Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Final Project
On
A Study On
APEX Holdings Limited
For the Degree of
B.Sc. Hons in knitwear Manufacture & Technology
1|Page
Prepared for
Md. Jamal Uddin
Associate Professor
Cell: 01715003599
Head of Department
Knitwear Manufacture & Technology
BGMEA University of Fashion &
Technology
Prepared by
Md. Khalid Amin
Id.:091-275-0-35
Batch: 091 (KMT-2)
Knitwear Manufacture & Technology
BGMEA University of Fashion
&Technology
To
Md. Jamal Uddin
Associate Professor
Head of Department
Knitwear Manufacture & Technology
BGMEA University of Fashion Technology
Dear Sir,
I am very glad to submit this report to you on the Modern Merchandising Management Techniques - A case
study on Apex Holdings Limited. The report deals with a brief view of garments industry of Bangladesh and
current scenario of a RMG business evolved with garments business in Bangladesh.
It has been a great experience of working on this report and I have got a glimpse of a thrust sector of
Bangladesh. I have tried my best to make this report a high quality one. Some data, which were available, are
included in this report. There may be some lack of sufficient data that I could not collect from desire authority.
I thank you for any supplementary interpretation or clarification that may be required. I hope this report will
satisfy you & meet the requirements for the B.Sc. Hons in knitwear Manufacture & Technology. I would like to
request you to accept my report & oblige thereby.
Sincerely Yours
________________________________
Md. Khalid Amin
Id.:091-275-0-35
Batch: 092(KMT-2)
Head of Department
Knitwear Manufacture & Technology
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology
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ACKNOWLEDGMENT
At the very beginning, I would like to express my deepest gratitude to almighty ALLAH for giving me the
strength and composure to finish the report. It certainly it would not have been possible without the help of
many people. I would like to acknowledge my appreciation to all those who had helped me during the process.
First, I must express my gratitude to Mr. Jamal Uddin, Associate Professor. & Head of the department of
Knitwear Manufacture & Technology (KMT) - my Honorable faculty, who helped me to choose a topic that was
of interest and could be of use to my organization. His guidance in helping me to separate the important and
necessary details from the unnecessary certainly helped me to stay on the correct track (and reduced my work
somewhat).
Second, I also give thanks express to the entire employee of Apex Holdings Limited in every department those
who really very much helpful.
Lastly, I would like to thank my family who has been with me. Without such a wonderful family, I do not think I
could have withstood all these four, extremely difficult, years of university, let alone complete this report.
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The B.Sc. Hons in knitwear Manufacture & Technology is designed to meet the needs of the
students who want to develop their career as executives in the fields of different business
areas as well as teaching and doing job in Apparel Industry. To obtain this degree, Internship
program is an integral part.
The report is prepared on the basis of 2 (two) months and onward practical experience at the
Apex Holdings Limited as well as the touch of Garments Sector of Bangladesh. The internship
program helped me a lot to learn about the practical environment and situation of a Garments
Sector and also make up a bridge between the theoretical and practical aspects.
For any technical education, practical experience has almost equal importance in association
with the theoretical knowledge. By means of practical knowledge it is possible for the students
to apply theoretical knowledge. The industrial training course is engineered in such a way that
it enhances understanding power, skills of the performer. It helps the students to be familiar
with technical matters, various stages of the production and modern machinery used in the
production. It also provides clear conception about management system, work study,
efficiency, production planning and control, cost analysis, inventory management,
procurement, utilities, their operation techniques and maintenances of machinery. It is true
that the above mentioned matters cannot be achieved successfully only with theoretical
knowledge. This is why it should be accomplished with practical knowledge in which it is based
on. This makes the students familiar with industrial environment which ultimately encourage
them, and makes self-confident as well.
I believe that 90 days long industrial training made me hard worker, innovative and
enthusiastic and very punctual. Now I realize that I shall be able to work in the industry
adopting the environment.
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Reason of Development:
The prime reason why garment industries have come out to be the champion in the field of
export is obviously the cheap labor. Labor is not as cheap anywhere in the world as it is in
Bangladesh. Women contribute to the working force in these garment factories, as they are
relatively cheaper than men. A worker works here long hours free or cheap meals. But this
has not prevented thousands of women from work. It has given them a steady income,
economic independence, self-reliance and dignity, because they are earning their own living
and managing their family expenses.
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The 42 sewing lines are equipped to produce garments starting from the basic childrens items
to ladies / mens hooded sport jackets based on designs and specifications and accessories as
required by the buyer. The total production capacity of the ASKML is 1,300,000 pieces per
month, as shown below, with sufficient flexibility to allow 25-40% additional capacity of any
one of the item.
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AYDL has achieved the international standard ISO 9001:2000 quality management system
certification accredited by UKAS. AYDL has also achieved OEKO Tex 100 standard certification.
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ATPML is a fully vertical setup to manufacture high quality Knit-garments and both ladies &
mans underwear using in-house fabrics. High quality knit-garments for infant and children are
manufactured in one floor. In a separate floor Mans and ladies underwear and others
intimate
apparels
are made. Both the sewing
floors use in-house fabrics
and
components
manufactured within the
Apex textile complex.
The plant is equipped with
facilities
to
produce
garments starting from
the infant sleep sack /
body suits to ladies /
mens
hooded
sport
jackets, based on designs, fabrics and accessories as required by the buyer. The garments can
be from basic to complicated cut & sew, with placement prints, embroidery or both.
14 | P a g e
15 | P a g e
Executive Summary
Apex Lingerie Limited (ALL) is setup as a specialized plant for brassieres and
brassiere panty sets manufacturing and exporting to Europe and USA. It is a
company under management of Apex Holdings Limited, a 23 years old group
of 100% export oriented manufacturing enterprises in textiles, Knit apparels
and frozen food in Bangladesh.
