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PatentWO2007047299A1ClassificationoffabricsbynearinfraredspectroscopyGooglePatents
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Classificationoffabricsbynearinfrared
spectroscopy
WO2007047299A1
ABSTRACT
Amethodforclassifyingtextilesamplesandunknownfabricsintoknown
categoriesusingspectroscopy,chemometricmodeling,andsoftindependent
modelingofclassanalogies('SIMCA').Themethodinvolvescollectingspectral
data,preferablydiffusenearinfraredreflectancedata,foralibraryofknownfabric
samples,creatingadatabaseofprincipalcomponentanalysesforeachtypeof
fabric,andusingSIMCAtoclassifyanunknownfabricsampleaccordingtothe
database.

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Publicationnumber
Publicationtype
Applicationnumber
Publicationdate
Filingdate
Prioritydate

WO2007047299A1
Application
PCT/US2006/039702
Apr26,2007
Oct11,2006
Oct13,2005

Alsopublishedas

US8190551,US20100036795

Inventors

KennethWBusch,ChristopherBDavis,
MariannaBusch

Applicant

UnivBaylor,KennethWBusch,Christopher
BDavis,MariannaBusch

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PatentCitations(3),NonPatentCitations(2),Referencedby(2),
Classifications(6),LegalEvents(4)
ExternalLinks:Patentscope,Espacenet

DESCRIPTION(OCRtextmaycontainerrors)

CLAIMS(OCRtextmaycontainerrors)

CLASSIFICATIONOFFABRICSBYNEARINFRAREDSPECTROSCOPY
WHATISCLAIMEDIS:
BACKGROUND
1.Amethodforclassifyingunknownfabricsamples,comprising:collecting
[0001]ThisapplicationclaimsprioritytoU.S.ProvisionalPatentApplication,

spectraldataofanunknownfabricsampletogiveunknownspectraldata

SerialNumber60/726,452,entitled"CLASSIFICATIONOFFABRICSBY

andusingaknownstandardrepresentingknownfabrictypesandsoft

NEARINFRAREDSPECTROSCOPY"filedonOctober13,2005,havingK.

independentmodelingofclassanalogy("SIMCA")toclassifytheunknown

Busch,C.Davis,andM.Busch,listedastheinventor(s).

fabricsampleintoeitheroneormoreoftheknownfabrictypesoratypeof

[0002]Thisinventionpertainstothedeterminationoftextilecompositionthrough
theuseofspectroscopyandchemometricmodeling.
[0003]Theidentificationoftextilesisaconcernaroundtheworld.Textile
manufactures,retailmarketers,andcustomsofficialswouldallappreciateand

unknownorigin.
2.Themethodofclaim1,whereintheknownstandardrepresentingknown
fabrictypesisadatabaseofmodelprincipalcomponentanalysesforeach
knownfabrictype.

utilizeanew,fast,nondestructivemethodoffabricidentification.For

3.Themethodofclaim2,whereinthedatabaseofmodelprincipal

manufacturesandmarketers,thismethodwouldassurethatthegarmentsthat

componentanalysesforeachknownfabrictypeispreparedby:collecting

arebeingmadeandsoldarenotmadeofsubstandardmaterialsorbeingsoldat

spectraldataofapluralityoffabricsamples,whereinthefabricsamplesare

overinflatedprices.Traditionally,analyticalmethodsfordeterminingfibercontent

ofknownfabrictypesandperformingaprincipalcomponentanalysisanda

includesimplevisualinspectionwiththenakedeye,burntesting,microscopy,

regressionofthespectraldataforeachofthefabricsamplesofeachknown

andsolubilitytesting.Thesemethods,thoughproventobeeffective,havesome

fabrictypetocreateadatabaseofmodelprincipalcomponentanalysesfor

drawbacks.Visualinspection,forinstance,requirestheexaminertohavea

eachknownfabrictype.

workingknowledgeofthetextileshewillbeanalyzing.Also,thefeeland
appearanceofsomefiberscanbeextremelysimilartoanother.Microscopy

