Pagei

howtoreadafrenchfry

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HOUGHTONMIFFLINCOMPANY
BostonNewYork2001

howtoreadafrenchfry
andotherstoriesofintriguingkitchenscience

RussParsons

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Copyright2001byRussParsons

Allrightsreserved

Forinformationaboutpermissiontoreproduceselectionsfromthisbook,writetoPermissions,HoughtonMifflinCompany,215ParkAvenueSouth,NewYork,New
York10003.

VisitourWebsite:www.houghtonmifflinbooks.com.

LibraryofCongressCataloginginPublicationData
Parsons,Russ.
Howtoreadafrenchfry:andotherstoriesofintriguingkitchenscience/RussParsons.
p.cm.
ISBN039596783X
1.Cookery.I.Title.
TX651.P362001
641.5dc2100054685

QUM10987654321
PrintedintheUnitedStatesofAmerica

BookdesignbyMelodieWertelet,mwdesign@mediaone.net
CoverphotographbyJimScherer

TheauthorisgratefulforpermissiontoreprinttherecipesinthisbookthatoriginallyappearedintheLosAngelesTimes.ReprintedwithpermissionoftheLosAngeles
Times,copyright2000.

Pagev
Formymom,whotaughtmetousewords
mydad,whotaughtmetothink
andKathyandSarah,whotaughtmealmosteverythingelse.

Pagevi

acknowledgments
Beingajournalistmeansnevergettingtosaythankyou.Youworkonastory,youtalktoyoursources,thestoryappears,andthenyoumoveontothenextone.Most
ofwhatwedoasjournalistsisrelayotherpeoplesknowledgetoourreaders.Andtheonlythankswegiveisabriefmentioninthenewspaper.Ivegot25yearsof
thankyoussavedup.
Thepeoplewhovehelpedmefallintothreegroups:cooks,writersandscientists.Thefirstgroup,ofcourse,isclosesttomyheart.Theyvefedme(cometothinkofit,
sohavemanyofthewritersandoneortwoofthescientiststoo).PeoplelikeAndreDiddy,DeborahMadison,MichaelMal,RosaRajkovic,MichaelRoberts,Nadia
Santini,KenandTonyShoemaker,MarthaRoseShulman,NancySilverton,ChrisSmith,ZanneStewart,C.B.StubblefieldandCliffordWrighthavetaughtmemuch
ofwhatIknowaboutthejoysofcookingforotherpeople.SpecialmentiongoestothetwotrulybrilliantcooksIveknown,ThomasKelleroftheFrenchLaundryin
Yountville,California,andMichelRichardofCitronelleinWashington,D.C.,myFrenchbrother.
Awriterisamagpie,collectingbitsandpiecesoftechniquefromeveryonehereads.Another,lesspolitewayofputtingitisthatweareabunchofthieves,stealing
anythingthatisntnaileddown.ThepeopleIverobbedmosthappilyincludefirstandforemostPhyllisRichmanandMattKramer,butalsoToniAllegra,Michael
Bauer,RoseLevyBeranbaum,MarkBittman,Amanda

Pagevii
Hesser,CharlesPerry,FredPlotkin,BartRipp,JeffreySteingarten,SylviaThompsonandPaulaWolfert.And,ofcourse,thequeenmotherofallfoodwriters,Julia
Child.SpecialmentionmustbemadeofthefoodstaffattheLosAngelesTimes,especiallyRuthReichl,whohiredmeinthefirstplaceandwasbyfarthebestboss
Iveeverhadinanycapacity,andDonnaDeaneandMayiBrady,whotestedmostoftheserecipes.
Thentherearethescientists.AnyonewhowritesaboutthescienceofcookingowesatremendousdebttoHaroldMcGee,whoopenedoureyestothesubject.His
OnFoodandCookingremainsanincredibleachievementeverythingthathasbeenwrittensinceonlymakesitmoreremarkable.Buttherearealsomanyotherbooks
onfoodsciencethatareworthinvestigating.TwoauthorsIfindextremelyvaluableareBelleLowe,whosebooks,thoughpublishedinthe1930s,remainremarkablyup
todateinmanyways,andMargaretMcWilliams.Inaddition,Ireliedontheexpertiseofmany,manypeople,bothinprintandinperson.Theseinclude:P.J.Bechtel
ofColoradoStateUniversityEricBlockofStateUniversityofNewYorkAlbanyMichaelBlumenthalofRutgersUniversity(whohandedmepracticallyeverythingI
neededforthefryingchapterand,indirectly,gavemethetitleforthisbook)CarlosChrisostooftheUniversityofCaliforniaatDavisTerryDockertyofthe
CattlemansBeefAssociationJanetEastridgeoftheDepartmentofAgricultureRayFieldoftheUniversityofWyomingGregoryGrayoftheDepartmentof
AgricultureArthurGrosserofMcGillUniversityArthurMaureroftheUniversityofWisconsinNellMondyofCornellLeslieNorrisofMcCormickandCompany
JayNovakofskioftheUniversityofIllinoisUrbanaLouisRocklandofFoodTechResearchDarylTatumofColoradoStateUniversityandAlanSamsofTexas
A&M.Therearemanymorewhosecontributionstopapersorjournalswereuseful.Whethertheyknewitornot,theyallcontributedtothisbook.Ofcourse,any
faultsliewithmymisinterpretations,notwiththeirinformation.

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Ioweatremendousdebtofgratitudetomystalwartagent,JudithWeber,whowasalwaystherewhenIneededherandcontributedmanygoodideas(including
spottingthetitle!),butalwaysknewwhennottoaskme,Howsthebookgoing?Andfinally,tothecrewatHoughtonMifflin,especiallymyeditor,RuxMartin,who
neverflinchedwhenIaskedtodojustonemorerewrite.Thatwevecomethroughthisprocessandremainonasgoodtermsaswhenwestartedisatestamentto
ourlongfriendship.

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contents
recipes
introduction
onehowtoreadafrenchfry
twothesecondlifeofplants
threemiracleinashell
fourfromapebbletoapillow
fivemeatandheat
sixfat,flourandfear
index

x
1
9
47
123
149
217
285
313

Pagex

recipes
APPETIZERSANDFIRSTCOURSES
tuscanpotatochips
stuffedzucchiniflowers
friedlittlefish
goatcheesetartwithcaramelizedonionsandgreenolives
roastedtomatoeswithgoatcheese
troutmousse
whitebeancrostini
cevichewithshrimpandavocado
dungenesscrabcoleslaw
BREAKFASTANDBRUNCH
cornmealwaffleswithwinterfruitcompote
strawberrypreserves
nectarineandrosegeraniumjam
meyerlemonmarmalade
scrambledeggswithmorelsandasparagus
SALADS
roastedbeetandorangesalad
celerysaladwithwalnutsandbluecheese
greengoddesssalad
smokedtunasaladintomatoes
seafoodricesalad
calamarisalad
crispsalmonsalad
SOUPS
smokycreamofcornsoup
creamofcauliflowersoup
squashsoupwithmoroccanspices
fishsoupwithshellfish

25
27
29
34
63
142
191
235
238
110
119
120
121
141
78
135
136
137
188
236
237
165
205
207
240

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PASTA,RICEANDBEANS
orecchiettewithprosciuttoandpeas
pastawithbroccolirabe
macaroniandcheesewithgreenonionsandham
broccolilasagna
freeformlasagnaofroastedasparagus
wildmushroomlasagna
pastawithpotatoes
softpolentawithrag
artichokerisotto
zucchiniandporcinirisotto
pintobeanpuree
whitebeanandswisschardstew
pintobeanandsquashstew
porkandbeans...andendive
potatognocchi
REDMEAT,CHICKENANDFISH
crispskinnedsalmononcreamyleeksandcabbage
countryfriedchicken
panfriedchickenbreastswithfreshtomatoes,greenolivesandrosemary
porkschnitzelwitharugulasalad
ragoutofshrimpandfavabeans
braisedduckandlentils
sausagesandribswithredwinebraisedlentils
salmonbraisedwithleeks,prosciuttoandmushrooms
ovensteamedsalmonwithcucumbersalad
grilledsalmonwithchipotletequilabutter
grilledswordfishwithsalsaverde
bakedfishwithpotatoesandartichokes
broiledsanddabswithbrownbutter

167
168
180
172
175
177
179
180
184
186
192
194
196
198
211
38
40
42
44
84
200
202
242
244
246
248
250
252

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roastbrinedturkey
turkeytonnatosandwich
realfajitas
umbrianstyleporkroast
roastlambwithfreshpeasandturnips
chickenbraisedwithgreenolivesandthyme
chickeninthepot
mushroompotroast
lambandlentilstoeatwithaspoon
braisedlambshankswithgreenolives
ragnapoletano
wildmushroommeatloaf
spicygarlicsausages
lamb,orangezestandrosemarysausages
smokerlesssmokedbratwurst
VEGETABLES
brusselssproutsandbacon
sautedgreenbeanswithgarlicandsage
butterbraisedspinach
belgianendivebraisedwithcream
radicchioalforno
glazedzucchini
californiasuccotashofsquash,limabeansandcorn
creamedonionswithshiitakemushrooms
marketmix
bakedtomatoesstuffedwithmozzarella
rajas(grilledpeppersandcream)
ratatouille
potatogratin
butternutsquashpureewithbalsamicvinegar

255
256
258
259
260
266
268
280
272
274
276
279
281
282
283
36
37
64
65
66
67
68
80
72
73
74
76
209
213

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gratinofsweetpotatoesandbourbon
pureeofwintersquashandapples
VEGETABLEMAINCOURSES
springvegetablestewofsnappeas,lettuce,newpotatoesandartichokes
stewofcharredtomatoes,pastaandcranberrybeans
grilledvegetablesandwich
stuffedzucchini
eggplantandgoatcheesecasserole
DESSERTS
peachfritters
strawberrysoup
slicedmelonsinlimemintsyrup
fallfruitcompote
quinceapplesauce
dreamsicleoranges
candiedcitruspeel
ultimatestrawberryshortcake
perfumedstrawberriesinmeringuebaskets
mangocrepeswithmexicancream
cornmealcrepeswithspicedplumcompote
vanillabakedappleswithbourbonsauce
apricotalmondclafoutis
berryicecream
stonefruiticecream
whitepeachandfigicecream
chocolatepotsdecrme
lemonspongepudding
lemoncurdtart

214
215
80
82
86
88
91
30
95
96
97
98
99
100
102
104
106
108
112
114
115
116
117
144
146
147

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shortpastrycrust
flakypiecrust
rustictartcrust
rusticpeachtart
nectarineandalmondtart
lavenderfigtart
applecrisp
snickerdoodles
NewMexicanChristmasCookies(biscochitos)
gingersnaps
grandmasmithschristmascookies
sourcherrystuffedalmondcookies

296
297
299
300
301
302
303
306
307
308
309
310

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howtoreadafrenchfry

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Page1
Wildersatonatallstoolinfrontofthestove,watchingwaterboilinasmallenamelpot.Heseemedfascinatedbytheprocess.Iwonderedifheduncoveredsome
splendidconnectionbetweenthingshedalwaysthoughtofasseparate.Thekitchenisroutinelyrichinsuchmoments.
DonDeLillo,WhiteNoise

introduction
Haveyouevernoticedthatawholeonionsmellsdifferentfromonethatsbeencut?Haveyoueverwonderedwhy?Herestheanswer:Physically,anonionis90
percentwater,trappedinafairlyflimsynetworkofcellulose.Withinthatnetworkisasubnetworkofsmallercells,calledvacuoles.Thesevacuolesseparateavarietyof
chemicalcomponentssuspendedinthewater.Itsonlywhenthevacuolesareruptured,eitherbycuttingorbysmashing,thatthesechemicalcomponentscombineand
thenrecombineagainandagaininacascadeofchemicalreactions,creatingthesmellandtasteweassociatewithrawonions.Mostsimplyput,whathappensisthatthe
contentsoftheseseparatevacuolescombinetoformavarietyofsulfurrichcompoundscalledsulfonicacids.Theseacidsinturncombinetoformstillmorecompounds
thatprovidemostofthefreshcutonioncharacter.Whatsmore,thischainofreactionshappensinaflash.Itsalittlemiracle.Infact,notuntilthe1980shadscience
advancedtothepointthatitcouldbegintodecipherwhathappensinthatfleetinginstantbetweenthetimeyourknifetouchestheonionandthefumesreachyournose.
Thinkaboutit:thechoppingofanonionisoneofthemostcommonactsinallofcooking.Anygoodcookhasdoneitthousands,probablymillionsoftimes.Yethow

Page2
manyhaveeverstoppedtothinkaboutwhatisreallygoingon?Allofthisisneithertrivialnorpurelytechnical.Forexample,itsimportanttorealizethatthesesulfonic
acidsareextremelyunstable,meaningtheygoawayquickly.Oneoftheplacestheygo,ofcourse,isrightupyournose,whichtriggersthecryingresponseweassociate
withchoppingonions(forthisreason,thesechemicalsarecalledlachrymators,fromtheLatinwordfortears).Morecritically,theyarebothwatersolubleandheat
sensitive,whichmeansthatthechemicalswilldissolveinwaterandwillvaporizewhenheated.Inshort:soakanonionorcookitandthoseacridflavorcharacteristics
goaway.Bythesametoken,andperhapsjustasuseful,chillanonionorrinseitundercoldwaterandyouwontcryasmuchwhenchoppingit.Also,asharperknife
willdamagefarfewercellsthanadullone.
Andwhataboutthosesocalledsweetonions,theVidaliasorMauisorwhateveryouwanttocallthem?Thoughsweetonionscostsignificantlymore,theyusually
containnomoresugarthanplainfivepoundsforadollaryellowstorageonions.Theytastesweeterbecausetheyaremuchlowerintheacridsulfuriccompounds(as
wellasintheenzymethatproducesmuchoftheonionflavor).Thepracticalapplicationofthisisthatwhilerawsweetonionsaredeliciousonhamburgersorinsalads,it
isspendthrifttocookone.Takeawaythosesulfuricacidsbycooking,andayellowstorageonionwillactuallytastemuchsweeterthanthesocalledsweet.Youcan
evenmakerawstorageonionstastesweeterbysoakingtheminseveralchangesofcoldwater(hotwaterismoreeffectiveatdispersingtheacids,buteventhatsmall
amountofheatwillbegintocooktheonion,breakingupthedelicatephysicalframeworkandrobbingitofitscrispness).Eachtimeyourinsethecutonions,youwill
notethatthewaterbecomesmilky.Thatisthetrailofthesulfurouscompounds.Usevinegartorinsethem,astheydoinMexico,andyouronionswillseemeven
sweeter,becausetheremainingsulfuricacidsareovershadowedbymorepalatableaceticacids.

Page3
Thereareotherlessonsforthecookinthislittlebitofonionchemistry.Forexample,nowitshouldbeclearwhythesizeofthediceyoucutisimportant.Thesmaller
thepiecesofonion,thefasterthecelluloseframeworkbreaksdownandthefasterthesulfuriccompoundsgoaway.Chopanonionsmallanditwillmeltintothe
background,itsresidualsweetnessforminganalmostimperceptibleharmonizingflavor.Leaveitlargeifyouwantbothtextureandflavortoretainsomebite.Youcan
controltheeffectbyhowyoucooktheonionaswell.Inahotpan,itwillcooksoquicklythatsomeofthesharpflavorwillremain,aswillsomeofthecrisptexture.
Cookitslowlyand,again,itwillmeltintothebackground,flavoringeverythingelsewithoutretainingmuchofitsoriginalidentity.Whatsmore,allofthesethingsare
equallytruefortheothermembersoftheonionfamily:garlic,shallots,chives,greenonionsandleeks.Theyareallbuiltthesamewaythedifferencesinflavoraredue
tosubtledifferencesinthechemicalsinvolved.Garlic,forexample,followsthesameprocessbutbreaksdownintoaslightlydifferentsetofchemicals.
Thekitchenisfullofsuchlittlemiracles,fromthebrowningofmeattotheemulsionofasauce.Howarevariousmeatsdifferentfromoneanother?Whydoyoucook
porkdifferentlyfrombeef?Howdovariouscutswithinthesametypeofmeatdiffer?Whydoyoucookalegoflamblongerthanarack?Andwhataboutchickenand
fish?Howisfryingdifferentfromroasting,andhowissteamingdifferentfromeitherofthese?Whyaresomepotatoesbetterforboilingandothersforbaking?Whycan
youstickyourhandina450degreeovenbutnotin212degreeboilingwater?Cookingisfullofquestionsthatsciencecanhelpanswerquestionsyoumightnot
haveeventhoughtaboutaskingbutthatcanmakeyouabettercook.
Inthegoodolddays,youlearnedtocookinthekitchen.Youworkedattheelbowofamasteryourmother,agreatcheforthefrycookdownthestreetand
youabsorbedthebasics.You

Page4
learnedbywatchingandrepeating.Yousawwhattheydidandthenyoutriedtodoityourself,mimickingasexactlyaspossibleeveryacttheyperformed.Whenyou
hadabsorbedasufficientamountofknowledge,youthenbecametheteacher,passingalongexactlythesamelessonsinexactlythesameway.
Thereismuchtobesaidfortradition,butasamethodofinstruction,ithasitsdrawbacks.Inthefirstplace,itputsanenormousburdenonthetalentsofthatone
teacher.Ifyourmom/chef/frycookwas,letussay,somethinglessthansupremelyskilled,badhabitsmayhavebeenpassedalongeverybitaseasilyasgoodones.Its
afairlylimitedwayofcookingtoo.Ifyoueverwanttomovebeyondyourteachersrangeofdishes,youvegottofindanothermentor,oryoureoutofluck.Theres
thestoryaboutthedaughterwhoislearningtocook.Hermotherteachesherthatwhencookingaham,youalwayscutofftheshankend.Sheaskswhy,andher
motherexplainsthatthatsthewayhermothertaughtherandthatitisdonetotenderizethemeat.Sheaskshergrandmotherwhy,andthegrandmothertellsherthat
thatisthewayhermotherdiditanditsbecausethemeattastesbetterthatway.Puzzled,shevisitshergreatgrandmotheroutonthefarmandasksherforherstory.
Well,shesays,pointingatthelittleoldwoodfiredstove,ThatstheonlywayIcouldgetittofit.

Butperhapsthebiggestdrawbacktotraditionasawayofinstructionisthatitassumestheressomeonearoundwhoisactuallycooking.Moreandmore,thatseemsto
beadangerousassumption.WhilemicrowavemealsandTVdinnersmaybeaboontobusyworkingfamilies,theyhavebeendeadlytothetraditionofhomecooking.
Wearenowthreeandsometimesfourgenerationsremovedfromtheageofrealcooksthosewhomadedousingtherawingredientsathand,withouttheaidof
foodindustryshortcuts.
Butbynowthisisanoldsong.Whatsrarelyaskediswhetherwewouldbewillingtolistenevenifthoseimaginaryteachersof

Page5
thepastwerestillaround.Wevechanged,andtheunquestioningfollowingofinstructionsnolongerseemstobepartofourmakeup.Giveaninstruction,fromWork!
toDuck!andtheimmediateresponseis,Why?Becauseisnotanacceptableanswer.Wewanttoknowwhysomethingworks.Howitworks.Whathappensif
youdothisinstead.Really?Illtryitmyselfandsee.
Eventhewayweapproacharecipeprobablyascloseaswecancometothosementorsofoldhaschanged.Ontheonehand,becauseofthislackof
mentoring,theamountofdetailrequiredinarecipehasincreasedalmostexponentiallyoverthepastfewgenerations.Attheturnofthecentury,itwasperfectly
understoodforawritertoinstruct,Prepareintheusualmanner.Todayarecipenotonlyneedstoexplainwhattheusualmannerisbutneedstoincludehowthe
ingredientistobecleanedandcutbeforecooking(andinsomecaseswhatitlookslikeandwhereitcanbebought),thesizeandtypeofpanitistobepreparedin,the
typeofheatitistobecookedoverandforexactlyhowlongand,ideally,severalindicationsofprogressandeventuallydonenessalongtheway.Theproblemis,
almostnorecipecanbewritteninenoughdetailtocovereverypossiblequestionthatmightarise.
Thatsnottosayweknowlessaboutfoodtoday.Infact,maybetheoppositeistrue.Nomatterhowuneducatedmostpeopleareabouttheprocessofcooking,we
tendtobeextremelyknowledgeableabouteating.Whileitmighthavebeenpossibleforcooksinthepasttomastermerelybyrotethedozenorsoregionalspecialties
thatwouldhavebeenanycooksrepertoire,thingsaredifferentnow.Todayweeatand,hopefully,cookacrossregionalandculturalboundaries.Notonlyis
someoneinAtlantaliabletofixBostonbakedbeansfordinner,hemighttryhishandthenextnightatpadThai.Anyreasonablyproficientfoodiescandiscussthe
intricaciesofdishesmadeincountriestheymayhavetroublelocatingonamap.Wecandebatetheprovenanceofalmostanyingredientlistedonarestaurantmenu.

Page6
Andwehavedevelopedverydefiniteopinionsabouthowwewantourfoodtotaste.Wehaveeatenatthetablesofthemostcreativechefsinthecountry,andwe
knowwhatwelikeevenifwedontknowhowtoroastachicken.
Thetrick,then,istoprovidetheanswerstobasiccookingquestionsinawaythatpeoplecanunderstandenoughtofollowthem.Thephysicalprocessesofcooking
are,afterall,universal.BrowningapieceofmeatworksexactlythesamewhetheritisbeingdoneinawokinSichuanorinapadellainPadua.Thatiswherethisbook
comesin.Itisnotintendedtobeafoodsciencetextbook.Thereareplentyofthose,andifyouareinterestedinwhatyoufindhere,youcanmoveontothem.Rather,
thisbookisaboutgettingyoutopauseforaminutetoexaminesomeoftheimportantprocessesincooking,toexplainthesciencebehindthemandthentotellyouhow
youcanusethatknowledgetoimproveyourowncooking.Youcanthinkofitasakindofmoderncookingclass,onethatusesbasicscientificprinciplestoexplain
culinarytruthsanddoesitwithaminimumoftechnicallanguage.
Atthispoint,someofyouareprobablyheadingforthedoor.ItsthatSwordagain.Sciencehasgottenabadnamelately.Weequateitwitheverythingfrom
sophisticatedweaponrytoFrankensteinlikeexperimentationwithlifeitself.Ithasbecomesynonymouswithnotjusttechnologybuttechnologyrunamok.Whatcould
bemoreironic?Assciencebecomesmoreandmoreanintrinsicpartofourlives,wehavecometoloatheitassomethingcompletelyseparateandforeign.Yetatits
mostbasiclevel,scienceisnothingmorethanawayofansweringquestionsaboutthethingsthathappentouseveryday.Itisnotsomethingseparatefromthenatural
worlditisawayoflookingatthenaturalworldandtryingtounderstandit.Perhapstheproblemisthatscienceasmostofusexperienceitatsecondhand,through
readingreportshasmovedsofarpastthequestionsthatconcernmostofusthatwenolongerseetheconnections.TripstoMars

Page7
andexplorationsofthegenecodearedoubtlessfascinating,butneitherhasmuchapplicationtolife.Maybewhatisneededisareturntorealscience,toquestionsthat
welaypeopleponder.Nowhereisthereabetterlaboratoryforthisthanthekitchen.
Somefearthatturningtowardkitchensciencemeansturningawayfromtheartofcooking,asifthetwowerecontradictory.Nothingcouldbefurtherfromthetruth.If
itmakesyoumorecomfortable,thinkofthisasananticookbook.Wellbeginwithsomescience,thenproceedontopracticaladvice.Finally,therearerecipesthat
demonstratethethingsyouveread.Onceyouunderstandthesebasicprocesses,youwillbefreetocookwellevenwithoutanyrecipesatall.Youllknowhowtoget
theresultsyouwant,andyoullbeabletoadjusttherecipestofityourtasteandtheingredientsyouhaveonhand.Theonlylimitwillbeyourcreativeability.Inthe
sameway,thisbookcanalsobereadasanexplicationofothercookbooks.Youllnolongerhavetorelyonthecookbookwritertotellyouhowhottheflameshould
be,howbrownthemeatshouldbeorwhensomethingisdone.Youllknowforyourself.Itsthenextbestthingtohavingmomthescientistthereexplaining
everything.
Insomecases,theconnectionsbetweentherecipesmayseemabittenuousuntilyouvereadthechapters.Forexample,whatexactlydoavinaigretteandachocolate
puddinghaveincommon?Well,lookatitthisway:Vinaigretteisanemulsionacombinationoftwoingredientsthatdontnormallygetalong(oilandwater).
Mayonnaiseisanemulsionmadeusingeggs.Hollandaiseisahotemulsionmadewithcookedeggs.Puddingsarenothingmorethanstiffenedemulsionsofcookedeggs.
Onethingleadstoanother.Thekitchenisroutinelyrichinsuchunexpectedconnections.

Page8
Thispageleftintentionallyblank

Page9

one:
howtoreadafrenchfry
Everyonelovesdeepfriedfoods,asaglanceatanyfastfoodmenuwillprove.Yetmostpeoplewouldsoonertunetheirowncarorperformminorsurgeryonafamily
memberbeforetheywouldtrytofryintheirownkitchen.Tosaythatweareambivalentaboutfryingisanunderstatement.Ontheonehand,ithasbecome
synonymouswithminimumwagelabor(Youwantfrieswiththat?).Buthardlyanyonewilldaretotryitathome.Youcanhardlyblamethem.Anyonedoubtingthat
cookingisacomplexart(orperhapscraftismoreaccurate)needonlyconsiderfrying.Perhapsnoothertypeofcookinginvolvesquiteasmanyvariablesorrequires
asmanydecisionsonthepartofthecook.Oil,mainingredient,coatingnotonlydoeseachofthesethingsneedtobecarefullythoughtabout,buteachofthemis
alsoconstantlychangingthroughoutthecookingprocess,briefthoughitmightbe.Nowondermostpeopleneverfry.Butbeforeyoudismissthetechniqueentirely,
remembertwothings:howdeliciousfriedfoodis,andthefactthatalloverthecountry,itisdonebypeoplewhoarenotyetoldenoughtovote.
Thefundamentaltruthoffryingisthatitisoneofthehottestformsofcookingthereis.Thatisthereasonfriedfoodshavesuchanicecrunch,anditisalsothereasonso
manypeopleareafraidofit.Togettothefirst,youmust

Page10
overcomethesecond.Butyouneedtounderstandalittleabouthowheatworks.Thoughhighertemperaturesmightbereachedinroastingmosthomeovensgoup
toatleast500degrees,whilemostoilsbegintosmokeatabout400degreesitisreallyafarcoolerformofcooking.
Thatsoundscontradictory,butonlybecauseweusuallythinkofheatsolelyintermsoftemperature,wheninrealitytemperatureisnotreallyareliableguidetohowhot
somethingis.Thinkaboutit:youcanstickyourhandina500degreeoven,butyoudnevertrythatwitheven200degreeoil.Whyisthat?Heatisenergy,the
movementofmolecules.Thehottersomethingis,thefasterthosemoleculesaremoving.Somethingheatsupenergyistransferredwhenthosespeedylittle
moleculesbumpintoit,settingitsmoleculesinmotion.Temperaturemeasureshowfastthosemoleculesaremoving.Thatisimportant,butequallyifnotmore
importantishowmanyofthosemoleculesthereareinacertainspace.Putmostsimply,themoremoleculesthereare,themorequicklyheatistransferred.Thisiscalled
conduction.Ina500degreeoven,theairmoleculesaremovingveryfastindeed,butrelativelyspeaking,therearentverymanyofthem.Yourhandwillneedtobehit
bymanysecondsworthbeforeitwillbegintoheatuptoatemperaturethatfeelsuncomfortable.Becauseoilissodenseithassomanymoremoleculesinasimilar
spaceittransfersheatmuchmorequickly.
Watertransfersheatmorequicklythanairaswell,thoughnotnearlysoquicklyasoil.Besidesthat,becauseitislessdensethanoil,waternotonlyconductsheatless
efficiently,itselfregulatestheheataswell.Whenwaterreachesacertaintemperature,themoleculesaremovingsofastthatthewaterisntstickyenoughtoholdthem
together.Whenthesemoleculesbegintoescapeintotheatmosphere,thewatercangetnohotter.Thisiscalledtheboilingpoint,anditis212degreesatsealevel.
Thoughoilwillboiltoo,thathappensonlyintheory.Practicallyspeaking,oilwillbegintoburnwellbeforeitreachestheboilingpoint.

Page11
Sothefirstthingacookneedstoknowaboutfryingisthatitisextremelyefficient.Itcooksfoodsveryquickly.Asliceofcarrotthatmaytake20minutestocookby
roastingor10minutesbyboilingwillfryinonly2to3minutes.Forthisreason,friedfoodsareusuallycutintofairlysmallpieces.Otherwise,theywouldnevercook
throughtothecenterbeforethoseblisteringhottemperaturesburnedtheoutside.
Oilsarefats,andallfatsarenotthesame.Theyvaryincompositionaccordingtotheirsource.Chemically,allfatsarecomposedofcarbon,oxygenandhydrogen.This
isthesamecombinationthatmakesupcarbohydrateslikeflourandsugar,buttheratiooftheingredientsisdifferent.Fatsaremuchhigherinhydrogenthanincarbon
andoxygen.Howmuchhigherinhydrogenisimportant.Theamountofhydrogenafatcontainsdeterminesitssaturation.Fatscontaininglotsofhydrogenaresaidtobe
highlysaturated.Sincetheirchemicalstructuresaremoredenselypacked(containingmorehydrogen),highlysaturatedfatsarefirmeratlowertemperatures.Oilsare
generallyamongtheleastsaturatedfatsand,bydefinition,oilsareliquidatroomtemperature.Animalfatsareamongthemostsaturated.Atroomtemperature,they
aresolid.(Butallanimalfatsarenotequallysaturatedchilledcookedbeefisstifferthanchilledcookedporkbecausebeeffatismoresaturated.)Evenliquidfats,
though,varygreatlyinsaturation.Forexample,somethinglikerapeseedoil(calledcanolainthiscountry)containsonlyabout6percentsaturatedfat,whilecornoil,
oliveoilandsoybeanoilarebetween13and15percentsaturated.Vegetableoilscanbeartificiallyalteredtoincreasetheirsaturationtoo.Shorteningishydrogenated
vegetableoiloiltowhichmorehydrogenhasbeenaddedanditcontainsabout25percentsaturatedfat.Somevegetablefatsareassaturatedasanimalfats.
Palmoil,forexample,ismorethanhalfsaturatedfataboutthesameasbutter.
Saturatedfatissomethingwehearalotaboutbecauseofits

Page12
reputedroleinheartdisease.Thishasbeendemonstratedstatistically(peoplewhosedietsarehighinsaturatedfataremorelikelytohaveheartproblems),thoughthe
mechanismbywhichthishappensisnotclear.Thetheoryisthatsaturatedfatsincreasethelevelofcholesterolintheblood,whichinturnincreasestheriskofheart
disease.Tocooks,saturatedfatsareimportantbecause,generallyspeaking,themorehighlysaturatedthefryingoil,thecrisperthecrustofthecookedfood.This
explainsthepopularityoflardandotheranimalfatsasfryingmediums(theBelgians,whoarereputedtomakethebestfrenchfriesintheworld,swearbyhorsefat).
Fryingisfurthercomplicatedbythefactthatoilisnotastaticingredient.Itisconstantlychangingthroughoutthecookingprocessindeed,evenbeforeitbegins.The
qualityoftheoilyoustartwithisvitaltothequalityofthefoodyoufinishwith.Andthatqualityisaffectedbyavarietyoffactors,rangingfromthingsasobviousas
contaminationtothingsassubtleaslightandair.Almostfromthetimeoilsarecreated,whentheyaregroundfromtheiroriginatingseedorrenderedfromananimalfat,
theyarechanging.Thechangesaresubtleatfirstandwithproperstoragecanremainundetectableforalongtime.Buteventually,evenwithouteverbeingopenedor
evenpouredfromthebottle,oilwillbegintodevelopoffsmellsandtastes.
Thefirststepinrancidityistechnicallycalledreversion.Youllrecognizeitbyafishyaromaandflavor.Rancidityhasmanycauses.Oilcanturnrancidbecauseithas
absorbedoutsideodors.Itcangorancidbecauseoftracemineralsandenzymesthatoccurnaturallywithintheoil.Itcangorancidbecauseofmicroorganismsthatare
introducedfromtheoutside.Anditcangorancidbecauseofexposuretooxygen,lightandmoisture.Toavoidrancidity,usethefreshestpossibleoilandstoreitina
dark,coolplace.Trytokeepoilinacontainerthatisjustbigenoughtoholdit,tominimizeexposuretooxygen.

Page13
Thesechangesareexaggeratedwhenoilisheatedandusedforcooking.Whenyouaddevenadropofwaterwhichistheprimaryconstituentofmostfoodsto
heatedoil,theoilbeginstohydrolyze.Brieflyput,thewaterbeginstobreakthefatcellsdownintocomponentparts.Someofthesepartsthenreformintonew
substancescalledpolymers.Theyareresponsiblefortheringofplasticlikematerialyousometimesfindaroundtheinsideofthepanjustabovethesurfaceofthefrying
oil.Polymerscanbetheverydeviltoscrubout,buttheycanalsobequiteuseful.Therepeatedslowheatingofoilthatscalledforintheseasoningofacastironskillet
isreallyjustacontrolledbuildupofpolymers.Inthiscase,theyformanaturalwaterproof,nonsticksurface.
Otherchangeshappenaswell.Eachoilhasaspecificsmokingpoint.Thisisthetemperatureatwhichtheoilbeginstobreakdownintofreefattyacidsandachemical
calledacrolein.Acroleinisalmostimmediatelyvaporizeditliterallygoesupinsmoke.Itisalsoextremelycaustic.Thesmokewillburnyoureyes,andfoodcooked
initwillscorchandhaveabitterflavor.Thisisaconcernevenwithfreshoil,sincemostoilshavesmokingpointsinthe400to450degreerange,perilouslycloseto
thetemperatureatwhichmostfryingisdone350to375degrees.Astheoilsbreakdownduringcooking,though,thesmokingpointdropsevenfurther.Obviously,
atacertainpointtheoilmustbediscardedandreplacedwithfresh.Thoughthesechangesarenaturalandinevitable,youcanpreservethequalityofyourcookingoilby
makingsurethatitstaysascleanaspossibleandbycookinginapotthatisnarrowerthanitistalltolimittheoilsexposuretooxygen.
Ontheotherhand,thisoilybreakdownisnotawhollybadthing.Infact,toacertainextent,fryingwouldbeimpossiblewithoutit.Haveyouevernoticedhow
somethingfriedinabsolutelyfreshoilnevercompletelybrowns?Infact,itmaynotcookthroughatall.Itsoundscrazy,butthatsbecausetheoilistoofresh.The
reasongoesbacktothebasicfactthatoilandwater

Page14
dontmix.Sincemostfoodsaremadepredominantlyofwater,thatposesanobviousproblem.Oddasitmaysound,fryingisessentiallyadryingprocess.Whena
pieceoffoodisdroppedintohotoil,theheatevaporatesanymoistureontheoutsideofthefood.Sincethefoodissurroundedbyoil,themoistureformsaverythin
barrierbetweentheoilandwhatisbeingfried.Freshoilcantpenetratethatbarrier.
Fortunately,someofthebyproductsofthebreakdownofoilarechemicalcompoundscalledsoaps.Thesearenotthesameasthesoapyouusetowashyourhands,
buttheyaresimilar.Traditionally,soapwasmadefromrenderedanimalfats.Whathandsoapdoesisenablewatertopenetrategreasesoitcanbewashedaway.The
chemicalsoapscreatedinthefryingprocessbehavesimilarly.Theypenetratethewaterbarrierandbringtheoilintodirectcontactwiththefoodbeingcooked,allowing
bothbrowningandthoroughcooking.Forthatreason,oldtimecooksalwayssavedaladlefulofoldoiltoaddtothefreshbatchwhentheyfriedfoods.Thisisahabit
worthcopying.Itdoesnttakemuch,justatablespoonorsoofoldoilpercupofnew.
Moreiscertainlynotbetter,inthiscase.Youcanthavesoapswithoutpolymers,andweknowwhathappenswhenyougettoomanyofthose.Infact,scientistswho
studyfryinghaveidentifiedfiveparticularstagesofoillife.Breakinoilisbrandnewitwontcookwelluntilithasbrokendownalittle.Freshoilcooksalittle
better.Optimumoilis,well,justwhatitsays.Degradingoilisinthetransitiontobeingspoiled.Runawayoilisdarkandsmellsbaditispronetosmokingandeven
burning.Byexaminingapieceoffriedfood,youcantellalotabouttheoilsage.Youcanlearntoreadafrenchfry.Afrycookedinbreakinoilwillbewhiteonthe
surfaceandrawatthecenter.Itwillbemissingthosedelicioussmellsandflavorsweassociatewithfriedfoods.Iffriedinfreshoil,thepotatowillhavebeguntobrown
attheedgesandbeslightlycrisp.Thecenterwillbemorethoroughlycooked.Iftheoilwasoptimum,thefrywillbegoldenbrownandcrisp,

Page15
withrigidedges.Itwillbecompletelycookedandsoftatthecenter,andperhapsmostimportant,itwillhavethefullydevelopedsmellsofcookedpotatoandoilthat
weassociatewithagreatfrenchfry.Iftheoilhadbeguntodegrade,thefrywillbealittledarkerandmayhavespotsofscorching.Itwillbelimpandgreasytothe
touch.Withrunawayoil,thecolorwillbereallydarkandthefryreallygreasy.Youllnoticeithascollapsedinward.Itwillsmellandtastelikebadoil.
Youcanseethesechangesintheoilwhileyourefryingifyouwatchthebubblesthatcomeupwhenthefoodisadded.Veryfreshoilisverystickyinscientific
terms,ithashighsurfacetension.Thebubblesthatcomeupwillbeverysmall.Astheoilbreaksdown,surfacetensiondecreases(theoilbecomeslesssticky)andthe
bubblesbecomelarger.Thiscontinuestothepointthat,inrunawayoil,thebubblesmayactuallybesolargeandtightlystackedthattheyresemblefoam.
Whenitcomesrightdowntoit,eachofthoseeffectsisdirectlytraceablebacktothatdancebetweenoilandwater.Payattentionthenexttimeyoufrysomething.
Whenyoudropthefoodintothehotfat,therewillbeagiantwhooshingofboilingbubbles.Ofcourse,thisisnotactualboilingrememberthatoilcantboilbeforeit
burns.Itistherushofmoistureleavingthefoodandevaporatingoncontactwiththehotoil(ifyoulookclosely,sometimesyoucanevenmakeoutthemoisturebarrier
whenyouarefryingsomethingthatisreallywatery).Thissuddenevaporationiswhatformsthecrispcrustontheoutsideofthefoodfryingisdrying.Asthecrust
forms,theoilpenetratesthesamelittleholesandtunnelsfromwhichthewaterevaporated.Atthesametime,theheatpenetratesmoredeeplyintothefood.The
moisturefromwithinthefoodturnstosteam.Thatsteamtriestoleavethefood,travelingtotheexterior.Atacertainpoint,dependingonthetemperatureandonthe
foodbeingfried,theexitingsteamandthepenetratingoilcollideandreachanuneasybalance.That

Page16
iswhyfoodthatisproperlyfriedhasacrispexteriorbutaverydelicateinterior.Inreality,theoutsideisfried,buttheinsideissteamed.
Ifthetemperatureistoolow,thepressurefromthesteamwontbeenoughtopushbacktheoil.Youllwindupwithgreasyfood.Ifthetemperatureistoohigh,the
foodwillburnontheoutsidebeforethesteamhashadachancetocookthecenter.Butwithinthosetemperatureextremes,fryingisactuallyafairlyforgivingprocess.
Scientistshavefoundthatneithercookingtimenoroilinessisaffectedaslongasthefryingtemperatureremainsbetween350and375degrees.Thisisagoodthing,
becauseasanycookwilltellyou,regulatingtheheatoftheoilisprobablythehardestthingaboutfrying.
Whenyouaddfoodtohotoil,itiscommonforthetemperatureoftheoiltodropbyasmuchas50degreesbecauseoftheenormousdifferenceintemperature
betweentheoilandthefood.Forthisreason,itisbesttobegincookingwhentheheatisintheupperrange.Thatway,theoilwillstillbeatagoodtemperatureafter
thedrop.Thisrulevariessomewhatdependingonthetypeandsizeofthepiecesbeingfried.Achickenlegwilltakelongertocookthroughthanafrenchfry,soa
slightlylowertemperatureisnecessaryinordertoavoidburningtheoutsidebeforetheinsideisdone.Itisalsoimportantthatyoudontcrowdthefoodintheoilduring
frying.Themorefoodyouaddtotheoil,thegreaterthetemperaturedropwillbe.Thisiswhyfastfoodfryershavesuchanenormousoilcapacityyouneedthat
muchfattobalancetheamountoffoodbeingfried,tomaintaingoodfryingtemperatureswhileprocessingpoundsoffriesatatime.
Togetanideaofjusthowcomplicatedallofthisfryingcanbe,considerthesimplefrenchfry.Startwiththepotato.Notonlymustitbearusset,orbaking,potato,itis
betterifitisanoldone.Reallygoodfrycookseventesttheirpotatoesspecificgravity(thisinvolvesfloatingpotatoesinbrine)theonesthatsinkhavethehighest
specificgravityandwillmakethebestfrenchfries.There

Page17
aredifferentschoolsofthoughtwhenitcomestotheoil,butitisgenerallyagreedthatsaturatedfatsmakethebestfrenchfries,andtherealspecificistslovehorsefatin
particular.Furthermore,agoodfrenchfryisfriedtwice.Thefirstpass,atabout350degrees,cooksthepotatothroughandmakesitlightandfluffy.Thesecondfrying,
rightbeforeserving,isdoneatahighertemperature375to385degreesandgivesthefryitsfinalbrowning.
Whilemanyvegetablesandevensomemeatscanbefriedperfectlyjustastheyare,othersneedsomekindofprotection.Letsnotforgetthatfryingisaprettyviolent
typeofcooking.Theverythingsthatmakeanicecrispfrenchfrycanruinadelicatepieceoffish.Suchfoodsneedtobedippedinsomekindofprotectivecoating
beforetheyaresubjectedtothecruelheatofthedeepfryer.Itisnecessarybothtocreateagoodcrispcrustandtokeeptheinteriorfromdryingout.Thecrust,as
wevesaid,isthedriedoutsurfaceoffriedfood.Butitismorethanthat.Togetagoodcrust,itisimperativethatallthemoistureberemoved,notonlybecausethat
providescrispnessbutalsobecausethecaramelizationofsugarsandthesetofreactionsthatcreatebrowninginfoodcannotbeginuntilthetemperaturehaspassed300
degrees.Rememberthatwaterselfregulatesitstemperaturetotheboilingpoint212degrees.Boiledfoodwillnotbrown,soforanybrowningtohappen,allthe
watermustbeevaporated.
Thekindofcoatingyouusedependsonboththefoodbeingfriedandthefinalresultyouwant.Coatingscanbeassimpleasadustingofflour,ortheycanbe
complicated.Cornmeal,groundnuts,differentkindsofflourandbreadcrumbsareafewofthechoicescookshaveattheirdiscretion,dependingonwhatkindofdish
isbeingprepared.Inaddition,manycoatingsalsoincludealiquidofonekindoranother,bothtohelpthecoatingsticktothefoodandtoprovideamoreinteresting
texture(afterthemoistureisdrivenoff,therearemanymorelittlenooksandcranniestogetcrisp).

Page18
Wetcoatingsarecalledbatters.Athinpasteofflourandwatermakesabatterthatgivesadelicate,barelyperceptiblecrispnessyetstillprotectsthesurfaceofthefood
beingfried.Beerisfrequentlyusedasaliquidinbattersbecauseitssugarsandproteinsaddapleasantflavorandhelptomakeabeautifulgoldenbrowncoatingwhen
fried.Morecomplicatedbattersincludeeggsaswell.Eggsnotonlyprovidemoisturebutcontainproteinsthataidinthebrowningprocess.Manytimes,coatingsare
layered.Forexample,oneofthemostcommonwaystofryfoodistodustitlightlyinflour,dipitinamixtureofbeateneggandwaterandthenrollitinflourorbread
crumbs.Thisproducesaneventhicker,crispercoating.Sometimesleaveningagents,suchasbeateneggwhitesorbakingsodaorpowder,areaddedtomakethe
cookedcoatinglighterandpuffier.
Whatevertypeofcoatingyoureusing,makesurethatitisfirmlyattachedtothefood.Nothingbreaksoildownfasterthanparticlesofbatterfloatingfreeandburning.
Manycooksrefrigeratefoodbrieflybeforefryingtofirmupthebatter.Attheleast,youshouldgivethefoodavigorousshaketobreakfreeanyloosebits.Anddont
saltbatters.Thesaltcanfalloutofthebatterandspeedthebreakdown.Instead,saltfoodbeforethebattergoesonandthenagainafterthefoodhasbeenfried.
Sofar,wevebeentalkingaboutdeepfrying,whichiswhatmostpeoplethinkoffirst.Butthereareothertypesoffryingthatuselessfatandcanbegroupedunderthe
labelshallowfrying.Inthiscountry,thereisapopularformofcookingcalledpanfrying.Thisisthewaysomefriedchickeniscooked(andwhyapieceofmeat
cookedthesamewayiscalledchickenfried).Panfryinguseslessoilthandeepfrying,aboutaninchdeep.Thatsnotenoughtocoverthefoodcompletely,sothe
processisactuallyacombinationoffrying(thepartofthemeatthatscovered)andamoistkindofroasting(thepartthatsabovetheoil).Inessence,thehotmoisture
createdbythecookingprocessisdrivenupward

Page19
throughthefood,fromthepartthatisbathedinoiltothepartthatisnot,whereitcanevaporate.Becausethisisasomewhatmoremoderatetypeoffrying,itisuseful
forthingsthatneedtobecookedlonger,likethickerortoughercutsofmeat.Theycanbrownnicelyandformagoodcrustbutstillcookallthewaythrough.
Thingscanbefriedinonlyatablespoonortwoofoilaswell.Weusuallycallthatsauting,whichcomesfromtheFrenchwordsauter(tojump).Thisderivationhas
nothingtodowiththeactualactoffryingbutratherwiththewaythefoodisstirred,withaquickjerkofthepanthatpopsitupintheair.Typically,wesautsomething
foroneoftworeasons.Sometimessautingispartofwhatcouldbethoughtofasprecooking.Whenwecookonionsandgarlictogetherinoliveoil,forexample,we
rarelystopthere.Usuallywethenproceedtomakeasauceorasteworasoup.Theonionsandgarlicaresautedtocombineandmellowtheirflavors.Tastearaw
onionandthenapieceofonionthatsbeensauted,andyoullseethedifference.Thatbriefinitialcookinginjustalittlebitofhotoilevaporatestheheatvolatileacidity
intheonion.Inotherwords,ittakesawayitssting.Ifyoutastesomeoftheoilinwhichtheonionwascooked,youllfindthatithaspickedupsomeoftheonions
flavorsaswell.
Dependingontherecipeandhowyouwanttheonioncooked,sautingcanbedoneeitherquicklyandlightlyorslowlyanddeeply.Usually,though,evenwhenwesay
werebrowninganonion,werereallyjustwiltingitsofteningitsoitsflavorsdevelopfromthesharpbiteofrawtothemoremellowanddevelopedtasteswethink
ofascooked.Atthispoint,theonionwillbetranslucent,notbrowned.Butyoucanalsocookanonionuntilitis,quiteliterally,brown.Thistakeslowheatandspecial
care.Ratherthan5minutes,deeplybrowningonionscantakefrom45minutestoanhour.Throughoutthecooking,theonionsmustbestirredfrequentlyandtheheat
monitoredclosely.Hereswhy:whatyouredoingwhenyourebrowningonionsthiswayiscara

Page20
melizingthem.Inotherwords,yourebrowningtheonionsnaturalsugars.Theprocessbeginsatatemperatureofabout300degrees,butifthetemperaturegoestoo
muchabovethat,youruntheriskofscorchingthesugars.Thatwillgivetheonionsandthedishapowerfullybitterflavor.Thisdegreeofcontrolledheat
obviouslycouldneverbeaccomplishedbydeepfrying.Theonionswouldbeeitherscorchedontheoutsideorrawontheinside.Mostprobably,theywouldbeboth.
Thatswhywhenyoudeepfryonionsasinonionringsyoumustfirstcloaktheminathickbatter.
Inthiskindofshallowfrying,theoilservestwopurposes:totransmitheatandtocontributeflavor.Infact,though,somelowfatextremistsdoawaywiththefat
entirely.Ifyouarepatientandhaveheavypans,youcancookvegetablesoververylowheat,covered,withlittleornofatatall.Thisiscalledsweating,anditrelies
onthedirectheatofthepantocookthevegetables.Metalisalessefficienttransmitterofheatthanoil,andinordertoavoidscorching,thevegetablesmustbecooked
oververylowheatandstirredconstantlykindoflikeanextremeversionofsauting.Ofcourse,sincethereisnooilinvolved,thereisalsonominglingofflavors.
Sautingcanalsobeafinalstepinthecookingprocess.Vegetablesthathavebeenblanchedinboilingwaterarefrequentlysautedtofinish.Youcanthinkofthisas
beingalmostakintomakingasaladthecookedvegetablesarebeingdressedwithflavoredoil.Infact,theyareoftenblessedwithafinalsquirtoflemonorvinegar
too,strengtheningtheanalogy.Almostalways,theactualcookingthesofteningofthetoughcellularmaterialandthemellowingoftheharshrawflavorsisdone
bytheboiling,notthefrying.Sometimes,though,thefryingisextendedtoallowthecaramelizationofsomeofthesugarsinthevegetables.
Ofcourse,sautingisnotlimitedtovegetables.Someofthemostbasicdishesinalmostanycuisinearesautedmeats.Inthiscase,onlythemostdelicatecutsare
used,sincethecookingwill

Page21
bynecessitybebrief.Thisisfrequentlyatwostageprocess.First,themeatisbrowned,todevelopflavor,thenotheringredients(usuallyincludingaliquid)areadded
tofinishthecooking.Welltalkmoreaboutthisinthechapteroncookingmeat.Itsasfarfromthesimplefrenchfryasyoucanget,butmanyofthebasicprinciples
arethesame.

Page22

deepfrying
Becauseoftheintenseheatinvolved,deepfryingisbestusedforsmallpiecesoffood.Bigpiecestaketoolongtocookthroughandwillburnontheoutsidebefore
theyaredone.Becausethecookinggoessoquickly,onlyverytenderfoodsshouldbedeepfried.

Asimpleflourdustingisintendedmainlytoabsorbexcessmoisturefromthesurfaceofthefoodbeingfried.Itgivesathin,delicatecoatingthatisbarelyperceptible
asacrust.Becauseofthelackofsugarsandaminoacidsinflour,itwontbrownmucheither.Neitherdoesitprovidemuchprotectiontothefoodbeingfried.

Addingwatertoflourtoformabatterallowsmoreflourtoadheretothesurfaceofthefood.Thisresultsinathickercrusthowthickdependsonhowmuchwater
youadd.Athinbatterspreadstheflourmorethinlythanathickone.Athickerbatterwillbecrunchierandwillprovidebetterprotectionfordelicatefoods.Butwater
byitselfdoesnotaddthesugarsoraminoacidsessentialforbrowning.Thiscoatingwillbepale.

Togetareallybrownedcrust,useabatterthatcontainsaminoacidsand/orsugars.Eggsarehighinproteinandwillworkwell.Beerhasbothproteinandsugars
itwillbrownevenbetter.

Keepliquidbattersicecoldtoimprovetheirstickinesstheirabilitytoadheretothefood.

Somebattersincludeleaveningagentsbakingpowderorbakingsoda,yeastorbeateneggwhites.Thesecausethebattertopuffandexpandwhenheated,
providingthethickest,mostprotectivecoatingfordelicatefoods,thoughtheymaynotbeascrispasothers.

Breadcrumbs,beinglargerandmoreirregularlyshapedthanflour,increasethesurfaceareaofthecrustandwillbecrisperthanflour.Ontheirown,theywillnot
sticktofood,though,soyoullneedtouseaseriesofcoatings:flourtodrythefood,

Page23

beateneggtoprovidethestickinessandbreadcrumbstogivethecrust.

Saltwilldropoutofabatterandbreakdownoilfasterthanalmostanythingelse.Saltfoodtobefriedbeforeapplyingthebatterandthenafterthefrying.

Reallyfreshoilwillnotcookfoodaswellasoilthathasbrokendownalittle.Ifyoureusingfreshoil,bepreparedtotossoutthefirstbatchoffood.Itwillprobably
belighterincolorthanyouwantandmaynothavecookedallthewaythrough.Ifyoudeepfryalot,itsworthkeepingalittleoldoilinthepantry.Addinga
tablespoonorsoofoldoilpercupoffreshoilwillimprovethewayitcooksremarkably.

Highlysaturatedfats,suchasanimalfatsorshortening,givethecrispestcrusts.

Usemoreoilthanyoumightthinknecessary.Technically,youneedonlyenoughoiltofloatthefoodbeingfried,butthemoreoilyouuse,themoreretainedheatyou
willhave(20piecesofpotatowillabsorbtheavailableheatfrom1cupofoilfasterthanfrom2cups),givingyouabiggercushionforcooking.Ontheotherhand,do
notoverfillthepotwithoilonehalftotwothirdsfullisaboutright.Whencoldfoodisaddedtohotoil,thereisagiantwhooshoffoamingoilthatcouldspillover
thesidesofapotthatistoofull.

Useadeepfryingthermometertocheckthetemperatureoftheoil.Someexpertsclaimtobeabletoseeahazeformingoverthesurfaceoftheoilwhenthe
temperatureisright.Thatmaybeso,butadeepfryingthermometeristheonlywaytobesure.Becarefultosetitupsothebulbatthebottomrestsjustabovethe
bottomofthepanandisnottouchingit.Thenitwillbetakingthetemperatureoftheoil,notthemetal.Ifyoudonthaveadeepfryingthermometer,youcandropina
smallpieceofbreadforacruderestimate.Itshouldbeginsizzlingimmediatelyandwillbecomelightbrownin5to10seconds.

Page24
Bepatient.Donotaddtoomanypiecesoffoodtotheoilatthesametime.Rememberthateachonewillabsorbsomeoftheheatandlowerthetemperaturealittle.
Becauseofthespreadineffectivedeepfryingtemperatures(between350and375degrees,resultswillbelargelythesame),thereissomemarginforerror,butthat
willdisappearquicklyiftoomuchfoodisaddedtothepot.

Servefriedfoodsassoonaftercookingaspossible.Thisisespeciallytrueforbattercoatedfoods,becausethebatterwillbeginreabsorbingmoisturefromthefood
immediatelyafteritisremovedfromthehotoilandwillquicklybecomesoggy.

Page25
tuscanpotatochips
TheseareneitherTuscannorpotatoesnorchips.Butyoullgettheidea.Theintensedryingactionoffryinggivesthesefreshpastastripscrunch.Thepastacan,of
course,alsoberolledoutbyhand,butthatisaspecialskillthattakeslotsofpractice.Apastamachineyoucangetoneforlessthan$40isaverygood
investment.

1
2
2

cupsallpurposeflour
Salt
tablespoonoliveoil
largeeggs
tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshrosemaryleaves
Vegetableoilfordeepfrying

Puttheflourinafoodprocessor,addteaspoonsaltandtheoliveoilandpulsetocombine.Addtheeggsandcontinuepulsinguntilthemixtureformsaballofdough
thatridesaroundontopoftheblade,1to2minutes.Removethedoughandpressittoflattenitslightly.Wrapittightlyinplasticwrapandsetitasideatroom
temperaturefor30minutes,orrefrigerateaslongasovernight.(Thiswillrelaxtheglutenandmakethedougheasiertorollout.)
Cutthedoughintoquartersandcover3ofthequarterswithadampteatowel.Workingwithonequarteratatime,feedthedoughthroughthewidestsettingofapasta
machinetoformasheet.Foldthesheetinthirds,likealetter,andfeeditthroughthemachineagain,onthesamesetting.Continueuntilthedoughfeelssatiny.Lightly
flourthesheetbetweenrollingsifitbeginstofeelsticky.
Adjustthemachinetothenextsettingandfeedthedoughthroughitagain.Repeatuntilyouhaverolleditthroughthenexttothinnestsetting.Layoutthedoughsheet
andsprinkleevenlywithonequarteroftherosemary.Folditlengthwiseinhalfandrunitthroughthemachineoncemore.Setitasideonaflouredsurfaceandrepeat
withtherestofthedough.

Page26
Onceallthedoughhasbeenrolledout,cutthesheetsintofettuccinewidthstripsandthencutthestripsintothreetofourinchlengths.
Heatthevegetableoilto375degrees.In4or5batches,frythepastastripsuntilpuffedandgolden,1to2minutes.Removeanddrainonpapertowels.Saltlightlyand
serveimmediately.
6servings

Page27
stuffedzucchiniflowers
Friedzucchiniflowersareoneoftheclassicusesofpastella,theItalianflourandwaterbatter.Themixtureshouldbethinenoughthatitbarelycoatstheflowersyou
shouldbeabletoseetheorangeofthepetalsthroughthecrust.Theflowerscanalsobefriedwithoutafilling.ThisversioncameaboutonadaywhenIwasplanningto
serveamozzarellasaladforanotherappetizerandaccidentallyaddedtoomuchgarlictothebocconcini.Whenencasedinafriedflower,theflavors,toostrongontheir
own,werejustright.

1
2

2
24
2

(8ounce)packagesmallfreshmozzarellaballs(bocconcini,cilieginiorovalini)
garliccloves,minced
teaspooncrushedredpepper
teaspoonsoliveoil
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
zucchiniflowers(about1pound),preferablymaleflowersthatdonthavethezucchiniattached
cupsallpurposeflour
Approximatelycupwater
Vegetableoilfordeepfrying
buncharugula
Gratedzestoflemon

Cutthemozzarellaballsinhalf.Combinethemwiththegarlic,crushedredpepper,oliveoilandsaltandpeppertotaste.Marinateatroomtemperatureforatleast30
minutes.
Soakthezucchiniflowersinalargebowlofcoldwatertocleanandfreshenthem.Removethemoneatatime,gentlypatdry,andopentheblossomswiththetipof
yourfinger.Carefullyplaceamozzarellapiecedeepinsideeachblossom.Placetheblossomsonatray.
Whenalltheflowersarestuffed,whisktogetherinalargebowltheflourandenoughwatertomakeabatterasthickasheavycream.

Page28
Preheattheovento200degrees.Heatthevegetableoilto375degrees.Dredgetheblossomsoneatatimeinthebatter,turningtheflowersothetopsealsitself,and
immediatelyplacetheblossominthehotoil.Donotcrowdthepot.Cookuntiltheoilstopsbubblingandtheflowersbegintobrown,5to7minutes.Turntheflowers
overandcookforanother2to3minutes,browningthesecondside.Removetheflowersfromtheoil,drainwellandplaceonabakingsheetlinedwithoilabsorbent
paper(abrownpaperbagworkswell).Saltlightlyandkeepthemwarmintheovenuntilallthefryingisdone.
Washanddrythearugulawell.Arrangeitonaservingplatter.Placethefriedzucchiniflowersontopandsprinklewiththelemonzest.Serveimmediately.
8to10servings

Page29
friedlittlefish
Inthisdish,abatterformswhenthemilkdrenchedfisharetossedwithflour.Ifyouneedproofthatdeepfryinginvolvesdrying,trythese.Thefishturnintocrisplittle
bitesalmostinstantly.Whitebaitareverysmallfish,thesizeofminnows.Ifyoucanfindthem(probablyinAsianmarkets),usethemwholetheydontneedtobe
cleaned.Ifyoucantfindwhitebaitorotherminnowsizedfish,substitutethetinywhitefishsoldinAsianfishmarketsasricefishorusepiecesofsquid.

poundwhitebait,leftwhole,orcalamari(squid),cleanedandcutintoinchpieces
cupmilk
Vegetableoilfordeepfrying
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
Allpurposeflourfordredging
lemon,cutinto6wedges

Soakthefishorcalamariinthemilkforatleast1hourintherefrigerator.
Heattheoilto375degrees.Drainthefishorcalamariwellandseasonlightlywithsaltandpepper.Dredgethem,asmallhandfulatatime,intheflour.Immediatelyadd
themtothehotoilandfryuntiltheyarecrispandbrown,30to60seconds,turningasneeded.Removethemfromtheoilanddrainonabakingsheetlinedwithoil
absorbentpaper(abrownpaperbagworkswell).Sprinklethefishorcalamariwithsaltandservewiththelemonwedges.
6servings

Page30
peachfritters
Thesefrittersarefriedataslightlylowertemperaturethansavoryfoodstoavoidscorchingthesugar.ThemacaroonlikeItaliancookiescalledamarettiareavailableat
Italiandelisandgrocersandsomesupermarkets.ThisisanadaptationofJamesBeardsrecipeforfruitfrittersinTheoryandPracticeofGoodCooking.Tomake
thecinnamonsugar,combinecupsugarand1teaspoongroundcinnamon.

2
2
2
1

1
4
1
2

cupsallpurposeflour
largeeggs,beaten
tablespoonsbutter,melted
cuplightflavoredbeer,atroomtemperature
teaspoonsalt
tablespoonCognac
largepeaches
tablespoonsugar
Vegetableoilfordeepfrying
cupscrushedamaretti(Italianalmondcookies)
Cinnamonsugar(seeabove)

Sifttheflourintoabowl.Beatintheeggs,butter,beerandsaltuntilsmooth.StirintheCognac.Coverandrefrigeratefor2to3hours.
Topeelthepeaches,dipthembrieflyinboilingwater,from30secondsto2minutes(ripepeacheswilltakeashortertime,firmerpeacheswilltakelonger).Remove
fromtheboilingwaterandimmediatelyplaceinanicewaterbathtostopthecooking.Theskinshouldslipoffeasily.Ifitdoesnt,returnthepeachestotheboiling
waterforanother15to30seconds.
Slicethepeeledpeachesfairlythick(aboutinch)intoalargebowl.Addthesugarandtosstomixwell.Setasidefor30minutes.