After extensive training for over a year under 8 expatriate experts from
Triumph (Philippines), the project went into commercial production with a
capacity of about 20,000 dozens / month in January 2000. Recently, it has
expanded the capacity to 55,000 dozens / Month and moved into a new
multistoried building. The sewing floor has been air-conditioned to maintain
appropriate conditions for intimate apparels. The management, employees
and workers of Apex Lingerie are trained to follow high quality standards and
the compliance standards of ILO on workers rights & welfare, and the
environmental laws.
Apex Holdings Limited (AHL), the groups management company (see flow
chart 1), AHL will provide services of computerized and networked data
management, computerized payroll services, computerized accounting setup,
internal audit services, computerized commercial documentation, and
efficient office and display space, and Legal services. ALL will have its own
accounts, commercial, merchandizing and purchase, administration and
factory management.
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Raw Material
Inspection
Raw Material
Inventory
Deliver To
Cutting
Cutting
Sewing
Packing
Shipment
17 | P a g e
Deliver to Sewing
& Packing
Molding
Production Facilities
Pattern, sample and design department
Cutting department o Molding &die-cutting section Laminating
section
Sewing department
QAD department
Machine Maintenance & attachment-making department
Captive power & steam generation
Embroidery and printing facilities in Apex Spinning & Knitting Mills
Limited and dyed yarn / thread from Apex Yarn Dyeing Limited Raw
Materials source
Both, imported and local, fabrics and accessories can be used if
desired by the final buyer.
Synthetic warp knit* or woven fabrics are imported under duty-free
bonded warehouse facility.
Cotton and cotton-elastin fabrics are locally made in Apexs Knitting
& dyeing plant. Yarn dyed strips, checks and other designs are being
produced with dyed yarn from Apex Yarn Dyeing Limited.
Narrow fabrics, such as, straps, trimming elastics, tapes etc are
made in ALLs backward linkage section. Yarn dyed narrow fabrics
are also produced. * Under wires, Hook & eye tape, Ring & buckle
and some special items are imported in bulks.
Hangers, poly-bags, printed individual boxes, woven & printed labels
etc are locally available to make various shop presentations.
By end 2004, ALL will start commercial production of the warp knit
fabric production section to become fully a vertical operation for
intimate apparels.
18 | P a g e
Philosophy
Intimate apparels are unique because it has to accomplish the demand of anatomical function
as well as meet the intimate fashion desires of the individual. During the last half of the 20th
century intimate apparels broke away from the social constrains and became the domain of
women. Brassiere and panty design has derived new vitality from the entry of large number of
women into the work place and better health awareness. Modern brassieres are much lighter
weight and fits comfortably to the contours of modern women. The concept of perfect fit
brassiere evolved only in the last few decades from the new fabrics and CAD based designs. A
modern brassiere is one that is manufactured to fit perfectly and yet fulfills your intimate
fashion desires. Apex Lingerie Limited's philosophy is to produce modern brassiere for the
modern women. ALL has focused on the mid to up market product quality, materials and
styles, but at a lower to mid market price range.
Quality
To maintain compliance standards for the European, the USA and Japan market, Apex Lingerie
has setup a separate Quality Assurance Department. Under the leadership of a highly
experienced quality manager, a team of well-trained quality inspectors operate QA
Department independently from the production team and reports only to the upper
management. The basic approach to good quality is to use good quality materials, right
methods, use correct attachments and use properly adjusted machines during production.
With this setup Apex has been able to maintain an AQL of less than 2.5
Inspectors from QA Department and each of the departments quality controllers inspect at all
the stages and records are maintained at all levels of the production and quality control,
including, complete broken needle records and needle detection records etc. Apexs other
factory has been using the OKO-TEX label for the last 6 years.
Capacity
Apex Lingerie Limited specializes in brassieres and brassiere-panty sets. The plant has 16 lines;
each line capacity is 125 to 130 dozens per day. The total production capacity of the plant is
52,000 to 55,000 dozens of brassiere and brassiere-panty sets per month.
19 | P a g e
Technical Team
Our production team was initially developed with the help of 8 expatriate experts and some
highly experienced local technical personnel. Presently, most of the technical team is made up
of experienced local personnel.
The workers of Apex Lingerie Limited have been extensively trained for 12 months and have
been running commercial production since January 2000. Currently 1300 workers are engaged
with the production.
20 | P a g e
Garments Section
This section is organized and fully equipped to inspect up to 50% of the fabrics and 100% of
the accessories upon delivery to the factory. The fabric inspection machine and the other
inspection setup like light box for shade matching, GSM checking machine are located near the
warehouse, where the raw materials are stored until ready for cutting. The quality controllers,
QAD personnel and Cutting department ensure that all raw materials meet customer
specifications. The pattern, sample and design department makes the initial pattern, checks
by making samples and then prepares the final pattern and marker for the cutting department
using CAD system (Lectra systems).
Cutting department
The cutting department for each of the sewing floors is equipped with fabric inspection, 6 to 8
cutting tables, straight knife, band knife and stripe fabric pilling or lace pilling setups. The
capacities of each cutting departments are carefully matched with the respective sewing
capacities, between 45,000 to
100,000 pieces each day. All cut
pieces are hecked and are
prepared into bundles of 12 to 24
pieces. The bundle baskets are
sent to the sewing section.
Before cutting 100% of the
fabrics are inspected and laid for
sufficient time on cutting tables
for relaxation.
Finishing department
Completed garments in size lots are cleaned of loose threads, dust etc in vacuum suction
device,
as
required.
Subsequently,
the
Garments are transferred
into an enclosed humidity
controlled (air conditioned)
room, where, for the Bra
and
underwears,
the
garments are inspected and
for the knitwears, the
garments are finished with
steam iron on vacuum
tables. After putting all
packaging accessories each
piece is checked with
needle detector before
packing for shipment. For
all orders, internal AQL is
determined before buyers
inspection.
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Machinery
The factory is situated in its own newly built multi-storied building with a built floor space of
91,800 square feet (8528 square meter) in 3 floors, with a provision for building another 4
floors (122400 sq ft or 11370 sq m). The ground floor houses the narrow fabrics knitting,
dyeing and finishing department and the first floor houses the cutting, molding & laminating;
pattern, sample & design; Machine maintenance & attachment making departments and Raw
materials warehouse. The second floor houses the complete sewing to packing departments.
