Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Tools/Supplies required:
Step 1:
Un-box everything and separate like parts it into areas you can grab from. (Acrylic parts, printed black parts,
screws, nuts, other hardware, rods, bearings, electronics, wires etc.)
Step 2:
Get out your calipers or ruler and separate out your screws into different size piles (believe us, it makes life
much easier). You should only have a few different types.
Using 3 of the linear bearings (small steel cylindrical pieces); slide them into the 3 plastic bearing holders as
shown below.
REV B TYPE
Repeat the process for the left side mount making sure the hole noted above is on the left side.
P.S.: I know the motor mount is on the wrong side, I hope you dont make the same mistake. If so, its not a bad time to swp it to the other side.
Use the acrylic piece to space the pulley from the end of the motor shaft, use a 1/16 hex key to tighten the
set screws.
Insert the long smooth rods as shown, dont put them all the way in yet, just enough to hold together is fine.
Grab the X carriage we built earlier, slide it gently on to the 2 rails in the orientation shown.
Dont tighten the zip ties until we mount this to the acrylic frame.
Note: The endstop will not contact the carriage; it will contact the extruder motor which we will mount later.
Step 18: Insert smooth rods into the Z bearings on the X assembly
Using the shortest smooth rods, insert them into the Z bearings on the X assembly. Do this slowly to make
sure the bearings align themselves properly.
Add the 4 black end pieces to the rods and 4 more nuts and 4 washers:
Insert the ends of the rods into the Y frame corners; repeat this for all 4 corners:
Shorten the distance between the front and the back from the back side of the frame, this will look much
cleaner when its done,
Use the Y carriage to adjust the width between the 2 rods at the end. It is important to do this on a flat surface
as we want the frame to be level and square. Use a square to make sure the rods are at 90 degree angles.
Tighten the nuts on the corners as you make your adjustments. We want the Y carriage to slide smoothly back
and forth without binding. When everything is tight, insert zip ties as shown and tighten.
Run the belt through the idler pulley at the front of the assembly.
Now back into the block. The belt should be taught, but not super tight. If its a little loose, we have springs to
tension it included in the kit.
Align the motor and front idler pulley so that the belt is straight.
Use a zip tie on the two pieces of the belt that are sticking out of the bottom of the belt block to tie them
together, trim the excess belt.
We want the belt riding in the middle of the motor pulley and the idler pulley. Move the Y axis plate back and
forth and adjust the motor mount and idler pulley accordingly.
Set the assembly down ensuring the 1 washer and 1 nut on the longer rods of the Y assembly are on both
sides of the acrylic frame.
Measure and tighten the nuts that are on both sides of the acrylic frame. The corners of the Y assembly should
be 70mm from the acrylic frame. Gently tighten the nuts on the acrylic frame, DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, the
frame will crack, snug is just fine.
Install a washer and nut on each side of the threaded rod that slides into the vertical acrylic support. Make
sure the vertical supports are at a 90 degree angle to the acrylic frame.
Thread the belt through the idler on the right side (from the back of the printer) then around the motor pulley
on the left side.
Insert the belt (pulling taught, but not super tight) into the X carriage belt block. Join the ends with a zip tie
and trim the excess belt. If the belt is not tight, there is a belt tensioning spring included in the kit.
For this bed, use extra solder to tie pads 2&3 together.
Step 37: Build Arduino Electronics with RAMPS board and Stepper Drivers
This is the brain of the printer, it is composed of an Arduino Mega 2560 board (programmable controller), a
RAMPS shield (provides all the necessary connections and for the motors, sensors, hot end and heated bed)
and the stepper drivers that control the power and signals to the stepper motors.
This enables 16X micro-stepping for the stepper drivers, which is where the precision is derived from.
If your stepper drivers have heat sinks, peel the tape off of the back and apply the heat sink to the chip on the
drivers.
Align the stepper drivers as shown with the small potentiometer towards the top of the board and press them
down on to the board ensuring that the pins are in the connectors.
Press the RAMPS shield with stepper drivers installed on to the Arduino board
Step 42: Connect fan, hot end and heated bed wires to RAMPS board
The fan wires may need to be extended to the RAMPS board first. Next, connect the Fan wires to the blue
screw terminals marked D9 on the RAMPS board. Make sure the red wire from the fan goes to the positive
terminal on the D9 terminal.
Now, Connect the hot end wires (woven red fabric wires) to the screw terminals marked D10. Polarity is not
important.
Finally, connect the heated bed wires to the RAMPS board. When trimming the wires, make sure you have
enough slack for the bed to move to the front of the machine.
Step 43: Connect hot end and heated bed thermistors to RAMPS board
The thermistor wires will both need 2 pin connectors crimped or soldered to them. Make sure they have
enough slack for the bed to move to the front of the machine and for the extruder to move to the extreme left
of the machine.
Connect the hot end thermistor to T0 and the heated bed thermistor to T1 on the RAMPS board.
Please follow the pictures for the proper wire orientation, if a motor
moves the in the opposite direction, simply rotate the connector 180
and plug back in to the board.
Note: The E1 port is not used, this is usually for a second extruder, in
this case, it is a spare stepper driver in case you have a failure.
Left Side
Right Side
Before proceeding
X 0.350V
Y 0.550V
Z 0.350V
E 0.350V
Picture shown is for reference; yours should be installed on the machine and wired.
P.S.: Youll have extra parts, theyre spares, you didnt miss anything.