Page31
Heattheoilto350degrees.Puttheamaretticrumbsinashallowbowl.Dipthepeachesinthebatter,afewslicesatatime,thenrollthemintheamaretticrumbsand
fryuntilgoldenbrownonallsides,4to5minutes.Removefromtheoil,drainonpapertowelsandservehot,dustedwithcinnamonsugar.
6to8servings

Page32

shallowfrying(panfryingandsauting)
Foracrispsurface,itisimportanttoremoveasmuchmoisturefromthesurfaceofthefoodtobefriedaspossible.Adustingofflourwillabsorbthelastbit.Forthe
crispestcrust,usetheclassicflour/eggwash/breadcrumbcoatingusedfordeepfrying.

Becausethereislittleornoaddedmoisturepresentintoughervegetablesduringshallowfryingorsautingtobreakdowntheirtoughcellulosewalls,theyareusually
blanchedinboilingwaterfirstsotheywillcookthrough.

Becauseshallowfryingcookssoquickly,useonlyverytendercutsofmeat.

Fishisagoodcandidateforsauting,dustedonlyinalittleflour.Makesurethefatisveryhot.

Alwayssaltmeatbeforesautingthisdrawsjuicestothesurface,wheretheycancaramelizeandbrown.Ifpossible,letthemeatsitfor5minutesaftersaltingto
absorbtheflavor.

Usemoreoilthanyoumaythinkisnecessary.Thoughyoucansautsomethinginjustafilmofoil,youllgetabetter,moreevencrustifyouuseenoughoilthatthe
entirebottomsurfaceofthefoodbeingfriedcomesintocontactwithit.

Thoughtemperatureisnotascriticalforsautingasfordeepfrying,makesuretheoilishotenoughthatwhenyouaddthefood,yougetagoodsizzle.

Letthefoodremainincontactwiththeoillongenoughtobrown.Resistthetemptationtomovethefoodaroundtoomuch.Agoodshakeatthestartwillkeepitfrom
stickingafterthat,donttouchthefooduntilyourereadytoturnit.

Page33
Iffoodsticks,itisprobablybecauseeitherthereisnotenoughoilortheoilisnothotenough.

Agoodindicatorthatitistimetoturnmeatthatisbeingsautediswhenyouseebeadsofwhatlookslikebloodappearonthetop.Thesearemeatjuicesthathave
beendrivenfromthecenterbytheheatfrombelow.

Youcanmakeasimplesaucebyaddingalittleliquidtothepanafteryouveremovedthecookedfood.Pouroffalltheoil,thenreturnthepantotheheattobrown
thebitsoffoodthathavestucktothebottomofthepan.Whentheyrebrown,addtheliquidofchoice(water,stockorwine)andscrapethebottomofthepanwitha
spoonorspatulatoreleasetheflavorfulbrownedbits.Whenmostoftheliquidhasevaporated,leavingbehindjustaglaze,stirinacoupleoftablespoonsofbutteror
creamtoaddrichness,ifdesired.

Page34
goatcheesetart
withcaramelizedonionsandgreenolives

Cooktheonionslongandslowlytocaramelizethemsotheyturnsweetwithoutscorching.Coveringthemduringthefirstpartofthecookinghelpstowiltthemmore
quickly,butyoullwanttoremovethelidformostoftheprocesstoallowthemoisturetoevaporatesotheycanbrown.Bellpepperscanberoastedunderabroileror
overagasburner:cookthem,turningfrequently,untiltheskinisevenlyblackened,thensetthemasideinazipperlockplasticbagfor10minutestosteamandcool.
Thepaperyouterskinwillpeelrightoff.

CRUST

6
2
3

cupbreadflour
cupallpurposeflour
teaspoonsalt
tablespoons(stick)unsaltedbutter,chilledandcubed
tablespoonsoliveoil
tablespoonsicewater

CARAMELIZEDONIONS
8

yellowonions,thinlysliced
cupoliveoil
smallsprigfreshrosemary

Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
(5ounce)logfreshgoatcheese
cupchoppedpittedgreenolives
redbellpepper,roasted(seeabove),peeled,cored,seededandslicedintostrips

Makethecrust:Putthebreadflour,allpurposeflourandsaltinafoodprocessorandpulsetocombine.Addthebutterandoilandprocessuntiltheflourresembles
coarsecornmeal.Addthewaterandprocessjustuntilthedoughformsaball.Removefromthefood

Page35
processorandpressintoadisk.Wraptightlyandrefrigerateatleast1hourtoallowthedoughtorelax.
Meanwhile,preparetheonions:Combinetheonions,oilandrosemaryinalargeskillet.Coverandcookovermediumlowheatuntiltheonionsreleasetheirwater,
about15minutes.Stir,reducetheheattolowandcook,stirringfrequently,untiltheonionsbegintobrown,about1hour.Removethelidandcontinuecookingover
lowheat,stirringfrequently,untiltheonionsaredeepbrown,30to45minutes.Donotlettheonionsscorch.
Setastraineroverabowl.Removetherosemaryandturntheonionsintothestrainer.Letstanduntiltheonionsarethoroughlydrained.
Assemblethetart:Preheattheovento400degrees.
Removethedoughfromtherefrigerator.Onaflouredsurface,rollitouttoainchthickround.Fititintoa9inchtartpanwitharemovablebottom.Foldtheexcess
doughoveritselftomakeasturdyrim.
Spoontheonionsacrossthebottomofthecrust.Seasonlightlywithsaltandpepper.Dotthegoatcheeseovertheonions.Scattertheolivesoverthegoatcheeseand
arrangethepepperstripsoverall.
Bakeuntiltheedgesofthecrustarebrownedandthecheeseismelted,about45minutes.Coolbrieflytoallowthecheesetoset,thencutintowedgesandserve.
6servings

Page36
brusselssproutsandbacon
Thebrusselssproutsarefirststeamed,tokeepthemfromdevelopingthatnastymustardysmell,andthensauted.Theirpansauceisalmostlikeahotvinaigrette,with
theoilcomingfromthebaconfat.Itsimportanttocookthebaconslowlyovermediumlowheatsothatitrendersasmuchfataspossiblewithoutburning.

2
3

poundsbrusselssprouts
stripsbacon
cupredwinevinegar,plus12tablespoonsmore,ifdesired
Salt
cuppinenuts,toasted

Trimthebrusselssprouts,removinganyouterleavesthatareverydarkoraredamaged.TrimthedriedoutbaseofeachsproutandcutatoinchdeepXin
each.
Steamthesproutsoverrapidlyboilingwaterjustuntiltender,about5minutes(nolongerthan7minutes).Letcool,thencutthemintoquarters.Setaside.
Meanwhile,cutthebaconintothinstrips.Cookinaskilletovermediumlowheatuntilcrisp.Raisetheheattohigh,addthecupvinegarandcookuntilthevinegar
losesitsrawsmell,about3minutes.
Reducetheheatandaddthebrusselssprouts.Cookuntilthesproutsareheatedthrough.Seasontotastewithsaltandaddtheadditionalvinegar,ifdesired.Stirinthe
pinenutsandserve.
6servings

Page37
sautedgreenbeans
withgarlicandsage
Finishingthebeansinthehotoilallowstheflavoringstopenetratemorethantheywouldifyouaddedcoldoil,asforasalad.Thisisasimplerecipe,buttherearealot
ofvariations.Youcouldusemintorbasiltotasteinsteadofthesage.Youcouldsubstituteanykindofvinegarforthelemonjuice.Butthemainvariableisthegarlic.
Notonlycanyouchangetheflavorbyaddingmoreorlessthaniscalledfor,youcanalsochangeitbyvaryingwhenyouaddthegarlic.Therecipeaswrittenwillgive
youamoderatelystrong,brightgarlicflavor.Ifyoucookthegarlicintheoliveoilfirst,itwillbemoredevelopedbutsomewhatmuted.

1
2
1
3

poundgreenbeans,stemendstrimmed
tablespoonsoliveoil
garlicclove,minced
Salt
freshsageleaves,chopped
Juiceoflemon

Cookthebeansinplentyofrapidlyboilingsaltedwateruntiltheyareavibrantgreenandhavesoftenedtothepointthatthereisjustathreadofcrispnessleftatthe
center,about5minutes.Drainandimmediatelyplungethebeansintoalargebowloficewatertostopthecooking.Assoonastheyarecool,removethemfromtheice
wateranddrainonakitchentowel.Patdry.
Inalargeskillet,heattheoilovermediumheat.Addthebeans,givethematossandthenaddthegarlic.Cookuntilthegarlicisfragrantandthebeansarecooked
through,about5minutes.Seasontotastewithsalt.Addthesageandlemonjuice,tosstocombinewellandserveasasidedish.
4servings

Page38
crispskinnedsalmon
oncreamyleeksandcabbage

Ifyoudontcooksalmonproperly,theskinwindsupmoistandslimysomethingyoupeeloffandpushtothesideoftheplate.Buttheskincanbeoneofthestarring
features.Thesecretistocookitsoitcrispsandrendersthefatjustunderneathit.Thatway,theskinbecomescrispandflavorfultheperfectcounterpointtotherich
flesh.Cuttingshallowslashesintheskinallowsittorenderthefat.Tomaketheskinevencrispier,heresatrickIlearnedfromFrenchLaundrychefThomasKeller:
rubthebackofaknifeovertheskin,notcuttingit,butusingitlikeasqueegee.Thiscompressestheskinanddrivesmoisturetothesurface,whereitcanbewipedoff
withapapertowel.
SinceIlearnedthistechniqueforcookingsalmonfromPatriciaWellsandJoelRobuchonsSimplyFrench,Ihaveservedcrispskinnedsalmoninmanyways,oftenon
abedofstewedwhitebeans.Ittrulyisoneofthosekitchenbasicsyoucanuseagainandagaininmanydifferentforms.Here,cookingthecabbageinstageskeeps
someofitfairlycrunchy,whiletherestmeltsintoanearpuree.

2
1
1

4
33

largeleeks
(3pound)cabbage
slicebacon
teaspooncuminseeds
tablespoons(stick)butter
poundssalmonfillet,preferablycentercut,in1or2pieces
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
cupheavy(whipping)cream
tablespoonsvegetableoil

Trimthetoughgreentopsfromtheleeks,leavingonlythewhiteandpalegreenparts.Leavingtheleeksattachedattherootend,slicelengthwiseintoquarters.Rinse
wellundercoldrunningwateruntilallthesandandanymudaregone.Thinlyslicecrosswise.

Page39
Quarterthecabbage,removethetoughwhitecoreandthinlyslice.Slicethebaconintothincrosswisestrips.
Toastthecuminseedsinadrypanovermediumheat,shakingfrequently,untilfragrant,about5minutes.
Combinethebaconand2tablespoonsofthebutterinalargeskilletandcookovermediumhighheatuntilthebaconhasrendereditsfatandiscrisp,about5minutes.
Reducetheheattomedium,addtheleeksandthetoastedcuminandcookuntiltheleekssoften,about5minutes.Addhalfofthecabbageandcook,stirring,untilsoft,
about10minutes.Addhalfoftheremainingcabbageandcookuntilthatissoft,10moreminutes.
Whilethecabbageiscooking,preparethesalmon:Usingthebackofaknife,squeegeetheskinofthesalmonuntilyouseemoisturecomeoutandcollectonthe
knife.Wipetheknifeandthesalmondrywithpapertowels.Repeatuntilmoisturenolongerappears.Cutthesalmoninto8equalpieces.Seasonwithsaltandpepper
totasteonbothsidesandsetaside.
Addtheremainingcabbagetotheskillet,alongwiththecream.Cook,stirringoccasionally,untilliquidisnolongervisiblewhenthepanistilted.Seasontotastewith
salt.Addtheremaining2tablespoonsbuttertothecabbageandcookjustuntilthesaucethickens,lessthan1minute,andkeepwarm.
Meanwhile,heattheoilinawidenonstickskilletoverhighheat.Addthesalmonfilletsskinsidedownandcookuntiltheskinisverycrispandthefleshhaslightened
aboutonethirdofthewayuptheside,2to3minutes.Turnthefilletsoverandremovetheskilletfromthestovetofinishcookingofftheheatwhileyouassemblethe
plates.
Dividetheleekandcabbagemixtureevenlyamong8platesorshallowbowls.Placeasalmonfilletskinsideupontopofeach.Serveimmediately.
8servings

Page40
countryfriedchicken
Thisistheultimatepanfry.Theintenseheatoftheoilbrownsonesideofthechickenpieceswhiletheothermoreorlesssteams.Theresultischickenthathasacrisp
crustbutismoistinside.Aheavycastironskilletisbest,asitretainsheat,whichpreventstheoilfromcoolingdownverymuchwhenthechickenisadded.Youcan
substitutebuttermilkforthemilk.

1
2
1
1

(3to4pound)chicken,cutinto8servingpieces(2legs,2thighs,2wingsand2breasts)
Salt
cupsmilk
cupsallpurposeflour
teaspoonsfreshlygroundblackpepper
teaspooncayenne
Peanutoil,lardorvegetableshorteningforshallowfrying

Seasonthechickenlightlywithsaltandplaceinazipperlockplasticbag.Pourthemilkintothebag,sealandrefrigerateforatleast1hour.
Preheattheovento225degrees.
Combinetheflour,1teaspoonsalt,thepepperandcayenneinalargebrownpaperbag.
Addenoughoil,lardorshorteningtocomehalfwayupthesidesofalargeheavyskilletandheatoverhighheatuntilitisabout350degrees(apieceofchickendipped
inthefatwillsputternoisily).
Removethechickenlegsandthighsfromthemilkandgentlyshakeoffmostoftheexcessliquid.Addtotheflourmixtureandshakewelltocoatthoroughly.Remove
fromtheflourandplaceskinsidedowninthehotoil,beingcarefulnottoburnyourselfwithsplatters.Fryuntilthechickenisbrownedonthefirstside,about15
minutes.Keepacloseeyeontheheatonceyouveaddedthechickentothepan,youllprobablywanttowait3to5minutesfortheoiltoheat,thenreducetheheat
tomediumhigh.Turnthechickenandcookuntilbrownedonthesecondsideandnearlycookedthrough.Whenthe

Page41
darkmeatisdone,transferittoaracksetonacookiesheetlinedwithpapertowelsandkeepitwarmintheovenwhileyoucookthewhitemeat.
Removethechickenbreastsandwingsfromthemilk,shakegently,addtotheflourmixtureandshaketocoatwell.Addthechickenskinsidedowntothehotoiland
cookuntilwellbrownedonthefirstside,about10minutes.Turnandcontinuecookingontheothersideuntilbrownedandcookedthrough.Whenallthechickenis
done,serveimmediately.
2to4servings

Page42
panfriedchickenbreasts
withfreshtomatoes,greenolivesandrosemary

Thisdishdiffersfromfriedchickeninthatthebirdfinishescookingwithsomeliquid(inthiscase,fromthetomatoes).Itsatradeoff.Theskinwontbecrisp,butyoull
windupwithadeeplyflavoredsaucethatmarriesthetastesofthechickenandtheotheringredients.Servewithsteamedriceorbutterednoodles.

2
1
1

Salt
chickenbreasts
cupallpurposeflour
cupoliveoil
poundsplumtomatoes(about6tomatoes)
cupwholegreenolives
poundmushrooms,cleanedandquartered
garliccloves,minced
tablespoonredwinevinegar
teaspoonmincedfreshrosemary
Freshlygroundblackpepper

Saltthechickenbreastslightly.Placetheflourinalargebowlanddredgethechickenbreastsintheflour,tappingthemagainstthesideofthebowltoknockoffany
excess.Putonaplate.
Heattheoilinalargeskilletoverhighheatuntilthechickensizzleswhenyoutouchapiecetotheoil.Addthechickenskinsidedown,reducetheheattomediumand
cook,withoutdisturbing,untilwellbrownedonthefirstside,about10minutes.
Whilethechickeniscooking,cutoffthestemendofthetomatoes,thencutthemcrosswiseinhalf.Squeezeouttheseeds.Chopthetomatoesintolargediceandset
aside.
Turnthechickenoverandcookuntilyouseejuicesbegintobreakthroughthetopcrust,about5moreminutes.

Page43
Meanwhile,placetheolivesonacuttingboardandpressdownfirmlywithalargechefsknifetocrushthem.Oncetheyrecrushed,pickoutthepitsanddiscard.
Whenthechickenisdone,transferittoaplateandcoverlooselywithaluminumfoiltokeepwarm.Pouroffallbut1to2tablespoonsofthefatfromthepan,turnthe
heattohighandaddthemushrooms.Cook,stirring,untiltheybegintobrown,2to3minutes.Addthetomatoesandgarlicandcook,stirring,untilthetomatoesbegin
tofallapart.Addtheolives,vinegarandrosemaryandcookforanother2to3minutes.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.
Returnthechickentothepanskinsidedown,coverandcookuntilhotandcookedthrough,about5minutes.Servehot.
4servings

Page44
porkschnitzelwitharugulasalad
Thispanfryisagreatsimplesupperhotcrispcrust,tendermeatandcoolgreens.Thesaladisservedontopoftheporksothatitwarmsslightly,releasingits
perfume,butdoesntwilt.Youcanmakethisrecipewithmanycutsofmeat,includingvealcutletsorslicesfromporktenderloinorbuttorturkeybreast.Theimportant
thingistoslicethemeatagainstthegrainsothatitwontshredintopieceswhenyoupounditthin.

2
1
1
2
1
2
2

porkcutletsorthincutloinchops(aboutpounds)
Salt
cupallpurposeflour
cupsfreshbreadcrumbs
ounceParmigianoReggianocheese,grated(about2tablespoons)
largeegg
tablespoonswater
buncharugula
tablespoonsoliveoil
tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice
cuppeanutoil

Rinsetheporkbutdonotpatitdry.Place1pieceinaheavydutyzipperlockplasticbagandpoundwitharollingpinuntilitisaboutinchthick.(Ifyoureusingloin
chops,becarefulnottopoundtheboneitsplinterseasily.)Removetheporkfromthebagandseasonwithsaltonbothsides.Dredgewellintheflour,shakeoff
excessandsetaside.Repeatwiththeremainingpork.
Combinethebreadcrumbsandcheeseinalargemixingbowlandsetaside.Inashallowbowl,beattheeggwiththewateruntilsmooth.Setaside.
Placethearugulainasaladbowlanddressitwiththeoliveoilandlemonjuice.Seasonwithsaltandsetaside.

Page45
Heatthepeanutoilinalargeskilletoverhighheat.Dip1pieceofporkintotheeggbathandthenintothebreadcrumbs.Patthecrumbstocoattheporkwell,then
gentlyshakeoffanyexcess.Dip1corneroftheporkcutletintotheoil.Iftheoilishotenough,theporkwillsizzleloudly.Addtheporktothepanandrepeatwiththe
remainingpork.Frythecutletsuntiltheyarewellbrownedonthebottom,2to3minutes.Turnthemover,saltthecookedsideandfryforanother1to2minutes.
Transfertopapertowelstodrain,thenturnandsalttheunsaltedside.
Placeeachcutletonaplate,withthebestbrownedsideup,thenplaceahandfulofgreensontop.Serveimmediately.
4servings

Page46

Page47

two:
thesecondlifeofplants
Mostoftheingredientswebuytocookwitharelongdead.Thankfully.Themeatanddairyproductsinyourrefrigerator,thebinsofsugar,flour,riceandgrainsinyour
pantry,allofthevariousspicesandcondimentsinthecupboardnoneofthemisgoinganywhere,metaphoricallyspeaking.Exceptforthatrareblockofwildmold
ripenedartisanalcheese,anyphysicalchangesthesefoodsgothroughwhilewaitingforustopreparethemarerestrictedtobacterialspoilage.Theexceptionstothe
rulearefruitsandvegetables.Thoughwemaythinkofthemascheerfullyinanimate,theirlivesdontstopatharvest.Fruitsandvegetablescontinuetochangeand
eventobreathelongafterwevepoppedthemintoourshoppingbagsandtakenthemhome.Inthecaseofmanyfruits,theyevencontinuetoimprove.Infact,you
couldmaketheargumentthatthemostimportantphysicalprocessinthepreparingoffruitsandvegetableshasnothingtodowiththekitchen,butratherwiththis
secondlife.Anythingelseismerelyhurryingtheprocessalongoraccentuatingit.
Bothfruitsandvegetablescomefromplants,ofcourse.Butwhatmakesonepartofaplantafruitandanotheravegetable?Technically,fruitsaretheseedsandovaries
ofplants.Vegetablesareanyediblepartsofplantsthatare

Page48
notfruits.Inotherwords,vegetablesareleaves,stems,roots(thoughsomepartsthatgrowundergroundareactuallyclassifiedastubersorbulbs)andeven,inthecase
ofartichokes,flowerbuds.Vegetablesarenotnecessarilyallofonethingoranother.Thoughspinachisclearlymainlyaleaf,chardisemphaticallybothaleafanda
stem.Andsometimesthingsarenotwhattheyseem.Radishes,carrotsandturnipsareroots,butapotatoisnot,eventhoughitgrowsunderground.Apotatoisa
swollensubterraneanstem(itsrootsareinitseyes!).Inthekitchen,though,thedifferencebetweenfruitsandvegetablesisnotasclearcutasinscience.Wetendto
callplantpartsthatarenotdistinguishedbyanoticeablesweetnessvegetables,botanybedamned.Therefore,whilesuchthingsastomatoes,cucumbers,greenbeans
andpeppersarealltechnicallyfruits,culinarilytheyaretreatedasvegetables.
Thisisnobigdeal,becauseinthebroadestterms,fruitsandvegetablesarethesame.Theyarecollectionsofcellulosewalledcellsthatarecementedtogetherbysticky
substancesknownaspectins.Thecellulosewallsthemselvesarenotdigestibleweeatthemforwhattheycontain,which,aswithmosteverythingelseweeat,is
primarilywater.Whilefruitshaveonebiologicalfunctionreproductionverygenerallyspeaking,thepartsofplantswecallvegetablesworkinoneofthreeways.
Theyconvertlighttoenergythroughphotosynthesis.Theystoretheenergythuscreated.Ortheytransportfluidsandnutrientsfromonepartoftheplanttotheother.
Asallcooksknow,someofthesevegetablepartscomewrappedinatroublesomepeelatoughlayerofcellsaroundtheoutsideoftheplantthatexistsprimarilyto
keepthemoistureandnutrientsinside.Theoldertheplantgets,thetougherthisexteriorbecomes.Oneofthejoysofthefirstvegetablesoftheseasonistheirparticular
tenderness.Givethemanothermonthandtheyllbecometoughenedtoo.Particularlyinverymaturevegetables,thetransportstructuresaretoughaswell,themost
obviousexam

Page49
plebeingthecoreofacarrot.Andasthecellulosewallsthroughouttherestoftheplantcontinuetothickenasthevegetablegrows,theybecometoughertoo,
eventuallyturningintoawoodysubstancecalledlignin(itslittlecrystalsofligninthatgivepearstheirdistinctivegrainytexture).
Evenafterbeingpicked,plantscontinuetorespire,takinginandmorefrequentlygivingoffoxygenandmoisture.Thepecticsubstancesthatcementtheplants
cellstogetherbegintoweaken,dissolvedbyenzymeswithintheplantsthemselves.Foraparticularlydramaticexampleofwhateventuallyhappenstoallplantsparts,
considerleafyvegetables,whichcontainlesscellulosethanotherplantsanddonthavepeelstoholdinmoisture.Themainthingthatkeepsthemerectisthetension
createdbythewatertheycontain.Whentheylosethatmoisture,theycollapse.Andbecauseofthelackofapeel,theylosemoisturequiterapidly.Wecallthatwilting,
andthoughitismostreadilyobservableinlettucesandherbs,youcanevenseeitinsomethingastoughasacarrotifyouleaveitintherefrigeratorfortoolong.
Knowinghowthesestructuresbreakdownisinvaluablewhenitcomestopickingoutthebestvegetables.Remember:moistureisthekey.Youwantvegetablesthat
areheavyfortheirsize(meaningtheycontainalotofwater),andyouwantthemtobesmoothandfirm(meaningthecellulosebreakdownhasnotprogressedveryfar).
Whenyougetthevegetableshome,storetheminawaythatwillpreservetheirmoisture.Coldisonekeyitslowsdownrespiration.(Italsohasothereffectsthat
makeitundesirableforsomethings,mostnotablytomatoesandotherfruits,butmoreaboutthatlater.)Mostrefrigeratorsarebuiltwithspecialvegetabledrawers.
Thesecontainnomagicpropertiesforpreservationtheyaresimplysmallandrelativelytightlysealed,whichpreventsmoisturefromevaporatingtooquickly.
Withinfruitsandvegetables,dissolvedinallofthatwaterinsidethosetoughcells,isafascinatingassortmentofcompounds.

Page50
Amongthemostinterestingbothforthecookandthescientistaretheonesthatgivevegetablestheircolor.Byfarthemostcommonischlorophyll,thestuffthat
makesplantsgreen.Inacuriousextensionofourlifemetaphor,thechemicalstructureofchlorophyllissimilartothatofhemoglobin,acomponentofhumanblood.
Actually,therearetwokindsofchlorophyllthatdiffermainlyintermsofonechemicalgroup.Chlorophyllaisthemostcommontype,andthepresenceofonechemical
groupgivesitavibrantbluegreencolor.Thinkofkale.Chlorophyllb,whichcontainsasmallamountofanotherchemicalgroup,isapaleyellowishgreen.Thinkof
cabbage.Sometimesbothchlorophyllsexistinthesamevegetable.Broccolifloretsarehighinchlorophylla,whilethepalerstalkscontainpredominantlychlorophyllb.
Bothchlorophyllsarewatersoluble,meaningthatwhenyouboilgreenvegetables,thewatermayturngreen.
Allvegetablesarenotgreen,ofcourse,noteven,forexample,allcabbages.Youcanthankanthocyaninforthat.Itgivesfruitsandvegetables(includingredcabbage)
colorsintheredpurplebluerange.Youcouldthinkofanthocyaninasthechlorophyllcoloringoffruits.Theresnotjustonethereareseveraltypesofanthocyanin.
TheyrangefromtheblackishblueoftheConcordgrape(fromthebeautifullynameddelphinidin)throughthepurplerangingtodeepredofblueberriesandcherries
(cyanidin)andontothepalerredofstrawberriesandraspberries(pelargonidin).Andtheresanthoxanthintoo,whichrangesfromverypale,almostcolorless,to
yellow.Thinkofaparsniporofthewhitespongypartofacitruspeel.Carotenoidsareanespeciallyprevalentgroupofpigmentsintheyelloworangeredrange.
Consideringthename,itsnotsurprisingtolearnthatonecarotenoidisthecolorofcarrots.Itisalsothedistinctiveorangeoforanges.Finally,theresbetalain,whichis
relativelyuncommon.Itisthedarkredcolorofbeets.Unlikemostoftheotherbrightvegetablepigments,itiswatersolubleandwillspreadandstaineasily.Someof
these

Page51
pigmentscomewithreadilyidentifiableflavorsothersdonot.Chlorophylla,forexample,weknowasthegrassygreentasteofparsley.Pelargonidinhasthebrightred
berrytastethatisfoundnotonlyinraspberriesandstrawberriesbutalsoinbloodoranges(itsthepigmentthatmakesthembloody).
Fruitsandvegetablesarenotallofoneortheotherpigment.Infact,theyfrequentlystartoutpredominantlyonecolorandthenchangetoanother.Thisisespeciallytrue
forvegetablescoloredbychlorophyll,whichisveryhighinyoungplantsbutdecreasesasplantsage.Asplantsmature,thechlorophyllgreenfadestorevealthe
underlyingcolors.Thisiswhysomanythingschangefromgreentoredandothercolorsastheyripen(itisalsothereasontreeleavesturncolorsinthefall).However,
itseasytobeconfusedbyaprettyblushespeciallywithfruit.Somefruitpeachesandnectarinesprimarilyisbredtoshowanearlyredcolor.Thisshouldnot
bemistakenforasignofripeness.Instead,lookatthebackgroundcolor,thecolorofthefruitasawhole.Itshouldnotshowanygreen.Colorsalsochangeafter
picking,asthesepigmentsoxidizeandlosetheirpotency.Dullcoloredvegetablesareboundtobeolderandlessflavorful.
Inanoddway,allweredoingwhenwecookfruitsandvegetablesisexactlywhatwouldhappenwerewemerelytoleavethemintherefrigeratortoolong.Theresult
isdeliciousonlybecausealltheflavoringcompoundshaventdulledaswell.Fruitsandvegetablessoftenduringcookingbecausethepectinsandthecellulosedissolve,
atleastpartially(themoreliquidpresent,themoretheylldissolve).Atthesametime,theheatcausestheliquidinsidethecellstoexpand,burstingthewalls.Any
starchesthatarepresentbegintosoften,justaswithflourinasauce.Colorschangetoo.Atfirst,particularlywithvegetables,theymaybecomebrighterandmore
intenseastheheatdrivesoffanyoxygeninthecells,makingthecolorappearmorevibrant.Sinceleafyvegetableslikespinachandchardhavemanymoreairpockets
thanothervegetables

Page52
have,youllnoticetheyshrinkdramaticallywhentheyareheated(orrefrigeratedfortoolong).
Eventuallyperhapsafteronlysevenoreightminutesofcookingthebrightcolorsbegintofadeasthepigmentsbreakdownbecauseoftheheat.Togetreally
brightcolors,cooksfrequentlyblanchvegetablesinboilingwater.Usuallyacoldplungeinanicewaterbathfollows.Chefssaythissetsthecolorwhatitreallydoes
isstopthecookingbeforethecolorscanfade.Thisisprimarilydoneforgreenvegetables,becausechlorophyllisthemostsensitiveofthepigmentsitdullswithheat
andleachesintocookingwater.Blanchingisalsousedforvegetablesthattendtothesulfurous,suchasbroccoli,cauliflowerandcabbage.Blanchingremovesenough
ofthechemicalprecursorssothatthosevegetablescanthenbecookedforalongerperiodoftimewithoutstinkingupthehouse.
Perhapsmorethananyotherfood,though,vegetablesareverysensitivetotheircookingenvironment.Cookmeatwithanacid,likewine,lemonjuiceorvinegar,and
therewillbesomesmallchanges.Butcookavegetablewithanacidanditmayevenchangecolor.Chlorophyll,forexample,willturnfromavibrantleafygreentoa
dullolivedrab.Theeffectofacidontheredpigment,anthocyanin,ontheotherhand,istheopposite.Acidpreservesthecrimsoninvegetablescoloredwithit,suchas
redcabbage.Cookthemwithsomethingasmildlyalkalineassometapwaters(inreality,therearentmanyotherbasesthatareusedincooking),andthosebeautiful
redsturnblue.Otherchangesarentquitesonoticeable.Vegetablesthatareapalecreamcolor(coloredwithanthoxanthin),suchascauliflower,willturnaverypale
yellowifcookedwithanacid.Vegetablesthatareyellowtoorange(coloredwithcarotenoids),suchascarrots,arelargelyunaffectedbytherelativeacidityor
alkalinityoftheirsurroundings(oneexceptionistherutabaga,whichturnsfromapalecreamcolortoagoldenorangewhencookedbutthatsanothersetoftints
entirely).

Page53
Exposuretoairwillchangethecolorsofvegetablestoo,oncetheyvebeencut.Thisisbecausecellwallsthathavebeendestroyedreleaseenzymesthatcombinewith
oxygentocausebrowning.Theresultisparticularlynoticeableinpotatoes,artichokesandmushrooms,buttheeffectoccursinotherfoodsaswell.Partofthecuring
processfortealeavesinvolvesthisenzymaticbrowning.Toavoidsuchbrowning,chopmushroomsjustbeforeusingthem.Potatoescanbecoveredinwatertoprevent
contactwithoxygen,andartichokescanbeputinacidulatedwater.
Changesincolorarenotnecessarilyrelatedtochangesinflavorortexture,buttheycanbe.Addinganalkaline,suchasbakingsoda,assomecooksusedtodoto
preservecolorinpeasorbeans,hasadramaticeffectontextureevenwhenaddedintinyamounts.Itdissolvesthosecellulosestructuressoquickly,thevegetables
becomeslimyandturntomushinamatterofminutes.Acids,ontheotherhand,willdelaythatsoftening.Soaddthatsqueezeoflemonjuiceorshotofwineorvinegar
onlyattheendofcooking,bothtopreservecolorandtoensurethatthevegetablessoftenasmuchasyouwant.Andbewareasvegetablescook,theygiveofftheir
ownacids.Particularlywithchlorophyllcoloredvegetables,merelycookingthemunderalidfortoolongwillturnthemdrabasthereleasedacidsvaporize,condense
ontheundersideofthelidandrainbackdownonthevegetables.(Thisisntaproblemaslongasthevegetablesarecookedwithoutacoverorquickly.)
Flavorschangeinmanywaysduringcooking.Eventhepresenceofanentirelyneutralliquidsuchasdistilledwatermakesadifference,especiallyintexture.Wateris
vitaltothedissolvingofthepectinsandcelluloseandsoftensthecellwalls.Whensautingvegetables,addacoupleoftablespoonsofwater,andyoullfindthatthe
vegetablescookmuchmorethoroughly.Thewaterwillthenevaporate,leavingbehindanicesyrupofvegetablejuices.Cellwallsburstasheatedwaterexpands,
mingling

Page54
theircontents.Andthosecontentschangeastheyareheated.Iftheygethotenough,browningbeginsmostlytruecaramelizationofsugar,sincevegetableslackthe
concentrationofproteinsthatmakestheMaillardreactionpossibleinmeat(seepage229).Butprobablythemostinterestingtoscientistsandcooksalikearethe
changesinthesulfurchemicals.Everwonderwhycabbagegivesoffthatawfulreekwhenitsbeencookedfortoolong?Theculpritisthesamethingthatmakesyou
crywhenyouchopanonionsulfur.Inthelattercase,itsreleasedbythemechanicalactionofchopping.Intheformerexample,itsthecookingthatdoesit.Asugar
inthecabbagereactswiththehotwatertoformanothersulfurouscompound.
Wecookvegetablesinmanydifferentways,butwecandividethembytwoimportantfactors:whethertheheatismoistordryandwhetherthereisanexchangeof
flavorinvolved.Moistcookingmethods,suchasboilingorsteaming,willpreventanyofthebrowningprocessfromhappening.Itsthatoldboilingpointthingagain
aslongasthereismoisturepresent,thetemperaturewontgethotenoughtobegintocookthesugarsinthefood.Beyondthat,thereisadifferencebetweenboiling
andsteaming.Thatisbecauseoftheexchangeorlackofexchangeofflavors.Whenyouboilavegetable,someoftheflavoringcompoundsleakintothe
surroundingwaterasthecellwallscollapse.Atthesametime,thevegetableabsorbsflavorsfromtheliquiditiscookedin.Insteaming,thereisnocontactwiththe
liquid,soverylittleflavorislostorgained.Steamedvegetablestastemuchmoreofthemselves(whetherthisisagoodthingorabadthingdependsonthevegetable
andhowyouwanttouseit).Butnotallvegetablecookeryinvolvesaddedmoisture.Itispopularthesedaystoroastorgrillvegetablescookingthemwithdryheat.
Becausethereisnoadditionalmoisture,oncethevegetablesinternalmoisturehasevaporated,itcanbeheatedpast212degrees.Thatallowsthecaramelizationofits
sugars,addingadepthoffla

Page55
vorthatyoucantachievewithmoistheat.Withanydryheatcooking,therewillbeverylittleexchangeofflavors(smokeisreallytheonlythingthatcanbeadded).
Thatswhyroastedorgrilledvegetablesareoftenbathedeitherbeforeorafterwithaflavoredoiloraseasoningmix.
Thoughfruitsandvegetablesmaybesimilaratthemostbasicstructurallevel,theyreverydifferentinotherways.Whilemanyfruitsareusedasvegetables,onlyafew
vegetablesareusedasfruits(rhubarb,astem,isoneofthem).Thebiggestdifferencebetweenfruitsandvegetablesisthatwithvegetables,ripenessisusually
consideredautomatic(onereasonthatitsimportanttorememberthattomatoesareactuallyfruits).Withfruits,ripenessishighlyvariableandcritical.Itisalsovague.
Whatdoesripenessreallymean?
Ripenessisnotafixedpoint,butaprocess.Itbeginswithpollinatedflowersformingfruitandendswithrot.Asanyonewhohaseatenadrippingpeachwilltellyou,
whencaughtattherightpoint,thatsnotnearlysodisagreeableasitsounds.HerestheprocesscallitAFruitsProgress.Withinseveraldaysofbeingpollinated,
afruithascreatedallthecellsiteverwill.Itwillgetlarger,certainly,butthatsbecausethecellsexpand,notbecausetheplantismakingmoreofthem.Thecells
expandbecausetheyarefillingupwithwater.Dissolvedinthatwaterisarichvarietyofcompounds,butofprimaryinteresttousarethestarches,acidsandsugars.
Technically,atthatpointafruithasonlymatured.Itdoesntbegintoripenuntilitreachesitsmaximumsize.Ripenessissignaledbyaseriesofchanges.Frequentlythe
skinturnscolorasthegreenchlorophyllfades,revealingtheunderlyingpigments.Thefruitsoftenstoo,asenzymesfromwithinthefruitbegintodissolvethecellwalls
andeventhepectinthatholdsthemtogether.
Pectinisthereasonimmaturefruitissohard.Itisalsothereasonwhyfruitcookedintojamsandjelliescanthickenwithout

Page56
theadditionofastarch.Asfruitmatures,thepectinsturnintopecticacid,whichhasmuchlessabilitytoformagel.Consequently,veryripefruitdoesnotmakegood
jam.
Asthecellwallsofthefruitdissolve,moistureisreleased,makingthefruitjuicy.Atthesametime,itschemicalcompoundsintermingle,combiningandformingnew
ones.Ofspecialinterestarethecompoundsthatconvertthecomplexcarbohydratestarchtothesimplecarbohydratesugar.Simplesugarslikeglucoseareconverted
tocomplexsugarslikefructoseandsucrose.Fragrancesandflavorsdevelop.Lefttoitself,thefruitwilleventuallyripentothepointthatitfallstotheground,whereit
thenwilleitherbeeatenbyanimalsorfinishrotting.Eitherway,theseedswillbescatteredtogerminate,sproutandgrowintoanewplant.
Butripenessisnotasinglestandard:indifferenttypesoffruit,itmeansdifferentthings.AstheeminentfoodwriterJeffreySteingartenhaspointedout,therearefive
classesoffruit,eachripeninginadifferentway.Somefruitsdonotripenafterbeingpicked(berries,cherries,grapes,citrusfruits,watermelonandolivesyes,
theyreafruit).Onefruit,theavocado,ripensonlyafteritspicked.Somefruitschangecolorandtextureanddevelopmorecomplexflavorafterbeingpickedbut
wontdevelopanymoresweetness(apricots,melons,figs,peaches,nectarines,plumsandpersimmons).Somefruitsgetsweeterbutdontchangecolorortexture
(apples,kiwis,mangoes,papayasandpears).Andthentheresthebanana,whichwillripenonthetreeoroff(thoughthereislittletocomparewiththeflavorand
aromaofabananathatsbeenallowedtohangtofullripeness).
Neitherisripenessanunmixedblessingespeciallytothepeoplewhosellfruitforaliving.Obviously,asthefruitsoftenswithripeness,itcanbecomedamagedmore
easily.Thisistruenotonlyforaccidentsthatoccurduringshippingbutalsoforhazardsinthefieldanythingfromapoorlytimedraintoahailstorm,evenagustof
windthatrubsbranchesagainstthefruit.

Page57
Thatiswhyfarmersviewthepickingoffruitasaraceagainsttime.Thesoonertheycangetitoutofharmsway,thebetter.Andbecauseoftheabilityofmanyfruitsto
continueimprovinginqualityaftertheyareoffthetree,farmerscanpickthemevenwhentheyappeartobedeadgreen.Thisisespeciallytrueofstonefruits(apricots,
peaches,plumsandnectarines).Unfortunately,however,thoughthatfruitmighthavealreadyconverteditsstarchtoanacceptablelevelofsugar,itprobablywontbe
assweetasitwouldbeifitwerelefttohanglonger.And,almostasimportant,itwonthavehadtimetodevelopmanyofthosevolatilechemicalsthathelpdefine
flavor.
Thereisalsoresearchthatarguesthatripenessisnotthesoledetermineroffruitquality.Thoughstonefruitleftonthetreelongerisinarguablysuperiorinflavoruptoa
point,recentstudiesindicatethathowthefruitistreatedinitslastdaysonthetreecanbejustasimportant.Fruitthatisdeprivedofwaterinthelastweekortwo
beforeharvesthassuperiorflavortofruitthatisirrigatedrightuptoharvest.Putsimply,addingwaterduringthedaysleadingtopickingseemstodilutethefruitsflavor.
Inadditiontothemoreobviousrulesforpickingfruitschoosethosethatareheavyfortheirsizelookforfirm,smoothfleshletsaddonemore:theclosertoyou
thefruitisgrown,thebetteritisliabletobe.Theimplicationforcooksistobuyfruitthatislocal.Peachesnotgrownwiththeexpectationofhavingtobeshipped2,000
milestomarketaremorelikelytobepickedlaterandtobevarietiesinwhichflavorismoreimportantthantheabilitytowithstandtrucktransportation.Theequally
obviouscorollarytothisruleisthatinmuchofthecountry,peoplewillbeabletoeatthesepeachesforonlyonemonthayear,whileinotherpartstheyllneversee
thematall.
Onewaygrowersgetaroundtheproblemswithripenessisbytrickingthefruit,particularlybananas,tomatoesandoranges.Atacertainpointinthematurationofthe
fruit,forreasonsasyetnotunderstood,itbeginstoproduceethylenegas,whichactsasa

Page58
trigger,tellingthefruititistimetoripen.Sinceethylenegasiseasilyhandled,growersandgrocersshipfruitthathasbeenpickedhardandgasitwithethyleneinspecial
rooms.Thissoftensthefruitandevenencouragessomecolorchanges,butitdoesnotaddsugaroranyoftheotherchemicalsthatcreatecomplexityofflavor.
Thereisanotherwaytopromoteflavor,atleastwithsomefruits.Thefirststepistakingcareofthemonceyougetthemhome.Colddeadenstheflavorinfruitssuchas
strawberriesandstonefruits,soyoushouldbewaryofstickingthemintherefrigerator.Leavethematroomtemperatureforaslongasyoucanwithoutcourting
spoilage(thiswillvarydependingonthestateofthefruitwhenyoubuyitandthetemperatureofyourroom).Thispresumesdailyfruitshopping,whichisnotalways
practical,toputitmildly.Anothersolutionistogowithwhatthesupermarketssellyou,andthentrytotrickthefruityourself.Stonefruit,forexample,willsoftenand
developmorecomplexflavorsevenifitispickedatalessthanidealstate:stickacoupleofhardbutripepeachesinapaperbagandleavethematroomtemperature
inadayortwotheywillbereadytoeat.
Aswithvegetables,fruitgetssofterandjuicierwhenitiscooked.Becauseoftheheat,itsaromasandflavorsbecomemorepronounced.Becauseoftheexchangeof
liquids,fruitthatispoachedorcookedwithotherfruitsdevelopsmorecomplexity.And,aswithvegetables,therearepotentialproblemstoo.Forone,colorpigments
change.Whileonlyafewvegetablesarebrightred,thetroublesomeanthocyaninpigmentiscommonwithfruits.Strawberriesandcherriesaretwofavoritefruitsthat
containit,andtheywillturnabruisedblueiftheyrenotcookedcarefully.Addingacidityisthekeyagain:orangeorlemonjuiceisgood.Inthecaseofstrawberries,
theycanbecookedwithrhubarb,whichishighlyacidic.Somefruitsarealsopronetoenzymaticbrowning,justlikesomevegetablesapplesandpears

Page59
willturndingytanafterbeingsliced.Theycanbekeptbrightwhitebycoveringthemwithslightlyacidicwater.
Sugarhasamarkedeffectonfruitaswellitcanactuallycookitwithoutheat.Becausesugardrawswaterfromwhateverittouches,itwillsuckthemoistureoutof
delicatefruit,collapsingthecellwallsanddrawingoutallitsjuices.Forthatreason,itsbesttodelaysweeteningfruituntiljustbeforeyourereadytocookit.One
exceptioniswhenmakingjamthenthefruitandsugarfrequentlyarecombinedadayinadvancetoallowthefruittogiveupitsmoisture,whichmixeswiththesugar
tomakeasyrupthatisreabsorbedbythefruit.Anotherexceptioniswhenmakingfruitflavoredicecreams.Ifthefruitisntsugaredwellbeforehandtodrawoffwater,
theicecreamwillbelitteredwithlittlefruitflavoredicecubes.
Becausemanyfruitsarestillintheprocessofripeningevenafterharvest,storageistrickierthanitisforvegetables.Anyfruitincludingthetomatothatisstill
ripeningshouldbestoredatroomtemperatureuntilithassoftenedandsweetenedasmuchasitcan.Moreover,chillinginevitablydamagestheenzymesthathelpcreate
theflavorsinfruitsliketomatoes,peaches,plums,nectarinesandapricots.Itisfarbettertousesuchfruitsassoonastheyareripeandavoidrefrigeratingthem
altogether.Otherfruits,suchasmelons,apples,pearsandmangoes,aresafetorefrigerateaftertheyrefullyripeandsweet.Again,withthesefruits,thesamerules
applyasforvegetables:theyshouldbekeptinaspacethatisashumidaspossiblethevegetablecrisperisideal.Butwhilehumidityisgoodpreservingthemoisture
withinthefruitmoistureonthesurfaceofthefruitisbad.Becausetheskinsofsomanyfruitsaredelicate,moistureinvitesmold,whichcausesrapidspoilage.Dont
washfruituntilyourereadytouseit.
Thesechangesarenotlimitedtofruits,ofcoursebotanicalornot.Vegetablescanbetrickytoo,especiallypotatoes.Chillapotato,forexample,anditbeginsto
createenzymesthatconvert

Page60
starchtosugar.Ifyouveeverhadasweetbakedpotato(asopposedtoabakedsweetpotato),itwasprobablystoredtoolongintherefrigeratorbeforeitwas
cooked.Andifyourpotatoesturngreenwhenleftoutonthecountertop,thatsanaturalreactiontoo.Potatoesgrowinthedark,remember.Whenstressed(bybeing
exposedtotoomuchlight),theybegintoproducebothchlorophyllandatoxicsubstancethatisdesignedtoprotectthemfrompredators.Evenafterbeingdug,a
potatoliveson,stilltryingtoavoidbeingeaten.

Page61

vegetables
Buyingthebestingredientsistherealkeytovegetablecookery.Pickthosethatareheaviestfortheirsizeandhavethefirmesttexture.Brightcolorsareanothergood
indicatoroffreshness.

Onceyougetvegetableshome,theyshouldgostraightintotherefrigerator.Theonlyexceptionisthetomato,whichisafruit,notavegetable.Neverrefrigerate
tomatoes.Theirflavorswillbeirreparablydamaged.

Topeelornottopeel?Somevegetablesdefinitelyneedtobepeeledbeets,forexample.Butmostofthetimethedecisiontopeelisanaestheticone.Thepeelis
atough,corkylayerandisusuallyfairlydullincolor,particularlyoncecooked.Ifnoneofthisbothersyou,thereissomeminornutritionalgaintobemadebycooking
vegetableswiththeskinson.

Somevegetables,suchaspotatoesandartichokes,begintobrownfromexposuretotheair.Aftertheyvebeenpeeledorcut,coverthemwithwater(artichokesin
waterwithvinegarorlemonjuiceaddedtoit).

Ifnotcookingvegetableswhole,makesuretocutthemintosimilarshapesandsizes.Otherwise,athinslicewillturntomushbeforeathicksliceisevensoft.

Cookgreenvegetableseitheruncoveredorforfewerthan7minutes.Muchlongerthanthat,andtheacidsfreedbycookingwillbegintocondenseonthelidandrain
backdownonthevegetables,spoilingtheircolor.

Dontbeafraidtocookvegetablesuntiltheyvecompletelysoftened.Thoughtendercrisporaldentevegetablesaresometimesinfashion,youwillgetamuch
moredeveloped,complexflavorbycookingthemallthewaythrough.

Page62
Vegetablescanbebraisedjustlikemeat.Butratherthanbrowningthevegetableandthenaddingtheliquid,asyouwouldwithmeat,reversetheprocess.Putthe
vegetable,someliquidandsomeoilinacoldpan.(Hardervegetableslikecarrotswilltakemorewaterthanleafyoneslikespinach.)Coverandplaceoverheat.Let
cook,shakingoccasionally,untilthevegetablehasbeguntosoften.Removethelidfromthepanandraisetheheattohightoallowtheliquidtoevaporate.Thisgives
youbothawellcookedvegetableandadeliciousglazemadefromtheflavoredcookingoil.

Holdoffaddinganacidicingredienttoanydishofgreenvegetablesuntiljustbeforeyourereadytoserve,sotheyretaintheircolor.Vegetablesthathavebeen
blanched(cookedinplentyofboilingwateruntiljustsoftened)canbedressedinavinaigretteimmediately,becausehotvegetableswillabsorbitbetter.

Page63
roastedtomatoeswithgoatcheese
Roastingtomatoesconcentratestheirflavorwonderfully.Thismethodissomuchbetterthansundrying,whichseemstoturnthemtoleather.Servethisdishasan
appetizer(alongwith,say,abowlofgreenolivesandanotheroftoastedalmonds)orasalightdinnerwhenpairedwithasalad.

10
4
2
1
1
20

plumtomatoes(about1pounds)
garliccloves,minced
tablespoonsoliveoil
teaspoonssalt
Freshlygroundblackpepper
smallbunchfreshbasil
slicessourdoughbread,toasted
cupfreshgoatcheese(about3ounces)

Preheattheovento275degrees.
Slicethetomatoeslengthwiseinhalf,keepingasmuchoftheseedsandpulpintactaspossible.Inalargemixingbowl,combinethetomatoes,garlic,oil,saltandpepper
totasteandtosstomixwell.
Arrangethetomatoescutsideupinasinglelayerinajellyrollpan.Reserveenoughbasilleavestomake2tablespoons(about6leaves)coverandrefrigerate.
Distributetheremainderofthebasil,includingthestems,overthetomatoes.
Bakeuntilthetomatoesbegintobrownontopandaresoftbutstillmoist,about1hour.Removefromtheovenandturntheoventobroil.(Therecipecanbeprepared
tothispointseveraldaysinadvanceandstored,tightlycovered,intherefrigerator.)
Thinlyslicethereservedbasilleaves.Usingafork,mash1tomatohalfoneachsliceoftoastedbreadandtopitwithagenerousteaspoonofgoatcheese.Broiljustuntil
thecheesebeginstomelt.Sprinklewiththeslicedbasilandserve.
20croutons6to8appetizerservings
4to6lightlunchservings

Page64
butterbraisedspinach
ThereisafamousspinachrecipefromBrillatSavarinthatcallsforspinachtobecookedforseveraldayswithapoundofbutteraddedeveryday.Itmighthavetasted
good(aslongasyoulikedbutter),butcanyouimaginehowbrownthespinachwouldhavebeenbytheendofallthatcooking?Bycookingspinachbriefly,youcan
retainmoreofthegreencolorandstillendupwithsomethingthattastesprettydamnedluxurious.

3
4
4

poundsspinach(about3bunches)
garliccloves,minced
tablespoons(stick)butter,cutintopieces
Salt

Rinsetheloosespinachinasinkfullofcoldwater,drainingthewaterandrepeatingtheprocessasoftenasnecessaryuntilthewaterrunsclear.Removethespinach,
shakeitdryandremovetheleavesfromthestems,eitherbytearingorcutting.(Itisnotnecessaryfortheleavestobecompletelydry.)
Heatawokorlargeskilletovermediumhighheat.Addthespinachandgarlic.Thewokwillbeveryfullofspinach,butitwillcookdowninabout5minutes,asyou
stirandturnthespinachtopreventburningandsticking.Add2tablespoonsofthebutter,reducetheheattolowandcontinuecooking,stirring,forabout10minutes,
untilthespinachabsorbsallthebutter.Addtheremaining2tablespoonsbutterandcontinuecookingslowlyuntilallthebutterisabsorbed.Seasonwithsalt.Servehot.
4servings

Page65
belgianendivebraisedwithcream
Belgianendiveisanexceptiontotheruleaboutnotcookinggreensformorethanabout7minutesinordertopreservetheircolor.Sinceendiveisgrowndeprivedof
sunlight,itneverdevelopschlorophyllandsocantturnbrown.
CuttinganXinthebottomofeachheadallowstheheattopenetratetothecenterofthedenselywrappedleaves,whilekeepingthemtogethersotheydontfallapart.
Theboiling,sautingandfinalbraisingproducearich,creamytexturethatcontrastspleasantlywiththeendivesnaturalbitterness.ThisisbasedonarecipefromThe
Epicurean,byCharlesRanhofer,anAmericancookbookpublishedinthe1880s.

8
6
1
1

headsBelgianendive
tablespoons(stick)butter
tablespoonallpurposeflour
teaspoonsalt
teaspoonsugar
Freshlygratednutmeg
cupheavy(whipping)cream

Trimanygreenorwiltedouterleavesfromtheendive.TrimthebottomsandcutanXthroughthebaseofeach.Cooktheendiveinplentyofrapidlyboilingwateruntil
tender,15to20minutes.Drain,rinsewithcoldwaterandpatdry.Pressoutanyremainingmoisture,thenfinelychop.
Melt2tablespoonsofthebutterinamediumskillet.Addtheendiveandcookovermediumhighheatuntilverytender,about10minutes.Sprinkletheflouroverthe
endiveandstirtomixwell.Seasonwiththesalt,sugarandnutmegtotaste,thenaddthecreamandcookovermediumlowheatuntilslightlythickened,about5
minutes.Addtheremaining4tablespoons(stick)butter,stirtomixwellandserve.
8to10servings

Page66
radicchioalforno
Justaswithonions,roastingdrivesoffmuchofthebitternessinradicchio,leavingasweetvegetablewithanintriguingedge.Forthisdish,Iprefertousethelong
headedTrevisoradicchio(itlookssomethinglikearedblushedBelgianendive)because,whencooked,itseemstobecreamierandsweeterthanthemorefamiliarred
roundheadedChioggiaradicchio,thoughthatcouldcertainlybeused.

2
2
2
2

tablespoonsoliveoil
stripsleanbacon,chopped
garliccloves,sliced
poundsradicchio,preferablyTreviso(seeabove)
poundmozzarella,cubed
cupfreshlygratedpecorinoRomanocheese

Preheattheovento450degrees.
Combinetheoil,baconandgarlicinasmallsaucepanandcookoverlowheat,stirringoccasionally,untilthegarlicsoftens,about5minutes.Donotletthegarliccolor.
Whilethegarliccooks,rinsetheradicchiowellincoldwaterandpatdry.Cuttheradicchiowithlongheadslengthwiseinhalf,theradicchiowithroundheadsinto
quarters.Arrangetheradicchioinabakingpan.(Youcanstacktheheadsinmorethanonelayertheywillcookdown.)
Pourthegarlicbaconmixtureovertheradicchio,turningtheradicchiotocoatevenly.Baketheradicchiountilitissoft,about40minutes,turningoccasionallytokeepit
coatedwithoil.(Ifthegarlicslicesbegintoblacken,removethemfromthepan.)Keeppushingtheradicchiotogetherinthecenterofthepanasitcooksdown.
Whentheradicchioissoft,pushitintothecenterofthepananddistributethemozzarellaoverthetop.Sprinklewiththegratedpecorinocheeseandreturnthepanto
theoven.Bakeuntilthemozzarellameltsandbeginstobrown,about15minutes.Servehot.
6sidedishservingsor4lightmaindishservings

Page67
glazedzucchini
Glazingisatechniquethatcanbeusedformanydifferentvegetables.Firstalittlebitofwaterisaddedtotheoilinthepan,whichhelpstobreakdownthecellulose,
softeningthevegetableandcookingitthrough.Thenthewaterevaporates,leavingbehindthevegetablesflavorsmingledwiththeoilinalight,tastyglaze.Bewareof
undercooking:itsimportantthatthevegetablecookscompletelytodevelopthefullflavor.Soakingzucchiniinwaterbeforecookingfirmsit,becauseitabsorbssome
ofthewater.

2
2
2

poundsmediumzucchini(inchthickand56incheslong)
tablespoonsoliveoil
garliccloves
Salt
Aboutcupwater
tablespoonthinlyslicedfreshbasil

Trimtheendsofthezucchini.Soakitinalargebowlofcoldwaterfor30minutestofreshen.
Drainthezucchiniandpatdry.Cutitlengthwiseinhalf,thencrosswiseintoquarters.
Inalargeskillet,combinethezucchini,oil,garlic,1teaspoonsaltandjustenoughwatertocoverthebottomofthepan.Coverandcookovermediumheatuntilthe
zucchinibeginstosoften,5to7minutes.Removethelid,raisetheheattohighandcook,stirring,untiltheliquidevaporatesandthezucchiniisglazedwiththeoiland
beginningtobrownlightly.
Removethegarliccloves.Carefullystirinthebasilandmoresalttotaste(thezucchiniwillbesomewhatfragile),andserve.
4servings

Page68
californiasuccotash
ofsquash,limabeansandcorn

ThisisadishforSeptemberandOctober,whenweregettingtheverylastofthesummersproduce.Addingalittlewaterandcoveringthepotresultsinamoist
cookingenvironmentthatwillsoftenthebeansandsquashmorereadilythanjustsautingthem.Freshlimaswilltakemorewaterthanfrozenonespartofthefreezing
processinvolvesblanching,sofrozenbeansarealreadypartiallycooked.Thoughthebeansandsquasharecookedcoveredforwhatseemslikealongtime,dont
worryneitherofthemissohighinchlorophyllthatthecolorwilldull.Ifyouwanttosubstitutezucchinifortheyellowsquash,though,youllhavetolimitthecooking
time.Zucchiniisgreen,soitdoeshavechlorophyllthatwillturndrab.

3
1
1
1

1
2

tablespoonsbutter
bunchgreenonions,whitepartsonly,chopped
poundyellowsummersquash,sliced
Salt
sprigfreshthyme
poundshelledfreshlimabeansor1(10ounce)packagefrozenbabylimabeans,thawed
cupswaterifusingfreshbeans,cupifusingfrozen
earscorn,husked
poundcherrytomatoes
cuptornfreshbasilleaves

Combinethebutterandgreenonionsinalargeskilletovermediumheatandcook,stirringoccasionally,untiltheonionsbegintosoften,about5minutes.Addthe
squash,1teaspoonsalt,thethyme,freshlimabeans,ifusing,andthewater(addfrozenbeansandwaterlater).Covertheskillet,increasetheheattomediumhighand
cook,stirringoccasionally,untilthesquashandbeanshavesoftened,about15minutes.

Page69
Whilethesquashiscooking,cutthekernelsfromtheearsofcorn.Setthecobsaside.
Whenthesquashhassoftened,addthefrozenbeans,ifusing,andthewateralongwiththetomatoesandthecornkernels.Scrapethecobswiththebackofaknife,
addingthecornmilktotheskillet.Thereshouldbejustenoughliquidinthepantocoatthevegetableswhenstirred.Cookfor5minutes,untilcornistender.
Seasontotastewithsalt,addthebasilandserve.
6lightmaindishservings

Page70
creamedonionswithshiitakemushrooms
Peelingtheonionsforthisrecipetakesabitofhandwork.Youcanfindfrozenpeeledpearlonionsinthegrocerystore,buttheytendtobealreadyovercookedand
mushy.Thetextureismuchbetterifyoudothepeelingyourself.Coveringtheonionswithboilingwatermakesiteasytodothequickheatingreleasestheskinsbut
doesntovercooktheonions.Theyretainjustenoughoftheirbitetocounterpointtherichnessofthecreamandmushrooms.

2
12
2
1
1
2

pintspearlonions
ouncesshiitakemushrooms
tablespoonsbutter
shallot,minced
cupsheavy(whipping)cream
Salt
tablespoonsmincedfreshherbs(mainlychives,withparsley,rosemaryand/orthyme)

Barelytrimbothendsofthepearlonions(leavesomeoftherootandstemtokeeptheonionsfromfallingapart).CutadeepXintherootendofeach,aboutone
quarterofthelengthoftheonion,toallowtheheattopenetrate.Placetheonionsinalargebowlandcoverthemwithboilingwater.Letstanduntiltheyhavecooledto
roomtemperature.
Whentheonionsarecoolenoughtohandle,squeezethembetweenyourthumbandforefingertopopthemfromtheirskins.Patthoroughlydry.Setaside.
Removethestemsfromtheshiitakemushrooms,rinsethecapsbrieflyunderrunningwaterandpatdry.Chopthemfine.Combinethebutterandshallotinamedium
heavysaucepanandcookovermediumheatuntiltheshallotissoftandtranslucent,about2minutesdonotlettheshallotscorchorcolor.Addthemushroomsand
cookuntiltheyaredry,about3minutes.Addthecream,raisetheheattomediumhighandcook,stirring,untilthecreamreducesbyhalf,about5minutes.

Page71
Addtheonionsandcookbriefly,justenoughtoheattheonionsthroughandreducethecreamagain,ifnecessaryitmaybecomethinnerfromtheonionjuices.(The
onionscanbepreparedupto1dayahead,cookedandrefrigerated.Reheatgentlyjustbeforeserving.)Seasontotastewithsalt,stirintheherbsandserve.
6to8servings

Page72
marketmix
Rootvegetablessuchasboilingpotatoes,turnipsandparsnipstakewelltoroasting.Becausetheyaresodenseandtakesolongtocook,theirnaturalsugarshavea
chancetocaramelize.Andbecausethereisnomoistureadded,theirflavorsarenotdiluted.Thekeytogoodcrustybrowningisnottomovethevegetablesduringthe
firsthalfhour,sotheygetachancetosearagainstthehotpan.Dontusebakingpotatoes,astheytendtofallapartwhenstirred.

