The Bocksten Tunic

THL Ginevra Brembati Vittoria418@yahoo.com

In 1932, the near perfectly preserved remands of a 14th c. man were found in a peat
bog in Sweden. Apparently the man had been murdered with three blows to the head and
his body tossed into the bog1. The lack of oxygen and anti-microbial compounds in the
bog preserved both his body and all the clothing he was wearing. (Durrani, 2006)

There is
regarding
when the
man lived.
1 -aThe Bocksten
datingFig.
gives
Mans
Tunic
range of
between 1290
(Durrani,
was found
woolen tunic,
cloak, woolen
shoes, two

debate
exactly
Bocksten
Radiocarbon
broad date
somewhere
1430ad.
2006) He
wearing a
woolen
hose, leather
leather belts
and two knives. His hood was found nearby.
(Durrani, 2006)
The clothing worn by the Bocksten man is
representative of clothing worn by men and
women across Europe from the 10th through the
15th century. The design of this garment can be cut
long for a lady or shorter for a man. For men, the
length of the cote denotes rank, with longer
showing higher status. (Thursfield, 2001)
Fig. 2 - Line drawing of the
Bocksten tunic by I. Carlson,
based on one by E. Lundwall.
Bold lines indicate selvages.

1 Some experts assert that the Bocksten man was of high social standing because of the
hood he wore. It is suggested that he may have been recruiting soldiers or was a tax
collector. (Durrani, 2006)

Rectangular construction means that the clothing is made with only rectangles and
triangles. This design is allows the fabric to be cut into a garment with almost no waste.
Rectangular construction was used almost exclusively until the 14th century and even in
the Tudor and Elizabethan era it was used for cutting underclothes.

To make this garment you will need:

Fabric prewashed and dried

Measuring tape and yard stick
Scissors
Chalk or fabric marker

Pins
Iron and ironing board
Needle and thread
A sewing machine

Measurements2:
1. Shoulder to Hem ____________ + 1 = _________________________
2. Around Chest3 (+ 5 inches) (___________/2) +1 = ________________
3. Arm length from shoulder4 __________+ 2 = ____________________
4. Armscye (arm hole) circumference5 ____________+ 3 = ___________
5. Around fist __________ +1 = _________________________________
6. Gore length (waist to hem) ________________ + 1 _______________
7. Gore width - 10 (Adjust to fit your fabric width)
8. Gusset - 4.5 sided square is good for most. (Cut two)
Neck:

A. Base of the neck from shoulder to shoulder ______/2 = ________________

(taken across the back of the neck)
B. Base of the neck from front (at collar bone) to back = ________
(along the side of the neck)
Fabric needed:
If measurement (#2 + #4) is < 45 (or 60) fabric needed:
Measurement #1 (__________x2) + 18 = ___________
(Use 60 width fabric if the number is > 45)

If measurement (#2+#4) is > 60 fabric needed:

2 Do not let the tape slack, but also do not pull the measuring tape very tight when taking
measurements.
3 Over the fullest part of the chest, arms down to the side, muscles relaxed.
4 From ball of the shoulder joint to wrist, arm held down at the side.
5 Arm held extended, measure very loosely around the arm at the armpit. If the person
has large upper arms, use the larger of the two measurements.

Measurement (#1_______x2) + (#4________x2) = ________

Fig. 3 - This diagram gives an
example of how the entire
garment can be cut from a flat
length of fabric.
*The diagram does not include
the two square shaped gussets.

The red lines and numbers

refer to the measurements
taken above. Use these points
to lay out your pieces. Use
chalk or maker and a yard
stick to draw the black lines.

The capital letters indicate the

placement of the pieces in the
construction process.

*Do not cut the slit from CF to

C or CB to B.

Cut carefully exactly on the

lines you drew.

Fig. 3 - Image credit to Thursfield, pg. 79

Also Cut two squares

with 4 long sides.

Adjusting the pattern:

For a large bust: Increase the gussets to 6 per side or larger.

If the waist is larger than the chest: Lengthen the side gores by 6 or more.
Position the gores starting higher on the rib cage.

Neck opening:

Fold

Fold your large tunic rectangle in half

(hamburger
style)
and
mark
the
shoulder/halfway point.