4.Themethodofclaim1,whereinthespectraldataisdiffusenearinfrared

sharesthesamedrawbackasvisualinspection.Certainmanufacturing

reflectionspectraldata.

processescanchangetheappearanceofafiber.Fibersviewedunderthe
microscope,especiallymanufacturedfibers,oftenhavesimilarcharacteristics
makingapositiveidentificationimpossible.Burnandsolubilitytestingcan
identifytheclassoffibers,butthetechniqueisdestructiveandproduceswaste.
(Kadolphetal.,2002).
SUMMARY

5.Themethodofclaim1,whereintheknownfabrictypescompriseoneor
moreofacetate,acrylic,blends,cotton,linen,mohair,nylon,olefin,
polyester,PVC,rayon,silk,andwool.
6.Amethodforclassifyingunknownfabricsamples,comprising:collecting
spectraldataofapluralityoffabricsamples,whereinthefabricsamplesare
ofknownfabrictypesperformingaprincipalcomponentanalysisanda

[0004]Inoneaspect,thecurrentmethodforclassifyingfabricsinvolves

regressionofthespectraldataforeachofthefabricsamplesofeachknown

assemblingalibraryoffabricsamples,creatingadatabaseofdiffusenear

fabrictypetocreateadatabaseofmodelprincipalcomponentanalysesfor

infraredreflectionspectraofthosefabricsamples,andusingchemometric

eachknownfabrictypecollectingspectraldataofanunknownfabric

techniquestoclassifythefabricsonthebasisoftheirspectra.

sampletogiveunknownspectraldataandusingthedatabaseofmodel
principalcomponentanalysesandsoftindependentmodelingofclass

[0005]AchemometrictechniqueknownasSoftIndependentModelingofClass

analogy("SIMCA")toclassifytheunknownfabricsampleintoeitheroneor

Analogy("SIMCA")classificationisusedinconjunctionwiththedatabaseof

moreoftheknownfabrictypesoratypeofunknownorigin.

spectraldatafromthefabricsamplestosortunknownfabricsamplesintotheir
appropriatefibertype.Nochemicalorotherpretreatmentisnecessary.The

7.Themethodofclaim6,whereinthespectraldataisdiffusenearinfrared

methodworksregardlessofthefabriccolororpattern,orthepresenceor

reflectionspectraldata.

absenceoffabricfinishes.Themethodhastheadvantageofbeingnon
destructiveandtheoperatordoesnothavetohaveabackgroundintextilesin
ordertoidentifythepieceoffabric.Moreover,theinstrumentwillfitonatabletop
anddoesnotrequirespecializedlaboratoryfacilitiestooperate.

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8.Themethodofclaim6,whereintheknownfabrictypescompriseoneor
moreofacetate,acrylic,blends,cotton,linen,mohair,nylon,olefin,
polyester,PVC,rayon,silk,andwool.

