Cn

Numerical Study of Cnoidal Wave Propagation over

Permeable and Impermeable Submerged Obstacles

RANS (Reynolds
Averaged Navier-Stokes Equations)
VARANS (volume-averaged / Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes Equations)

(Volume of Fluid)

:;;;;;
RANS;VARANS

Abstract
The main object of this study is to numerically investigate the
Bragg-resonance interaction between cnoidal waves and submerged coastal
obstacles. Both permeable and impermeable obstacles are considered.
The model named Cornell BReaking And Structure (COBRAS) calculates
the mean flow fields outside and inside porous structures based on Reynolds
Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations and Volume-Averaged/Reynolds
Averaged Navier-Stokes (VARANS) equations, respectively. The turbulent
kinematic energy (TKE) within the flow fields is estimated by performing

closure model and the free surface deformations are tracked using volume of fluid method (VOF).
There are four-type submerged obstacles with different porosities and
shapes (i.e. rectangular and arc) employed to study Bragg-resonance behaviors. Our results suggest that the greater porosity the smaller reflection rate is
given. Additionally, the numerical observations on TKE and fluid-vorticity
due to wave-structure interaction are drawn.

Keywords: Cnoidal wave; permeable; impermeable; submerged obstacles; Bragg resonant; RANS; VARANS.

II

2010/7/5

III

............................................................................................................................I

ABSTRACT ................................................................................................................ II

........................................................................................................................ III

......................................................................................................................... IV

................................................................................................................. VI

............................................................................................................... VII

............................................................................................................... 1

1-1 ................................................................................................ 1
1-2 ................................................................................................ 4
1-3 ................................................................................................ 7

....................................................................................................... 8

2-1 ............................................................................................ 8
2-1-1

VARANS ......................................................................... 8

2-1-2

2-1-3
2-1-4

........................................................................ 12
.................................................................... 13
........................................................ 16

2-2 .......................................................................... 18
2-2-1 ...................................................................................... 18
2-2-2 .............................................................................. 19
2-2-3 .............................................................................. 21
2-2-4 .................................................................. 22
2-2-5 ...................................................................... 22
2-3 .............................................................................................. 23

IV

2-3-1 ( two-step projection ) ........................................ 23

2-3-2 ( finite difference method ) ..................................... 24
2-3-3 ( volume of fluid method ) ..................................... 29
2-3-4 ( partial cell ) .............................................................. 32

..................................................................................................... 34

3-1 .............................................. 34
3-2 ...................................................................................... 41
................................................... 43

4-1 .......................................................................................... 44
4-2 .............................................................................................. 58

................................................................................................. 81

5-1 ...................................................................................................... 81
5-2 ...................................................................................................... 82
..................................................................................................................... 83

2.1 ...................................................... 15
2.2 ....................................................... 15
4.1 ...................................................................... 43

VI

1.1 ......................................................... 2
1.2 ......................................................... 3
1.3 ......................................................... 3
2.2 .......................................................... 31
2.3 ....................................................................................... 33
3.1 ........................................................ 36
3.2 x = 0.2m .................... 37
3.3 x = 8.01m ................... 38
3.4 x = 9.9m .................... 39
3.5 Chang (2005)() ......................... 40
3.6 COBRAS Chang (2005).............................. 40
3.7 Hsiao (2002)() .......................... 42
3.8 COBRAS Hsiao (2002)................... 42
4.2 ........................................... 48
4.3 ............................... 49
4.4 x = 40m ~ 54m ........................... 50
4.5 ....................... 51
4.6 ....................... 51
4.7 ....................... 52
4.8 ()(a)~(e)

t = 61.1s ~ 64.1s ............................................................. 53

4.8 ()()(a)~(e)
t = 61.1s ~ 64.1s ......................................................... 54
4.9 .......................... 55
4.10 .................... 56

