Yarn SizeLinear density or reciprocal of linear density,are used to calculate yarn

sizebecause the length and mass of theyarn can each be accurately measured.
Linear density = weight/length
Count CalculationDirect System Tex- weight in grams of 1000 m of yarn Denierweight in grams of 9000 m of yarn Denier = 9 Tex
If 1,000 meters of yarn weighs 50 grams, it is a 50 tex yarn. Denier = 9 texSo.
Same yarn is of 450 denier
Indirect System (English System) Number of Hanks in one pound The length of a
hank depends upon the spinning system:Cotton system: 1 hank = 840 yardsWorsted
system: 1 hank = 560 yards
If there are 10 hanks of cotton yarn that weigh one pound, this is 10s yarnSo what
does a 20s count yarn mean ??...... it measures 20 hank or 16800 yards in 1 pound
Conversion System 5315 590.6 5906 English cotton count = = = denier tex dtex 7972
885.8 8858English worsted count = = = denier tex dtex 0.111 Tex = = 0.1 dtex denier
Denier = 9 tex = 0.9 dtex
Folded yarn calculation Indirect system 1 / R = 1 / R1 + 1 / R2 + 1/ R3 +
where, R is the resultant count in indirect systemR1, R2, R3 are the count of single yarn
in indirect systeme.gWhen two cotton yarns are of 24 and 36 Ne are folded, 1/R = 1/24
+1/36 R = 14.4 Ne so the resultant count of 24 and 36 Ne folded cotton yarn is 14.4 Ne
Direct system R = R1 + R2 + R3 +..Where R is the resultant count in direct
system,And R1, R2, R3 are the count of single yarn in direct systeme.gWhen two
polyester filament yarns of 40 and 76 denier are plied together, their resultant count, R =
40 + 76 = 116 Denier
Formation of Fabrics Weaving Knitting Braiding Nonwovens
WEAVINGInterlacement of Warpyarns Weft Plain Weave
Different Types of WeavesDifferent arrangement of Plain threads Plain Twill
Satin Sateen Diamond Honeycomb And many more Satin Twill
AIM Quality Production Minimum loss of energyand material
To achieve these aims.. Good quality of yarns Proper maintenance of machinery
Skilled worker
Material flow Winding Warping Sizing Drawing in Weaving
WindingObjective To produce a good package that contains long length of yarn and
unwound well during warping. To remove objectionable yarn faults
Requirement of winding The fault level in the yarn must be reduced to an acceptable
level. The yarn must not be damaged in any way in the winding process. Unwinding in
the following process with minimum difficulty. Package size, shape, and built must be
most technologically suitable
Yarn Passage
Yarn clearerCapacitance based yarn clearer
Requirement of knotting Be easy to tie, Have good resistance to slippage, and Be of a
size and shape that gives it little chance of catching or jamming in narrow openings
A high degree of yarn quality is impossible throughknot..as the knot itself is
objectionable due to itsphysical dimension, appearance and problems duringdownstream
processes.The knots are responsible for 30 to 60% of stoppagesin weaving.
Knot and Splice
SplicingJoining two yarn ends by intermingling the constituent fibres

 WarpingObjective-To arrange a convenient number numbers of warpyarns so that

they can be collected on a singlewarpers beam.An operation where yarn is transferred
from singlepackages of yam to an even sheet of yam representinghundreds of ends and
then wound onto a warp beam
Beam Warping
Sectional Warping
Producing An Even and Uniform Sheet Of Yarn The packages in the warper creel
must be uniform in density, size, and wind configuration. Tension applied in warping
must be uniform throughout. Contact surfaces which the yarn passes must be smooth and
must not impede the progress of the yam.
SizingObjective To improve the abrasion resistance, and incidentally, the tensile
strength of the yarn1. Strengthen the yarn2. Make outer surface of yarn smoother3.
Lubricate the yarnIt causes fibers mutually to adhere in such a way as to make the warp
yarn stronger, smother and better lubricatedAdhesives : Starch and gumLubricants : Fatty
and Oily substance
Beam Creel Size Box Drying Unit Warp Separation Weavers Beam
Size Box
Yarn appearance..
During slashing the exact no. of warp yarnsrequired in the fabric is wound onto
theweavers beam .The warp ends are then passed through thedrop wires of the warp stop
motion, thehealds of the harness frames and the dentsof the reed.
Drawing-in This is the process of drawing every warp end through its drop wire,
heald eye and reed dents.
WeavingDifferent motions Shedding Picking Beating Take-up Let-off Warp stop weft
stop
SheddingTo separate the warp threads into two layers, one israised and other is
lowered.
SheddingReed shed
PickingTo insert a weft thread across the warp endsthrough the shed
Picking
Beat-upTo push the weft thread that has beeninserted across the warp ends, upto the
clothfell
Beat-up
Take upTo pull the cloth forward after the beat-up ofweft, maintaining the same pick
density andspacing throughout weaving of a cloth andwinding the woven cloth on to a
roller
Let off To allow the warp to unwind from the warp beam during weaving of a cloth
and also to maintain an average constant tension of warp as it weaves downTypes:Negative let off- Positive let off
Warp StopTo stop the loom when a warp thread breaksor get loose.
Weft stopTo stop the loom when a weft breaks or theweft runs out of the package
Weaving MachinesClassification on basis of Weft Insertion Conventional Loom
(shuttle loom) Unconventional Loom ( shuttleless loom) Projectile loom Rapier loom Air
Jet loom Water Jet loom

