
athletes or artists/actors/singers/designers.
Source: Marketing to Teens US 2012; Children's Christian Fund

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Access Anything, Anywhere

Smartphones and tablets are changing the way we communicate and live. These devices
are becoming remote controls for our lives, helping us access things we want to buy,
control things we already own and analyze things we want to understand. Manufacturers
are adapting to a society that relies on technology for every capacity of life.

20%
OF US MAKE-UP USERS HAVE TRIED ONLINE
TUTORIALS

4.1 million
Eye colour cosmetic brands are, like the rest of the
beauty industry, partnering with online bloggers and
YouTube stars as they look to benefit from a lucrative
new channel. L'Oral, for example, has created the
cosmetics brand EM with Michelle Phan. The range
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includes
a Lash Gallery Dramatic Volume Mascara,
launched in the US as an online-only product in 2013.

NUMBER OF SUBSCRIBERS TO MICHELLE

PHANS YOUTUBE CHANNEL
SOURCE: MINTEL COLOUR COSMETICS US JULY 2013

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What does it mean?

Long lasting eye colour cosmetics have appeal in both the
developed and developing world, with increasingly busy
women looking for products that do not require
reapplication. Brands should even be looking beyond the
eight and 12-hour claims that have traditionally defined
the industry, as 24-hour and 48-hour cosmetics are
launched in growing numbers.
Mascara brands should continue to innovate around
applicator wands and growth formulations designed for
longer and fuller lashes since consumers are increasingly
looking for products that offer a false eyelash effect. In
the UK, for example, 75% of women are interested in
such innovations.
Supplements that promise eyebrow and eye lash growth
and regeneration also have significant potential, with
Xtreme Lashes one of a number of brands experimenting
in this area. Such regimes, used in conjunction with
conventional eye colour cosmetic products, will appeal to
older women or those that have lost their hair through
chemotherapy, alopecia or over-plucking.
The elderly will be the key consumer demographic of the
next decade. Eye colour cosmetics specifically targeted at
this age group are rare, suggesting an opportunity for
products with added anti-ageing aesthetic and functional
benefits.

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Key issues impacting innovation on a regional level

Europe

Asia Pacific

Time/speed claims surge as consumers

demand convenience
Waterproof eye colour cosmetics grow
Eyeliner gel innovation rises

Vitamin/mineral cosmetics grow as brands

embrace functionality
Consumers look to enhance the tear bag

North America

Eye colour kits have potential

Seasonality drives eye colour innovations

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Latin America

Ethical claims are strong in Latin America

Domestic brands embrace local botanical
ingredients

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EUROPE
Market overview
Key issue: Waterproof eye cosmetics launches grow
Key issue: Eyeliner gel innovation rises by 51% in 2013/2014

Product spotlight
What does it mean?

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Executive Summary
Markets

Key issues

What does it mean?

Eye colour cosmetics have the most

prominent role in the French colour
cosmetics market, accounting for 40%
of total sales. The actual value of the
market is, however, highest in the UK
and Germany, with sales reaching
beyond 500 million in both markets.

Long lasting and

brightening/illuminating claims
continue to dominate in Europe,
although waterproof products have
also grown strongly over the last few
years.

Most consumers still prefer the

convenience of lash-lengthening
mascaras over false eyelashes.
However, lightweight, natural and
reusable false lashes could increase
their usage by dispelling concerns
about their cost and artificial
appearance.

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million US$

Market overview: Colour cosmetics value sales, top six markets

Europes leading colour cosmetics market is the UK, with value sales of $2.26 billion in 2012, rising to a
forecast $2.28 billion in 2013. Germany is the second largest market, with sales projected to reach
$1.93 billion in 2013, following a brief decline in 2012. The Italian market ranks ahead of Russia, which
has seen sales growth stabilise over the last few years. The Spanish market, meanwhile, continues to
suffer due to difficult economic conditions.

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Market overview: Colour cosmetics, spend per capita and CAGR, 2012
Key Opportunity Markets

Turkey is the fastest growing colour cosmetics market

in Europe, with a CAGR of 14.8% since 2007.
However, the mature markets of the UK and Denmark
are also growing healthily, with significantly more
established spend per capita.

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Slowing Markets

Spain has suffered from a strong focus on pricing, as high

levels of unemployment and poor economic growth
hamper spending. The market has subsequently recorded
an average decline of 3.7% in the last five years.

LOW GROWTH
HIGH SPEND

HIGH GROWTH
HIGH SPEND

LOW GROWTH
LOW SPEND

HIGH GROWTH
LOW SPEND

Source: Mintel

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Market overview: Eye colour cosmetic value share, 2011

Eye colour cosmetics have the most prominent role in the French colour cosmetics market, accounting
for 40% of total sales. The segment is also strong in Germany, where it accounts for 38% of sales, while
it struggles behind the more dominant face colour market in Italy. The value of the market is highest in
the UK and Germany, with sales surpassing 500 million.