VII

 4.11 ........................ 57
4.12 (a)
n = 0.2 (b) n = 0.4 (c) n = 0.6 ()()
()
.............................................................................................................................. 61
4.13 (a)
n = 0.2 (b) n = 0.4 (c) n = 0.6 ()()
()
.............................................................................................................................. 62
4.14 n = 0.2 ....... 63
4.15 n = 0.2 ()
(a)~(e) t = 61.1s ~ 64.1s .............................................. 64
4.15 () n = 0.2 ()
(a)~(e) t = 61.1s ~ 64.1s .............................................. 65
4.16 n = 0.2 ............. 66
4.17 n = 0.4 ......... 67
4.18 n = 0.4 ()
(a)~(e) t = 61.1s ~ 64.1s .............................................. 68
4.18 () n = 0.4
() (a)~(e) t = 61.1s ~ 64.1s ................................. 69
4.19 n = 0.4 ............. 70
4.20 n = 0.6 ......... 71
4.21 n = 0.6 ()
(a)~(e) t = 61.1s ~ 64.1s .............................................. 72
4.21 () n = 0.6 ()
(a)~(e) t = 61.1s ~ 64.1s .............................................. 73
4.22 n = 0.6 ............. 74

VIII

 4.23 n = 0.2 ......... 75

4.24 n = 0.2 ............. 76
4.25 n = 0.4 ......... 77
4.26 n = 0.4 ............. 78
4.27 n = 0.6 ......... 79
4.28 n = 0.6 ............. 80

IX

C'

C0

C1

C1 ~ 0.0054

C2

C2 ~ 0.0171

C3

C3 ~ 0.0027

C1

C1 ~ 1.44

C2

C2 ~ 1.92

CA

(added mass coefficient)

Cd

Cd ~ 0.09

ci

c0

(phase celerity)

E~9.0

E( k )

K( k )

Ur

(Ursell number)

u*

~ 0.3

Kronecker delta

~ 0.1

'

XI

~ 1.3

~ 1.0

()
(Darcys volume averaging operator)
f

(intrinsic averaging operator)

()

i, j

()

XII


1-1

L S
(Bragg resonance)
(Bragg reflection)

(linear
wave) Stokes
Stokes
1.1 1.3
Huntinton (Huntinton Beach, Southem California)

1.1
Prof. Harry Yeh

 1.2
Prof. Harry Yeh

1.3
Prof. Harry Yeh

1-2

(Cnoidal wave)

Korteweg de Vries (1895)Wiegle

(1960)

(modulus)m m
1 m 0 (2005)
Goring Raichlen (1980) Navier-Stokes
Ur (Ursell Number)

Ohyama (1995)

Chang (2005)

Losada (1995)
Losada
(transition regions) (transmission regions)
Losada
(1997)
Ur

Huang (2003)

Lara
(2006) COBRAS (COrnell BReaking wave
And Structures)
Lin (2007)
COBRAS

Davies Heathershaw

(1984)

Kirby Anton (1990)

Miles Miles

Hsu (2001)

Miles (1981)

Hsu (2003)
( Evolution Equation for Mild-Slope Equation, EEMSE)
( 2004a ) Boussinesq
Hsu (2004) RANS

 HF (Height Function)
(2004b)
Cho
(2004)

Mei (1988)
Ekofisk Bailard
(1990) Kirby Anton (1990)
(Cape Canaveral Beach , Florida)

0.4

Yoon Liu (1987)

Cho Lee (2004)

Lin
Ron (2007)
Laplaces

 RANS (Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes Equations)

Hsu (2002) VARANS (volume-averaged / Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes Equations)

1-3

COBRAS (COrnell BReaking wave And

Structures)

2-1

COBRAS (COrnell BReaking wave And Structures) Los Alamos

RIPPLE (othe et al., 1991) Lin Liu
RANS
VARANS VARANS
n = 1 RANS
(Volume of fluid, VOF)

2-1-1

VARANS (Volume-Averaged / Reynolds Averaged

Navier-Stokes Equations)

ui
=0
xi

(2.1.1)

m
ui
ui
1 p
1 ij
+ uj
=
+ gi +
t
x j
xi
x j

(2.1.2)

(2.1.1)(2.1.2)
Navier-Stokes (NSE) i j 1 2
( x )( y )ui i g i i
t ijm

ijm = 2 ij

(2.1.3)

(2.1.3) ij

1 ui u j
+

2 x j xi

ij =

(2.1.4)

NSE (DNS)
NSE

(Reynolds decomposition)

ui = ui + ui'