In addition, finished goods warehouse and workers facilities are in either attached or nearly
23 | P a g e
Cutting Machineries
Description
Quantity
1 Sets
1 Sets
6 Sets
1 Sets
17 Sets
2 Sets
2 Sets
3 Sets
1 Sets
Quantity
6 set
2 set
5 sets
5 sets
1 sets
Laminating Machine
1 sets
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Sewing machinery
Description
Quantity
203
83
49
65
10
116
35
53
104
23
Fagoting machine
Embroidery Machine
TOTAL
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749
Description
Quantity
7
1
1
1
2
2
2
16
Type-KFN Series
Plain M/C
Double Weft Double Latch
Double Weft Single Latch
Warp picot device
Total KFn Machines
jacquard machine
Total needle loom machines
6
1
1
1
9
2
27
Crochet Section
Crochet Knitting machine
1.15 G
2.18 G
3.20 G
1
2
2
Covering Section
Double Covering
Single Covering
Spool Winder
1
1
1
Warping Section
Rigid Warping Machine
Elastane Warping Machine
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2
2
Ordering Info
How can you place order at Apex
to start with us, you or your representative can visit our factory to see our production facilities, products and
compliance issues.
Alternatively, can send us any of the following along with the sizes & colors you want and target date(s) for the
shipment(s).
A sample of the item(s) you want.
OR
A sketch of the item(s) you want with complete measurement chart.
OR
You can ask us to send you samples from our collections
Our merchandizing will give you our costing(s) and send counter sample(s) as soon as it can be done and
possible shipment date(s).
Delivery time and other Commercial issues
Typically an order can be made ready for shipment in 30-90 days depending on approvals of the buyer. Prior to
the confirmation of an order, order details and buyers desired delivery dates are sent to the PPIC (Production
Planning and Inventory Control) department. Upon receiving the export Letter of Credit, Apex Lingerie Limited's
merchandizing and commercial department issues purchase orders for the required raw materials. After supplier
confirmation of shipment date(s), PPIC department confirms. The production management team, PPIC
department, and QA Department coordinate the production and the commercial department oversees the
export and documentation
Compliance With
Delivery time and other Commercial issues:
Typically an order can be made ready for shipment in 30-90 days
depending on approvals of the buyer. Prior to the confirmation of an
order, order details and buyers desired delivery dates are sent to the
PPIC (Production Planning and Inventory Control) department. Upon
receiving the export Letter of Credit, Apex Lingeries merchandizing and
commercial department issues purchase orders for the required raw
materials. After supplier confirmation of shipment date(s), PPIC
department confirms. The production management team, PPIC
department, and Quality Assurance Department (QAD) coordinate the
production and the commercial department also oversees the export and
documentation.
28 | P a g e
BRA
PANTY
BRIEF
NIGHT WEAR
SWIM WEAR
BOXER
CAMI
H&M
DBA
Target
KAPPAHL
LINDEX
Hanes
CELIO
PIERREE CARDIN
JOHN LEWIS
HUNKEMOLLER
MATALAN
DEBENHAMS
REDCATS
MAIDENFORM
29 | P a g e
Assigned Points
In cm
< 3"
< 8cm
> 8 cm < 15 cm
> 15 cm < 23 cm
> 9"
> 23 cm
SL
30 | P a g e
No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any single defect.
No linear yard or meter can contain more than 4 points, regardless of the number of
Defects within that yard or meter.
A continuous running defect which exceeds 9 inches (23 cm) should be assigned 4
Points. In the event there is an additional defects within the same linear yard or meter
it
Should be considered as a separate defect and assigned defect point accordingly.
Any continuous defect (i.e., roll to roll shading, narrow or irregular width, creasing,
Uneven finish, barre, skew, etc.) should be assigned a maximum of 4 points for
every
Yard or meter within a shipment.
Lot Size
Inspection
Yards
Lot Size
Meters
Inspection
Meters
Percent of
Total Lot
0 - 2,500
0 - 2,300
20%
2,501 - 5,000
251 - 500
2,301 - 4500
230 - 450
10%
5,001 - 20,000
400 - 1,600
4,501 18,300
360 - 1465
8%
Yards
31 | P a g e
DESCRIPTION
POINTS ALLOWED
PER
INDIVIDUAL ROLL
20 points/100 yard
2
24 points/100 meter
25 points/100 yard
2
30 points/100 meter
30 points/100 yard
2
36 points/100 meter
25 points/100 yard
2
30 points/100 meter
Linen
Linen Blends
Rayon Blends
40 points/100 yard2
48 points/100 meter2
32 points/100 yard2
38 points/100 meter2
Madras
Muslin
60 points/100 yard
2
72 points/100 meter
32 | P a g e
POINTS ALLOWED
PER SHIPMENT
15 points/100 yard
2
18 point/100 meter
20 points/100 yard
2
24 points/100 meter
50 points/100 yard
2
60 points/100 meter
Mill Name
Roll length
Ticketed
Actual
Difference between ticketed and actual
Recorded cut bale width
1st Measurement At the start of the roll at least 2 meters or yards into the roll
2nd Measurement At the middle of the roll
3rd Measurement At the end of the roll at least 2 meters or yards before the end
Number of defect points per roll by 4 point system
Defect result calculated by roll in points/ 100 Sq Yards/Meters
Inspector comments if any per roll.
Note: Nordstrom reserves the right to request copies of documentation at any time
Construction defect: Any nonconformance or deficiency in construction of the fabric such as density, Count of
yarn, Fiber content, Wales/ inch, Course/ inch etc.
Latent defect:
These are hidden defect in the fabric and it is not found visually. These defects can be
identified by testing or other process. Such as color fastness, shrinkage, Tensile strength
etc.
Paten defect:
These defects can be observed in visual examination and can be quantified by using
grading system. Such as Slab, Hole, Missing yarn etc.