2
1

6
1

poundsbabyredpotatoes,halved
bulbfennel,trimmedandcutintothickwedges
poundbrownmushrooms,suchascreminiorportobello,cleanedandquarteredorcutintosmallerwedgesiflarge
garliccloves,peeled
redbellpepper,cored,seededandcutintothickwedges
cupoliveoil
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

Preheattheovento450degrees.
Combinethepotatoes,fennel,mushrooms,garlicandredpepperinalargeshallowroastingpan.Pourtheoiloverandseasontotastewithsaltandpepper.Tosswell
tocoatallthevegetables.
Roastfor30minuteswithoutstirring.
Shakethevegetablestoloosenthemfromthebottomofthepanandroastforanother20minutesorso,stirringonceortwiceduringthelast10minutes.Thepotatoes
shouldbebrownedandcrusty.Servehot.
6servings

Page73
bakedtomatoesstuffedwithmozzarella
Bakingtomatoesbrieflybringsoutalltheirflavorwhileallowingthemtokeeptheirshape.Afewdropsofbalsamicvinegarprovidethatfullsummertanginess.Serve
theseasasidedishoralightmaincourse.

6
6

2
2

mediumtolargetomatoes
Balsamicvinegar
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
anchovyfillets,preferablysaltpacked,rinsedwellandcutinhalf(about2ounces)
smallfreshmozzarellaballs(about7ounces)
cupfreshbreadcrumbs
garliccloves,minced
tablespoonsthinlyslicedfreshbasilleaves
Extravirginoliveoilfordrizzling

Preheattheovento350degrees.
Sliceonequarteroffthetopofeachtomato(reserveforanotheruse,ifdesired).Usingamelonballer,removemostoftheseedsandpulp,beingcarefulnottodamage
thewallsofthetomatoes.Sprinkletheinsideofeachtomatowithafewdropsofbalsamicvinegar,adashofsaltandagrindingofpepper.Donotoversalt,asthe
anchoviesarenaturallysalty.Crossthe2halvesofananchovyfilletinthebottomofeachtomato.Placeaballofmozzarellaineachone.Placethetomatoesona
bakingsheetandbakeuntilthemozzarellasoftens,about20minutes(donotletthetomatoescollapse).
Whilethetomatoesarebaking,combinethebreadcrumbs,garlicandbasilinasmallbowl.
Whenthemozzarellahasbeguntomelt,turntheoventobroil.Spoonthebreadcrumbmixtureoverthetopsofthetomatoes.Drizzlewithoilandbroiluntilthetopping
isbrowned.Servehot.
6servings

Page74
rajas(grilledpeppersandcream)
Rajasstripsofgrilledpepperswiththeirthin,paperypeelremovedcanbeeateneitherasatacofillingorasavegetablesidedishwithafairlyblandmaincourse.
Ilikethemwithsausages.QuesorancheroisatangyMexicancheesethatismildlysaltyandmeltseasily.LikemanyotherMexicandairyproducts,includingtheslightly
sourMexicancream,itisavailableinsupermarketsinsomepartsofthecountryandinLatinogrocerystores.Ifyoucantfindeitherorboth,youcansubstitute
shreddedMontereyJackforthequesorancheroandsourcreamorcrmefrachefortheMexicancream.

6
4
2
4
12
2
1

poblanochiles
yellowonions
tablespoonsvegetableoil
garliccloves,minced
tablespoonschoppedfreshcilantro
tablespoonsMexicancream(seeabove)
teaspoonsalt,ormoretotaste
cupcrumbledquesoranchero(seeabove)

Preheatthebroilerorgrill.
Roastthechilepeppersunderthebroileroronthegrill(oroveragasburner),turningfrequently,untiltheskinsblacken,about10minutes.Placeinabowlandcover
withadamptoweltosteamandcool.
Whenthepeppersarecool,peelofftheblackenedskinanddiscard.Removethestemsandseedsandtearthefleshintocoarsestrips.Setaside.
Cuttheonionslengthwiseinhalf,thenintohalfmoonslessthaninchthick.Combineinaskilletwiththeoilandcook,covered,overlowheatuntiltheonionshave
thoroughlywiltedandarebeginningtobrown,15to20minutes.

Page75
Removethecoverandraisetheheattomedium.Addthegarlicand1tablespoonofthecilantroandcookuntilthegarlicissoft,about3minutes.Addthepeppersand
heatthrough,about5moreminutes.
Stirinthecreamandcookjustlongenoughtothicken,1to2minutes.Addthesalt(donotoversaltthecheeseissomewhatsalty).Removefromtheheat.(Therecipe
canbepreparedtothispointupto1dayaheadandrefrigerated,tightlycovered).Addthecrumbledcheeseandtheremaining1tablespooncilantroandserve.
4sidedishservings
6servingsastacofilling

Page76
ratatouille
Ratatouilleisalwaysdeliciousbutsometimeshasamuddledflavor.Thatsbecausebythetimeallthevegetableshavecookedtogether,theyhavelosttheirindividual
identities.Thisratatouilleisabitofaproduction,becausethevegetablesarecookedsinglybeforebeingreheatedtogether,butthetechniqueconcentratesanddefines
theindividualflavors.

1
3
3
46
1
3
6
1
3

poundseggplant(AsianorItalian)
redbellpeppers
smallzucchini(1pound),endstrimmed,soakedincoldwaterfor30minutes,drainedandpatteddry
tablespoonsoliveoil
yellowonion,coarselychopped
garliccloves,minced
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
plumtomatoes,peeled,seededandchopped
tablespoonbalsamicvinegar
tablespoonschoppedmixedfreshherbs(parsley,thyme,basil,marjoramand/ororegano)

IfusingslenderAsianeggplant,cutlengthwiseintoquartersandtheninto1inchsections(withoutpeeling).IfusingroundItalianeggplant,trimtheends,peelandcut
into1inchdice.Setaside.
Cutthetopsandbottomsofftheredpeppers,cutthemlengthwiseinhalfandremovetheseedsandveins.Cutthepeppersinto1inchsquares.Setaside.
Cutthezucchinilengthwiseintoquartersandtheninto1inchsections.Setaside.
Heat1tablespoonoftheoilinalargenonsticksautpanovermediumhighheat.Whenhot,addtheonionandcook,stirring,untiltranslucentbutnotbrowned,3to5
minutes.Addthegarlicandcook,stirringconstantly,justuntiltheonionbeginstobrowndonotletthegarlicbrown.Seasontotastewithsaltandpepperandtransfer
toamixingbowl.

Page77
Addanothertablespoonofoiltothepanandheatuntilhot.Addtheeggplantandcook,stirringconstantly,untilitbeginstobrown,about5minutes.(Ifnecessary,
cooktheeggplantin2batches,addingmoreoilifneeded.)Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuecookinguntiltheeggplantisrathersoft,about10minutesmore.
Seasontotastewithsaltandpepperandaddtotheonionmixture.
Addanothertablespoonofoiltothepanandheatovermediumhighheat.Whenhot,addthepeppersandcook,stirring,untiltheybecometender,5to10minutes.
Seasontotastewithsaltandpepperandaddtotheeggplantandonion.
Heattheremaining1tablespoonoilovermediumhighheat.Addthezucchiniandcook,stirringconstantly,untilitjustbeginstobrown.Reducetheheattomediumand
cookuntilitistendercrisp.Seasontotastewithsaltandpepperandaddtothevegetablesinthemixingbowl.
Increasetheheattohighandaddthetomatoestothepan.Stir,thenaddthevinegar.Cookbriefly,scrapingthebottomofthepantoloosenanybrownbits.Pourthe
tomatoesoverthevegetablesandstirtocombine.
Transferthevegetablemixturetoalargesautpanandcook,stirring,overmediumlowheatuntilallthevegetablesarecookedthrough,about5minutes.Theonion,
eggplantandpeppersshouldbeverysoft,butthezucchinishouldstillhavesomebite.Duringthelast5minutes,addtheherbsandstirwell.Tasteagainandadjustthe
seasonings,ifnecessary.Servehotoratroomtemperature.
6servings

Page78
roastedbeetandorangesalad
Roastingbeetsconcentratestheirflavorandsweetensthemnicely.Becarefulwhenyouunwrapthem,astheredanthocyaninpigmentwillleakfromthecutsurfaces
anditwilldefinitelystain.Youcantoastthenutsintheovenifyouwish,inasinglelayeronacookiesheetforabout10minutes,oryoucandoitontopofthestovein
adryskilletforabout15minutes.

6
3
4

2
6

mediumbeetswithtops
naveloranges
teaspoonspreparedhorseradish,ormoretotaste
teaspoonmincedgarlic
tablespoonsredwinevinegar
tablespoonsoliveoil,ormoretotaste
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
About1tablespoonfreshlemonjuice(optional)
tablespoonschoppedtoastedpecans(seeabove)

Preheattheovento350degrees.
Trimthebeettopsto1inchandsetthetopsaside.Wrapthebeetsinfoilandbake,turningonce,untilasmallknifeslipsineasily,about1hour.Setasidetocool.
Peeltheoranges,removingallthewhitepith.Workingoverabowltocatchthejuices,carefullyremovetheorangesectionsbycuttingdownbothsidesofeachsection
betweenthefleshandthemembraneandgentlyscoopingthesegmentintothebowl.Whenyouarefinished,squeezethejuicefromthemembranesintothebowland
discardthemembranes.Removetheorangesectionswithaslottedspoonandsetaside.
Blanchthereservedbeettopsinalargepotofboilingwaterjustuntiltheircolorbrightensandtheirstemsbecometender,about1minute.Immediatelytransferthemto
abowlofcoldwatertostopthecooking.Drainwellandpatdrywithakitchentowel.Setaside.

Page79
Whenthebeetsarecoolenoughtohandle,slidethepeelsoffwithyourfingers.Removeanyremainingtopsandtrimtheroots.Slicethebeetsintoinchthickrounds
andsetaside.
Whisktogetherthehorseradish,garlic,vinegarandthejuicefromtheorangesectionsinamixingbowl.Whiskingconstantly,slowlyaddtheoil,beginningwithjusta
thread.Seasontotastewithsaltandplentyofpepper.Ifnecessary,addalittlemorehorseradish,oilorthelemonjuice(ifdesired)tocorrecttheacidity.(Testby
dippinganorangesectionandapieceofbeetintothedressing.Theflavorshouldbebrightbutwellbalanced.)
Addthebeetstothedressing,tosswell,removewithaslottedspoonandarrangeinalowmoundinthecenterofaservingplatter.Addtheorangeslicestothe
dressingandtosswell.Removewithaslottedspoonandarrangethemoverthebeets.Addthebeettopstothedressingandtosswell.Removewithaslottedspoon
andarrangethemaroundthebeets,sprinklewiththepecansandserve.
6servings

Page80
springvegetablestewofsnappeas,lettuce,newpotatoesandartichokes
Inthiscountrywerarelycooklettuces,butwhentheyretreatedgently,theyaddawonderfulspringgreenflavortostews.Servewithcrustybread.

4
1
1
2
2
1
1
1
2

Juiceof1lemon
artichokes
poundsugarsnappeas
poundssmallwhitepotatoes,cutintowalnutsizedpieces
Salt
tablespoonsbutter
shiitakemushrooms,stemsdiscarded,coarselychopped
bunchgreenonions,whitepartsonly,cutinto1inchlengths
headromainelettuce,interiorleavesonly(reserveouterleavesforanotheruse),coarselychopped
teaspoonchoppedfreshmint
tablespoonschoppedfreshoreganoormarjoram
cupchoppedfreshparsley

Fillalargebowlwithcoldwaterandaddhalfthelemonjuiceandsetaside.
Trimtheartichokesbypullingoffanyleavesclingingtothestemandthetwoouterrowsofleavesaroundthebase.Holding1artichokeinonehandandasharpparing
knifeintheother,keepingtheknifeparalleltothestem,turntheartichokeagainsttheknife,trimmingawaytheouterleavesuntilonlythepalegreentoyellowbase
remains.Laytheartichokeonitssideandcutawaythetopsoftheremainingleaves,roughlywheretheleavesswellout.Withtheparingknife,peeloffthedarkgreen
skinoftheartichokeheartfromthebasetowardthestem,exposingthelightgreenfleshunderneath.Settheartichokeheartupsidedownontheworksurfaceandcutit
intoquarters.Trim

Page81
awaythehairychokes.Cutoffthestemsandcutthemintoinchpieces.Cuteachartichokequarterinto4or5pieces.Addtheartichoke,includingthestems,tothe
lemonwaterandrepeattheprocedurewiththeremainingartichokes.
Cookthepeasinalargepotofrapidlyboilinglightlysaltedwaterjustuntiltheyarebrightgreenbutstillcrisp,30to45seconds.Withaslottedspoon,transferthepeas
toabowloficewatertostopthecooking.
Cookthepotatoesintheboilingwateruntiltheyarebarelytender,about15minutes.Removethemfromthepanwithaslottedspoon,anddrainonakitchentowel
saltlightly.
Draintheartichokes,addtotheboilingwaterandcookuntiltheyarejusttender,about15minutes.(Thedishcanbepreparedtothispointupto4hoursinadvance
andthevegetablesrefrigerateduntilalmostreadytoserve.)
MeltthebutterinalargeskilletorDutchovenovermediumlowheat.Addthemushroomsandgreenonionsandcookuntiltheonionssoften,15to20minutes.
Addthepotatoesandartichokesandcookjustuntiltheyareheatedthrough.(Donotcookfortoolong,orthepotatoeswillbegintobreakdown.)Drainthepeasand
addthemwiththelettuceandcookjustuntilthelettucewilts,about5minutes.Addthemint,oreganoormarjoramandparsleyandstirtomixwell.Addtheremaining
lemonjuice.Seasontotastewithsalt.Serveindeepbowls.
6servings

Page82
stewofcharredtomatoes,pastaandcranberrybeans
CharringthetomatoesinadryskilletisatechniqueborrowedfromMexicancookingthatconcentratesthetomatoflavorandaddsasubtlesmokiness.Dontoverdo
theroasting:youwantthetomatoestobejustslightlyblackened.Freshcranberrybeansarenotasplentifulasfreshfavas,butyoucanoftenfindthematfarmers
marketsinthelatesummerandearlyfall.Ifyoucantgetthem,useanotherfreshbean,suchasfavasorlimas.

3
2
1
1

1
1
1
1

plumtomatoes
ouncesprosciutto,minced
tablespoonoliveoil
carrot,diced
yellowonion,diced
garlicclove,minced
smallsprigfreshsage
poundfreshcranberrybeans,shelled,or1cupsdried
cupswater
Salt
pounddriedpastashapes,suchasorecchietteormediumshells
tablespoonstornfreshbasilleaves

Slicethetomatoeslengthwiseinhalf.Heatastovetopgriddleuntilhot.Placethetomatoescutsidedownonthegriddleandcookuntiltheybegintoblackenandchar,
about5minutes.Turnthetomatoesoverandchartheoppositeside,about3minutes.Cool,thengentlysqueezeouttheseedsandchop.Setaside.
Inalargesautpanovermediumheat,cooktheprosciuttointheoiluntillightlybrowned,about5minutes.Addthecarrot,onionandgarlic,reducetheheatandcook,
covered,untilthevegetablessoften,about10minutes.

Page83
Addthesage,cranberrybeans,tomatoes,waterand1teaspoonsalt.Bringtoaboil,reducetheheattoasimmerandcook,covered,untilthebeansaresoft,about30
minutesiffresh,1hourand15minutesifdried.
Shortlybeforethebeansaredone,cookthepastainplentyofrapidlyboilingsaltedwateruntiljustaldente.Drainwell.Addthepastatothebeans,raisetheheatto
highandcook,stirring,for2to3minutestomeldtheflavors.Divideamong4pastabowls,garnishwiththebasilandserve.
4servings

Page84
ragoutofshrimpandfavabeans
Thoughalldriedbeansbeginfresh,todayonlyfavabeansarecommonlyconsumedinthatform.Thatsashame,becauseallthesocalledshellybeansaredelicious.
Freshfavastakeabunchofworktogetreadytheirbitterinnerpeelsmustberemovedoneatatimebuttheirdelicate,sweetgreenflavormakesitworthit.

2
3
1
2
1
1
1
3
1

poundsshrimpwithheadsor1poundshrimpwithoutheads,peeled(shellsandheadsreserved)
garliccloves,minced
teaspoonsalt,ormoretotaste
tablespoonsoliveoil
cupdrywhitewine
smallcarrot,finelychopped
mediumtomato,peeled,seededandchopped
poundsfreshfavabeans(inthepods)
teaspoonfreshthymeleaves

Combinetheshrimp,onethirdofthegarlic,thesaltandoilinabowl.Stirwelltocoat.Sealtightlyinazipperlockplasticbagandrefrigerateforatleast1hour,upto
4hours.
Rinsetheshrimpshells(andheads)wellunderrunningwater.Combinethemwiththewine,theremaininggarlic,thecarrotandtomatoinalargesaucepan,addwater
justtocover,andsimmerovermediumheatfor45minutesto1hour.
Removethefavabeansfromtheirpods,thenplacethebeansinabowl,coverwithboilingwaterandletstandfor5minutes.
Dumpthebeansintoacolanderandcoolwithcoldrunningwater.Useyourthumbnailtocutaslitinoneendofeachbean,then,withthethumbandforefingerofyour
otherhand,squeezethebeanoutintoabowl.

Page85
Straintheshrimpstockintoamediumsaucepan.Youshouldhave2to3cups.Addthebeansandbringtoasimmeroverlowheat,cookingthebeansjustuntil
tender,5minutes.(Thedishcanbemadetothispointupto8hoursaheadandrefrigerated,tightlycovered.)
Whenreadytoserve,bringthebeanstoarapidboilandaddthemarinatedshrimpandthyme.Cooktheshrimpthrough,3to5minutes.Tasteforsaltandservein
bowls.
6servings

Page86
grilledvegetablesandwich
Begenerouswiththeoilinthisrecipeitsnecessarytoreplacethemoisturethatevaporatesfromthecutsurfacesofthevegetablesduringtheintensedryheatof
grilling.Thevegetablescanalsobebroiled,buttheheatwontbeasintense,sotheflavorswontbeasconcentratedandthevegetableswilllackthesmokinessthat
comesfromgrilling.Thebestloafforthissandwichisaciabatta,along,flatrectanglethatcanbesplitneatlyintosandwichsizedlengths.Youcanalsouseanylong
rusticloafpreferablythelargerbtard,thoughathinnerbaguettewilldoinapinch.Ifusingeitherofthese,removesomeofthesoftinnerbreadaftersplitting.

2
1
1
1
6

longAsianeggplants
Oliveoilforbrushing,plus2tablespoons
Salt
redbellpeppers
mediumyellowonion
loafrusticbread,preferablyaciabatta(seeabove)
mediumtomato,sliced
ouncesfreshgoatcheese
cupfinelyslicedfreshbasilleaves
teaspoonsredwinevinegar
Freshlygroundblackpepper

Preheatthegrill.
Cutthestemsofftheeggplantsandslicethemlengthwiseintoquarters.Brushthequarterswithoilandgrillovermediumhighheat,turningoccasionally,untilsoftened
anddarkened,about10minutes.Removefromtheheatandsaltlightly.
Whiletheeggplantsarecooking,grilltheredpeppers,turning,untiltheyareblackenedonallsides,about10minutes.Removethepeppersandplacetheminazipper
lockplasticbagtocool.
Peeltheonion,beingcarefultoleavetherootendintact,andcutitinto6wedges.Grilltheonionuntilsoft,about7minutes,turningonce.

Page87
Peelthepeppersandremovethestems,seedsandveins.
Splitthebreadlengthwiseinhalf.Arrangethegrilledeggplant,peppers,onionandtomatoslicesinlayersonthebottomhalf.Crumblethecheeseoverthetop.Sprinkle
withthebasil.
Whisktogetherthe2tablespoonsoil,thevinegarandsaltandpeppertotasteanddrizzleoverthevegetables.
Placethetophalfoftheloafonthesandwichandpressdownlightly.Cutinto8piecesandserve.
8servings

Page88
stuffedzucchini
ThereisquiteacultofvegetablestuffingamongEuropeancooks.Itsagreatwaytouseupoversizedvegetablesandstretchalittlebitofmeatalongway.Bestofall,
stuffedvegetablestastegood.

3
1
2
1
2
1

1
2
1
1
2

largezucchini(about8incheslongand33inchesthick)
poundsplumtomatoes
tablespoonsoliveoil,plusmoreifneeded
poundgroundpork
sprigsfreshthyme
teaspoonfennelseeds
teaspooncrushedredpepper
Freshlygroundblackpepper
mediumyellowonion,chopped
garliccloves,minced
cupcubedstalebread,soakedincupmilk
Salt
largeegg,beaten
tablespoonstomatopaste
cupfreshlygratedpecorinoRomanocheese

Trimanddiscardtheendsofthezucchiniandcutthemintosectionsroughly2incheslong.Soaktheminlightlysaltedcoldwaterfor30minutestorefresh.
CutashallowXinthebottomofeachtomato.Dipthetomatoesintorapidlyboilingwaterjustuntiltheskinsbegintocomefree,about30seconds.Drainandrinse
brieflyundercoldrunningwater.Setasidetocool,thenpeel.
Heatthe2tablespoonsoilinalargeskilletorDutchovenovermediumheat.Whenhot,addtheporkandstirtobreakitup.Cook,stirringoccasionally,untilthepork
islightlybrowned,about10minutes.

Page89
Whiletheporkiscooking,useasmallsharpknifeormelonballertomakezucchinicups:Removethecenterofeachzucchinisection,leavingonlyaboutainch
shellofthevegetablearoundthesidesandatthebottomreservetheflesh.Saltthezucchinicupsandstandthemupsidedownonaplattertodrain.Chopandreserve
enoughofthefleshtomake1cup.
Preheattheovento350degrees.
Addthethyme,fennelseeds,crushedredpepperandblackpeppertotastetotheporkandtransferthemixturetoabowltocool.Drainmostofthefatfromthepan,
butleaveanybrownedbitsthathavestucktothebottom.Addhalfthechoppedoniontothepanandcookuntiltranslucent,about5minutes.Addhalfthegarlicand
cookuntilfragrant,about1minute.Addthereservedchoppedzucchiniandcookuntillightgolden,about5minutes.Addtothecookedpork.
Squeezethebreaddryandaddittotheporkmixture,alongwithteaspoonsalt.Mixthoroughly,squeezingthemixturebetweenyourfingerstobreakupthebread
andbindthemixture.Tasteandcorrecttheseasonings,thenbeatintheegg.
Spoontheporkmixtureintothezucchinicups,packingitastightlyaspossibleandmoundingitalittleontop.Smooththetopswiththebackofaspoon.
Inthepanyouusedtocookthemeat,cooktheremainingonionovermediumheatuntiltranslucent,about5minutes,addingabitofoilonlyifnecessary.Addthe
remaininggarlicandcookuntilitisfragrant,about1minute.
Meanwhile,cutthetomatoesinhalfandsqueezeouttheseeds.Coarselychopthetomatoesandaddtotheonionandgarlic,alongwiththetomatopaste.Increasethe
heattohighandcook,stirringandscrapingthebrownedbitsfromthebottomandsidesofthepan,untilthetomatoesbegintosoftenandbubble,about3minutes.
Seasontotastewithsaltandpepper.

Page90
Pourthetomatosauceintoaroastingpan.Arrangethezucchinicups(meatsideup)inthepan.Covertightlyandbakeuntilthezucchinicanbepiercedeasilywitha
toothpick,about45minutes.
Removethecoverandsprinklethecheeseoverthezucchini.Increasetheheatto450degreesandbakeuntilthecheesemeltsandbeginstobrown,about10minutes.
Removefromtheoven.
Transferthezucchinicupstoawarmplatter.Ifthetomatosauceistooliquid,reduceitoverhighheatuntilitthickens,about5minutes(atmost).Spoonthesauce
aroundthestuffedzucchiniandserve.
6servings

Page91
eggplantandgoatcheesecasserole
Somecooksswearthateggplanthastobesaltedbeforecooking.Theysayitremovesbitterjuices.Infact,whethertosaltornotdependsonhowtheeggplantistobe
cooked.Addingsalttoeggplantthatisgoingtobefriedresultsinasofter,plushertexture,butithaslittleornoeffectoneggplantthatwillbegrilled.

3
1
4
2

2
1
1

(1to1pound)eggplants
Salt
mediumyellowonion,finelychopped
Aboutcupoliveoil
garliccloves,minced
(28ounce)canscrushedtomatoes
teaspooncrushedredpepper
Freshlygroundblackpepper
tablespoonschoppedfreshbasil
(11ounce)logfreshgoatcheese
(8ounce)ballmozzarella,grated

Peeltheeggplantsandcutlengthwiseintoslicestoinchthick.Saltliberallyonbothsidesandarrangeinoverlappinglayersonajellyrollpan.Propuprightover
thesinkandletdrainforatleasthours.
Preheattheovento400degrees.
Sauttheonionin2tablespoonsoftheoilinalargesaucepanorskilletovermediumhighheatuntilitbeginstosoftenandturntranslucent,about5minutes.Addthe
garlicandcookuntilhighlyfragrant,about2minutes.Addthetomatoesandcrushedredpepperandcookuntilthesauceisslightlythickened,about20minutes.
Seasontotastewithsaltandpepper,addthebasilandkeepwarm.
Rinsetheeggplantslicesundercoldrunningwaterandpatdrywithpapertowels.Heat2tablespoonsoftheoilinalargenonstickskilletovermediumhighheat.Add4
slicesoftheeggplantandcookuntillightlybrownedononeside,about10minutes.Flipandcook,withoutaddingoil,untilthesecondsideislightlybrowned,about10
more

Page92
minutes.(Thiscanbedoneintwoskilletstospeedtheprocess.)Repeatuntilalltheeggplantisfried,usingmoreoilasneeded.
Spreadaboutcupstomatosauceoverthebottomofalargegratinorbakingdish.Arrangehalfoftheeggplantin1layer,overlappingtheslicesontopofthesauce.
Doteachslicewithawalnutsizedknobofgoatcheeseandladleoverenoughtomatosaucetobarelycover.
Repeat,usingtheremainingeggplantslices.Dotthesliceswiththeremaininggoatcheese,andladleontheremainingtomatosauce.Distributethemozzarellaevenly
acrossthetop.
Bakeuntilthemozzarellameltsandbrowns,about30minutes.Removefromtheovenandletcoolfor10minutesbeforeserving.
8to10servings

Page93

fruit,cookedandraw
Buythefollowingfruitsfullyripe:berries,cherries,grapes,watermelonandcitrus.Allexceptberriescanberefrigeratedwithoutlosingflavor.

Thesefruitswillsoftenanddevelopmorecomplexflavors(thoughnotmoresweetness)afterpicking:apricots,melons,figs,peaches,nectarines,plumsand
persimmons.Storethematroomtemperatureuntiltheyareasripeasyouwantthem.Afterthat,refrigerationwillextendthelifeofthefruit,thoughitwillmutethe
flavor.

Youcanrefrigeratefruitssuchasapples,ripepearsandripemangoesassoonasyoubuythemwithnoilleffects.

Ifyoubuystonefruitandpearsthatarehard,youcanripenthembystoringthematroomtemperatureinaclosedpaperbag.Addinganapplewillspeedthe
process.

Fruitssuchasapplesandpearswillbrownwhencutandexposedtooxygen.Theyshouldbecoveredwithacidulatedwater(waterwithlemonjuice)iftheyaregoing
tobeheldforverylong.

Fruitcanbecookedwithoutheat.Sugardrawsthewateroutofthecells,collapsingthemandsofteningthefruit.Forthisreason,wheneveryouusesugaredfruitin
arecipe,eitheruseitimmediatelyaftersugaringorbecarefultodrainofftheliquidbeforeaddingit.

Youcanproducecomplexflavorsbycombiningfruitsandpoachingthemverygentlyinasimplesugarsyrup(waterandsugarbroughtjusttoaboil,thencooled).
Forafruitcompote,useequalmeasuresofsugarandwaterforalightersyrup,usehalfasmuchsugaraswater.

Page94
Somefruitsmostnotablypeachesneedtobepeeledbeforecooking.CutashallowXinthebottomofthepeachanddropitintoboilingwaterforafew
seconds.Removeandimmediatelyplungethepeachintoicewatertostopthecookingthepeelshouldsliderightoff.Ifitdoesnt,returnthepeachtotheboilingwater
foralittlelonger.

Mostfruitsthatarecookedneedalittleaciditysuchascitrusjuice,notonlytobrightentheirflavorsbuttomaintaintheircolor.

Page95
strawberrysoup
Thisisawonderfulwaytopunchupberriesthatarealittletoofirmornotquitesweetenough.Thecombinationofredwineandvanillaeffectivelymakesupforany
lackofflavor,andthesugarbothsweetensandslightlysoftensthefruit.

1
1
1
2
1
6

(750milliliter)bottlelightdryredorroswine
cupsugar
(3inch)piecevanillabean
pintsstrawberries,washedandhulled
cupsvanillaicecream
almondorsugarwafercookies

Combinethewineandsugarinalargebowlandwhiskwelltodissolve.Splitthevanillabeaninhalfandscrapetheseedsintothewinemixture.Addthebean.
Leavesmallstrawberrieswholecutlargerberriesintopiecesofsimilarsize.Addtothewinecombinationandletmacerateintherefrigeratorforatleast2hours,or
overnight.
Toserve,ladletheberriesandwineintobowls.Topeachwithacupscoopoficecreamandacookie.
6servings

Page96
slicedmelonsinlimemintsyrup
Byaddinglimeandmint,youcanheightentheflavorofmelonsthatmightbelessthanperfect.Butthesecomplementaryflavorswillimproveevengreatmelons.This
recipeisadaptedfromadishservedatEcho,asmalltreasureofarestaurantinFresno,California.PartnersTimWoodsandAdamsHollandtreatlocalproducesimply
andwithrespect.Theirversionofthisdessertusesonlymintinthesyrup,butIvefoundthatgratedlimezestaddsanotherdimension.Mixtwoorthreemelonvarieties
foranassortmentofcolors,flavorsandtextures.
Thepeelingmethoddetailedhereworkswellforfirmmelons.Withriper,softermelons,itsbettertocutthemintothinsliceswiththerindsattached,thenstackseveral
slicesandremovetherinds.Ifyourmelonsareverysweet,decreasethesugartocupiftheyreontheblandside,increasethesugartocup.

23
2

cupswater
cupsugar
sprigsfreshmint
Gratedzestof1lime
poundsassortedmelons

Combinethewaterandsugarinasmallsaucepanandbringtoaboil,whiskinguntilthesugariscompletelydissolved.Removefromtheheat.Addthemintandlime
zestandletstanduntilcool.
Strainthesyrupintoaliddedjar,coverandchill.
Cutthemelonsinhalfandremovetheseeds.Placeeachhalfcutsidedownonacuttingboardandsliceoffthetopinch.Cutawaythepeelwithasharpknife,
workingdownthemelonin2to3inchstrips.Cuteachhalflengthwiseintoquarters,thenintoinchslices.(Themelonscanbetightlycoveredandrefrigeratedfor
about2hours.)
Arrangethemelonslicesonalarge,deepplatter,pourthesyrupoverandserve.
8to10servings

Page97
fallfruitcompote
Youcanusethisasamodelforothercompotes.Addthefruitthattakesthelongesttocooktothesyrupfirstandproceed,addingotherfruitsinorderoftheircooking
times.Here,thequincestakealongtime,whilethedriedfruitsmerelyneedtoplumpupabit.Insteadofquinces,youcoulduseapples,whichneedtopoachforabout
10minutes,orpears,whichneedonly5to7minutes,dependingonripeness.Servewithplainbuttercookiesorpoundcake.

1
1

poundsquinces(seeabove)
cupwater
cupsugar
cupMuscatorotherraisins
cupdriedapricots
cupdriedsourcherries

Peelthequinces,cutthemintoquartersandremovethecores.Cuteachquarterlengthwiseinhalfandtheninhalfacross,makingroughlywalnutsizedpieces.
Combinethequinces,waterandsugarinamediumsaucepanandbringtoasimmerovermediumlowheat,stirringtodissolvethesugar.Covertightlyandcontinue
cookinguntilthefruitisrosyandtender,45to60minutes.
Addtheraisins,apricotsandcherries,coverandcookfor10minutes.Removefromtheheatandletstanduntilthedriedfruitshaveplumpedandsoftened,about10
moreminutes.
Servewarmoratroomtemperature.
4servings

Page98
quinceapplesauce
Quincesaredeliciousinapplesauce,addingamuskyspicinessandadelicatepinkcolor.Theydotakemuchlongertocookthanapples,though,sobesuretoslice
themverythinandtocuttheapplesintolargechunkstoensurethatthetwoaredoneatthesametime.Ifyoureoneofthosepeoplewhohabituallydouseapplesauce
withgroundcinnamonorcloves,tastethisonefirstseasoningprobablywontbenecessary.Everyapplevarietyhasitsownflavorandtexturewhencooked.
Almostanyofthemwillworkwellinthisrecipe,withtheexceptionofRedDelicious,whichusuallytasteslikewetcardboardwhencooked.Thisapplesauceisnottoo
sweetandiswonderfulwithroastporkorduck.

6
1

apples(notRedDelicious),peeled,coredandquartered
quince,peeled,coredandthinlysliced
cupwater
tablespoonssugar

Combinetheapples,quinceandwaterinamediumsaucepan.Covertightlyandcookovermediumheat,stirringoccasionallytopreventsticking,untilthequinceis
tender,about20minutes.
Addthesugarandcook,stirring,untiltheapplesbegintofallapart,about5minutes.Finishthepureewithahandheldimmersionblenderorapotatomasher.Serve
warmorcold,accordingtoyourtaste.
6servings

Page99
dreamsicleoranges
Slicedorangeswithvanillascentedsugarsyrupareagrownupversionofafavoritelittlekidtaste.Servethisincrediblyeasydessertwithgoodsugarcookies.

6
2
2
1

naveloranges
cupswater
cupssugar
vanillabean,splitlengthwise

Withathin,sharpknife,sliceoffthetopsandbottomsoftheorangessothatthefleshshows.Standanorangeonthecuttingboard.Startingwiththeknifeatthepoint
wherethewhiteofthepeelmeetstheorangefleshandfollowingthecurveoftheorange,useagentledownwardsawingmotiontosliceato2inchwidestripof
peelfromtheorange,cuttingawayallthewhitebutleavingasmuchfleshaspossible.Repeatuntilallthepeelisremoved.Repeatwiththeremainingoranges,reserving
thepeelof2oranges.
Combinethewaterandsugarinasaucepan,bringtoaboilovermediumheatandcookfor5minutes.Scrapetheseedsfromthevanillabeanintothepanandthenadd
thebeanhalves.Addthereservedorangepeelsandboilfor2to3minutes,thenremovefromtheheatandletsteepfor30to60minutes.
Whilethesyrupiscooling,carefullyslicetheorangeshorizontallyintoinchslices.Carefullyremoveanyseeds.
Layertheorangeslicesinalarge,shallowservingbowl.Pourthesyrupthroughastrainerovertheslices.ArrangethevanillabeanstripsinanXontop.Covertightly
withplasticwrapandchillforatleast1hourbeforeserving.
6servings

Page100
candiedcitruspeel
Citruspeelisimpossiblybitterwhenraw,butrepeatedblanchingsandagoodsoakinginsugarsyruptamethepuckertoapleasanttingle.Thisisawonderfultreatto
keeponhandduringtheholidays.

5
2
5

cupssugar
cupswater
poundscitrusfruit(grapefruit,orangeorlemon)

Combine4cupsofthesugarandthewaterinalargesaucepan.Bringtoaboil,stirringtocombine.(Youwillhaveabout2cupssyrup.)Removefromtheheat.
Meanwhile,scorethepeelofthecitrusfruitinto2inchwidesections,cuttingthroughthepeelbutnotintothefruit.Usingyourfingers,pulloffthepeel,carefullyrunning
yourthumbbetweenthepeelandthefruittoseparatethetwo.Reservethefruitforanotheruse.
Putthepeelinasaucepan,coverwithwaterandbringtoaboildrainandrinsebrieflyundercoldwater.Blanchinthesamemannertwomoretimesdrain.Usinga
thin,sharpknife,removeasmuchofthesoftpithaspossible.Youshouldbeabletoseesomecolorthroughanyremainingpith,butthepeelwillbemuchthickerthan
plainzest.Cutintoshredstoinchwide.
Returnthepeeltothesaucepan,coverwithcoldwaterandbringtoasimmer.Cookuntilthepeelbeginstoloseitsrawlook,5to10minutes.Drainandimmediately,
withoutrinsingthepeel,transferittoalargemixingbowl.Coverwiththehotsugarsyrupandsetasidefor1hourtocandy.
Preheattheovento250degrees.
Placetheremaining1cupsugarinanotherlargemixingbowl.Addthepeelandtosstocoatwell.Shakingtoremovetheexcesssugar,transferthepeeltoacooling
racksetoverajellyrollpantocatch

Page101
thedrippingsyrup,arrangingitinasinglelayerasmuchaspossible.Placeintheovenfor30minutestodry.
Removethepeelfromtheovenandletstandatroomtemperaturetofinishdrying.Thepeelwillcontinuetobecomefirmerandchewieroverseveraldays.Whenthe
peelreachesthedesiredtexture,storeitinanairtightcontaineruntilreadytouse.Thecandiedpeelwillkeepforabout2months.
About40dozenpieces

Page102
ultimatestrawberryshortcake
ThegreatAmericanshortcakeisreallyaslightlysweetenedcreambiscuit.Itshouldbelightandflakynothinglikethoserubberyshockabsorbersyoufindinthe
grocerystore.

STRAWBERRIES
4

pintsstrawberries,rinsedandhulled
cupsugar

SHORTCAKES
2
1
3
8

cupsallpurposeflour
tablespoonbakingpowder
tablespoonssugar
Dashofsalt
tablespoons(1stick)unsaltedbutter,chilledandcutinto8pieces
cupheavy(whipping)cream
cupsheavy(whipping)cream,whippedtosoftpeaks

Preparethestrawberries:Cutthestrawberriesinhalf.Puttheminalargebowlandtossthemwiththesugar.Setasidefor30minutestomacerate.
Maketheshortcakes:Preheattheovento350degrees.
Sifttheflour,bakingpowder,sugarandsaltintoamixingbowl.Scatterthebutterovertopandrubthebutterandflourbetweenyourfingersorcutthebutterinwitha
pairofknivesorapastrycutter,untilthemixtureresemblescoarsecornmeal,withafewlargerlumpsofbutterleftintact.Addhalfthecreamandstiritinwithafork.
Addtheremainderofthecupcreambitbybit,untilamassformsthatpullscleanlyawayfromthebottomandsidesofthebowlyoumaynotneedallthecream.
Onalightlyflouredworksurface,quicklyandlightlykneadthedoughuntilitissmoothandcohesive.Gentlyrollitoutinchthick.Cutouttheshortcakeswitha3
inchbiscuitcutteroralightlyflouredjuice

Page103
glass.Gathertheleftoverdoughtogether,kneaditagainbrieflyandrollitoutagain.Cutoutmoreshortcakes.Youshouldhave10shortcakes.
Placetheshortcakes1inchapartonanunbutteredbakingsheetandbakeuntillightlybrownedandslightlycrusty,10to15minutes.Removefromtheovenandcool
slightly.
Assembletheshortcakes:Spliteachshortcakewhileitisstillwarmandplacethebottomhalvesondessertplates.Spoonplentyofstrawberriesoverthebottomhalves,
addagenerousspoonfulofwhippedcream,topwiththeremaininghalvesoftheshortcakesandserve.
10servings

Page104
perfumedstrawberries
inmeringuebaskets
Strawberriesarefromthesamebotanicalfamilyasroses,andifyousniffhardenough,youcandetectatraceoftheflowersperfume.Forthatreason,theadditionof
rosegeraniumtothefruitisnotaswhimsicalasitmayseem.Ifyoudrathernotmakeyourown,readymademeringuebasketsorshellscanbeboughtatmany
bakeries.

MERINGUEBASKETS
4

largeeggwhites
teaspooncreamoftartar
cupsugar,preferablysuperfine
teaspoonvanillaextract

STRAWBERRIES
2
2
1

pintsstrawberries,washedandhulled
tablespoonssugar
tablespoonsnipped(unsprayed)rosegeraniumleaves(optional)

Makethemeringuebaskets:Preheattheovento250degrees.Lineabakingsheetwithparchment.
Beattheeggwhitesinalargebowluntilfoamy.Addthecreamoftartar,thenaddthesugar1tablespoonatatime,beatingwellaftereachaddition,untilthewhitesare
stiffandglossyandthesugariscompletelydissolved.Foldinthevanillaextract.
Spoonthemeringueintoapastrybagwithamediumstartip.Pipesix3inchdisksofmeringueontotheparchmentlinedbakingsheetsmootheachdiskwiththeback
ofaspoon.Pipearingofmeringuearoundtheedgeofeachdisk.Repeattwicetoformthreetieredbaskets.
Bakethemeringuesfor1hour.Turnofftheovenandleavethemeringuesinitfor6morehourstodry.Thebasketscanbestoredinanairtightcontainerfor1week.

Page105
Preparethestrawberries:Putonequarteroftheberriesinalargebowlandcrushthemwithafork.Addthesugarandgeraniumleaves,ifusing,andstirtocombine
well.
Cuttheremainingberriesintobitesizedpieces.Combinethemwiththecrushedberriesandspoonthemintothemeringuebaskets.Serveimmediately.
6servings

Page106
mangocrepeswithmexicancream
Thisallpurposecrepebattercanbeusedforsavorydishesifyousimplyleaveoutthesugarandcinnamon.Mexicancreamisavailableinthecheesesectionofmany
supermarketsorinLatinogrocerystores.Ifyoucantfindit,usecrmefracheorsourcreamthinnedwithalittleheavycream.

CREPES
1

3
1
1

cupmilk
cupwater
largeeggs
cupallpurposeflour
tablespoonsugar
teaspoonsalt
teaspoongroundcinnamon
tablespoons(stick)unsaltedbutter,melted,plusmoreforcooking

FRUIT
4
1
1
2
1
1
1

mangoes
(pound)pieceseededpapaya
tablespoonsugar
tablespoonsorangeliqueur,suchasGrandMarnierorCointreau
Juiceof2limes
cupMexicancream(seeabove)
tablespoonsugar
tablespoonorangeliqueur,suchasGrandMarnierorCointreau

Makethecrepes:Combinecupofthemilk,thewater,eggs,flour,sugar,saltandcinnamoninablenderandpulseuntilsmooth.Withtheblenderrunning,addthe
butter.Thebattershouldbethethicknessofheavycream.Ifnecessary,adduptocupmoremilk.Strainintoabowl,coverandrefrigeratefor1hour.

Page107
Removethebatterfromtherefrigeratorandstirwithawhisk.Heata9inchnonstickskilletovermediumhighheat.Rubitlightlywithbutter.Pouraboutcupofthe
batterintothecenterofthepan,tiltingthepantospreadthebatterevenlyovertheentirebottom.Returnthepantotheheatandcookuntilthetopofthecrepeappears
dry,about1minute.Turnthecrepeandcookitbrieflyontheothersideuntilitisspeckled.Removeittoaplateandrepeatuntilallthebatterisused,addingalittle
morebutterifthecrepesbegintostick.(Youwillneed12crepes.Anyleftovercrepescanbestoredintherefrigeratorwrappedinplasticwrap,withsheetsofwaxed
paperbetweenthem,for1week.)
Preparethefruit:Removethefleshfromeachmangobymakingaslightlyconcavedownwardcutwithasharpknifeparalleltothepitandslicingoffthefleshturnthe
mangoaroundandrepeatontheotherside.Makediamondshapedcutsthroughthefleshoneachmangohalfdownto,butnotthrough,theskin.Inverteachmango
halfsoitturnsinsideoutandthediamondspopup,thencutthediamondsfreeintoabowl.Removetheskinfromthefleshremainingaroundeachmangopitandcutthe
fleshintothebowl.
Gratethepapaya,usingthebigholesonaboxgrater,directlyintothebowlwiththemangoes.Addthesugar,liqueurandlimejuiceandtosstocoatwell.
Whiskthecreaminasmallbowluntilitisslightlythickened.Whiskinthesugarandliqueur.
Assemblethecrepes:Layacrepeonadessertplate,brownedsidedown.Spreaditlightlywiththewhippedcreamandtopwithaboutcupofthefruit.Foldthe
crepeintoquarters.Repeatwithasecondcrepeonthesameplate.Repeatusingtheremainingcrepes.Garnishwiththeremainingfruitandserve.
6servings

Page108
cornmealcrepes
withspicedplumcompote

Thecornmealaddsaslightcrunchandalittlenuttytastetothecrepes.Becauseofthat,youdontneedtoaddmeltedbuttertothisbatterithasenoughflavorofits
own.

CREPES
2
2
2
1

largeeggs
largeeggyolks
cupsmilk
cupallpurposeflour
cupfinecornmeal
teaspoonsugar
Dashofsalt

COMPOTE
4
1
2
4

cupscoarselychoppedpittedplums(aboutpounds)
cupssugar
cinnamonsticks
wholecloves
Powderedsugar

Makethecrepes:Combinetheeggs,eggyolks,milk,flour,cornmeal,sugarandsaltinablenderandpulseuntilsmooth.Thebattershouldbetheconsistencyof
whippingcream.Ifitsnot,adjustthethicknessbyaddingalittlemoreflourormilkasnecessary.Refrigerate,covered,foratleast1hoursotheglutenstrandsrelax.
Removethebatterfromtherefrigeratorandstirwithawhisk.Heata9inchnonstickskilletovermediumhighheat.Rubitlightlywithbutter.Pouraboutcupofthe
batterintothecenterofthepan,tiltingthepantospreadthebatterevenlyovertheentirebottom.Returnthepantotheheatandcookuntilthetopofthecrepeappears
dry,about1minute.Turnthecrepeandcookitbrieflyontheothersideuntilitisspeckled.Removeittoaplateandrepeatuntilallthe

Page109
batterisused.(Youwillneed12crepes.Anyleftovercrepescanbestoredintherefrigeratorwrappedinplasticwrap,withsheetsofwaxedpaperbetweenthem,for
1week.)
Makethecompote:Combinetheplums,sugar,cinnamonsticksandclovesinasmallsaucepanandcookovermediumheatuntiltheplumsaresoftandthejuiceshave
thickened,20to30minutes,dependingontheripenessoftheplums.Removefromtheheatandletcool.Removeanddiscardthecinnamonsticksandcloves.
Assemblethecrepes:Preheatthebroiler.Spreadaboutcupofthecompoteover1crepe,thenfoldthecrepeintoquarters.Sprinkleitlightlywithpowderedsugar.
Placethecrepeonabakingsheetandrepeatwiththeremainingcrepesandcompote.Glazethecrepesunderthebroilerfor2to3minutesbecarefulnottoburn.
Serveimmediately.
4servings

Page110
cornmealwaffles
withwinterfruitcompote

Thesewafflesaredelicateandairy,withanicecrunchandaslightlybitteredgefromthecornmeal.Theyrewonderfulbythemselves,andtheymakeatrulyelegant
brunchdishordessertwhenservedwiththecompote.Thecompoteisalsogoodonitsownorservedwithbuttercookiesorasliceofpoundcake.

COMPOTE
1
1
1
4
2
1

cuppittedprunes,quartered
cupdriedapricots,quartered
cupdriedappleslices,cutintoinchpieces
largeripepears,suchasBartlettorComice,peeled,coredandcutintoinchdice
teaspoonsgratedorangezest
cupsfreshorangejuice
cupsugar
cupwater

WAFFLES

4
2

cupcakeflour
cupcornmeal
teaspoonssugar
teaspoonsbakingpowder
teaspoonbakingsoda
teaspoonsalt
cupbuttermilk
cupsourcream
largeeggs,separated

Makethecompote:Inalargenonreactivesaucepan,combinetheprunes,apricots,apples,pears,orangezest,orangejuice,waterandsugar.Bringtoaboiloverhigh
heat.Reducetheheattolow,coverandsimmeruntilthefruitistender,7to8minutes.Keepwarmoverlowheatwhileyoumakethewaffles.

Page111
Makethewaffles:Preheatthewaffleiron.Sifttogethertheflour,cornmeal,sugar,bakingpowder,bakingsodaandsaltinalargebowl.
Inalargemeasuringcuporasmallbowl,stirtogetherthebuttermilk,sourcreamandeggyolks.Inamediumbowl,beattheeggwhitesuntilstiffpeaksform.Addthe
sourcreammixturetothedryingredients,stirbrieflyjustuntilthebattertakesonapebblytexture.Foldintheeggwhites.
Pourthebatterintothewaffleironandbakeaccordingtothemanufacturersinstructions.Servethewafflesimmediately,eachonetoppedwithcupofthecompote.
(Storeanyleftovercompotetightlysealedintherefrigeratorforupto1week.)
6servings

Page112
vanillabakedapples
withbourbonsauce
Theresnothingsimplerthanabakedapple.Thereareacoupleofthingstobecarefulabout,though.First,besuretocutoffastripofpeelfromaroundthetopofeach
apple.Ifyoudont,theskinwillcrackandslipdownasthefleshbeginstoswellfromtheheat.Servetheappleswithcrmefracheorvanillaicecream.

2
6

tablespoonschoppedpecans
largebakingapples(preferablyPinkLadyorGoldenDelicious)
cupsugar
cuppackedlightbrownsugar
vanillabean
cupbourbon
Sliveredzestoflemon
tablespoonsbutter

Preheattheovento350degrees.
Toastthepecansinasmalldryskilletovermediumheat,stirringoccasionally,untilfragrant,about5minutes.Donotscorch.Transfertoasmallmixingbowl.
Whilethepecansaretoasting,coretheapplestowithininchofthebottom,leavingthebottomintacttoactasacup.Trimathinbandofpeelfromaroundthetopof
eachappleandplacetheapplesinalargebakingpan.
Addbothsugarstothebowlwiththepecansandstirtocombinewell.Cutthevanillabeaninto6segmentsandplace1segmentinthecenterofeachapple.Spoona
liberalamountofthesugaredpecansintothecenterofeachapple,butdonotpack.Sprinkletheremainingpecanmixtureovertopoftheapples.
Heatthebourboninasmallpanuntilitisalmostboiling.Removefromtheheatand,beingcarefultoprotectyourhandsandface,ignitewithamatch.Allowtheflame
todieout.

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Scatterthelemonzestaroundtheapplesandpourthebourbonintothepan.Coverwithaluminumfoilandbake,checkingoccasionallyandaddingwaterifnecessary
tokeepthebottomofthepanmoist,untiltheapplesarealmostdone,about45minutes.Removethefoil,increasetheheatto450degreesandbakeuntilasharpknife
canbeinsertedeasilyintotheapples,10to15minutesmore.
Removefromtheovenandplacetheappleson6dessertplates.Withaslottedspoon,removethelemonzest.Stirthebutterintothehotreducedbourboninthepan
untilasauceforms.Spoonthesauceandanybitsofnutsremaininginthepanovertheapplesandserve.
6servings

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apricotalmondclafoutis
Aclafoutisbatteriscloselyrelatedtoapancakebatter.Youcansubstitutecherriesoranyotherfruit(halvedorcutup,asappropriate)fortheapricots.Lettingthe
batterstandrelaxesanyglutenstrandsthatdevelopduringthebriefmixing,sothetextureoftheclafoutiswillbedelicate.

cupsugar,plusmoreforsprinkling
largeeggs
cupheavy(whipping)cream
cupmilk
teaspoonalmondextract
cupallpurposeflour
apricots,cutinhalfandpitted
cupsliveredalmonds

Preheattheovento400degrees.Heavilybuttera9inchpieplateandsprinklewithsugar.
Combinethecupsugar,eggs,cream,milkandalmondextractinablenderorafoodprocessorandblenduntilsmooth.Sifttheflouroverthemixtureandpulsejust
tomix.Letthebatterstandfor10minutes.
Arrangetheapricotscutsidedowninthepreparedpieplate.Pourthebatterovertheapricots.Sprinklethetopwiththealmondsand1to2tablespoonssugar.
Bakeuntilpuffedandbrown,about45minutes.Serveimmediately.
6to8servings

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berryicecream
Thismixofmilk,halfandhalfandcreamyieldsatotalfatpercentageofabout18percent,therightamountforatexturethatisrichbutnotsofattythatitcoatsthe
palate.Thegeneroushalfcupofsugarisjustenoughtosweetentheicecreamlightly.Theberriesneedtobesugaredbeforehandtodrawoffsomeoftheirliquid.
Otherwise,theyllturnintoicecubeswhenyoufreezetheicecream.

1
1
2

cupsberriesorblackberriesorquarteredstrawberries,oracombination
cupplus3tablespoonssugar
cupmilk
cuphalfandhalf
cupsheavy(whipping)cream
Dashofsalt

Inamediumbowl,combinecupoftheberriesand2tablespoonsofthesugar.Mashwell.Addtheremaining1cupberriesandstir.Letthemixturestandforatleast
30minutes.
Inaseparatebowl,combinethemilk,halfandhalf,cream,theremainingcupplus1tablespoonsugarandthesalt.Stirwelltodissolvethesugar.
Freezethemixtureaccordingtotheinstructionsprovidedwithyouricecreammaker.Whenitisalmostfrozen,draintheberriesandstirintotheicecream.
Packintoaglassormetaldish,covertightlyandhardeninthefreezerforatleast1hourbeforeserving.
1quart(8servings)

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stonefruiticecream
Peachicecreamshouldbereallypeachy.Ivedoubledtheusualproportionofpeacheshere.Sugarthefruitbeforehandtopreventitfromfreezingintorockhard
slices.

cupssliced,peeledpeaches,plumsornectarines,oracombination
cupplus1tablespoonsugar
cupheavy(whipping)cream
cupmilk
cuphalfandhalf
teaspoonalmondextract
Dashofsalt

Combinethefruitandcupofthesugarinabowlandtosswelltomix.Letstandforatleast1houratroomtemperature.
Inaseparatebowl,combinetheremainingcupplus1tablespoonsugar,thecream,milk,halfandhalf,almondextractandsalt.
Freezethemixtureaccordingtotheinstructionsprovidedwithyouricecreammaker.Whenitisalmostfrozen,drainthesugaredfruit,stiritintothemixtureandfinish
freezing.Packintoaglassormetaldishandhardeninthefreezerforatleast1hourbeforeserving.
1quart(8servings)

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whitepeachandfigicecream
Papain,anenzymeinripefigs,willcurdlemilk(itssometimesusedincheesemaking).Forthatreason,thisicecreammustbeeatenwithinadayofbeingmade.As
deliciousasitis,thatshouldntbeaproblem.

2
4
1
1
2
1
1

whitepeaches
freshfigs,preferablyKadota(lightgreen)
cupplus1tablespoonsugar
tablespoonamarettoorotheralmondflavoredliqueur
cupsheavy(whipping)cream
cupmilk
cuphalfandhalf
Dashofsalt

Peel,halveandpitthepeaches.Cutthefleshintotoinchcubes,takingcarenottobruiseit,andplaceinamixingbowl.Removethestemsfromthefigsand
coarselychopthem.Addtothebowlwiththepeachesandgentlystirincupplus1tablespoonofthesugarandtheamaretto.Covertightlywithplasticwrapandchill
foratleast1hourandupto4hours.
Inaseparatemixingbowl,combinethecream,milk,halfandhalf,theremainingcupsugarandthesalt.Stirtocombinewell.
Freezethecreammixtureaccordingtotheinstructionsprovidedwithyouricecreammakeruntilitisalmostsolid,thenaddthefruitmixtureandfinishfreezing.Packthe
icecreamintoaglassormetaldish,covertightlyandfreezefor1hourbeforeserving.
1quart(8servings)

Page118

jamsandjellies
Youdontneedalotofspecialequipmenttomakejam,butcleanlinessisallimportant.Youwillneedabigpotwithaliner,suchasoneusedtocookpasta,anda
heavysaucepanorskillet.Aspecialwidemouthedfunnelfortransferringthejamtothejarishandy.

Youcanreusejamjars,butyoullneedtobuynewlidseachtime.Jars,lids,ladle,funnelandanyotherequipmentshouldbeboiledfor2to3minutestosterilize
them.

Donotuseoldfruitforjammaking.Asfruitages,itspectinsbreakdown.Thebestfruitforjamandjelliesisslightlyunderripe.

Formostjamsandjellies,useslightlylesssugarbyweightthantheamountofpreparedfruit.

Cookjamsandjelliesinsmallbatchessoyoucanheatthemixturetoauniformtemperaturewithoutscorchingitonthebottom.

Therearemanywaystotellwhenajellyhasset.Noneofthemseemtoworkforeveryoneallthetime.Herearethetwothatseemtobebest:First,scoopupsome
oftheliquidpartofthejellyinametalspoonwhenithasproperlyset,themixturewilldripoffthespoonatdifferentpointsratherthaninonesmoothstream.Theother
methodistospoonasmallamountofjellyontoachilledsaucer.Ifitsitsuprightratherthanimmediatelyspreadingout,itisset.

Fillthesterilizedjarstowithininchofthetop,placethesterilizedlidsontopandthentightenthebands.Arrangethejarsinthelinerofthepotandsubmergein
boilingwaterfor10minutes.Removethejarsfromthewaterandsetthemaside.Astheycool,youllhearapingingsoundthatsthelidssealingtight.

Whenthejarsarecompletelycool,pressthecenterofeachlidthereshouldbenospringiness.Ifthereis,repeatthecanningprocedureorstorethejarsinthe
refrigerator.

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strawberrypreserves
Thebestwaytotellwhenamixturehasreachedthejellyingpointisbyfeel:thesyrupwillthickenintoajam.ThisrecipeisavariationononebySylviaThompson,
authorofTheKitchenGardenCookbook.

2
2

poundsstrawberries,washedandhulled
cupssugar
cupfreshlemonjuice(oracombinationoflemonandorangejuices)

Setasidehalftheberries,choosingthelargestandfirmestones.Placetheremainingberriesinalargebowl,add1cupsofthesugarandthejuiceandcrushwitha
fork.Addtheremainingsugarandstirwell,thenaddthereservedwholeberries.
Placetheberriesinawideheavypotoverhighheat.Cook,stirring,untilthemixturecomestoafullrollingboil.Skimoffthefoam,transfertoamixingbowlandset
aside,uncovered,foratleast6hoursorovernighttoletthesyruppenetratethefruit.
Thenextday,ladlecupsoftheberrymixtureintoaheavysaucepanorskillet.Bringtoaboiloverhighheatandcook,stirring,untilthemixturejells,asdescribedon
page118.Ladleintosterilizedjars.Repeatwiththeremainingfruitandprocessasdescribedonpage118.
4(pint)jars

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nectarineandrosegeraniumjam
This,ifIdosaysomyself,isagreatjam.Thesprigsofleafaddjustahintoffloweryroseflavortothenectarines.