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[0006]Multivariateregressioniswidelyknowninmanyareasofchemistryand
canserveasaparticularlypowerfulcomputationaltoolforcorrelatingspectral
datawithknowncompositionalchangesinatestsetofsamples.Thebasicobjectiveofthemethodistodevelopa
mathematicalmodelthatrelatestwosetsofvariablestoeachothersothattheindependentorXvariablescanbeusedto
determinethedependentorYvariable.
[0007]Toavoidproblemswithcolinearityinthedata,allmultivariateregressiontechniquesrequireanorthogonalbasissetor
coordinatesystemonwhichtorepresentthedata.Toachievethiscondition,modernregressiontechniquesemploy
projectionmethodstoobtainaseriesofvariancescaledeigenvectorsthatcanserveasanewcoordinatesystemforthe
data.Thisformofdatadecompositionassuresanorthogonalcoordinatesystemforthedata.Atthesametime,itprovidesa
waytoreducethedimensionalityofthedatabecauseonlythemajoreigenvectorsareneededtorepresentthedata.Finally,
whenthedataarerepresentedonthenewcoordinatesystem,newinsightisoftengainedasnewrelationshipsthatwere
formerlyobscuredintheoldcoordinatesystemarerevealed.
[0008]Broadly,oneaspectofthepresentinventioninvolvesamethodforclassifyingfabrics,comprisingthestepsof:[0009]
(1)Collectingspectraldataofapluralityoffabricsamples,whereinthefabricsamplesareofdifferentknownfabrictypes
[0010](2)Performingaprincipalcomponentanalysisandregressionofthespectraldataforeachofthefabricsamplesof
eachknownfabrictypetocreateadatabaseofmodelprincipalcomponentanalysesforeachknownfabrictype
[0011](3)Collectingspectraldataofanunknownfabricsampletogiveunknownspectraldataand
[0012](4)Usingthedatabaseofmodelprincipalcomponentanalysesandsoftindependentmodelingofclassanalogy
("SIMCA")toclassifytheunknownfabricsampleintoeitheroneormoreofthedifferentknownfabrictypesoratypeof
unknownorigin.
[0013]Inthecurrentinvention,thepreferredspectraldataisdiffusenearinfraredreflection("NIR")spectraldata.The
methodisquitegeneralandcanapplytoadiversityoffabrictypes,includingacetate,acrylic,blends,cotton,linen,mohair,
nylon,olefin,polyester,PVC,rayon,silk,andwool.
[0014]Thismethodisusefulfortherapididentificationofunknownfabricsamples.Itisnondestructiveanddoesnotrequire
hazardouschemicalsandsolvents.Anyentitiesinneedofthistechnology,suchascustomsofficials,couldpurchasea
standardizednearinfraredspectrometer,thespectraldatabase,andthesoftwareforperformingtheclassification.Because
spectraldatabasesareinstrumentspecific,theycannotbetransferredtootherinstruments.Subscriberscouldreceive
periodicdatabaseupdatesasmoresamplesareaddedtothelibrary.Althoughthereisnominimumormaximumnumberof
samplestobeincludedinthelibrary,itshouldbeofsufficientlyhighanumberofsamplestocreateaccuratemodelsfor
prediction.
BRIEFDESCRIPTIONOFFIGURES
[0015]Figure1showstheNIRspectra,(log1/R)versuswavelength,ofacetatesamples
[0016]Figure2showstheNIRspectra,(log1/R)versuswavelength,ofcottonsamples
[0017]Figure3showstheNIRspectra,(log1/R)versuswavelength,ofpolyestersamples
[0018]Figure4showstheNIRspectra,(log1/R)versuswavelength,ofwoolsamples
[0019]Figure5showstheNIRspectra,(log1/R)versuswavelength,ofallsamplesinthefabricdatabase
[0020]Figure6showstheprincipalcomponentanalysisforthecottonsamples:(A)Scoresplot(B)Regressioncoefficients
plot(C)Residualsplotand(D)Residualvarianceplotand
[0021]Figure7showsthespectraofrepresentativepolyesterandsilksamples,aswellasasamplefalselyidentifiedas
beingsilk.
DETAILEDDESCRIPTIONOFPREFERREDEMBODIMENTS
[0022]Thepresentinventionrelatestotheclassificationoftextilesusingspectroscopyandchemometricmodeling.In
particular,thepresentinventioninvolvesthedevelopmentofaspectraldatabaseoffabricsamplesandtheuseof
supervisedsoftindependentmodelingofclassanalogies("SIMCA")toclassifyunknownfabricsamples.
[0023]Broadly,thefirststepinthecurrentmethodpertainstothedevelopmentofadatabaseofspectraldataofknown
fabricsamples.Preferably,thespectraldatacollectedisdiffusenearinfraredreflection("NIR")spectra.Anysuitable
spectrometercapableofcollectingdiffuseNIRspectracanbeused.Preferably,theNIRspectrometerincludesaquartz
halogensource,monochromator,leadsulfidedetectors,andanintegratingsphere,coatedwithbariumsulphate(Soyemiet
al,2001).Examplesofthefabriccategoriestobesampledforinclusioninthedatabaseincludeacetate,acrylic,blends,
cotton,linen,mohair,nylon,olefin,polyester,PVD,rayon,silk,andwool.
[0024]ThefabricsamplesshouldbescannedbytheNIRspectrometerinasinglelayerandshouldnotbefoldedor
crumpledinthesampleholder.Nosamplepretreatmentisrequired.Theapertureoftheintegratingsphereshouldbefully
coveredbythefabricsample.Aftercollectionofthespectraldataforeachfabrictype,thedataisenteredintoasuitable
chemometricanalysisprogram(Unscrambler9.1,Camo,Inc.,Corvallis,OR).Althoughnosamplepretreatmentis
required,aSavitzkyGolaysmoothingroutineispreferablyusedasadatapretreatment.