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Nail colour innovation outpaces eye colour

Eye colour cosmetics accounted for a quarter of total colour cosmetics innovation in Europe in the 12
months to March 2014. This figure has declined since 2010/2011 as nail cosmetic development has
surged, although NPD stabilised in 2013/2014. Extremely high usage of eye colour cosmetics in all
major European markets suggests that the segment is currently being under-served by innovation,
though the prominent position of both lip and nail cosmetics in NPD reflects the wider variety of shades
available.
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Eye colour cosmetic usage, by product type

7%
4%
3%
3%
1%

False eye lashes

UK

Spain

Italy

Germany

France

23%
14%
23%
18%
19%

Eyebrow definer

55%
Eye liner

44%
39%

63%

55%
60%
63%
64%
52%
56%

Eye shadow

56%

Mascara
0%

10%

20%

30%

40%

50%

60%

72%
71%
67%
71%
70%

80%

Mascara is the most widely used eye colour cosmetic in the Big 5 European markets, excluding Spain,
where eye shadow and eye liner usage is higher. Regular usage of eye make-up tends to drop off with
age, as women get older and exit the workforce. False eye lashes, meanwhile, are a burgeoning segment
in the UK, where younger consumers are looking to replicate the styles of celebrities.
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Waterproof eye cosmetics grow

Long-lasting and brightening/illuminating claims continue to dominate the European region, appearing
on 50% and 39% of launches respectively in the 12 months to March 2014. However, waterproof
products have been one of the fastest emerging trends over the last few years, with the claim appearing
on 14% of launches in 2013/2014, up from just 6% in 2010/2011. This is primarily used to accompany
a long-lasting claim, highlighting the technology used to keep products, such as mascara, in place.
However, there remains potential for manufacturers to make a deeper emotional connection with such
innovations by positioning them as tear-proof. Waterproof mascara, in particular, is often associated with
emotional events, such as weddings or relationship break-ups, offering brands the opportunity to move
products away from a purely functional positioning.
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Boots and Misslyn Terra Africa promise tear-proof cosmetics

UK: Boots No7 Stay Perfect

Germany: Misslyn Terra Africa

Some brands have already made this emotional

connection, though none have made it a central selling
point. The UK health and beauty retailer Boots has, for
example, launched a Long-Lasting Mascara as part of its
No7 Stay Perfect range. The product is said to last all
through the day and be tear-proof.

ICB Innovative Cosmetics Brands Misslyn Terra Africa is

the only other brand to explicitly refer to a tear-proof
formulation on-pack in the last 12 months, with its
Fabulous Lashes Mascara Waterproof. The product has a
long wearing formula and is said to be water, sweat and
tear-proof.

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Most waterproof mascaras target sports or holidays

France: Gosh Waterproof Volume Mascara

keeps eyes looking smudge-free all day
thanks to its waterproof formula and is
suitable for sports and swimming.

Sweden: Max Factor Excess Intensity

Longwear Eyeliner is described as a
smudge and waterproof product.

Belgium: Bourjois Volume Glamour Max

Holidays Mascara has a waterproof
formula for 24-hour wear.

Spain: Sephora Le Waterproof Extreme

Resistance Mascara is designed to
handle extreme conditions.

Russia: Catrice Waterproof Top Coat is

said to make any mascara waterproof
without clumping.

Norway: IsaDora Poolside Lash Color

Waterproof Mascara is said to defy hot
weather, pool or sea water, and
humidity.

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Eyeliner gel innovation rises by 51% in 2013/2014

The development of gel eyeliner has grown in Europe over the last few years. In the 12 months to March
2014, introductions increased by 51% year-on-year and by 218% since 2010/2011. The format has
become popular by providing a softer finish than liquid liners, while also promising easier application and
the same precision. Few eyeliner gels have so far been targeted at elderly consumers, despite the fact
that this demographic is the most likely to be attracted to its ease of use claims as dexterity and skin
firmness typically declines with age.
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Eyeliner gels promote easy application

France: M.A.C A Fantasy of Flowers

Fluidline Eye-Liner Gel is designed to
provide the precision of a liquid liner
with a silkier, softer finish.

Sweden: IsaDora Color Chock Gel

Eyeliner is described as a soft and
creamy liner that allows easy
application.

Russia: L'Oral Super Liner Gel Intenza

is said to glide on easily for a dramatic
and intense look.

Germany: DM Alverde Naturkosmetik

Gel Eyeliner combines the look of a
liquid liner with the easy application and
comfort of a gel.

Spain: Oriflame Beauty Studio Artist Gel

Eye Liner offers the precision of a liquid
liner in a gel formula.

UK: NYX Naughty vs Nice Gel Liner &

Smudger is said to be as accurate as a
liquid liner, but with an ultra-smooth,
blendable and non-creasing gel formula.

39

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Transformer eye cosmetics change texture

Transformer products, which either change their appearance on application or have a slightly
different finish on the face, have also emerged in the eye colour cosmetics segment in Europe
over the last few years. Most transform from cream-to-powder or gel-to-powder textures and
appeal to consumers looking for cosmetics that give professional results.

France: Bourjois Color Edition 24H

Cream to Powder Eyeshadow is said to
feature an innovative new-generation
cream-powder texture, which
transforms upon contact with skin to
become smooth for blending.

40

Germany: Artdeco Glam Couture Shine

Couture Eyeshadow has a smooth
texture that is said to transform into a
soft, creamy powder when applied to the
skin.

Italy: Collistar Twist Ultra-Shiny Eye

Shadow is described as a real hi-tech
break-through, combining the silky
finish of a powder with the comfort and
smoothness of a cream.

mintel.com

False lashes offer value growth opportunity

A growing number of consumers, particularly in the UK, are turning to false lashes to keep up with
fashion trends. Development of false lashes rose by 22% year-on-year in the 12 months to March
2014, but remain an extremely niche part of the total category. Recent introductions have focused on
lighter, natural, reusable lashes as brands look to dispel concerns around the cost and artificial
appearance of such products.