2
1

poundsslicednectarines
cupssugar
teaspoonfreshlemonjuice
sprigs(unsprayed)rosegeranium

Bringthenectarinesandsugartoaboilinalargeskillet,stirringconstantly.Cookovermediumhighheatuntilthejuicesaretranslucentandthefruitissoftened.Addthe
lemonjuiceandstirwell.Pourintoalarge,shallowdish,skimoffthefoamandsetaside,uncovered,foratleast6hoursorovernighttoletthesyruppenetratethefruit.
Thenextday,ladlecupsofthefruitmixtureintoaheavysaucepanorskillet.Bringtoaboiloverhighheat,stirring,untilthemixturejellsasdescribedonpage118.
Placeasprigofrosegeraniuminthebottomofeachsterilizedjar.Ladleintothejarsandrepeatwiththeremainingfruit.Processasdescribedonpage118.
3(pint)jars

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meyerlemonmarmalade
Meyerlemonsareaparticularlyfragrant,sweetvarietythatarefoundinbackyardsandfarmersmarketsontheWestCoast.Ifyoucantfindthem,useregularlemons
butsubstitutegrapefruitortangerinesforhalfoftheweightoflemons.

poundsMeyerlemons(4or5lemons)
About3cupswater
About3cupssugar

Slicethelemonsthinanddiscardtheendsandseeds.Placethelemonslicesinalargebowlandcoverwithwater.Letstandovernight.
Measurethelemonsandthesoakingwaterintoalargenonreactivepot.Addcupsugarforevery1cupoflemonsandwater.Bringtoaboilandcook,stirring,until
thesugardissolves.Removefromtheheat.
Ladlecupsofthelemonmixtureintoaheavysaucepanorskillet.Bringtoaboiloverhighheatandcook,stirring,untilthemixturejells,asdescribedonpage118.
Ladleintosterilizedjarsandrepeatwiththeremainingfruit.Processasdescribedonpage118.
3(pint)jars

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Page123

three:
miracleinashell
Itssometimesfuntospeculateabouthowtheworldwouldbedifferentgivenaslightlyalteredsetofingredients.Forexample,ifonionswerescarceandtruffleswere
plentiful,isthereanydoubtwhichwouldbesellingforhundredsofdollarsapound?Andwhatabouttheegg?Howmanylabcoatedfoodscientistswouldhaveto
laborforhowlongbeforetheycouldinventsomethingsoversatileandsouseful?Ifthewaymostfoodsworkisfascinating,theeggisnothingshortofamiracle.Eggs
canbeusedasaproteingluetobindingredientstogether,asinbattersforfrying.Theycanbeusedasemulsifiers,performingtheseeminglyimpossiblefeatofholding
waterandoilinapermanentsolution.Andtheycanbeusedasthickeners,turningwaterintosauce.
Essentially,therearethreepartstotheegg:theshell,thewhiteandtheyolk.Theshellismadeofcalcium.Itisrigidandresistanttowateryetporoustoair.Leavea
wholeeggnexttosomethingwithastrongodor(say,onionsortruffles),andafterithasbeencooked,youwillfindithasabsorbedsomeofthoseflavors(badinthe
caseofonions,goodinthecaseoftruffles).Thewhiteisalmostpureproteinsuspendedinwaterinfact,nearly90percentoftheeggwhiteiswater.Theyolkis
morecomplicated,butitisroughlyhalfwater,mixedwithpro

Page124
teinandfat(35percentfat).Thesedifferencesareanythingbutminor,aswewilldiscussmorefullylateron.
Forrightnow,letstakesomethingalittlemorebasic.Itisademonstrationoftheeggscomplexitythateventheprocessesthatseemthesimplestarefraughtwith
mystery.Takeahardboiledegg,forinstance.Onthesurface,whatcouldbesimpler:youcovertheeggwithwaterandboilit.Ah,buthowlong?Connoisseursof
hardboiledeggs(admittedly,lessthanlegion)checkthesurfaceoftheyolkaftershellingtoseewhetherithasbeenproperlycooked.Inanovercookedhardboiled
egg,theyolkwillhaveturnedagraygreencolor.Thatscausedbyachemicalreactionbetweenthetracesofironintheyolkandthetracesofsulfurinthewhite.The
longertheyreheatedtogether,thegreenertheyolkwillget.
But,youask,sincetheeggisencasedinashell,howdoyouknowwhenithascookedenough?Thatsthe$64,000question.Infact,youcantknow.Butwhatyou
candoisusescienceandatouchofingenuity.Covertheeggwithcoldwaterandbringittoaboil.Immediatelyturnofftheheatandleavetheegguntilthewaterhas
cooledenoughtoretrieveit.Whatyouredoingisusingatemperaturecurve.Pictureagraphofthetemperatureofthewater.Itwillbeabellcurvefirstitheatsup,
thenitcoolsdown.Bycookingtheeggthisway,youreminimizingthetimeitspendsattheextremetemperaturethatproducestheiron/sulfurreactionwhilemaximizing
theamountoftimeitspendsatthetemperaturethatwillfirmtheproteinsinthewhiteandyolk(above160degrees).
Theresanaddedbenefitaswell.Youknowhowwhenyouaddaneggtoboilingwater,theshellcracks?Itwonthappenifyouheattheeggsthisway.Alleggs
containanairpocket.Whentheairisheatedquickly,ashappenswhenyouthoughtlesslydumpaneggintoboilingwater,theairexpandsrapidlybecauseoftheheat
andfracturestheshell.Butrememberthataneggshellisamiraculousthing.Itshardyetporous.Heattheeggslowlyand

Page125
thatairpocketwillslowlyleakoutthroughtheshell,relievingthepressurewithoutcracking.
Amazing?Thatskidstuff.Letstalkabouthoweggsworkinsauces.Ifyouveevertriedtomakemayonnaisebyhand,youdontneedtobetoldthateggsarea
miracle.Youstartwitheggyolks,vinegarandoil,andaftersomeconcentratedwhipping,youwindupwithacreamywhitesaucethatbearslittleornoresemblanceto
anyofitsingredients.Thatstheideal,anyway.Ifyoudontknowwhatyouredoing,youremorelikelytowindupwithamess.Thatsbecausemayonnaiseisbased
onanemulsion,andthereislittleincookingthatistrickierormoretemperamental.Bydefinition,anemulsionisaparadoxasmoothcombinationoftwousually
antagonisticsubstances(kindoflikeafriendly,functioningCongress).Oilandwateristhemostcommonemulsionincooking,andyoudontgetmoreantagonisticthan
that.Inscience,whentwothingsrefusetocombine,theyaresaidtobeimmiscible.Thisdescriptiondoesnotmeanthatitisimpossibletocombinethem,butitsvery
difficult.Andoncetheyarecombined,theywilltrytoseparateagain.
Fortwoimmiscibleingredientstobeabletogetalong,somethinghastohappen.Thatsomethingcanbeeitherchemicalorphysical.Forexample,youcanmakea
simpleemulsionjustwithathoroughshaking.Thatshowyoumightmakeavinaigretteoilpluswater(well,vinegar,whichisroughly98percentwater).Combineoil
andvinegarinaglassjar,sealthelidtightandthenshakeforallyoureworth.Ifyouwatchcarefullywhileyoureshaking,youllnoticethattheoil,whichbeginsasone
singlecohesivemass,graduallybreaksupintosmallerandsmallerdrops.Prettysoon,thedropsarebarelyvisibletotheeye.Indeed,ifyoushakelongandhard
enough,youwillnolongerbeabletoseethematall.Theonlywayyoullknowtheyrethereisthatthemixturenolongerresembleseithervinegaroroilbutinsteadisa
rathercreamycombination.Oneofthesideeffectsofthesetiny

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littleoildropletsbeingcoatedwithvinegaristhatlightnolongerreadilypassesthroughthemixture.Thatswhatmakesitcreamylooking.
Thisvinaigretteisaverybasicemulsion,anditprobablywontlastmuchlongerthanthetimeittakesyoutopouritoverlettuce.Emulsionsthatareformedbythiskind
ofmechanicalactionareveryunstable.Avinaigrettepreparedinablenderwillbecreamierandlongerlasting,thanksbothtotheextremelyfinedropletsformedbythe
ferociousmixingandtotheairthathasbeenbeatenintothemixture.Butit,too,willeventuallybreakdown.Eventhoughyouvestoppedshakingorblendingthe
dressing,momentumwillkeepthedropletsofoilmoving.Andastheymove,theyinevitablybumpintoeachother,andwhentheybumpintoeachother,theystick
together.Soonerorlater,thedressingwillreturntoitsoriginalstatelikeajuniorhighpromafterafastdance,theboysononesideandthegirlsontheother.Still,
thiskindofphysicallyinducedemulsionismorecommonandmoredurablethanyoumightrealize.Forexample,milkandcreamarebothemulsions,andsoisbutter.
Homogenizationisnothingmorethanbreakingthefatinthemilkintoveryfineparticlesthataredispersedinthewaterpart.Ifyouletunhomogenizedmilksitfora
while,thefatwillcollectatthetopofthejar.Similarly,oncethefatinbuttermelts,thewaterquicklyseparatesout.Thechurningprocessemulsifiedit.Gentlypouroff
theclearfat,leavingthemilkysolidsbehind,andyouhaveclarifiedbutteranincomparablyluxuriousfryingfat.
Togetbacktooursaladdressing,though,youmayhavenoticedthatifyouaddcertainotheringredientstotheoilandvinegar,themixturecomestogethermoreeasily
andalsolastslonger.Theseingredientsarecalledemulsifiers.Probablythesimplestoneculinarilyatleastispreparedmustard.Addatablespoonofmustardto
thatvinaigrette,andyoullnoticeacoupleofthings.First,thedressingwillcomeoutcreamierandsmootherthanasimplevinaigrette.Second,itwilllastlonger.Rather
thanhaving

Page127
thosedropletsofoilsimplydispersedinthewaterandgraduallycomingbacktogether,themustardsurroundstheoildropletswithaverythinfilm.Thedispersedoil
dropsmaycollide,buttheirmustardjacketskeepthemfromhookingbackupsoreadily.Ratherthanemulsifiersbringingdifferingthingstogether,whichwouldseemto
betheobviousthingtheydo,theyareactuallyseparators,keepingsimilarthingsapart.
Probablythemostusefulemulsifierculinarilyistheeggyolk.Itisalsooneofthemostinteresting.Mostsubstancesonthisplanetcanbecharacterizedasbeingeither
attractedtowater(hydrophilic)orrepelledbyit(hydrophobic).Thingsthatareattractedtowaterarerepelledbyoilandviceversa.Butthereisalsoastrangethird
classofsubstancesthatareattractedtobothoilandwater.Withtheseemulsifiers,oneendofthemoleculeactuallylikeswater,whiletheotherendhatesit.Sowhen
youbeattogetheroil,waterandoneoftheseemulsifiers,somethingveryinterestinghappens:yougetanemulsionthatwillbeverydifficulttoseparate.Notonlydoes
theemulsifiercoatthedroplets,itlocksthemintoakindofnetwork.Inthecaseofeggyolks,theprimaryemulsifierislecithin,whichisoneofthefatsintheyolk.There
arealsootheremulsifyingfats(includingcholesterol)andsomeminorconstituentsaswell.
Whilethediscussionofjusthowaneggyolkemulsifiesisfascinatingtoscientists,theonlyimportantthingtocooksisthatitdoes.Ofthat,thereisnoquestion
thoughitmayhardlyseemthatwaywhenyoutryityourself.Infact,weknowquiteabitabouteggyolksandemulsions,andwhilethatknowledgemaynevermakethe
processofwhippingupamayonnaiseeasy,itcanhelpyoualong.Forexample,weknowthatitisimportanttostartwithalltheingredientsatroomtemperaturethis
lessensthesurfacetensionoftheyolksandtheoilandmakesiteasiertomixtheingredientstogetherthoroughly.Oddly,eggyolksthathavebeenfrozenanddefrosted
areactuallybetterformakingmayon

Page128
naisethanfreshinthefreezinganddefrosting,theylosesomewater.Measurealltheingredientsandsetthemaside.Theidealproportionofoiltoyolkisbetween65
and75percent.Thatworksouttoroughlyto1cupoilpereggyolk.Uselessoilthanthat,andyoullhaveaverystableemulsion,butitwillflowmorelikealiquid
thanasauce.Usetoomuchmorethanthat,andyouwillhaveaverythicksauce,butitwillbehighlyunstablelookatitwrong,anditwillseparatebackintooiland
yolk.Therestoolittleemulsifiertoholdthatamountofoil(thoughinalaboratorysetting,itispossibletomakemayonnaisethatis93percentoil).Ontheotherhand,a
greaterproportionofeggyolksdoesnotnecessarilymeanamayonnaisethatiseithereasiertoformormorestable.Youneedonlyenoughtoformathinlayeraround
eachdropletofoil.Beyondthat,thereisnogain.Makesureyouareworkingwiththerightsizebowltoo.Ifyoutrytomakemayonnaiseintoobigabowl,theeggyolk
willbespreadtoothintobegintheemulsion.
Beforeyoubeginaddingtheoil,beattheeggyolks,alittlebitofthevinegarandanydryingredients(suchaspreparedmustard)toasmooth,heavypaste.Thenbegin
addingtheoilinaverythinstream.Thestabilityofthemayonnaiseisaffectedbythesizeofthedropletsofoilthatareaddedtoit.Waituntilyouvealreadyformedan
emulsionbeforeaddingmostofthevinegarandanyotherflavorings.Ifyouaddtoomuchvinegarbeforeyouaddtheoil,theoilwillbesuspendedinbiggerdroplets.
Themayonnaisemaycometogetheralittlemoreeasily,butitwontbeasstable.Itsbettertostartoutwithfinerdroplets.Saltandseasoningsincreasethestabilityof
themayonnaise,andforreasonsbothculinaryandchemical,yourebetteroffdissolvingthesaltinthevinegarbeforeaddingit(itdispersesbetterthroughoutthe
mayonnaisethatway,anditalsoincreasesthestability).
Tomakemayonnaisemosteasily,cheat.Startwithalittlebitofpreparedmayonnaise,andtheemulsionwillformlikeasnap.Foralittleclosertoscratchmethod,
useablenderorfoodproc

Page129
essor.Aslongastheoilisaddedslowly,theviolentbeatingofthesemachinesisalmostguaranteedtoturnoutamayonnaisethatisthickandstableand,evenbetter,is
accomplishedwithoutthenecessityofslowlyaddingoilwithonehandwhilewhiskingmadlywiththeother.Thiswasoneofthebigoriginalsellingpointsofthefood
processorthefeedtubeplungerhasthattinyholeinthebottomtoallowoiltobeaddedinaverythinthread.
Onceyouvemasteredmayonnaise,yourereadyforsomethingmorecomplicated.Hotemulsifiedsaucessuchashollandaisearemadejustlikecoldemulsifications
exceptthatboththeeggyolksandthefat(butter,usually)areheatedbeforebeingcombined.Thisisnosmallchange.Whilemayonnaiseisbasedontheeggyolks
abilitytoemulsify,warmsaucesusethatplusanothertwist,onescientistscalldenaturing.Eggyolksarehighinprotein.Theseproteinscomeinlittleballsoftightly
woundstrands.Beatingtheeggyolksasyoudoinmayonnaisepartiallyrelaxesthesestrands,butwhenyouheatthemwhileyourebeatingthem,theyreallyunfold.
Whenalloftheselittlestringsofproteinarefullyextended,theybegintobumpintoeachotherandlinkup.Whentheylinkup,theyformakindofsoftnetworkthatis
roughlysimilartowhatthestarchlinkagesforminawhitesauce.Thenetworktrapsthemoistureandthefat,whiletheemulsifyingpropertiesoftheyolkhelptohold
everythinginplace.
Hollandaiseisamongthemostfearedofallsauces.Thatsbecausethereisaverynarrowrangeoftemperaturebetweenasuccessfulsauceandacompleteflop.Toget
theeggproteinstothepointthattheyhavecompletelyunfolded,theymustbeheatedtoatemperatureof160to165degrees.Butcookthemmuchfurtheronlyto
180degrees,infactandthoselinkagesbecometoopronounced.Thatsapolitewayofsayingtheeggshavecurdledintoclumpsandyouvegotscrambledeggs.
But,thoughitsoundsdifficult,onceyouunderstandthetemperatures,hollandaiseisntreallyallthathard.Tomakeit,beat

Page130
theeggyolkstobreakthemup.Beatinthevinegarandthenwarmeverythinginaheavysaucepanovermediumlowheat,whiskingconstantly.(Somerecipes
recommenddoingthisinadoubleboiler,butthatcanactuallyincreasethechancesofcurdlingbecausetheheatissolow,itwilltaketheyolksalongtimeto
thicken,andinattentionisalmostinevitable.)Graduallyyouwillseetheyolksthickenandchangecolortoakindofcreamyyellowastheyincorporatemoreandmore
air.Whentheyolkshavethickenedtothepointthatyoucanjustcatchaglimpseofthebottomofthepanafterawhiskstroke,theyareattherighttemperature.(The
Italiandessertsaucezabaglioneismadebyheatingandbeatingyolks,sugarandwinetojustbeyondthispoint,whentheyolksarealittlemorepuffedandalittlelighter
incolor.)Whentheyolkshavereachedtherighttemperature,itstimetostartaddingbutter.Professionalsusemeltedbutter,addingitadropatatimeatfirstandthen
graduallyescalatingtoathinstream(somechefsalsopreferclarifiedbutter,whichtheysayproducesathickersauce).Butforbeginners,itseasiesttostartbyadding
thebuttercold,inteaspoonsizedbits.Thismoderatestheheatoftheeggyolksandreducesthechancesoftheircurdling(youcanmakesupercreamyscrambledeggs
byusingthesametechniquejustusemoreeggsthanbutter,ratherthantheotherwayaround,anddeliberatelyovercookthem).Addroughlyaquarterofthebutter
thisway,andyouwillhaveastableemulsion.Thenyoucanaddthemeltedbutterinastreamwithsomeassurancethatitwillnotbreak.Inahollandaise,allowbetween
andcupmeltedbutterforeveryeggyolk.
Asyouveseen,itisbutashortskipfromhollandaisetoscrambledeggs.Anditisonlyahopfromtheretopuddings.Theprinciplesarenearlythesame.Themajor
differenceisthatpuddings(andtheircousins,sweetorsavorymousses)arenotstirredwhiletheyarebeingcooked.Thisallowstheproteinstrandstohookupmore
tightlyandresultsinafirmeremulsion.Themostimportant

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thingsarethesame:theeggsmustbeheatedslowlyandgently,andtheycannotbeallowedtoovercook.Infact,youcanthinkofcustardsasextremelythickegg
basedsaucesasclosekintohollandaiseandevenmayonnaise.Inthecaseofcustards,theeggproteinsaredenaturedbyheat.Asthetightlycoiledstrandsrelax,
theylinkup.Astheylinkup,theyformanetworkthattrapsanyliquidpresentandholdsitinplace.
Justanyliquidwontdo,though.Ifyoutrytomakeacustardwithwaterinsteadofmilk,nomatterwhatyoudotoit,youllendupwithfloatingscrambledeggs.Itsthe
chemicalsaltsinthemilkthatallowthecustardtofirmup.Otheringredientsinfluencewhatkindofcustardyouwindupwithtoo.Bythemselves,eggproteinscookat
between140and160degrees.(Becausetheycontaindifferentproteins,whitesarecookedfirmatlowertemperaturesthanyolks,afacteasilydemonstratedbysunny
sideupeggs.)Addingsugartothecustardraisesthetemperatureatwhichtheeggproteinscoagulate.Ontheotherhand,ifyouaddanacidtothecustardlemon
juice,forexamplethattemperatureislowered.
Howyoureachtheappropriatecookingtemperaturemakesabigdifference.Slowheatingallowseggproteinstorelaxslowlyandcompletely.Iftheyarecookedtoo
quicklyorifthetemperatureoftheeggproteinsgetsabove180degrees,theylinkupsotightlythattheygatherinclumpswhatwecallcurdling.Forthisreason,
bakedcustardsareusuallycookedinwaterbathsthetemperatureofthewater(atthemost,212degrees)ismuchmoremoderatethananoventemperaturewould
everbe.Thedifferencemadebytemperaturecanbequiteastonishing.At185degrees,eggproteinscoagulate600timesfasterthantheydoatjust10degreescooler.
Atthesametime,cookingthecustardatalowertemperatureforalongertimemakesiteasiertoavoidcurdling.Anotherfactorthataffectsthetemperatureatwhich
thecustardsetsistheamountofeggpresent.Thehigherthepercentageofprotein,thelowerthetemperatureatwhichthecus

Page132
tardfirms.Becauseofthedangerofcurdling,custardsareusuallyremovedfromtheovenbeforethecentersarecompletelysettheheatretainedinthecookingdish
andinthecustarditselfissufficienttofinishthejob.
Howthecustardistreatedwhileitiscookingmakesadifferencetoo.Custardsthatarebakedsetmorefirmlythancustardsthatarestirredandcookedonthestove.
Stirringdisruptstheformationoftheproteinnetwork,makingamuchsofter,evenflowingtexture.Ingeneral,custardsarebakedcustardsaucesarestirred.
Sometimesstarchessuchasflourorcornstarchareaddedtocustardstogiveafirmer,morestableset.Thisismostcommonlydoneinpuddingsandpiefillings.The
starchisusuallycookedwiththeliquid(creamormilkoracombinationofthetwo)tosoftenitcompletely,andthenthatcombinationisbeatenintotheeggyolksa
bitatatimetodiscouragecurdling.Thewholeisthenfinished,eitheronthestoveorintheoven.Itisessentialthatthecustardbecookedthoroughlywhenthisisdone.
Theeggyolkcontainsanenzymethatcandissolvesomeofthestarch,weakeningthecustardandmakingitrunnyeggsmustbecookedtoatleast185degreestokill
theenzyme.Forthatreason,custardsfortifiedwithstarchusuallycontainmoresugaraswell,toraisethetemperatureatwhichtheeggscurdle.Afterall,sometimes
evenmiraclesneedalittlehelp.

Page133

coldemulsionsauces
Thesimplestemulsionsauceisavinaigrette.Combinecupoliveoilandabitmorethanatablespoonoflemonjuiceinajar.Addabitofsaltandmaybesome
mincedgarlic.Putalidonthejarandshakeitashardasyoucan.

Ifyouwantyourvinaigrettetolastlonger,addsomepreparedmustardbeforeyoushakeit.Themustardwillhelppreventtheoilandlemonjuicefromseparating.

Tomakeapermanentemulsion,workinaneggyolk.Thisiscalledmayonnaise.

Whenmakingmayonnaise,besurealloftheingredientsareatroomtemperature.

Anyoilwillworkinamayonnaise,butbeawarethatitsflavorwillbeverynoticeable.Ifusingonewithastrongflavor,suchasoliveoil,itsbesttomixitwithsome
plainvegetableoil.

A2eggmayonnaiseisaboutthesmallestbatchthatispracticaltomakebyhand.Thatwilltakeabout1tocupsoiland2to3tablespoonsofeithervinegaror
lemonjuice.Youcanalsoaddmustardandsalttotaste.

Ifyouremakingamayonnaisethatwillbeeatensoon,youcanmaketheprocesseasierbyaddingasmuchashalfoftheacidtothebeateneggyolksbeforeyou
beginaddingtheoil,thenaddtheremainderwhenthesauceisfinished.Thiswillformanemulsionmoreeasily,butitwontlastaslong.

Addingabitofpreparedmustardtotheeggyolksformayonnaisewillhelptheemulsionformmoreeasily.

Tomakebeatingtheoilintoamayonnaiseeasier,formadampteatowelintoaringorcollarandrestthemixingbowlinthecenter.Thatway,thebowlwillremain
steadywhileyourewhiskingwithonehandandaddingoilwiththeother.

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Ifyourmayonnaiseseparates,makeanewemulsionbybeatingafresheggyolkinacleanbowl,andthengraduallyaddthebrokenmayonnaisetothat.

Mayonnaiseisveryeasytomakewithafoodprocessororablender,butitstexturewillbefluffierthanonemadebyhandbecauseofalltheairthatisbeatenintoit.

Neverheatmayonnaise,oritwillseparate.

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celerysaladwithwalnutsandbluecheese
Thisdressingisagoodexampleofasimplevinaigrette.Iveexperimentedwithdifferentsizesofceleryslicesandfoundinterestingresults.Thethickertheslice,the
moredominanttheceleryis.Thethinnertheslice,themoreitblendsintothebackground.Servethiseitherasanappetizersaladorasacheesecourseinabigmeal.

teaspoonmincedshallots
tablespoonsherryvinegar
cupwalnuts
bunchcelery,bottomsandleafytopstrimmed
cupoliveoil
cupcrumbledbluecheese(about2ounces)
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

Combinetheshallotsandvinegarinasmallliddedjarandsetaside.
Toastthewalnutsonabakingsheetina350degreeovenorinasmallskilletovermediumheat,stirringonceortwice,untilfragrant.Becarefulnottoscorchthem.
Removethemfromtheheatandsetaside.
Slicetheceleryonabias,makingexaggeratedVshapedpieces.Placetheceleryinalargeservingbowl.
Addtheoiltotheshallotsandvinegarandshakewelluntilthoroughlymixed.(Donotaddsaltandpepperyetmanybluecheesesareverysalty.)
Coarselychopthewalnutsandaddthemtothecelery.Pouronehalftotwothirdsofthedressingoverthesaladandtosstocoatwell.Addmoredressingasneeded
thesaladshouldbemoistened,butthereshouldntbeanyextradressinginthebottomofthebowl.Addthecheeseandtosslightlytocombine.Tasteandaddsalt,if
needed,andpeppertotaste.Serveatroomtemperature.
6servings

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greengoddesssalad
Tomymind,thisisthequeenofmayonnaisebaseddressings.DevelopedbyVictorHirtzleratSanFranciscosPalaceHotelinthe1920s,itmakesanelegantfirst
course.

1
4
2
1
2
2
2
2
1

cupsmayonnaise
anchovyfillets
greenonions,greenpartsonly
tablespoonschoppedfreshparsley
tablespoonschoppedfreshtarragon
tablespoonsmincedfreshchives
tablespoonstarragonvinegar
avocados
poundpeeled,deveinedshrimp(about1poundsinshell)
Salt
poundasparagus
cupwater

Combinethemayonnaise,anchovies,greenonions,parsley,tarragon,chivesandvinegarinafoodprocessororablenderandprocesstoaroughpuree.Orgrindwith
amortarandpestle.Setaside.
Cuttheavocadosawayfromthepitinthicklengthwisewedges.Peelthemandcutthemintolargecubes.
Cooktheshrimpinboilingsaltedwaterjustuntilfirm,3to4minutes.Drain.Trimthewoodybasesoftheasparagus.Iftheyarebiggeraroundthanapencil,peelthe
endsofthestalks.Laythespearsinabroadpan,addthe1cupwater,coverandbringrapidlytoaboil.Cookoverhighheat,shakingthepanoccasionallytoturnthe
asparagus,untilthespearsarebrightgreenandbeginningtosoften,about4minutes.Drainandcutinto2inchsections.
Combinetheavocados,shrimpandasparagusinalargebowl.Addhalfofthemayonnaiseandtossgentlytocoat.Addjustenoughoftheremainingmayonnaiseto
looselybindtheingredients.
Moundlightlyon6chilledplatesandserve.
6servings

Page137
smokedtunasaladintomatoes
Heresanothercomposedsalad,thisoneforsummer.Saltingtheinsideofthetomatoesnotonlyseasonsthembutdrawsoutmoisture,concentratingtheflavor.Ifyou
cantfindsmokedtuna,substitutehotsmokedsalmonthekindthatcutsintochunksratherthanthinslices.

4
1
1
1
1
5
2
1
3
4

largetomatoes
Salt
poundthingreenbeans,stemendstrimmed
tablespoonextravirginoliveoil
teaspoonthinlyslicedfreshbasilleaves
poundsmokedtuna,in1or2thickslices(seeabove)
tablespoonsmayonnaise
tablespoonscapers,plussomejuice(totaste)
tablespoonfreshlemonjuice
tablespoonsdicedcelery
Freshlygroundblackpepper
anchovyfillets

Sliceoffthetopquarterofeachtomatoand,usingamelonballer,removeasmuchoftheinsidesaspossiblewithoutbreakingtheskin.(Reservethetopsandinsides
foranotheruse,ifdesired.)Salttheinsideofthetomatoeslightlyandturnthemupsidedownonaplattertodrain.
Inalargepotofrapidlyboilingsaltedwater,cookthebeansuntiltheyarebrightgreen,5to7minutes,dependingonthefreshness.Drainandchillinanicewaterbath
tostopthecookingandsetthecolor.Drainagainandpatdrywithpapertowels.Tosslightlywiththeoilandbasilinamediumbowlsetaside.
Cutthetunalengthwiseintoinchthickstrips,thencrosswiseintoinchstrips.

Page138
Combinethemayonnaise,capersandjuice,lemonjuiceandceleryinabowl.Stirtomixwell.Foldthetunagentlyintothemayonnaise.Becarefulnottobreakupthe
fish.Seasontotastewithsaltandpepper.
Lightlyseasontheinsidesofthetomatoeswithsaltandpepper.Spoononequarterofthetunafillingintoeachtomato.Place1anchovyfilletontopofeachtomato.Put
thetomatoesinthecenterofindividualsaladplatesorarrangeonaplatter.
Lightlyseasonthebeanswithsalt,tossingwell.(Saltingthemearlierwouldchangethecolor.)Arrangethebeansaroundthetomatoesandserve.
4servings

Page139

hotemulsionsaucesandcookedegges
Begintomakeahotemulsionsauce,suchashollandaise,bybeatingtheyolksandtheacidoverlowheatuntiltheyolksstarttofoamandswell.Youshouldbeable
toseethebottomofthepanbetweenstrokes.

Tomakethesaucetheeasiestway,startbyaddingpatsofcoldbutter,whiskingthemintotheeggstotempertheheatandtoformtheemulsion.Then,ifyouwish,
youcanfinishthesaucewithmeltedbutter,addingitinathinstreamandwhiskingconstantly.Allowabout3tablespoonsbutterpereggyolk.

Thereisnofixingabrokenhotemulsionsauce.Keepaconstanteyeonthetemperatureofthepan.Iftheresonethingthatwillkillyoursauce,itsovercookingthe
eggs.

Youcanholdahothollandaiseorotheremulsionsaucefor30to45minutesbeforeserving,butyouvegottobecareful.Placethesaucepaninabainmarie,or
waterbatharoastingpanorotherlargepanthatisfilledwithhot,butnotboiling,water.

Ifahotemulsionsauceiskeptwarmfortoolongbeforebeingused,littlepoolsofbutterappearonthesurface.Whathasprobablyhappenedisthattoomuchofthe
liquidhasevaporatedfromtheemulsion.Beatinginacoupleoftablespoonsofhotwatershouldfixthis.

Onceyouvemasteredabasichollandaise,youcanvarytheflavordramaticallybyusinganinfusionofwineorvinegarreducedwithotherflavorings,suchasfresh
ordriedherbs,fortheacidportion.Abarnaiseisahollandaiseflavoredwithtarragon.

Eggsmustbecookedgently.Whenbakingcustardsorsimilareggbaseddishes,alwaysuseawaterbath.Placethecustardcupsinabakingpan,placethebaking
paninthepreheatedovenandthenaddboilingwatertocomehalfwayupthesidesofthecustardcups.Thismoderatesthetemperatureofthecustardandkeepsthe
eggsfromcookingtooquickly.

Page140
Wheneggsareovercooked,theybegintosqueezeoutanymoisturetheyhold.Thisiswhyyousometimesfinddropsofliquidontopofcustards.

Tomakethebestscrambledeggs,heattheeggswithsomeofthebutteroverlowheat.Whentheeggsstarttothicken,beatinmorecoldbutter.Scrambledeggs
shouldbesoftbutfirmnotrunny,butcertainlynotdry.

Evenfriedeggsshouldbecookedgently.Usemediumheatratherthanhightokeepthemfromformingthattough,brown,frizzledbottom.

Page141
scrambledeggswithmorelsandasparagus
Thecombinationofmorelsandasparagusisquintessentiallyspringlike.Itsespeciallynicethattheytastesogoodtogether.Thisisoneofmyfavoritewaysof
combiningthem.Squeezealloftheexcessmoistureoutofthemorelsaftersoaking,ortheymayturntheeggsanunappetizingshadeofbrown.

1
12
4
1

ouncedriedmorels
poundasparagus
largeeggs
tablespoons(stick)butter,cutinto3or4cubes
tablespoonmincedfreshchives
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

Coverthemorelswithhotwaterandsetthemasideuntilsoftened,about10minutes.
Meanwhile,trimthewoodybasesfromtheasparagus.Cutoffthetipsandreserve.Slicetheasparagusstalkscrosswiseverythin.
Whenthemorelshavesoftened,drainthemthoroughly.Slicethecapslengthwiseandsqueezeoutanyexcessmoisture.
Stirtogethertheeggs,morelsandasparagustipsandslicesinalargemixingbowl.
Pourtheeggmixtureand1tablespoonofthebutterintoalargeskilletandplaceovermediumheat.Cook,stirringcontinuously,untiltheeggsjustbegintosetonthe
bottom.Addtheremaining3tablespoonsbutter,reducetheheattomediumlowandcook,stirringconstantlyandscrapingupanyseteggfromthebottomofthepan,
untiltheeggshaveformedwet,shiny,fairlyloosecurdsandyoucanseethepanbottomwhenyoustir.Removethepanfromtheheat,addthechivesandseasonto
tastewithsaltandpepper.Continuestirringuntiltheeggsarecompletelyset.Caution:theeggsgofromtoowettotoodryextremelyquicklyitisimportantthatthey
arefirmlysetbutremaincreamy.Serveimmediately.
4to6servings

Page142
troutmousse
Custardsandmoussesarentalwayssweetthisoneissavorybuttheprocessismuchthesame.Theeggsandtroutformanemulsionwhenpureedwiththehalf
andhalf,whichsetstoafirm,creamyconsistencywhenthecustardisbaked.ThisisbasedonatechniqueIlearnedfromcookingteacherMadeleineKamman.Serve
warmorcold,asanappetizerorlightlunch,alongwithafrisesalad.

1
1
1

8
1

poundboned,skinnedtroutfillets
largeegg,separated
largeeggwhite
cuphalfandhalf
tablespoons(1stick)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,plusmoreforgreasingtheramekins
teaspoonssalt
Freshlygroundblackpepper
teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg
cupsheavy(whipping)cream,wellchilled

Inafoodprocessor,pureethefish,eggandeggwhitewiththehalfandhalfuntilsmooth.Foraperfectlysmoothmousse,pushthepureethroughafinestrainer.Cover
thepureetightlyandrefrigerateforatleast2hours,untilthoroughlychilled.
Combinethebutter,salt,peppertotasteandnutmeginthefoodprocessorandpureefor15seconds.Graduallyaddthefishpuree,processingtoahomogeneous
consistency.Withthemachinerunning,addcupsofthecreamthroughthefeedtube.Assoonasallthecreamhasbeenabsorbed,stoptheprocessor.
Transferthemixturetoabowlplacedinalargerbowlofice.Withalargerubberspatula,foldintheremainingcupcream.Covertightlyandrefrigerateforatleast1
houroruntilreadytouse.(Themoussecanberefrigeratedforaslongas24hours.)

Page143
Preheattheovento325degrees.Heavilybutter8glassorceramiccupramekins.
Packthemousseintotheramekinsandplaceinalargebakingpan.
Placethebakingpanonalowerovenshelfandaddenoughveryhotwatertothedishtocomehalfwayupthesidesoftheramekins.Layasheetofparchmentpaperor
foiloverthetopandbakeuntilaskewerinsertedinthecenterofthemoussecomesoutcleanandfeelshotwhentouchedtoyourbottomlip,15to17minutes.Let
coolslightlyandservewarm,orletcooltoroomtemperature.
Toserve,carefullyrunthebladeofathinknifearoundtheoutsideofeachmousse,placeaplateoverthetopandinvertwithaquick,forcefulthrusttounmoldthe
mousse.Serve.
8servings

Page144
chocolatepotsdecrme
Whentheeggsarecookedwiththemilkandcreaminthisrecipe,theyformaproteinmatrixthatholdseverythinginplace.Incookingterminology,thatsknownasa
pudding,andthisoneisthemostelegantchocolatepuddingyoucanimagine.Althoughtherearemanydifferentwaystomakepotsdecrme,someofthemincredibly
complex,Ifoundthatthistechnique,adaptedfromRichardSaxsClassicHomeDesserts,istheeasiestandmosthappilygivesthebestresults.

4
1
1
2
2

ouncesbittersweetorsemisweetchocolate,finelychopped
cupheavy(whipping)cream
cupmilk
largeeggs
largeeggyolks
cupsugar
Lightlysweetenedwhippedcreamforserving(optional)

Preheattheovento300degrees.
Combinethechocolate,creamandmilkinasmallsaucepanoverlowheatandbringtojustbelowtheboilingpoint,stirringoccasionally.Whensteamappearsatthe
edgesofthepan,removeitfromtheheatandwhiskuntilsmooth.
Whilethechocolatemixtureisheating,lightlybeattheeggs,eggyolksandsugarinamediummixingbowl.Donotletthemixturegetfoamy.
Whiskinggently,dribblecupofthehotmilkmixtureintotheeggs.Whiskuntilsmooth.Graduallyaddtheremaininghotmilk,whiskingconstantly.Pourthemixture
throughastrainerintoapitcheror1quartmeasuringcup.
Dividethemixtureequallyamong8(cup)ramekinsitshouldfillthemonlytwothirdstothreequartersfull.Placetheramekinsinabakingpanandplacethepanon
themiddlerackoftheoven.Fillthe

Page145
panwithenoughveryhotwatertocomehalfwayupthesidesoftheramekins.Coverlooselywithasheetoffoilorabakingsheetandbakeuntiltheedgesofthe
custardaresetbutthecenterstilltrembleswhenshaken,30to35minutes.Removetheramekinsfromthebakingpanandsetasidetocool.
Covertheramekinstightlywithplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilchilled.Serve,passingwhippedcream,ifdesired.
8servings

Page146
lemonspongepudding
Thisisanoldfashioneddessertthatismadeinawaythatsreallyquiteodd.Youmixaveryliquidbatter,thenduringbaking,akindoflightcakefloatstothetopanda
custardformsbelow.Nomatterhowtemptedyoumightbe,donttrythiswithoutthewaterbath.Directheatwouldscrambletheeggs.

1
3
2
6
1
1

tablespoonsallpurposeflour
cupsugar
teaspoonsalt
cupmilk
largeeggs,separated
tablespoonsgratedlemonzest
tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice
tablespoonbutter,melted
largeeggwhite

Preheattheovento350degrees.Butter1(3cup)moldor6(cup)ramekins.
Stirtogethertheflour,sugarandsaltinasmallbowl.
Stirtogetherthemilk,eggyolks,lemonzestandlemonjuiceinalargebowl.Addthedryingredientstothewetingredientsandstirtogethertoformasmooth,liquid
batter.Stirinthemeltedbutter.
Inamediumbowl,beattheeggwhitesuntilstiffbutnotdry.Gentlybutthoroughlyfoldtheeggwhitesintothebatter.
Pourthebatterintothebutteredmoldorramekins.Placeinalargebakingpan,placeintheovenandadd1inchofhotwatertothebakingpan.Bakeuntilthetopis
setandwellbrowned,about40minutesforthemoldor20minutesfortheramekins.Servehotoratroomtemperature.
6servings

Page147
lemoncurdtart
Thisistheidealwinterfillingforatart.Itsrich,butteryandquitetart,soyoudontwanttousetoomuchtherecipemakesjustenoughtospreadathinlayeracross
thebottomofthepastry.Thesugarandthelemonjuiceallowtheeggstocookatahighertemperaturethannormalwithoutformingcurds.Youcanalsoservethe
lemoncurdwithfreshhotbiscuitsforbreakfast.

2
2

largeeggs
largeeggyolks
cupsugar
teaspoonsalt
Gratedzestof1lemon
cupfreshlemonjuice
tablespoons(stick)unsaltedbutter,chilledandcutintopieces
ShortPastryCrust(page296),bakedandcooled

Beattheeggs,yolks,sugarandsaltinasmallsaucepanuntilsmoothandlightcolored.Addthelemonzest,lemonjuiceandbutterandcookovermediumheat,stirring
constantly,untilthebuttermelts,about5minutes.Reducetheheattomediumlowandcontinuecooking,stirring,forabout5minutes,untilthecurdissmoothandthick
enoughtocoatthebackofaspoonthereshouldbeadefinitetrackwhenyoudragyourfingeracrossthespoon.
Pourthecurdthroughafinestrainerintoachilledbowl.(Youwillhaveabout1cupscurd.)Covertightlywithplasticwrap,pressingitflatagainstthesurfaceofthe
curdtopreventtheformationofaskin,andrefrigerateuntilchilled.
Spoonthelemoncurdintothecrustandspreaditinathin,smoothlayer.Cutintowedgesandserve.
6servings

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Thispageleftintentionallyblank

Page149

four:
fromapebbletoapillow
Itsoneofthemysteriesofcooking:howsomeofthesoftest,mostluxuriousfoodsweeatactuallystartoutastinylittleseeds,hardasrocks.Whetheritsthesmooth
richnessofawhitesaucemadewithflourandmilk,thecreamymiracleofrisotto,thevoluptuousnessofcookedbeansorthesilkenspringinessoffreshpasta,noalien,
freshlylandedonearthandtastingthesefoodsforthefirsttime,wouldeverguessthattheroughmaterialstheycomefromwheatkernelsanddriedbeanscould
easilybreakatooth.Thisisthemagicofstarch:thetoughlittlegranulesturnsoftwiththeadditionofabitofwaterorotherliquidandalotofheat.Whetheryoure
talkingaboutthefinestflourorthefattestdriedfavabean,thatsexactlywhathappens.
Starches,substancesthatarefoundincertaintypesofplantsmostlyintheseedsandrootsaretheplantsenergystores.Thestarchitselfisformedintiny
granules.Whateverthesourceofthestarch,eachgranuleconsistsofconcentriclayersoftwosubstances,amyloseandamylopectin,thatareheldtogetherbychemical
bonds(thisisanoversimplification,butitiscloseenoughtoillustratethepoint).Amyloseissolubleitwillabsorbandbeabsorbedbywater.Amylopectinismore
resistant.Asstarchgranulesareheatedinliquid,partsoftheamyloselayer

Page150
breakoffandgointosolutionintheliquid.Theliquidthenentersthegapsleftbehind,penetratingfartherintothestarchgranule,swellingandsofteningit.Asthe
amyloseswellsandsoftens,someoftheamylopectinbreaksawaytoo,allowingthewatertopenetrateevenfarther.Asthegranuleprogressivelyabsorbsmoreliquid,
moreamyloseisfreedtoabsorbliquidandmoreamylopectinbreaksaway.Thisprocessiscalledgelatinization,anditoccurseverytimewaterandstarchareheated
together.Thoughthecookingofstarchembracesastaggeringvarietyofforms,gelatinizationisthecoreprincipleatwork.
Itsinsaucemaking,though,thattheprocessismostobvious.Takesomethingascommonplaceasturkeygravy.Thefirststepinmakingaflourthickenedgravyisto
heatthestarchwithsomefat,eitherbutterorturkeydrippingsscientifically,atleast,itmakesnodifference.Thisstepbreaksupanyclumpsofflourandincorporates
itintoasmoothpaste.Thenthestockisslowlyadded.Atfirst,youcanstillseetheindividualflourgranulesintheliquid.Gradually,asthesauceisheated,thegranules
becomefuzzier.Prettysoon,youcantmakethemoutatall.Atthispoint,thestarchisgelatinized.Yetyoudidntaddnearlyenoughflourtoaccountforthewaythe
liquidisthickening.Withsaucemaking,theresalittlesomethingextragoingonaswell.Asthestarchgranulesabsorbliquid,swellandsoften,theratioofliquidtosolid
isreduced.Inaddition,allofthoseamyloseandamylopectinbitsthatarenowfloatingloosebegintobumpintoeachother.Whentheybump,theybond,formingnew
connections,andwhenthishappens,theymakeasoftnetworkthattrapsliquidinside.Sonotonlydoesthestarchthickenbyreducingtheamountoffreeliquid,it
alsofixesinplacetheliquidthatisstillfree,formingagel.
Youcanseethisprocesshappening.First,andmostobviously,youllseetheliquidthickenandflowmoreslowly.Youllalsoseethecoloror,moreaccurately,the
qualityofthecolorchange.Lightshinesveryclearlythroughwaterandnotatallthroughsolids.Asthesoliddispersesintheliquid,thesaucewill

Page151
becomecloudier,tothepointthatyouwillnolongerbeabletoseethroughitatall.Butthen,whenitisfinished,therewillbearemarkablechangethesaucewill
haveturnedshinyandinsomecaseseventranslucent,sincethestarchhassoftenedtothepointthatitisnolongerblockinglight.Thecolorofourturkeygravyisa
cloudybeigebecauseitwasthickenedwithflour,which,inadditiontostarch,containsproteinsthatblockthelight.Carefulcooksalwaysskimthedryfilmthatappears
onthesurfaceofflourthickenedsaucesotherimpuritiescollectontop.Starchesthatdontcontainasmuchproteincornstarch,potatostarchandarrowrootare
calledpureandmakealmostclearsaucesorgravies.Theydontneedskimming.
Thisistheroughoutlineofwhathappensduringthemakingofastarchbasedsauce.Butitiswiththevariationsthatthingsgetreallyinteresting.Differentstarches
thickenindifferentwaysandatdifferenttemperatures,dependingontheratioofamylosetoamylopectin,whatothersubstancestheycontainandhowtheyarecooked.
Starchescomefromallsortsofthingsandcookindifferentways.Generally,incooking,wethinkofcornstarchandflour(wheatstarch).Theybothcomefromseeds.
Butstarchescanbefoundinmanyotherkindsofseedsandinmanyrootsaswell.Remember,starchisaplantsenergysavingsaccounteventuallyitwillbe
convertedtosugartobeusedforgrowth.Rootstarches,suchasarrowroot,tapiocaandpotato,dissolveandthickenmorequicklyandthoroughlythancerealstarches
becausetheyarehigherinamylopectin.Ontheotherhand,theyareweaker.Ifyouusearootstarch,youwillneedlessstarchandlesstimetothickenyourturkey
gravy(rootstarchescookatamuchlowertemperaturetheyarefullysoftenedwellbelowtheboilingpointofwater).Butthegravywillneverbeasthickasone
madefromacerealstarchflourorcornstarch.Moreproblematically,ifarootstarchisovercooked,itturnsstringy.Cornstarchandflourmakethethickestsauces,
andbecausetheydontfully

Page152
softenuntiljustbelowtheboilingpoint,theyarehardertoovercook(thoughcertainlynotimpossiblecornstarchinparticularlosesitsthickeningabilityifboiledtoo
long).
Whateverthekindofstarchandwhateverthefinaltemperatureatwhichitgelatinizes,thesofteningofthegranuleshappensgradually.Formoststarches,itstartsat
between135and150degrees.Theresultantswellingandthickeningoccursshortlyafter,atabout160degrees.Thesesoftgranulesaredelicate.Whenstarchesare
overcooked,theywillexplode,releasingallthewatertheyhold.Excessivestirringsimilarlycanrupturethegranulesoncetheyvesoftened.Thatiswhyitisimportant
notonlytomonitorthetemperatureofthesauceonceitsmadebuttohandleitgentlyaswell.
Thebasicstarchthickenedsauceisremarkablyflexible.AccordingtotheFrenchclassificationofsauces,ourturkeygravyistechnicallyavelout,sinceitismadewith
stock.Anystockcanbeusedinavelout,dependingonwhatthedishisgoingtobe.Oryoucanusemilk,andthenyoullhavesaucebchamel,orgoodoldAmerican
whitesauce.Varytheamountofflour,andyouwillgetdifferentthicknesses,fromlightandflowing,likeacreamsoup,tothickandpasty,likethebaseforsoufflsor
croquettes.
Sometimesweaddotherthingstostarchthickenedsauces,andthesetoocanhaveaneffect.Sugarisacommonaddition,notforturkeygravy,certainly,butforpastry
creams(usedtofillcreampuffsandclairs)andfruitpies.Sugarishydrolytic,meaningitabsorbswaterquitereadily.Ifalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbedbythesugar,it
cantbeabsorbedbythestarch.Sugaralsodelaysthestartofthesofteningofthestarchgranules,raisesthefinaltemperatureforgelatinizationanddecreasesthe
thickeningstrengthofthestarchthatswhyyouuseacomparablyhighamountofflourforsuchasoftsetinpastrycream.
Acidsuchaswine,lemonjuiceorvinegarweakensastarchbasedsaucetoo,butinadifferentway.Itbreaksdownthestarchmolecules,resultinginathinner
sauce,thoughthiseffect

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canbeminimizedbycarefullycontrollingthetemperature.Rapidheatingwithoutovercookingisthekeythelesstimetheacidhastobreakdownthestarchbefore
thesauceisthickened,thebetter.
Finally,browningastarchbeforeaddingliquidbreaksitdownandweakensitsthickeningability.ThisexplainswhyCajunroux,whichisbrownedtoadeepcoffee
colorbeforebeingaddedtogumbos,containssomuchflourtosolittlethickeningeffect.
Soimportantisthethickeningabilityofstarchthatthefoodindustryhasdevelopedspecialvarietiesthathavebeenrefinedtocreatepropertiesnotfoundinnature.
Instantpuddings,forexample,containspecialquickthickeningstarches.Otherpackagedfoodscontainstarchesthathavebeentreatedtomakethemeasiertodissolve
andtodiscourageclumping.Athome,ofcourse,youdonthavethosespecializedstarchesavailable,sohowdoyoumakethebestuseoftheonesyoudohave?
Carefulhandlingisthekey,fromstarttofinish.First,itisimportanttomakesurethatthestarchgranulesflour,cornstarch,arrowrootorwhateverarewell
dispersedintheliquidbeforeyoubeginheatingthem.Thiswilldefeattheirnaturaltendencytoclumptogetherandformlumps.Itslikeoneofthoseicebreakergames
peopleusedtoplayatparties:geteverybodymixedtogetherinitially,andtheyllstaythatwayallnight.Youcandothisbycombiningstarchandliquidinacoldwater
slurryorbymakingapastewithafat,suchasbutteroroil.Onceyouveaddedtheliquid,stirfrequentlyduringthecookingtomakesurethestarchgranulesareboth
heatedandexposedtotheliquidevenly.Whenthickeninghasstarted,reduceboththeheatandthestirring.Youdontwanttobreakthestarchcellsbyeither
overcookingorbruising.And,aboveall,neverboilastarchthickenedsauceonceitismade.
Allstarchthickenedsaucesarebasicallycolloidalsystemslikemud.Whentheyarehot,theyarewhatscientistscallasolaliquidthatcontainssolids.But
rememberthatheatismotion.Asthemixturecools,itlosesenergyandthesolidsslowdown.

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Gradually,thenetworkformedbythebitsofamyloseandamylopectinbecomesmoreandmoresolid.Toascientist,thatiscalledaphaseshift,meaningthatthesol
hasturnedintoagel.Inlayterms,ithasbecomemoresolidthanliquid.Whilethisisfascinatingtoscientists,thepracticalpointtocooksisthatsauceswhichhave
cooledaremuchthickerthanwhentheywerehot.Beforeadjustingtheconsistencyofastarchthickenedsaucebyaddingmoreliquid,besureitisatthetemperatureat
whichyouintendtoserveit.
Thoughmostcooksrarelyuseanythingotherthanflourorcornstarchtothickenasauce,theywilluseotherstarchestothickenthefillingsforfruitpiesitsnot
exactlyasauce,butwithoutsomekindofstarchthickener,thatcherrypiefillingwouldbecherrysoup.Ingeneral,thestarchesusedforpiefillingscanbedivided
betweencerealstarches(wheatandriceflour,cornstarch)androotstarches(potato,arrowroot,tapioca).Cerealstarchessetmorefirmly,meaningthatthecooledpie
slicesmorecleanly.Butbecauseofthestraybitsofproteintheycontain,theyareopaqueandmakethefruitsjuicescloudy.Rootstarchesgiveasoftersetthefilling
mayflowwhencutbuttheyarecrystalclear,givingthefruitajewellikeappearance.Rootstarchesalsocookatlowertemperaturesthancerealstarches.How
muchstarchyouusewilldependonthekindoffruityouuseandhowjuicyitis.Itwillalsodependontheamountofsugaryouuseforsweetening.Rememberthat
sugarattractswater.Themoreyouadd,themorewaterwillbedrawnoutfromthefruitandthemorestarchyouwillneedtoabsorbit.Furthermore,sugarraisesthe
temperatureatwhichthestarchesarecompletelycooked,whichcangiveyouanevensofterset.Whateverstarchyouuse,besurethepiehasatopcrustwiththissort
offilling.Withoutit,thesteamcreatedbythecookingwillescape,themoisturewontbeabsorbedevenlyandyoullwindupwithbitsandclotsofuncookedstarchin
thepie.Opentoppedpiesareusuallymadewith

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rawfruitandarejustpaintedwithjamtomakethemlookasiftheyvebeencooked.
Fascinating,youmaysay,butwhatintheworlddoesthishavetodowithriceorbeansorevenpasta,forthatmatter?Theyreallmadeprimarilyofstarch.Ofcourse,
theresmuchmoretoitthanthat,butinitssimplestoutline,thecookingofallofthesefoodscomesdowntosofteningstarchgranulesmuchlikethemakingofa
turkeygravy.Andwhileyoumaynotimmediatelyseetheconnectionbetweendriedpastaandturkeygravy,botharemadefromflourandwater.Takeacloserlookat
driedpastawhileitscooking.Ifyoupulloutapiecefromtimetotimeandcutitinhalf,youcanseethegradualsofteningofthestarchgranules.Astheysoften,they
becometranslucent,whiletheuncookedpartremainshardandwhite.Butifflourandwatercanbemadeintoasauce,howcanthesamecombinationmakepasta?Ina
word,gluten.Whenflourismoistenedandthensubjectedtomechanicalaction(Momcalleditkneading),proteinsintheflourcombinetoformlong,stringysheetsof
glutenthatholdtheflourandwatertogether.Whilewetendtothinkofpastasasbeingmadefromwheatflour(becauseofwheatflourshighproteincontent,these
doughsaretheeasiesttoform),theycanalsobemadefromawidevarietyofotherstarchesriceflour,lentilflour,evenmungbeanflour.Gnocchiisatypeofpasta
thatismadefrompotatoesandflourthemoisturefromthecookedpotatokneadedwiththeflourdevelopsthegluten.
Ingeneral,mostpastasthatwebuyaremadesimplywithstarchandwaternofat.Theyaredriedrockhardbeforebeingsold.Freshpastasaremadewithsome
kindofaddedfat,usuallyeggsoreggyolks.Evenwhendried,theyretainacertainamountofflexibilitybecausethefatpreventstheglutenstructuresfromforminghard
linkages(thisisthesamethingthathappensinapiecrust,andwelltalkmoreaboutitlater).Thedifferenceisevidentinthecookednoodles.Commerciallymadedried
pastastake

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aslongas10to12minutestosoften,whileeventhedriestfreshpastasusuallycookinmuchlessthan5.Becausetheglutenisbetterdeveloped,driedpastashavea
firmerbiteaftercooking,whilefreshpastasaresilky.Sincethestarchesinpastaarenottightlybound,carelesscookingcanbeadisaster.Noodleswillsimplyfallapart
ifovercooked.Cookingnoodlesintoolittlewatercanresultinastickymessbecauseoftheamountofamylopectinsthatleachfromthepastaduringcooking.
Riceand,yes,beansarenothingmorethanverybig,verycomplicatedcollectionsofstarchgranulestrappedinaproteinmatrixandwrappedinawaterpermeable
celluloseskin.Infact,withrice,ouroldfriendsamyloseandamylopectinareatcenterstageagain.Whiletheassortmentofricescanbebewildering,particularlyif
youvestartedshoppingforitinethnicmarkets,mostofthemfallintotwomainfamilies:longgrainricesandshortandmediumgrainrices(socalledwildricesarent
ricesatalltheyaregrasses,andtheycontainlittlestarch).Thedifferencebetweenthetwofamiliesisvital.Shortandmediumgrainriceshaveahigherpercentageof
amylopectinthanlonggrainrices,sotheytendtobesticky,whilethegrainsoflonggrainricetendtoremainseparateanddistinctaftercooking.Shortandmedium
grainricesareperfectforthingslikepuddings,risottosandsushi.Longgrainricesarebetterforpilafanditsrelatives.Becauseshortgrainricesfinishcookingata
lowertemperature,theyareverysensitivetoovercooking.Ifyouovercookthem,theswellingstarcheswillburstthroughtheouterlayer,emptyingintothecooking
liquidandthickeningit.
Infact,sometypesofcookingseemtohavebeendevelopedspecificallytotakeadvantageofthatdifference.Risotto,forexample,ismadefrommediumgrainrices,
soitisboundtobesomewhatstickyandcreamyinthefirstplace.Butbeyondthat,theliquidisaddedinincrementsandthericeisstirredconstantly,crushingthe
kernelsandreleasingasmuchamylopectinaspossi

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bleintothecookingliquid,therebythickeningitandcontributingtothelusciouscreamytexture.(Thus,asfoodwriterMattKramerhaspointedout,risottoisricethat
comeswithitsownsauce.)Theoppositeextremewouldbeanauthenticpilaf,wherethelonggrainriceisrinsedandsoakedbeforehandandiscookedwithoutstirring
tomakesureaslittlestarchescapesaspossible.Inthisdish,separateandfluffykernelsarethegoal.
Riceisservedcoldaswellashot,whichcancausesomeproblems.Whenstarchesarecooledaftertheyvebeencookedandsoftened,theysometimesbecomehard
again.Thisiscalledretrogradation,anditisthesameprocessthatcausesbreadtogostale.Essentially,allofthosestarchcomponentsthatwerefreedfromtheirhard
matrixduringcookingbegintolinkupagain.Butitisaproblemthatiseasilysolved.Slowlyrewarmingthericewillresoftenit(and,ifthestalebreadisnttoofargone,
rewarmingwillfreshenittoo).Noristhisretrogradetendencyallbadnews.Itcanalsobeabighelptocooks.Ifyouletlonggrainricecoolevenslightlybeforeserving
itorbeforestirringinotheringredients,youllfindthatitstayslightandseparatefarbetterthanifitweremixedimmediately(becausetheoutershellhassetagainand
willbetterresistbreaking).Chinesefriedriceisanextremeexample:thecookedriceisrefrigeratedovernightbeforebeingstirfriedsothekernelswillremainintactand
separateduringthebriefsecondcooking.Thesamethingistrueofsaladsmadewithriceandbeansthegrainsremainseparatebecauseofthechilling.Ontheother
hand,alwaysbesuretoaddsomeoftheseasoningtothericeorbeanswhiletheyarestillhot,whichallowsthedressingtopenetratefartherintothecenterofthe
kernelbeforethestarchesontheoutsideharden.
Thecookingofbeans,incomparison,isstraightforward.Allbeanshaveroughlysimilarchemicalmakeupsandcookinmuchthesameway.Coverthemgenerously
withwaterandcookthemoverlowheattoprovideasmooth,evensofteningofthestarch

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granules.Despitethisapparentsimplicity,though,thecookingofbeansisthesubjectofsomecontroversy.Perhapsthisisbecauseoftheiruniqueimpactonthehuman
digestivesystem.Thebuttofmanyjokes,beansinevitablycauseflatulence.Somepeoplesoaktheminthebeliefthatdoingsowillremovesomeofthegassy
compounds.Thisispointless.Thecompoundsinbeansthatcausegasarecomplexsugars,forwhichthehumanbodydoesntcreatedigestiveenzymes.Mostseeds
containsmallamountsofthesesugars,butlegumesareextremelyhighinthem.Becausetheypassthroughthestomachundigested,theycreateanuncomfortable
surprisefortheintestinaltract.Itshouldbeobvious,onceyouthinkaboutit,thatsoakingwillhavenoeffect,becausethesesugarsaretheseedsstoresofenergyfor
germinationandgrowth.Sincesoakingisalsothefirststepingerminating,itwouldntmakesensefortheseedtogiveuptheseallimportantsugarssoeasily.
Moreover,thesesugarsareonlypartofthecauseforbeansunfortunatesideeffects.Eveniftheywereremovedentirely,thefactremainsthatbeansareextremelyhigh
infibersomethingforwhichtheAmericandietisnotknownandsomethingthatalsoseemstocatchourdigestivetractsunaware.Atthemost,presoakingbeans
shortenstheircookingtimeandprovidesforamoreevensofteningofthestarchgranules(sincebeansaredriedingredients,partofthecookingprocessissimply
addingthewaterthatwaslostindrying).Ontheotherhand,soakingalsoremovesamarginalamountofnutrientsand,inthecaseofbeans,anoticeableamountof
flavor.Infact,intheculturesthatbestlovebeans,theyarerarelysoaked.
Perhapsbecauseoftheiraftereffects,perhapsbecausetheycomefromnonEuropeansources,beanshavebeenthesubjectofaseeminglyendlessassortmentofold
wivestales(remember,tomatoeswereonceheldtobepoisonous).Onecommonmythisthatbeansshouldneverbesaltedbeforecookingbecausethattoughensthe
skins.Notonlyistherenoscientificevidencefor

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this,butpracticalexperiencesaysotherwiseaswell.Actually,saltingbeforecookinghasnoeffectoncookingtimeordigestibility,andbecausethebeanabsorbssome
ofthesaltduringcooking,itisseasonedthrough,allowingyoutouselesssaltthanifitwereaddedafterward.Furthermore,manyofthesamerecipesthatclaimits
necessarytoholdbackonsaltuntilthebeansaresoftcallforcookingbeanswithsaltporkorbacon:anobviouscontradiction.Infact,commerciallycannedbeansare
usuallycookedwithsaltandwithoutsoaking.
Itisalsosaidthatcookingbeanswithcertainherbsepazote,fenugreek,asafetidaorseaweed,dependingontheculturecanhelpreducegas.This,too,isfalse
whiletheseadditionsmaytastegood,thereisnodemonstratedbenefittoeithercookingordigestion.Someclaimthatapinchofbakingsodawillhelpbeanscook
morequickly.Thisistrue,afterafashion.Becausebakingsodaisanalkaline,itwillbreakdownthecelluloseinthebeans,makingthemsoftermorequickly,butitwill
dosounevenlytheoutsidewillbecomeslimybeforetheinsideisfinishedcooking.Somepeoplebelieveyoushouldavoidaddingacidicingredients,suchastomatoes,
untilthebeansarealmostcooked.Again,thisistrue,butonlywhenextremeamountsareinvolved.Aswithallvegetables,acidslowsthesofteningofbeansbydelaying
thebreakdownofcelluloseandstarchbutitprobablydoesntdelayitenoughtomakemuchofadifferenceunlessyouretalkingaboutaddingahelluvalotof
tomatoes.Perhapssurprisingly,thewateryouuseismuchmorelikelytomakeadifference.Starchessoftenmuchmoreslowlyinthepresenceofcertainchemicalsalts.
Ifyouliveinanareawherethewaterisveryhardmeaningthatitcontainsalotofdissolvedcalciumandmagnesiumyoumayfindthatbeanstakemuchlongerto
soften.ItisthepresenceofthesecompoundsinmolassesthatallowsBostonbakedbeanstobecookedforanalmostinfiniteamountoftimebeforebreakingdown.(It
isalsothereasonthemolassesisntaddeduntilthebeansarethoroughlycooked.)

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Probablythemainpredictorofhowlongbeanswilltaketocookisnotvarietybutvintage.Theolderbeansare,thedriertheywillbeandthelongertheywilltaketo
cook.Ifyoususpectyourbeansaremorethanayearortwoold,youmightdowelltosoakthemthetimesavedwillbeworththebotherandthelossinflavor.In
general,buybeansatstoresthatcatertogroupswhoeatthemalotLatinoandIndianmarkets,especially.Wherethereisareadyaudience,theturnoverinstockis
morerapid,andyoullbeassuredofgettingfresherdriedbeans.
Oftheotherlegumes,lentilsandsplitpeasneverrequiresoaking.Theyaresosmall,theysoftenquickly,inaslittleas30minutes.Garbanzobeans(chickpeas),onthe
otherhand,almostalwaysseemtoneedtobesoakedinordertoshortenthecookingtimetoamatterofhours,ratherthandays.
Whetheryouvesoakedthemornot,alwayscookbeansandotherlegumesstartingwithcoolwatersothestarcheswillswellmoregraduallyandthoroughly.Itsalso
reallybesttocookthemintheoven,ratherthanontopofthestove,sincetheheatissteadierandmoreeasilycontrolled.
Thoughmoststarchescomefromseedsorroots,notallofthemdo.Potatoesandwintersquashesareparadoxes,withonefootintheworldofvegetablesandthe
otherinstarch.Whenitcomestotheiractualcooking,however,itisthestarchthatagaindeterminesall.Aswithrice,therearemanydifferentvarietiesofpotatoes,but
theycanallbedividedintotwoeasilyidentifiablefamilies.Bakingpotatoesareusuallylong,withrusseted,almostcorklikeskin.Theyarehighinstarch,andtheir
starchishighinamylose.Whencookedparticularlywithdryheattheywillturnlightandfluffy.Boilingpotatoescanbeeitherlongorround,buttheyallhavethin,
smoothskins.Boilingpotatoesarehigherinsugarandmoistureandlowerinstarchthanbakers.Whentheyarecooked,thestarchgranulesinbakingpotatoesswell
andbreakapart,whilethegranulesinboilingpotatoesdont.Thereasonsforthisarenot

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wellunderstood.Onetheorytoexplainwhyboilingpotatoesholdtogetherwhilebakingpotatoesfallapartisthatboilingpotatoesarehigherinamylopectin,which
formslinkagesthatholdthegranulestogether.Anothertheoryisthatboilingpotatoesareslightlyhigherinthepectingluesthatstickthegranulestogether.Andalittlebit
ofpectincanmakeabigdifference.Thedifferencebetweencrispandmealyapples,forexample,comesdowntoalessthan2percentdifferenceinpectincontent.
Crispapplesaretightlyglued,andwhenyoubiteintoone,youhavetofracturethecellsmealyapplesaremoreweaklyglued,andtheyfracturealongthecell
boundaries.
Whateverthereason,becauseofthisdifferenceintexture,bakingpotatoesarebestusedwhenyouwantacreamyresultasthestarchcellssoftenandswell,they
breakapartandsoareeasilydispersedinthedish.Becausethecellsofboilingpotatoesremaintightlyconnectedevenaftercooking,usethemwhenyouwantpotatoes
thatholdtogether,asinsoupsorpotatosalads.Ifyouusebakingpotatoesinasoup,theywilleventuallyfallapart(again,thisisaseemingdisadvantagethatsometimes
canbeturnedtothecooksadvantage,aswhentheyareusedasathickener).
Dependingonyourpreference,youcanuseeitherbakersorboilersformashing.Boilingpotatoeswillgiveyouahomey,lumpymash.Bakingpotatoeswillgiveyouan
ethereallylight,creamypuree.Ifyouregoingtomashthem,bakingpotatoesshouldbesteamedorboiledbakingconcentratesthepotatosflavorsinawaythatcan
bedistractinginthefinaldish.Actually,boilingisamisnomer.Becausethestarchesinpotatoesreachfullgelatinizationat160to180degrees,thepotatoesshouldbe
cookedatasimmerratherthanarollingboiltoavoidovercookingthestarchgranulesandburstingthem.Furthermore,whenmashingpotatoes,dontoverbeatthe
puree.Neveruseafoodprocessororamixer.Thosestarchgranulesaredelicate,andwhenruptured,theyllleakamylopectins,whichwilllinkupintoasticky,gluey
messnomatterwhatkindofpotatoyouuse.