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[0025]Thechemometrictechniquecalledsoftindependentmodelingofclassanalogy("SIMCA")isusedinconjunctionwith
thespectraldatabasetosortunknownfabricsamplesintotheirappropriatefibertype.SIMCAisaclassificationmethod
basedondisjointPCA(principalcomponentanalysis)modeling.Aprincipalcomponentanalysisisdoneforagivengroupof
sampleswithinafabriccategory.Thisstepcalibratesthemultivariateprogramsoitcandiscernwhatsamplebelongsto
whichcategory.IntheSIMCAapproach,classificationinPLSisperformedinordertoidentifylocalmodelsforpossible
groupsandtopredictaprobableclassmembershipfornewobservations.Atfirst,thisapproachrunsaglobalPCAorPLS
regression(accordingtotheavailabledatastructure)onthewholedatasetinordertoidentifygroupsofobservations.Local
modelsarethenestimatedforeachclass.Finally,newobservationsareclassifiedtooneoftheestablishedclassmodelson
thebasisoftheirbestfittotherespectivemodel.
[0026]Thisapproach,enforcesthecompositionoftheclassestobethesameastheoneinitiallychosenonthebasisofthe
globalmodel,computesthedistanceofeachobservationfromthemodelwithrespecttotheexplanatoryvariable,andin
ordertocomputetheclassmembershipprobabilities,referstoadistributionofthisdistancewhoseshapeanddegreesof
freedom,arenotyetcompletelyclearanddemonstrated.
[0027]InSIMCA,aPCAisperformedoneachclassinthedataset,andasufficientnumberofprincipalcomponentsare
retainedtoaccountformostofthevariationwithineachclass.Hence,aprincipalcomponentmodelisusedtorepresent
eachclassinthedataset.Thenumberofprincipalcomponentsretainedforeachclassisusuallydifferent.Decidingonthe
numberofprincipalcomponentsthatshouldberetainedforeachclassisimportant,asretentionoftoofewcomponentscan
distortthesignalorinformationcontentcontainedinthemodelabouttheclass,whereasretentionoftoomanyprincipal
componentsdiminishesthesignaltonoise.Aprocedurecalledcrossvalidationensuresthatthemodelsizecanbe
determineddirectlyfromthedata.Toperformcrossvalidation,segmentsofthedataareomittedduringthePCA.Usingone,
two,three,etc.,principalcomponents,omitteddataarepredictedandcomparedtotheactualvalues.Thisprocedureis
repeateduntileverydataelementhasbeenkeptoutonce.Theprincipalcomponentmodelthatyieldstheminimum
predictionerrorfortheomitteddataisretained.Hence,crossvalidationcanbeusedtofindthenumberofprincipal
componentsnecessarytodescribethesignalinthedatawhileensuringhighsignaltonoisebynotincludingthesocalled
secondaryornoiseladenprincipalcomponentsintheclassmodel.Thevariancethatisexplainedbytheclassmodelis
calledthemodeledvariance,whichdescribesthesignal,whereasthenoiseinthedataisdescribedbytheresidualvariance
orthevariancenotaccountedforbythemodel.
[0028]Bycomparingtheresidualvarianceofanunknowntotheaverageresidualvarianceofthosesamplesthatmakeup
theclass,itispossibletoobtainadirectmeasureofthesimilarityoftheunknowntotheclass.Thiscomparison,isalsoa
measureofthegoodnessoffitofthesample,toaparticularprincipalcomponentmodel.
[0029]Whenanewunknownsampleisintroduced,SIMCAwillcomparethespectralfeaturesofthenewsamplewiththose
principalcomponentanalysestheoperatorwishestoinvestigate.Iftheprogramdeterminesthesampleissimilarenoughto
oneormorecategories,itwillclassifythesampleassuch.However,ifthesampleisconsiderednottofallintoanyofthe
categoriesdefinedbythegivenprincipalcomponentanalysesitwillberejectedandnotclassified.TheSIMCAapproachto
classificationdiffersfromthatofpartialleastsquares(PLS)discriminantanalysis.Adiscriminantanalysismakesthe
assumptionthatanewunknownisamemberofoneoftheclassesincludedintheanalysis.SIMCAcanclassifyasample
asbeinginssinglegroup,multiplegroups,ornotinanyofthegroupspresented.Thismethodologyisadvantageousina
situationwherethesampleinquestionisofunknownorigin,andthereisabsolutelynoinformationaboutitavailable.APLS
discriminantanalysiscouldclassifythesampleasamemberofaclassevenifitwasn'tduetotheassumptionthatthe
samplemustfallintooneoftheprearrangedcategories.
[0030]Thespectraldataarepreferablygovernedbylog1/R.ThedatacanbetransformedtotheKubelkaMunk("KM")
functionusingthecomputermodelingprogram.Thenewsetofspectracanthenbeenteredintotheprincipalcomponent
analysesforthefabriccategories.Eithertypeofanalysescanbeused,althoughlog1/Rismoreaccurateforpredicting
unknownfabricclassifications.
[0031]Inparticular,themethodforclassifyingfabricsbynearinfraredspectroscopyinvolvesthefollowingsteps.First,a
databaseofspectraldatafromanumberoffabricsamplesofvariousknownfabrictypesisprepared.Topreparethe
database,spectraldatafromapluralityoffabricsamplesofdifferentknownfabrictypesiscollected.Thenaprincipal
componentanalysisandpartialleastsquaresregressionisperformedusingthespectraldatacollectedforeachofthe
differentknownfabrictypes.Thedatabasethencontainsmodelprincipalcomponentanalysesforeachoftheknownfabric
typesandcanbeusedtoclassifyanunknownfabricsample.Thespectraldataoftheunknownfabricsampleisthen
collected.Finally,thedatabaseofmodelprincipalcomponentanalysesisusedinassociationwithSIMCAtoclassifythe
unknownfabricsampleintoeitheroneormoreofthedifferentknownfabrictypesoratypeofunknownorigin.TheSIMCA
classificationmethodmayclassifytheunknownsampleintomorethanonefabrictype.IftheSIMCAclassificationmethod
doesnotidentifyasuitablefabrictypeintowhichtheunknownfabricsamplecanbeclassified,itwillnotplacethesample
intoanyoftheknowncategories.[0032]Thisstrategyisusefulfordeterminingthefibercontentandtextilecompositionof
variousunknownfabrics,includingacetate,acrylic,blends,cotton,linen,mohair,nylon,olefin,polyester,PVC,rayon,silk,
andwool.Preferably,thespectraldatacollectedisdiffusenearinfraredreflectionspectraldata.
EXAMPLE1.DEVELOPMENTOFSPECTRALDATABASEOFFABRIC
SAMPLES
[0033]Fabricsamplesweregatheredfromsamplecards,swatchcatalogs,andclippingsfromactualgarmentsandfabric
bolts.Inall,atotalof826sampleswerecollectedandplacedintothefabricNIRdatabase.Abreakdownoftheindividual
fabriccategories,andthenumberoffabricsamplesinthosecategoriescanbeseeninTable1below.