France: Nocib Natural False Lashes are

marketed as natural and retail in a pack
containing a single pair.

41

UK: Lila'lli False Lashes are made with

light fibres and are claimed to blend
'perfectly' with natural lashes. The
lashes can be layered and reused and
are described as multifunctional.

UK: Bourjois Flared Volume False Lashes

are handmade, reusable lashes that are
said to be lightweight and easy to apply.
The brand also retails Natural Corner
Lash False Lashes, designed to open up
the eyes.

mintel.com

Product Spotlight:

Brands add tools to ease application

Russia: Sephora Smart

Liner

UK: Bourjois Erasable

Liner

France: Bourjois
Volume Seduction
Mascara

The product is said to feature an

innovative and ergonomic design
that enables a super-easy application
and a mistake-proof, high-precision
line whether right or left handed,
beginner or expert.

The precision liner in an intense black

formula features a built-in eraser for
retouching any mistakes on the go
with no smudges.

The mascara retails with a lash

accessory that is designed to be placed
on the eyelid when applying, inspired by
professional make-up artists' techniques.
The product is said to produce 10 times
more 'breathtaking' lash volume.

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Product Spotlight:

New and interesting launches

Germany: M.A.C Pro Longwear

Baking Beauties

France: Bo.Ho Green Revolution

Green Liner

Make-Up Art Cosmetics has developed the M.A.C Pro

Longwear Baking Beauties range, which is said to be
inspired by the most couture of cakes. Available as part
of the collection is the Pro Longwear Paint Pot in the
shades Fancy Frosting, Mooncake, clair, Let's Skate and
Dangerous Cuve.

Bo.Ho Green Revolution is one of a number of brands

adopting an ethical or environmental position in the European
eye cosmetics market. In the 12 months to March 2014, 17%
of launches carried one of these claims, though most are
related to animal testing. Boho Green has taken a more
general approach, donating 1% of its profits to protect plants.

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What does it mean?

Most waterproof eye cosmetics are currently targeted

for use when swimming, exercising or on holiday.
Manufacturers have the opportunity to make such
products more emotionally-focused as consumers
associate waterproof mascara with tear-filled occasions,
such as weddings.
Most consumers still prefer the convenience of lashlengthening mascaras over false eyelashes. However,
lightweight, natural and reusable false lashes could
increase their usage by dispelling concerns about the
cost and artificial appearance of products.
Eyeliner gels will continue to appeal to consumers as a
softer, more convenient alternative to liquid formats.
Older consumers could, however, be better targeted as
they are most attracted to products that ease
application as their dexterity and skin firmness
declines.
Developing additional accessories that can enable
consumers to achieve a professional look, such as
erasers and moulds, will interest consumers who are
looking for tools that can help them better navigate the
eye category.

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ASIA
PACIFIC
Market overview
Key issue: Time/speed claims surge as consumers demand convenience
Key issue: Vitamin/mineral cosmetics grow as brands embrace functionality

Key issue: Consumers look to enhance the tear bag

Product spotlight
What does it mean?

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Executive Summary
Markets

Eye colour cosmetics account for the

largest share of the total colour
cosmetics market in South Korea. It
also has a strong position in Australia,
but has less influence in Japan and
China, where face colour cosmetics
dominate, while it lags both lip and
nail sales in India.

46

Key issues

What does it mean?

Convenience has become increasingly

important in the Asia Pacific cosmetics
market as busy, working women look
for products that can be applied
professionally in less time.

Fortifying eye colour cosmetics with

vitamins and minerals can move
products beyond a sole focus on
appearance by promoting skincare
benefits. This is likely to appeal to the
vast number of consumers in the
region looking for multifunctional
make-up.

mintel.com

Market overview: Colour cosmetics, spend per capita and CAGR, 2012
Key Opportunity Markets

Vietnam, India and Indonesia all offer

potential, given the wider economic growth in
these emerging economies and the strong
annual value gains in their colour cosmetic
markets.

LOW GROWTH
HIGH SPEND

LOW GROWTH
LOW SPEND

47

Other Markets

The developed markets of Australia and South

Korea are also enjoying healthy annual value
growth. The size of the Chinese market and
the relatively low spend per capita also
suggests further potential.

HIGH GROWTH
HIGH SPEND

HIGH GROWTH
LOW SPEND

Source: Mintel

mintel.com

Market overview: Colour cosmetic sales, by segment share, 2012

Eye colour cosmetics account for the largest share of the total colour cosmetics market in South Korea,
where it was responsible for 31% of sales in 2012 at KRW653 billion. It also has a strong position in
Australia, where it accounted for 29% of total sales in the same period at AU$281 million. The segment
has less influence in both Japan and China, where face colour cosmetics dominate, while it lags behind
both lip and nail sales in India.

mintel.com

Eye colour cosmetic innovation steadily declines

35%

30%

32%

31%
31%

31%

31%

28%
25%
23%
20%

26%

25%

21%

21%

21%
19%

17%
15%
13%

12%
10%

5%

0%

4%
0.2%
March 2010 - 2011

Lip Colour

4%

4%

0.4%

0.3%

March 2011 - 2012

Eye Colour

Face Colour

4%

March 2012 - 2013

Nail Colour

Multi-Use

0.2%
March 2013 - 2014

Body Colour

Eye colour cosmetic innovation has declined as a percentage of total colour cosmetic NPD over the last
four years and now accounts for 21%, down from 31% in 2010/2011. Actual product numbers, however,
continued to increase throughout the review period, until a significant decline in the 12 months to March
2014. This proportional decline is attributed to a substantial increase in nail colour cosmetics over the last
four years, rising from just 12% of total innovation to 26% in 2013/2014.

mintel.com

Eye shadow dominates, but eye liner NPD increases

Eye shadow continues to dominate eye colour cosmetics innovation in Asia Pacific, though its proportional
importance has declined over the last four years. At the same time, launches of eye liner have grown
substantially from 23% of the total in 2010/2011 to 30% in the 12 months to March 2014. Development
of eye lash and eye brow cosmetics has, meanwhile, remained steady over the period.

