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shelter while Scott and Jane also tented beside us for our first night on the
trail.
Wendy changing clothes after being dropped off, before Springer Mountain
Wendy reading the register by the plaque beginning the Appalachian Trail
our first mail drop we had left here last Sunday and re-supplied our packs.
We took on 11 days of food supplies. It didnt take long for sleep to set in
tonight, lying here on the mattress of a bed. If our planning was right our
new supplies would take us all the way to the Nantahala Outdoor Center in
Wesser, NC. While here at Neels Gap Wendy bought some shorts and I
bought a pile jacket in the hiker store. We shared a couple of cigarettes for
the first time in a few days. I mailed back my heavy army fatigue camo
pants and some other small items we decided we didnt need and did not
want to tote!
All of us piled in for a shot at the Neels Gap Hostel L-R: Paul, Jane, Scott,
Wendy, Teresa, and Kevin
night here. Wendy and I bathed just below the shelter in a cold and swift
stream. The cold water at the end of a hot and sweaty day always made me
feel 100% better. Teresa talked of quitting at Neels Gap and now she wished
she had after this 12 mile day.
Doctoring on blisters
German friend
Last steps climbing Tray Mountain near the end of a long day
Outside Plum Orchard Gap Shelter L-R: Dave (sitting), Kevin (Buckeye) in
sleeping bag, and Wendy with her back to the camera.
The AT coming into Bly Gap and the famous gnarled tree
When we woke this morning the snow had pretty much stopped. The
thermometer on Wendys pack showed the temperature was now 17
degrees. The wind had increased and was blowing approximately 30 mph.
These shelters dont seem like a lot but we were glad to be there! We were
not about to leave the shelter and get out in these temperatures with the
wind and very deep snow. All we did was lay there and discuss our game
plan and tried to stay warm in our sleeping bags. None of the others in the
shelter left either. Our friends Dan and Dawn were planning to meet us this
weekend but we were not going to be able to make it because we were
snowed in. In an age before cell phones, no one knew exactly where we
were. We were on our own. My thermal underwear were frozen like a
wooden plank. I got them in to my sleeping bag and let them warm up
some. I finally put them on and periodically would open my sleeping bag to
release a vapor cloud of steam. This is how I dried them. It worked but it
was cold! We all decided to head for Rainbow Stream Campground tomorrow
which was a commercial campground not far off the AT. It would be a 2 day
trip in this weather. Our food and fuel for Svea stove was running low.
Tonight I put water in our cook pot so it would not freeze in our water bottles.
All I would have to do would be to put the frozen pot of water on the stove
and start thawing it out in the morning for our coffee and breakfast. Off to
sleep again at the end of a long day killing time in the shelter.
View from my sleeping bag inside Carter Gap Shelter. All the gear hanging
up was not drying out. It was frozen like a block of ice
We woke for the second cold morning at Carter Gap Shelter. The sun was
shining but it was cold and all the snow was still on the ground. Trees were
still collapsed with the snow load across the trail. Our leather boots had
frozen solid. It was very hard and uncomfortable to put them on. I
remember getting my foot started in the boot and then having to jump to
drive that foot into the frozen boot. But once the boot was on it slowly
started to become pliable although cold. Our wool gloves had ice sickles
hanging on them and they too had to be thawed. I put on my thermal
underwear, flannel shirt, a pair of light pants, my pile jacket, and my GoreTex Jacket for a shell. I was still cold. Wendy and left first, followed by
Mickey, and then the Texas Turtles. It was a feeling like it was everyone for
themselves. The trail was still very tough to follow and it was easy to lose.
Luck and a slight indentation was all that helped us stay on track and in the
trail. We still had to crawl on our hands and knees in places. Around lunch
we crossed a dirt road in Mooney Gap with tire tracks in the snow. Wendy
wanted to wait for a vehicle but we didnt know when anyone would come by
or even if anyone else would come by. Dan and Dawn were to meet us today
but the snow had delayed us. Was it their tire tracks we saw? Were they out
in his Jeep looking for us? After mixed emotions we continued on the AT and
left the road. The hiking was now extremely dangerous because we were
cold and the trail fell off quickly in places. At one time Wendy cried. I felt
like doing the same but tried to encourage her strongly for us to continue.
We did not need to stop at this point. I guess it was the instinct for survival
that drove me on now. After another long 1 mile the AT came back
alongside another forest service road just south of Albert Mountain. The road
was an alternative trail, marked by blue blazes, for bypassing Albert
Mountain which is normally a very steep climb and tough even in good
weather. We took this blue blazed alternative and walked up the dirt road. I
was in the lead and Wendy was behind me a pretty good ways but I could
still see her. As I rounded a curve in the road I couldnt believe what I saw.