(2.1.5)

pi = pi + pi'

(2.1.6)

(2.1.5)(2.1.6)
'

ui' = p ' = 0

(2.1.7)

(2.1.5)(2.1.6) (2.1.1)(2.1.2)

ui
=0
xi

(2.1.8)

m
' '
ui
ui
1 p
1 ij uiu j
+ uj
=
+ gi +

t
x j
xi
x j
x j

(2.1.9)

ijm
ui ui u j
p

+
=
+ gi +
+
ui'u 'j
t
x j
xi
x j x j

(2.1.10)

(2.1.8)(2.1.9)(2.1.10) RANS (Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes Equations) ui'u 'j (Reynold stress)

Hsu (2002) RANS

VARANS (volume-averaged / Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes Equations):

ui
xi

ui
t

=0

(2.1.11)

uj

ui

n(1 + c A ) x j

1 n p
=

1 + C A xi

ui'u 'j
x j

1 ij
+
+ ng i

x j

1 (1 n) 2
(1 n)
ui + 2

2 2
1 + C A n D50
n D50

u1

+ u2

ui

(2.1.12)

(Darcys volume averaging operator)

10

a =

1
a dV
V V f

(2.1.13)

V V f
(intrinsic averaging operator)
f

1
Vf

Vf

a dV

(2.1.14)

[(2.1.13)(2.1.14)]:

a =n a

(2.1.15)

a n :

n=

Vf
V

(2.1.12) C A (added-mass coefficient)

:

C A = 0.34

(1 n)
n

(2.1.16)

van Gent (1994)Liu (1999)Nield

Bejan (1999) = 200 = 1.1
VARANS [(2.1.11)(2.1.12)] n = 1
RANS

11

2-1-2

(2-1-1) RANS NS
( ui'u 'j ) (Reynold stresses tern)
RANS
()

(constitutive equation)

RANS

( ,the turbulent kinetic energy) ( ,the turbulent
dissipation rate)
(eddy viscosity)
(2.1.10) (Reynold stress)

2
ui'u 'j = 2t ij + ij
3

(2.1.17)

ij Kronecker delta t

2
t = Cd

(2.1.18)

(2.1.18) Cd Rodi (1980):

Cd = 0.09

(2.1.19)

( )( )

1
2

= ui'ui'

(2.1.20)

12

 ui'
=
x
j

(2.1.21)

= / (molecular kinematic viscosity)

2-1-3

(2-1-3 )

Shih (1996) (non-linear Reynolds stress model)

Shih
(1996)

2 ui u j 2
uiuj = Cd
+
+ ij
x j xi 3
3 ui ul u j ul 2 ul u
2 C1
+

xl x j xl xi 3 x xl ij
u
+ C2 i
x

u
+ C3
x
i

1 ul ul
ij
x 3 x x
u 1 ul ul

ij
x j 3 x x

u j

(2.1.22)
C1 C2 C 3 Couette shear flow Lin ( 1998 )

C1 = 0.0054C2 = 0.0171 C3 = 0.0027

(2.1.23)

C1 = C2 = C3 = 0 (2.1.22)
(isotropic)(2.1.17)(2.1.23)

13


Lin (1998)

2
1
1
=
Cd =
C
,
1
2

3 7.4 + Smax
185.2 + Dmax

1
1

C2 =
C
=
,
3
2
2
58.5 + Dmax
370.4 + Dmax

(2.1.24)

Smax =

max i

xi

(2.1.25)

Dmax =

max i

x j

(2.1.26)

(2.1.24)
(2.1.25)(2.1.26) Smax Dmax
(2.1.19)(2.1.23)
Rodi (1980) Navier-Stokes
( )

+ uj
=
t
x j x j

t

ui
+

uiuj
x j

x j

(2.1.27)

( )

+ uj
=
t
x j x j

t

ui u j ui
2
+
+
C2

+ C1 t

x
x
x
x

i
j
j

j
(2.1.28)

14

 C1 C2 Rodi (1980)