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Bakingpotatoesaretheonestouseforfrenchfries.Becauseboilingpotatoescontainmoresugar,theywillbrowntooquickly.Also,onlyabakingpotatocangiveyou
thecontrastofcrispskinandfluffyinsidethatisthesecrettogreatfries.Trueconnoisseursofthefrenchfryeveninsistthattheyshouldbemadefromoldpotatoes
thereducedmoisturegivesthelightest,fluffiestfry.
Sweetpotatoesandhardshelled,orwinter,squashescanbeusedinmuchthesamewaysaspotatoes.Butbecausetheyarelowerinstarch,theywillneitherthickenas
thoroughly(moreonthistocome)nordevelopglutenwhenhandledroughly.
Thestarchynatureofalloftheseingredientsalsoallowsthemtobeusedasthickeners,inplaceof,forexample,butterorcream.Youcanmakequiteluxuriouscream
soupswithaminimalamountofaddedfatbycookingandpureeingabakingpotatoorsomecookedricealongwiththeotheringredients(silkybisquesoups,infact,
aretraditionallythickenedwithriceratherthancream).Thesoftenedstarchgranuleswillabsorbsomeoftheliquidfromthesoup,thickeningit.Becarefulwhendoing
this,though,nottooverpureethesoup.Rememberthatthoseswollenstarchgranulesaredelicatetheywillbruiseandlosetheirwaterholdingcapabilityifworked
toohard.
Thefamousdishpotatoesgratinisyetanotherexampleofusingthenaturalstarchesinthevegetableforthickening.Inagratin,thepotatoesarecookedinmilkor
cream.Thestarchreleasedincookingthickenstheliquidandbindsthedishtogether.Andbeanscanbeusedthesameway,thoughtheirpronouncedearthinesswould
notworkwithmoredelicatelyflavoreddishes.Whencookingbeanswithoutsoakingthemfirst,youllnoticethebrothismuchthickerthaniftheydbeensoaked
thatsstarchthathasbeenreleasedbythebeansduringcooking.Thosedeliciousrefriedbeansarenothingmorethancookedbeansthathavebeenmashedtorelease
theirstarch.Inotherwords,thebeanshavemadetheirownsauce.

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starchthickenedsauces
Useflourforsaucesthatyouwillcookforalongtimeorthatyouwillreheat.Flourbasedsaucestakelongertomakethanotherstarchbasedsaucestheymust
bethoroughlycookedtoremovetherawtastefromtheproteinbuttheyaremorestableandcanbeheldlonger.

Usecornstarchforlastminutesaucesonly.Itcooksveryquickly,butitbreaksdownwhenheatedforverylong.

Makesurethestarchiswelldispersedbeforeaddingtheliquid.Withflour,thisusuallymeanscookingitwithfat(roux)orthoroughlykneadingitwithbutter(beurre
mani).Withcornstarchorpotatostarch,justmixthestarchwithalittlecoldliquid.Youcandissolveflourstraightintoliquid,butyoullneedtouseablender.Savethis
methodofthickeningforemergencies,sincetherawtasteisthenhardertocookaway.

Whencookingflourwithfat,donotlettheflourbrownthatweakensthestarchintheflour,whichmeansyoullneedmoreflourtothickenthesauce.

Whenaddingliquidtoaroux,itisbettertohavetheliquidcoldoratroomtemperature.Addtheliquidabitatatime,stirringwellwitheachadditiontomakesurethe
starchisthoroughlydispersed.

Becarefulwhenaddinganythingacidic,suchasvinegar,lemonjuiceorevenwine,toastarchbasedsauce.Theacidwillreducethethickeningpowerofthestarch.

Onceasaucehasthickened,keepthestirringtoaminimumtoavoidbreakingitdown.

Holdstarchthickenedsaucesoverlowheatneverallowthemtoboil.

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Ifyouaregoingtobeholdingastarchbasedsauceforverylong,rubthesurfacewithapieceofbuttertocreateathinlayeroffattopreventthetopfromdryingout
andformingaskin.

Sincerawfoodscontainsomuchwater,makesurethatalltheingredientsaddedafterasaucehasthickenedhavealreadybeencookedsotheydontthinit.

Tomakeawhitesauce,remembertheseratios:3tablespoonseachoffatandflourpercupofliquidmakesathickpastethatcanbeusedforcroquettesandsouffls
2tablespoonseachoffatandflourpercupofliquidproducesamoresauceliketexture1tablespooneachoffatandflourpercupofliquidisthinenoughforacream
soup.

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smokycreamofcornsoup
Thisrecipeshowsjusthowgoodawellmadeflourthickenedcreamsoupcanbe.Itssilkinessisnicelyoffsetbythechewybitsofcorn.

6
2
1
1

2
4

earscorn,shuckedandsilkremoved
tablespoonsbutter
cupdicedham
dried(notcanned)chipotlechile,splitandseeded
cupchoppedgreenonions,whitepartsonly,pluscupmincedgreenonions,greenpartsonly
tablespoonsallpurposeflour
cupsmilk
teaspoonsalt

Grillthecornovermediumheatuntilthekernelssoften,about10minutes,turningseveraltimes.
Combinethebutter,ham,chileandwhitepartsofthegreenonionsinamediumsouppotovermediumheatandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilthehamrendersitsfat
andsoftens,about5minutes.
Meanwhile,slicethekernelsfromtheearsofcornintoalargebowl.Usingthebackofaheavyknife,scrapethemilkandanyremainingkernelsfromthecobsinto
thebowl.
Addthecorntothesouppotandcook,stirring,untilthecornbeginstosoften,about5minutes.Stirintheflour.Cook,stirring,untiltheflourisabsorbedbythe
vegetables.Addthemilk,raisetheheattomediumhighandcook,stirring,untilthesoupthickensslightly,about10minutes.Reducetheheattolowandsimmeruntil
thecornissoftanditsflavorpermeatesthesoup,about15minutes.Stirfromtimetotimeandskimoffanyscumthatfloatstothetop.
Justbeforeserving,removethechile.Addthesalt,stir,tasteandadjusttheseasoning.Ladleintolargebowlsandgarnisheachwith2tablespoonsofmincedgreen
onions.
6servings

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pasta
Thecardinalruleofcookinganypastaistouseplentyofwater.Thisisespeciallytrueofdriedpasta,whichcooksforlongerandthrowsoffmorestarchthanfresh.If
cookedintoolittlewater,allofthatfreestarchwillsticktothenoodlesandgluethemintoalargeclump.

Justaswithrice,heatingcookedpastaalongwiththesauce,evenifonlyverybriefly,willallowtheflavoringstopenetratetheexteriorsurfaceofthenoodles.

Usetherightpastashapeforthesauce.Tubularpastawillcatchbitsofchunkysaucesthinnoodlesarebetterforsmoothsauces.

Takeadvantageofthestarchreleasedbydriedpastabyaddingaladlefulofthecookingwatertothesaucetothickenit.

Letpastadoughrestbetweenrollingitoutandcuttingittolettheglutenstrandsformedbytheintensivekneadingrelax.

Whenmakinglasagna,putthecookednoodlesintoabowlofcoldwatertokeepthemfromstickingtogether.Justbesuretopatthemdrywithatowelbefore
layeringthemintothebakingdish.

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orecchiettewithprosciuttoandpeas
Ifyoucantgetfreshpeas,youcanstillmakethisdish.Butrememberthatfrozenpeashavealreadybeenblanched,sowhenthawed,theyllneedtocookforonlya
fewseconds.

1
2
1
2

2
3

poundorecchietteormediumshellpasta
cupshelledfreshpeasorthawedfrozenpeas
tablespoonsbutter
garlicclove,minced
ouncesthinlyslicedprosciutto,cutintothinstrips
cuphalfandhalf
freshsageleaves,cutintothinstrips
tablespoonsfreshlygratedParmigianoReggianocheese,plusmoreforserving

Inalargepot,cookthepastainplentyofrapidlyboilingsaltedwateruntiltender,about10minutes.Ifusingfreshpeas,addtotheboilingwaterafterthepastahas
cookedfor5minutes.Ifusingthawedfrozenpeas,addatthelastminute.
Whilethepastaiscooking,combinethebutterandgarlicinasautpanovermediumlowheatandcookuntilthegarlicturnstranslucent,about3minutes.Addthe
prosciuttoandhalfandhalfandcookuntilthesaucethickensslightly,2to3minutes.Movethesautpantothetopofthepastapottokeepwarm.
Drainthepastaandpeas,reservingalittleofthepastawater,andaddthemtothesautpanwiththegarliccream.Addthesageandcheeseandtosswelltocoat.If
thesauceistoothick,addsomeofthereservedpastawater,nomorethan1tablespoonatatime.Sprinklewithmorecheeseandserve.
4servings

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pastawithbroccolirabe
Thegreatthingaboutthisrecipeasidefromthewayittastesisitsconvenience.Boththebroccolirabeandthepastaarecookedinthesamepotofboilingwater.
Thesauceismadesimplybyheatingoliveoilwithsomeflavorings.Essentially,itsakindofhotpastasalad.Broccolirabe(youllalsoseeitsoldasrapiniorbroccolidi
rape)canbefoundinmostproducemarkets.Itsmainlyskinnystalkswithalotofleavesandlittletops,andithasaforcefulbitternessthatstandsuptovirtuallyany
seasoning.
Whenyouaddtheanchoviesinadishlikethis,doitoverlowheat,stirringthemsotheymeltintothesauce.Cookingoverheatthatistoohighcanturnthemtoughand
bitter.

2
1
6

cupoliveoil
garliccloves,minced
teaspooncrushedredpepper
tablespoonschoppedfreshparsley
tablespoongratedlemonzest
anchovyfillets,chopped
poundbroccolirabe
pounddriedcorkscrewpasta
Juiceoflemon,ortotaste
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

Warmtheoil,garlicandcrushedredpepperinalargeskilletovermediumlowheatuntilthegarlicturnspalebrown,about5minutes.Donotletthegarlicscorch.
Removetheskilletfromtheheatandletcoolslightly.
Addtheparsley,lemonzestandanchoviesandstiruntiltheanchoviesmeltintotheoil,about2minutes.Settheskilletaside.
Meanwhile,cookthebroccolirabeinalargepotofrapidlyboilingsaltedwaterjustuntiltender,2to3minutes.Removefromthepot,keepingthewaterboiling,and
chopthebroccolirabeintoroughlyinchpieces.

Page169
Addthepastatotheboilingwaterandcookuntiltender,about10minutes.Drainthepasta,reservingcupofthewater.
Placetheskilletwiththeflavoredoiloverhighheatandaddthebroccolirabe,pastaandreservedpastawater.Cook,stirringfrequently,untilthewaterboilsaway,
about3minutes.Seasontotastewiththelemonjuice,saltandagoodgrindingofpepperandserve.
6servings

Page170
macaroniandcheese
withgreenonionsandham

Youcanmakethisdishfancybyusingacombinationofdifferentcheesesinthecheesywhitesaucethatbindstogetheralloftheingredients.IlikeFontinawithalittle
freshgoatcheeseandsomeParmigianoReggiano(theyrenotverystrong,soaddthemustardtothewhitesauce).ButtheclassicisgoodoldAmericanCheddar.

3
1
1

1
1

tablespoons(stick)butterplusmoreforgreasingthepan
cupallpurposeflour
cupsmilk
poundelbowmacaroniorotherdriedshortnoodles
tablespoonDijonmustard(optional)
Saltandwhitepepper
poundcheese,grated(seeheadnoteabove)
poundham,cubed
bunchgreenonions,sliced
cupsfreshbreadcrumbs

Preheattheovento350degrees.Generouslybuttera2quartgratindish.
Tomakethewhitesauce,melt4tablespoons(stick)ofthebutterinamediumsaucepanovermediumlowheat.Addtheflourandwhiskuntilsmooth.Cookfor5
minutes,stirringoccasionally,toremovetherawtasteoftheflour.Graduallyadd1cupofthemilkandwhiskuntilsmooth.Raisetheheattomediumandaddthe
remaining2cupsmilk,whiskingoccasionallytopreventlumping.Cookuntilthesaucehasthickened,about10minutes.
Meanwhile,cookthemacaroniinplentyofrapidlyboilinglightlysaltedwateruntilbarelytender,about8minutes.Drain,transfertoalargemixingbowlandtosswith1
tablespoonofthebuttertopreventsticking.

Page171
Addthemustardtothewhitesauce,ifusing,andseasontotastewithsaltandpepper.Addthecheeseandstirtomix.Addthehamandgreenonionsandmixagain.
Addthewhitesaucetothemacaroniandcombinethoroughly.Turnoutintothebutteredgratindish.
Inasmallskillet,melttheremaining1tablespoonbutter.Addthebreadcrumbsandfry,stirringconstantly,untillightlytoasted,about5minutes.
Scatterthebreadcrumbsoverthetopofthemacaroni.Bakeuntilthetopisbrownedandbubbling,about30minutes.Serveimmediately.
6to8servings

Page172
broccolilasagna
Thisisaheartyoldfashionedlasagna.Ifyoudonthavetimetopreparefreshpasta,youcansubstitutedriedwithouttoomuchlossoftexture.Youllneedtocookthe
noodlesfor10to12minutesinthatcase.

PASTADOUGH
1

1
2

cupsallpurposeflour
teaspoonsalt
tablespoonoliveoil
largeeggs
Water(optional)

TOMATOSAUCE
2
1
4
1
1

tablespoonsoliveoil
mediumyellowonion,minced
garliccloves,minced
(28ounce)cantomatoes
teaspooncrushedredpepper
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

FILLING
1

poundbroccoli
poundbroccolirabe
(15ounce)containerricottacheese
poundfreshgoatcheese
tablespoonfreshlygratedpecorinoRomanocheese
Salt

tablespoonmincedfreshparsley

Makethepastadough:Combinetheflour,saltandoilinafoodprocessorandpulsetocombine.Addtheeggsandprocessuntilthedoughformsaroughballthat
holdstogether,about20seconds.Ifnecessary,withtheprocessorrunning,slowlyaddupto1tablespoonwater.Continueprocessingfor10to15seconds,untilthe
dough

Page173
formsasmoothballthatridesontopoftheblade.Wrapthedoughtightlyinplasticwrapandsetasidetorestfor30minutes.
Cutthedoughinhalf.Coveronehalfwithadampteatowel.Flattentheremainingdoughslightlywithyourhand,thendustitlightlywithflourandpassitthroughthe
widestsettingonapastamachine.Folditinhalf,dustwithflourandrollitthroughagain,onthesamesetting.Repeatuntilthedoughbecomessilkytothetouch,about
7or8passes.
Adjustthepastamachinetothenextsettingandrollthedoughthroughitagain.Repeatuntilthedoughisasthinaspossiblewithouttearing.Cutinto6inchlengthsand
setaside.
Makethetomatosauce:Inamediumsaucepan,heattheoil.Addtheonionandgarlicandcookovermediumlowheatuntiltranslucent,about10minutes.Addthe
tomatoesandcrushedredpepperandcookuntilthetomatoesfallapartwhenchoppedwithaspoon,about5minutes.
Pureethesauceusingafoodmillorfoodprocessorandtransfertoacleansaucepan.Cookthesauceovermediumheatuntilitissmoothandcombined,about10
minutes.Seasontotastewithsaltandpepper.Setaside.
Makethefilling:Separatethefloretsfromthebroccolistalksandreserve.Peelthestalks,trimthebottomendsandcutthestalksintosmallcubes.Separatetheleaftips
fromthebroccolirabeandreserve.Cutthestemsintosmallcubes.
Cookthecubedstemsinplentyofrapidlyboilingsaltedwateruntiltendercrisp,5to7minutes.Removethemfromthewateranddrain.Addthefloretsandleaftipsto
theboilingwaterandcookuntiltender,2to3minutes.Drain.Choptheleavesandfloretsintoroughpieces.
Inabowl,combinethestems,leavesandfloretswiththecheese.Mixwellandaddsalttotaste.(Romanoissalty,sobecautious.)

Page174
Preheattheovento350degrees.
Cook4or5sheetsofpastaatatimeinalargepotofboilingsaltedwateruntiltheyfloattothesurface.(Donotovercrowdthenoodles,ortheywillsticktogether.)
Withaskimmer,transfertoalargebowlfilledwithcoldwater.
Assemblethelasagna:Spreadcupofthetomatosauceinthebottomofalightlyoiled13x9inchglassbakingdish.Patacoupleofsheetsofpastadrywithatowel
andplacethemoverthesauce.Spreadonequarterofthefillingevenlyoverthenoodles.Repeat,alternatingthenoodlesandthefilling,untilallthefillingisused,and
endwithalayerofnoodles.Compressandsmooththefillingbypressinglightlyonthetoplayerwiththepalmsofyourhands.Spreadtheremainingtomatosauceover
topofthelasagna.
Bakethelasagneuntilheatedthrough,20to30minutes.Beforeserving,sprinkletheparsleyovertopandletstandfor5minutestoset.
6to8servings

Page175
freeformlasagnaofroastedasparagus
Thisisanunusuallasagnainfact,becauseitdoesntcontainagushyfilling,youmightnotconsideritalasagnaatall.ItsdefinitelyinthenewwaveItalianstyle.This
isonedishwherefreshpastaisamust.

2
1
1
8

cupallpurposeflour
Salt
teaspoonsoliveoil,plusextraforroasting
largeegg
poundfreshasparagus
Juiceoflemon
tablespoons(1stick)butter,melted
cupfreshlygrated
ParmigianoReggianocheese

Combinetheflour,apinchofsaltandtheoilinafoodprocessorandpulsetocombine.Addtheeggandpulseuntilthedoughformsaballthatridesaroundontopof
theblade.Removefromthefoodprocessorandwrapinplasticwrapandsetasideforatleast30minutes.
Preheattheovento500degrees.
Flattenthedoughslightlywithyourhand,thendustitlightlywithflour.Passitthroughthewidestsettingonapastamachine.Folditinhalf,dustwithflourandrollit
throughagain,onthesamesetting.Repeatuntilthedoughbecomessilkytothetouch,about7or8passes.Lightlyflourthedoughbetweenrollingsifitbeginstofeel
sticky.
Adjustthemachinetothenextsettingandfeedthedoughthroughitagain.Repeatuntilyouareatthenarrowestsetting.Cutthepastasheetsinto6inchlengths,dust
withflourandsetasideuntilreadytouse.
Snapthebottomsofftheasparagusspearsanddiscarddonotpeel.Placethespearsinajellyrollpanandlightlycoatwithoil.Salttotaste.Roasttheasparagusuntil
cookedthrough,7to10minutes,shaking

Page176
thepanoccasionallytokeepitfromsticking.Removefromtheoven,squeezethelemonjuiceoverandsetasidetokeepwarm.Reducetheoventemperatureto350
degrees.
Cook4or5pastasheetsatatimeinalargepotofrapidlyboilingsaltedwater.(Donotovercrowdthenoodles,ortheywillsticktogether.)Thepastaisdonewhen
thesheetsfloattothesurface,1to2minutes.Removefromtheboilingwateranddrainonateatowelifusingimmediately,ortransfertoalargebowlofcoldwater.
(Thedishcanbepreparedtothispointatleast1hourandupto4hoursaheadoftime.Theasparagusshouldbecooledandrefrigerated,tightlycoveredthecooked
pastasheetsshouldbeleftinthebowlofwater.)
Drainthepastaandpatdry.Combinethepastainamixingbowlwiththeasparagus,butterand2tablespoonsofthecheeseandtosstomixwell.Divideamong4
ovenproofplatesandreturntotheoventoheatthrough,about5minutes.
Pouranybutterremaininginthemixingbowloverthepastaanddustlightlywiththeremaining2tablespoonscheese.Serveimmediately.
4servings

Page177
wildmushroomlasagna
Awhitesauce,ratherthantheusualricotta,actsasthebinderinthislasagna.ThissauceisactuallyverytraditionalinItaliancooking,thoughnotnecessarilyinItalian
Americancooking.Youllwanttousefreshpastainthisrecipetogetthefullbenefitofitstexture.Mexicancreamcanbefoundinmanysupermarketsandinmost
Latinomarkets.Ifyoucantfindit,substitutecrmefracheorsourcream.

1
5

3
2
1
2
1
2
4
2
1

ouncedriedmorels,soakedinwarmwatertocoveruntilsoft
tablespoonsbutter
mediumyellowonion,minced
tablespoonsallpurposeflour
cupsmilk
bayleaf
sprigsfreshthyme
(15ounce)jarMexicancream(seeabove)
Salt
(8ounce)packagesmushrooms,trimmedandquartered
garliccloves,minced
tablespoonsCognac
PastaDough(page172),rolledoutasdirectedonpage173andcutinto6inchsheets
cuptomatopuree
poundmozzarella,shredded
ouncesParmigianoReggianocheese,grated

Removethemorelsfromthesoakingliquid,strainingandreservingtheliquid,andcoarselychop.Setaside.
Melt3tablespoonsofthebutterinamediumsaucepanovermediumlowheat.Addtheonionandcook,stirring,untiltheonionbecomestranslucent,about5minutes.
Addtheflourandcook,stirring,untiltheflourturnslightgolden,about3minutes.Graduallyaddthemilkandthebayleafandcookstirringuntilthesaucethickens,
about5

Page178
minutes.Addcupofthereservedsoakingliquidfromthemorels,thethymeandallbutcupoftheMexicancream.Seasontotastewithsalt.Reducetheheattoas
lowaspossibleandkeepwarm,stirringoccasionallytokeepthecreamsaucefromsticking.
Meanwhile,melttheremaining2tablespoonsbutterinalargesautpanoverhighheat.Addthefreshmushroomsandcook,stirring,untilthemushroomsreleasetheir
moisture,thenreabsorbitandgraduallybecomegolden,7to10minutes.Whenthemushroomsbegintobrown,addthegarlicandcookuntilitisfragrant.Addthe
morels,thenpourintheCognacandcookuntilthealcoholsmellisgone.AddthereservedcupMexicancreamandcupofthecreamsauceandseasontotaste
withsalt.Stirwellandreducetheheattolow.
Preheattheovento325degrees.
Cook4or5sheetsofpastaatatimeinalargepotofboilingsaltedwateruntilthenoodlesfloattothesurface.(Donotovercrowdthenoodles,ortheywillstick
together.)Withaskimmer,transfertoalargebowlfilledwithcoldwater.
Removethethymeandbayleaffromthecreamsauceanddiscard.Coatthebottomofalightlyoiled13x9inchlasagnapanorglassbakingdishwithcupofthe
tomatopureeandtopwithcupofthecreamsauce.Lightlypat2noodlesdryandlaythemoverthesauce.Repeattomakeasolidlayer.Distributeroughlyonethird
ofthecookedmushroomsoverthenoodles,thenscatteronequarterofthemozzarellaandonequarteroftheParmigianoReggianooverthemushrooms.Addanother
layerofnoodlesandlightlypresseverythingevenlyintoplace.Repeatwith2morelayersofmushrooms,cheeseandnoodles.Spoontheremainingtomatopuree
aroundtheedgesofthepanandspoontheremainingcreamsauceoverthecenter.ScattertheremainingmozzarellaandParmigianoReggianoovertop.
Bakeuntillightlybrownedontop,about30minutes.Removefromtheovenandletcoolfor5minutestofirmupbeforeserving.
6to8servings

Page179
pastawithpotatoes
Starchonstarchmaysoundodd,butitistraditionalinsomepartsofItalyand,moreimportant,itisdelicious.Besuretoallowthepotatoestodevelopagoodcrust
beforeyoustirthem.

1
6
2
1
1
3

poundlargeboilingpotatoes,peeled
tablespoonsoliveoil
garliccloves,minced
teaspoonsmincedfreshrosemary
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
poundshortdriedpastashapes,suchasfusilli
tablespoonssnippedfreshchives

Cutthepotatoesintoaneveninchdice.Blanchtheminrapidlyboilinglightlysaltedwateruntiltheyarebarelytender,7to10minutes.Aknifeshouldjustpenetrate
acubewhenitispoked.Removethepotatoesfromthewater(keepingthewaterataboil),spreadthemonateatowelandgentlybutthoroughlypatthemdry.
Heattheoilinamediumskilletovermediumhighheat.Whentheoilisveryhotbutnotsmoking,addthepotatocubesinasinglelayerandcook,withoutstirring,until
theyareslightlycrustyandlightlybrownedonthebottom,about5minutes.Reducetheheattomedium,stirgentlyandcookforanother5minutes.Addthegarlicand
rosemary,stirgentlyagainandcookuntilallsidesofthepotatoesarecrispandlightlybrowned,about5moreminutes.Seasontotastewithsaltandpepper.
Meanwhile,afteryouturnthepotatoesthefirsttime,addthepastatotheboilingwater.Cookuntiltender,8to10minutes,dependingonthevarietyandshape.
Drainthepastawellandaddittotheskilletwiththepotatoes.Addthechivesandstirgentlytomixwell.Cookfor1moreminutetocombinetheflavors,andserve.
6servings

Page180
softpolentawithrag
Insomepartsoftheworld,cornmealisthedominantstarch.Whileitmakesanimperfectpasta,canyouimaginemakingpolentawithwheatflour?Igotthisnowork
methodforcookingpolentafromPaulaWolfert,whogotitfromthebackofabagofpolenta.Thedishissogooditcouldbeservedbyitself,withonlyalittlebutter
andgratedParmigianoReggianobeateninatthelastminute.ButIfindpolentaisawonderfulspongetoserveunderjuicystews,orrags,likethisoneIcameupwith
usingspareribs.Ifyourefeedingacrowd,addsomewholesausagesforthelast20minutesofcooking.Thismakesalotofsauce,soyoullprobablyhavesomeleft
overserveitthenextdaywithlightlybutteredboilednoodles.Donttrytomultiplythepolenta,though,unlessyouwanttobakeitintwopans.Simplydoubledin
onepan,ittakesforevertocook.

RAG
2
6
3
2
2
1
4
2
1
1

tablespoonsoliveoil
countrystyleporkribs
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
Italiansausages,removedfromcasings
mediumyellowonions,diced
mediumcarrots,diced
stalkcelery,diced
garliccloves,minced
teaspoonsmincedfreshrosemary
cupdryredwine
(28ounce)cancrushedtomatoes
cuptomatopaste

POLENTA
2
2
2
2

quartswater
teaspoonssalt
cupscoarsecornmeal
tablespoonsbutter

tablespoonsmincedfreshparsley

Page181
Maketherag:Preheattheovento300degrees.
HeattheoilinaDutchovenovermediumhighheat.Seasontheribswithsaltandpeppertotaste.Whentheoilisveryhot,almostsmoking,addtheribstothepotand
brownthemquicklyonallsides,about15minutes.
Leavetheribsinthepanandcrumblethesausagesovertop.Reducetheheattomedium,stirandcookuntilthesausageisnolongerraw,about5minutes.Addthe
onions,carrotsandceleryandcook,stirring,untiltheyarelightlybrowned,about5minutes.Addthegarlicandrosemaryandcookuntilfragrant,2to3minutes.Pour
thewineoverthetop,increasetheheattohighandcookuntilthewinereduces,about5minutes.Addthetomatoesandtomatopasteandstirtocombinewell.
Coverandbakeuntiltheribsareforktender,about2hours.(Theragcanbemadetothispointupto2daysinadvance,coveredandrefrigerated.)
Increasetheoventemperatureto350degrees.
Makethepolenta:Combinethewater,salt,cornmealandbutterina3to4quartovenproofsaucepan.Bake,uncovered,for1hour20minutes.Stirthepolentaand
bakefor10moreminutes.Removefromtheovenandsetasidefor5minutestorest.
Meanwhile,iftheragwasrefrigerated,removeitfromtherefrigeratorandreheatitontopofstove.
Toserve,spoonthepolentainto6warmedshallowpastabowls.Place1riboneachandspoontheragovertop.Garnishwiththeparsleyandserveimmediately.
6servings

Page182

riceandrisotto
Usetherightriceforthejob.Longgrainrices,suchascommercialwhiterice,willbelightandseparatewhencooked.Shortandmediumgrainrices,suchasthose
usedforrisottoandpaella,willbecreamyandsticky.

Whenusinglonggrainrice,alwaysrinseitwellunderrunningwaterbeforecookingit.Thisdoesremoveaverysmallamountofnutrients,butitalsowashesawaya
lotofexcesssurfacestarchthatcanmakethericeclump.

Whenlonggrainriceiscooked,setitasideofftheheatbutstillcoveredfor5minutes.Thiswillallowthesurfaceofthegrainstoharden,makingthemevenmore
separate.

Gentlyfluffcookedlonggrainricewithafork,butavoidstirringit,whichcanbruisethegrainsandreleasethestickystarch.

Ifyouaregoingtocookthericeagain(asforfriedrice),boilitinadvanceandrefrigerateituntilcoldsoitwillremainfirmandseparateafterthesecondcooking.

Tokeepricesaladsfrombeingstickyandstarchy,cookthericeasyouwoulddriedpastainplentyofrapidlyboilingsaltedwater.Whenyoudrainit,anyfree
starchwillwashoffwiththewater,ratherthansticktotherice.

Dressricesaladswhiletheyarestillwarmsothatthericewillabsorbsomeoftheflavoringsbeforetheouterstarchshellsofthegrainsharden.Bringrefrigeratedrice
saladstoroomtemperaturebeforeservingtoreturnsomeofthetendernesslostduringchilling.

Forrisottosandpilafs,sautthericeinfat,withanyflavorings,untilthegrainsturnopalescentorpearlyontheoutsidebeforeaddingliquid.Thiswillsettheexterior
shellofthegrainsandhelptokeepthemseparate.

Page183
Forrisottos,addtheliquidalittleatatime,stirringconstantly.Thistechniquereleasesasmuchstarchaspossibleintotheliquid,resultingincreamyrice.

Whenmakingrisotto,useafairlyweakbrothinordertoavoidcoveringuptheflavorofthericeandthefeaturedingredient.Or,toemphasizethemainflavor,
strengthenthebrothwithpeelingsandtrimmingsfromthefeaturedingredient.

Finishrisottosbybeatinginsomebutterorgratedcheese.Dosovigorouslyinordertoreleaseasmuchstarchaspossibleandproducethecreamiestrisotto.

Page184
artichokerisotto
Youcanusethisrisottotechniquewithawidevarietyofvegetables,fromfenneltobittergreens.Storingthetrimmedartichokesinacidulatedwater(waterwithlemon
juice)keepsoxygenfromdarkeningthecutsurfaces.Forrisotto,usealightflavoredstocksotheflavorofthericeandthemainingredientwillpredominate.

4
1
2
2
1

Juiceof1lemon
mediumartichokes
quartchickenstock
tablespoonsoliveoil
garliccloves,minced
cupsArboriorice
cupfreshlygratedParmigianoReggianocheese
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

Fillalargebowlwithcoldwaterandaddthelemonjuice.
Trimtheartichokesbypullingoffanyleavesclingingtothestemandthetwoouterrowsofleavesaroundthebase.Holding1artichokeinonehandandasharpparing
knifeintheother,keepingtheknifeparalleltothestem,turntheartichokeagainsttheknife,trimmingawaytheouterleavesuntilonlythepalegreentoyellowbase
remains.Laytheartichokeonitssideandcutawaythetopsoftheremainingleaves,roughlywheretheleavesswellout.Withtheparingknife,peeloffthedarkgreen
skinoftheartichokeheartfromthebasetowardthestem,exposingthelightgreenfleshunderneath.Settheartichokeheartupsidedownontheworksurfaceandcutit
intoquarters.Trimawaythehairychokes.Cutoffthestemsandcutthemintoinchpieces.Cuteachartichokequarterinto4or5pieces.Addtheartichoke,
includingthestems,tothelemonwaterandrepeattheprocedurewiththeremainingartichokes.
Bringthestocktoaboilandmaintainatasimmer.

Page185
Draintheartichokesthoroughly.Combinetheoil,artichokesandgarlicinabroad,deep,heavynonreactiveskillet(aclassicsautpanisbest).Placethepanover
mediumheatandcookuntilthegarlicistranslucent.Donotletthegarlicbrown.Addthericeandstirwithawoodenspoonuntiltheoutsideofthegrainsbecomes
translucentandshinyandyouhearadrysingingsoundwhenyoustirthericeagainstthesideofthepan.
Add1cupofthesimmeringstocktothepan(therewillbemuchbubblingandhissing)andcook,stirringconstantly,untilthericeisalmostdry.Youshouldntseeany
liquidinthebottomofthepanwhenyoustir.Addanothercupofstockandrepeattheprocedure.Continuetoaddthestockandcookuntilthericeswellsandsoftens.
Therisottoshouldbeverycreamybutjustshortofsoupy,andtheindividualgrainsshouldbecookedthroughbutstillhaveadistinctbiteatthecenter(thecentersof
thegrainsshouldnotbechalky,though).
Removetherisottofromtheheatandaddthecheese.Stirbrisklyandforcefullytoreleasemorestarchfromthericeandincreasethecreaminess.Seasontotastewith
saltandpepperandserve.
6servings

Page186
zucchiniandporcinirisotto
ThisisbasedonarisottoIhadatthesuperbItalianrestaurantDalPescatore,midwaybetweenCremonaandMantova,inCannetosulOglio.Althoughthatkindof
threestarcookingisbeyondhomecooks,thisisanicelatesummer/earlyfalldinnerdishthatisgoodenoughforusmortals.Usingwaterinsteadofbrothforsome
risottosisonetrickIlearnedfromtherestaurant.Waterletstheflavoroftheotheringredientsshinethrough.Youwillhavetoaddalittleextrasalttomakeupforwhat
wouldbenormallyabsorbedfromthebroth.

2
2

1
1
1
4
3
1
2
1

poundzucchini
ouncesdriedporcinimushrooms(aboutcup)
quartswater
poundplumtomatoes
stalkcelery,minced
garlicclove,peeled
tablespoonchoppedfreshparsley
tablespoons(stick)butter
cupsVialoneNanoorArboriorice
cupdrywhitewine
tablespoonsmincedfreshchives
teaspoontornfreshmintleaves
Salt

Trimofftheendsofthezucchiniandplaceitinabowloflightlysaltedcoldwatertocover.Soakfor30minutestofirm.
Combinethemushroomsandjustenoughhotwatertocoverinasmallbowl.Soakuntilthemushroomssoften(placeanothersmallbowlontoptoweightthe
mushroomsuntiltheyveabsorbedenoughwatertosinkontheirown),about20minutes.
Bringthe2quartsofwatertoaboilinalargepot.CutashallowXinthebottomofeachtomatoandaddthemtotheboilingwater.Cookfor30seconds,removeand
rinseundercoldwater.(Keepthewater

Page187
nearaboil.)Peelthetomatoes,cuttheminhalfandsqueezeouttheseeds.Coarselychopandsetaside.
Shredthezucchinionagraterorinafoodprocessor.Drainthemushroomsandsqueezedry,reservingthesoakingwaterformakingsoup,ifdesired(dontadditto
therisotto,orthemushroomflavorwillbetoostrong).Finelychopthemushroomsandsetaside.
Combinethecelery,garlic,parsleyand2tablespoonsofthebutterinalargeskilletandcookovermediumheatuntilthecelerysoftens,about5minutes.Addtherice
andcook,stirringwithawoodenspoon,untiltheoutsideofthegrainsbecomestranslucentandshinyandthericesingsdrylywhenstirredacrossthebottomofthe
pan,about3minutes.Addthewineandcook,stirring,untilitevaporates.
Add1cupofthesimmeringwatertotheskilletandcook,stirring,untilithasbeenabsorbed.Add2morecupsofwater,1cupatatime,inthesamemannerthenadd
thezucchini.Add1morecupofwaterandcook,stirring,untilithasbeenabsorbed.Addthemushroomsandtomatoes,andbegintoaddthewateronlycupata
time,cookingandstirring,untilthericeiscreamyandslightlychewybutnotatallchalky.Thetotalamountofwateraddedwillbeabout5cups.
Removethepanfromtheheat,addtheremaining2tablespoonsbutter,thechivesandmintandstirvigorouslyfor1minute.Seasontotastewithsaltabout1
teaspoonandserveimmediately.
6maindishor8appetizerservings

Page188
seafoodricesalad
Ricesaladsareagreatwaytouseupbitsandpiecesofleftoveringredients.Theimportantthingsaretocookthericeinlotsofwater,likepasta,sothatitisntstarchy
andstickyandtodressthericewhileitisstillwarm.

2
1
1

cupslonggrainwhiterice,rinsedwell
Juiceof2lemons,plusmoretotaste,ifneeded
teaspoonssalt
teaspooncrushedredpepper
cupoliveoil
poundsmallshrimp,peeled
poundcleanedcalamari(squid),bodiesslicedintorings,tentacleshalved
poundmussels,scrubbedanddebearded,orclams,scrubbed
cupdrywhitewine
poundslicedsoppressataorotherspicysalami,cutintothinstrips
redonion,dicedsmall
Mincedfreshherbs,suchasbasil,mintandparsley(optional)

Cookthericeinalargepotofrapidlyboilinglightlysaltedwateruntilitistender,about15minutes.Donotovercookorundercookit:thericeshouldbesoftallthe
waythroughbutshouldnotbebeginningtoexplodeattheends.Drain,placeinalargemixingbowl,coverwithatowelandsetasidefor5minutes.
Addhalfofthelemonjuice,thesalt,crushedredpepperandoiltothericeandstirgentlytomixwell.Donotstirtoorapidly,oryouwillcrushthericeanditwill
becomesticky.Coverandchillfor1to2hours.
Cooktheshrimpandcalamariseparatelyinrapidlyboilingwaterjustuntilfirm(1to2minutesforsmallshrimp30to45secondsforcalamari).Drain.Placeinasmall
bowl,tosswithhalfoftheremaininglemonjuiceandchillfor30minutes.

Page189
Whenyouarealmostreadytoserve,combinethemusselsorclams,thewineandtheremaininglemonjuiceinalargesaucepanandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.
Covertightlyandcookjustuntilthemusselsorclamsopen,about5minutes.Discardanythatdonotopen.
Removethericefromtherefrigeratorandstrainthewarmmusselcookingjuiceoverthetop.Addtheshrimpandcalamari,thesalamiandonionandgentlytosstomix
well.Adjusttheseasoningstotaste.Thesaladshouldbepleasantlytartwithjustahintofoliveoilflavor.Ifyoulike,addsomemincedherbs,butdontgooverboard.
Placethemusselsorclams,intheirshells,inthericeandserve.
8to10servings

Page190

beansandlentils
Youdontneedtosoakdriedbeansbeforecookingthem.Soakingthemwillspeedtheircookingtime,butitwilldiminishtheirflavor.

Saltdriedbeanswhenyoustarttocookthem,toseasonthemthrough.Allowabout1teaspoonofsaltperpoundofbeans.Aftercooking,youcanaddmoresaltif
youwant.

Alwaysbegincookingbeans,lentilsandotherlegumesincoldwater.

Mineralsaltswillslowthesofteningofdriedbeans.Ifyouhaverepeatedproblemswithlegumesthatdontsoften,haveyourtapwaterchecked.

Ifyouwantyourbeanstobeseparateandlightlikericecooktheminlotsofwater.

Beansaredonewhentheyaretenderthroughthereshouldbenochalkycenter.Anotherwaytotestisbypickingupabeanonaspoonandthenblowingonit.If
theskinwrinkles,theunderlyingstarchhasbeencookedthoroughly.

Whenservingbeansorlentilscold,asinasalad,followthesameguidelinesasforrice:seasonthemwhiletheyarestillwarmsothattheflavorscanpenetrate,and
allowtherefrigeratedbeanstocometoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

Page191
whitebeancrostini
Cannedwhitebeansarenobodysideaofaluxuryingredient,yetheretheirblandstarchinesspairsperfectlywiththefinaldrizzleofwhitetruffleoil.Whitetruffleoilis
oneofthoseingredientsthatshouldbeusedwithalighthand.Ahintofitwilllendanauraoftruffleswithouttheexpense.Toomuch,anditsmellslikehairtonic.You
canfinditingourmetstores.

2
2

(18inch)baguette
cupcannedwhitebeans,rinsedanddrained
cupwalnuthalves
tablespoonsbutter,atroomtemperature
Salt
tablespoonswhitetruffleoil

Preheatthebroiler.Slicethebaguetteintoinchthickslicesandtoastonbothsidesunderthebroileruntilgoldenbrown,7to10minutes.
Pureethebeans,walnutsandbutterinafoodprocessor.Tasteandaddsaltasneeded(somebeansaresaltierthanothers).
Justbeforeserving,withthefoodprocessorrunning,addtheoilinathinstream.Spreadadollopofthepureeoneachpieceoftoastandserveimmediately.
36crostini,8to10servings

Page192
pintobeanpuree
Thestarchfromthesmashedbeansthickensintoathick,heavenlypuree.Manyfoodsaremorecomplicatedfewareasdelicious.Cotijaisadry,crumblycheesethat
canbefoundinmanysupermarketsandanyMexicanmarket.Ifyoucantfindit,substituteMontereyJack.Itsimportanttousedriedchipotlechilesforthisrecipe,not
thecannedonesthatcomeinanadobosauce.Ifyoucantfindthem,substituteanchosorleavethemoutaltogether.EpazotecanbefoundinMexicanmarkets.Serve
thisasasidedishwithgrilledmeats.

1
3
2
2
1
5
2
2

pounddriedpintobeans,pickedoverandrinsed
Salt
driedchipotlemoritachilesor2driedchipotlemecochiles
mediumyellowonions,chopped
garliccloves
largesprigfreshepazote(optional)
cupswater
tablespoonsbaconfat
Freshlygroundblackpepper
mediumtomatoes,chopped,forgarnish
cupchoppedredonion,forgarnish
cupcrumbledcotijacheeseorshreddedMontereyJackcheese,forgarnish

Preheattheovento350degrees.
Combinethebeans,1teaspoonsalt,chiles,onions,garlic,epazote(ifusing)andwaterinalargeDutchoven.Bringtoasimmerovermediumhighheat.Coverthepot
tightlyandplaceintheoven.Cookuntilthebeansaresoft,to2hours.Checkafterabout45minutestomakesurethereisenoughwater,andaddmoreifneeded.
Thebeansshouldnotbesoupy,buttheyshouldnotdryouteither.(Thebeanscanbemadetothispoint2to3daysinadvancecoverandrefrigerate.)

Page193
Meltthebaconfatinalargeskilletovermediumhighheat.Ladlethebeansandtheirliquidintotheskillet,removingthechiles.Cook,stirring,untilthebeansbeginto
bubble,about2minutes.Continuecooking,smashinghalfofthebeanswiththebackofthespoon,untilthemixturethickens,about5minutes.Removefromtheheat
andseasonwithadditionalsalt,ifneeded,andpepper.
Divideamong6bowls,garnishwiththetomatoes,redonionandcheeseandserve.
6servings

Page194
whitebeanandswisschardstew
ThisisoneofthosedishesthatcametogetheronaharriedSundaywhenhomeprojectsoverlappedwithfriendscomingtodinner.Everyingredienthadbeeninmy
houseatleastaweek,includingthechard,whichwasleftuncookedfromtheweekendbefore.Thefinalblessingofoliveoiliswhatmakesthedish.Donotneglectit
andthefruitierandmorepepperytheoil,thebetter.

1
2
2
1
2
1
2

pounddriedGreatNorthernbeans,pickedoverandrinsed
Salt
tablespoonsoliveoil
stripsbacon,cutinto1inchsquares
mediumcarrot,chopped
garliccloves,minced
bunchSwisschard
sprigsfreshthyme
Fruityoliveoilforserving
Coarsesalt

Preheattheovento300degrees.
Combinethebeansand1teaspoonsaltinalargeDutchoven.Addenoughwatertocoverthebeansamplyandbringtoaboilovermediumheat.
Coverthepotandplaceintheoven.Cookuntilthebeansarejustsoft,abouthours.Fromtimetotime,checkthebeansandaddmorewaterifnecessary.(Older
anddrierbeanswilltakemuchmorewaterthanfreshones.)
Whenthebeansarealmostdone,heattheoilinalargestewpot.Addthebaconandcookuntilitislightlybrowned,about5minutes.Addthecarrotandcookuntil
soft,another5minutes.Addthegarlicandcookuntilfragrant,about2minutes.

Page195
Whilethebaconmixtureiscooking,cutupthechard.Separatetheleavesfromthestemsandcutthestemsinto1inchpieces.Cuttheleavesintothinstrips.
Addthechardstemsandthymetothebaconmixture,thenaddthebeans,plusenoughwatertomakealightstewconsistency.Cook,covered,overmediumheatuntil
thestemshavesoftened,about20minutes,stirringfromtimetotime.Stirinthechardleavesandcookjustuntilsoft,about5minutes.
Servewiththecoarsesaltandagoodoliveoilontheside.
6servings

Page196
pintobeanandsquashstew
Pintobeans,chilesandsquashcombineforaflavorthatisearthy,spicyandsweet,justthethingforafallorwinterdinner.

1
1

2
1
4
1
2
1
1

pounddriedpintobeans,pickedoverandrinsed
quartswater
Salt
mediumyellowonion,chopped
garliccloves,minced
inchthickslicesaltpork
Freshlygroundblackpepper
slicesbacon,diced
jalapeochile,seededandminced
greenonions,minced
butternutsquash,peeled,seededandcutinto1inchcubes
cupbeefstock
redonion,finelydiced,forgarnish
cupchoppedfreshcilantro,forgarnish
cupsourcream,forgarnish

Preheattheovento300degrees.
Combinethebeans,water,1teaspoonsalt,theonion,garlicandsaltporkinalargeDutchoven.Bringtoaboilontopofthestove,thencoverandbakeuntilthebeans
arecooked,to2hours.Seasontotastewithsalt,ifnecessary,andpepper.Checkthewaterleveltomakesurethebeansdontdryout.
About45minutesbeforethebeansarecooked,cookthebaconwiththejalapeoandgreenonionsinalargesautpanoverlowheatuntilthebaconiscrisp.
Addthesquashandstock,coverandcookuntilthesquashisjusttender,about30minutes.

Page197
Addthesquashmixturetothebeansandmixgentlybutwell.Donotsmashthebeansorsquash.Spoonthebeanandsquashstewinto6servingbowls,garnisheach
withtheredonion,cilantroand2tablespoonsofthesourcreamandserve.
6servings

Page198
porkandbeans...andendive
Ifindthatthebittergreenedgeofendive(thecurlykind,notBelgian)cutsthroughtherichnessofthisdishnicely.Savethepalegreeninnerleavesforasalad,dressed
withamustardyvinaigrette.ThosewhodisdaintheideaofmatchingfoodandwineshouldservethisdishwithanyredwineandthentryitwithadecentChianti.The
latterisanabsolutelysuperbmatch.

2
1
1
2
2
3
1
5
2

tablespoonsoliveoil
poundItaliansausage
poundscountrystyleporkribs
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
mediumcarrots,chopped
mediumyellowonions,chopped
garliccloves,sliced
pounddriedwhitebeans,pickedoverandrinsed
cupswater
cupschoppedcurlyendive(toughgreenleavesonly)

Preheattheovento300degrees.
HeattheoilinalargeDutchovenovermediumhighheat.Cutthesausagesinhalf.Sprinkletheribswithsaltandpeppertotaste.Brownthesausagesandtheribsin
thehotoil,transferringthemtoaplatewhentheyaredone.
Pouroffallbut2tablespoonsofthefatfromthepotandaddthecarrots,onionsandgarlic.Reducetheheattomedium,coverandcook,stirringoccasionallyand
scrapingthebottomofthepottofreeallthebrownbits,untilthevegetablessoften,about15minutes.
Addthebeanstothepotandstirtomixwiththevegetables.Addthewaterand2teaspoonssaltandreturnthemeattothepot.Placeasheetofaluminumfoilover,but
nottouching,thesurfaceofthemeatsoitislooselycovered,coverandbakeuntilthebeansaresoft,to

Page199
2hours.Afterthefirsthour,begincheckingthebeansevery20minutes,stirringandaddingmorewaterifnecessary.Thedishshouldhaveastewlikeconsistency
whenthebeansaredone.
Removethepotfromtheovenandaddtheendive.Stirwelltomix,coverandsetasideuntiltheendivehaswilted,5to10minutes.Servehot.
8to10servings

Page200
braisedduckandlentils
Lentilshavetheearthyflavorofdriedbeans,buttheycookmuchmorequickly.Ifindtheyarehelpedmightilybyashotofvinegarjustbeforeserving.

4
2
2
2
1

6
3
2
4
2
1
1

mediumcarrots
mediumyellowonions
stalkscelery
garliccloves
(750milliliter)bottledryredwine
cupredwinevinegar
wholecloves
teaspoonblackpeppercorns
ducklegs(about3pounds)
slicesprosciutto
shallots
plumtomatoes
tablespoonsbutter
tablespoonoil
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
poundlentils,pickedoverandrinsed
cupmincedfreshparsley

Chop2ofthecarrots,1onion,1stalkceleryandthegarlic.
Inamediumsaucepan,combinethewine,2tablespoonsofthevinegar,thechoppedcarrots,choppedonion,choppedcelery,garlic,clovesandpeppercornsandbring
toaboilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheatandletcoolslightly.
Placetheducklegsinasinglelayerinalargebakingdishandpourthewinemixtureoverthem.Covertightlyandmarinate,refrigerated,foratleast8hours,or
overnight.
Whenyouarereadytocooktheducklegs,preheattheovento300degrees.

Page201
Choptheremainingcarrots,onionandcelery.Mincetheprosciuttoandtheshallots.Peel,seedandchopthetomatoes.
Melt1tablespoonofthebutterinaheavyDutchovenovermediumlowheatwiththeprosciutto.Whentheprosciuttostartstosizzle,addthecarrots,onion,celery,
shallotsandtomatoesandcook,covered,untilthevegetablesbegintosoften,10to15minutes.
Whilethevegetablesarecooking,combinetheremaining1tablespoonbutterandtheoilinalargeskilletoverhighheat.Removetheducklegsfromthemarinade,
reservingthemarinade,andpatdrywithpapertowels.Sprinkletheducklegslightlywithsaltandpepperonbothsides.Whenthefatisveryhot,addtheducklegs
skinsidedownandbrownwelljustontheskinside,3to5minutes.RemovetheducklegsfromthepanandsetskinsideupontopofthevegetablesintheDutch
oven.
Pouroffthefatfromtheskilletandreturntohighheat.Strainthemarinadeintotheskilletandscrapethebottomtoloosenanybrownedbitsstickingtothepan.Pour
themarinadeovertheducklegsandvegetables.Placeasheetofaluminumfoilover,butnottouching,thesurfaceofthemeatsoitislooselycovered.
Coverthepotandbakeuntiltheducklegsareforktender,abouthours.Removetheducklegsfromthepotandsetthemaside,covered.
Skimoffasmuchfataspossiblefromthevegetables.Addthelentilstothepot,cover,returntotheovenandcookuntilthelentilsaresoft,about40minutes,adding
cupwaterifnecessarytokeepthelentilsmoistbutnotsoupy.
Whenthelentilsaresoft,addtheremaining2tablespoonsvinegarandtheducklegstothepot,coverandcookjustuntilheatedthrough,10to15minutes.Sprinkle
withtheparsleyandserve.
6servings

Page202
sausagesandribswithredwinebraisedlentils
Thisdishwouldbealmostasgoodmadewithbeans,butlentilshavetwoadvantages:theyrefasterandtheirflavorisbrilliantwiththetartsauce.Whydoescombining
porkindifferentformsadduptosomuchmorethanthesumoftheparts?Imnotsure,butIdoknowthatthemarriageofporksausageandporkribshereis
absolutelyheavenly.

2
1
12
2
2
4
2
1
1
1
2

tablespoonsoil,plusmoreifneeded
poundItaliansausage,cutinto2inchsections
poundsmeatycountrystyleporkribs
mediumcarrots,coarselychopped
mediumyellowonions,coarselychopped
garliccloves,minced
cupsdryredwine
cuppreparedtomatosauceortomatopuree
poundlentils,pickedoverandrinsed
bayleaf
tablespoonsredwinevinegar

Preheattheovento350degrees.
HeattheoilinaheavyDutchovenovermediumhighheat.Whenitisveryhot,addthesausagesandlightlybrownthemonallsides.Removethesausagesfromthepot
andsetasideonaplate.Addmoreoilifnecessary,addtheribsandturntobrownthemonallsides.Transfertheribstotheplatewiththesausagesandcovertokeep
warm.
Reducetheheattomedium,addthecarrotsandcookuntiltheybegintobrown,about5minutes.Addtheonionsandgarlicandcookuntiltheonionsaretender.Turn
theheattohigh,addthewineandcook,stirring,untilitisreducedtoasyrup.
Addthetomatosauceorpureeandthelentilsandstirwell,thenaddthebayleafandenoughwatertobarelycoverthelentils(about1cup).Placethesausagesand
ribsontopofthelentilsandbringtoaboil.

Page203
Looselycoverthemeatwithasheetofaluminumfoil,coverwithalidandplaceintheoven.Cookuntilthelentilssoftenandmostoftheliquidhasevaporated,about1
hour15minutes.
Uncoverthepot,addthevinegarandstirwelltodistributethemeat.Returntotheovenforanother10to15minutes,untilmostoftheliquidhasevaporatedandany
tasteofrawvinegarisgone.Removethebayleafandserve.
8to10servings

Page204

potatoes,wintersquashandotherstarchyvegetables
Usepotatoes,wintersquashandsweetpotatoesasthickeners:tothickensoups,asbindersforgratinsandinfreshpastas,suchasgnocchi.

Bakingpotatoeshavemuchmorestarchthanboilingpotatoes.Usethemwhenyouwanttothickensomethingorwantasmoothpuree.Useboilingpotatoeswhen
youwantpotatoesthatwillholdtheirshape.

Becarefulwhenpureeingpotatoes,ortheylldevelopasticky,glueytexture.Alwaysmashpotatoesbyhandorwithahandmixer.

Whenusingpotatoesasathickener,makesurethereisplentyofliquidtodispersethestarch.Ittakesonlyaboutpoundofcookedpotatotothicken2cupsof
liquid.Becarefulnottooverworkthedishwhenusingpotatoasathickener.Itsstarchgranulesareverydelicateandoverpureeingthemcanweakentheirthickening
ability.

Tomakethelightestmashedpotatoesandgnocchi,getridofasmuchexcessmoistureaspossible.Pureethepotatoeswhiletheyarestillhot(afoodmillorpotato
ricerisbest)andspreadthemouttoletthemcoolsothesteamwillevaporate.Reheatthepureeifmakingmashedpotatoes.

Becausesquashcontainslessstarchthanpotatoesdo,youcanpureeitinafoodprocessorwithoutdevelopingitsgluten.

Tovarytheflavorofastarchyvegetablethatyouwillbepureeing,changethewayyoucookit.Boilitforamildflavor.Steamitforamoreintenseflavor.Orroastit
forthemostintenseflavorofall.

Page205
creamofcauliflowersoup
Cauliflowerhasabitofstarch,butitstheadditionofabakingpotatothatthickensthissoup,withjustaminimalamountofsourcream.Begenerouswiththesalt
becauseoftheamountofstarchfromthepotato,whichtendstoflattenflavors,itwilltakemorethanyoumightthink.

1
4
1
2
1
1
4
2
1

largeleek
tablespoons(stick)butter
shallot,minced
cupsdrywhitewine
(1pound)cauliflower,trimmedandseparatedintosmallflorets
(pound)bakingpotato,peeledandcutintosmalldice
cupswater
cupschickenstock
tablespoonsDijonmustard,plusmoretotaste
cupsourcream
teaspoonssalt,plusmoretotaste
Freshlygratednutmeg

Trimtherootendandtoughgreenleavesfromtheleek.Quarteritlengthwise,leavingitattachedattherootend.Washwellunderrunningwater,pullingtheleaves
aparttorinseawayallthegrime.Slicetheleekthin.
Combinetheleekandbutterina4to6quartsouppot,coverandcookovermediumheat,stirringoccasionallytokeeptheleekfromsticking,for10minutes.Add
theshallotandcontinuecooking,covered,stirringoccasionally,untiltheleekisverysoft,about10moreminutes.
Increasetheheattomediumhighandaddthewine.Cook,stirring,untilthewinehasreducedbyabouthalf.Addthecauliflowerandpotatoandmixwell.Addthe
waterandstock,coverandbringtoaboil.Removethelid,reducetheheattoasimmerandcookgently

Page206
untilthepotatoandcauliflowerareverytender,about30minutes.Youshouldbeabletosmashthecauliflowerwithaspoon.
Transferhalfofthesouptoablenderandaddhalfofthemustard,sourcreamandsalt.Pulsetogrind,thenincreasethespeedtopuree.Transferthepureetoamedium
saucepanandrepeatwiththeremainingcauliflowermixture,mustard,sourcreamandsalt.
Bringthesoupbackjusttoasimmer(dontboil,orthesourcreamwillcurdle)andseasontotastewithadditionalsaltandmustard.Ladleintobowlsandsprinkle
nutmegovertop.
8servings

Page207
squashsoupwithmoroccanspices
Togetthesquashpulpyouneedforthissoup,cuta2to3poundwintersquashinhalfandscoopouttheseedsandveins.Thenroastthetwohalvesat450degrees,
cutsidedown,inabakingpanwithjustenoughliquidtocoverthebottom.Itlltakeabout45minutestoanhourtogetgoodandsoft.Oncethesquashhascooked
andcooled,scoopoutthepulpwithaspoon.

4
2

2
4
1
4
2

cinnamonstick,brokeninhalf
teaspooncorianderseeds
teaspooncuminseeds
wholecloves
cardamompods
teaspooncrushedredpepper
tablespoonsbutter
garliccloves,minced
tablespoonmincedginger
cupsroastedsquashpulp(seeabove)
cupswater
Salt
cupplus2tablespoonsyogurt
Freshlygratednutmegor
NewMexicanredchilepowder

Toastthecinnamon,coriander,cumin,cloves,cardamomandredpepperinasmalldryskilletovermediumheatuntilfragrantandjustbeginningtodarken,3to5
minutesstirtokeepthespicesfromscorching.Cool,thengrindthespicestoapowderinacoffeegrinderorminiblender.
Combinethebutter,garlicandgingerinalargesouppotandcookovermediumheat,stirring,untilthegarlicissoftandtranslucent,about3minutes.Addthespice
mixtureandstirtocombinewell.Addthesquashpulpandwater,stirtocombinewellandcookovermediumheatuntilheatedthrough,10to15minutes.

Page208
Pureethesoupinbatchesinablender.Addsalttotasteandstirincupoftheyogurt.
Dividethesoupequallyamong6soupbowls.Garnisheachbowlwith1tablespoonyogurtandthenutmegorchilepowder.Serveimmediately.
6servings

Page209
potatogratin
Thisgratin,whichcamefromanideaofRichardOlneys,isalittledifferentfrommost.Thepotatoesareshreddedratherthanslicedbeforecooking,whichdoestwo
things:speedsuptheprocess,becausethepotatoesareinsmallerpieces,andfreesmorestarchtocreateafirmerset.

2
3

1
1
1
4

poundsboilingpotatoes,peeled
cupsmilk
Freshlygratednutmeg
Salt
garlicclove
largeegg
cupsfreshlygratedGruyreorParmigianoReggianocheese
tablespoons(stick)butter

Shredthepotatoesusingthelargestbladeonafoodprocessor,orgratethemonthecoarseholesofagrater,beingcarefultokeepthestripsaslongaspossible.As
thepotatoesaregrated,placetheminabowlofcoldwater.
Drainthepotatoesandpatdrywithakitchentowel.Combinethepotatoesandmilkinalargesaucepanandplaceovermediumheat.Addagratingofnutmegandsalt
totaste,bringtoagentlesimmerandcookuntilthepotatoesarejusttender,10to15minutes,dependingonthethicknessofthecut.Stiroccasionally,beingvery
carefulnottobreakthepotatostrandsandnottoletthemixtureboilorscorch.Drainthepotatoesinacolanderorastrainerplacedoveralargebowltocatchthe
milk.
Preheattheovento400degrees.
Cutthegarliccloveinhalfandrubtheinsideofalargegratindishwiththecutsides.Setthedishaside.
Beattheeggandhalfofthecheeseandstiritintothehotmilk.Seasontotastewithsalt.