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Time/speed claims surge as consumers demand convenience

Convenience has become increasingly important in Asia Pacific as busy, working women look for
products that can be applied professionally in less time. This has led to a growth in time/speed claims
over the last four years, appearing on 17% of eye colour cosmetic innovations in the 12 months to
March 2014, up from just 7% in 2010/2011. Quick-drying cosmetics have been a particular feature of
the region, while brands have also looked to highlight speed and ease of application.

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Quick-dry eye cosmetics save time

Japan: Kos Fasio Quick Dry Gel Liner

claims to dry instantly and maintain a
fresh, glowing finish all day long.

Malaysia: IN2IT Waterproof Gel Liner is

designed to offer a smooth and creamy
texture that dries in 60 seconds.

Singapore: Solone Alice in Wonderland

Perfect Drawing Eyeliner is claimed to
dry in just 10 seconds with a waterproof
and oil-resistant formulation.

Japan: Clinique Quickliner For Eyes

Intense is said to set perfectly after 60
seconds to last for up to 12 hours.

Singapore: Sana Super Quick Matt

Liquid Eyeliner offers an ultra-fast drying
film with no blotting.

Thailand: CheekRoom Eye Liner is said

to feature Speed Dry technology.

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while other brands highlight speed of application

Thailand: Clinique All About Shadow

Duo Eye Shadow is said to take seconds
to apply easily in a single smooth stroke.

Malaysia: Maybelline EyeStudio Lasting

Drama Gel Liner is said to offer an easy
instant impact with just one stroke,
lasting for 36 hours.

Japan: Yves Saint Laurent Baby Doll

Parisian Nite Eyeliner has a formula that
is designed to define the eyes in just
one stroke.

Australia: Rimmel Scandaleyes Eye

Shadow Stick claims that it can be
applied in a flash for a dramatic look in
just one stroke.

Thailand: Utip Waterproof Eyebrow

Mascara is described as a short cut for
'perfect and beautiful' eyebrows.

Taiwan: Bb Posh Lash Generation

Brilliant Length Waterproof Mascara is
said to provide 'perfection' eyes
instantly.

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Vitamin/mineral cosmetics grow as brands embrace functionality

Eye colour cosmetics with added vitamins and minerals have been an emerging trend in Asia Pacific over
the last few years. In the 12 months to March 2014, 10% of category launches had a vitamin/mineral
claim, up from just 4% in 2010/2011. This reflects wider interest in make-up with multi purpose
benefits. In China, for example, almost half of users in the category are interested in trying products
with multi purpose benefits, while just 29% believe multi purpose products do not perform as well as
those designed for a single purpose. Eye colour cosmetics enriched with vitamins and minerals typically
promise to moisturise, nourish and protect, with the vast majority launched in the eye shadow or
mascara segments.
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Vitamin/mineral fortified launches in 2013/2014

Indonesia: Rivera Eye Shadow contains

mineral powder and vitamin E to keep
the skin moist and soft.

Singapore: Maybelline The Colossal

Kajal contains five caring ingredients to
soothe the eyes: olive oil esters,
emollient butter and vitamisn E and C.

Thailand: Gino McCray Pink Passion

Diamond Forever Eye Liner contains vitamin
E and vitamin C to strengthen lashes, while
reviving and replenishing moisture.

Japan: Agns b. Ultracils Mascara is

enriched with ceramide R and pro-vitamin
B5 to protect lashes and moisturising
arginine to keep lashes healthy.

Indonesia: Mentholatum Face on Face

Nourishing Eye Shadow is enriched with
hyaluronic acid for skin hydration and
antioxidant vitamin E for skin nutrition

India: Rimmel Sexy Curves Full Figure

Extra Volume & Shapely Curve Mascara
contains vitamins B and E to nourish
lashes.

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mintel.com

Consumers look to enhance the tear bag

Cosmetic brands in some Asian markets are developing products that allow consumers to enhance the
tear bag, an area located directly under the lash line. The tear bag is believed to reflect the sweetness
and innocence of youth and is referred to as the sleeping silkworm in China and the Aegyo sal in Korea.
Cosmetic procedures that emphasise this area of the eye to make it look wider and more open have
become popular in many markets, as have double-ended pencils that highlight and shadow to create the
illusion of a plumper tear bag.
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Innovations that target the tear bag

South Korea: Etude
House Dear Girls Cute
Eyes Maker

Japan: Kos Vise Tear

Drop liner

South Korea: Lollynne

Tear Drop Liner

tudes Cute Eyes Maker is designed to

create 'tear bags' with two easy steps.
The powder, which contains evening
primrose oil and shea butter, is said to
keep the eye bag area moisturised

The Tear Drop Liner is designed to be

applied under the eyelid, emphasising
the plumpness of the under eye,
leaving eyes looking bigger and sexy
with a smaller-looking face.