C1 = 1.44 C2 = 1.92 = 1.0 = 1.3

(2.1.29)

uiu j ui / x j

(2.1.27) 2.1
2.1

+ uj
t
x j

t
+

x j
x j

uiuj

ui
x j

(2.1.28) 2.2
2.2

t

+

x j

x j

u u u
C1 t i + j i
x j xi x j

2
C2

15

2-1-4

( )( )[
(2.1.28)(2.1.28)] VARANS

( )
uj
uiuj ui

+
=
+
t
x j
x j
n x j
n

t
+
+ n

x j

(2.1.30)
( )

uj

+
= C1
n x j
n
t

ui'u 'j

ui
x j

2
+ nC2

x j

x j

C2

(2.1.31)

1
dV
V V f

(2.1.32)

1
dV
V V f

(2.1.33)

=
=

t = Cd

(2.1.34)

Shih (1996):

16

 ui
uj
2

ij t
+
x j
3
xi

3
ui ul

u j ul

2 ul u

ij
2 2 C1
+

3
x
x
x
x
x
x

l
j
l
i
l

ui u j

1 ul ul
ij
+ C2

x x

3 x x

u u

ul ul
1
ij
+ C3

xi x j

3 x x

uiuj =

(2.1.35)
(2.1.30)(2.1.35) C1 C2 Cd C1 C2
C3 [2-1-3 (2.1.23)(2.1.24)]
Smax Dmax :
u

max

xi

(2.1.36)

=
max

x j

(2.1.37)

Smax =

Dmax

n = 1 Lin(1998) RANS
(2.1.30)(2.1.31)
(Nakayama Kuwahara, 1999):

(1 n)2.5
= 39.0
( u1
n

= 3.7

(1 n)
( u1
n

2 3

+ u2 )

1
D50

(2.1.38)

+ u2 )

(2.1.39)

n = 1

17

2-2

2-2-1

= 0
(2.1.28)
= 0
(2.1.27)
Lin (1998)

1
2

= ut2

(2.2.40)

(2.2.38) ut = ci ci Lin (1998)

2.5 103 (2.1.12)

= Cd

2
t

(2.2.41)

t = Lin (1998) 0.1

18

2-2-2

(Cn )

Wiegel (1960)
:

x t

L T

= t + Hcn 2 2 K (k )

, k

(2.2.42)

(2.2.26)t : (Mei, 1989; pp. 546)

t =

E (k )
H

m
1

m
K (k )

(2.2.43)

H L T K (k ) E (k )
(completely elliptic integral of the first kind with modulus, k )(completely elliptic integral of the
second kind with modulus, k ) k ( m )(modulus)
k = m k x
t
m m H L

HL2 =

16 3
2
h mK ( k )
3

(2.2.44)

H 1
E (k )
2m3
L2 = ghT 2 1 +

h m
K (k )

(2.2.45)

19

(2.2.28)(2.2.29) g h
(2.2.29)(2.2.28)
16h3m 2 K (k ) 2
T =

E (k )
3 gH mh + H 2 m 3

K (k )

(2.2.46)

H T h m m
(2.2.26) (2.2.27)
:

5 3(t + h) (t + h) 2 3H (t + h) H 2
H2 4
u = gh +

2
2
cn () 4h 2 cn ()
4
2
h
4
h
2
h
2
h

8 HK (k ) 2 h ( z + h) 2
2
2
2
2
2
2

m
sn
()
cn
()
cn
()
dn
()
sn
()
dn
()

L2
2h

(2.2.47)

w = gh ( z + h)

2 HK (m)
sn() cn() dn()
Lh

(t + h) H 2

32 K (k ) 2 2 ( z + h) 2
m sn 2 () m cn 2 () dn 2 ()
h
+ cn () +
1 +

2
h
h
3L
2

(2.2.48)

x t
cn 2 () = cn 2 2 K (k ) , k
L T

(2.2.49a)

sn 2 () = 1 cn 2 ()

(2.2.49b)

dn 2 () = 1 m 1 cn 2 ()

(2.2.49c)

(2.2.26)(2.2.31)(2.2.32)

20

Torres-Freyermuth, A. (2010)

'

C ' = g (h + ' )

(2.2.50)

(2.2.40)(2.2.41)

2-2-3

(1)(2)
(sponge layer)(3) (Radiation boundary condition)
(Radiation boundary condition)

+ c0
=0
t
x

(2.2.51)

c0 = g ( + h )

(2.2.52)

(2.2.51) c0 (phase celerity)(2.2.52)

RANS = (u, , ...)