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FabricSamples11,TotSamples',PCASamples0,p^
Acetate615110
Acrylic4
Blends50
Cotton27426311
Linen5
Mohair2
Nylon4
Olefin1
Polyester1099910
PVC1
Rayon776710
Silk463610
Wool19218210
Table1.Fabricdatabasesummary(a,totalsamplesindatabaseb,samplesincludedin
PCAc ,samplespredicted)
[0034]TheNIRspectrometerusedhadaquartzhalogensource,monochromator,leadsulfidedetectors,andanintegrating
sphere,coatedwithbariumsulphate,whichalloweddiffusereflectancemeasurementstobecollected(Soyemietal.,2001).
TheNIRspectrometerwasattachedtoandcontrolledbyapersonalcomputerrunningLabviewsoftware.Nosample
pretreatmentwaspreformed.Thefabricswerescannedasasinglelayerandnotfoldedorcrumpledinthesampleholder.
Theapertureoftheintegratingspherewasfullycoveredbythefabricsample.Eachsamplewasscannedfrom1100to2200
rrmatevery2nm.
[0035]ThespectraldataforeachfabricgroupwerecombinedintoonelargespectraldatafileintheUnscrambler9.1
(Camo,Inc.,Corvallis,OR)chemometricanalysisprogram.Althoughtherewasnosamplepretreatment,aSavitzkyGolay
smoothingroutinewasusedasadatapretreatment.Thewavelengthregionsmoothedwasfrom13241916nmwithfive
averagingsidepointsoneitherendofthedata.
[0036]Thewavelengthregionusedintheprincipalcomponentanalyseswasfrom13341906nm,andeachPCAwas
preformedusingfullcrossvalidation.ForeachPCA,sixprincipalcomponentswereusedinthecalculation.Someofthe
fabricgroupssuchascottonandpolyestercouldmanagewithfour.However,acetateandwooldidnothaveasmuch
spectralvarianceexplainedintheirfirstfourPC's.
[0037]Examplesofgroupspectraforacetate,cotton,polyester,andwoolcanbeseeninFigures1through4.Figure5
showsthespectraofall826samplesinthetextiledatabase.Anexampleprincipalcomponentanalysis("PCA")forthe
cottonfabricsamplesisshowninFigure6.
EXAMPLE2.CLASSIFICATIONOFUNKNOWNFABRICSAMPLES
[0038]ThemodelPCA'sforacetate,cotton,andwoolwereusedtoclassifyasetofunknowns.Theunknownsconsistedof
10acetate,polyester,andwool,aswellas11cottonsamples.TheresultofthisanalysiscanbeseeninTable2below.All
ofthesampleswereclassifiedintheappropriatecategorywithnoadditionalmisclassifications.
Table2