Other defect:
Some other defect may occur in the fabric which is considered as different as above 3
categories such as Length, Width, and Shade etc.
Major defect:
A defect that if conspicuous on the finished product would cause the item to be second or
can be rejected.
Minor defect:
A defect that would not cause the produce to be termed a second either because of
severity or location
33 | P a g e
Importances of Storeroom
Helps to smoothly run the industry.
Helps to ensure Quality of the product
Helps to ensure in time delivery.
Helps to increase the productivity of the industry.
Helps to make the industry profitable.
Helps to make the customer satisfied.
Helps to increase the market share.
Helps to improve sustainability of the industry.
Store officer
Store Assistant
Worker / Labor
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Record keeping
36 | P a g e
37 | P a g e
Inventory
Prepare a receiving
report with reported
status
In found ok
Prepare a receiving
report with ok status
38 | P a g e
If not
Scissor
Trolley
Fabric Inspection machine
Different type of form
Note Book
Different types of record card
Table for inspection
Different types of Carrier
Inventory: When a factory makes an incoming inventory they apply two kind of inventory. These are
single inventory and join inventory.
Single inventory is completed only by the one or more factory people. There is no personnel is applied
from the supplier.
Another Process is applied which is known as joint inventory. In this process, both personnel are
applied like factory people and also from the suppliers.
Inspection: To complete this system 4 point system is applied for the inspection of the materials.
Moreover 10 point system is also applied for the inspection. The result of the inspection is found out in
accordance with the percentage.
Testing: All most all the materials are tested in store room. Among them GSM test, Button Pulling test,
Shade variation test, Shade sorting and many more testing is done in store room.
Shade Grouping: One of the most important activities of store room is shade grouping. It is done by
collecting the samples from the roll and checked with light box.
Issue and Delivery: Fabric and other material are issued and delivery properly in accordance with the
requisition form.
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RECEIVE NO ..
BUYER NAEM ..
RECEIVING DATE
CARRIER ..
INVOICE NO ..
P/I
NO
RCV NO.
REPORTED BY
40 | P a g e
COLOUR
REQD QTY
COMMERCIAL
INVOICE QTY
STORE IN CHARGE
ACTUAL
QTY RCVD
SHORTAGE
/ SURPLUS
ROLL
STORE MANAGER
Style
Sample
Type
REPORTED BY
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Fabrics
Type
Reference
GSM
Composition
Solid/AOP/
YD
STORE IN CHARGE
Color
Qty.
KG
Booking
Date
Required
Date
STORE MANAGER
REPORTED BY
42 | P a g e
Buyer Name
Order No.
Item Name
STORE IN CHARGE
Stock Qty
Date of Issue
STORE MANAGER
Attn .
Supplier ..
Ordered By ...
Date ..
Com Rate
Name of Item
Prepared By
43 | P a g e
Garments Qty
Order Qty
Checked By
Unit Price
Present Stock
Order No.
Approved By
Cutting department
The cutting department for each of the sewing floors is equipped with fabric inspection, 6 to 8 cutting
tables, straight knife, band knife and stripe fabric pilling or lace pilling setups. The capacities of each
cutting departments are carefully matched with the respective sewing capacities, between 45,000 to
100,000 pieces each
day. All cut pieces are
hacked
and
are
prepared into bundles
of 12 to 24 pieces. The
bundle baskets are
sent to the sewing
section. Before cutting
100% of the fabrics
are inspected and laid
for sufficient time on
cutting
tables
for
relaxation.
Quality Inspection
After dyeing the fabric is required to be relaxed for a certain time. When the fabric is checked
by the quality inspector, it is stored in the store for relaxation. During the relaxation period,
fabric comes in its normal condition after dyeing. Relaxation is important for avoiding the
shrinkage after cutting. Usually the relaxation time is 8 hours. But for lycra fabrics the
relaxation time can be 10 or 20 hours. No chemical is used here. Only air is passed through the
room. The GSM is also measured here. The allowable tolerance of GSM is about +/- 5 for the
fabric relaxation. There are 7 racks of various sizes to store the fabric.
3. Laying:
The garments production is mass production. We cant cut the fabric piece by piece. We cut
the fabrics for thousands of pieces for sewing. So we need to arrange the fabric. It is called
laying. It means to place the fabric one over another. Auto spreader and traditional method
are used for laying. Mainly Tubular fabrics are laid manually.
Total 5 groups formed for laying fabrics. 1 group is assigned for manual spreading of tubular
fabric. Another two are set with the automatic spreader machine. And another two groups are
busy to lay the yarn dyed fabric. Each of the groups contains 5 workers including the cutting
man.
The lay height should be maintained according to the rule. But due to the pressure of
production, it is not always possible to maintain the lay no and height. Some Important
Guideline for Laying:
1. Lay height must be below 2.5 inch while fabric is Lycra or Rib.
2. Lay height must be below 3.5 inch while fabric is Single Jersey, Interlock or others.
3. If the GSM of any fabric is high, then the number of fabric in laying fabric height will be
low.
The main function of the spreader is as follows:
1. To make exactly flat position of all fabrics.
2. To unfold the fabrics if any fabric is in folding condition.
3. To ensure the alignment of the laying fabric.
46 | P a g e
Manual Cutting
5. Scissor cutting:
Scissor cutting is the process of fabric cutting using scissor. Normally cutting machines are
used for bulk cutting. But when little no of pieces are required; then fabric is cut manually with
47 | P a g e
Most concentration is required to cut the yarn dyed fabric. Matching of stripes is very much
important for cutting. Two spikes are used to match the stripes of fabric. Otherwise the whole
fabric will become waste.
The spreading and cutting is done manually. Two groups of 10 people are assigned for this
task. Fabric length is fixed according to the pattern. No marker is produced for this cutting. The
marking is also done manually. First, the pattern is placed on the laying fabric and then it is in
lined with white color. Then normal cutting process is continued. Here the wastage of the
fabric cant be controlled by CAD.
