2-PART PLASTER MOLD-MAKING

The premise of this project is to create a two

piece mold from a found-object original.
The final mold pieces are then secured together
to enable casting of a final object. The mold can
be re-used over and over to create multiple final
objects. This technique is suitable for learning
the process of mold making and casting, and
the same principles can be used to create multipart molds from more complex original objects.

approximately one-inch of clay beneath the object.

Smooth out the surface of the clay to a flat, even
finish. If you need to take a break, cover the container
with a plastic bag so the clay wont dry out. (If you
want to leave the project for more than a few hours,
gently cover the clay with a damp paper towel before
wrapping it in plastic.)
Step 3 - Registration Holes: It is important to
create a map so that you can fit your two finished
mold halves together. To do this you must make
registration holes. This is done by making four

Materials and equipment:

An original object to be duplicated
Modeling clay
Plaster of Paris
Petroleum jelly or other type of release agent
A container for pouring your mold into (such as a
cardboard box; another option is adjustable wooden
Tbars with clamp closures)
A clean bucket for mixing the plaster, preferably a
plastic bucket if possible
A large wooden board used as a working surface
Newspaper or plastic to keep work area clean
Step 1 - Choosing an original: For first time mold
makers, choose an object with limited detail and few
pronounced appenditures. Once you have worked
with the process of mold-making and feel comfortable,
you can then move on to more complex projects.
Step 2 - Preparing Your Object for Making One
Side of the Mold: Select a container for pouring your
mold. The container should allow roughly 2" of space
a round all sides of the original object. Fill the
container with clay to a depth that will allow you to
imbed your original to the half-way point with

registration
holes

1/2-inch circular indentations in each corner of the

clay surface. You can use the tip of a finger to do this.
The indentations will allow plaster to flow into them,
creating a raised bump on each corner of your first
mold half. When you pour the second half of the
mold, you will be left with a reverse hole which
matches each bump.
Step 4 - Create a Pouring Spout: You must also
create a spout which will enable you to pour plaster
or another suitable casting material into your final
mold, in order to produce your final object. The spout
should be placed at the bottom of your object so that it
is not noticeable on the final piece. The spout should
be wide enough to allow you to pour easily. The easiest
pouring spout

(make the
spout from a
role of clay)

your original object

clay

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way to create a spout is to place a length of rolled clay

between your object and the wall of the container.
Step 5 - Apply a Release Agent: The next step in
the process is to apply a release agent to your object
and container. This is important because it will enable
you to release the object from the plaster mold if

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2-PART PLASTER MOLD-MAKING

you forget to do this your object and mold will be
ruined. A typical, economical release agent is
petroleum jelly. You can also use commercial release
agents specifically made for the purpose, usually
available in either liquid or spray. Disperse the release
agent liberally across the surface of the original and
the sides of the container. You do not have to coat the
clay because it will not adhere to the plaster.
Step 6 - Double-Check that you have adequately
prepared: You are now ready to mix plaster for the
first half of your mold. Once you mix your plaster,
you must be ready to pour immediately. Before doing
so, double-check that you have properly pre p a red. It is
helpful to try to visualize the reverse of how your
object looks in the clay base. If you notice any problem
a reas, it is best to fix them before proceeding. As you
become more comfortable with mold-making, you will
begin to recognize problem areas. Be prepared to learn
by trial and error.
Step 7 - Mixing and Pouring the Plaster:
Preparation: Begin with a clean bucket. The bucket
should be deep enough to allow you to mix enough
plaster to fill the mold to at least a one-inch depth
above the original. Fill the bucket so that the water
level is high
enough that it
approximates
two-thirds the
amount of plaster
you will need.
Ensure there is
enough space in
the bucket to
accommodate the full amount of mixed plaster. Water
should be room temperature, if it is too cold or too hot
it will impede the curing process and weaken the
strength of the final mold. You will also need a small
container for transferring the dry plaster from its
package to the bucket.
Mixing: Mix plaster using the Island Method.
This method is one of the easiest ways to mix plaster
based products. (You can also follow the plaster
manufacturers guidelines, which usually follow a
formula of: weight of plaster / volume of water.) For
the Island method, gently sift the plaster into the centre

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of the bucket of water. Let

the plaster settle on its own.
Keep sifting until the plaster
forms an island about the
size of a quarter above the
water surface. You will
notice that as the island
starts to form, the edges
slowly disperse into the
water. Once the island
remains above the surface
without dispersion you have achieved the right
amount of plaster to water. At this point give the
bucket a good bang on
the table to release any
plaster
island
trapped air bubbles. Let
the plaster sit for two to
five minutes. If mixing a
large batch of plaster, let
it sit longer. The sitting
time will allow the water
to absorb the plaster
molecules, and this is an important step in improving
the final strength of the product. After sitting, give the
bucket another bang to further release any air. Now
you can begin mixing, using your hand or a mixing
implement. (For mixing large batches, attachments are
available for hand drills.) Break up any lumps in the
plaster and mix using a figure-eight motion. Dont mix
too vigorously as this will create air bubbles. Mix to the
consistency of thick cream, still thin enough that you
can pour it evenly into the mold. Mixing will take
several minutes. Bear in mind that once the plaster
begins to set, it will become difficult to pour. Keep this
in mind if you are pouring larger size molds or
multiple molds, as you may want to begin pouring
when the plaster is
more fluid.
Pouring: When
the plaster is the
consistency of thick
cream, you are ready
to pour it into the
mold. Pour the
plaster into a corner

