Wool finishing

(4.5 hrs)

Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

MILLING
Milling is an essential process for

woolen material.
Also known as felting and fulling.
This is used to alter the appearance,

body, elasticity and the strength of the

woolen fabric.
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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

MILLING
Different types of wool vary in their

ability to felt and this depends on:

(1) Length
(2) Fineness
(3) Scaliness
(4) Waviness

Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

MILLING
The object of milling is to make the

fabric fuller and denser as a result of

which the woven pattern becomes more
or less obscure (unclear, indistinct, or
blurred).
Both dyed and undyed fabrics are
milled.
The milled cloth is suitable for
producing a raised finish.
Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

MILLING
Milling is classified into two types:
(a) Acid milling
(b) Alkaline milling (including soap milling)

Both are carried out in stock or in rotary milling machine.

The three essential requirements for felting to occur are:
(1) Moisture
(2) Heat
(3) Pressure

Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

ALKALINE MILLING
This may be carried out with soap and soda

ash or with alkali alone.

Alkali is used when milling in the grease.
It is actually a form of soap milling, where
the soap is formed by interaction between
the alkali and the grease, instead of applied
as such.

Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

ALKALINE MILLING
The fabric is wetted with sodium

carbonate at a pH of 9 to 11 and
temperature of 38C.
Suitable for unscoured wool of low quality.
Not suitable for fine fabrics.
Both scouring and milling are carried out in
one operation.
30% cost saving compared to soap milling.
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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

SOAP MILLING

It is the method most widely used.

The cost is higher than greasy or acid milling.
Softer cloths are obtained with much less risk of

damage.
There is minimum wear and tear on both fabric and
machines.
Soap solution of 8 to 10% at 40C is used.
After milling, the material is given a short and warm
wash to remove all traces of soap.
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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

ACID MILLING

It is very suitable for heavy fabrics such as

felts for printing and paper-making

machines.
Also employed for colored woven goods due
to less bleeding of color.
Sulphuric acid is the best milling agent.
0.2 to 0.5% of sulphuric acid at a pH of 2 and
temperature of 45C is used.
After milling the fabric should be washed
thoroughly.
Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

ACID MILLING
This method is used to mill cross breed wool which is

difficult to mill with soap solution.

It is suitable only for animal fibers since it destroys
the cellulosic fibers and produces unwanted
harshness.
Before milling, fabric should be thoroughly scoured
to remove any traces of soap, as the soap precipitates
the acid.

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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

PERMANENT SET
One of the most remarkable properties of wool is its elasticity,

which increases with the moisture content.

When wool is stretched in cold water it is highly elastic.
The behavior of wool which has been stretched for a time in
hot water or steam is different.

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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

PERMANENT SET
It becomes set and does not recover in cold water, even

in the absence of tension.

This behavior has been utilized in textile finishing processes
and often described as permanent set.

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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

PERMANENT SET
The chief processes for imparting permanent set to wool are:
(1) Crabbing
(2) Blowing or Decatising
(3) Potting or Roll-boiling

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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

CRABBING
Carried out to bring dimensional stability.
To eliminate the strains developed on the fiber during

spinning and weaving.

To eliminate the distortions like crocking and uneven
shrinkage.

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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

CRABBING
The degree of stress relaxation during crabbing depends on:
(a) Fiber quality
(b) Yarn twist
(c) Cloth construction
(d) Subsequent dyeing and finishing operations.

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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

CRABBING
Crabbing consists of winding the fabric on a roller under

tension on to a beam through hot or boiling water,

containing a wetting agent.
Then the loaded beam is rotated in the hot or boiling
bath for about 10 minutes.
The fabric is then wound on another beam and the
operation is repeated.

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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

CRABBING
By this method, the fabric is set and does not get distorted

during the subsequent processing.

The effectiveness of crabbing depends on:
(a) Tension
(b) Duration of the treatment
(c) Composition of the crabbing liquor
(d) Temperature
(e) pH of the crabbing liquor

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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

CRABBING
Higher tension leads to the production of a papery feel

in the fabric.
Too low temperature leads to inadequate setting.
The pH of the should be maintained at 7. crabbing liquor

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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

CRABBING
Poor setting may take place if the pH becomes acidic.
In the composition of the crabbing liquor, no alkali

should be added.
The addition of alkali will damage the fabric.
Prolonged crabbing with alkaline solution discolor the
fabric and impart a poor handle.

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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

CRABBING
Care should be taken while winding, as bad winding leads

to listing (cause to lean to the side).

Creases should not be allowed to form while winding,
as these creases too will get set during crabbing.

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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

DECATISING/BLOWING
This is mostly meant for woolen fabrics, but today all

suitings are decatised.

The cloth is subjected to the action of steam, which is
forced through the fabric under pressure.
As the steam is applied to the fabric while it is in a state of
strain, a permanent set is produced.

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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

DECATISING/BLOWING
The purpose of blowing is to set the woven structure in a

regular and permanent manner.

The lustrous effect being secondary, results from the
improved regularity of the structure, together with the
slight flattening.
The fabric is wound on a perforated roller whose
perforations are covered with a cotton or canvas
wrapper.

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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

DECATISING/BLOWING
The winding takes place under tension, which must not

be excessive or pressure marks will result.

A wide wrapper is the applied and the ends are firmly
bound with cord.
Steam is blown through the roll of fabric for 8 to 15
minutes.

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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

DECATISING/BLOWING
The wool becomes plastic, strains are relieved to give a

stable balanced product.

This state is fixed by cooling, which is usually carried out
by blowing cool air through the fabric roll.
It is essential that the cloth should be dried before
removal.

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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

DECATISING/BLOWING
It may be necessary to re-wind the fabric and blow again, so

that both the ends receive the same treatment.

This second treatment is usually of shorter duration as
the fabric is already hot.
Wool fiber contains small quantity of Thiol groups (SH).

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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

DECATISING/BLOWING
These groups are converted into Disulphide bond (-S-

S-) by the reaction of wool with a reducing agent or by

the action of hot water, steam or alkalis.
This interchange reaction and hydrogen bond
rearrangement are important in wool setting.

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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

DECATISING/BLOWING
The effectiveness of decatising depends on:
(a) Type of fiber
(b) Time of contact
(c) Amount of steam
(d) Tension
(e) Type of finish desired

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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

POTTING/BOILING
Used to produce a soft handle and a smooth glossy surface.
The goods are treated on a perforated iron roller, whose

perforations are covered with a cotton or canvas wrapper.

Fabric is wound on to this roller at full width and without
any creases.
A certain amount of tension must be applied during the
winding process.

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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

POTTING/BOILING
The roll of fabric is then covered with a wrapper of

cotton or canvas and both ends are securely tied with

cords.
The rolls are placed vertically in a cistern (tank) of water
which is gradually brought to 60C.
It is maintained at the same temperature for at least 3 to 5
hours or possibly 2 to 3 days.

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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

POTTING/BOILING
The goods are lifted from the cistern when the boiling is

complete and allowed to drain and cool in an upright

position.
The cloth is unwound and the process is repeated with
the centre of the roll on the outer layers.

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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

BEAMING
Regarded as a mild form of potting.
Used to remove crimps or other marks which have arisen

during scouring, milling or dyeing.

The goods are run through hot water and stretched in the
direction of weft by an expander roller, before running onto
a wooden roller or beam.

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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra

BEAMING
The goods are allowed to cool over a period of 12 to 48

hours.
With light-weight woolens, steaming treatment may
replace hot water.

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Ms.Chavi Goyal,DFT, Asst. Prof., NIFT, Kangra