Page210
Butterthegratindishgenerouslyandarrangethecookedpotatoesinauniformlythicklayerinthedish.Pourthemilkmixtureoverthepotatoes.Sprinkletheremaining
cheeseoverthetop.Cuttheremainingbutterintothinslicesanddotoverthetop.
Bakeuntilthetopisbubblingandbrowned,about20minutes.Serveimmediately.
6servings

Page211
potatognocchi
Potatoesarestarch,sowhynotmakepastawiththem?Therearentanyspecialtrickstomakinggnocchiyoujustneedtherighttouchwhenyourekneadingthe
potatoesandtheflour.Youwanttoaddenoughflourforthedoughtoholdtogetherbutnotsomuchthatitbecomesheavy.

1
11
4
2

poundsbakingpotatoes,unpeeled
cupsallpurposeflour
tablespoons(stick)butter
sprigsfreshrosemary
cupfreshlygratedParmigianoReggianocheese

Steamthepotatoesuntilaknifeslipseasilyintothecenter,40to45minutes.Whilethepotatoesarestillquitehot,scrapeofftheirpeels,holdingtheminateatoweland
scrapingwiththebackofaparingknife.Usingapotatoricer,ricethepotatoesontoasheetofplasticwrap.Letcoolcompletely.
Dumpthericedpotatoesontoaworksurfacesprinkledwithcupoftheflour.Sprinkletocupmoreflouroverthetopandgatherthepotatoesandflourtogether
intoaroughmass.Kneadgently,addingmoreflourasnecessary,untilthesurfaceissmooth,theinteriorfeelselasticandanycracksonthesurfacehaverounded
edges,5to10minutes.
Cutoffapieceofthedoughandrollitintoaropetoinchindiameter.Cuttheropeintoinchpiecesandtosstheminamixingbowlwithcupmoreflour.
Shapethegnocchi,ifdesired,byindentingeachonewithyourfingerand/orridgingitwiththetinesofafork.Repeatwiththeremainingdough.
Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoaboil.Meanwhile,meltthebutterinasmallsaucepanwiththerosemarysprigs.Continuetoheatovermediumlowheatuntilthe
gnocchiarereadydonotletthebuttercolor.

Page212
Whenthewaterhascometoarapidboil,addthegnocchiandcookuntiltheyfloattothetop,30to45seconds.Drainandplaceinaservingbowl.
Removetherosemarysprigsfromthebutteranddrizzlethebutteroverthegnocchi.Tosslightly,anddustwiththecheese.Serveimmediately.
6servings

Page213
butternutsquashpuree
withbalsamicvinegar
Thebalsamicvinegarcutstheluxuriousnessofthepureewhilepointingupitssweetness.

2
4
3
2
1

tablespoonsmincedshallots
tablespoons(stick)butter
tablespoonsbalsamicvinegar
cupsroastedbutternutsquashpulp(seepage207)
teaspoonsalt
Freshlygratednutmeg

Cooktheshallotsin1tablespoonofthebutterinalargesaucepanovermediumheatuntiltheysoften,3to5minutes.Addthevinegar,increasetheheattohighand
cookuntilthevinegarisreducedtoasyrup,another3to5minutes.
Addthesquashpulpandsaltandstirtocombine.Reducetheheattolowandcookuntilthesquashisheatedthrough,about5minutes.Cuttheremaining3
tablespoonsbutterintosmallcubesandaddthemtothesquash,beatingvigorouslytomakeasmoothpuree.Serveimmediately,dustedwithnutmeg.
4servings

Page214
gratinofsweetpotatoesandbourbon
Mostvegetablegratinsneedtobeboundwithawhitesauce.Thisisnottrueofgratinsmadefromstarchyvegetables,whichwillreleaseenoughstarchtothickenthe
liquidaroundthem.Herethesweetpotatoesarebakedfirsttoconcentratetheirsweetnessandthencookedasecondtimewithjustenoughcreamtomellowthemout.
Thisdishisanidealaccompanimenttoroastpoultryorpork.

3
4
1
1

poundsdarkorangesweetpotatoes
tablespoons(stick)butter,plusbutterforthebakingdish
Salt
cupheavy(whipping)cream
tablespoonbourbon
Freshlygratednutmeg

Preheattheovento350degrees.
Roastthepotatoesonabakingsheetintheovenuntiltheyareeasilypiercedwithaknife,about45minutes.Removethemfromtheovenandletcool.(Thepotatoes
canberoastedupto2daysinadvanceandrefrigerated.)Leavetheovenon.
Butteragratindishorbakingdish.
Peelthepotatoesandcutthemintoinchthickslices.Arrangetheslicesinasinglelayer,overlappingthem.Seasontotastewithsalt.
Inasmallsaucepanovermediumheat,reducethecreambyonethird.Addthebourbonandwhiskwell.
Pourthecreamoverthepotatoes.Dustthepotatoesverylightlywithnutmeganddotwiththebutter.Bakeuntilbrownedandpuffy,about30minutes.Servehot.
6servings

Page215
pureeofwintersquashandapples
Therearemanydifferentvarietiesofwintersquash,ranginginflavorfromgreenandvegetaltosweetandnuttyandintexturefromstringytosmooth.Ilikesmooth,
sweet,nuttysquashesforthisdish,suchasbutternutandacorn.

4
4
1

cupsroastedsquashpulp(seepage207)
tablespoons(stick)butter
Salt
tartgreenapple,suchasGrannySmith,peeled,coredandcoarselychopped

Combinethesquashpulpandbutterinafoodprocessorandpureeuntilsmooth.Seasontotastewithsalt.Addtheappleandpulsejusttofinelymincetheappleinto
thepuree.
Spoonintoawarmedservingbowlandserveimmediately.
4servings

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five:
meatandheat
Roastingmeatisoneofthemostelementalactsofcooking.Thereisnothingsimpler,yetatthesametimethereislittlethatismorecomplex,bothintermsofsymbolism
andchemistry.WeroastmeatsforallourmostimportantholidaysturkeyforThanksgiving,primeribforChristmas,legoflambforEaster.Roastchickenisthe
hallmarkofsimplehomecooking.Ononelevel,nothingcouldbeeasier:Seasonthemeatcookituntilitsdone.Cavemencoulddoit.Itssoeasywerarelygivea
secondthoughttowhatisactuallyhappeningduringroasting.Meatis,afterall,justmuscleor,evenmoreessentially,protein.Yetgoodcooksknowthateverytypeof
meatcooksalittledifferently.Porkisdifferentfrombeef,whichisdifferentfromchicken,whichiscertainlydifferentfromfish.Itsevenmorecomplexthanthat:
differentmusclesfromthesameanimalcanbedramaticallydifferent,andevendifferentcutsfromthesamemusclecanvarytremendously.And,ofcourse,roastingis
onlyonewayofcookingmeat.
Letsbeginatthemostbasiclevel:whenwesaymeat,whatwemeanisthemuscleofananimal,abirdorafish.Forthemostpart,justlikevirtuallyeverythingelsewe
cook,muscleismadeupofwaterdependingontheanimalandmuscle,about75percentwater.Another5

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percentisvariousminorconstituents:fat,carbohydratesandminerals.Theremaining20percentthedefining20percentisprotein.Proteins,ofwhichthereare
manydifferentkinds,aremadeupofaminoacidsjoinedbychemicalbonds.Theycomeintwoforms:globularandfibrous.Havingreadthat,youcannowforgetit.
Globularproteinsarefoundinbloodandineggwhites.Whenweretalkingaboutcookingmeat,werereallyonlyinterestedinthefibrousform,andthechemical
makeupisonlyofborderlineinterest.Besides,thetwobehavesimilarlyinthekitchenanyway.
Allyoureallyneedtorememberaboutproteininmeatisthatitismadeupoffibersactually,bundlesoffibers.Or,evenmoreaccurately,bundlesofbundlesoffibers.
Pictureatelephonecordwithallthosebrightlycoloredindividualwiresboundupintoonebigone.Nowpictureatelephonecable,madeupofbundlesofcords.Only
itsevenmorecomplexthanthat.Thinkofanindividualproteinstrandasbeingshapedlikeawire.Nowcoilthatwirelikeaspringandfoldthatspringbackontoitself
intoanellipse.Thatisthemostbasicstructureofprotein.Nowtakethatfiberstructureandbundleitwithabunchofothersjustlikeit.Takethatbundleandbundleit
againwithevenmoregroupsoffibers.Thatisamuscle.Youcanseethislaststageincertainrawcutsofmeat,likearoundsteak.Trypullingonitatbothendsandit
willcomeapart.Thatsbecausewhatwecallaroundsteakisactuallymadeupofseveraldifferentmusclesdependingonthebutcher,itmayincludepartsofthe
rectusfemoris,thevastusintermedius,thevastuslateralis,thevastusmedialis,therectusfemoris,thesemitendinosusandthesemimembranosus,inadditiontothetwo
bigmuscles,theadductorandthebicepsfemoris.Takeoneofthosemusclesandcookit,thencutitopen.Whatyoureseeingisthenextsmallestdivisionwhat
lookslikeaforestoftightlygroupedfibers.Withoutamicroscope,youcantseethesmallestdivisionthespringcoiledintotheellipse.Theonlyreasonyoucansee
anyofthem,thereasonmeatdoesntappearto

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beasmoothsheet,isbecauseeachbundleoffibers,fromthesmallesttothelargest,iswrappedinathinsheetofconnectivetissue.Justliketheplasticcoatingthat
wrapsboththewiresinourtelephonecordandthecorditself.
Tobegintounderstandwhathappenswhenmeatisheated,letsconcentratefirstontheseproteinfibers.Applyheat,andthefirstthingthathappensisthatthebonds
whichholdthoseellipsesinshapeweakenandtheproteinsbegintorelaxandstraightenoutsotheyresemblethosecoiledsprings.Thisprocessbeginsatabout130
degrees.Astheyunwind,theybumpintoeachotherweretalkingaboutaverylimitedamountofspacehere,afterall.Whentheybumpintoeachother,theylink
up,bondingagain.Thisprocessboththerelaxingofshape(denaturing)andthesimultaneouslinkingup(coagulation)canbecausedbyasurprisinglywidevariety
ofthingsbesidesheat.Essentially,itcanbetriggeredbyanythingthatdisruptstherelativelyfragilebondsthatholdtheproteininitstightlywoundoriginalshape.
Physicalactivitycandoit(muchthesamethinghappenswhenyoubeateggwhites).Aciditywilldothesamething(thisistheheatlesscookinginceviche).Even
prolongedexposuretooxygencandoit(thinkabouthowmeatleftoutofthewrapperfortoolongdevelopsahardskin).Onemightalmostsayitsinthenatureof
proteinstolinkup.Proteinstrandsfrommeatthathasbeenchoppedevenfinelygroundwillcontinuetoformbondsduringcooking.Thatswhyhamburgers
dontfallapartonthegrill,whysausagesappeartocomefromasinglepieceofmeatandwhyasliceofmeatloaforptdoesntcrumbleintoapileofitsparts.
Granted,sometimesthisstructureisachievedwiththeassistanceofacoupleofbeateneggs,butthosearejustaddingmorepotentialproteinlinkagestothemix.
Asthesemusclefiberslinkup,theyshrinkandbecomefirmer,butnotallatthesametime.Evernoticehowaporkloinroastedinahotovenappearstobulgewhenits
cooking?Itsbe

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causetheoutside,whichisheatedfirst,hasshrunk,whiletheinsidehasnt.Asthefibersshrink,theybegintosqueezeoutwater.Forawhile,thisisntthatnoticeable,
becauseatthesametimethatthewaterisbeingsqueezedout,waterfromwithintheproteincellsisbeingsqueezedouttooandsoisreplacingtheotherwater.
Somewherebetween180and175degrees,thelossesbegintooutstriptheconversions.Asthecookingcontinues,thefibersshrinkmoreandmoreandbecomeharder
andharder.Eventually,theywillcrack.Thisiswhyovercookedmeathasagrainy,crumblytexture.
Proteinisnttheonlythingthatchangesduringcooking.Theconnectivetissuethatwrapsthefiberschangestoo.Whenraw,thecollagenthatformstheconnective
tissueistoughandstringy.Thoughittooisaprotein,itisboundintoadifferentshapefrommuscleprotein,andthatchangesitstexture.Butheat,specificallymoistheat,
breaksupthosebondsandsoftensthecollagenintoakindofgelatin.Thishappensbetween150and175degrees,butitsnotquiteassimpleasthat.Thereareother
variablesthataffecttheprocessaswell.Inadditiontothetemperatureitself,theamountoftimethemeatisheldatthattemperaturewillaffecthowmuchofthecollagen
istenderized(thelongeritisheld,themorecollagenwillbesoftened).Sowilltheacidityoralkalinityofanyliquidinwhichitscooked(areallyconcentratedstockis
slightlyalkaline,andmeatcookedinitwillbemoretenderthanmeatcookedinplainwater).Sowilltheageoftheanimal.Theconnectivetissueofveryyounganimals
softensatlowertemperaturesthanthatofolderanimals(thisisonereasonforthepopularityofvealstews).Whilestewsandbraisesmoistcookingtechniques
arebestforcutsofmeatwithlotsofcollagen,thissofteningcanalsohappenwithoutaddedliquid,thankstothewatercontainedinthemeatitself.Thatsthesecret
behindrealpitbarbecueslongcookingoveralowfire.Thistenderizingdoesnthappenwithallkindsofconnectivetissue.Thereally

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tough,rubbery,yellowishtissuethatwecommonlycallgristleisslightlydifferentandisunaffectedbyheat.Theonlysolutionistocutitout.
Otherpartsofmeatchangewithheattoo:fat,forexample.Fatoccursnaturallyinallmeats,sometimesontheoutsideofthemuscle,sometimesontheinside.The
hardest,whitestfatcanbefoundsurroundingthevitalorgans,especiallythekidneys.Thesoftestfatisfoundwithinthemuscles,betweenthefibers.Thisiswhatwecall
marbling.Whenthisfatmelts,itlubricatestheproteinfibers,makingthemseemmoretenderandcontributingtothattexturewecalljuiciness.Ofparticularinterestto
cooks,thecolorofthewaterwithinthemeatchangestoo.Thoughtheredmeatjuicesarefrequentlymistakenforblood,inrealitytheyaresimplywaterysolutionsfrom
withintheproteincellsandfibers.Realbloodisremovedfromtheveinsoftheanimalattheslaughterhouse.Thesewaterysolutionslooklikebloodbecausethey
containhemoglobinandmyoglobin,whicharealsocomponentsofblood.Oneveryinterestingqualityhemoglobinandmyoglobinshareisthattheychangecolorwhen
heated.Atroomtemperature,theyarebrightred.Between140and150degrees,theyturngrayorbrown.Thatisjustaboutthesametemperatureatwhichthe
collagenwillhavebeenfullyconverted,anditisjustbelowthetemperaturerangeatwhichmeatbeginstolosemoisture.Itisalsothetemperaturerangethatwecall
mediumraretomediuminbeef.(Hemoglobinandmyoglobinalsoturncolorwhenexposedtooxygenforverylong.Whenyoubuymeat,itshouldbebrightlycolored,
nomatterwhatanimalitsfrom.)
Uptothispoint,almosteverythingthathasbeensaidappliesequallytoeverykindofmeat,howeveritiscookedgrilledfish,boiledchicken,roastbeef.Butitis
obviousthattherearemajordifferencesamongdifferentkindsofmeat,amongdifferentcutsfromthesamespeciesandamongmethodsofcooking.Themost
fundamentaldifferencesareamongthevariousspecies.Theyare

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allprotein,butthereisadifferencebetweenafishandafowl,tosaynothingofalambandacow.
Thoughthereareimportantdifferencesbasedonflavor,whichhavetodowiththetypesofchemicalcomponentsthatmakeupthemeat,wellfocusfirstonstructure.
Theflavordifferencebetweenbeefandswordfishiseasytodiscern,butthewaytheirfleshisputtogetherwhichhasjustasmuchimpactonhowtheyareprepared
mightbelessobvious.Themeatoflandbasedanimalsishighinconnectivetissueittakesalotofmuscletoovercomegravityandstanduprightbutfish,
whichliveinanearlygravityfreeenvironment,haveverylittleconnectivetissue.Thatiswhytherearenotoughpiecesoffish.Althoughtherearedishescalledfish
stews,theyreusuallycookedinlessthanhalfanhour.Thatsalsowhyfishdriesoutveryquicklywhencookedthereisverylittlecollagentomeltandbastethe
meat.Anotherreasonisthatfatinfishisusuallylocatedinspecificareasratherthanthroughoutthemuscle(usuallyjustundertheskin).Furthermore,sinceafishs
movementisbasicallyrestrictedtoasidetosidewavingofthetail,themusclestructureismuchdifferentfromthatofanimals,consistingofsheetsofveryshortmuscle
fibersseparatedbyathinwrapofcollagen.Evenfishdiffer,though:comparetheflakymusclestructureofalazybottomfeederlikesolewiththemeatytextureofa
speedbombliketuna.
Asmanydismayedshopperswillattest,fishdiffersfrommeatinoneotherimportantway:thespeedwithwhichitchangesafteritsbeencaught.Allmeatschange,of
course.Chemicalchangeswithinthemusclesresultfirstinrigormortisastiffeningofthemusclesandtheninagradualrelaxation.Inbeef,thisprocesscantake
solongthatitmaybeweeksbeforethemeatbecomesinedible(indeed,agedbeefisusuallyhungforasmuchasamonth).Withfish,theprocesshappenswithina
matterofdays.Thatswhygoodcookslookforfishwithbulgingeyesandfirmfleshthemusculardeteriorationfollowingrigormortishasntyetadvancedveryfar.
Fisharealsothemostproblematic

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meatintermsofagebecausetheycomefromabacteriarichenvironment,andspoilageprogressesveryrapidly.Othermeatsalsovaryintheirageabilitypork,for
example,shouldalwaysbefresh,becausethechemicalmakeupofitsfatmakesitextremelypronetorancidity.
Differenttypesofmeattastedifferent,thoughperhapsnotasmuchasyoumightthink.Infact,whilethereisamarkeddifferenceinflavorbetweenfattyandleanmeat
fromthesamespecies,scientistshavefoundthatthepureleanrawproteinofdifferentmammalstastesremarkablysimilar.Evenwhalemeatisonlyalittledifferentfrom
beefpresumablybecauseofthechemicalremnantsofthecrustaceansonwhichwhalesfeed(itmightbeinterestingtofeedacownothingbutshrimpandseewhat
happens).Sowheredoestheflavordifferencecomefrom?Inmostcases,itisthefatthatcarriestheflavor,whetheritisdistributedonthesurfaceofthemeator
betweenthefibers.
Thatisnottheonlyreasontopraisefat.Oneofthebestthingswecansayaboutmeatisthatitisjuicy.Butwhatexactlydoesthatmean?Onthesurface,juiciness
wouldseemtorefertotheamountofmoistureapieceofmeatcontains.Itsnotthatsimple,though.Infact,therearetwotypesofjuiciness.Onedoesinfactreferto
themeatswaterholdingcapabilities(intheprosaiclanguageofscientists).Thesecond,andmoreimportant,canbedescribedbestasperceivedjuiciness,andit
comesnotfromthemeatbeingchewed,butfromyou,thechewer.Whenyourmouthfillswithjuicesasyoureeatingagreatpieceofmeat,agoodpercentageofthe
moisturecomesfromyourownsaliva.Andwhatpromptssaliva?Asanyonewhohassatatatableloadedwithgoodfoodcanattest,manythings,includingsightand
smell.Textureplaysaparttooinfact,sodoesalmostanythingthatweassociatewiththatvagueconceptofdeliciousnessincludingsetting.Butthemost
importantfactorininspiringsalivation(and,hence,juiciness)isfat.

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Whilethemostheavilyworkedmusclesarethosewiththemostconnectivetissue,theyaregenerallyalsotheoneswiththemostintramuscularfat.Thecombinationof
thetwomeansthatcutstakenfromthemhavewonderfulflavorbutarefulloftough,stringyfibers(atthesametime,itexplainswhytenderfiletsmignonscutlikebutter
butdontreallytastelikemuch).Wevelearnedhowtosolvethetoughnessproblem.Thoseflavorful,heavilyworkedpiecesofmeataresometimesreferredtoas
braisingcuts.Cookedforalongtimeovermoderateheatwithmoisturepresent,allthatstringyconnectivetissueturnsmoistandjellied.Thefatmeltsthroughthe
meat,andyouwindupwithanintenselymeatystew.(Asageneralruleofthumb,cattlemensay,thelowertheanimalpartistotheground,thetougheritwillbe.)Ever
wonderwhysomanygoodcooksprefermeatcookedonthebone,asopposedtofilleted?Itsthesamethingconnectivetissuefastensthemusclestothe
skeleton.Whenmeatiscutfromthebone,itlosesalotofflavorfulconnectivetissue.
Thisdifferencebetweenworkedmusclesandrestingmusclesistrueformorethanjustbeefandotherhoofedanimals,thoughtheyarethemostextremeexamples.It
alsoexplainsthewhiteanddarkmeatinchicken.Chickensandturkeyscantflywell.Theirbreastmeatisthereforshowonlyitistheirlegsthatgettheworkout.In
thecaseofthesebirds,though,thedifferencedoesntshowupsomuchinconnectivetissue(poultryisgenerallyextremelyhighinconnectivetissuethroughoutitsbody
thatsonereasonitsusuallycookedtoahighertemperaturethanothertypesofmeat).Rather,youcanseeitinthedistributionofouroldfriendmyoglobin,which
servestostoreoxygenfromtheblood.Becausethelegsareworkedsomuchmorethanthebreasts,thereisfarmoreoxygengoingtothem,whichgivesthemadarker
color.
Morethanjustdeterminingtenderness,consideringallofthisinformationwilltellyouhowapieceofmeatshouldbecookedbest:towhattemperatureandbywhat
method.Rememberread

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ingaboutthetemperatureatwhichconnectivetissuemelts?Thatsthekeytomuchofmeatcooking.Cutsthatarelowinconnectivetissueagain,thosethatdoless
work,suchasthesirloin(whichcomesfromthemusclethatrunsrightalongthespine)willhaveapleasingtexturewhencookedtoverylowtemperaturesornot
cookedatall.Cutsthatareharderworking,suchasshanks,necksandtails,mustbecookedmoretoensurethatthestringybitsaregone.
Butthereismoretotemperaturethantenderness.Asmeatisheated,complexchemicalreactionsaresetinmotion.Waterwithinthecellsheatsandexpands,andcell
wallsburst,mixingaminoacidsandotherflavorgivingsubstances,withtheresultthatthetasteofthemeatchanges.Undercookedmeatisactuallymoredelicatein
flavorblanderthanmeatthathasbeencookedlonger.Meatis,afterall,75percentwater.Heatisnecessarytodeveloptheflavorsthatweprefer.Apieceof
porktenderloinissotenderthatitcould,theoretically,beeatenraw.Butthetasteofundercookedporkhasanunpleasantedge,whichfoodscientistsdescribeas
serumy.Itisntuntilporkiscookedtoaround160degreesthattheround,deliciousflavorsthatwethinkofasporkyemerge.Thesameistruetoacertainextentof
lamb,thoughinAmericawehavebecomeaccustomedtoeatingourredmeatsrarerthanpeopledoinmanyothercountries(rareorevenmediumrarelambis
consideredanabominationinmuchoftheMediterraneanoutsideoffancyrestaurants,thatis).Itcanbearevelationforrarelambloverstotasteacuteven
somethingastenderasarackthathasbeencookedalittlefurtherthannormal,say,to140degrees.Thesamecutofbeef,thesirloin,shouldbecookedtoaslightly
lowertemperature:between130and140degreesisthebestcompromiseforflavor,textureandjuiciness.Thisiscertainlynottosaythatmeattastesbetterthemoreit
iscooked.Overcookedmeatisnoonesideaofpleasure.First,itistastelessthefathasbeenrenderedintothepan,andallthejuiceshavebeensqueezedout.
Thereisthetexture

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thingtooallthoseproteinstrandshavecracked,leavingbehindcrumbly,grainymeat.
Howdoyouknowwhenmeatisdone?Thesurestwayiswithathermometer,preferablyoneofthoseinstantreadones.Meatthermometersthatstayintheroastwhile
itiscookingarenotoriouslyunreliable.However,becauseofthesephysicalchangeswevebeentalkingabout,youcanlearntojudgedonenessprettywellwithouta
thermometerinsomecases,youcandoevenbetter.Asteak,forexample,istoothintomeasureaccuratelywithathermometer.Useyourfingers:pressthecenter
ofthesteakandseehowfirmitis.Whatyoureactuallydoingisfeelinghowcoagulated,orsetup,theproteinstrandsare.Heresagoodcomparison:letyourhand
hangloosely,andpinchthemusclebetweenyourthumbandforefinger.Thatisapproximatelymediumrare.Formaloosefistanddothesamething.Themusclehas
flexedandisslightlyfirmer.Thatsmedium.Finally,tightenthefistandtryitagain.Thatswelldone.Anddontforgethemoglobin.Cutasliceinthecenterofthesteak
andcheckthecolorofthemeat.Rememberwhenweweretalkingabouthowthecolorofthejuiceschangeswhenheated?Thisisagradualprocessitdoesnthappen
allatonce.Meatcookedto120degrees(rare)willberedderthanmeatcookedto140degrees(medium).Payattention.
Withpoultry,youcanalsotestbymakingasmallcutatthehipandjudgingthecolorofthejuicesthatrunout.Withchicken,wewantthetemperaturetobeup
past160degreestomakesurealltheconnectivetissuehassoftened.Atthatpoint,thejuiceswillrunclearoralittlegolden.Youllalsoknowthebirdisdoneif,when
yougraspandtwistthedrumstick,itmovesquiteeasilythesoftenedconnectivetissueisnolongerholdingitsofirmlyinplace.Remember,though,thatchicken
cooksunevenlybecauseofitsshape.Thebreast,whichisexposedontopasitroasts,cooksmorequicklythanthehip,whichisinsideandonthebottom.Becausethe
hipisdarkmeatandthebreastwhite,the

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problemisexaggerated.Also,beawarethatbecauseofmodernpoultryraisingpractices,youmightfindchickenthatisstillredatthebonedespitebeingthoroughly
cooked.Thisisbecausebirdsareslaughteredmuchyoungerthanbeforesoyoung,infact,thattheirboneshavenotfinishedbuildingupcalcium.Thatredisblood
leakingfromtheboneanddoesnotmeanthemeatisunderdone.
Fishisalittletroublesome,bothbecauseitissothinandbecauseitcookssoquickly.Theoldruleusedtobetocookfishuntilitflaked(actually,thatsthepointwhen
thelastoftheconnectivetissuebetweenthemusclestrandshassoftened).Todaystasteisforfishthatsalittlemoister.Butyoucanstillusetheknifetest:prodthefish
withthetipofaknifeifitisjustbeginningtoflake,itsdone.
Inallcases,rememberthatjustbecauseyouveremovedsomethingfromtheheatdoesntmeanithasfinishedcooking.Dependingonthesizeofthepieceofmeatand
thetemperatureatwhichitwascooked,itcangainasmuchasanother10degreesbecauseoftheheatstoredintheouterpartsofthemeat.Biggerpiecesgainmore
becausetheyretainmoreheat.Piecesthathavecookedathighertemperatureswillalsogainmore,becausethereismoreheatretained.Thisisoftencalledthepush,
orcarryovercooking,andmostofittakesplacewithin10minutesorsoofthemeatbeingremovedfromdirectheat.Thatfinalburstofcookingisonereasonthatitis
agoodideatoletmeatsit,looselyblanketedinaluminumfoil,foralittlewhilebeforecarving.Thereisanotherreasontoo.Duringthecookingprocess,thetighteningof
theproteindrivessomeofthejuicesfromtheouteredgesofthemeatdeepintotheinterior.A10minuterestisenoughtimeforthosejuicestoberedistributedevenly
throughoutthemeat.
Obviously,thetemperatureatwhichyoucookmeathasagreateffectonthefinisheddish.Cooksarguetherelativemeritsofhighheatandlowheatroasting,butdont
befooled:thereisnosinglecorrectanswer.Itdependsonthekindofmeat,itssizeand

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whatyouwantittotastelike.Rememberthatittakestimeforheattotransferfromtheairtothemeatandthenfromtheoutsideofthemeattotheinterior.Cookingata
hightemperaturewillgiveaverywiderangeofdonenesses.Theoutsideofthemeatwillbethoroughlybrownedwhiletheinsidemaystillbequiterare.Thesamecutof
meatcookedatalowtemperaturemightnotbeaswellbrownedontheoutside,buttheinteriorwillbemorecooked.Agoodexampleisprimerib.Itwillcomeout
verydifferentwhencookedat450degreesthanwhencookedat300degrees.At450degrees,theexteriorwillbebrownedandcrustywhiletheinteriorwillberare,
perhapsevenbarelyfirmed.Cookthesamepieceat300degrees,andbythetimetheexteriorbrowns,theinteriorwillbeclosertomedium.Whichisbetter?Youre
thecookyoudecide.
Remember,though,thatitstheinteriortemperatureyourethinkingabout.Thelargerthecutofmeat,thelongeritwilltaketheheattopenetratetothecenter,hence
thelowertheroastingtemperatureshouldbetoavoidscorchingtheoutside.Thesameistrueforbraisingthemoremuscularcuts.Becauseofthehigherdesiredinterior
temperature(tofullysoftenalltheconnectivetissues),youshouldusealowercookingtemperature,lesttheexteriorpartofthemeatdryoutbeforetheinteriorisdone.
Thatsonemainreasonstewsarecookedatasimmer(roughly190to200degrees)ratherthanaboil(212degrees).Thereisacuriousexceptiontothisrule,
however,thoughnoonecanreallyexplainhowitworks.Meatcanalsobebraisedathightemperatures400degreesandabove.Ittakesatightlysealed,veryheavy
panandcarefulattention,andtheresultsaremarkedlydifferentfromlowheatbraises.Meatbraisedathighheatwillhaveanalmostbutterytextureandwillfallapartin
chunks,ratherthanshreddingthewaymostbraisesdo.Thereasonthatthishappensisunclear,butthepredominanttheoryisthatthehighheatdeactivatestheenzymes
whichhelptoturnmeatcrumblywhenitiscookedtoahightemperature.

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Anotherpartofyourdecisionaboutwhattemperaturetochoosewillbebasedonhowwellyoulikeyourmeatbrowned.Browningisakeyfactorintheflavorof
cookedmeats.Althoughbrowningbearssomeresemblancetobothburningandcaramelization,itsneither.Itsactuallymorecloselyrelatedtowhathappenswhen
breadbakesthantoanythingelse(thoughsomecaramelizationisoccurring,andofcoursemeatcookedfortoolongwilldefinitelyburn).Thebrowningoftheexterior
ofmeatandthecrustofbreadarebothattributedtosomethingcalledtheMaillardreaction,namedafterthenineteenthcenturyFrenchscientistLouisCamilleMaillard.
Hefoundoutthatthebrownofroastedmeatandthebrownofthecrustofbreadarebothduetoachemicalreactionthatoccurswhenyouheataminoacidsandsugars
(thoughitdoesntseemlikeit,meatsdocontainnaturalsugars).Dependingonthetypeofprotein,thetypeofsugarsandthetemperaturetowhichtheyreheated,you
getawiderangeofsmellsandflavors.Itsnotimportanttorememberwhichaminoacidsandwhichsugarsresultinwhicharomas.Whatisimportanttorememberis
thattheyoccurwithinaspecificrangeoftemperaturesandthattheydontevenbegintohappenuntilaround185to195degreesanddontreallybecomenoticeable
untilabove300degrees.Thatexplainswhymeatcookedwithmoisturewillneverbrown.Becausewaterboilsat212degrees,thetemperatureofthesurfaceofthe
meatwontgethotenough.Ifyouwantthatdeepbrownedmeatflavorinasteworbraise,youhavetobrownthemeatbeforeaddinganyliquid(notallstewsare
brownedinFrenchcooking,thereisawholefamilyofwhitestews,calledblanquettes,thatareappreciatedfortheirdelicateflavors).Furthermore,thosetemperatures
alsoexplainwhyyoushouldalwaysdrythesurfaceofmeatbeforeyoubegincookingititwontstartbrowninguntilallthesurfacemoisturehasevaporatedinto
steam,whichcouldcookthesurfaceinawayyoudontwant.Thereisevenanextremistsectofroasterswhoinsistthatitisimpossibletoroastadequatelyinamodern
ovenbecause

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thespaceissosmallthatitcreatesanartificiallymoistenvironment.Realroasting,theyinsist,canbedoneonlyonanopenspit.
Howlongdoesittakeformeattocook?Itdependsonseveralvariables.Thetypeofmeatisone:chickenandporkaredenserthanlambandbeefandtakelonger.
Obviously,thecookingtemperatureisanother.Althoughitsnotsomethingmanypeoplethinkmuchabout,theshapeofthemeatisimportanttoo:flatpiecescook
fasterthancylindricalpieces,andhollowrounds,suchasanunstuffedchicken,cookfasterthansolidrounds,suchasastuffedchicken.Thegeometrygetsevenmore
confusingwhenyoutakesizeintoconsideration.Theamountoftimeittakesforthecenterofapieceofmeattoreachacertaintemperatureincreasesproportionately
muchmorerapidlythanthethicknessofthemeat.Asteakthatisthesameshapeasanotheronebuttwiceasthickcantakefourtimesaslongtocooktothesame
interiortemperature.Anotherfactorthatisfrequentlyoverlookedisthebeginningtemperatureofthemeat.Meattakendirectlyfromtherefrigeratorwilltakelongerto
cooktothesamedegreeofdonenessthanmeatthathasfirstwarmedtoroomtemperature.Forallthesereasons,itisdangeroustomakeblanketstatementsabout
howmanyminutesperpoundtoallow.Thoughsomehomeeconomistsrecommend20to25minutesperpoundforaroastturkey,ittakesonlyalittlemathtorealize
thatwitha20poundbird,youretalkingaboutapotentialtimedifferenceofmorethanhours.
Upuntilnow,wevebeentalkingaboutcookingmeatbyitself.Ofcourse,thatrarelyhappensinreallife.Evenatitssimplest,meatusuallycomeswithaseasoning,
evenifthatseasoningisonlysaltandpepper(andwithreallygoodmeat,thatsactuallyquiteenough).Butsometimesyouwanttoaddmore.Thatswheremarinades
comein.Somecooksseemtothinkoftheartofmeatcookeryasmostlyconsistingofputtingtogetheraflavorfulmarinade.Garlic,vinegar,oliveoil,rosemary...it
sometimescan

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seemclosertoaromatherapythantocooking.And,actually,theresalotoftruthtothat.Thefactis,mostmarinadesareofonlylimiteduse,nomatterhowmuchfun
youmayhaveputtingthemtogether.Firstofall,marinadeshavelittle,ifany,effectontenderness.Whileitistruethatacidslikewine,vinegarandlemonjuicehavea
tenderizingeffectonprotein,thateffecttakestime.Andeventhen,youmightnotlikewhatyouget.Tendernessisavagueword,andinthiscaseitmeanssoftness.
Butascooks,weknowthatsnotwhatwewant.Soakmeatinanacidforlongenoughandthemeatwillbecomemealysomealythatitwillalmostcrumble.Thats
notthetenderwerelookingfor.
Providingflavorissomethingmarinadesdofairlywell,butinmostcases,thatflavorisonlyskindeep.Ittakesmarinadesalongtimetopenetratemuchbeneaththe
surface.Thatseventruerifthemarinadesareoilbased.Remember,meatismostlywater,andoilandwaterdontmix.Butevenifyoureusingamarinadewithoutany
oilatall,whatyouredoingisflavoringonlytheouterfractionofaninchofthemeat.Thatsnotnecessarilyabadthing.Exceptforverylargecutsofmeat,youusually
windupeatingabitofthesurfaceineverybite,soineffecttheflavoringisworking,thoughnotnearlytotheextentmostpeoplethink.
Theonetypeofmarinadethatreallyworksisbyfarthesimplest:brining.Abrineisacombinationofsaltandwater.Culinarily,thebestforhomeuseisabout7percent
salt(roughlycupofsaltpergallonofwater).Thatsonlyfaintlysaltywhenyoutasteit,andtherearenoherbs,nooils,noexoticflavoringsatall.Briningcanhave
quiteapositiveeffectontheflavorofmeatparticularlypoultryandporkbecauseofthreefactors.First,sinceitismainlywater,brinepenetratesthemeatfairly
quicklyitcontainsnooilstoslowitdown.Thesaltcausesthemusclefiberstoswell,allowingevenmorewatertopenetrate.Thesaltalsochangesthefibers,causing
themtoretainmoreofthewaterduringcooking.Finally,itseasonsthemeat,notjustonthesurfacebutallthewaythrough.Thedifferenceisinstantlyvisible,
particularlywithpoul

Page232
try.Youknowhowaturkeybreastusuallycollapsesafteritsremovedfromtheovenandlefttositbeforecarving?Ifyoubrineturkey,thatwonthappen.
Furthermore,thebreastmeat,whichtendstodryoutnomatterhowyoucookit,staysmoist.Andtheturkeytastesfullyseasoned,evenwithouttheadditionofextra
salt.
Briningissometimesusedonseafoodaswell.Salmonisbrinedbeforesmoking,andtheChinesebrieflysoakshrimpinbrinebeforestirfrying.Inbothcases,thebrine
bothseasonsthefleshandfirmsit.Beefissometimesbrinedtoocornedbeefisbrined(cornreferstothecoarsesaltusedintheprocess),andsoispastrami.
Usually,though,afullfledgedbrineisnotusedforbeefandlamb.Asimplesprinklingofsaltacoupleofminutesbeforecookingwillbesufficient.Thoughitwont
seasonallthewaythrough,itwilldrawmoisturetothesurface.Whenthatmoistureishitbyintenseheat,itsearsthemeatandformsathincrust.Itusedtobesaidby
oldtimechefsthatthiscrustsealedinthejuices,butyoucaneasilyseethatthisisnotliterallytrue.Searonesideofasteak,andwhenyouturnitover,youllstillsee
moisturebeingdriventhroughthesearedsideformingsmalldropsrightontopofwhatshouldhavebeentheseal.Inanotherway,though,theoldtimerswereright:
rememberthatjuicinessconsistsofbothmoisturefromthemeatandmoisturegeneratedinyourmouth.Thatsearedcrustisfullofthedeliciousbrownedsmellsand
flavorsthataresuretostartyousalivating.Thecrustdoesntsealinthejuices,butitsurecanmakethemeatjuicier.
Thesimplestwayofalltoaddflavortomeatisbycookingitalongwithsomethingelse.Tohavemucheffect,though,thismustbedoneinamoistenvironment.The
flavorsofthevegetables,herbsorspicesthatyouaddareabsorbedbytheliquidasthecellsofthoseplantsbreakdownandspilltheircontents.Asthemeatcooks
anditsinteriormoistureisforcedtothesurface,naturesdesireforbalancetakesover.Torestoreequilibriuminthemoisturelevels,themeatbeginstoabsorbsomeof
thatfla

Page233
voredliquid.Atthesametime,themoisturefromthemeatspillsoutintotheliquid,flavoringit.Asabonus,thisexchangeofliquidskeepsthemeatmoisterthanitwould
beifcookeddry.Ofcourse,theresacaveat:overcookedstewedmeatwillbedryitjusttakesahighertemperaturetobecomeovercooked.Still,thatmeansyoucan
achievemoredevelopedmeatflavorsthanwhencookedtoalowertemperature.Theflavorsattainedbystewingandbraisingareplainlymorecomplexthanthosefrom
anyotherkindofmeatcookery.

Page234

fishandshellfish
Becauseitislowinfatandhaslittleconnectivetissue,fishmustbecookedcarefullyandusuallyforafairlybrieftime.

Chooseamediumoilyfish,suchassalmonorhalibut,ifyouareabeginningcook,sincethesearerelativelyhighinfatandaremoreforgivingofmistakesthanare
leanfish.Meatyfish,suchastuna,sharkandswordfish,arealsoagoodchoiceforbeginners,butbecarefulnottoovercookthem,ortheywilldryout.

Nevermarinatefishformorethan10minutesinanythingcontainingaciditwillbegintocookthefleshbyitself.

Itsgenerallyagoodideatocookfishwiththeskinonsothefatwillflavorthefish,thoughyoushouldremovetheskinbeforeserving.

Ifyourecookingafillet,youcanwatchitssidesandseethecolorandtexturechangeasthefishcooks.Whenitisalittlemorethanhalfwaydone,turnitover.

Wholefisharebestgrilledoverhighheatorroastedinahotoven.Cutseveralslashesthroughtheflesh,butnotthroughtothebone,atleast2inchesapart,toallow
theheattopenetrate.Tokeepthefishfromsticking,oilitwellbeforecookingandthendontmoveituntilyourereadytoturnit.Wholefisharedonewhenyoucan
pulloutthedorsalfin(whichrunsalongtheback).

Thoughthecommonruleusedtobetocookfishuntilitflakes,itsusuallytoodonebythatpoint.Thetrickistocookthefishuntiljustbeforeitflakes,whenyoucan
seethemusclestrandsbeginningtoseparate.

Alwaysundercookratherthanovercookfish.Itwillcontinuecookingafterithasbeenremovedfromtheheat.

Page235
cevichewithshrimpandavocado
Inthisrecipe,theacidityfromthelimejuicecookstheshrimpwithoutheat.Avocadoisnottraditionalinceviche,butitscreaminessisagoodfoilfortheslightly
chewyshrimp.Servethisasanappetizeroralightlunch.

1
2

1
2
1

poundspeeledsmalltomediumshrimp(about1poundsintheshell)
Juiceof5limes
tablespoonsminced,seededjalapeochile
cupmincedredonion
Salt
cucumber,peeled,seededanddiced
avocados,halved,seeded,peeledanddiced
bunchfreshcilantroleaves,chopped
Friedtortillachips(optional)

Rinsetheshrimpundercoldrunningwaterandpatdry.Placetheminamixingbowlwiththelimejuice,1tablespoonofthejalapeo,2tablespoonsoftheonionanda
sprinklingofsalt.Tosswelltocoat.Spoonthemixtureintoazipperlockplasticbag,pressoutalltheairandsealtightly.Refrigerate,turningfromtimetotimeto
distributethelimejuice,untiltheshrimpareopaque,about1hour.Largershrimpmaytakeaslongas2to3hours.
Whenreadytoserve,tosstheshrimpwiththeremaining1tablespoonjalapeoand2tablespoonsonion,thecucumber,avocadosandcilantro.Tasteandadjustthe
salt.Servewithtortillachipsalongside,ifdesired.
8to10servings

Page236
calamarisalad
Calamaricontainsatrickyformofprotein.Cookitverybriefly,justuntilthefleshlosesitspearlyqualityanylonger,anditwillbetough.Thealternativeistocookit
foranextendedperiodoftime45minutestoanhour.Serveasanappetizeroralightlunch.

1
1
1
1

poundcleanedcalamari(squid),bodiescutintorings,tentacleshalved
garlicclove,minced
teaspoonsalt,plusmoreifneeded
teaspooncrushedredpepper
cupfreshlemonjuice,plusmoreifneeded
tablespoonredwinevinegar
cupoliveoil
poundcelery(tenderinnerribsonly),sliced
cupchoppedfreshparsley

Blanchthecalamariverybrieflyinplentyofrapidlyboilingwaterjustuntilthecolorhaslightenedandthepieceshavebarelystiffened,10to15seconds.Drain
immediatelyandplungeintoanicewaterbathtostopthecooking.
Inalargemixingbowl,combinethegarlic,salt,crushedredpepper,lemonjuiceandvinegarandwhisktocombine.Addtheoilandwhiskagaintocombine.
Patthecalamaripiecesdryandaddthemtothedressing,alongwiththecelery.Tosstomixwell.Addtheparsleyandtossagain.Seasontotastewithmoresaltand/or
morelemonjuiceifnecessary.Serveonchilledplates.
6servings

Page237
crispsalmonsalad
Heresasecret:someofthebestpartsofthesalmonareusuallythrownaway.Thebelly,whichisnormallytrimmedawaytomakeaneaterfillet,isfullofflavorfulfat.
Whenyoubroilthebelly,itturnscrispandtasty,almostlikesalmonbacon.Askyourfishmongertosetsomeasideforyou.Servethisasamaincourseatlunchorasa
lightdinner.

1
2
1

poundsalmonfillets,preferablybellycut
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
tablespoonsDijonmustard
tablespoonredwinevinegar
cupoliveoil
poundmixedsaladgreens

Preheatthebroiler.Cutthesalmonlengthwiseintostripsaboutinchwide.Saltandpepperthemgenerouslyonbothsides.Broilskinsideupuntiltheskiniscrispand
darkbrown,7to10minutes,dependingonthethicknessofthemeat.
Whilethesalmonisbroiling,beattogetherthemustardandvinegarinasmallbowl.Graduallyaddtheoil,beatingsteadilyuntilthedressingformsasmoothemulsion.
Addhalfofthedressingtothesaladgreensandtosswelltomix.Addenoughadditionaldressingsothatthegreensarelightlybutthoroughlycoated.
Dividethegreensamong4platesandarrangethesalmonstripsontop.Serveimmediately,passingtheextradressing.
4servings

Page238
dungenesscrabcoleslaw
Afteralotofexperimentation,IvefoundthatitisverydifficulttoovercookDungenesscrab.Undercookingit,ontheotherhand,canbearealproblemthemeatturns
mushynotatalltasty.AnditwouldbeapitytowasteoneoftherealtreasuresoftheWestCoast.IfyoucantfindDungenesscrab,youllneedabout1pounds
ofpickedovercrabmeatfromwhichevervarietiesyoucanfind.

3
1
1
1
1
1

(1to2pound)Dungenesscrabs(orseeabove)
largeheadnapacabbage
bulbfennel
bunchwatercress
cupmayonnaise
tablespoontarragonvinegar
Salt

Placethecrabsinalargepotandcoverwithcoldwater.Coverandcookoverhighheatuntilthecrabsturnbrightredandwhitefoamappearsatthejoints,about20
minutes.Drainandrinseundercoldwater.
Cleanthecrabs:Removethelegsandclaws.Removethetopshellandrinseoffallthejellyandthesoftlining.Removethefingerlikelungs.Cutthecrabbodyinto
quartersandpickoutthemeat.Crackthelegsandclawsandpickoutthemeat.Reservecupofthecrabmeat(preferablyincludingthe6bigclaws)forgarnish.
Cutthecabbageintoquartersandremovethecore.Usingasharpchefsknife,shavethecabbageintothinstrips.Cutthefennellengthwiseintoquartersandremove
thecore.Usingamandoline,aJapanesevegetablecutterortheknife,shavethefennelintothinstrips.Picktheleavesandtenderstemsfromthewatercress.Combine
thecabbage,fennelandwatercressinalargebowl.

Page239
Combinethemayonnaiseandvinegarinasmallbowlandbeatuntilsmooth.Addenoughofthemayonnaisemixture,alittleatatime,tothecabbage,tossinggently,to
coatlightlybutthoroughly.(Youllprobablyuseaboutcup.)Setasidefor20minutes.
Addthecrabmeatandsalttotastetothecabbagemixtureandtosslightlytomix,beingcarefulnottobreakupthechunksofcrabmeat.Moundthecoleslawonchilled
servingplates,garnishwiththeclawsandthereservedcrabmeatchunksandserve.
6to8servings

Page240
fishsoupwithshellfish
Thoughsometraditionalfishsoupscomewithspecificformulasthatdictateeverythingfromwhattypeoffishtousetohowtoserveit,theresnothingsimplerormore
adaptable.Therearereallyonlytworequirements:agoodflavorfulstockandamixoftypesoffish.Eventhestockiseasierthanyoumightthink.Thoughyoucanmake
itaselaborateasyouwant,simplysimmeringshrimpshells(andheads,ifyouhavethem)willgiveyouawonderfulbase.

4
2
1
3

2
1
1
1
1

1
1
1
18

stalkscelery,chopped
mediumcarrots,chopped
mediumyellowonion,chopped
garliccloves,minced
cupoliveoil,plusextrafordrizzling
cupsdrywhitewine
cupcannedtomatoes,withjuice
poundsmallclams,scrubbed
poundmussels,scrubbedanddebearded
poundshrimp,preferablywithheads
teaspoonsaffronthreads
poundfirmoilyfishsteaks,suchasswordfishorshark
poundwhitefishfillets,suchasrockcodorredsnapper
Salt
teaspooncrushedredpepper
(inchthick)slicesbaguette

Inalargesouppot,cookthecelery,carrots,onionandtwothirdsofthegarlicin3tablespoonsoftheoilovermediumhighheatuntilsoftened,about10minutes.Add
1cupofthewineandcookuntilreducedbyonethird,about5minutes.Addthetomatoesandturntheheattolow.
Inalargecoveredskillet,cooktheclamsintheremaining1cupwineoverhighheatfor3minutes.Addthemusselsandcook,shakingthe

Page241
panoccasionallytokeepfromscorching,untilalltheshellfishhaveopened,about5moreminutes.Discardanythatdonotopen.Transfertheshellfishtoabowl,cover
tightlyandrefrigerate.Straintheremainingliquidintoalargemeasuringcupandaddenoughwatertomake4cups.
Peeltheshrimp,reservingtheshells(andheads).Placetheshrimpinazipperlockplasticbag,sealtightlyandrefrigerateuntilneeded.Addtheshrimpshells(and
heads)andtheshellfishcookingliquidwatercombinationtothesouppotandcookovermediumheatfor25minutes.
Ladlethecontentsofthesouppotintoafoodprocessorandgrindfor5minutes.Pressthroughastrainerintoabowl.(Thismayneedtobedoneinbatches.)Addthe
saffrontothestrainedbroth,covertightlyandrefrigerate.
Cutthefishintochunks.Placeinazipperlockplasticbagandaddtheremaininggarlic,salttotaste,thecrushedredpepperandtheremaining1tablespoonoil.Seal
tightlyandmassagethefishthroughthebagtodistributetheingredientsevenly.Refrigerateforatleast30minutes.
Whenyouarealmostreadytoserve,bringthebrothtoasimmer.Addthefishandcookfor5minutes.Addtheshrimpandcookuntilopaqueandfirmalltheway
through,about5minutesmore.Addtheclamsandmussels,intheirshells,andheatthrough.Seasontotastewithsalt.
Meanwhile,toastthebaguetteslicesanddrizzlelightlywithoil.
Arrange3baguetteslicesineachof6widesoupbowlsandladlethefishsoupovertop.Serveimmediately.
6servings

Page242
salmonbraisedwithleeks,prosciuttoandmushrooms
Icallthisabraisebecausethereisverylittleliquidandthatliquidisservedalongwiththecookingvegetables.

3
2

2
4
2

smallleeks
slicesprosciutto
poundsmallbuttonmushrooms,cleaned
shallots,minced
tablespoons(stick)butter
cupsdrywhitewine
cupChampagnevinegar,ormoretotaste
Salt
(4to6ounce)skinlesssalmonfillets
teaspoonfreshthymeleaves

Trimthegreenpartoftheleeksto1inch.Leavingtherootendswhole,cuttheleekslengthwiseintoquartersandrinsethemwell.Slicethincrosswise.Slicethe
prosciuttointothinstrips.Leavesmallmushroomswhole,andcutlargeronesintoquarters.
Combinetheleeks,prosciutto,mushrooms,shallotsand2tablespoonsofthebutterinalargesautpan.Cook,covered,overmediumlowheatuntiltheleeksare
tender,about5minutes.Addthewineandvinegarandcookuntilreducedbyabouthalf,15to20minutes.Seasontotastewithsalt.Addmorevinegartotaste.(The
dishcanbepreparedseveralhoursaheaduptothispointandrefrigerated.)
Increasetheheattomedium.Theliquidshouldjustbarelybubble,neverboil.Placethesalmononthebedofleeks,sprinklewiththethyme,coverandcookgentlyuntil
thefishisopaqueontop,about10minutes.Testwiththepointofasharpknifethefishshouldjustflake.Donotovercook.

Page243
Transferthesalmontoaplatter,scrapingawayanyleekmixturefromthetopsofthefillets.Coverandkeepwarm.
Raisetheheattohighandreducetheliquidtoseveraltablespoons.Addtheremaining2tablespoonsbutterandcook,stirring,untilthebuttermeltsintothesauce.Place
thesalmonfilletsonplates,topwiththesauceandserve.
6servings

Page244
ovensteamedsalmon
withcucumbersalad
ThisrecipeisbasedonatechniqueIlearnedfromPaulaWolfert.Salmoncookedthiswaycomesoutincrediblymoistandflavorful,andbecauseofthelowheat,it
retainsitsdeeporangecolorevenwhencompletelycooked.

SALAD
5
2
1
1

cucumbers
Salt
tablespoonssnippedfreshchives
teaspoonsesameseeds,toasted
tablespoonricevinegar,ormoretotaste
teaspoontoastedsesameoil,ormoretotaste
tablespoonschoppedfreshcilantro

SALMON
1

(3pound)salmonfillet
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

Makethesalad:Peelthecucumbers,cutthemlengthwiseinhalfandscoopouttheseedycenterswiththetipofateaspoon.Cuteachhalflengthwiseinto3strips,then
into2inchsections.Saltthemandplaceinacolandertodrainfor20minutes.
Whenthecucumbershavedrained,rinsethemundercoldrunningwateranddrain.Transferthecucumberstoabowl,addthechives,sesameseeds,ricevinegarand
sesameoilandmixwell.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningtheflavorofthesesameoilshouldbealmostundetectable,thecucumbersshouldbeslightlytartfromthe
vinegar,andtheherbsshouldbeinbalance.Refrigerateuntilreadytoserve.Justbeforeserving,addthecilantroandmixwell.

Page245
Makethesalmon:Preheattheovento300degrees.
Removetheskinandpinbonesfromthesalmon.Trimthesidestomakearoughlyrectangularshapethatisfairlyconsistentinthickness(savethetrimmingsfor
chowder).Placethesalmononabakingsheetandsaltandpepperliberally.
Placearoastingpaninthebottomoftheovenandfillitwithboilingwater.Placethebakingsheetwiththesalmononthemiddlerackoftheovenandcookuntilyousee
whitefatbegintoemergeontopofthefillet,about20minutes.
Carefullyslidethesalmonontoaservingplatter,surrounditwiththesaladandserveimmediately.
6to8servings

Page246
grilledsalmonwithchipotletequilabutter
Theresjustenoughchipotleinthisrecipetoaddanearthy,spicytouchtothedish.Ifyouwantmore,addmore...uptoanothertablespoon.

1
1
8
2
2
2
6
2

garlicclove
tablespoonpureedcannedchipotlechilesenadobo
tablespoons(1stick)butter,atroomtemperature
teaspoonsmincedfreshcilantro
teaspoonstequila
teaspoonsfreshlimejuice
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
(6ounce)salmonfilletsorsteaks
tablespoonsbutter,melted

Dropthegarlicthroughthefeedtubeofafoodprocessorwiththemotorrunning.Whenthegarlicisminced,scrapedownthesides,addthechipotlepureeandthe
butterandpureeagain.Addthecilantro,tequilaandlimejuice,andpuree.Seasontotastewithsaltandpepper(atleast2grindsofpepperwillbenecessarytoround
outtheflavorofthechipotle).
Mixwellthen,withaplasticspatula,transferthebuttertoasheetofwaxedpaper.Spreadthebutteralongoneedgeofthepaperinagenerousmound.Rollupthe
paperaroundthebuttertoformasausageshape,pressingandpattingthebutterintoasolidlog.Twisttheendstightlyandrefrigerateforatleast2hoursor,even
better,overnight.
Preheatthegrill.
Lightlybrushthesalmonwiththemeltedbutterandseasonwithsaltandpepperonbothsides.Grilloverhighheat,turningonce,untilthesalmonjustbeginstoflake
whenpokedwiththetipofaknife,5to7minutes.Thesalmonshouldbemarkedontheoutsidebutstill

Page247
moistandpinkinside.Whenthesalmoniscooked,transferittoawarmplatter(itwillcookalittlebitmorefromitsretainedheat).
Unwrapthechipotletequilabutterandsliceitinto12thincoins.Place2coinsofbutteroneachpieceofsalmonandserveimmediately,beforethebuttermelts.
6servings

Page248
grilledswordfishwithsalsaverde
Thoughswordfishisameatyfish,itisusuallycookedtoomuchandwindsupdryandchewy.Paycarefulattention,andyoullhaveanice,moistresult.Thesauceisa
traditionalItalianonethatusesbreadasathickener.Thiswasprobablythefirstmethodusedforthickeningsauces(theGreekswroteaboutit),butitsrarelyused
anymore,whichistoobad.

SWORDFISH
1
4
2

garlicclove,minced
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
(pound)swordfishsteaks,about1inchthick
tablespoonsoliveoil

SALSAVERDE
1

2
4
2
2

(inchthick)slicecountrystylebread,trimmedofcrustsandbrokenup
cupoliveoil
tablespoonsredwinevinegar
anchovyfillets
tablespoonscapers
cupschoppedfreshItalianparsley
Dashofsalt

lemon

Preparetheswordfish:Sprinklethegarlicandsaltandpeppertotasteoverbothsidesoftheswordfishsteaks.Placethesteaksinazipperlockplasticbagandaddthe
oil.Pressoutasmuchairaspossibleandsealthebag.Massagetheseasoningsintothesteaksthroughthebag,thenmarinateintherefrigeratorforatleast1hourand
upto4hours.
Makethesalsaverde:Inasmallbowl,combinethebread,oilandvinegarandstirtomixwell.Setasideforatleast5minutestosoftenthebread.

Page249
Inafoodprocessor,combinethebreadmixture,anchovies,capersandparsleyandprocessuntilfairlysmooth.Seasontotastewithsalt.(Thesalsacanbemade
severalhoursahead.Setasideatroomtemperature.)
Preheatthegrill.
Removethesteaksfromtheplasticbag,reservinganymarinadeinthebag,andgrillovermediumheatuntilwellmarkedonthefirstside,about7minutes.Brushwith
thereservedmarinadeandcarefullyturnover.Cookforanother5minutes,oruntilthepointofasmallsharpknifecanbeeasilyinsertedintotheflesh.
Transfertheswordfishtoaplatter,squeezethelemonjuiceoverthetopandsmeareachwithabout1tablespoonofsalsaverde.Servetheremainingsauceontheside.
4to6servings(about1cupsalsa)

Page250
bakedfishwithpotatoesandartichokes
Mostfishiscookedveryquicklyinordertokeepitmoist,butmeatyfishlikeswordfish,tunaorsharkistheexception.Thiscookingtechniqueissimilartotheway
thesefisharesometimescookedinMorocco,andtheresultismoistfishandvegetablesthatareperfumedwithjuicesfromthefishandthespicingcombination.

CALIFORNIACHARMOULA
4
2

garliccloves,coarselychopped
greenonions,coarselychopped
cupchoppedfreshparsley
cupchoppedfreshmint
cupoliveoil
Juiceoflemon
Salt

FISH
2

4
4

poundsswordfish,tunaorshark(orotheroilyfish)steak
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
Juiceof1lemon
artichokes
bakingpotatoes,slicedinchthick

Makethecharmoula:Placethegarlic,greenonions,parsleyandmintinablenderandblendwell.Withtheblenderrunning,slowlyaddtheoilinathinstream.The
mixtureshouldformathickemulsification.Addthelemonjuiceandseasontotastewithsalt.
Preparethefish:Rubthefishsteaksonbothsideswithsaltandpeppertotaste.Pourthecharmoulaintoalargebowl.Dipthesteaksinthecharmoula,thenshakeoff
anyexcess.Setthesteaksasideonaplate,covertightlyandrefrigerateforatleast45minutestomarinate.Coverandrefrigeratetheremainingcharmoula(leaveitin
thelargebowl).
Preheattheovento400degrees.

Page251
Fillalargebowlwithcoldwaterandaddthelemonjuice.
Trimtheartichokesbypullingoffanyleavesclingingtothestemandthetwoouterrowsofleavesaroundthebase.Holding1artichokeinonehandandasharpparing
knifeintheother,keepingtheknifeparalleltothestem,turntheartichokeagainsttheknife,trimmingawaytheouterleavesuntilonlythepalegreentoyellowbase
remains.Laytheartichokeonitssideandcutawaythetopsoftheremainingleaves,roughlywheretheleavesswellout.Withtheparingknife,peeloffthedarkgreen
skinoftheartichokeheartfromthebasetowardthestem,exposingthelightgreenfleshunderneath.Settheartichokeupsidedownontheworksurface,andcutitinto
quarters.Trimawaythehairychokesandplacetheartichokequartersinthebowloflemonwater.Repeatwiththeremainingartichokes.
Draintheartichokes,placetheartichokesandpotatoesinthebowlofcharmoulaandstirwelltocoat.Removetheartichokesandpotatoes,leavingtheremaining
charmoulainthebowl,andscatterthemoverthebottomofalargeoiledbakingdish.Laythefishsteaksontopofthevegetablesandsealthedishtightlywithfoil.Bake
for30minutes.
Removethefoil,pourtheremainingcharmoulaoverallandreturnthepantotheovenuntilthevegetablesbegintoturncrustyandbrown,about20minutes.Servewith
sturdybreadtosopupthejuices.
6servings

Page252
broiledsanddabs(orsole)
withbrownbutter
SanddabisaspecificallyWestCoastfish.Itislikeaverysmallsolethatisalmostalwayssoldwiththefilletsstillonthebone.Thereispreciouslittlemeat,butwhat
thereisischoicenuttyanddelicate.Thisisaclassictreatment.Youcansubstituteanysolewithgoodresults.

4
2

1
1

tablespoons(stick)butter
Salt
poundssanddabsorsolefillets
lemon
tablespooncapers,withjuice
tablespoonmincedfreshparsley

Meltthebutterinasmallsaucepanovermediumlowheatandcontinuecookinguntilthebutterisroughlyhazelnutcoloredandsmellswarmandnutty.Donotscorch
thebutter.(Ifblackflecksappear,wipethepancleanandstartoverwithfreshbutter.)Keepitwarm.
Preheatthebroilerandthebroilerpan.
Lightlysprinklesaltonbothsidesofthesanddabs.Placethefilletsskinsidedownonthepreheatedbroilerpanandbroilabout4inchesfromtheheatuntilthefishis
firm,about5minutes.Brushthetopofthefilletswithsomeofthebrownbutter,raisethepantowithin1to2inchesofthebroilerelementandbroiljustlongenoughto
brownthetopofthefillets.Transferthefilletstoawarmplatter.
Squeezethelemonjuiceintothebrownbutter,addthecapersandparsleyandpouroverthefillets.Serveimmediately.
6servings

Page253

dryheatcookingmethodsformeat
Becausegrillingisdoneoverrelativelyhighheat,itisbestusedforrelativelythincutsofmeat.Roastingisbetterforlargercuts.