7. Bundling:
It is very much important for matching parts of a same piece. The process of matching parts is
controlled by putting stickers on various parts. Suppose, 50 lays are placed and the fabric is
cut. Now, the marker contains 2 L size. Each size has 1 front part and 1 back part. Now the
48 | P a g e
Fabric characteristics that affect utilization include differences in face and back, lengthwise
directionality, crosswise symmetry, need for matching the fabric design, length of design
repeat, and fabric width. These fabric characteristics frequently limit the arrangement of
pattern pieces. Matching fabric designs requires special marker preparation and extra piece
goods. Stripe or plaid lines must be indicated on pattern pieces and markers for accurate
alignment and matching to corresponding pieces. The greater the length between repeats
increases the potential for fabric waste.
(ii) CHARACTERISTICS OF PATTERN PIECES
Characteristics of pattern pieces may limit fabric utilization. Generally the fabric utilization percentage
increases when a variety of garment sizes are used in the same marker and when the marker contains both
large and small pieces. Smaller pieces can often be nested with larger pieces. The shape of the pattern pieces
determine hoe close they can be fit together (interlock). Irregular shaped pieces are difficult to fit together
with other pieces. Large pattern pieces are less flexible and often dictate the placement of other pieces.
Patterns are sometimes modified to increase fabric utilization although modification may not always be
feasible. Some pattern adjustments that may be used to improve fabric utilization by marker efficiency are:
-Splitting pattern pieces and creating a seam
-Rounding or slanting corners
-Reducing seam allowances and/or hem width
52 | P a g e
gm
72000*100
=
200*2
= 90%
So, Marker Efficiency is 90%
53 | P a g e
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59 | P a g e
Machine name
No of machines
12
2.
07
3.
06
4.
02
5.
01
6.
05
SL no.
1.
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05
8.
06
9.
07
10.
06
11.
05
12.
Fagoting machine
04
13.
04
Table
Total
78
Sample type
Initial sample
Gold seal sample
Redcats
Pre-production sample
Photo sample
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Sample type
Fit sample
PPA sample
MAIDEN FORM
Mock up sample
FOP sample
Buyer
Pierre Cardin
John Lewis
Hunk emoller
Matalan
Debenhams
Buyer
Sample type
Design/Fit/Quotation sample
Size set sample
Gold seal/Pre production sample
Sample type
Color proto sample
Design sample
Size set sample
CELIO
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Sample type
Fit sample
Hanes
Buyer
Sample type
Fit sample
Counter sample
Size set sample
LINDEX
Photo sample
Press sample
Production sample
Buyer
Sample type
Style sample
Counter sample
Counter wash sample
KAPPAHL
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Sample type
Fit Sample
Size set sample
Red tag sample
Ad sample
Imaging sample
Target
Dot com sample
Yellow seal sample
Pre-production sample
Production sample
MTL test sample
Buyer
Sample type
Prototype sample
White seal sample
DBA
Buyer
Sample type
Development sample
H&M
Quotation sample
Photo sample
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Sample Approval
While fabric and trim ordering is happening, simultaneously the sample approval procedure is
also underway. The moment a style is selected it goes to the tech department for fitting. Here
models wear the samples and they are evaluated in terms of fit, construction, measurement.
The buyer then sends out comments, which are called as fit comments. In case another sample
is requested the factory makes the same incorporating the comments and send again to buyer.
This process is called fit cycle.
It is very important to have all approvals on time to be able to ship the order on time.
Merchandiser should pay special emphasis on the following up on the approvals. Any delayed
approval can hamper the entire production schedule of the style, resulting in delayed
shipments.
In order to get the approval on time, the merchandiser has to insure that the item to be
approved is ready on time and the approving authority is also available at that time. Hence the
merchandiser has to do a co-ordination function to get everything together so that the
approval is faster. The moment a style is selected it goes to the tech department for fitting.
Here models wear the samples and they are evaluated in terms of fit, construction,
measurement. Sample room in-charge is responsible for attending PP meeting with approved
sample and the tech pack. Same time Apex management is holding weekly and monthly
performance meeting to review the department progress.
For example:
As detailed earlier, fitting happens on a live model and hence happens either once or twice a
week only. Let us take a situation where the fitting session happens on every Thursday of the
week in New York.
In such a situation a merchandiser of a factory in South East Asia should ensure that the
sample is dispatched latest by Saturday so that the sample reaches the buyer by Tuesday or
Wednesday and is then fitted on Thursday.
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Pilot run:
Once pre-production meeting is done the factory does PILOT RUN. Factory cuts 100-200
garments based on the order quantity. The pilot run is done on the assembly line and is aimed
at ensuring that the operators of the assemble line understand the required quality levels. This
is very essential since all samples prior to the pilot run (fit samples, PP & size set) are made in
the sampling unit. Once PILOT RUN is approved the factory goes into bulk production. In line
and interim inspections are preformed during the production process to ensure that the final
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Sewing machinery
Description
Quantity
203
83
49
65
10
116
35
53
104
23
Fagoting machine
Embroidery Machine
TOTAL
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749
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SL
NO
PROCESS NAME
MACHINE
TYPE
SMV
O/L-4TH
0.22
O/L-4TH
0.10
S/N LS
0.14
O/L-4TH
0.10
O/L-4TH
0.18
S/N LS
0.08
S/N LS
0.14
S/N LS
0.16
B/H
0.12
S/N LS
0.18
10
S/N LS
0.16
11
O/L-4TH
0.42
12
CROTCH JOIN
O/L-4TH
0.22
13
B/T
0.10
14
O/L-3TH
0.42
15
S/N LS
0.12
16
F/L F SET
0.40
17
LEG ROLLING
F/L HEM
0.38
18
B/A
0.18
Grand Total
3.82
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2
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4
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Root Cause
1. Sewing machine has
been run at a low
speed for an extended
period of time.
2. To prevent
overheating, motor
power is automatically
Corrective Action
Turn power off and wait about 20
minutes. Safety device will reset, and
machine will be ready to operate.
Upper thread
breaks.