Commerce Planets Lollynne brand

launched a Tear Drop Liner, which is
formulated with crystal and opal pearls
to provide eyes with lasting glitter and
shine, for a tear drop effect.

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Other eye cosmetics promise to make eyes look bigger

The desire for bigger, rounder eyes has also led to the development of eye shadows
that promise to achieve these results through careful application of different colours.
Such innovations have been mainly found in Japan, where they offer a cost-effective
alternative to the expensive cosmetic procedures popular in the country.

Japan: Aube Couture Designing

Impressions Eyes II is said to be
designed for single-edged eyelids or
eyelids with a hidden fold to make eyes
look rounder and bigger.

58

Japan: Shiseidos Integrate brand has

developed a Sweet Trick Eyes Palette,
which contains three colours designed to
easily create dewy, bigger-looking eyes
for a cute complexion.

Japan: MAQuillAGE True Eyeshadow is

designed to make eyes look 110%
bigger naturally just by layering colours
in order. The palette contains five
colours, all with a different function.

mintel.com

Product Spotlight: Multinationals adapt applicators for Asian eyes

Japan: Este Lauder Double Wear Extreme

Zero-Smudge All Effects Mascara has a short
brush developed for the shape of Asian eyes
to catch the shortest eye lashes.

Malaysia: Maybelline Lashionista

Mascara has a Just Fit Brush developed
specially for Asian eyes.

Vietnam: Lacvert Essance Extreme Long

& Curl Mascara has a brush designed for
Asian women to coat eyelashes effectively
from beginning to end.

Japan: L'Oral Curl Impact Collagene

Curl-Fixing Volume Mascara has a spiral
curl brush specially designed for
Japanese eyelashes.

Japan: Maybelline Volum' Express The

Rocket Mascara comes with an original
brush developed for Asian women.

Japan: Kos Fasio Smart Curl Mascara

C comes with a special brush designed
for the curve of Japanese eyes to lift up
the lashes.

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mintel.com

Product Spotlight:

New and interesting launches

Japan: Vegeboy Eyebrow Pencil

Japan: Isehan Meganecco Long

Mascara for glasses

Vegeboy is one of a number of Asian brands that have

launched cosmetic ranges targeted at men. Male demand
for make-up is rising throughout the region, particularly in
Japan and Korea. Many mens daily regimens now include
pencilling the eyebrows for a bolder, defined look,
suggesting potential for similar eyebrow pencils.

Isehan has developed a new make-up range specifically for

women who wear glasses. The Meganecco brand includes
the Long Mascara, which claims to extend lash length by
up to 122% and keep lashes lifted towards outer corners
to avoid them touching glasses

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mintel.com

What does it mean?

Convenient eye colour cosmetics that are easy and

quick to apply will be popular in a region experiencing
growing incomes, but also the time constraints that
have come to define developed markets in Europe
and North America.
Fortifying eye colour cosmetics with vitamins and
minerals can move products beyond a sole focus on
appearance by promoting skincare benefits. This is
likely to appeal to the vast number of consumers in
the region looking for multifunctional make-up.

The development of eye cosmetic products that can

enhance the tear bag has significant potential in
Korea, Japan and China, where cultural traditions
prize plump lash lines.

Male demand for make-up is rising throughout Asia

Pacific, particularly in Japan and Korea. In the eye
colour cosmetics segment, there is an opportunity to
target men with subtle eyebrow pencils and mascaras
that promise improvement rather than enhancement.

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NORTH
AMERICA
Market overview
Key issue: Eye colour kits have potential
Key issue: Seasonality drives innovation
Product spotlight
What does it mean?

62

mintel.com

Executive summary
Market overview

Key issues

What does it mean?

Eye products account for the largest

value share of the Canadian colour
cosmetics market, with sales reaching
CA$507 million in 2012, or 37% of the
CA$1.35 billion total. The segment
has a slightly less significant share in
the US, at 31%, but value sales are
considerably higher at $3.29 billion.

Seasonality is an important driver of

purchases in the cosmetics category,
so brands must regularly update their
collections to represent the latest
fashions. Floral tones are most
popular in the warmer months, while
metallic shades drive developments in
winter.

Almays introduction of a cosmetic

range designed for specific eye
colours suggests that customised
products that can take some of the
guesswork out of choosing make-up
will be popular among a consumer
base overwhelmed by choice.

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mintel.com

million US$

Market overview: Colour cosmetics value sales

The US is the worlds largest colour cosmetics market, with value sales forecast to reach $10.8 billion in
2013. The market has experienced growth over the last four years, but this has been somewhat restricted
by tough economic conditions and a highly crowded category. The Canadian market is significantly less
valuable, with sales projected to reach $1.38 billion in 2013.

mintel.com

Market overview: Colour cosmetics, spend per capita and CAGR, 2012
Canada
Spend per capita on colour cosmetics is
higher in Canada at $38.96. The market has
also enjoyed stronger growth than the US,
averaging 5.4% over the last five years.

US
The US market has endured slower growth,
which is understandable given that Canadas
economy came out of recession significantly
quicker.