 Weft insertion device in conventional loomsIn conventional loomsa shuttle

weighingaround half a Kg isinserted through warpshed to insert a lengthof weft weighing
only afew grams. Shuttle For weft insertion in conventional looms
Limitations of Conventional Looms1. Small weft package size, requiring frequent
replenishment2. Heavy consumption of spare parts, particularly of picking and checking
motions3. Limited scope for increase in the speed and performance4. Complicated
mechanism for multi colour weft5. High noise level.
Unconventional LoomsShuttleless loomsCertain features of unconventional looms:Large weft package supply, mostly in forms of cheese/cone- Improved weft insertion
system- Unconventional selvedge formation
Different methods of weft insertion Projectile Rapier Air Water
Projectile loom Projectile weaving machines use projectile equipped with a gripper to
insert the weft yarn across the shed It allows use of any yarn cotton, wool, mono or
multifilament and even hard fibers like jute and linen. Projectile weaving m/c are
available in two or four color with working width of 190-540 cm.
Projectile weft insertion..
Rapier loomsA flexible or rigid solid element called rapier is used toinsert the weft
yarn and carries it across the shed.
Classification of Rapier looms Number of rapiers Type of rapier Type of insertion
Single rapierDouble rapier
Type of rapier Rigid & flexibleSingle rigidDouble rigidSingle flexibleDouble flexible
Type of insertionTip transferLoop transfer
Features of rapier loom The rapier loom can weave very light fabric of 20 gsm to
heavy 850 gsm The gripper head can take a wide range of yarn count ranging from 5 to
1000 tex. Upto 16 different weft yarn can be inserted
Air Jet loom High speed weaving machines Insertion of weft yarn into the warp shed
with compressed air.
Earlier air jet wet insertion Buckling of weft yarnMaximum width 110 cm
Relay nozzles With relay nozzles it is possible to propel the weft thread across the
greater width Machine upto 400 cm width are available
.....relay nozzle
Water jet loomWeft is inserted into shed with highly pressurizedwater.Hydrophobic
warp and weft. The range of jet and the width of water jet loomdepends on the water
pressure and the diameter ofthe jet...Modern looms have speed of 1500 ppm
Demerits of water jet loomsLeast flexible as compared to other
shuttlelessloomsMaximum width of 3 m.
Making of Terry TowelRequired properties of yarns which are used in towel are:1.
High absorbency2. High wet strength3. Ability to dye well4. Good colour fastness5.
Wash-ability6. Soft hand7. Hypoallergenic
Why cotton..??HydrophilicHigh wet strengthHypoallergenicEasy
availabilityMost economical fiber among other natural fibers
Four group of yarn are used in terry towel Pile warp Ground warp Weft Border weft
Pile warp 100% cotton yarns 16 and 20 Ne When high quality of towel is needed
two or more ply yarn are used Rotor spun yarns are also used.Ground warp 100% cotton
Carded yarn 20/2 or 24/2 are generally used Two ply yarns are preferred Sometimes
cotton/polyester blend is used for greater strength

 Weft 100% cotton Carded 16s and 20s Ne Rotor spun yarns are also usedBorder
Decorative, shinny and bulky yarns of rayon, viscose, polyester, and mercerized cotton
are used with different yarn sizes
Construction of Terry Towel Pile warpGround Warp Weft
Physical properties of towel Absorbency Heat Insulation Crease Resistance Dullness
Terry weaving
Cover Factor
Cloth cover factor calculation
Fabric weightWEIGHT OF WARP IN LB.warp length in yds* Ends per inch * Reed
width () 840 * Count of warpWEIGHT OF WEFT IN LB.Cloth length in yds.* Picks per
inch * Reed width () 840 * Count of weftWEIGHT OF FABRIC IN LB. Warp weight in
lbs . + Weft weight in lbs.
Theoretical Loom Production Loom production in yards per hour Loom Speed (or
picks per min) 60 Pick density (or picks per inch) 36Production in square yards per
hourLoom Speed (or picks per min) 60 loom width (inch) Pick density (or picks per inch)
36 36