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[0039]Thespectrainthisstudyweregeneratedbylog1/R.ThereflectancedatacouldbeconvertedtotheKubelkaMunk
(KM)functionhowever,theconversionshowednoimprovementintheclassificationanalysis.EXAMPLE3.
CLASSIFICATIONOFMISLABELEDSAMPLE
[0040]Bycoincidence,itwasfoundthatoneofthefabricsamplesinthedatabasecreatedinExample1wasapparently
mislabeled.AspecificsilksamplewasrepeatedlynotclassifiedasasilkwhencomparedtothesilkPCA.Underthe
assumptionthatthesilksamplemaynotbeasilk,itwasscreenedagainstallthemodelsthathadbeenproducedforthis
study.ThesampledidnotgetapositiveclassificationuntilitwascomparedtothepolyesterPCA,asshowninTable4
below.
Table4

[0041]Thispromptedacloserexaminationofthespectrumofthe"fake"silkandthespectraofseveralsilkandpolyester
samples.TheprincipalNIRbandat1672nmpresentinthetwoacceptedpolyestersamplescanclearlybeseeninthe
questionablesilksample,asshowninFigure8.Thisindicatesthatthesampleisinfactapolyesterandnotasilk.Those
wishingtofakeasilkgarmenttypicallyusepolyesterduetothefinishesthatareusedonthefibers.
REFERENCESCITED
Theentirecontentofeachofthefollowingdocumentsisherebyincorporatedbyreference.
OTHERPUBLICATIONS
Kadolph,etal.,TextileFibersandTJieirProperties,vol.9,pp.1731,2002

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Soyemi,etal.,Spectroscopy,vol.16,pp.2433,2001

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G01N21/3563,G01N2201/129,G01N21/359

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