Source: Mintel

mintel.com

Market overview: Colour cosmetic sales, by segment share, 2012

Eye products account for the largest value share of the Canadian colour cosmetics market, with sales
reaching CA$507 million in 2012, or 37% of the CA$1.35 billion total. The segment has a slightly less
significant share in the US, at 31%, but value sales are considerably higher at $3.29 billion in the same
period.

mintel.com

Market overview: Eye shadow still leads, but eye liner NPD rises

Eye shadow continues to account for the majority of product development in the North American eye
colour cosmetic category, responsible for 52% of launches in the 12 months to March 2014. This figure
has, however, declined from 61% in 2012/2013 as the development of eye liners has grown. The eye
lash segment accounted for 14% of innovation in 2013/2014, down from 20% in 2010/2011, despite
mascara being the most regularly worn colour cosmetic in the US.

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mintel.com

Eye colour kits have potential

Eye colour cosmetic kits that offer consumers all the tools to create a certain look have strong potential in
North America. Innovation in this area increased by 24% in the 12 months to March 2014, albeit from a
small base. Consumer demand for more options does, however, exist. In fact, close to half of US
consumers have expressed interest in trying make-up kits that enable them to achieve different looks.
Such attitudes currently peak among 35 to 44-year-olds, who are time-pressed and looking for
convenient, customized and versatile make-up. Most eye colour kit innovations so far have taken a more
general positioning, rather than advocating a particular style. Interest in kits could rise if brands alter this
approach and develop fashion-themed products since younger consumers are most likely to follow the
latest make-up trends.
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mintel.com

Kit innovation takes a more general approach

Canada: Avon Perfect Eyebrow Kit

contains an eyebrow powder, eyebrow
wax and a dual-angled brush.

US: Forever 21 Premium Cosmetics

Collection Eyebrow Kit features two eye
shadows, a spoolie brush, an angled
brow brush and a mirrored pack.

Canada: Essence Eyebrow Stylist Set

contains three different eyebrow
stencils, two eyebrow shadows and one
brush.

US: Cargo Brow How Brow Defining Kit

contains two shades of powder, a colour
coordinated wax and a brow brush.

US: Christian Semi Permanent Eyebrow

Makeup Kit includes three different
eyebrow stencils, one eyebrow shadow
and a brush.

US: LIT Holographic Glitter Kit is

designed to offer a holographic look and
contains loose colour, a liquid glitter
base and a brush.

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mintel.com

Seasonality drives eye colour innovations

Seasonal innovations play an important role in North American eye colour cosmetics, with brands
frequently launching collections based on the latest fashion trends. In the 12 months to March 2014,
26% of eye colour cosmetics had a seasonal claim, up 3% year-on-year and significantly more than the
16% recorded in 2010/2011. This is higher than the global average, with only Europe having a similar
percentage. Most launches have shades developed for the season, with florals popular in spring and
summer, giving way to metallic tones in the winter. Make-Up Art Cosmetics, for example, launched the
Magnetic Nude collection for winter, with platinum, silver and alloy colours, as well as the Fantasy of
Flowers collection for spring and summer, including meadow, moss and garden shades.
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mintel.com

Floral defines spring and summer, while metallic shades rule in winter

Canada: M.A.C Mineralize A Fantasy of

Flowers Eye Shadow was launched for
spring 2014 and is said to burst with
brilliant blooms of colour.

Canada: Artdeco Love is in the Air

Eyeshadow has been launched for spring/
summer and features expressive green and
violet tones in soft, iridescent textures.

US: Laura Mercier Spring Renaissance

Crme Eye Liner has been launched for
spring 2014 and is said to celebrate a
new beginning.

Canada: M.A.C Extra Dimension Magnetic

Nude Eye Shadow was launched for winter
and claims to redefine winter opulence
through glimmering metallics.

US: Clarins Ombre Minrale Opalescence

Mineral Eyeshadow has been launched
for Spring 2014 and is available in the
shades Smoky Plum and Golden Rose.

US: M.A.C Pro Longwear Fall 2013 Paint

Pot has been launched for the autumn
and features Chrome Angel, Tailor Grey
and Clearwater shades.

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The holiday season also offers opportunities

The festive season is an important time for eye colour cosmetic brands, with manufacturers positioning
products as gifts and launching limited edition party season shades for festive social occasions.

US: Clarins The Essentials Eye Make-Up

Palette is designed to offer optimal sensory
pleasure for a festive look.

US: Cranky Girlz Eye Glaze Eyeshadow

was launched for the 2013 holiday
season and is marketed as a 'perfect'
gift by itself or for stuffing in a stocking.

US: e.l.f. Essential Holiday 2013 3 Piece

Eyeliner Set retails in a gift box
containing two liquid eyeliners and a
brightening eyeliner pencil.

US: Sephora Collection Holiday 2013 Deck

the Halls with False Lashes are designed to
add a festive statement to any look. They
are adorned with 'faux' jewels.

US: The M.A.C Mineralize Divine Night

collection was launched for holiday 2013. It
is said to capture the moment when flashing
lights illuminate a flair for limitless luxury.

US: Laura Mercier White Magic Tightline

Cake Eye Liner is made with illuminating
shades that give the user the true
holiday sparkle.

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mintel.com

Product Spotlight:

Celebrity endorsements

Major brands in North America continue to collaborate with celebrities as a way of engaging younger
consumers. This approach is understandable as the younger demographic is significantly more likely to
follow celebrity trends in the category.

US: Kat Von D Autograph Waterproof

Pencil is said to keep eyes inked and
smudge-free from dusk to dawn

US: RiRi Hearts M.A.C Holiday Superslick

Liquid Eye Liner forms part of the
brands collaboration with Rihanna.