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turned off.
1. Upper thread has
run out.
2. Presser foot is up.
3. Bobbin winder shaft
was left in winding
position.
4. Buttonhole lever
was not lowered when
machine was placed in
buttonhole mode.
1. Presser foot is not
correct one, and
needle hits presser
foot.
2. Needle has come
out and is in hook of
machine.
1. Threading is not
correct.
2. Thread has a knot in
it.
3. Thread tension is
too tight.
4. Needle is bent or
blunt or has a sharp
eye.
5. Needle is wrong
size.
6. Needle has been
inserted wrong.
7. Needle and thread
does not match.
8. Starting to stitch too
fast.
9. Thread take-up lever
has not been
threaded.
Skipped stitches.
Irregular stitches.
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Fabric puckers.
Bunching of thread.
Needle breaks.
1. Loud noise is
heard.
2. Knocking noise,
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7. Unevenly wound
bobbin.
1. Stitch length is too
long for material.
2. Needle point is
blunt.
3. Incorrect thread
tension.
4. Light pressure on
presser foot.
5. Fabric is too sheer
or soft.
6. Using two different
sizes or kinds of
thread.
1. Upper and lower
threads not drawn
back under presser
foot.
2. Feed dog down.
1. A thin needle was
used for sewing a
heavy weight material.
2. Needle has not been
fully inserted into
needle bar.
3. Needle clamp screw
is loose.
4. Presser foot is not
correct one.
5. Presser foot is loose.
6. Pulling on fabric as
you sew.
1. Dust has
accumulated in feed
dogs.
1. Clean machine.
2. Clean machine.
3. Disassemble machine and clean
2. Lint is in hook.
3. Thread caught in
shuttle.
1. The needle is not in
highest position.
2. The needle threader
is designed not to turn
to protect itself if the
needle is not up.
shuttle.
1. Turn hand wheel until needle
reaches its highest position.
2. Properly insert needle.
Ironing:
The garment is spread out clearly on the iron table as though no folding can occur there. After
spreading, vacuum is given by feet to stay with the table. Then front part of the garments and
sleeve is ironed with optimum temperature. If iron machine is kept on the garments long time,
then garments may burn out or shade may change. Some garments expand when ironed. As a
result the garments may reject. To control expand or plus, the pattern mark is given on the
iron table and carefully ironed within the control limit
For example, lycra fabrics expands when ironed.
During ironing of dark color such as navy blue, black etc we should be very careful about the
shiny mark. If we iron without the iron shoe there will be shiny mark on the fabric. So iron
shoe is must in this case.
Types: There are two types of iron table:
1. Vacuum iron table
2. Without vacuum iron table
Way of pressing:
Normally pressing or ironing does with the combination of heat, pressure and moisture.
The application of temperature, moisture and pressure depends on the ironing or pressing
machine. The pressing does with manually and with machine. The manual ironing does not
able to give uniform pressure. But it is possible with machine to give uniform pressure
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Iron
Steam press
Steam air finish
Steam tunnel
Stand up
Semi stand up
Flat pack
Hanger pack
After folding the garment it take into the Polly bag. There are different types of Polly bag
which depend s on buyer requirement.
PE poly
SAP poly
PP poly
LDP poly
Then the garment takes into the cartoon. And the cartoon size and shape also depends on
buyer requirement.
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Let the required carton size is 602939 cm. and 1010 cartons are required to ship all the
garments. So the CVM will be:
60 29 39
1010
1000000
68.53 = 69
So the CVM is 69. The standard cargo size is 25, 28 and 33 CVM. So we have to order three
cargo of 25 CVM sized. Because, another options are not feasible.
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Reduce costs.
Utilize natural resources as efficiently as possible.
Preserve items quality level by a more efficient packing system.
Simplify the handling especially for all distribution centers and shop assistants.
Improve ergonomics for the staff.
Reduce the use of plastic bags, extra filling paper, silica gel and tissue paper.
Minimize waste and maximize recycling.
Implementation
In order to achieve these objectives Packing responsible persons have been appointed at all
H&M Production Office. The packing responsible person and supplier must come to an
agreement on how to pack in the best way. A packing sheet will be filled out on order basis
and belongs to the order file (Not yet valid for Cosmetic Suppliers or suppliers working directly
with the Buying office).
Environmental requirements for all packaging materials
H&M is committed to minimizing the use of materials at source. This means that only the
minimum Amount of packaging material required to protect the item and its display packaging
should be used. This is also why it is not allowed to use needles, glue, pins or staples when
folding and packing individual Items. Tissue paper should be avoided in garment folds and on
hangers as well as interleaving paper and plastic clips. It may only be used when instructed by
the H&M technician or buyer. The total level of lead, cadmium, mercury and hexavalent
chromium present in packaging must not Exceed 100 ppm.
Exceptions to the environmental requirements
The only exception is retail packaging for mens classical white shirts where pins and metal
clips are allowed.
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Standard carton size should always be used as first choice. The carton sizes given are outer
measurements. The cartons may be smaller or lower in height if necessary, depending on
volume or difference in garments size range.
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There are three stage of inspection of garments production unit. They are:
1. Raw material inspection: for example: sewing thread, elastic, hook & eye, fabric etc.
2. In process inspection: marker making, fabric spreading, fabric cutting, fabric sewing,
finishing etc.
3. Final inspection: such as fitting, standard body measurement, acceptable tolerance etc.
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Points
51=5
42=8
2 defects between 6 to 9
23=6
14=4
24=8
31
width
31 100 36"
130 1
50
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In-Line Inspection
Assort Table Inspection
Pre-Final Inspection
Final /In-house Inspection
Accessories Inspection:
The main purpose of this inspection is to assure the quality of received Accessories before
supplying in Sewing / Packing section. To do the inspection randomly we select 10%
accessories. Now we are doing the following accessories :Sewing Accessories
Label
Bow
Elastic
Ribbon
Trim lace
Ring & Slider
Buckle
Jelly Pad
Air Pad
Hook & Eye
Packing Accessories
Price ticket
Hang tag
Declaration Sticker
Carton
Poly Bag
Poly sticker / Sizer.