Unfold and refold the tunic length wise (hotdog

style).

Measure 1.5up from the shoulder/halfway

point you marked

Measure down the distance in Measurement B

At the shoulder/halfway point measure out the

distance in Measurement A

Draw a curving line to connect the three points.

o Be careful that the line makes a right
angle where is meets the fold.

Cut along the line you drew.

Try this on. It should just be just a little too

tight or just barely slip over your head.
Remember that the opening is going to enlarge
by 2 more inches before its done. If its too
tight, trim only away and try it on again.

Shoulder
point

Neck Facing:
Open your tunic piece flat. Position the neck hole you just cut over your uncut
fabric. Trace the circle.

Remove the tunic piece. Draw a second circle 3 out from the first circle.

 Cut along both lines. This is your neck facing.

Dont forget to cut two squares with 4 long sides for the gussets.

Finishing the raw edges:

1. Serger Before construction, surge every raw edge. Try not to cut off any fabric
2. Pinking shears After construction, pink all raw edges
3. Hand sewing After construction, turn under raw edges and whip stitch down.

Sew with inch seam allowance.

Always sew with right sides of fabric together!
Construction:
Step one Neck Facing

Pin and sew the inside edge of the neck facing to the tunic neck opening.

Every inch or so, clip seam allowance perpendicular to and up to the stitching
line. Turn the facing to the inside and press.

Try on the tunic body. Ensure it passes over your head. If it is too tight, repeat,
sewing the facing only out from your previous stitching. Make very small
adjustments because the circumference of the opening expands quickly.

Step two Gussets

Attach one side of the gusset to the diagonal edge of the sleeve. Repeat with other
sleeve. Stop sewing inch from each end of the gusset!

Find and mark the center point of the top edge of your sleeve and center of the
body side. Pin and sew the sleeve edge to the body matching center points.
Repeat with other side. Stop sewing inch from each end of the fabric!

Fold along the shoulder. Sew from wrist until meeting the gore. Sew the nearest
unattached side of the gusset to the sleeve. Sew the final unattached side of the
gusset to the body. Stop sewing inch from each corner of the gusset!

Sew down the side seam 3-4 inches.

Step three Gores

Try on the tunic. Using your own judgment, determine where the side gores
should start. (If the waist is larger than the chest, start the side gores higher on the
body. On ladies, it is most flattering if the gores start at or just above the fullest
part of her hips.) Mark these points.

Sew the mid-length side of the two smaller triangles together. Repeat. These are
the side gores.

Pin and sew each side of the gore to the tunic body matching the top point with
the mark you made. Stop sewing inch from the top of the gore. Finish
sewing the side seam you started earlier. Repeat with the other side.
Note: The gores
will likely be
longer than the
side of the tunic
you are attaching
them to. This is
correct.

Try on the tunic. Again, using your judgment, choose where the center front and
back gores should start.

Cut the slit for the front and back gores on the tunic body. It using a serger, finish
the raw edges now.

Sew the remaining two gores into the slits. Stop sewing 1 from the top point.

Step four Hand Finishing

Gore points, as best you can, roll the tunic fabric towards the inside and take
small stitches to tack the point and tunic body together.

Sleeve, try on the tunic and mark the proper length for the sleeve. Trim off excess
fabric, leaving enough to turn up for a hem. Turn up the hem and whip stitch.

Hem, Try on the tunic and mark the hem length. Most likely, your gores are
hanging below the tunic body. Lay the tunic flat and cut the bottom edge back to
the desired length. Cut in a smooth curve (like a smile), not straight across. Turn
up the hem and whip stitch.

Neck facing, on the inside of the tunic, turn under the raw edge of the neck facing
a whip stitch. If it is difficult to turn under, make small clips perpendicular to the
edge every inch or so.

If you still have raw edges, either pink or turn under all edges.

Finished!
Bibliography
Carlson, I. M. Some Clothing of the Middle Ages 2003. Accessed online

http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/bockback.html on 2/08/13
Durrani, N. Swedish Bocksten Man Brought to Life. World Archaeology. 18 (2006).
Thursfield, S. The Medieval Tailors Assistant. Costume & Fashion Press: Hollywood,
CA. 2001.