Canada: Essence Beauty Beats

Eyeshadow was launched for Justin
Bieber's Believe tour in 2013.

US: Eylure Katy Perry Color Pop Lashes

are described as a special gift for all
eye shades.

US: Wet n Wild Fergie CenterStage

Collection On Edge Creme Eye Liner is a
collaboration between Wet n Wild and
the American singer Fergie.

Canada: M.A.C Hayley Williams Eye

Shadow - M.A.C teamed up with Hayley
Williams, singer with the platinumselling band Paramore.

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Product Spotlight:

New and interesting launches

US: Almay Intense i-Color

US: Physicians Formula Organic

Wear CC Curl + Care Mascara

Almay continues to take a distinctive position in the

competitive US eye make-up category by launching
products available in different shades depending on the
users eye colour. The Intense i-Color range is intended to
add an element of customisation and take some of the
guesswork out of colour selection.

CC creams, offering consumers both colour and skincare

for the face, have grown in popularity around the world in
recent years, building on the success of BB creams.
Physicians Formula has taken this concept into eye
cosmetics with the launch of its CC Curl + Care Mascara,
which is said to both help curl and care for lashes.

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mintel.com

What does it mean?

Eye colour cosmetic kits that offer consumers

convenient, all-in-one purchases have strong
potential among busy working women. Interest
could, however, be boosted among younger
consumers by launching more look-focused kits that
replicate a certain style.
Seasonality is an important driver of purchases in
the cosmetics category, so brands must regularly
update their collections to represent the latest
fashions. Floral tones are most popular in the
warmer months, while metallic shades drive
developments in winter.
The holiday season offers significant opportunities for
eye colour cosmetic brands, with consumers desiring
make-up for both festive events and gifts. False
lashes have particularly strong potential at this time
of year, offering consumers an easy way of
transforming their look with a festive twist.
Almay continues to work with cosmetics designed for
specific eye colours, suggesting its confidence in a
degree of customisation that can take some of the
guesswork out of choosing make-up.

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mintel.com

LATIN
AMERICA
AMERICA
Market overview
Key issue: Ethical claims are strong in Latin America
Key issue: Domestic brands embrace local botanical ingredients

Product spotlight
What does it mean?

76

mintel.com

Executive summary
Market overview

Key issues

What does it mean?

Eye products dominate the colour

cosmetic markets of both Chile and
Colombia, where they accounted for
36% and 34% of value sales
respectively in 2012. Eye colour
cosmetics also play a strong role in
Mexico, while Brazil has a more evenly
distributed colour cosmetics market.

Long lasting and ease-of-use claims

have grown steadily in the Latin
American eye colour cosmetics
category over the last few years as
increasingly busy consumers demand
convenience. However, the region also
has its own market-centric trends,
including the growth of ethical claims.

Ethical initiatives are currently being

led by multinationals. Local brands
should be doing more to highlight
their corporate social responsibility
efforts as consumers in the region
increasingly demand that companies
act morally on their behalf.

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million US$

Market overview: Colour cosmetics value sales

Brail has the largest colour cosmetics market in Latin America, valued at an estimated $1.97 billion in
2013. This has increased significantly from $1.29 billion in 2009. Mexico is the second largest market,
with sales rising from $915 million in 2009 to $1.18 billion in 2013. Colombia and Chile, meanwhile, are
valued at $355 million and $166 million respectively in 2013.

mintel.com

Market overview: Colour cosmetics, spend per capita and CAGR, 2012
Key Opportunity Markets

Brazil has achieved the highest average value

growth over the last five years. The markets
expanding middle class has driven growing interest
in colour cosmetics.

Potential Markets

Spend per capita remains comparatively low in all

other reviewed markets. Colombia offers significant
potential, however, due to healthy annual growth
in the colour cosmetics category and its rapidly
developing economy.

LOW GROWTH
HIGH SPEND

HIGH GROWTH
HIGH SPEND

LOW GROWTH
LOW SPEND

HIGH GROWTH
LOW SPEND

Source: Mintel

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Market overview: Colour cosmetic value sales, by segment share, 2012

Eye products dominate the colour cosmetic markets of both Chile and Colombia, where they accounted
for 36% and 34% of value sales respectively in 2012. Eye colour cosmetics also play a strong role in the
Mexican market, though the segment lags significantly behind face colour. The Brazilian market,
meanwhile, is more evenly distributed between segments, with eye products accounting for just a
quarter of sales.

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Market overview: Eye liners have strong influence in Latin America

Eye shadow continues to dominate eye colour cosmetics in Latin America, predominantly due to the
variety of shades developed for each launch. Eye liners, however, also have a significant influence on
NPD, accounting for a larger percentage of the total than in any other region globally at 37%.
Development of liners has also risen strongly since 2010/2011, when it accounted for just a fifth of
product launches.

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Ethics are strong in Latin America

Like elsewhere globally, long lasting and ease of use claims have grown steadily in the Latin American
eye colour cosmetics category over the last few years as increasingly busy consumers demand
convenience. However, the region also has its own market-centric trends, including the growth of ethical
claims. Products touting both ethical human and ethical animal claims have increased gradually over the
last four years, while almost 10% of launches in the 12 months to March 2014 supported a charity. This
reflects consumers' growing interest in the actions of corporations. In Brazil, for example, 94% of
consumers believe that companies must ensure their operations have a minimal impact on the
environment, while 41% check that companies are ethical before buying their products.
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Oriflame drives growth in charitable causes

Colombia: Oriflame Soft
Diffuse Powder Eye Liner

Mexico: Oriflame VeryMe

Eye Crayon

Mexico: Zan Zusi Efecto

Flash Extra Volume
Mascara

The multinational cosmetics group

Oriflame has led the development of
charitable claims in the region, promoting
the Oriflame Foundation on pack, a charity
that aims to help children and young
women through educational initiatives.