21

2-2-4

(no slip boundary

condition)

(log-law)

du u*
=
dy k1 y

(2.2.53)

u* (frictional velocity) (log-law):

u 1
uy
= ln( E * )

u* k1

(2.2.54)

E = 9.0
:

du u*3
= u v
=
dy k1 y
' '

(2.2.55)

u*2
Cd

2-2-5

(2.2.56)

22

=0
=0
N
N

(2.2.57)

2-3

(finite difference method)

(two-step projection) VARAN
(volume of fluid method, VOF)
(partial cell)

2-3-1

( two-step projection )

(two-step projection) Chorin (1968, 1969)

NS VARANS n = 1

RANS RANS
(intermediate velocity)
u%i (2.1.9):

u%iq +1 uiq
= u qj j + gi + ij
t
x j
x j
q

(2.3.58)

(2.3.58) q ( q + 1 )

uiq +1 u%iq +1
1 p q +1
= q
xi
t

(2.3.59)

uiq +1
=0
xi

(2.3.60)

(2.3.59) uiq +1 (2.3.60)

23

 (Poisson pressure equation, PPE):

1 p q +1 1 u%iq +1

=
xi q xi t xi

(2.3.61)

(2.3.61) ( n + 1 )
( q + 1 )(2.3.61)
(2.3.59)

2-3-2

( finite difference method )

(finite difference method)

( P )
(turbulent kinematic energy, ) (turbulent dissi-

pation rate, ) (VOF function, F )

( u ) ( v )

2.1

24


v i , j +1 2
Fi , j Pi , j

u i 1 2, j

yi

i, j i, j

v i + 1, j 1 2

u i +1 2 , j

Fi + 1, j Pi + 1, j

i + 1, j i +1, j

v i , j 1 2

u i + 3 2, j

v i + 1, j 1 2

yi 1

xi +1

xi

2.1

ui , j =

1
( ui+1/2, j + ui1/2, j )
2

(2.3.62)

vi , j =

1
( vi, j+1/2 + vi, j1/2 )
2

(2.3.63)

ui , j +1/2 =

vi +1/2, j =

ui , j +1y j + ui , j y j +1

(2.3.64)

y j + y j +1

vi +1, j xi + vi , j xi +1

(2.3.65)

xi + xi +1

xi +1/2 =

1
( xi + xi+1 )
2

(2.3.66)

yi +1/2 =

1
( yi + yi+1 )
2

(2.3.67)

25


(2.3.58)
:

u
u
u
u
+ v = ui +1/2, j
+ vi +1/2, j
x
y
x i +1/2, j
y i+1/2, j

(2.3.68)

v
v
v
v
+ v = ui , j +1/2
+ vi , j +1/2
x
y
x i , j +1/2
y i , j +1/2

(2.3.69)

(central difference) (up-

wind method)

u

x i +1/2, j

u

x i +1/2, j

u

x i , j

u

x i +1, j

if

ui +1.2, j >0
(2.3.70)

ui +1.2, j <0

if

u
u
xi +1 + xi
x i , j
x i +1, j
=
xi + xi +1

(2.3.71)

ui +1/2, j ui 1/2, j
u
=
xi
x i , j

(2.3.72)

ui +3/2, j ui +1/2, j
u
=

xi +1
x i +1, j

(2.3.73)

( )

26


u
u
= 1 + sgn ( ui +1/2, j ) xi +1

x i +1/2, j
x i , j
u
+ 1 sgn ( ui +1/2, j ) xi / x
x i +1, j

x = xi +1 + xi + sgn ( ui +1/2, j ) ( xi +1 xi )

(2.3.74)

(2.3.75)

u
u
=
1 + sgn ( vi +1/2, j ) y j +1/2

y i +1/2, j
y i +1/2, j 1/2

u
+ 1 sgn ( vi +1/2, j ) y j 1 2
/ y
y i +1/2, j +1/2

y = y j +1/2 + y j 1/2 + sgn ( vi +1/2, j )( y j +1/2 y j 1/2 )