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2-PART PLASTER MOLD-MAKING

so that it will find its own way around the object. Pour
until the plaster is at least a one-inch thickness above
the object. Once poured, bang the surface of the table to
dislodge any air bubbles. Then allow the plaster to set.
Setting time will depend on the size of your mold. Wait
at least an hour on smaller molds, or longer for larger
molds. You will notice that the surface of the plaster
heats up and then becomes cool again. This is a natural
occurrence which is part of the curing process. Once the
plaster is firm and cool to the touch it is properly cured
and you are ready to release the original. If you notice
excessive water on the surface of the plaster during the
curing process it is likely because the plaster was
improperly mixed. The plaster may still set, but it may
not be as strong as it should be.
Step 8 - Prepare for Part two of the mold: Once
your plaster mold has set, flip the container over and
gently peel away the clay, leaving the clay of the
pouring spout in place. If you have used a container
with a bottom, cut away the bottom to expose the clay
and then peel it away. (Store the clay in a plastic bag as
you can re-use it for future projects.) You will now be
able to see the original imbedded in the plaster. You
will also notice the
note: registration nodules
four plaster
registration nodules.
It's not a bad idea to
take the time to
release the original
from the mold at this
point. To do so,
gently rock the original to loosen it from the mold
cavity. Work slowly, gentle scraping around the edges
of the object to help break the bond between the object
and mold. Use wooden tools as they are soft and will
not damage the mold as easily. Once the object begins
to give it usually will come out quite quickly, so be
prepared for this as you may pull too hard and
damage the mold. Be gentle but firm. The object
should release providing there are no undercuts and
the release agent was properly applied. If you damage
the mold you can usually fix it with clay or plaster fill.
Step 9 - Preparing for Part two of the two-part
mold: Place the original back into the mold. Continue
preparing the mold by applying a release agent to the

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container walls, the plaster mold, and the original

object following STEPS 5 and 6.
Step 10 - Mixing and Pouring the second part of
the mold: Repeat the procedures in STEP 7.
Step 11 - Releasing the original: Once the second
half of your mold is completely set, you are ready to
release the original. Begin by releasing the entire mold
from its container or box, then gently insert a knife or
wooden tool between the two parts of the mold to
separate the pieces. This step is a little tricky as the
original may be quite tightly imbedded and you do
not want to damage the mold. Again, work slowly.
Once the two halves are separated, the original will
still be imbedded in one half. Remove it using the
method described in STEP 8.
Step 12 - Cleaning the mold: Thoroughly clean
both halves of the mold, using cold water and a soft
brush. Use the brush to remove any excess clay but be
c a reful not to damage the details in the surface. Next
apply a solution of green dish soap and water (there
a re commercially available mold soaps specifically
designed for the purpose). This will help seal the mold
and allow it to release from each cast more easily. Pat
the mold dry and then set it aside to dry thoroughly.
(Let the soap solution dry in the mold, re m o v i n g
excessive deposits prior to casting.) Once the mold is
dry, you can touch up any imperfections with plaster
fill or clay. The better the mold is cleaned and
prepared, the easier it will be to achieve consistent
final casts. Take enough time cleaning to ensure
successful casting.
Step 13 - Pouring a Plaster Cast: Once the mold
pieces are pre p a red, apply a release agent to all
surfaces. Match the mold pieces together by matching
the registration nodules to their correct hollow. Secure
the two parts together firmly with elastics or other
suitable restraints. Set the mold on your work surface
so that the hole where the pouring spout is located is
at the top. Secure the mold with clay supports if it is at
all tipsy. You are now ready to pour your first cast.
Prepare the plaster as previously described and pour it
into the pouring spot. Bang the table to release any air
bubbles. The plaster should fill the mold to where the
edge of the objects surface is located. Allow the plaster
to set completely and then release using the same

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methods described previously. Clean and dry the
mold so that you can re-use it if desired, for making
multiple casts of your original object.

NOTES:

Step 14 - Preparing you final cast for finishing:

You should clean and dry the surface of your final
object. When the object is freshly removed from the
mold you will notice that the plaster is soft enough to
cut away any imperfections, or you can wait until the
piece is completely dry and then sand or file it. Plaster
objects should be sealed for general protection and to
prepare them for painting or finishing. Plaster should
be completely dry before sealing.
Tip: Soft clay is best for imbedding the original. You can
soften clay by adding a little water to the bag and kneading
it. You can also use the clay to dam up any leakage points
in your container.
Tip: For easy clean up, use a plastic bucket. Once you are
finished pouring you can throw away any excess plaster left
in the bucket, then allow the remainder to dry on the bucket
surface. Once dry the plaster is easily dislodged by banging
the bucket. The plaster will flake off in shards.

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