Oriflame is also keen to highlight that

its products are not tested on animals,
contain ingredients derived from
renewable plant sources, and are
produced with minimum impact on the
environment

Local brands have been slow to follow

suit. Zan Zusi Efecto Flash is one of the
few to highlight its ethical credentials in
2013, launching an Extra Volume
Mascara with an ESR logo, identifying it
as a socially responsible company.

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Brands target socially responsible consumers

Brazil: Jequiti Aviva Eye Liner Pencil has

been certified by the Forest Stewardship
Council.

Mexico: Catrice Mini Max Precision

Volume Mascara has not been tested on
animals.

Mexico: Couleur Caramel Eyebrow

Pencil has been certified by Cosmebio,
Ecocert and One Voice, and has not
been tested on animals.

Brazil: Natura Faces Ano Novo Pencil

Eyeliner is said to have been made from
plant origin renewable sources.

Mexico: Couleur Caramel Jardin

Sauvage Eyeshadow forms part of the
brands organic range that utilises
Fairtrade ingredients.

Mexico: L.A. Colors Lash Building

Mascara is described as cruelty-free.

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Domestic brands embrace local botanical ingredients

Domestic brands in Latin America have been keen to embrace botanical and herbal ingredients as they
look to enhance their natural credentials in a region where consumers are sceptical about artificial
products. In the 12 months to March 2014, 9% of eye colour cosmetics were positioned as
botanical/herbal, up 1% year-on-year. This remains slightly below the global average of 13%, but
brands are increasingly utilizing a wider variety of interesting local ingredients to enrich products with
additional benefits.
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Botanical/herbal innovations in 2013/2014

Mexico: Color Pop Eyelash Mascara is

formulated with mamey seed oil and
avocado extract.

Mexico: Im Natural Liquid Eye Liner

features camomile extract.

Colombia: sika Advanced Continuous

Strengthening Mascara contains an
active complex based on ceramides and
castor oil to strengthen the lashes.

Colombia: Vit Mascara with Ricin Oil is

said to be made with natural
ingredients.

Brazil: Natura Faces Ano Novo New

Year Pencil Eyeliner is said to be made
from plant-origin renewable sources.

Colombia: Palladio Curls Rule! Herbal

Curling Mascara is herbal and vitaminenriched and contains bamboo and rice
wax to prevent clumping.

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Product Spotlight:

Eye shadow brands outline inspiration

Brazil: O Boticrio Make B. Rio Sixties is

inspired by the 60s in Rio, with pastel
colours and new textures, and is stored in
delicate and practical packaging.

Brazil: Yes! Cosmetics Make.Up Compact

Creamy Eye Shadow is inspired by some of
the worlds most famous drinks, including
the mojito, margarita and martini.

Mexico: Mary Kay El Arte de la

Naturaleza Fluid Eye Colour is said to be
inspired by lush rainforests, vibrant coral
reefs and glowing canyons.

Mexico: Avon ColorTrend Coloured

Eyeliner is said to feature a 'wild look'
inspired by animal print.

Brazil: Panvel Meu Brasils Liquid Eyeliner

has been inspired by the upcoming World
Cup and is available in the national colours of
yellow, green and blue.

Mexico: Oriflame Giordani Gold Dreamy

Moments Eye Shadow Mono is inspired
by lazy breezy days in a beautiful villa
by Lake Como.

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What does it mean?

Ethical initiatives in the eye segment are currently

led by multinationals. Local brands should be doing
more to highlight their corporate social responsibility
efforts as consumers in the region increasingly
demand that companies act morally on their behalf.

Embracing local issues, such as environmental

degradation and the protection of the rainforests, will
give brands distinctive ethical positions that are
important to Latin American consumers.

Eye colour cosmetic brands can engage naturalseeking Latin American consumers by developing
botanical/herbal eye colour cosmetics that use local
ingredients and cater to the local climate.

Brands formulating with botanical ingredients should

do more to highlight their functional benefits, such
as strengthening and moisturising, as well as their
vitamin, mineral and antioxidant content.

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Conclusion

Long lasting eye colour cosmetics have appeal in both the

developed and developing world, with increasingly busy
women looking for products that do not require
reapplication. Brands should look beyond the eight and
12-hour claims that have traditionally defined the
industry.

Eye Colour
Cosmetics

Fortifying eye colour cosmetics with vitamins and minerals

can move products beyond a sole focus on appearance by
promoting skincare benefits. This is likely to appeal to
consumers looking for multifunctional make-up.

Cosmetics designed for specific eye colours suggest that

customised products that can take some of the guesswork
out of choosing make-up will be popular among an
overwhelmed consumer base.

Embracing local issues, such as environmental

degradation and the protection of the rainforests, will give
brands distinctive ethical positions that are important to
Latin American consumers.

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Simona Invernizzi
Global Innovation Analyst
Tel
Email
Twitter

+44 (0) 20 7606 4533

sinvernizzi@mintel.com
@mintelnews

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