(2.3.76)

(2.3.77)

u
u
u
= i +1/2, j +1 i +1/2, j
y
y j +1/2
i +1/2, j +1/2

(2.3.78)

u
ui +1/2, j 1
u
= i +1/2, j
y
y j 1/2
i +1/2, j 1/2

(2.3.79)

(2.3.74)(2.3.77)sgn
1 , if < 0
sgn() = 0 , if = 0
1 , if > 0

(2.3.80)

Lin (1998) 0.3~0.5 RANS

0.3 x y

27

(2.3.58)

xx + xy
x
y

(2.3.81)

yx + yy
x
y

(2.3.82)

x y

( xx )i+1, j ( xx )i, j

xx

xi +1/2
x i +1/2, j

(2.3.83)

( xy )i+1/2, j+1/2 ( xy )i+1/2, j1/2

y xy
y j

i +1/2, j

(2.3.84)

(Poisson

pressure equation, PPE)[(2.3.61)]

1 p n+1 1 p n+1 1 u% v%

+
= +
x n x y n y t x y

(2.3.85)

(2.3.85)
:

28

n
n +1

1 p n+1
1 1 p
1 p
n
n
n

=


x x i , j xi i +1/2, j x i +1/2, j i 1/2, j x i 1/2, j

1
=
xi

n +1
n +1
1 pin++1,1 j pin, +j 1
1 pi , j pi 1, j

n
i +1/2, j xi +1/2 i 1/2, j xi 1/2

(2.3.86)

1 p n+1
1
n
=
y y i , j y j
1
=
y j

n
n +1
1 p
1 p

n
n

i , j +1/2 y i , j +1/2 i , j 1/2 y i , j 1/2
n +1
n +1
1 pin, +j +11 pin, +j 1
1 pi , j pi , j 1

n
i , j +1/2 y j +1/2 i , j 1/2 y j 1/2

(2.3.87)

u%i +1/2, j u%i 1/2, j v%i , j +1/2 v%i , j 1/2

u% v%
+
=
+
x y
xi
y j

i , j

(2.3.88)

(2.3.86)(2.3.88)(2.3.85)

2-3-3

( volume of fluid method )

Hirt Nichols

(1981) (the VOF function, F)

F 0 1 F 0
F 1F

0~1
2.2

29

 ( x, y , t )

D

=
+u v
=0
Dt t
x y

(2.3.89)

( x, y, t ) = F ( x, y, t ) f

(2.1.1)

+ ( uF ) + ( vF ) = 0
t x
y

(2.3.90)

(F)( 2.1)

Fi ,nj+1 = Fi ,nj

t n+1
t n+1
1
n
ui +1/2, j FRn uin+1/2,
F
vi , j +1/2 FTn vin, +j 11/2 FBn )

(
)
(
j L
xi
y j
(2.3.91)

RL T B

F
F
xi 1/2 +
xi +1/2

n
x i +1/2, j
x i 1/2, j
F

=
xi 1/2 + xi +1/2
x i , j

xi 1/2 n

x
Fi +1, j Fi ,nj + i +1/2 Fi ,nj Fi n1, j
x
xi 1/2

= i +1/2
xi 1/2 + xi +1/2

(2.3.92)
Fi ,nj

Fi ,nj +1y j +1 + Fi ,nj y j + Fi ,nj 1y j 1

n

Fi , j =
y j 1 + y j + y j +1

(2.3.93)

30

 Fi+n1, j Fin1, j

Fi +n1, j +1y j +1 + Fi +n1, j y j + Fi +n1, j 1y j 1

n

Fi +1, j =
y j 1 + y j + y j +1

(2.3.94)

Fi n1, j +1y j +1 + Fi n1, j y j + Fi n1, j 1y j 1

n

Fi 1, j =
y j 1 + y j + y j +1

(2.3.95)

2.2

31

2-3-4

( partial cell )

(partial cell)

(openness coefficient, )
0 1 = 0 ; = 1
0 1
2.3
:
( ui )
=0
xi

(2.3.96)

( ui )
( ui )
p
+ u j
=
+ gi + ij
t
x j
x j
xi

(2.3.97)