There were people out skiing down the road! I turned and called back to
Wendy that I saw some people skiing down the road. She thought I had
finally succumbed to hypothermia. A 4 wheel drive soon came down the
road and stopped and we told the driver of our situation. He agreed to drive
us into Franklin, NC where we could get a hotel. We had been saved. The
others out skiing would keep an eye out for the Texas Turtles. Our feet had
been numb for several hours but at last we were leaving the ice box for a
motel and a hot shower. What a feeling! As we arrived at the motel
recommended in the Philosophers Guide we saw Dave, Joe, Ed and Buckeye.
They had arrived by going back to the gap near Standing Indian Shelter
where there was a road and getting a ride in. I told them I wished we had
done the same. It seems Buckeye had issues with epileptic seizures and had
problems the morning it first started snowing. The Britts and other hikers
had walked out for a rescue team. All were safe now. As we got to our room
at the hotel I began drying equipment. We had hiking gear everywhere in
the room. As I tried to unroll our tent, ice began to fall from it and thats
when I realized how close of a call we had endured. After some overdue
phone calls and a steak dinner we went to sleep in the luxury of our hotel
room in Franklin, NC.
Preparing to leave Carter Gap Shelter after being snowed in for 2 nights
to the hikers in the Smokies because the snow was so deep that no one
could hike out. Dan and Dawn waited until Wendys Grandpa arrived and
they followed us back to her grandparents home where we all enjoyed a
home cooked lunch by her Grandmother. After lunch, Dan and Dawn drove
us in the Jeep back to the Nantahala River Outdoor Center (NOC) in Wesser,
NC where we checked in to one of the many hostel rooms they had. This
decision caused us to skip about 30 miles of the AT. We also saw Kevin
(Tweety) and lots of other thru hikers there just waiting for the snow to melt.
I knew this would not be a one day wait! We heard that Jane had gone home
for a break. Tweety had arrived in Wesser just as the snow storm had hit.
We also met Grandma Soul who was thru hiking with the support of her
friends, Gordon and Sue and a support van. Grandma had taken off through
the Stekoas which is the name of the mountain range between Wesser and
the Smokies. She was trying to make it to Cheoa Bald but the snow had
slowed her and she returned to the NOC in the darkness with the aid of a dim
flashlight. What a tough lady in her 60s!
For the next several days and nights we stayed with lots of other thru hikers
in the hostels at the NOC. We were going nuts wanting to leave and get on
the trail but there was a lot of deep snow on the trail along with blown down
trees and bad trail conditions. Karen and Dave were also here with us. The
storm had hit them just south of Wayah Bald. They had found a remote
home and actually broke in to it to get out of the storm. They left cash on
the table to pay for the repair of a broken window but they said they felt they
had no choice to save their lives. I called Blue Ridge Mountain sports in
Atlanta at Lenox Square and had some gaiters and overmits shipped to us
while we were waiting at the NOC. We shared our room with Mark the Trail
Troll and an older guy who he had hooked up with. They had shuttled in
from Tray Mountain Georgia.
Wendy leading a hike while at the NOC to check out trail conditions before
we left the hostels. With Dan and Dawn
Exploratory day hike out of the NOC towards Cheoa Bald to check trail
conditions
southeast because there were not a lot of switchbacks or graded trails. The
AT through the Stekoas went straight up the mountain!
We packed up early and left Locust Cove Gap with the sun this morning.
When we arrived at the road crossing, Gordon and Sue were there with the
support van waiting on Grandma Soul. We talked for a few minutes and told
them we had camped with her last night and she should be along soon.
Since they were helping Grandma with the van, taking her gear around to
the next paved road, they asked us if we wanted them to take our 40 pound
packs too. Didnt take much thinking on our parts and we gratefully
accepted their offer. They had a little dog named Muggsy who was traveling
with them and they asked if we would mind walking him over the AT today
and they would meet us with our gear at the next road crossing. We didnt
mind. It felt awesome to be free from the weight of our packs for most of
todays walk. They had some day packs in the van and we took a day pack
and placed our lunch and emergency items in them and continued north on
the AT. They also were helping Dave and Karen shuttle their packs too. This
section of trail had very steep grades with few switchbacks. From the ridges
we could see the Great Smoky Mountains ahead of us in the distance. They
appeared to still be covered in snow and we were still encountering small
patches of snow ourselves but it was melting quickly with temperatures in
the 60s. A couple of miles before the road we met Gordon hiking south. He
had hiked back to meet us and get some exercise. Once reaching the road
and van we once again took on our packs and hiked the last mile to our first
log cabin type of trail shelter at Cable Gap. This shelter was full of mice
according to the trail register. Had a great evening here. Wendy and I found
some time to take a walk and to get off to ourselves for a while. A nice
stream was in front of the shelter. Karen and Dave also made it to the
shelter and settled in. We met Jake and Gretchen who had hiked in from the
shelter near Cheoa Bald and they set up their tent near the shelter. As we all
finished up our dinner I was amazed as I looked up and saw Tweety coming in
to camp. He had our gear and was anxious to catch us. He had covered in
one day what had taken us 2 days to cover! He said he didnt stop all day
and snacked while hiking. Obviously, he was a very strong hiker and had
covered 21 miles today. We let him have our sleeping space in the shelter
and Wendy and I tented nearby. It sprinkled just a little rain tonight but no
big storm.
