Soldering in electronics

Use a soldering iron with the appropriate heat control. For soldering electrical
components into printed circuit boards, the best soldering irons are
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) safe, temperature-controlled, high-power irons.
These will let you solder for hours, and are good for complex amateur radio
projects. For simple kits, an inexpensive pencil iron will do just fine.
Use a fixed power soldering iron, 25W for small jobs, and 100W for
larger jobs with heavy cabling.
If possible, variable temperature irons are available, which will make for
the safest treatment of the boards. The tip temperature can be controlled to
suit the size of the job.
2
Use solder wire of an appropriate alloy. The most common solder alloy
used in electronics is 60% tin and 40% lead, sometimes notated as 60/40.
This alloy is recommended if you are new to soldering, though it is somewhat
hazardous, requiring proper ventilation, breathing protection, or a soldering
iron with a vacuum attachment.
Various lead-free alloys are becoming popular recently. These require
higher soldering temperatures and do not "wet" as well as Tin-Lead alloys.
However they are safer and can be more effective. 96.5 % tin to 3.5% silver is
the most successful and will produce a joint with less electrical resistance
than any tin-lead alloy.
Both lead and lead-free formulations are available online at places like
solderdirect.com and in your local Radioshack or Home Depot store.
3
Try to get flux-cored wire if possible. Flux is an additive in solder that
facilitates the soldering process by removing and preventing oxidation and by
improving the wetting characteristics of the liquid solder. There are different
types of flux cores available for solder wire.
Rosin is most commonly used by hobbyists. After soldering, it leaves a
brown, sticky residue which is non-corrosive and non-conductive, but can be

cleaned if desired with isopropyl alcohol. There are different grades of Rosin
flux, the most commonly used is "RMA" (Rosin Mildly Activated).
No-clean flux leaves a clear residue after soldering, which is noncorrosive and non-conductive. This flux is designed to be left on the solder
joint and surrounding areas.
Water-soluble flux usually has a higher activity that leaves a residue
which must be cleaned with water. The residue is corrosive and may also
damage the board or components if not cleaned correctly after use.
4
Get the necessary board and components. Mostly, electrical soldering
deals with "through-hole" components, which are pressed into printed circuit
boards (PCBs). Through-hole components have leads (wires or tabs) that pass
through a hole in the board and are soldered to the pad of metal plating
around the hole. The hole may be "plated through" or not.
Soldering other electrical items such as wires or lugs, have slightly
different techniques, but the general principles of operating the solder and
iron are the same.
5
Get a clamp to hold the components. Electrical components are usually
quite small, and you'll need tongs, needle-nosed pliers, or tweezers to hold
them in place while you operate the soldering iron and negotiate the solder. It
can be a balancing act.
Some kind of clamp or stand is usually best to hold the board in place
while you solder the components.

Part 2 of 3: Soldering the Components

Solder (Electronics) Step 1.jpg

1
Prepare the components for soldering. Select the correct component by
checking the color code carefully. Bend leads correctly, if necessary, being
careful not to exceed the stress specs, and clinch leads to fit the board.
2

Be extremely careful and solder in an appropriate location. Always solder in

a well-ventilated area, using breathing and eye protection. Make sure to prop
up the iron when it is on but not in use. Irons can start fires quite easily by
burning into your workbench.
Seven to twelve inches of space should be between the electronic
components and your face, or it may jump into your eyes. Solder may
splatter.
Solder (Electronics) Step 4.jpg
3
"Tin" the solder. Melt a small blob of solder on end of the soldering iron.
This process is called tinning and it helps to improve heat flow from the iron
to the lead and pad, keeping the board safe from the heat.
Carefully place the tip (with the blob) onto the interface of the lead and
pad. The tip or blob must touch both the lead and the pad.
The tip of the soldering iron should not be touching the nonmetallic pad
area of the PCB, or any of the fibreglass area surrounding. This area can be
damaged by excessive heat.
Solder (Electronics) Step 6.jpg
4
Feed the solder onto the interface between the pad and lead. Flux from the
solder wire is only active for about one second maximum after melting onto
the joint as it is slowly burned off by heat. The lead and pad should be heated
enough for the solder to melt not the connection point. The molten solder
should "cling" to the pad and lead together by way of surface tension. This is
commonly referred to as wetting.
If the solder does not melt onto the area, the most likely cause is
insufficient heat has been transferred to it, or the surface needs to be
cleaned of grease or dirt.
Solder (Electronics) Step 7.jpg
5
Stop feeding the solder interface is filled. No more than a drop or two of
solder should be necessary for each joint, though it will vary slightly for
different components. The correct amount of solder is determined by:
On plated-PCBs, you should stop feeding when a solid concave fillet can

be seen around the joint.

On non-plated PCBs, you want to stop feeding when the solder forms a
flat fillet.
Too much solder will form a bulbous joint with a convex shape, while too
little solder will form a concave joint.

Part 3 of 3: Soldering Well

1
Move quickly. Unfortunately, it's quite easy to damage a component or the
board with too much heat. For the most part, however, you can keep the
components and the board safe by moving swiftly. Keep a finger on the board
nearby to ensure that it doesn't get too hot.
Try to err on the side of irons that are slightly less powerful than you
think you might need. Use a 30 watt iron and practice soldering quickly so as
to avoid excessive heating.
If working with a double-sided circuit board check both sides for good
solder joints. A good joint will look shiny and cone shaped. if it looks frosty
and dull then it is a cold joint.
2
Consider using heat sinks for sensitive components. Some components
(diodes, transistors, etc.) are quite susceptible to heat damage and require a
small aluminum heat-sink clipped on to their leads on the opposite side of the
PCB. Small aluminum heat sinks can be purchased through electronics supply
houses. Hemostats (small) can also be used.
3
Learn to recognize when there is enough solder present. After a proper
application of solder, the solder will be shiny and not dull. Visible indications
are the best way to know if your solder joint is good. The solder needs to melt
with the surface of the electronic components, rather than the tip of the
soldering iron. This way, when the solder cools, it forms an alloy with the
surface of the metal.
The solder joint should coat the surface of the component evenly, not
too much such that it forms a glob, nor too little such that it does not

completely coat the surface.

4
Keep the soldering iron clean. Burnt flux, rosin from the core of the solder,
or plastic sheaths from wires may all burn onto the soldering iron. Such
contaminants prevent the formation of a clean alloy between the electronic
components. This is undesirable, because it raises the electrical resistance
and also reduces the mechanical strength of the solder joint. A clean tip is
shiny all the way around, without burnt gunk on it.
Clean the iron in between each component that you older. Use a damp
sponge or steel wool to clean it thoroughly. Tip thinner may also be used.
5
Make sure to let the solder cool completely before moving the components.
This cooling should only take five to ten seconds. If the components are too
hot to handle, use needle nose pliers, or a tool called helping hands which
consists of two alligator clips attached to a little articulated stand. If you
watch carefully, the cooling solder will settle right before your eyes.
6
Practice on junk components. It's important to practice on throwaway stuff
before you move straight to trying to solder something important. Gather
some old junk boars and burnt out components from a junked radio or other
electronic device to practice on.
Nobody is perfect, not even the professionals. Don't be ashamed to
repeat a bit of soldering work. It will save you time in troubleshooting later.