32

 2.3

33

Torres-Freyermuth, A. (2010)
COBRAS

Chang (2005) Hsiao (2002)

COBRAS
Chang (2005)

COBRAS

Hsiao
(2002)

3-1

Chang (2005)

8.4 m x 3m 0.24m y 0.06m x = 0 m (lee-side)

8.4m x = 0.002 m
y = 0.001m t = 25s H = 0.036m
h = 0.24m T = 2.0 s D = 0.12m B = 0.4m

34

(2.2.26)(2.2.31)(2.2.32)

3.1 x = 0.2m x = 8.01m x = 9.9m

x = 0m t = 30 s
t = 40 s

3.2
3.3 3.4 3.1 t = 31s t = 33s
Wiegel (1960)

3.5 Chang (2005)

3.6 x = 8.2m x = 0.15m
x = 1.5m Chang (2005)
3.6 x = 0.15m x = 1.5m

(free wave)

35

 3.1

36

 3.2 x = 0.2m
(a) t = 31s (b) t = 31.5s (c) t = 32s (d) t = 32.5s (e) t = 33s

37

 3.3 x = 8.01m
(a) t = 31s (b) t = 31.5s (c) t = 32s (d) t = 32.5s (e) t = 33s

38

 3.4 x = 9.9m
(a) t = 31s (b) t = 31.5s (c) t = 32s (d) t = 32.5s (e) t = 33s

39

wavegenerator

1:10slopingbeach

13.0m

13.0m

3.5 Chang (2005)()

3.6 COBRAS Chang (2005)

40

4.0m

3-2

Hsiao(2002)

0 m x 16 m 0m y 0.245m x = y = 0.005m

H = 0.027 m h = 0.175m T = 1.0 s

(porosity, n p ) (per-

meability, K p ) ( d50 ) n = 0.42 K p = 3.975 10 7

d50 = 0.019 :
(permeability) K p
(added-mass coefficient) C A
(turbulent friction coefficient) C f
Van Gent(1995):

1 n
1 n Kp
d502 n3
C
=

C
=
Kp =
A
f
n
n d50
(1 n)2

(3.2.1)

= 0.34
3.7 Hsiao (2002) 3.8
Hsiao (2002)
(s1)

(s2~s6) (weather side) (s7)

(s8~s9) (lee side)

(free wave)

41

2@0.3m
8.0m

2.0m

5@0.2m
1:10slopingbeach

wavegenerator

y
h

0.135m

10.0m

1.2m

0.8m

x
14m

3.7 Hsiao (2002)()

3.8 COBRAS Hsiao (2002)

42

4m

Kirby Anton

( 1990 )

(quasi steady stay)

(porosity, n p )

(vorticity) (turbulent kinetic energy, TKE)

4.1
4.1

n p

Case 1

np = 0

Case 2

n p = 0.2

Case 3

n p = 0.4

Case 4

n p = 0.6

Case 5

np = 0

Case 6

n p = 0.2

Case 7

n p = 0.4

Case 8

n p = 0.6

43

4-1

Hsu (2001) Cho (2004)

()
()

Lin Ron (2007)

(2005)
Ur
0.08m
3s 0.4m

: x = 0m x 130m y 0.6m
x = 0.02m y = 0.004m
x = 54m x = 66.6m x = 54m

S = 2.9m ( 2 S

= 0.97 m ) D = 0.15m B = 1m S

4.1 D = 0.15m
B = 1m

4.2
( x = 40m ~ 54m ) t = 50 s
(case2~case8)

(case1) t = 50 s
4.3

( x = 40m ~ 60m )

44

 4.4 ( x = 45m ~ 54.5m )

4.4 (crest)
( x = 48.9m )

(trough) (2009)
Stokes (partial
standing wave) 4.4
( t = 61.1s )

( t = 61.9 s ) x = 48.5m
( t = 62.7 s )
t = 63.5s x = 48.5m

( t = 64.1s )
(vortex)

(case5)
4.5 4.6

(2009) Stokes

( 2S

= 0.937 )

Stokes (node) (antinode)

4.5 x = 35.5m
x = 41m

45

( 2S

= 0.97 )