Muggsy!
The support van that Gordon and Sue drove Wendy getting lunch from
pack
Great views with the Smoky Mountains in the distance still covered in snow
Wendy resupplying our food bag in the foreground while Karen and Dave
catch up on some mail. Washing clothes at the coin laundry in Fontana
Village
Outside the Fontana Hilton. Tweety looks towards the Smokies as me and
him check out the views from the shelter
The break in Spence Field when we heard our friends calling from Rocky Top
Day off at Silers Bald Shelter. L-R: Karen, Dave, and Lone Wolf, just before
the tent outside the shelter blew away
Posing for a picture with Tweety on our day off at Silers Bald Shelter
Beautiful views and cold weather as we left Silers Bald and headed towards
Clingmans Dome
climbed out of Newfound Gap the snow became deeper. By the time we
were within a mile or so of Ice Water Springs Shelter the snow was already
more than a foot deep. We met 2 girls and their family headed south for
their car. They were day hiking and were very cold. Our feet were starting
to become numb from the wet snow and the cold temperatures. After a
short conversation, Wendy and I decided to turn around and go back and
hitch back in to Gatlinburg again. Dave and Karen and Buckeye were ahead
of us on the trail a ways so could not get word to them of our decision. All
we could do was to wish them luck! After quite a while in Newfound Gap we
finally got a ride into Gatlinburg. When we got back to the hotel where we
had stayed we saw Lone Wolf and he gave us an I told you so. Since
Wendy and I had previously hiked the northern section of the Smokies from
Newfound Gap to Davenport Gap last year we decided we would try to hitch
around the northern Smokies tomorrow and restart our hike in Davenport
Gap, the northern end of the Smokies.
Wendy, Lone Wolf, and I left Groundhog Creek Shelter on a beautiful Easter
Sunday morning. Wendy and Lone Wolf were really getting into wild flower
identification and had also identified many during yesterdays hike. Wendy
wanted to slow her pace enough to continue her wild flower gazing so Lone
Wolf and I took off and hiked for a while today. Wendy and I never minded
hiking apart. It is hard for two people to walk together all the time because
everyones pace is different. We would never get too far apart before
stopping to wait for the other to catch up. Lone Wolf was a strong hiker so I
had to push it to keep up with him. We found it so cool that on Easter
Sunday we came into a large meadow area called Max Patch. There is some
private property nearby and the owner of some of this property had 3 large
wooden crosses made out of telephone poles for all to see. Easter. 3
wooden crosses on a hill. I still do not think this was coincidental that God
had arranged our schedule to be here on this day. Wendy soon arrived at
Max Patch. The 3 of us spent a good portion of the afternoon just lying out
on the side of the grassy meadow soaking up the sunshine and beautiful
weather. After our long break, lunch, and sun I suggested, to Wendys
dismay, that we continue on. The trail this afternoon was easy as it just
wound around and through low-land areas. We reached a forest service road
and began climbing steeply up Walnut Mountain. We reached the run-down
log cabin style shelter on top of Walnut Mountain and decided this would be
far enough for the day. Dave tented on one side and Wendy and I tented on
the other side of the shelter. The spring was literally straight down behind
the shelter about 100 yards. It was just really a little pool with chicken wire
around it to keep out debris and animals that might threaten its purity. The
evening was hot and gnats were everywhere. Its incredible to think its
been such nice and sunny weather now for days but there were still areas of
snow in the shady areas on the side of Max Patch. We settled in for the night
thinking about getting in to Hot Springs, NC tomorrow.
Drifts of snow from April 3rd still on the side of Max Patch
Hot Springs, NC
Tweety look over the French Broad River and into Hot Springs, NC
Our camp for the night with Tweety next to our tent
Tweety taking a break on the trail. He is an artist and painted his hiking
sticks with birds and flowers observed along the trail
out. It was close quarters but good company. When everyone got to cooking
dinner it required some agility to get around everyone and duck under all the
hanging gear. After only 6.7 miles today we enjoyed drifting off to sleep as
the rain continued most of the night.
Nice fire going at Jerry Cabin when we arrived. Tweety writing in the shelter
register
L-R: Slim Jim, Grandma Soul, The Happy Feet, and the couple hiking with
them in the foreground
point of us having to use our hands to help us climb up. Near the top of the
climb we met some Sierra Club members near the top of Frozen Knob
clearing the trail. Throughout the afternoon we continued to look for a side
trail to the right that would take us to Hogback Ridge Shelter. It was still
foggy and we did not want to miss it. After 13.9 miles we found it. It is a log
cabin style shelter with the spring a very long distance away, behind the
shelter. Tonight had the most campers I had ever seen at a trail shelter.
Once the shelter filled up, the tents started going up. Lots of thru hikers
catching up to us now. Tonight we met Forest and a hiker from Europe he
was hiking with.