Alwayspatthemeatdrywithpapertowelsbeforegrillingorroasting.Anymoistureleftonthesurfacewillsteamthemeatbeforeithasachancetobrown.

Seasonthemeatwellbeforecooking.Seasoningsforroastedorgrilledmeatscanbeassimpleassaltandpepperorascomplexasamarinade.Saltisthemost
importantseasoning,becauseitdrawssomeofthemeatsjuicetothesurface,whereitcancaramelizeandbrown.

Whilemarinadescancontributealotofflavor,asageneralrule,theyaffectonlytheverysurfaceofthemeatanddonothingforitstexture.Beparticularlycarefulwith
acidicmarinades.Ifmeatisleftinthemtoolong,themarinadewillbegintobreakdownthesurfaceproteins,resultinginamealytexture.

Whenwineisusedinamarinade,cookitfirsttogetridofmostofthealcoholandconcentratetheflavor.Theresultisamuchsmoother,fullertastingmarinade.

Whenworkingwithveryleanmeats,itisimportanttouseamarinadethataddsfat.Apasteofflavoringsandoilpoundedwithamortarandpestleorpureedina
blenderorfoodprocessorworkswell.

Madewithnothingbutsaltandwater(thoughother,preferablydried,seasoningscanbeaddedaswell),brineimprovestheflavorandthetextureofclosegrained
meatsparticularlypoultryandpork.Ingeneral,donotbrinebeefandlamb.

Biggercutstakelongertocook.Cookthemwithlowerheattogetsmoothcookingandevenbrowning.Ifyouwantacontrastindonenesssay,mediumrarein
thecenterandwellbrownedonthesurfaceuseahigherheat.Smallercutscanbecookedathighertemperatures.

Page254
Ifthemeattobecookedisuneveninshape,suchasapiecethathasbeencutawayfromthebone,likealegoflamb,itwillcookmoreevenlyifyoutrussitortieit
intoamoreregularshape.

Makesurethereisroomforthehot,dryairtocirculatearoundthemeat.Whenroasting,usearacktokeepthemeatoffthebottomofthepan.

Turnthemeatoccasionallyasitcookssoitbrownsevenly.Thisisimportantevenwithroasting.

Whenroastingverysmallpiecesofmeat,suchassmallbirdsorporkorlambtenderloin,brownthemeatfirstinaskillet,sincethecookingtimeintheovenwillbe
tooshorttodothat.

Bastingaddssomeflavortotheexteriorofmeat,butuseonlyameltedpurefat,suchasbutterorpandrippings.Anyliquidwillresultinsteamingandsofteningthe
crust.

Judgingdonenessisveryimportantwithdryheatcookingmethods.Thesurestwayistoinsertaninstantreadthermometerintothethickestordensestpartofthe
meat.

Generally,poultryshouldbecookedtothehighesttemperature,about160to165degrees.Porkshouldbecookedto155to160degrees.Legoflambshouldbe
cookedto140to145chopsandsirloinscanbecookedto130.Beefshouldbecookedto130to140,dependingonthedesireddoneness.

Allmeats,whethergrilledorroasted,benefitfroma10to20minuterestattheendofcookingtoallowthemoistureandthetemperaturetoequalizeinsidethe
meat.

Page255
roastbrinedturkey
Briningresultsinroastedorgrilledmeatsthatareuniformlymoistandflavorful.Therearemanydifferentkindsofbrines,andthisisagoodbasiconethatworkswellfor
bothturkeyandpork.Leavingtheturkeyuncoveredintherefrigeratorafterithasbeenremovedfromthebrinedriestheskinthoroughlysothatitwillroastascrispas
possible.Turningtheturkeyfromsidetosideduringtheearlypartoftheroastingensuresthatitbrownsevenly.

1
1

cupsalt
gallonwater
(12to14pound)turkey

Combinethesaltandwaterandstiruntilthesaltdissolves.Pourthebrineovertheturkeyinastockpotjustlargeenoughtoholdboth.Theturkeyshouldbecompletely
covered,butyoumaynotneedtouseallthebrine.Coverwithaluminumfoilandrefrigeratefor6hours,orovernight,turningtwoorthreetimestomakesureallthe
turkeyissubmerged.
Removetheturkeyfromthebrine(discardthebrine)andpatitdrywithpapertowels.Refrigerate,uncovered,for6hours,orovernight,toairdrytheskinthoroughly.
Preheattheovento450degrees.
Placetheturkeyonitssideonarackinashallowroastingpan.Roastfor15minutes.Turntheturkeyontoitsothersideandroastforanother15minutes.Turnthe
turkeybreastsideupandroastforanother15minutes.
Reducetheheatto325degreesandroastuntilaninstantreadmeatthermometerinsertedinthecenterofthethickestpartofthethighregisters160to165degrees,
about2hours.
Removetheturkeyfromtheoven,coverlooselywithfoilandsetasidefor20minutesbeforecarving.
10to12servings

Page256
turkeytonnatosandwich
TonnatoisapopularsummertimesauceforcoldvealinItaly.Vealisexpensivehere,soItriedthedishwithturkeybreast,whichisplentifulandrelativelyinexpensive.
Rollingandtyingthebonedturkeybreastgivesthemeatauniformshapesothatitcooksmoreevenlyandlooksbetterwhenitsdone.Insteadofmakingsandwiches,
youcouldservetheturkeyandsauceontheirownforalunchorlightdinnerdish,alongwithasimplypreparedvegetable.

1
46
1

1
1

Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
(2to2pound)bonelessturkeybreasthalf,rolledandtied
cupoliveoil,plusextraforcookingtheturkey
(6ounce)cantunainoliveoil,undrained
anchovyfillets,drained
Juiceof1lemon,ormoretotaste
cupmayonnaise
cupcapers,drained
largeloafciabattaorotherlongrusticbread
smallbuncharugula,trimmedandwashed

Preheattheovento300degrees.
Saltandpeppertheturkeybreastandrubitwithoiltocoat.Placethemeatonarackinaroastingpanandroastuntilaninstantreadthermometerinsertedinthecenter
registers160degrees,abouthours.Letthemeatrestfor10minutes.
Removethebreastfromtherackandwrapittightlyinaluminumfoil.Refrigerateforseveralhours,orovernight.
Pureethetunaandanchoviesinablender(youcanuseafoodprocessor,butthesaucewillbegrainier).Withthemotorrunning,addthecupoilinathinstreamto
makeasmoothemulsion,scrapingdownthesidesasnecessary.Addthelemonjuiceandpulsetocombine.Themixtureshouldbeverytangyifnecessary,addmore
lemonjuice.Iftheanchoviesarentsaltyenough,addsalttotaste.

Page257
Placethemayonnaiseinamixingbowlandpourthetunamixtureoverit.Whisktocombine.Addthecapersandwhiskbrieflyjusttomix.Pourhalfofthesauceontoa
largeplatterandspreaditevenly.
Removetheturkeyfromtherefrigerator,unwrapitandcutawaythestrings.Cutitintotoinchthickslices,placingtheslicesontheplatter,overlappingtomake
themfit.Spoontheremainingsauceevenlyoverthetop.Covertightlywithplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours,orovernight.
Cuttheendsfromthebreadandsplitithorizontallyinhalf,leavingthehalvesattachedalongonelongside.Arrangetheturkeyslicesonthebreadandspoonoverjust
enoughsaucefromtheplattertomoistenthemeat.Scatterthearugulaoverthetopandclosethesandwich.Wraptightlyinplasticwrapandtheninfoil.Refrigerateuntil
readytoserve,upto4hours.Sliceandserve.
8to10servings

Page258
realfajitas
Skirtsteakisanextremelytoughcutofmeat(itsthemusclethatsupportsthediaphragm,usedinbreathing).Ithaslotsofflavor,butitneedstobeslicedverythinso
thatitwontbetoochewy.

1
1
12

poundskirtsteak
Salt
jalapeochile,seededandminced
Juiceof1lime
corntortillas,warmed
cupsalsa
cupguacamole

Laytheskirtsteaksonaworksurfaceandcheckclosely,removinganysilverskin.Saltthesteakslightlyonbothsides.Putinazipperlockplasticbagwiththe
jalapeoandlimejuiceandrefrigerateforatleast1hour,orovernight.
Preheatthegrill.
Removethesteaksfromthebagandpatdrywithpapertowels.Grilloverahotfirefor4to5minutes.Turnandgrillfor3to4moreminutes.Transferthesteakstoa
cuttingboard,letrestfor5minutesandsliceagainstthegrainintothinstrips.
Dividethemeatamongthetortillas,garnisheachwith1tablespoonsalsaand1tablespoonguacamoleandserve.
12tacos

Page259
umbrianstyleporkroast
ThespicingforthisroastwasinspiredbyUmbrianporchetta,orroastpig.Sincetherecipeusestheloin,youhavetobeverycarefulnottoovercookit,orthemeat
willbedry.Ifyouprefer,youcanuseporkbutt,whichwillgiveyouamuchfattier,moister,moreauthenticandpossiblymoredeliciousroast.Ifusingporkbutt,you
canpushtheinternaltemperatureto160degrees,astheincreasedfattinesswillkeepthemeatmoist.

1
2
2
1
2

tablespoonblackpeppercorns
teaspoonsfennelseeds
teaspoonskoshersalt
(3pound)boneinporkloinroast
tablespoonsoliveoil

Grindthepeppercorns,fennelseedsandsaltwithamortarandpestle,spicegrinderorcoffeemilluntilfine.Settheporkloinonaplatetocatchtheexcessandrubthe
spicesoverthemeat,coveringallsidesthickly.Pourtheoiloverthemeatandmassageittoworkinthespicesandcoatevenly.Setasidetomarinateatroom
temperaturefor2hours.
Preheattheovento325degrees.
Placetheporkonarackinaroastingpanandroast,turningevery30minutes,untiltheinteriortemperaturereaches155degrees,2to2hours.Checktheroastin
severalplaceswithaninstantreadthermometer,beingcarefulnottotouchthebone.
Whentheroastisdone,removeitfromtheoven,tentitwithaluminumfoilandletitstandfor20to30minutestoletthejuicesset.
Toserve,carvetheporkintothinslices.
6servings

Page260
roastlambwithfreshpeasandturnips
ThislegoflambistraditionalFrenchcooking,notonlyinthemannerinwhichitisroastedbutalsointhewayflavorsarelayeredandtiedtogether.Trimmingsand
bonesfromthemeat,peelingsfromtheturnipsandthepeapodsallgointothestock,givingitacomplexflavorfromwhatare,essentially,scraps.

1
2
3
1
6
4
2
3
6
1
2

(4to6pound)legoflamb,hipboneandtrimmingsremoved(thebutchercandothis)andreserved
garliccloves,minced
sprigsfreshthyme,minced,plusteaspoonfreshthymeleaves
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
(750milliliter)bottledryredwine,reducedoverhighheatto3cups
largeturnips,peeledandcutintoeighths,or24smallturnips,peeled(reservethepeelings)
mediumcarrots,cutintochunks
mediumyellowonions,quartered
poundsfreshpeas,shelled(reservethepods)
tablespoons(stick)butter
shallot,minced
coarseouterleavesromainelettuce,cutintothinstrips

Carefullytrimawaythetoughouterlayeroffat(fell)fromthelamb.Rubthelamballoverwiththegarlic,thymesprigsandsaltandpepper.Placethelambinalarge
zipperlockplasticbag.Pourthereducedwineoverandsealtightly.Marinate,refrigerated,foratleast8hours,orovernight,turningoccasionallytocoatthelamb
evenlywiththemarinade.
Preheattheovento450degrees.
Tomakealambstockforcookingthevegetablesandmakingthesauce,placethereservedhipboneandanyleantrimmingsinaroastingpanandroast,turning
occasionally,untilwellbrowned.

Page261
Meanwhile,cooktheturnipsinrapidlyboilingwaterjustuntilaknifeeasilypiercesthecenter,about5minutes.Draintheturnipsandrefreshtheminicewater.Drain,
coverandrefrigerate.
Placetheroastedhipboneandtrimmings,halfofthecarrotsandhalfoftheonionsinamediumsaucepan.Coverwithwaterandbringslowlytoasimmer.Cook,
keepingatabaresimmer,foratleast1hourandupto2hours.Strainandchill.
Whenyouarereadytoroastthelamb,preheattheovento325degrees.Greasearoastingpan.
Removethelambfromtheplasticbag,reservingthemarinade,andpatthemeatdrywithpapertowels.Placethelambonarackinaroastingpanandscatterthe
remainingcarrotsandonionsoverthebottomofthepan.Roastthelamb,turningitevery30minutes,untiltheinternaltemperaturereaches135degrees,about20to25
minutesperpound.
Whilethelambisroasting,removethestockfromtherefrigeratorandskimoffthefat.Bringthestock,alongwiththereservedturnippeelingsandahandfulofthe
reservedpeapods,toasimmer.Cookforatleast30minutes.
Whenthelambisdone,removeitfromtheroastingpan(setthepanaside)andplaceitonaservingplatterorcarvingboardlooselytentedwithaluminumfoiltokeep
warm.Letrestforatleast30minutestoallowthejuicestoset.
Whilethelambisresting,inalargesautpan,combinethepeas,turnips,4tablespoons(stick)ofthebutter,theshallot,lettuce,thymeleavesandcupofthestock.
Cookovermediumheatjustuntilthepeasarenolongerstarchy,5to7minutes.Keepwarm.
Meanwhile,removetheonionsandcarrotsfromtheroastingpananddiscard.Skimthefatfromthemeatjuicesleftinthepan.Tomakethesauce,placethepanover
highheatandaddthereservedmarinade.Cook,scrapingupthebrownedbitsfromthebottomofthepan,untilthemarinadereducestoseveraltablespoons,5to10

Page262
minutes.Youshouldhaveabout1cuplambstockremainingaddittothepanandcookuntilreducedtoathinsauce.Keepwarm.
Whenreadytoserve,carvethelamb(pourthejuicesintothewarmsauce)andplaceonaplatter.Bringthesaucetoaboilandwhiskintheremaining2tablespoons
butter.Strainthesauceintoasauceboatandservethepeasandturnipsalongsidethelamb.
6servings

Page263

moistheatcookingmethodsformeat
Thedifferenceamongvariousmoistheatcookingmethodsbraises,stews,daubesistheamountofliquidused.Whichmethodyouchoosedependsonhow
muchsauceyouwant.Braisesarecookedwithverylittleliquidlittlemorethanenoughtocoverthebottomofthepan,really.Stewsusemoretheliquidwill
comehalfwayupthemeat.Daubesusethemostthemeatisnearlysubmerged.

Usemoistheatcookingfortoughcutsofmeat,suchastheshankandotherpartsofthelegandshoulder.Theyaretheonlyonesthathaveenoughconnectivetissue
tokeepthemeatmoistafterextendedcooking.Tendercutswillbreakdownandbecomegrainyanddry.

Trycookingwholecutsofmeatonthebonewithmoistheat.Theconnectivetissuethatattachesthemeattothebonewillmakethemeatevenmoister.

Usuallyyoullwanttobrownthemeatbeforeaddingtheliquid.Butthereareexceptionscalledblanquettesorfricasseeswhicharetypicallyreservedforveal
orchicken.

Sometimesthemeatisflouredbeforebrowning.Inthecaseofmoistcookingmethods,rememberthatalthoughthisflourwillhelptothickentheliquidlateron,itwill
notthickennearlysomuchasanequalquantityofrawflour.Becauseofthebrowning,itsthickeningabilitywillbesubstantiallyweakened.

Whenbrowningthemeat,followtheprocedureforsauting:Besuretouseenoughoiltoamplycoverthebottomofthepan.Seasonthemeat.Makesuretheoilis
hotbeforeaddingthemeat.Allowthemeattocookonthefirstsideuntilthoroughlybrowned,withoutmovingitabouttoomuch.Tokeepthearomaticvegetables
(onions,garlic,etc.)fromscorching,dontaddthemuntilafterthemeathasbrowned.Thenbesuretopouroffallexcessoilbeforeproceeding.

Useaheavypotthatisjustbigenoughtoholdthemeat.

Page264
Braises,stewsanddaubesalmostalwaysincludevegetables.Addsomeofthemonions,garlic,celery,carrotsandpeppersearlyintheprocess,justafterthe
meathasbeenbrowned,toflavortheliquidandthemeat.Addasecondgroupofvegetablesshortlybeforethedishisdone,toserveasaccompaniments.Becausethe
vegetablesusedforflavoringwillalmostcertainlybetooovercookedtoserve,strainthemoutbeforeaddingthesecondbatchofvegetables.

Whatevertypeofmoistheatcookingyoureusing,itisimportanttoaddnomoreliquidthanisnecessary,inordertokeepthebrothasconcentratedaspossible.A
usefultrickistofloatasheetofaluminumfoiljustontopofthemeat,underthelid,whichtrapsthemoistureandkeepsitfromevaporatingintotheairspaceunderthe
lid.

Whenbraising,checktheleveloftheliquidfrequently,especiallylaterinthecookingprocess.Youllwanttomaintainalevelofatleastinchtokeepthefoodfrom
scorching.

Usually,theheatusedformoistheatcookingislowandslow.Cookintheoven,atabout350degrees,tokeeptheheatasevenaspossible.Meatcookedby
lowheatbraisingcanbeseparatedintoshreds.

Highheatbraisesaredelicious,ifalittletricky.Forthese,itisimperativethatyouuseonlyheavypots,suchascastiron,withtightfittinglidsandthatyoucheckthe
liquidfrequently.Meatcookedbyhighheatbraisingseparatesintochunks.

Itseasytotellwhenamoistcookedpieceofmeatisdoneaknifeoracarvingforkcanbeinsertedeasily.

Thoughitmayseemunlikely,youcanovercookbraises,stewsanddaubes.Themeatwillbreakdowntothepointthatitisgrainy.Testthemeatatleasteveryhalf
hourfordoneness.

Page265
If,aftercooking,theliquidforyourdishhasnotthickenedenough,youcanhelpitalongbyaddingabeurremani.Knead2tablespoonsbutterand1tablespoon
flourtogetherintoapaste.Removethemeatandvegetablesfromthepot,increasetheheattohighandwhiskinthebuttermixture,abitatatime.Oncethesauceisthe
desiredthickness,returnthemeatandvegetablestothepot.

Braises,stewsanddaubescanbeanythingfromhomeytoveryrefined.Forarusticdish,tryremovingthemeatandpureeingthevegetablesintotheliquid.Cooka
littlelonger,andtheywillthickenthesauceevenmore.Forthemostrefineddish,strainoutallthevegetablesandmeat,finishthesaucewithalittlebutter,returnthe
meattothepotandservewithafreshbatchofaccompanyingvegetablesontheside.

Moistcookedmeatsarealwaysbetterwhenallowedtostand,evenbriefly,thenreheated.Thisallowsforamorecompleteexchangeofflavorsamongthemeat,the
flavoringsandtheliquid.Evena20minuterestaftercomingoutoftheovenwillallowtheflavorstominglebetter.

Althoughyoushouldalwaysseasonthemeatbeforebrowning,youmuststillseasonitagainattheendofcooking.Alwaystasteabitoftheliquidbeforeserving.

Page266
chickenbraisedwithgreenolivesandthyme
Weusuallythinkofbraisingcutsofmeat,butchickenbraiseswelltoo,particularlydarkmeat.Whenbraisingwhitemeat,whichovercooksquickly,stackthepieceson
topofthedarkmeatsotheyfinishcookingwithoutcomingintodirectcontactwiththehotliquid.

2
4
2
1

3
1

1
1

(3to3pound)chickens
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
cupoliveoil
garliccloves,unpeeled,plus
garliccloves,sliced
mediumyellowonions,chopped
largegreenbellpepper,cored,seededandchopped
poundcarrots,chopped
stalkscelery,chopped
cupchoppedfreshparsley,plusextraforgarnish
cupsdrywhitewine
(6ounce)cantomatopaste
2poundswhiteboilingpotatoes,peeled
poundgreenolives,preferablyunpitted
tablespoonchoppedfreshthyme
teaspoonchoppedfreshmint

Rinsethechickenswellanddisjointeachinto2drumsticks,2thighs,2wingsand2breasts.Cuteachbreastcrosswiseinhalf.Reservethebacks,wingtipsandnecks
foranotheruse,ifdesired.Patthechickenpiecesdrywithpapertowels.Saltandpepperthemwell.
Heattheoilinawideskilletovermediumhighheat.Addtheunpeeledgarliccloves.Whenthegarlicbeginstosputterandcolor,beginbrowningthechickeninbatches:
drumsticksandthighsfirst,thenwings,thenbreastpieces.Cookeachuntillightlybrowned,10to15minutesperside.Aseachbatchisfinished,transferthechicken
piecestoalargeDutchoven,beginningwithalayerofthedrumsticksand

Page267
thighsonthebottom,thenthewings,thenthebreastpieces.Removeanddiscardthegarlicifitbeginstoscorch.
Preheattheovento350degrees.
Whenallthechickenisbrowned,pouroffallbutabout1tablespoonoftherenderedfatfromthepan.Returntheskillettothestovetopandincreasetheheattohigh.
Whenthebrownedbitsbegintosizzle,addtheonions,greenpepper,carrots,celery,slicedgarlicandcupoftheparsley.Letthevegetablessitfor1minuteorso,
untiltheybegintosoften,thenstirthem,scrapingthebottomoftheskillettogetupasmanyofthestickybrownedbitsaspossible.Whenthevegetablesarebrightly
coloredandbeginningtowilt,pourthemoverthechickenintheDutchoven.
Inasmallbowl,mix1cupofthewinewiththetomatopasteuntilsmooth.Returntheskillettohighheat.Addtheremaining2cupswinetotheskillet,thenaddthe
winetomatopastemixture,andstir,scrapingthebottomandsidesofthepantofreeallthebrownedbits,untilthewinenolongersmellsofalcohol.Pourthemixture
overthechickenandvegetables.Gentlystirtodistributethevegetablesandwinearoundthechickenpieces,butbecarefulnottodisturbthelayers.Placeasheetof
aluminumfoillooselyoverthechicken.Coverandbakefor30minutes.
Whilethechickeniscooking,cookthepotatoesinplentyofrapidlyboilingsaltedwateruntilaknifecaneasilybeinserted,about20minutes.Drainand,whenjustcool
enoughtohandle,cutintoquarters.
Removethechickenfromtheovenandaddthepotatoes,theolives,thyme,mintandtheremainingcupparsley.Gentlystiragaintodistributewithoutdisturbingthe
layersofchicken.Returntotheovenandcookuntilthechickenisverytender,about30moreminutes.
Seasonthebrothtotastewithsaltandpepper.Serveinbroadpastabowls,garnishedwithplentyofparsley.
8to10servings

Page268
chickeninthepot
ThisisaversionoftheFrenchclassicpouleaupot.Noticethatthechickenisnotbrownedbeforecooking,whichkeepstheflavordelicate.Noticealsothelarge
amountofaromaticsthatlendtheirperfumetothebrothandthechicken.Talkaboutexchangeofflavors!Noticethatthechickeniscookedintwolayersthewhite
meatabovethedarktokeepthebreastmeatfromovercooking.

3
1
1
1

2
1
2
2
2
2
1
1
1

mediumcarrots
mediumleek,trimmedandwashed
mediumyellowonion,quartered
stalkcelery
mediumparsnip
garliccloves
bunchparsley,leaveschopped,stemsreserved
bayleaves
(3pound)chickens,quartered
cupsdrywhitewine
cupschickenstock
poundsmallboilingpotatoes,quartered
poundsugarsnappeas,trimmedandstringed
poundbrownmushrooms,cleaned
Coarsesalt,preferablyseasalt

Combinethecarrots,leek,onion,celery,parsnip,garlic,parsleystemsandbayleavesinalargesouppot.(Itisnotnecessarytochopthevegetables.)Placethe
chickenpiecesontopofthevegetables,thelegquartersonthebottom,thebreastsontop.Pourthewineandstockover,thenaddenoughwatertobarelycoverthe
chicken.
Bringtoasimmerovermediumheat.Placeasheetofaluminumfoillooselyoverthechicken.Coverandcookatabaresimmer,usingaflametamerifnecessary,for1
hour.

Page269
Whilethechickeniscooking,boilorsteamthepotatoesuntilbarelysoft,about20minutes.Boilorsteamthepeasuntilbrightgreenbutstillcrisp,about5minutes.
Inanonstickskillet,cookthemushroomsoverhighheat,tossingthemtokeepthemfromburning,untilbrowned,about5minutes.Saltlightly.
Whenthechickeniscooked,transferthepiecestoawarmedovenproofplatter,coverwithaluminumfoilandkeepwarminalowoven.Ladlethechickencooking
liquidthroughacheeseclothlinedstrainerintoasaucepan.Bringtheliquidtoaboil.Seasonwithsalttotaste.Thebrothshouldbesomewhatundersalted,asmoresalt
willbeaddedlater.
Place1chickenquarterinthemiddleofeachof8shallowsouporpastabowlsandarrangesomepotatoes,peasandmushroomsaroundit.Spoonoverthehotbroth,
beingcarefulnottodisturbthevegetables.Sprinklelightlywiththechoppedparsley,sprinklesomesaltoverthechickenandserve.
8servings

Page270
mushroompotroast
Althoughweusuallybraisemeatatlowtemperatures,itcanalsobecookedinaveryhotoven,aslongasyoukeepaneyeonit.Meatcookedthiswayhasanalmost
butterytextureandfallsapartinchunks.Useaheavycastironcasserolewithatightlyfittinglidandmonitortheleveloftheliquidcarefully,particularlyinthelasthour
ofcooking.

1
1
3
1

6
1
1
1

2
1

(3to4pound)chuckroast,either7boneorroundbone
Salt
(750milliliter)bottledryredwine
tablespoonsoliveoil
poundyellowonions,sliced
poundcarrots,sliced
garliccloves,smashed
stalkcelery
bayleaf
Stemsfrom1bunchparsley,pluscupfinelychoppedfreshparsley
wholeclove
cupredwinevinegar
tablespoonsbutter
poundbuttonmushrooms,cleanedandquartered
Freshlygroundblackpepper

Sprinkletheroastwithsaltonbothsidesandplaceina1gallonzipperlockplasticbag.Addthewine,sealthebagandrefrigeratefor8hours,orovernight,turning
occasionallytomakesureallthemeatiscoveredwithwine.
Preheattheovento450degrees.
HeattheoilinaDutchovenovermediumhighheat.Removetheroastfromthebag,reservingthewine,andpatitdrywithpapertowels.PlacetheroastintheDutch
ovenandbrownwellonbothsides,5to10minutesperside.

Page271
Transfertheroasttoaplate.Pouroffallbut1tablespoonoftherenderedfatfromtheDutchovenandreducetheheattomedium.Addtheonions,carrotsand4ofthe
garlicclovesandcookuntilthevegetablesareslightlysoftened,about5minutes.
Cuttheceleryinhalf.Tiebothstalkstogetherwiththebayleafandparsleystemsusingkitchentwineandinsertthecloveinacelerystalk,tomakeabouquetgarni.
Addthebouquetgarniandthereservedwinetothevegetablesandsimmerfor5minutes.
Addthemeatandvinegarandplaceasheetofaluminumfoillooselyoverthemeat.CovertheDutchovenwithatightfittinglid,placeitintheovenandcookuntilthe
meatiseasilypiercedwithasharpforkandisfallingoffthebone,2to2hours.Every30minutes,turnthemeatandstirtheliquidandvegetables.Ifthelevelofthe
liquidgetstoolow,addupto1cupwater,alittleatatime,topreventthemeatandvegetablesfromscorching.
Transferthemeattoaplateandcoveritwithaluminumfoiltokeepwarm.Pourtheliquidandvegetablesintoastraineroverabowl,pressingonthevegetablestoget
asmuchliquidaspossiblediscardthevegetables.Settheliquidasideuntilthefatfloatstothetop.
WashouttheDutchoven.SkimoffthefatfromthesettledliquidandreturnthemeatandliquidtotheDutchoven.Keepwarmoverlowheat.
Meltthebutterinalargeskilletovermediumhighheat.Whenthebutterhasfoamedandsubsided,addthemushroomsandtheremaining2garlicclovesandcook,
tossing,untilthemushroomsarelightlybrowned,about5minutes.
Addthemushroomstothepotroastandcookfor15minutesoverlowheattomarrytheflavors.Seasontotastewithsaltandpepper,garnishwiththechopped
parsleyandserve.
6to8servings

Page272
lambandlentilstoeatwithaspoon
Thisrecipesoundsimpossible:thelambiscookedathighheatformorethanfivehours.Notonlydoesitwork,buttheresultsaresuperb.WhenItalkedtomeat
scientistsaboutit,noonecouldtellmewhyitworksthewayitdoes.Athinpanoraninsufficientlytightlidwillresultindry,overcookedmeat.Ilearnedthemethod
fromPatriciaWells.Thedistinctiveuseofvinegar,whichcutssowonderfullythroughtherichnessofthelamb,comesfromMichaelRoberts,cookbookwriterand
formerchefatTrumpsandatTwinPalms.Iputthewholethingtogether,addedthelentilsandthenwonderedalot.

6
1
5
3
2
1
2
2

poundsonions,sliced
poundcarrots,sliced
garliccloves,sliced
(5to6pound)legoflamb,hipboneremoved(thebutcherwilldothis)
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
cupswater
tablespoonstomatopaste
cupsredwinevinegar,plusmoretotaste
(750milliliter)bottledryredwine
cupslentils,preferablylentilsduPuy,pickedoverandrinsed
teaspoonsmincedfreshherbs,preferablythymeandrosemary

Preheattheovento425degrees.
Scattertheonions,carrotsandtwothirdsofthegarlicacrossthebottomofalarge,heavyDutchoven.Placethelambskinsideupontop.Roast,uncovered,for15
minutes.Turnthelambsotheskinsideisdownandroast,uncovered,foranother15minutes.Removethepotfromtheoven,butleavetheovenon.
Seasonthelambgenerouslywithsaltandpepper,thenturnandseasontheotherside(theskinsideshouldagainbeup).Mix1cup

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ofthewaterandthetomatopasteuntilsmooth.Pouroverthelamb,alongwiththevinegarandthewine.Bringtoaboilontopofthestove.
Placeasheetofaluminumfoilover,butnottouching,thesurfaceofthemeat.Coverthepottightlyandreturnittotheoven.Roastuntilthemeatbeginstofalloffthe
boneandaforkpenetratesitveryeasily,5to6hours.Bastethelambeveryhourtostart,thenevery30minutesastheliquidreduces.Bytheend,youshouldcheck
every15minutesitwillwanttoscorch.Donotturnthelamb,butoccasionallypushitfromsidetosidetokeepitfromscorching.
About1hourbeforeserving,combinethelentils,theremaining4cupswater,1teaspoonsaltandtheremaininggarlicinalargesaucepan.Bringtoaboil,reducethe
heatandsimmeruntilthelentilsaretender,about45minutes.Drain.
Whenthelambisdone,addthelentilstothepotalongwiththeherbs,stirringtocombinethecookingjuicesandthelentils.Donotturnthelamb,andstircarefullyto
avoidbreakingupthemeat.Returnthepottotheovenandroast,covered,for5minuteslonger.
Removefromtheovenandadjusttheseasonings.Thelentilsshouldbetartiftheyarenot,add1to2tablespoonsvinegar.Serveimmediately.
8servings

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braisedlambshankswithgreenolives
Becarefultobrownthelambshanksslowly,ortheoutsidewilldryoutduringthebraising.

4
2
2
1
1
1
2

2
1
1
2
2

lambshanks(about4pounds)
Salt
tablespoonsoliveoil
mediumcarrots,chopped
stalkcelery,chopped
mediumyellowonion,chopped
greenbellpepper,cored,seededandchopped
garliccloves,chopped
cuptomatopaste
cupsdryredwine
cupunpittedgreenolives
Freshlygroundblackpepper
tablespoonchoppedfreshrosemary
teaspoonsgratedlemonzest
tablespoonsmincedfreshparsley

Patthelambshanksdrywithpapertowelsandsaltthemliberallyonallsides.HeattheoilinalargecastironDutchovenovermediumheat.Whentheoilishotenough
sothatthemeatinstantlysizzleswhenitisaddedtothepan,browntheshanksonallsides.Youmayneedtodothisin2batches,dependingonthesizeofthepan.As
theshanksarebrowned,transferthemtoaplateandkeepwarm.Itshouldtakeabout30minutestobrownall4shanksin2batches.
Preheattheovento350degrees.
Drainallbutafilmoffatfromthepot.Addthecarrots,celery,onionandgreenpepperandcook,stirring,untilthevegetablesbegintosoften,about10minutes.Add
thegarlicandcook,stirring,untilitbecomesveryfragrant,about5minutes.Addthetomatopasteand

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cook,stirring,untilyouseedarkstreaksacrossthebottomofthepanwherethepasteisbrowning,about5minutes.Addthewineandstirtocombinewell.
Placetheshanksontopofthevegetables.Looselycoverwithaluminumfoil,covertightlywithalidandbakefor45minutes.
Removethelidandaluminumfoilandaddtheolivesandagoodgrindingofpepper.Stirtomixwell.Turntheshanksandcheckthelevelofliquid:itshouldjustcover
thevegetablesandthebottomsoftheshanks.Addsomewaterifnecessary.Cover,returntotheovenandbakeuntilthelambistenderenoughtofalloffthebone,
another45to60minutes.
Removefromtheoven,turntheshanksagainandaddtherosemary.Coverandsetasidefor5to10minutes,thenseasontotastewithsalt.
Choptogetherthelemonzestandparsley.Servetheshankswithsomesauceandwiththelemonparsleycombinationsprinkledoverthetop.
4servings

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ragnapoletano
ThisisoldfashionedItaliancooking.Afterfivehoursofcooking,theragtastesofneithertomatoesnormeatbutofsomethingelseentirely.Forarealtreat,servethe
saucewithfreshpastathenservetheslicedporkafterward(orlaterintheweek)withabittergreensuchasbroccolirabe.Thisrecipewillserveacrowd,andthe
leftoversfreezewell.

4
4
1
2
1
3
2
2
1
6
4

poundpancetta,cubed
mediumyellowonions,coarselychopped
garliccloves,peeled
bunchfreshparsley
tablespoonsoliveoil
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
(4to5pound)porkbuttroast,trimmedofanybonesandtied
cupsheartydryredwine
(6ounce)canstomatopaste
(16ounce)canscrushedtomatoes
poundItaliansausagemeat,crumbled
poundsfreshordriedfettuccine
tablespoons(stick)butter,cutup
FreshlygratedpecorinoRomanocheeseforserving

Grindtogetherthepancetta,onions,garlicandparsleyinameatgrinderorafoodprocessor.
WarmtheoilinaDutchovenoverlowheatandaddthegroundpancettamixture.Cook,stirringfrequently,untiltheonionssoftenandbecomefragrant,about20
minutes.
Liberallysaltandpeppertheporkandaddittothepot.Coverandcook,turningonce,forabout1hourdonotscorch.
Addthewine,coverandcookuntilthewinereducestoaboutonefourth,about1hour.

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Addthetomatopaste,2to3tablespoonsatatime,stirringbetweenadditions,untilthesauceissmooth.Coverandcookuntilthesauceisdarkandsavory,about1
hour.
Addthetomatoesandcookuntiltheporkisfallingaparttender,about1morehour.Removetheporkandreserveforanothermeal.
Addthesausageandcookfor1morehour.
Shortlybeforeserving,cookthepastainplentyofrapidlyboilingsaltedwateruntiltender,about5minutesforfreshpastaand10minutesfordried,oraccordingto
packageinstructions.Drainandtransfertoalargemixingbowl.
Addthebutterand10cupsofthesaucetothepasta.Tosswelltocombine,addingmoresauceifnecessary,justtocoatthepasta.Serveinindividualbowls,each
toppedwithanothercupofthesauceandasprinklingofcheese.
10servings

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meatloavesandsausages
Starchyfillers(breadorcrackercrumbs)notonlyfunctionasextendersbutalsoabsorbandholdinflavorfuljuices.

Usingacombinationofmeatsinmeatloafgivesyouafullerflavored,moisterdish.Tryamixtureofhalfgroundbeefandaquartereachofporkandveal(byweight).

Makingsausagesathomeisasimpleprocess,especiallyifyouhaveagoodmeatgrinderwithasausagestufferattachment.Sausagecanalsobeservedasafried
patty.

Sausagemeatshouldcontainabout30percentfattokeepitmoist.Thesimplestwaytoensurethisistouseporkbutt,whichhasapproximatelythatproportion.

Coldisthekeytomakingasausagewithgoodtexture.Keepthemeatwellchilleduntiljustbeforeyourereadytostart(stickthecubedmeatinthefreezerfor15to
20minutes).Sincethemechanicalactionofthegrindingwillheatthemeatup,returnthemeattotherefrigeratorbetweengrindings.Chillthemeatthoroughlybefore
stuffingthesausageskins.

Grindthemeatwelltobreakdownanytoughfibersandtoemulsifytheleanandthefatintoasmoothpaste.

Makesurethemeatiswellseasonedbeforeyouputitinthesausagecasingsorformitintoameatloaf.Totest,takeasmallamount,flattenitintoapattyandsaut
itthencorrecttheseasoningsifnecessary.

Rememberthatthemeatwillswellfromtheheatwhensausagesarecooked.Cookthemgentlytokeepthemfromsplittingandlosingalltheflavorfulfat.Poachthem
inwellseasonedliquid(water,wineorbeer)untiltheyfeelfirm.Thenfryorgrill,ifyoulike.

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wildmushroommeatloaf
Acombinationofmeats(halfbeef,onequartereachporkandveal)givesmeatloafthemostcomplexflavorandthemostpleasingtexture.Crackercrumbsarethebest
extendertheyhaveabettertexturethanoatmealorbreadcrumbs.Allowcupperpoundofmeat.Youcanalterthebasiccombinationofmeat,crackersandeggs
byaddingmanydifferentflavoringsevenplainoldfashionedketchupontop.

3
1
1
2
1
1
1
2
1
1
2
1
2
1
1

ouncesdriedwildmushrooms,preferablymorels
cupdryredwine
tablespoonoliveoil
mediumcarrots,coarselychopped
stalkcelery,coarselychopped
mediumyellowonion,coarselychopped
garlicclove,minced
poundsgroundbeef,preferably15%fat
poundgroundpork
poundgroundveal
teaspoonsfreshthymeleaves
teaspoonmincedfreshrosemary
largeeggs
cupcrackercrumbs
tablespoonsalt
Freshlygroundblackpepper

Simmerthemushroomsandwineinasmallsaucepanoverlowheatuntilthemushroomssoften,15to20minutesdrain.Whenthemushroomsarecoolenoughto
handle,chopthemandsetaside.
Preheattheovento350degrees.
Heattheoilinamediumsautpanoverhighheat.Whenitisveryhot,addthecarrotsandcook,withoutstirring,for2to3minutes,untiltheybegintodarken.Toss
andstirtopreventthemfromstickingandcookfor2to3minutesmore.Reducetheheattomedium,addthe

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celeryandstirandcookfor2to3minutes.Addtheonionandstirandcookfor2to3minutes.Finally,addthegarlic,stirandremovefromtheheat.Letcool.
Inalargemixingbowl,thoroughlymixthebeef,porkandveal,squeezingthemeatmixturebetweenyourfingerstomakesurenoclumpsremain.Addthecooked
vegetables,mushrooms,thymeandrosemarystirwelltocombine.Addtheeggsandmixlightlybutthoroughly,usingyourhands.Sprinkleinthecrackercrumbsand
mix,againbyhand,untilallthecrumbsareabsorbed.Addthesaltandaddpeppertotaste.
Formthemeatintoaroughloafshapeinashallowbakingpan.Bakeuntiltheoutsideisbrownedandtheinteriortemperaturereaches150degrees,abouthours.
Transfertoaplatter,sliceandserve.
10to12servings

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spicygarlicsausages
Thisisoneofmyfavoritesausages.Itswonderfulbyitselforinotherdishes.Sausagecasingscanbefoundatspecialtybutchers.Ifyoudonthavethem,youcanform
thesausagesintopattiesandcookthemthatway.

3
1
1

poundsbonelessporkbutt,coarselyground
cupdrywhitewine
garliccloves,pressedorminced
teaspooncrushedredpepper
tablespoonsalt
Sausagecasings(optional)

Combinethemeat,wine,garlic,crushedredpepperandsaltinabowlandstirwelltomixthoroughly.Refrigerateforatleast1hour,untilwellchilled.
Stuffthemixtureintocasings,ifdesired,orformitintopatties.
Prickthesausagesandpoachtheminsimmeringwateruntilcookedthrough,about10minutes,orpanfrythepatties.Theycanbefinishedonthegrillorinatomato
sauce,ifyoulike.Servehot.
8servings

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lamb,orangezestandrosemarysausages
Ipreferthissausagestuffedintonarrowcasings.Itmakesanicepresentationifyoustuffitintoa2to3footlengthandthenformitintoacoil.Acoupleofskewers
insertedatrightangleswillholdthecoiltogetherduringcooking.Ifyoucantfindcasings,thismakesanicepattysausageaswell.ServeitwithaMoroccanstylecarrot
slaw.

1
1

1
4
2
1

poundlambstewmeat,coarselyground
poundbonelessporkbutt,coarselyground
cupdryredwine
Gratedzestof1orange
tablespoonmincedfreshrosemary
garliccloves,pressedorminced
teaspoonssalt
teaspooncrushedredpepper
Sausagecasings(optional)

Combinethelamb,pork,wine,orangezest,rosemary,garlic,saltandcrushedredpepperinabowlandstirwelltomixthoroughly.Refrigerateforatleast1hour,until
wellchilled.
Stuffthespicedmeatintosausagecasings,ifdesired,orformitintopatties.
Prickthesausagesandpoachtheminsimmeringwateruntilcookedthrough,about10minutes,orpanfrythepatties.Theycanbefinishedonthegrill,ifyoulike.Serve
hot.
8servings

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smokerlesssmokedbratwurst
Ilovesmokedbratwurst,butnothavingasmokehouse,Ithoughtmakingthemwasimpossible.ThenIdecidedtousealittleofthesmokedporkloinfoundinmany
supermarkets.

poundbonelessporkbutt,finelyground
poundvealstewmeat,finelyground
poundslicedsmokedporkloin,finelyground
Freshlygratednutmeg
teaspooncarawayseeds,ground
Pinchofdriedmarjoram
teaspoonssalt
cupicewater
Sausagecasings(optional)

Combinethegroundporkbutt,vealandsmokedporkandfinelygrindtogetherasecondtime.Placeinabowl,addagratingofnutmeg,thegroundcaraway,
marjoram,saltandwaterandstirwelltomixthoroughly.Refrigerateforatleast1hour,untilwellchilled.
Stuffthemeatintocasings,ifdesired,orformitintopatties.
Prickthesausagesandpoachtheminsimmeringwateruntilcookedthrough,about10minutes,orpanfrythepatties.Theycanbefinishedonthegrill,ifyoulike.Serve
hot.
6servings

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six:
fat,flourandfear
Fearisanaturalpartofcooking.Afterall,thereareallthosehotpansandsharpknives.And,ohyes,letsnotforgetthepiecrusts.Infact,inthehierarchyofkitchen
phobias,whostosaythatpiecrustsarenttheworst?Wedealwithburnersandknivesalmosteverytimewecooksomething,butitispreciselybecausewemake
piecrustssorarelythattheyhavethepowertoinspiredreaddisproportionatetotheiractualdifficulty.Apiecrustaintnothinbutflour,fatandwater,right?That,of
course,isdisingenuous.Itisbecausetheingredientsaresobasicthatpiecrustsaresodifficult.Theyarealmosttotallydependentontechnique,andtechniqueisnot
somethingthatyoucanpickuponaquicktriptothegrocerystore.Theonlywaytolearnhowtomakeagoodpiecrustistomakeenoughbadonesthatyoufinally
acquirebothanunderstandingandafeelforhowagoodoneismade.Noonecanhelpyougetthefeelwithoutstandingbesideyouforeverymotion.Butthe
understandingpartisdifferent.
Therearetwobasictypesofpiecrust.Forwantofbetternames,wellcallthemAmericanandEuropean.MostpeoplestartwiththeAmerican.Theywanttomakean
applepieinthefalloracherrypieinthespring.Itwouldneveroccurtothemtotrytomakeoneofthose

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fancyfruittarts.Thatsamistake:fruittartsareactuallymucheasiertomakeatleast,thecrustis.Inthelanguageofpastrypeople,Americanpiedoughsareflaky,
andEuropeantartdoughsareshort,meaningtheyhaveatexturethatsclosertoacookiethantopuffpastry.ThequestforthatallAmericanflakinessisattheheartof
mostpeoplesproblemswithpastry.Togetitright,youhavetomixthethreekeyingredientsflour,waterandfattogetherinjusttherightway.Asfarasthecrust
isconcerned,oneofthoseglitteringfruittartsintheptisserieswindowiseasierthanpie.
Attheheartofanycrustisflourandwater.Thefatistheretomediatetherelationshipbetweenthetwo.Whenflourandwateraremixedtogether,acoupleofproteins
gluteninandgliadinlinkupandformgluten.Ifyouvemadebread,youknowwhatthisis.Itsthelong,stringysheetsthatprovidethestructureforthebread
theyformtheballoonsthattheyeasttheninflates.Differentflourscontaindifferentamountsofprotein,dependinguponthevarietyofwheat,theclimateitsgrownin
andhowitismilled.Hardwinterwheatsfromthenorthernplainscontainthehighestamountofprotein(about12.5percent)andwillproducethegreatestamountof
gluten.Instores,thisflourisusuallysoldasbreadflour,thoughagooddealofitwindsupindriedItalianpastasaswell.Semolina,whichisfamiliarfrompasta
packages,ismilledfromdurumwheatoneofthehighestinproteinandhasapercentageofgreaterthan13percent.Allpurposeflour,thekindthatismost
commonlyavailable,ismadefromeitherallhardwheatorablendofhardandsoftwheatstoproduceaproteincontentofabout10.5percent.Thisistheflourusedfor
mostkindsofbaking.Unbleachedflourissimplyallpurposeflourthathasnotbeentreatedtowhitenit.Ithasaboutthesamepercentageofproteinasallpurpose.
Cakeflourandpastryflourcomefromsoftwheatsandarefinelymilled.Theyhaveproteincontentsofabout7.5percent.Wholewheatflourisonlyalittle

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strongerthancakeorpastryflourthebitsofhullleftbehindinthemillinginhibittheformationofgluten.
Whileitmightseemthataflourwithahighproteincontentisdesirableformakingpiecrusts(afterall,itstheglutensheetsthattraptheairandcreatethepuff),thisisa
caseofmorenotnecessarilybeingbetter.Toomuchprotein,andtheglutensheetsaretoostrong.Thenyouvegotapiecrustthatstoughenoughtodeflectbullets.This
isnottosaythatbreadflourshouldneverbeusedforpastries.Itsgreatforstrudel,wherethedoughisstretchedthinenoughtoreadthroughyouneedalotof
glutentoavoidwindingupwithapastrysheetfullofholes.Ingeneral,though,thebestflourtouseforpastriesiseitherallpurposeorpastryflour.Sincepastryflour
canbehardtofindinsupermarkets,pastryqueenauthorRoseLevyBeranbaumcameupwithanacceptablesubstitute:amixtureoftwothirdsallpurposeflourand
onethirdwholewheatflour.Theaverageoftheproteincontentsislowenoughtowork.
Glutenistoughstuff.Rolloutasheetofpasta,anditwillliterallyshrinkbackunderneathyourrollingpin.Itsalmostlikefightingsomethingalive.Infact,ifyousimply
mixflourandwater,withoutanyfat,youwindupwithsomethinglikedriedpasta.Thatsnobodysideaofagoodpiecrust.Soweaddfat,whichworkstoprevent
thoselongglutenstringsfromforming.Addedtotheflourbeforethewatergoesin,itcoatstheflourgranules,essentiallywaterproofingthestarchsothatwhenthe
waterisaddedandthedoughisworked,thoseglutenstrandshaveamuchhardertimedeveloping.ThatistrueforbothAmericanandEuropeandoughs.
Wherethetwodifferisinthewaythefatisadded.InEuropeandoughs,thefatisthoroughlycutintotheflourbeforethewatergoesin.Inmakingoneofthese,you
wanttheflourandfatcombinationtoresemblecoarsecornmealbeforeyoubeginaddingthewater.Youshouldnotbeabletoseeanybitsoffatatall.InAmerican
doughs,youwanttostopworkingthefatinat

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aboutthehalfwaymark.Theflourandfatcombinationshouldbecomepeasizedbits,withlittleclumpsoffatremainingunmixed.Americandoughsareallabout
compromise.Youwantenoughglutentoformtheflakyframework,butyoudontwantenoughtomakethepiecrusttough.Theflakinesscomesfromthoselittlechunks
offatthatarewrappedupinthethinglutenframework.Whenthecrustbakes,thefatmelts,leavingairfilledgapsintheframework.Furthermore,anywaterthatthefat
containsconvertstosteam,puffingthegapsevenbigger.Thoseairygapsinthedelicateglutensheetsarethesecrettoaflakypastry.
Obviously,werecallingforfattodotwofairlycontradictorythingsherecoverthestarchgranulesthoroughlyyetremainintactenoughtocreatesteampockets
duringbaking.Thefirstisafunctionofthefatsshorteningpoweritsabilitytocoverasurfaceandblockwater.Themoreunsaturatedthefat,thebetteritdoesthis.
Oilisveryeffective.Butifyouveevermadeapiecrustwithjustoil,youknowthattheresultsarefarfromflaky.Infact,theyreusuallytoughandgrainy.Forpiecrust,
youneedasolidfatbutter,margarine,shorteningorlard.Eachhasitsstrengthsanditsdrawbacks.Lardcanbethebestfatforapiecrustbecauseitsfatcrystalsare
largerandwillcreategreaterflakiness.Unfortunately,mostcommerciallyrenderedlardtastesbad(ifyouevergetachancetotryapiecrustmadewithgoodquality
lard,jumpatit).Shorteningandmargarinearegoodchoicesforpiecrustsbecausetheyhavetheunusualabilitytomaintainthesametextureatawiderangeof
temperatures.Thereislittlemeltingorsofteningintheearlystagesofheating.Furthermore,shorteningandmargarineare100percentfattheycontainnowater,so
thereislesschanceofthecrusttoughening.Butterisweakerinallthesedesirablequalities.Itishighlysaturated,soitsshorteningpowerislower.Itishighlychangeable
intexture.Itmustbechilledafterrollinginordertomaintainitsstructureintheoven.Anditcontainsasmuchas15percentwater,whichcanmakethecrusttough.On
theotherhand,ithasabsolutelysuperbflavor.

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Somebakersrecommendablendofbutterandshorteningtogetthebestofbothworlds.Butthereisnocomparingtheflavorofthatblendwithapurebutterpastry.
Mostbakersfeelthatusingallbutterisworththeextraeffort.
Youcangetalittleclearerunderstandingofhowallthesethingsworkbyexaminingthedifferentingredientsusedinothertypesofdoughs.Forexample,thedifference
betweenasheetofpastaandaloafofbreadisthatthebreadisleavened.Inonewayoranother,airhasbeenincorporatedtomakethedoughlighter(inthecaseof
mostbreads,theleaveneristheorganismyeast,whichdigestssugarandproducescarbondioxide).Butasidefrombreadsbeinglighterandairierbecauseofthe
leavener,theglutenstructuresofthetwoareaboutthesame.Thedifferencebetweenpastaandpastryisthatthepastrycontainsfarmorefat,shorteningthegluten
strandsandslightlyleaveningthedough.Thedifferencebetweenapastrydoughandacookieisthatthecookieisusuallyleavenedandcontainsfarmoresugar,which
robswaterfromtheglutenstrands,shorteningthemevenfurtherandcreatingatexturethatiscrumblyratherthanflaky.Cakesaredelicatebecausetheyaremadewith
fatandsugaraswellasanotherleavenerjustbeatingthefatandsugartogethertocreateairpocketsprovidessomeleavening.
Whileyouwanttodevelopsomegluteninaflakypiecrust,youwantonlysomuch.Toomuch,andthecrustwillbetough,sohardyoucantcutitwithaknife.Thefirst
secrettolimitingthedevelopmentofglutenistoworkthedoughaslittleaspossible.Remember:glutenisformedbywaterandflourcombinedwithmechanicalaction.
Handlethedoughlightlyandgently.Rollitoutinasfewstrokesaspossibleanddontrerollflakydoughunlessitsabsolutelynecessary.Youcanfurtherreducethe
glutendevelopmentbyaddingsomesugartotheflourbeforeaddingthewaterthesugarwillrobwaterfromtheflour,limitingthedevelopmentofthegluten.Adding
abitofvinegarorlemonjuice

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willalsowork,sinceanacidenvironmentdiscouragesglutendevelopment.Restingthedoughperiodicallyhelpstoo.Whenthedoughhasbeenworked,thegluten
strandstighten,makingthemhardertostretch.Ifthedoughbeginsshrinkingbackwhileyourerollingitout,popitintotherefrigeratorfor10or15minutesandthe
glutenwillrelax.Thenyoucanproceedmuchmoreeasily.
Ofcourse,acrustisnomoreapiethanahouseisahome.Tomakeitcomplete,acrustneedsafilling.Thesefillingstakemyriadforms,fromthesimplestjamtartto
thefanciestcustard.Thetypeoffillingwilldictatetoacertainextentthetypeofcrustyouuse.Flakypiedoughsarebestwhenyouwanttopcrusts,aswithfruitpies.
Useashortcrustforcustardpiesandfortartsthatdonthaveatopcrust.Shortcrustsareespeciallygoodwithmoistfillingsthewaterproofingabilityofthefat
worksinmorewaysthanone.
Thoughsweetpiecrustsarethemostbasiccombinationofsugar,flourandbutter,theyarefarfromtheonlyones.Infact,thosethreeingredientsdefinejustaboutevery
kindofpastryknowntomanfromthelightest,mostdelicatecaketothecrunchiestcookie.Obviously,thatistoobigachunkofcookingtocovercomfortably.
Instead,letsconcentrateondoughs,whichwecanlooselydefineasthosepastriesinwhichthesolidingredientsoutweightheliquid.Toputitmoresimply,those
pastriesthatstartoutsolidratherthanliquid.
Themostobviousconnectionisbetweenpiecrustsandcookiedoughs.Whenyoulookatrecipesforcookiedoughs,thefirstthingthatmaystrikeyouistheirsimilarity
topiedoughs.Infact,manycookiedoughscouldworkaspiedoughs.Inthereverse,whatcouldbebetterormorecookielikethanfreshlybakedscrapsofpie
doughdustedwithcinnamonsugar?Thenextthingyoullprobablynoticeistheadditionofeitherbakingpowderorbakingsoda.Theseleavenersintroducecarbon
dioxidegasintodoughsbychemicalreaction,makingthemlighter.Thisisimpor

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tantifadoughisgoingtobeverythick.Acookiedoughbakedwithoutleavener,suchasshortbread,willstilltasteprettygood,butitwillbeashardasabrick.More
isnotbetter,ofcourse.Toomuchleavenercanpuffacookietoridiculousheights,givingitatexturemorelikethatofacake.Nocrunchthere.
Bakingsodatechnicallybicarbonateofsodaistheoriginalchemicalleavener.Whenitisaddedtoanacidicbatteronethatcontainssomethinglikebuttermilk,
forexampleachemicalreactionoccursthatproducesairbubbles.(Remembertheelementaryschoolscienceprojectwhereyoucombinedbakingsodaand
vinegar?)Theseairbubblesarethencaughtintheglutennetworkofthebatter.Whenheated,theyexpand,makingthebatterlighter.Themostcommonacidifiersare
dairybased,likesourcream,yogurtandbuttermilk.Butthereareotheringredientsthatwillworkaswell.Honey,forexample,ismoreacidicthananyofthedairy
basedproducts.Molasses,regularcocoaandchocolatearealmostasacidic.Soarebananas,aslongastheyarentoverripe.Asyoucansee,thenecessityofincluding
oneofthoseacidifiersnarrowstherangeofpossibilitieswhenitcomestobakingcookies.Thatswherebakingpowdercomesin.
Inventedalittlemorethan100yearsago,bakingpowderisbakingsodacombinedwithachemicalacidifier,soyoudontneedtoaddanyacidingredients.Most
bakingpowderstodayaredoubleacting.Thismeansthattheybegintoformairbubblesbothwhentheyarefirstcombinedwithaliquidandthenagainwhentheyare
heated.Bakingpowderwillloseitsleaveningpowerratherquickly(withinamatterof,say,sixmonths,dependingonstorageconditions).Totestyourbakingpowder,
simplyputsomeinabowlwithalittlewater.Itshouldbubbleandfoam,kindoflikethatelementaryschoolexperiment.
Thereisanotherwaytogetthoseairbubblesintoadough,butitsalottrickierandhenceisonlyoccasionallyusedbyitselfanymore.However,manyrecipesstill
beginbyhavingyoucreambutterandsugartogetherbeforeyouaddaleavener.

Page292
Whatexactlydoescreamingmeanandwhyisitsoimportant?Creamingbutterandsugarmeanstobeatthemtogetheruntiltheyarethoroughlymixed.Whilethe
obviouseffectofthisistosoftenthebutterandmakeitspreadableandcapableofabsorbingtheflourwhenitisadded,thereisanotherpurposeaswell,onlyitsalittle
hardertosee.Ifyouweretolookatcreamedbutterandsugarunderamagnifyingglass,youwouldseethatthesharpedgesofthosesugargrainshavecreatedgapsin
thebutterholes,reallyfilledwithair.Again,whenthatairisheatedduringbaking,itwillexpand,makingthebakeddoughlighter.
Theotherdifferenceyoullnoticeisthatingeneral,therearesimplyalotmoreingredientsincookiedoughsthaninpiedoughs.Whilethebasicpiecrustisoftennothing
morethanflour,fat,sugarandalittleliquid,cookiesarejazzedupwithallkindsofthings,fromchoppedorgroundnutsandfruittochocolatechips.Inreality,you
couldaddanyofthesethingstoapiedoughaswell.Theonlyrestrictionisoneofgoodtaste.Nutscanbeaddedtoespeciallygoodeffect,aslongastheyarerather
finelyground.Forabasic9inchpie,youcanaddasmuchastocupofgroundnutswithoutremovinganyflourorhavingtomakeanyfurthersubstitutionsor
changestotherecipe.Alittleofthebitternessofcocoacanbenicetoo,dependingonthefilling.Adduptocupforthesamesizedpie.
Whateveryouredoingtothatpiecrust,though,doitcarefullyandwithconfidence.Remember,pastrysensesfear.

Page293

crusts,piesandtarts
Theeasiesttypeofpiecrustforabeginnertomakeisatart,orshort,crust.Forthiscrust,thefatisthoroughlyworkedintotheflourbeforethewaterisadded.
Usuallythebaseforopenfaced,Europeanstyletarts,thispastrycanbeusedforanytypeoftartorpie.

Usingallorpartpastry,orsoft,flourwillproduceatenderercrust.

Addinganacid,suchasvinegar,andalittlesugarcanmakeapiecrustshorterandmoretender.Itdoesnttakemuchofeitheringredient2to3teaspoonsofacid
orupto2tablespoonsofsugarforadoublecrustpie.

Butterhasthebestcombinationofflavorandthephysicalqualitiesthatcontributetoflakiness,butitismoredifficulttoworkwiththanotherfats.Youcansubstitute
anysolidfatsuchaslardorvegetableshorteningforpartorallofthebutter.

Takeyourtimewhenmakingpiecrust.Besurealltheingredientsarewellchilledbeforehand,andstopfromtimetotimetochillthedoughifitstartstogetwarm.This
isespeciallyimportantafterboththekneadingandtherolling,whenallthephysicalactionismostlikelytodevelopgluten.

Forashortcrustdough,workthefatinwellenoughsothatyoudonotseeanyflecksofit.Foraflakycrustdough,leavethepiecesoffatinsmallchunks.Thesewill
melt,creatingsteampocketsandmakingthepastryflaky.Youshouldbeabletoseepiecesoffatinthedoughwhenitisrolledout.

Becausethemoisturecontentofbutterandflourcanvary,addthewateralittlebitatatime.Stopwhenyouseethedoughstarttoformlargishclumps.Pressapiece
ofthedoughinyourhand.Thedoughshouldhavethetextureofmodelingclayandshouldnotcrackattheedges.Ifitdoescrack,addjustalittlemorewaterandtest
again.

Page294
Oncethedoughhasbeguntocometogether,removeitfromthebowlandgatheritintoalooseball.Kneaditlightlyonlyoneortwotimeswithyourhandthe
doughshouldbesmooth,notgrainy.Thenformitintoadisk,wrapitandrefrigerateituntilyourereadytorollitout.

Ifachilleddoughistoohardtorolloutwhenyouremoveitfromtherefrigerator,softenitbywhackingitacrossthetopseveraltimeswitharollingpin.Thisshould
restoresomeplasticitywithoutmeltingthefat.

Whenrollingoutapiedough,besuretomovetherollingpinacrossthedoughratherthanpressingdownonit.Keeprotatingthedoughandkeepitwellflouredto
preventsticking.Whenyoufinishrollingitout,brushawayanyexcessflour.

Toplacerolledoutdoughinapieplateortartpanwithoutcrackingthedough,rollitupontothepinandthenunrollitintotheplateorpan.Formtherim,thenchillit
inthefreezerfor10to15minutestoallowtheglutentorelax,topreventshrinking.

If,despiteyourbestefforts,thedoughstillcracksandbreaksapart,dontworry.Almostanypiecrustcanbemendedsimplybypatchingandpressingthepiecesof
doughtogether.

Coverthedoughwithasheetofaluminumfoilandfillthefoilwithsomekindofheatconductingmaterial,suchascopperpenniesorbeansorrice,whichwillholdthe
doughinplaceandhelpittobrown.Baketheshelluntilthedoughhasbrowned,about10minutes,thenremovetheweightsandaluminumfoilandcontinuebakinguntil
theinterioroftheshellhasbrowned,10to15minutesmore.