Procedure:
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In-line Inspection: When we start poly in packing section we do in-line inspection. The main
purpose of this inspection to check & confirm the folding method, hangering (If Need) ,Price
ticket placement, Hang tag placement, poly etc. this stage we are using below format.
In-line Inspection Report (Finishing)
Assortment Check: When we start assortment we do random assortment check. The main
purpose of this inspection is to check & confirm the assortment. In this Stage we also check
Shipping mark of Carton & item qty in a carton. To do this job we maintain the below format.
Final / In-house Inspection: After finish packing we do final Inspection in packing section. In
this stage we maintain MTL STD 105E, Single sampling plan, Normal inspection level-II with
AQL of 2.5.
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Qualifications of a Merchandiser
There are some basic qualifications which should have a merchandiser Good knowledge about fiber, yarn, fabric, dyeing, printing, finishing, dyes, colorfastness
and garments production etc.
Good knowledge about usual raw materials and apparel inspection system.
Clear conception of the usual potential quality problem in apparel merchandising.
Good command in English and adequate knowledge of technical terms for accurate and
efficient communication.
Knowledge of the buyers compliance and various standards.
Knowledge of the quota system, free-trade, shipping and banking documentations.
Responsibility of a Merchandiser
When an export order is placed to a merchandiser, he has to schedule the following main
functions Procurement of Export Orders.
Execution of Export orders.
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Email/fax
Get Sketch
Confirmation price
Master LC open
Shipment
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Sources of vendors
The potential sources of survey for vendors are:
-
Trade directories
Regional directories issued by the chamber of commerce
Classified sections of telephone directories
Visit of representatives of various vendors
Exhibitions and trade fairs
Identification of vendors Some of the issues for consideration at this stage are:
-
Whether the vendors be selected each time of inviting offers or once a year?
How many vendors to be selected?
Who would decide on the selection of the vendors?
Whether to purchase from local/foreign vendor?
Whether to purchase from manufacturer or trade organization?
Whether to purchase form agents?
Whether to appoint regional agents?
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Vendor number
Vendor name
Vendor address
Telephone numbers, fax, telex, e-mail details
Currency code
Payment terms (Advance, L/C, Telex-transfer, and Credit basis)
A vendor list can be different for different purposes. For example, a vendor list can be in
alphabetical order. A vendor list can be classified according to category of items. A vendor list
can be separate for local and foreign vendors. There can be separate vendor list of vendors of
each country.
A vendor list(s), therefore should be prepared keeping in view the requirements of each
organization. It is preferable to register a vendor formally to create his interest in buyers
purchases. Vendors, listed in the Vendor List are considered as qualified vendors for further
dealings. The purpose of maintaining a list of qualified vendors is to enable the company to:
- Have an approved group of bidders for solicitation purpose,
- Increase competition during the bid process, and
- Enable the company to anticipate satisfactory performance from all potential vendors
In case of dealing with a new vendor, it is better to verify the information given by him from
the references provided by him or from his bank. It is quite possible that the vendor under
consideration might have failed in the past to perform satisfactorily and might have been
blacklisted by some other customer for further dealings. It is very important to know the
reasons of blacklisting the vendor by his other client, before making a decision for selection or
rejection of the vendor.
List of vendor Operation The vendor list should be operated very judiciously. Enquiries should not be sent to some
selected vendors only. All the vendors empanelling should get an equal opportunity to
participate in the bids. Normally, inquiries are sent to three or four vendors. Sending enquiries
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Vendor Blacklisting If a vendor, in spite of repeated advises, has failed to give quality products or to adhere to
agreed delivery schedule or has not given proper after sales services, he should be debarred
from future dealings. However, before debarring the vendor, the matter should be examined
thoroughly and impartially so that he is not penalized unnecessarily and it should be
established that the vendor has defaulted. Decisions for debarring a vendor should be taken at
the higher management level. A written communication should be sent to the vendor for
blacklisting him. All concerned departments and officials in the organization should also be
informed about the decision of black listing of the vendor.
Vendor list Updating Vendor list should not be seized for a long period and needs to be reviewed at regular
intervals, say after a year. In some cases, there may not be any business with some vendors for
a number of years. On the other hand, some vendors may be receiving orders regularly.
Weight age should be given to active vendors. Passive vendors should be deleted from the
approved list after proper evaluation.
Any change in the vendor list, whether addition or deletion of a vendor, should be done with
the approval of the management. in case any new vendor is to be tried without waiting for
formal approval of his empanelling, approval should be taken on a case-to-case basis.
Selecting of vendors It is improper to search for a vendor each time before sending an enquiry. The process to
search vendors just before sending an enquiry is very time consuming and the exercise may
miss the right vendor. A list of vendors should be readily available from where the vendors
should be picked up for inviting offers. Since there are large no of vendors for each category of
item, it is impossible to deal with all of them every time. A vendor, who is good for one
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Purchasing from local / foreign vendors The issue whether to purchase from a local vendor or a foreign vendor is to be examined in
detail before making a choice for the vendor. The various aspects to be considered are
- How reliable is the quality of the material of the local vendor as compared to the quality
of the material from the foreign vendor?
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What is the difference in price of the local vendor and the foreign vendor?
How much is the difference in the lead-time?
The efforts required in resolving the issues with a foreign vendor?
How is the after sales service of the foreign supplier?
In some situations, it is unavoidable to buy materials from other than the foreign vendor. The
decision in favor or against any depends largely on the quality of the product offered,
technological factors and overall economy. In most of the cases, preference is given in
purchasing from the local vendor due to various advantages listed below -
Easy to handle
Easy communication
Quick response
Local sources are better know that foreign sources
Product quality from local sources can be easily checked prior to purchasing
Short delivery schedule, enabling to maintain low inventory levels
Low transportation cost
Better after sales services
Customs clearance is not involved, thus saving on effort, cost and time
Purchasing from local vendor normally works out economical on the whole
Trial order on a new vendor Special care should be taken in case of procurement of an important item or raw material.