Chang (2004) 4.5 4.6

4.7

4.8

t = 61.1s
(vortex)
t = 61.9 s (jet)

t = 62.7 s

Chang (2005)

4.7
4.8 4.7

46

 4.10

4.10

4.11

(diffusion)
4.11

0.6m
y

0.4m
B

54.0m

12.6m

63.4m

4.1 ()

47

 4.2

48

 4.3

49

 4.4 x = 40m ~ 54m ( m1 s )

50

 4.5
()()()

4.6
()()()

51

 4.7 ( m1 s )

52

(a)

(b)

(c)

4.8 ( m1 s )()(a)~(e)

t = 61.1s ~ 64.1s

53

(d)

(e)

4.8 ()( m1 s )()(a)~(e)

t = 61.1s ~ 64.1s

54

 4.9 (

55

)( m s )

 4.10 ( m1 s )

56

 4.11 (

57

)( m s )

4-2

(case2~case4case6~case8)

4.12(a) 4.12(c) n = 0.20.40.6

Chang (2004)

4.13(a) 4.13(c) n = 0.2 0.4 0.6

4.14 n = 0.2
4.15 4.16
n = 0.2 ( 4.7 4.8)
4.8

Chang (2005)

58


4.15

4.16 4.19 4.22 n = 0.20.4

0.6 4.9

4.16 n = 0.2

4.19 4.22
n = 0.2 (

4.16)
4.16 4.19 4.22

4.23 4.25 4.27 n = 0.20.4

0.6

n = 0.6

59

4.24 4.26 4.28 n = 0.20.4

0.6

n = 0.2

4.15 4.18 4.21

n = 0.6

60

(a)

(b)

(c)

4.12 (a)

n = 0.2 (b) n = 0.4 (c) n = 0.6 ()()

()

61

(a)

(b)

(c)

4.13 (a)

n = 0.2 (b) n = 0.4 (c) n = 0.6 ()()

()

62

 4.14 n = 0.2 ( m1 s )

63

(a)

(b)

(c)

4.15 n = 0.2 ( m1 s )()(a)~(e)

t = 61.1s ~ 64.1s

64

(d)

4.15 () n = 0.2 ( m1 s )()

(a)~(e) t = 61.1s ~ 64.1s

65

 4.16 n = 0.2 (

66

)( m s )

 4.17 n = 0.4 ( m1 s )

67

(a)

(b)

(c)

4.18 n = 0.4 ( m1 s )()

(a)~(e) t = 61.1s ~ 64.1s

68

(d)

(e)

4.18 () n = 0.4 ( m1 s )()

(a)~(e) t = 61.1s ~ 64.1s

69

 4.19 n = 0.4 (

70

)( m s )

 4.20 n = 0.6 ( m1 s )

71

(a)

(b)

(c)

4.21 n = 0.6 ( m1 s )()

(a)~(e) t = 61.1s ~ 64.1s

72

(d)

(e)

4.21 () n = 0.6 ( m1 s )()

(a)~(e) t = 61.1s ~ 64.1s

73

 4.22 n = 0.6 (

74

)( m s )

 4.23 n = 0.2 ( m1 s )

75

 4.24 n = 0.2 (

76

)( m s )

 4.25 n = 0.4 ( m1 s )

77

 4.26 n = 0.4 (

78

)( m s )

 4.27 n = 0.6 ( m1 s )

79

 4.28 n = 0.6 (

80

)( m s )


CORAS

5-1

1.

2.

3.

4.

5. n = 0.2

81

5-2

1. m

2. Ur Ur

3.
( 2S )
L

4.

5.

82


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11. Hsu, T.-W., Chang, H.-K., Tsai, L.-H., (2001). Experiments on the Bragg
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21. Lara, J.L., Garcia, N., Losada, I.J., (2006). RANS modeling applied to
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37. Torres-Freyermuth, A., Lara, J.L., Losada, I.J., (2010). Numerical modelling of short- and long-wave transformation on a barred beach. Coast.
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42. Boussinesq

86


3 2 1-24

(2004a)
43. RANS

51 (2004b)

44. Cn

5 1 13-30 (2005).

45. 2009

87