Forfruittarts,thefillingisusuallycookedseparatelyorusedraw.Forfruitpies,thefruitisnormallycookedinthecrust.

Whenusingcookedfruit,makesurethatitiswelldrainedsoyoudontgetasoggycrust.Forrawfruit,sugaritinadvance,

Page295

thendrainawayanyjuicesthataredrawnout.Ifusingarawfruitfilling,youllusuallyincludealayerofsomekindofmeltedjelly,eitherasalinerforthepastryorasa
glossytoppingforthefruititself.

Fruitthatiscookedinthepiecrustneedssomekindofthickenertoabsorbtheliquidthatwillbecookedout.Flouristheeasiesttouseandgivesanicefirmset,butit
willmakethefillingcloudyandcanimpartapastytaste.Cornstarchiscrystalclear,butitcanmakethefillingtoofirm.Tapiocaisthehappymediumandhastheadded
advantageofbeingthoroughlycookedatalowertemperature.Whateverthethickener,youneedatopcrusttosealintheheat,oryoullhaverawstarchinthepie.

Thereisnofirmruleforhowmuchsugarandhowmuchthickenertouseforagivenamountoffruit.Differentfruitsvaryintheamountofwatertheycontain,andeven
thesamekindoffruitwillvarywiththeseasonandwithhowlongithasbeenstored.Asageneralrule,allow4to5cupsfruit,aboutcupsugarand3tablespoons
thickenerfora9inchpie.

Alwaysbakeafruitpieimmediatelyafterfilling,tokeepthebottomcrustfromabsorbingtoomuchliquidandbecomingsoggy.

Cobblersandcrispsarebyfartheeasiestbakedfruitdessertstomake,sinceneitherhasabottomcrusttogetsoggy.Becauseofthis,gettingtheproperratiooffruit
tothickenerisnotascritical.Acobblerissimplyaninvertedpiecookedfruitonthebottom,flakypastrycrustontop.Crispsareeveneasier,becausethetoppingis
sosimpletoputtogether:Foran11X8inchbakingdish,mixtogethercupflourorgroundnutsandcupeachofbutterandsugaruntilclumpsform,thenscatter
thetoppingoverthefruit.Bakeat400degreesuntilthefruitisthickenedandbubblingandthetoppingiscrispandbrown.

Page296
shortcrustpastry
Thoroughlymixingthebutterandtheflouristhehallmarkofshortcrustpastry.Thisisthedoughtousewithopenfacedtarts.

1
1
8
23

cupsallpurposeflour,plusextraforrolling
tablespoonsugar
Pinchofsalt
tablespoons(1stick)coldunsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing
tablespoonsicewater

Combinetheflour,sugar,saltandbutterinafoodprocessororlargebowlandcutthemtogetheruntilthemixtureresemblescoarsecornmeal.Addthewater1
tablespoonatatime,stirringconstantlyorprocessinguntilthemixturejustbeginstocometogether.Removethedoughfromthebowlandkneaditlightlyandbrieflyto
makeasmoothmass.Wrapitinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast30minutes.
Onawellflouredworksurface,rolloutthedoughintoacircleroughly11inchesindiameter.Rollthedoughbackontotherollingpinandtransferittoabuttered9
inchtartpanwitharemovablebottom.Unrollthedoughandgentlypressitintothepan.Trimtheexcessdoughto1inchfromthepanedgesandfoldtheextradough
overitselfbetweenthepanandthedoughrimtomakeasturdier,talleredge.Refrigeratefor30minutes.
Preheattheovento425degrees.
Toprebakethetartcrust:Bakethecrustuntilitisfirmandtherimbeginstobrown,about10minutes.
Enoughforone9inchtart

Page297
flakypiecrust
Foraflakycrust,takecarenottocutthebuttertoofineandnottoovermixthedough.Thebuttershouldbeleftinrelativelylargechunks,aboutthesizeofpeas.Thisis
thedoughtousewithAmericanfruitpies.

8
23

cupsallpurposeflour,plusextraforrolling
teaspoonsalt
teaspoonbakingpowder
tablespoons(1stick)unsaltedbutter,wellchilled,cutinto8pieces
tablespoonsicewater

Tomixbyhand:Combinetheflour,saltandbakingpowderinalargebowlandstirwell.Addthebutterandtossonceortwicetocoatwithflour,thenuseyour
fingertips,twoknivesorapastryblendertocutthebutterintothedryingredients,continuouslypinchingandsqueezingthebutterintothedryingredients,orusea
pastryblender.Becarefultokeepthemixtureuniformbyoccasionallyreachingdowntothebottomofthebowlandmixingalltheingredientsevenlytogether.
Continuetheprocessuntilthepiecesofbutterandflourarenobiggerthanpeas.Scatter2tablespoonsofthewateroverthemixtureandstirgentlywithafork.The
doughshouldbegintoholdtogether.Ifitstillappearsdryandcrumbly,addsomeoralloftheremainingwater,1teaspoonatatime,untilthedoughholdstogether
easily.
Tomixinafoodprocessor:Combinetheflour,saltandbakingpowderandpulse3timestomixtogether.Addthebutterandprocess,pulsingabout15timesat1
secondintervals,untilthepiecesofflourandbutterarenobiggerthanpeas.
Scatter2tablespoonsofthewateroverthemixtureandpulse5or6times.Thedoughshouldbeginholdingtogether.Ifitstillappearsdryandcrumbly,addsomeorall
oftheremainingwater,1teaspoonatatime,untilthedoughholdstogethereasily.

Page298
Scrapethedoughontoalightlyflouredsurfaceandformitintoadisk.(Ifyouaredoublingtherecipe,formthedoughinto2equalsizeddisks.)Placethedough
between2piecesofplasticwrapandpressintoa6inchdisk.Refrigerateuntilfirm,atleast1hour,oruntilreadytouse.
Enoughforaonecrust9inchpie

Page299
rustictartcrust
ThisunusualrecipeisadaptedfromNancySilverton,thepastrygeniusatLosAngelesCampanilerestaurant.Itbreaksmanyoftherulesofpastrymaking,yetitisthe
easiestdoughIveeverfoundtoworkwith.Itmakesafairlycoarse,shortcrustthatisperfectforgalettesfreeformfruitpiesthataremadesimplybymoundingfruit
inthemiddleofacircleofdoughandthenfoldingtheedgesover.Itcanalsobemadeinthefoodprocessor,butbecarefulnottoovermix.

2
8
4
2

cupcakeflour,plusextraforrolling
cupbreadflour
tablespoonssugar
Dashofsalt
tablespoons(1stick)unsaltedbutter,wellchilled,cubed
teaspoonsicewater
teaspoonsvanillaextract

Combinethecakeflour,breadflour,sugarandsaltinalargebowlwithanelectricmixer.Distributethebutterevenlyoverthetopandmixonlowspeeduntilthe
mixtureresemblescoarsecornmeal.Donotovermix.
Alternatively,thebuttercanbeworkedinbyhand.Tossthecubeswiththedryingredientsandthenrubthecubesquicklyandlightlybetweenyourthumbsand
forefingersuntilthemixtureresemblescoarsecornmeal.Donotovermix.
Combinethewaterandvanillaandsprinkleallofitoverthedough.Mixonlowspeedorbyhandwithaforkuntilthedoughformsaroughballthatpullscleanlyaway
fromthesidesofthebowl.(Thistakesmuchlongerthanyoumightexpect,3to4minutes.)
Transferthedoughtoawellflouredworksurfaceorpastryboardandgentlybutfirmlykneadituntilitissmoothandnolongershaggyattheedges,2to3minutes.
Formthedoughintoaballandflattenitintoadisk.Wraptightlywithplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilverycold,atleast30minutes,beforerollingout.
Enoughforone9inchtart

Page300
rusticpeachtart
Dontrollthepastrytoothinitsaprimeattraction,notjustacontainerforfruit.

2
3
1

cupsslicedpeeledpeaches
tablespoonssugar
tablespooncornstarch
teaspoongroundcloves
RusticTartCrust(page299),chilled

Preheattheovento375degrees.
Combinethepeaches,sugar,cornstarchandclovesinamediumbowl,andtosswelluntilthecornstarchisnolongervisible.
Letthedoughsoftenslightly,ifnecessary.Onawellflouredsurface,rolloutthetartdoughintoacircleroughlyinchthick.Transferittoagreasedbakingsheet.
Spoonthepeachmixtureintothecenter,leavinga2inchborder.
Foldtheedgesofthedoughoverthepeachestoformafivesidedtart,withthepeachesshowinginthecenter:Foldoneedgeover,thenfoldthesecondedgeover,
pleatingthedoughasnecessaryandpressingfirmlyonthepleat.Repeatthreemoretimestoenclosethefilling.
Bakefor10minutes.Reducetheheatto350degreesandbakeuntilthecrustislightbrown,45to50minutes.Checkevery10minutestomakesurethecrustisnot
burningonthebottom,andreducetheheatto300degrees,ifnecessary.Coolbrieflytoletthejuicesset,thencutintowedgesandserve.
8servings

Page301
nectarineandalmondtart
Ilovethecombinationofalmondsandstonefruit.Thatwouldnotsurpriseabotanist,sincetheyarefirstcousins,bothmembersofthedrupefamily.Almondscomeina
thickfruitlikehuskthatisremovedduringprocessing.

1
1
1

cupsliveredalmonds
poundnectarines
tablespoonsugar,plusmorefordusting
tablespoonfreshlemonjuice
RusticTartCrust(page299),chilled
cupfreshraspberries

Preheattheovento375degrees.
Toastthealmondsonasmallbakingsheetintheovenuntilaromatic,about5minutes.Leavetheovenon.Coolthealmondsslightly,thencoarselygrindtheminafood
processor.Setaside.
Slicethenectarinesthinandtosstheminamixingbowlwiththesugarandlemonjuiceuntilthoroughlymixed.
Onawellflouredsurface,rolloutthepastrydoughinchthick.Transferthedoughtoagreasedbakingsheetorjellyrollpan.
Scatterthegroundalmondsoverthedough.Moundthenectarineslicesinaroughpileinthecenter.Scattertheraspberriesoverthetop.Foldtheedgesofthedough
overthenectarinestoformafivesidedtart,withthenectarinesshowinginthecenter:Foldoneedgeover,thenfoldthesecondedgeover,pleatingthedoughas
necessaryandpressingfirmlyonthepleat.Repeatthreemoretimestoenclosethefilling.Dustlightlywithsugar.
Bakefor10minutes.Reducetheheatto350degreesandbakeuntilthecrustislightbrown,about45minutes.Checkevery10minutestomakesurethecrustisnot
burningonthebottom,andreducetheheatto300degreesifnecessary.Coolbrieflytoletthejuicesset,thencutintowedgesandserve.
6servings

Page302
lavenderfigtart
Thisdessertistheessenceoflatesummer/earlyfallinLosAngeles.Theraspberryjamshouldjustcoverthebottomoftheshell,accentingthefigsratherthan
dominatingthem.Thesamecautionistrueforthelavender,whichtasteslikecheapperfumeifusedinexcess.

1
11
1

3
1
1

poundfreshfigs
cupsraspberryjam
tablespoonwater
Juiceoflemon
ShortCrustPastry(page296),baked
tablespoonssugar
tablespoonchoppedfreshlavenderleavesor
teaspoonfreshthymeleaves
Barelysweetenedwhippedcreamforserving

Preheattheovento425degrees.
Trimthestemsfromthefigsandcutcrossesintheirtops,goingdownnearlytothebottom,sothefigswillopenlikeflowers.Setaside.
Combinethejam,waterandlemonjuiceinasmallnonreactivesaucepanovermediumhighheatandheat,stirring,untilthejamissmoothandflowing.Thencookuntil
thejamisslightlythickened,about5minutes.Pourthemixturethroughastrainerintothebakedtartcrustandspreaditevenlyacrossthebottom.
Placethefigsinthetart,pressingthemopenfirstandarrangingthemtocoverasmuchofthebottomaspossible.Combinethesugarandlavenderorthymeinasmall
bowlandstirroughlytocombine.Strainoutthepiecesofherbandsprinkletheflavoredsugaroverthetopofthefigs.
Bakeuntilthefigssoften,about10minutes.Coolslightlyonarack.Removetherimofthepan,cutthetartintowedgesandservewithwhippedcream.
6to8servings

Page303
applecrisp
Youcanusethiscrispmixtureforalldifferentkindsoffruitsanythingfrompeachestorhubarbandstrawberries.ItssoeasytomakethatIbakeitmuchmore
frequentlythanImakepiesortarts.Thisisgreatwithvanillaicecream.

4
1

34

apples(preferablyGrannySmiths),peeled,coredandcutintoeighths
quince,quartered,coredandcoarselygrated
cupdarkorgoldenraisins,plumpedinbrandyorwarmwateranddrained
cupsugar
cupfinelygroundwalnuts
cupallpurposeflour
Dashofsalt
tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,wellchilled,cutintotablespoons,plusextraforgreasing

Preheattheovento350degrees.Buttera13x9inchbakingdish.
Combinetheapples,quinceandraisinsinalargemixingbowl.(Thereshouldbeabout8cupsoffruit.)Addsugartotaste,tocup,dependingonthesweetnessof
thefruit.Donotoversweeten.
Tomakethetopping,combinetheremainingsugar,thewalnuts,flourandsaltinafoodprocessororasmallmixingbowl.Pulseorstirtomixwell.Ifusingafood
processor,add2tablespoonsofthebutterandpulsebrieflytomix.Addanothertablespoonandpulseagain.Ifthecombinationtakesontheconsistencyofmoistsand,
donotaddadditionalbutter.Ifnot,addtheremaining1tablespoonbutterandpulseagain.Ifmakingbyhand,addthebutterfollowingthesameprocedure,rubbingthe
flourmixtureandbutterbetweenyourfingertips.

Page304
Pourthefruitintothebakingdishandspreaditevenly.Sprinklethetoppingoverthetop,breakingupanylargeclumps.
Bakefor45to50minutes,oruntilthefruitistenderandthetoppingisbrowned.Coolbrieflytoletthejuicesset,thenspoonontoservingplates.
8servings

Page305

cookies
Becausetheratiooftheingredientshastobejustright,cookierecipestendnottobeveryfriendlytoimprovisation.Sticktotherecipe.

Itsagoodideatosifttogetherallthedryingredientsexceptthesugar.Thiswillensurethattheywillbeevenlydistributedthroughthecookiedough.

Whenbutterandsugarareproperlycreamed,thecombinationshouldbelightandfluffyandnearlywhiteincolor.Thisusuallytakes2to3minutesofbeating.Ifusing
astandmixer,though,dontwalkawaywhilethebutteriscreaming.Overbeatingthebutterwilldeflatetheairbubblesyoujustachieved.

Addtheflourabitatatime,beatingconstantlytomakesureitiswelldistributed.

Chillcookiedoughsthataretoberolledout.

Ingeneral,cookiedoughscanbeworkedmuchmorethanpiedoughs.Afteryouverolledandcutoutonebatchofcookies,youcanrerollthescrapsasmanyas
twoorthreetimeswithoutlossofquality.

Page306
snickerdoodles
Thisisoneofmymomsrecipes,anditisthebaneofmyexistence.NomatterwhatIserveofmyownfordinner,thesealwaysgetthemostpraise.

2
2
1

1
1
2
1

cupsallpurposeflour
teaspoonscreamoftartar
teaspoonbakingsoda
teaspoonsalt
cupshortening
cupssugar
largeeggs
tablespoongroundcinnamon

Sifttogethertheflour,creamoftartar,bakingsodaandsaltintoabowlsetaside.
Creamtheshorteningandcupsofthesugarinalargebowlwithanelectricmixeruntillightandfluffy.Addtheeggs1atatime,beatingthoroughlyaftereach
addition.Reducethemixerspeedandgraduallyaddtheflourmixture,beatingwell.Gatherthedoughintoaball,wrapitinplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilfirm,about
30minutes.
Preheattheovento350degrees.
Combinetheremainingcupsugarandthecinnamon.
Tearoffpiecesofdoughaboutthesizeofawalnut,rollthemintoballs,rolltheminthecinnamonsugarandplacethemabout2inchesapartonungreasedbaking
sheets.
Bakeuntilthecookiesarelightbrownandfirmontop,10to15minutes.Thetopswillbedeeplycrackedandthecentersstillsomewhatsoft.
Coolonthebakingsheetsfor5minutes,thentransfertoaracktocoolcompletely.Repeatwiththeremainingdough.Storeinanairtightcontainer.
About4dozencookies

Page307
newmexicanchristmascookies(biscochitos)
Theflavorofthesecookiesmaybealittlesurprisingbecauseofthecombinationofaniseseedsandbrandy.Butonceyougetattachedtothem,itwontbetheholidays
withoutthem.Thetextureisthatofacrispbuttercookie.

6
1

1
1
2
2

cupsallpurposeflour
tablespoonbakingpowder
teaspoonsalt
poundlard,atroomtemperature,or2cupsshortening
cupssugar
teaspoonsaniseseeds
largeeggs
cupbrandy
tablespoongroundcinnamon

Sifttogethertheflour,bakingpowderandsaltintoabowlandsetaside.
Creamthelardorshorteningandcupsofthesugarinalargebowlwithanelectricmixeruntillightandfluffy.Beatintheaniseseeds,thenaddtheeggs1atatime,
beatingwellaftereachaddition.Beatinthebrandy.Reducethemixingspeedtolowandgraduallyaddtheflourmixtureandbeatuntilthedoughpullscleanlyaway
fromthesidesofthebowl.Coverandchillfor1hour.
Preheattheovento350degrees.
Combinetheremainingcupsugarandthecinnamonandsetaside.
Removethedoughfromtherefrigeratoratleast20minutesbeforerollingout.
Rolloutthedoughtoinchthickonalightlyflouredsurfaceandcutintodesiredshapes.Placecookies1inchapartonungreasedbakingsheetsanddustwith
cinnamonsugar.
Bakeuntillightlybrowned,about10minutes.Coolonarack.Repeatwiththeremainingdough.Storeinanairtightcontainer.
About6dozencookies

Page308
gingersnaps
Thesearethin,flatandflexible,kindoflikethecookiestheFrenchcallcatstongues.ThisrecipecomesfromthesouthernCaliforniaartistAnnieStromquist.

2
2
1
1
1

1
1

cupsallpurposeflour
teaspoonsbakingsoda
teaspoongroundginger
teaspoongroundcinnamon
teaspoongroundcloves
teaspoonsalt
cupshortening
cuppackedlightbrownsugar
largeegg
cupmolasses
Sugarforrolling

Sifttogethertheflour,bakingsoda,ginger,cinnamon,clovesandsaltintoabowlsetaside.
Creamtheshorteningandbrownsugarinalargebowlwithanelectricmixeruntillightandfluffy.Addtheeggandmolassesandbeatwell.Reducethemixerspeedto
lowandgraduallyaddthedryingredients,beatingwell.Gatherthedoughintoaball,wrapitinplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilfirm,about30minutes.
Preheattheovento350degrees.Grease2bakingsheets.
Tearoffpiecesofdoughaboutthesizeofawalnut,rollthemintoballs,rolltheminsugarandplacethemabout2inchesapartonthebakingsheets.
Bakethecookiesuntiltheyflatten,10to15minutes.Thetopswillbedeeplycrackedandthecentersstillsomewhatsoft.
Coolthecookiesonthebakingsheetsfor5minutes,thentransfertoaracktocoolcompletely.Repeatwiththeremainingdough.Storeinanairtightcontainer.
About3dozencookies

Page309
grandmasmithschristmascookies
Thisisanoldfavoriteofmyfamilys.Crispandsomewhatneutralinflavor,thesecookiesareperfectforcuttingintoelaborateholidayshapesandsmotheringwith
coloredicingandsparklycoloredsugar.

5
2
1
2
2

cupsallpurposeflour,plusmoreifneeded
teaspoonsbakingpowder
cupshorteningormargarine(2sticks),atroomtemperature
cupssugar
largeeggs
cupmilk
Coloredsugarsand/oricing

Sifttheflourandbakingpowdertogetherintoabowl.Setaside.
Creamtheshorteningormargarineandsugarinalargebowlwithanelectricmixeruntillightandfluffy.Addtheeggs1atatime,beatingwellaftereachaddition,then
beatinthemilk.Reducethemixerspeedtolowandbeatinthedryingredients1cupatatime.Continuebeatinguntilthemixturepullscleanlyawayfromthesidesof
thebowl,30to45seconds.Ifnecessary,addalittlemoreflour.
Coverthedoughandchillfor1hour.
Removethedoughfromtherefrigeratoratleast30minutesbeforerollingout.
Preheattheovento350degrees.
Onalightlyflouredworksurface,rolloutonequarterofthedoughtoinchthick.Cutintoshapesandtransfertoungreasedbakingsheets.Sprinklewithcolored
sugar,ifnotusingicing.
Bakethecookiesuntillightbrown,about10minutes.Coolbrieflyonthebakingsheets,thentransfertoarackanddecoratewithicing,ifdesired.Repeatwiththe
remainingdough.Storeinanairtightcontainer.
About6dozencookies

Page310
sourcherrystuffedalmondcookies
Thismacaroonismadewithoutstarchorfat(asidefromthatinthenuts).Instead,itreliesonthebindingpowerofbeateneggwhitestoholdthedoughtogetherandon
theairpocketsleftbetweentheirregularlygroundchunksofnutsforleavening.TherecipeisbasedonthecookbookauthorMaryTaylorSimetisversionofanold
Sicilianone.Themaindifferenceisthatthemacaroonsarestuffedwithdriedsourcherriesratherthanthetraditional,somewhatbitterjam.

1
2

3
2

poundblanchedwholealmonds(about3cups)
cupssugar
teaspoonvanillaextract
largeeggwhites
cupsdriedsourcherries,soakedinwarmwateruntilsoft,anddrained

Preheattheovento300degrees.Greaseandflourabakingsheet.
Grindthealmondsandsugarfineinafoodprocessor.Addthevanillaextractandpulsetomix.Pourintheeggwhites,distributingthemevenlyacrossthetopofthe
mixture.Processuntilaballofdoughformsontheblade.
Removethedoughfromthefoodprocessor.Tearoffawalnutsizedpieceofdoughandrollbrisklybetweenyourpalmsintoball.Useyourfingertopokeaholeinto
themiddleoftheball.Stuff1or2cherriesintothecenterandpressthedoughtogethertosealthehole.Ifdesired,formintoaroughpyramid,usingthreefingersand
yourthumb.Repeatwiththeremainingdough.
Place1inchapartonanungreasedbakingsheetandbakeforabout25minutes,oruntildelicatelybrowned.Coolbrieflyonthepanbeforetransferringtoarackto
coolcompletely.Storeinanairtightcontainer.
About2dozencookies

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index

Pagenumbersinboldfacetypedenoterecipes.

Acids(acidicingredients)
cookingbeanswith,159
cookingfruitswith,59,94
cookingvegetableswith,52,53,61
incustards,131
indoughs,291
greenvegetablesand,62
inpiecrusts,293
instarchthickenedsauces,15253
Acidulatedwater(waterwithlemonjuice),forpreventingbrowningowingtoenzymes,53,93
Acrolein,13
Alkalinesubstances,cookingvegetableswith,52,53
Allpurposeflour,286
Almond
apricotclafoutis,114
cookies,sourcherrystuffed,310
andnectarinetart,301
Amaretti,inpeachfritters,30
Aminoacids,crustoffriedfoodsand,22
Amylopectins,149,151,156,161
inrice,15657
Amylose,149,150,156
Anchovies,inpastawithbroccolirabe,168
Animalfats,11,12
crispestcrustsobtainedwith,23
Anthocyanin,50,58
Anthoxanthin,50
Apple(s),56,59,93
crisp,303
pureeofwintersquashand,215
refrigerationof,59
ripeningstonefruitandpearsand,93
vanillabaked,withbourbonsauce,112
Applesauce,quince,98
Apricot(s),56,57,59,93
almondclafoutis,114
dried
incornmealwaffleswithwinterfruitcompote,110
infallfruitcompote,97
Arrowroot,151,154
Artichoke(s)
bakedfishwithpotatoesand,250
browningowingtoenzymes,53,61
risotto,184

Page314
Artichoke(s)(cont.)
springvegetablestewofsnappeas,lettuce,newpotatoesand,80
Arugulasalad,porkschnitzelwith,44
Asparagus
ingreengoddesssalad,136
roasted,freeformlasagnaof,175
scrambledeggswithmorelsand,141
Avocado(s),56
cevichewithshrimpand,235
ingreengoddesssalad,136

Bacon,brusselssproutsand,36
Bakedfishwithpotatoesandartichokes,250
Bakedtomatoesstuffedwithmozzarella,73
Baking(bakedfoods),tomatoes,73
Bakingpowder
inbatters,22
asleavener,291
testing,291
Bakingsoda
inbatters,22
cookingbeanswith,159
cookingvegetableswith,53
asleavener,291
Balsamicvinegar,butternutsquashpureewith,213
Bananas,ripeningof,56,58
Basting,roastingmeatand,254
Batterforclafoutis,114
Batters(battercoatedfriedfoods)
beerin,18,22
friedlittlefish,29
keepingicecold,22
leavenersin,22
peachfritters,30
saltand,23
serving,24
stuffedzucchiniflowers,27
waterin,22
Bean(s),15560
ageof,160
cookingintheoven,160
cranberry,stewofcharredtomatoes,pastaand,82
fava,ragoutofshrimpand,84
flatulence(gas)causedby,158,159
lima,Californiasuccotashofsquash,cornand,68
mythsabout,158
pinto
puree,192
andsquashstew,196
porkand,...andendive,198
refried,162
saltingbeforecooking,15859,190
servingcold,190
soakingbeforecooking,158,160,190
testingfordoneness,190
white
crostini,191
andSwisschardstew,194
Beard,James,30
Bearnaisesauce,139
Bchamel,152
Beef.SeealsoMeat(s)
brining,232
corned,232
pastrami,232
potroast,mushroom,280

Page315
skirtsteak,inrealfajitas,258
temperatureforcooking,254
Beer,inbatters,18,22
Beetandorangesalad,roasted,78
Belgianendive,braisedwithcream,65
Bellpeppers
ingrilledvegetablesandwich,86
red,inratatouille,76
Beranbaum,RoseLevy,287
Berry(ies),56,93
icecream,115
Betalain,50
Beurremani,163,265
Bicarbonateofsoda.SeeBakingsoda
Biscochitos(NewMexicanChristmascookies),307
Blackberryicecream,115
Blanchingvegetables,52
beforeshallowfryingorsauting,32
Blanquettes,229,263
Blender,makingmayonnaiseina,12829,134
Blood,221
Bluecheese,celerysaladwithwalnutsand,135
Blushoffruits,51
Bocconcini,stuffedzucchiniflowerswith,27
Boilingpointofwaterversusoil,10
Boilingvegetables,53,54
Bourbon
gratinofsweetpotatoesand,214
sauce,vanillabakedappleswith,112
Braisedduckandlentils,200
Braising(braises)
meat,233,26365
chickenbraisedwithgreenolivesandthyme,266
duckandlentils,200
lambshankswithgreenolives,274
levelofliquidin,264
mushroompotroast,280
salmonbraisedwithleeks,prosciuttoandmushrooms,242
temperaturefor,22829,264
vegetablesin,264
vegetables,62
Belgianendivebraisedwithcream,65
butterbraisedspinach,64
Bratwurst,smokerlesssmoked,283
Breadcrumbs,crustoffriedfoodsand,22
Breadflour,286,287
Breads,289
Brinedturkey,roast,255
Brining,23132,253
Broccoli,50
blanching,52
Broccolirabe
lasagna,172
pastawith,168
Broiledfoods
crispsalmonsalad,237
rajas(grilledpeppersandcream),74
sanddabs(orsole)withbrownbutter,252
Broiledsanddabs(orsole)withbrownbutter,252
Brownbutter,sanddabs(orsole)with,252

Page316
Browning.SeealsoCaramelization
bycooking,17
eggsinbattersand,18
flouringmeatsbeforebrowning,263
meats,6,22930,263
meatsinbraises,stewsanddaubes,263
onions,1920
starchesforsauces,153
vegetables,54
enzymatic,53,59,93
Brusselssproutsandbacon,36
Bubbles,fryingand,15
Butter
beurremani,163,265
braisedspinach,64
brown,broiledsanddabs(orsole)with,252
chipotletequila,grilledsalmonwith,246
clarified,126
creamingsugarand,292,305
inhollandaisesauce,130
inhotemulsionsauces,139
forpiecrusts,28889
inpiecrusts,293
inrisottos,183
inscrambledeggs,140
Buttermilk,indoughs,291
Butternutsquashpureewithbalsamicvinegar,213

Cabbage
blanching,52
crispskinnedsalmononcreamyleeksand,38
odorof,54
Cajunroux,153
Cakeflour,286
Cakes,289
Calamari(squid)
salad,236
inseafoodricesalad,188
Californiacharmoula,250
Californiasuccotashofsquash,limabeansandcorn,68
Candiedcitruspeel,100
Canningjamsandjellies,118
Canolaoil(rapeseedoil),11
Caramelization(caramelizing),17.SeealsoBrowning,bycooking
browningmeatsand,229
onions,20
ofvegetables,55
Caramelizedonionsandgreenolives,goatcheesetartwith,34
Carotenoids,50,52
Carrots,50,52
Casserole,eggplantandgoatcheese,91
Cauliflower
blanching,52
soup,creamof,205
Celerysaladwithwalnutsandbluecheese,135
Cellulose,4849,51,53
Cellwallsoffruitsandvegetables,5356,59
Cerealstarches,151,154.SeealsoCornstarchFlour
Ceviche,219
withshrimpandavocado,235
Charmoula,California,250
Charredtomatoes,stewofpasta,cranberrybeansand,82
Cheese(s)
blue,celerysaladwithwalnutsand,135

Page317
cotija,inpintobeanpuree,192
goat
andeggplantcasserole,91
roastedtomatoeswith,63
tart,withcaramelizedonionsandgreenolives,34
macaroniand,withgreenonionsandham,180
mozzarella,bakedtomatoesstuffedwith,73
mozzarella,stuffedzucchiniflowerswith,27
Cherry(ies),56,93
almondclafoutis,114
driedsour,infallfruitcompote,97
sour,stuffedalmondcookie,310
Chicken.SeealsoPoultry
braisedwithgreenolivesandthyme,266
breasts,panfried,withfreshtomatoes,greenolivesandrosemary,42
countryfried,40
inthepot,268
whiteanddarkmeatin,224
Chickpeas(garbanzobeans),160
Chiles
chipotlemeco,inpintobeanpuree,192
poblano,inrajas(grilledpeppersandcream),74
Chinesefriedrice,157
Chipotle,tequilabutter,grilledsalmonwith,246
Chlorophyll,5052
Chocolate,potsdecrme,144
Cholesterol,12,127
Christmascookies
GrandmaSmiths,309
NewMexican(biscochitos),307
Citrusfruits,56,93
Citruspeel,candied,100
Clafoutis,apricotalmond,114
Clarifiedbutter,126
ClassicHomeDesserts(Sax),144
Clumpingofstarchthickenedsauces,153
Cobblers,295
Cocoa,inpiecrusts,292
Coleslaw,Dungenesscrab,238
Collagen,220,222
Compote
fruit,fall,97
spicedplum,cornmealcrepeswith,108
winterfruit,cornmealwaffleswith,110
Conduction,10
Connectivetissue,220,222,224,225
Cookie(s),305
amaretti,inpeachfritters,30
Christmas,GrandmaSmiths,309
doughs,29092,305
gingersnaps,308
leavenersin,291
NewMexicanChristmas(biscochitos),307
snickerdoodles,306
sourcherrystuffedalmond,310
Corn
Californiasuccotashofsquash,limabeansand,68

Page318
Corn(cont.)
soup,smokycreamofcorn,165
Cornedbeef,232
Cornmeal
crepeswithspicedplumcompote,108
polentawithrag,soft,180
waffleswithwinterfruitcompote,110
Cornstarch,asthickener
forcustards,132
forpiefillings,295
forsauces,15152,163
Cotijacheese,inpintobeanpuree,192
Countryfriedchicken,40
Crab,Dungeness,coleslaw,238
Cranberrybeans,stewofcharredtomatoes,pastaand,82
Cream
Belgianendivebraisedwith,65
Mexican,74
mangocrepeswith,106
Creamedonionswithshiitakemushrooms,80
Creamingbutterandsugar,292,305
Creamofcauliflowersoup,205
Creamofcornsoup,smoky,165
Crepes
cornmeal,withspicedplumcompote,108
mango,withMexicancream,106
Crisp(s),295
apple,303
Crispsalmonsalad,237
Crispskinnedsalmononcreamyleeksandcabbage,38
Crostini,whitebean,191
Crust(s).SeealsoPiecrust(s)Tart(s),crustfor
offriedfoods,12,15,17
deepfrying,22
sauting,32
short,pastry,296
Cucumbersalad,ovensteamedsalmonwith,244
Curdlingofeggs,13032
Custards,13132
baked,132,139
dropsofliquidontopof,140
starchesin,132
stirredandcookedonthestove,132

DalPescatore(restaurant),186
Daubes,26365
Deepfrying(deepfriedfoods),9,18,2224.SeealsoBatters(battercoatedfriedfoods)Frying
flourdustingfor,22
friedlittlefish,29
peachfritters,30
sizeofpiecesoffoodfor,22
stuffedzucchiniflowers,27
temperaturefor,23,24
thermometerfor,23
Tuscanpotatochips,25
Doughs,289.SeealsoPiecrust(s)Tart(s),crustfor
acidifiersin,291
creamedbutterandsugarin,292

Page319
forpies,29094
Dreamsicleoranges,99
Duckandlentils,braised,200
Dungenesscrabcoleslaw,238

Echo(restaurant),96
Egg(s),12347
airpocketin,12425
inbatters,18,22
incustards,13132
fried,140
hardboiled,12425
overcooked,140
partsof,12324
inpuddings,13031
insauces,12527
scrambled,140
withmorelsandasparagus,141
whites,inbatters,22
yolk,12324
asemulsifier,12729
inhollandaisesauce,12930
inhotemulsionsauces,139
Eggplant(s)
andgoatcheesecasserole,91
ingrilledvegetablesandwich,86
inratatouille,76
Emulsifier(s),126
eggyolkas,12729
Emulsions(emulsifiedsauces),123,12527
hollandaisesauce,12930
hot,13940
mayonnaiseas,125
physicallyinduced,12526
puddingsas,13031
vinaigrettesas,12526,133
Endive
Belgian,braisedwithcream,65
porkandbeans...and,198
Enzymes
browningowingto,53,59,93
infruits,59
ripenessand,55
Epicurean,The(Ranhofer),65
Ethylenegas,58

Fajitas,real,258
Fallfruitcompote,97
Fat(s).SeealsoOil(s)
forbasting,254
chemicalcompositionof,11
infish,222
highlysaturated,11
inmeats
flavordifferencesand,223
heat,effectof,221
marbling,221
inpiecrusts,293
piecrustsand,28688
shorteningpowerofdifferenttypesof,288
Favabeans,ragoutofshrimpand,84
Fennel,inmarketmix,72
Fiber,inbeans,158
Fig(s),56,93
tart,lavender,302
andwhitepeachicecream,117
Fish
baked,withpotatoesandartichokes,250
deteriorationafterbeingcaught,22223

Page320
Fish(cont.)
fillets,234
friedlittle,29
grilling,234
marinating,234
meatcomparedto,222
salmon.SeeSalmon
sanddabs(orsole)withbrownbutter,broiled,252
sauting,32
soupwithshellfish,240
swordfish,grilled,withsalsaverde,248
techniquesforcooking,234
testingfordoneness,227,234
troutmousse,142
Flakypiecrust,297
Flatulence(gas),causedbybeans,158,159
Flour(s)
allpurpose,286
bread,286,287
cake,286
incustards,132
dustingof,fordeepfryingfoods,22
pastry,286,287,293
forpiecrusts,28687
proteincontentof,286
semolina,286
asthickener
forpiefillings,295
forsauces,15152,163
unbleached,286
Flouringmeatbeforebrowning,263
Foodprocessor,makingmayonnaiseina,12829,134
Freeformlasagnaofroastedasparagus,175
Frenchfries,12
bakingpotatoesasbestfor,16162
potatoesfor,1617
stagesinthelifeofoiland,1415
Fricassees,263
Friedlittlefish,29
Friedrice,Chinese,157,182
Fritters,peach,30
Fruit(s),47
cobblers,295
colorsof,50,51
compote,93
fall,97
winter,cornmealwaffleswith,110
cooking,5859
crisps,295
forjammaking,118
picking,57
piefillings,29495
refrigerationof,59,93
ripenessof,5558,93
softeningwithsugar,93
stone,57,58,93
icecream,116
ripeningatroomtemperature,93
storageof,59,93
sugarseffecton,59
sweetening,59
sweetnessof,57
tartfillings,29495
temperatureforstoring,58
vegetablescomparedto,55
washing,59
Frying(friedfoods).SeealsoDeepfryingOil(s),fryinginShallowfrying(panfryingandsauting)andspecifictypesoffriedfoods
coatingsfor,1718
crustof,12,15,17

Page321
asadryingprocess,14,15
asefficientcookingmethod,11
fearof,910
asoneofhottestformsofcooking,910
panfrying,1819
roastingcomparedto,10
serving,24
soapscreatedby,14
steamand,1516
waterand,1516

Garbanzobeans(chickpeas),160
Garlic
sausages,spicy,281
sautedgreenbeanswithsageand,37
sautingonionsand,19
Gelatinization,15052
Gingersnaps,308
Glaze,frombraisingvegetables,62
Glazedzucchini,67
Gliadin,286
Gluten
inpasta,155,156
piecrustsand,28690
Glutenin,286
Gnocchi,155,204
potato,211
Goatcheese
andeggplantcasserole,91
roastedtomatoeswith,63
tart,withcaramelizedonionsandgreenolives,34
GrandmaSmithsChristmascookies,309
Grapes,56,93
Gratin
potato,209
potatoes,162
ofsweetpotatoesandbourbon,214
Gravy,flourthickened,150
Greenbeans,withgarlicandsage,sauted,37
Greengoddesssalad,136
Greenonions,macaroniandcheesewithhamand,180
Grilledsalmonwithchipotletequilabutter,246
Grilledvegetablesandwich,86
Grilling(grilledfoods)
fish,234
meats,253,254
rajas(grilledpeppersandcream),74
salmonwithchipotletequilabutter,246
swordfishwithsalsaverde,248
vegetables,54
vegetablesandwich,86
Gristle,221

Halibut,234
Ham,macaroniandcheesewithgreenonionsand,180
Hardwater,cookingbeansand,159
Hardwheat,286
Heartdisease,saturatedfatsand,12
Heat,fryingand,910
Hemoglobin,221,226
Herbs,cookingbeanswith,159
Highlysaturatedfats,crispestcrustsobtainedwith,23
Hirtzler,Victor,136

Page322
Holland,Adams,96
Hollandaisesauce,12930,139
Homogenization,126
Honey,indoughs,291

Icecream
berry,115
fruitflavored,59
stonefruit,116
whitepeachandfig,117
Instantpuddings,153
Italiansausage(s)
inporkandbeans...andendive,198
inragnapoletano,276
andribswithredwinebraisedlentils,202
insoftpolentawithrag,180

Jam,56,59,118.SeealsoPreserves
nectarineandrosegeranium,120
Jamjarlids,118
Jamjars,118
Jellies,118

Kamman,Madeleine,142
Keller,Thomas,38
KitchenGardenCookbook,The(Thompson),119
Kiwis,56
Kramer,Matt,157

Lamb,225
andlentilstoeatwithaspoon,272
orangezest,androsemarysausages,282
roast,withfreshpeasandturnips,260
shankswithgreenolives,braised,274
temperatureforcooking,254
Lard,inpiecrusts,288,293
Lasagna,166
broccoli,172
ofroastedasparagus,freeform,175
wildmushroom,177
Lavenderfigtart,302
Leaveners,289,291.SeealsoBakingsoda
Lecithin,asemulsifier,127
Leeks
andcabbage,creamy,crispskinnedsalmonon,38
salmonbraisedwithprosciutto,mushroomsand,242
Lemon
curdtart,147
juice
inpiecrusts,290
instarchthickenedsauces,15253
Meyer,marmalade,121
spongepudding,146
Lentilflour,155
Lentils,160,190
braisedduckand,200
lamband,toeatwithaspoon,272
redwinebraised,sausagesandribswith,202
servingcold,190
Lettuce,springvegetablestewofsnappeas,newpotatoes,artichokesand,80

Page323
Limabeans,Californiasuccotashofsquash,cornand,68
Limemintsyrup,slicedmelonsin,96

Macaroniandcheesewithgreenonionsandham,180
Maillardreaction,229
Mango(es),56,93
crepeswithMexicancream,106
refrigerationof,59
Marbling,221
Margarine,forpiecrusts,288
Marinades(marinating)
fish,234
formeats,231,253
Marketmix,72
Marmalade,Meyerlemon,121
Mayonnaise
asemulsion,125
ingreengoddesssalad,136
proportionofoiltoyolkin,128
insmokedtunasaladintomatoes,137
techniqueformaking,12729,13334
Meat(s).SeealsoBeefChickenLambPorkPoultryTurkey
onthebone,224,263
braising.SeeBraising(braises),meats
browning,6,22930,263
colorchangesin,221
cookingmethodsfor,22426
differencesamongkindsof,22122
dryheatcookingmethodsfor,25354
fatin
flavordifferencesand,223
heat,effectof,221
marbling,221
fishcomparedto,222
flavordifferencesin,223
flouringbeforebrowning,263
grilling,253,254
heatseffecton,21921
juicinessof,223
marbling,221
marinadesfor,231
moistheatcookingmethodsfor,26365.SeealsoBraisingStew(s)
beurremaniasthickener,265
browningmeatsfor,263
chickeninthepot,268
lambandlentilstoeatwithaspoon,272
liquids,264
mushroompotroast,280
restingandthenreheating,265
rusticversusrefinedapproaches,265
seasoning,265
temperaturefor,264
testingfordoneness,264
vegetables,264
pushorcarryovercooking,227
restingbeforecarving,227,254
roasting,217,253,254
brinedturkey,255
lambwithfreshpeasandturnips,260

Page324
Meat(s)(cont.)
porkroast,Umbrianstyle,259
restingattheendofcooking,254
searing(searedcrust)of,232
seasoningbeforecooking,253
shallowfrying(panfryingandsauting),21,32,33
stews,233
temperaturesforcooking,22425,22729,253,264
tenderizing,220
tendernessof,220,221,225,231
testingfordoneness,22627,254
timeneededtocook,230
toughcutsof,224,263
trussingortying,254
Meatloaf
combinationofmeatsfor,278
starchyfillersfor,278
wildmushroom,279
Meatthermometers,226,254
Melons,56,93
inlimemintsyrup,sliced,96
refrigerationof,59
Meringuebaskets,perfumedstrawberriesin,104
Mexicancream,74
mangocrepeswith,106
Meyerlemonmarmalade,121
Milk,incustards,131
Mintlimesyrup,slicedmelonsin,96
Moistheatcookingmethodsformeats.SeealsoBraisingStew(s)
beurremaniasthickener,265
browningmeatsfor,263
chickeninthepot,268
lambandlentilstoeatwithaspoon,272
liquids,264
mushroompotroast,280
restingandthenreheating,265
rusticversusrefinedapproaches,265
seasoning,265
temperaturefor,264
testingfordoneness,264
vegetables,264
Molasses
inBostonbakedbeans,159
indoughs,291
Morels
scrambledeggswithasparagusand,141
inwildmushroomlasagna,177
Moroccanspices,squashsoupwith,207
Mousse,trout,142
Mozzarella
bakedtomatoesstuffedwith,73
stuffedzucchiniflowerswith,27
Mungbeanflour,155
Muscles.SeealsoMeat(s)
workedversusresting,224
Mushroom(s)
browningowingtoenzymes,53
inmarketmix,72
morels,scrambledeggswithasparagusand,141

Page325
porcini,andzucchinirisotto,186
potroast,280
salmonbraisedwithleeks,prosciuttoand,242
shiitake,creamedonionswith,80
wild
lasagna,177
meatloaf,279
Mustard
asemulsifier,12627
invinaigrettes,12627,133
Myoglobin,221,224

Nectarine(s),56,57,59,93
andalmondtart,301
icecream,116
androsegeraniumjam,120
NewMexicanChristmascookies(biscochitos),307
Nuts,inpiecrusts,292

Oil(s)
fryingin.SeealsoFrying(friedfoods)
addingalittleoldoil,23
amounttouse,23
bubbles,typesof,15
changesinoil,1214
heattransferand,10
panfrying,1819
sauting,19
smokingpointof,13
temperatureofoil,16
thermometer,23
veryfreshoil,1315,23
inmayonnaise,12728,133
rancidityof,12
soapsasbyproductsofthebreakdownof,14
stagesinthelifeof,14
whitetruffle,191
Olives,56
green
braisedlambshankswith,274
chickenbraisedwiththymeand,266
goatcheesetartwithcaramelizedonionsand,34
panfriedchickenbreastswithfreshtomatoes,rosemaryand,42
Olney,Richard,209
Onion(s)
browning(caramelizing),1920
chemicalreactionscausedbycuttingorsmashing,1
creamed,withshiitakemushrooms,80
cryingcausedby,2
sautinggarlicand,19
sweetnessof,23
Orange(s),50,58
blood,51
dreamsicle,99
androastedbeetsalad,78
Orecchiette,withprosciuttoandpeas,167
Ovensteamedsalmonwithcucumbersalad,244

Palmoil,11
Panfrying,1819.SeealsoShallowfrying
Papain,117
Papayas,56
Pasta,15556
addingcookingwatertothesauce,166

Page326
Pasta(cont.)
withbroccolirabe,168
cooking,166
heatingalongwiththesauce,aftercooking,166
lasagna,166
broccoli,172
ofroastedasparagus,freeform,175
wildmushroom,177
macaroniandcheesewithgreenonionsandham,180
orecchiettewithprosciuttoandpeas,167
withpotatoes,179
restingdoughfor,166
shapeof,166
stewofcharredtomatoes,cranberrybeansand,82
Tuscanpotatochips,25
Pastrami,232
Pastry,289.SeealsoPiecrust(s)
shortcrust,296
Pastryflour,286,287,293
Peach(es),5659,93
fritters,30
icecream,116
topeel,94
tart,rustic,300
white,andfigicecream,117
Pears,56,59,93
incornmealwaffleswithwinterfruitcompote,110
refrigerationof,59
ripeningatroomtemperature,93
Peas
fresh,roastlambwithturnipsand,260
orecchiettewithprosciuttoand,167
split,160
Pecticacid,56
Pectin(s),48,49,51,53,55,56
inpotatoes,161
Peeling,peaches,94
Pelargonidin,51
Perfumedstrawberriesinmeringuebaskets,104
Persimmons,56,93
Photosynthesis,48
Pie(s)
fillings,290
sugarin,154
thickenersfor,154
opentopped,15455
Piecrust(s)(piedoughs),28599
AmericanversusEuropean,28588
bakingtheshell,294
chillingingredientsanddoughfor,293
cocoain,292
difficultyofmaking,285
doughsfor,29094
cookiedoughscomparedto,290
fatin,286,287
fillingsfor,290,295
flakinessof,286,28890,293
flaky,297
flourfor,28687
glutenand,28690
kneadingandrolling,294
nutsin,292
patchingcracksandbreaks,294
placingdoughinapieplateortartpan,294

Page327
typesof,285
waterin,293
Pilaf,157,182
Pintobean
puree,192
andsquashstew,196
Plum(s),57,59,93
compote,cornmealcrepeswithspiced,108
icecream,116
Poblanochiles,inrajas(grilledpeppersandcream),74
Polentawithrag,soft,180
Polymers,13,14
Porciniandzucchinirisotto,186
Pork
andbeans...andendive,198
brining,231,253
butt
inragnapoletano,276
assausagemeat,278
ribs
inporkandbeans...andendive,198
sausagesand,withredwinebraisedlentils,202
insoftpolentawithrag,180
roast,Umbrianstyle,259
sausage,Italian.SeeItaliansausage(s)
schnitzelwitharugulasalad,44
temperatureforcooking,225,254
Potato(es),48,160,204
bakedfishwithartichokesand,250
baking,16062,204
boiling,161,204
browningowingtoenzymes,53,61
frenchfries,12
potatoesfor,1617,16162
stagesinthelifeofoiland,1415
gnocchi,155,211
gratin,162,209
inmarketmix,72
mashed,161
new,springvegetablestewofsnappeas,lettuce,artichokesand,80
pastawith,179
storageof,60
asthickeners,162,204
increamofcauliflowersoup,205
typesof,160
Potatostarch,151,154,163
Potroast,mushroom,280
Potsdecrme,chocolate,144
Pouleaupot,268
Poultry.SeealsoChickenTurkey
brining,231,253
rednessatthebone,227
temperatureforcooking,254
testingfordoneness,22627
Preserves,strawberry,119
Prosciutto
orecchiettewithpeasand,167
salmonbraisedwithleeks,mushroomsand,242
Protein(s),21723
fibersof,218
inflours,286
Prunes,incornmealwaffleswithwinterfruitcompote,110

Page328
Pudding(s),13031
chocolatepotsdecrme,144
instant,153
lemonsponge,146
Puree
butternutsquash,withbalsamicvinegar,213
ofwintersquashandapples,215

Quesoranchero,74
Quince(s)
applesauce,98
infallfruitcompote,97

Radicchio,alforno,66
Ragoutofshrimpandfavabeans,84
Rag
napoletano,276
softpolentawith,180
Raisins,infallfruitcompote,97
Rajas(grilledpeppersandcream),74
Rancidityofoils,12
Ranhofer,Charles,65
Rapeseedoil(canolaoil),11
Raspberryicecream,115
Ratatouille,76
Realfajitas,258
Refriedbeans,162
Refrigerationoffruits,59,93
Retrogradation,157
Rhubarb,59
Rice,155,156
fried,Chinese,157,182
longgrain,156,157,182
pilaf,157,182
risotto,156,182,183
artichoke,184
zucchiniandporcini,186
salad,182
seafood,188
asthickener,162
typesof,156
Riceflour,154,155
Rigormortis,222
Ripenessoffruits,5558,93
Risotto,156,182,183
artichoke,184
zucchiniandporcini,186
Roastedbeetandorangesalad,78
Roastedtomatoeswithgoatcheese,63
Roasting(roastedfoods)
fryingcomparedto,10
meats,217,253,254
brinedturkey,255
lambwithfreshpeasandturnips,260
porkroast,Umbrianstyle,259
restingattheendofcooking,254
vegetables,54
beetandorangesalad,roasted,78
marketmix,72
radicchioalforno,66
Roastlambwithfreshpeasandturnips,260
Roberts,Michael,272
Robuchon,Joel,38
Rootstarches,151,154
Rosegeranium,andnectarinejam,120
Rosemary
lamb,andorangezestsausages,282
panfriedchickenbreastswithfreshtomatoes,greenolivesand,42
Roux,163

Page329
Cajun,153
Rusticpeachtart,300
Rustictartcrust,299
Rutabaga,52

Sage,sautedgreenbeanswithgarlicand,37
Salad
arugula,porkschnitzelwith,44
calamari,236
celery,withwalnutsandbluecheese,135
cucumber,ovensteamedsalmonwith,244
greengoddess,136
rice,182
seafood,188
roastedbeetandorange,78
salmon,crisp,237
smokedtuna,intomatoes,137
Saladdressing.SeeVinaigrette
Salmon
braisedwithleeks,prosciuttoandmushrooms,242
brining,232
crispskinned,oncreamyleeksandcabbage,38
grilled,withchipotletequilabutter,246
ovensteamed,withcucumbersalad,244
salad,crisp,237
Salsaverde,grilledswordfishwith,248
Salt(ing).SeealsoBrining
battersand,18,23
beansbeforecooking,15859,190
inmayonnaise,128
meatbeforesauting,32
meats,253
Sanddabs(orsole),broiled,withbrownbutter,252
Sandwich
grilledvegetable,86
turkeytonnato,256
Saturatedfats,1112
Sauce(s)
bourbon,vanillabakedappleswith,112
eggsin,12527
hollandaise,12930
ragnapoletano,276
aftersauting,33
starchthickened,15053,16364
avoidingclumping,153
browningthestarchbeforeaddingliquid,153
holdingbeforeserving,164
ingredientsaddedafterasaucehasthickened,164
tomato,forbroccolilasagna,172
white
ratiosoffat,flourandliquidfor,164
inwildmushroomlasagna,177
zabaglione,130
Sausage(s),278
casings,281
cookingtechniquefor,278
grindingmeatfor,278
Italian.SeeItaliansausage(s)
lamb,orangezestandrosemary,282
seasoningmeatfor,278
spicygarlic,281

Page330
Sausage(s)(cont.)
temperatureofmeatformaking,278
Sautedgreenbeanswithgarlicandsage,37
Sauting.SeeShallowfrying
Sax,Richard,144
Scienceofcooking,67
Scrambledeggs,140
withmorelsandasparagus,141
Seafood
brining,232
ricesalad,188
Searing(searedcrust)ofmeats,232
Semolina,286
Shallowfrying(panfryingandsauting),1821,32
amountofoiltousefor,32
brusselssproutsandbacon,36
chickenbreastswithfreshtomatoes,greenolivesandrosemary,panfried,42
countryfriedchicken,40
crispskinnedsalmononcreamyleeksandcabbage,38
asfinalstepincooking,20
fish,32
goatcheesetartwithcaramelizedonionsandgreenolives,34
greenbeanswithgarlicandsage,37
keepingfoodfromsticking,32
meaningof,19
meats,21,32,33
forbraises,daubes,andstews,263
porkschnitzelwitharugulasalad,44
sauceyoucanmakeafter,33
temperatureofoilfor,32
vegetables,53
Shellfish,fishsoupwith,240
Shiitakemushrooms,creamedonionswith,80
Shortcake,ultimatestrawberry,102
Shortcrustpastry,296
Shortening,11
crispestcrustsobtainedwith,23
forpiecrusts,288,289
inpiecrusts,293
Shrimp
andavocado,cevichewith,235
brining,232
andfavabeans,ragoutof,84
ingreengoddesssalad,136
inseafoodricesalad,188
Silverton,Nancy,299
Simeti,MaryTaylor,310
Skirtsteak,inrealfajitas,258
Slicedmelonsinlimemintsyrup,96
Smokedtunasaladintomatoes,137
Smokerlesssmokedbratwurst,283
Smokingpointofoils,13
Smokycreamofcornsoup,165
Snappeas,springvegetablestewoflettuce,newpotatoes,artichokesand,80

Page331
Snickerdoodles,306
Soaps,asbyproductsofthebreakdownofoil,14
Softpolentawithrag,180
Sol,15354
Sole(orsanddabs),broiled,withbrownbutter,252
Soup
creamofcauliflower,205
fish,withshellfish,240
smokycreamofcorn,165
squash,withMoroccanspices,207
strawberry,95
Sourcherrystuffedalmondcookies,310
Sourcream,indoughs,291
Spicedplumcompote,cornmealcrepeswith,108
Spicygarlicsausages,281
Spinach,butterbraised,64
Splitpeas,160
Springvegetablestewofsnappeas,lettuce,newpotatoesandartichokes,80
Squash(es),winter,160,162
butternut,pureewithbalsamicvinegar,213
Californiasuccotashof,limabeans,cornand,68
withMoroccanspices,207
andpintobeanstew,196
pureeing,204
pureeofapplesand,215
asthickeners,204
Squid(calamari)
salad,236
inseafoodricesalad,188
Starch(es)
compositionof,149
incustards,132
gelatinizationof,15052
pure,151
quickthickening,153
root,151,154
saucesthickenedwith,15053,16364
avoidingclumping,153
browningthestarchbeforeaddingliquid,153
holdingbeforeserving,164
ingredientsaddedafterasaucehasthickened,164
thickeningpropertiesof,15254
Steam,fryingand,1516
Steamingvegetables,54
Steingarten,Jeffrey,56
Stew(s)(stewing),228,26365
ofcharredtomatoes,pastaandcranberrybeans,82
meats,233.SeealsoMeat(s),moistheatcookingmethodsfortestingfordoneness,264
vegetablesin,264
pintobeanandsquash,196
springvegetable,ofsnappeas,lettuce,newpotatoesandartichokes,80
white(blanquettes),229,263
whitebeanandSwisschard,194
Sticking,keepingfoodsfrom,32
grilledfish,234
lasagna,166
Stonefruit(s),57,58,93
icecream,116
ripeningatroomtemperature,93
Storageoffruits,59,93
Strawberry(ies),58,59

Page332
Strawberry(ies)(cont.)
icecream,115
inmeringuebaskets,perfumed,104
preserves,119
shortcake,ultimate,102
soup,95
Stromquist,Annie,308
Stuffedzucchini,88
Stuffedzucchiniflowers,27
Succotashofsquash,limabeansandcorn,California,68
Sugar(s)
creamingbutterand,292,305
crustoffriedfoodsand,22
incustards,131
infruits,56
fruitsoftenedby,59,93
inpiefillings,154
instarchthickenedsauces,152
Sugarsyrup,forfruitcompotes,93
Sulfenicacids,1,2
Sulfur,ineggs,124
Sulfuric(sulfurous)compounds
incabbage,54
inonions,13
invegetables,52
Sweating,20
Sweetpotatoes,162
andbourbon,gratinof,214
asthickeners,204
Swisschardstew,whitebeanand,194
Swordfish,grilled,withsalsaverde,248
Syrup
forfruitcompotes,93
limemint,slicedmelonsin,96

Tapioca,asthickener
forpiefillings,295
forsauces,151,154
Tarragon,inbearnaise,139
Tart(s)
crust,rustic,299
crustfor,293.SeealsoPiecrust(s)
goatcheesetartwithcaramelizedonionsandgreenolives,34
fruit,fillingsfor,294
goatcheese,withcaramelizedonionsandgreenolives,34
lavenderfig,302
lemoncurd,147
nectarineandalmond,301
peach,rustic,300
Tea,53
Tenderizingofmeats,22021
Thermometers
deepfrying,23
meat,226,254
Thickener(s).SeealsoCornstarch,asthickenerStarch(es)
beurremani,265
flouras
forpiefillings,295
forsauces,15152,163
pastacookingwateras,166
forpiefillings,295
potatoesas,162
riceas,162
Thompson,Sylvia,119
Thyme,chickenbraisedwithgreenolivesand,266
Tomato(es),58
baked,stuffedwithmozzarella,73

Page333
charred,stewofpasta,cranberrybeansand,82
panfriedchickenbreastswithgreenolives,rosemary,andfresh,42
roasted,withgoatcheese,63
sauce,forbroccolilasagna,172
smokedtunasaladin,137
storageof,59,61
Tonnatosandwich,turkey,256
Traditionofhomecooking,4
Troutmousse,142
Truffleoil,white,191
Trussingmeats,254
Tuna
smoked,saladintomatoes,137
inturkeytonnatosandwich,256
Turkey.SeealsoPoultry
brining,232
roastbrined,255
tonnatosandwich,256
whiteanddarkmeatin,224
Turnips,roastlambwithfreshpeasand,260
Tuscanpotatochips,25
Tyingmeats,254

Ultimatestrawberryshortcake,102
Umbrianstyleporkroast,259
Unbleachedflour,286

Vanilla,bakedappleswithbourbonsauce,112
Vegetable(s),4791.Seealsospecificvegetables
acidsgivenoffbycooking,53
blanched,62
blanching,52
boiling,53,54
inbraises,stewsanddaubes,264
braising,62
cellulosewallsof,4849
colorsof,5053
cookedwithacidicingredients,52
cookingmethodsfor,5455
cookingtimesfor,61
cutting,61
defined,4748
flavorchangesfromcooking,5354
fruitscomparedto,55
green,cooking,61
grilled,sandwich,86
grilling,54
leafy,5152
peeling,61
roasting,54
beetandorangesalad,roasted,78
marketmix,72
radicchioalforno,66
selecting,49,61
spring,stewofsnappeas,lettuce,newpotatoesandartichokes,80
steaming,54
storageof,61
storing,49
Vegetablefats,11
Vegetableoils,11
Vegetableshortening.SeeShortening
Velout,152
Vinaigrette
forblanchedvegetables,62
asemulsion,12526,133
Vinegar
balsamic,butternutsquashpureewith,213

Page334
Vinegar(cont.)
inhollandaise,139
inmayonnaise,128
inpiecrusts,290
inpiecrustsandcookiedoughs,291,293
rinsingonionsin,23
instarchthickenedsauces,15253

Waffles,cornmeal,withwinterfruitcompote,110
Walnuts,celerysaladwithbluecheeseand,135
Washing,fruits,59
Water
asheatconductor,10
inpiecrusts,293
sautingvegetablesand,5354
Waterbath(bainmarie)
custardsbakedin,131,139
toholdahothollandaiseorotheremulsionsaucebeforeserving,139
forlemonspongepudding,146
Watermelon,56
Wells,Patricia,38,272
Whalemeat,223
Wheatflour.SeealsoFlour(s)
pastas,155
Whitebait,fried,29
Whitebean
crostini,191
andSwisschardstew,194
Whitepeachandfigicecream,117
Whitesauce,152
ratiosoffat,flourandliquidfor,164
inwildmushroomlasagna,177
Whitetruffleoil,191
Wholewheatflours,28687
Wildmushroomlasagna,177
Wildmushroommeatloaf,279
Wildrice,156
Wine
inhollandaise,139
inmarinades,253
instarchthickenedsauces,15253
Winterfruitcompote,cornmealwaffleswith,110
Wintersquash,160,162
butternut,pureewithbalsamicvinegar,213
Californiasuccotashof,limabeans,cornand,68
withMoroccanspices,207
andpintobeanstew,196
pureeing,204
pureeofapplesand,215
asthickeners,204
Wolfert,Paula,244
Woods,Tim,96

Yeast,batterswith,22
Yogurt,indoughs,291

Zabaglione,130
Zucchini
Californiasuccotashoflimabeans,cornand,68
flowers,stuffed,27
glazed,67
andporcinirisotto,186
inratatouille,76
stuffed,88

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