Initial purchase from a new vendor, and especially in case of a foreign vendor, should be on
trial basis or after satisfying that the vendor is technically competent and financially sound. At
least two feedbacks on their performance with similar organizations should be considered
before dealing with such vendors.
Performance evaluation of vendors can be used for the following - To Choose vendors, to whom inquiry is to be sent
- To eliminate vendors whose performance is not up to an acceptable level
- To divide total order quantity to number of vendors, according to their performance
evaluation.
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Price
Quality
Delivery
Service
Vendor Development
There are often situation wherein vendors are not available for certain requirements. In order
to overcome such situations organizations should look at frequently developing vendors. This
vendor development is an important function and should be paid adequate attention.
Need for developing vendors The need for developing the vendors may be for various reasons. Some of which are - An item for which requirement has come up very recently and the item was no made
previously,
- Unusual requirements in the specifications to introduce unique features in the product,
- To try new and unusual materials,
- An item is available only from foreign sources and the lead time and the cost of the
item is exorbitant,
- Existing sources have fully occupied production capacity and are unable to supply the
item,
The above situations force organizations to develop new vendors. In recent years, during war
between certain countries in mountain areas covered with snow, the soldiers had to fight in
extreme cold conditions. They needed special shoes and uniforms to withstand the tough
weather conditions. Though some of the items required were available in other countries, the
items were not available in adequate quantities. This led the government to think on
developing the vendors within their own country so that vital defense requirements could be
met with. This is one of the examples of a compelling situation to develop a vendor.
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Supplier
Manufacturer
Distributor
Retailer
Customer
Supply chain functions/activities can be grouped into strategic, tactical, and operational levels.
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OBSERVATION
Merchandising Section
Follow up the total procedure is important for Merchandiser.
The merchandiser plays a vital role in strategic planning along with marketing, sales, production, finance
and administration.
Merchandiser must ensure timely line development in accordance with buyer needs and the companys
capacity and capability.
The merchandiser must integrate company functions within the total supply chain, which is very complex
in connection with global sourcing of both raw materials and finished products.
In large companies, the merchandiser coordinates intercompany activities with other departments.
There are some tools which are the helping agents for proper planning and controlling. Marketing calendar is a
base of company planning. It establishes the line preview date, which is the date when management will
review proposed style with sales; the line release date, which is when the line will be available for sale or
retailers; the sales plan and the shipping plan. The merchandising calendar is the primary control tool in an
apparel company. It establishes responsibilities and deadlines for all key events for a session. The line planning
focuses on the efforts of design team in one cohesive direction. It establishes the number of fabrics, styles,
constructions, and stock keeping units in a line by production. The self stoke plan is made up of the styles and
quantities by color and size that should be in weekly basis. For modern merchandisers computer is a must. For
developing the plan, tracking progress in various departments, task scheduling software has greatly aided the
merchandiser in accomplishing the complex responsibilities of planning and control.
Sourcing of Materials
The term sourcing implies the processes involved in procurement of the desired merchandise at the best
bargain from the most suitable source, with the objective of optimizing the cost, efforts and time. Sourcing
can also be defined as the process of identifying, conducting negotiations with, and forming supply
agreements with vendors of goods and services.
The elements of sourcing are spread across the various stages of the product development process, such as
the Final Product Development stage and the Manufacturing Package stage. The sourcing process has been
depicted through the process flow diagrams on the following pages.
Determining how and where to manufacture apparel products has become a major concern for most
companies. A good sourcing executive must have a working knowledge of manufacturing processes, quality
assurance producer, garment costing, product development, government quota and import legislation,
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Sourcing Options A. Producers (Mills, factories, etc... Large producers will usually sell though through regional sales offices)
B. Distributors (Middlemen / Agent)
C. Converters (purchase fabrics from these mills and then print or dye the fabric [convert] before selling it)
The activity involves ordering of fabric and its important points to be taken care of during this activity are:
-
Accurate computation of the requirement. This is essential to ensure that during bulk production the
materials do not fall short nor are they in access and there are leftovers after the order is shipped. An
accurate calculation of material requirement can be done if the BOM (bill of materials) as provided by
the buyer in the specification sheet is studied thoroughly. Apart from just ensuring that the quantity is
correct the BOM also helps in checking that all materials required in completion of the order are
ordered and nothing has been missed out.
Selecting the best vendor for the materials in terms of quality, price and deliver
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FC (fabric commitment) fabric commitment is a legal document confirming that the buyer will be buying the
said quantity of a particular fabric. A garment style no need not be mentioned on this document as it is a
commitment only for buying fabric. This kind of a legal document is used by the buyer when there are very
probable chances of change in the style or the same fabric is being used in a number of styles and the buyer
has still not decided on the quantity to be purchased in each of the styles. Hence in such a situation the buyer
gives a block booking for fabric.
Once the order is received four different activities are started off simultaneously. These activities are
preparing a detailed T&A, Fabric Ordering, Trim Ordering, fit cycle and sample approvals.
Preparation of a detailed time and action (T&A) calendar is very essential in production merchandising. The
reason being, large no of activities have to be followed up for each order and a merchandised may be handling
large number of such orders and hence it is essential that all activities are listed. This minimizes the risk of
missing out any of the activities. Hence while preparing a T&A one should list down as many activities as one
can think of which are essential in smooth running of the order. A detailed discussion on T&A is done later in
this module.
This T&A is prepared by the merchandiser in consultation with all the concerned departments such as
sourcing (fabrics & accessories), production, and quality assurance, logistics. Once the T&A is finalized the
same should be circulated to all concerned departments. Another important aspect of the T&A is fixing the
responsibility. Along with finalizing the date by which a particular activity has to be completed, the
merchandiser should also mention the name of person who is responsible to complete the activity by that
time. For proper maintenance merchandisers maintain a Time & Action calendar. An example of Time &
Action Calendar is shown in the next page.
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