EXPERT ADVICE FROM START TO FINISH

MICHAEL LITCHFIELD
& MICHAEL McALISTER

EXPERT ADVICE FROM START TO FINISH

Text by Michael W. Litchfield and Michael McAlister,

2008 by The Taunton Press, Inc.

Photographs 2008 by The Taunton Press, Inc., except as noted.

ozens of people made this book possible. We are

especially indebted to the electricians and builders

who got us onto job sites and allowed us to photoqraph

Illustrations 2008 by The Taunton Press, Inc.

them at work. Thanks to old friend Rafael Maldonado

All rights reserved.

of Blue Electric in Berkeley, California, for sharing his

IT ITheTauntonPress

Jorqe Dominquez, and Carios GUerrero. Huqe thanks to

vast knowledge and his crew, particularly Isaac Castro,

the unflappable Daniel Kealey, Nathan Parker, and Din

]nspira(;on for hand.oon living"

Abdullah of MRM Electrical, Berkeley. LIkewise, Kevin

McCarthy, Simon Jordan, Ki Soo An, and Jimmy Stuart.

The Taunton Press, Inc.,

A million thanks to Mike Zelinka and colleagues at Laner

63 Sout h Main Street, PO Box 5506,

Electric in Richmond, California.

Newtown, CT 06470-5506

We are qrateful to Jana Olson, Karen Cornell, and John

e-mail: tp@taunton.com

Nicoles of Omega Too Lighting In Berkeley for the excel-

Editors : Matthew Teagu e, Helen Albert

also to Nowell's Antique Lightinq in Sausalito, California.

lent sequences of lamp and chandelier repair. Thanks

Copy editor: Candace 8. Levy

Hats off to Jamie Carlen and Chris D'Andrea of

Indexer: Jay Kreider

Jamie Carlen & Co., Berkeley; and Chip Harfey, Jesus

Jacket/Cover design : Kimberly Adis

Beltran, and Gelber Guzman of Holfand-Harley. Thanks

Interior des ign: Kimberly Adis

to supremely talented architect Gary Earl Parsons of

Layout: Cathy Cassidy

Berkeley and his associate Cecil Lee.

Illustrator: Trevor Johnston

Thanks to Roqer Robinson of the Star inspection

Photographer: Michael Litchfield, except where noted .

Group, Oakland, California, for letting us cherry-pick his

photo archiVe of code violations; Casablanca Fans for

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

product shots; Muffy Kibbey for photos of the handsome

Litchfield, Michael.

kitchen in the planninq chapter; and Ken Gutmaker for

Wiring complete / Michael Litchfield and Michael McAlister. -- Rev. ed.

p. em.

(Taunton, 2005).

Includes index.

ISBN

photos that first appeared in Renovation, 3rd Edition

Thanks to homeowners Catherine Moncrleff and

978+6008S ~ 256 ~ 5

Stuart Brotman, Martha and Dean Rutherford, Judith

1. Electric wiring, Interior. 2. Dwellings-'Electric equipment. I. McAlister, Michael.

II. Title.

and Stanley Lubman, Laurie Case, and Andy Baker.

Finally, high-fives to the Taunton Press family and

TK3285.L542008b

friends, Including Executive Editor Helen Albert, Wendl

62I.3F24~~dc22

Mijal, Matthew Teaque, Jennifer Peters, Nicole Palmer,

200B054144

Julie Hamilton, Sandor Naqyszalanczy, Rex Cauldwell,

Clifford Popejoy, Joseph Truini, Mike Guertin, and
Fernando Paqes Rulz.
-Michael Litchfield and Michael McAlister

Printed in the United States of America

1098765432
The following manufacturers/names used in Wiring Complete are trademarks: Adapt-Touch, American Aldes, BernzOmatic, Broan-NuTone sM , Capsylite ,
Casablanca Fan Co., Channeliock , Clikstrip , Code Check, Condulet, COPALUM , Cutl er'Hammer , Decora, DeWALT, Fantech, Federal Pacific ,
Fluke , Greenlee Nail Eater, Grip-lok, Halogen Capsylite , Hubbell , Hunter, Ideal, InSinkErator , International Code Council , Juno , Kelvar,
Klein ToolsTM, Knipex, Kobe , Legrand, lemnis, Leviton, Ughtolier , lutron , Milwaukee, National Electrical Code , Nouvelie fan, Panasonic,
Panduit , Philiips, PowerFast , Romex , Roto-Spilt , Rotozip, Scandia fan, Seatek , Snap-Tite , Speed Square, Square D , Strap Gun , Tech
Ughting , Tech lightingS"I, Vol'Con lite, Watt Stopper , WD-40 , Wiggy, Wire'Nut , Zinsco
Wiring is inherently dangerous. Using hand or power tools improperly or ignoring safety practices can lead to permanent injury or even
death . Don't try to perform operations you learn about here (or elsewhere) unless you're certain they are safe for you. If something
about an operation doesn' t feel r ight, don't do it . Look for another way. We want you to enjoy wor k ing on your home, so please keep
safety foremost in your mind.

::::I

..

6
7
8

Understanding Electricity
Working Safely
Service Panels

10
12

Home Electrical Systems

Grounding Basics

14

Evaluating the Electrical

System

CUTTING POWER
16

Cutting Power at
the Panel

23
24

Power Tools
Electrical Testers

ELECTRICA~

18

Tester
Testing with an
Inductance Tester

BOXES

28

Choosing Electrical Boxes

Installing New
Work Boxes
Removing Knockouts

29

Mounting Devices

Z1

CABLES & WIRES

30

Testing with a Neon

40

Hand Tools

32
17

TOOLS & MATERIALS

22

25

33
34
35

36
37

....
II)
::::I
....
en

Cable & Conduit

Cable Clamps & Clips
Securing Cable to
Framing
Stripping Cable with
a Utility Knife
Stripping Cable with
a Cable Ripper
Choosing Wire
Stripping & Splicing Wires

42
43

Choosing Receptacles
& Switches
Back-Wired Devices
Testing for Power

WIRING RECEF'TACLES
44
45
47
48
49

Two Ways to Wire a Receptacle

Wiring a Duplex Receptacle
Making Receptacle Boxes
Flush to Orywall
Wiring a GFCI Receptacle
Wiring a Split-Tab Receptacle

TESTING DEVICES
50
51
51

Testing a Single-Pole Switch

Testing a Three-Way Switch
Testing a Four-Way Switch

WIRING SWITCHES
52
53

54
56
58
59
60
61

Wiring a Single-Pole Switch

Single-Pole Switch
with Back-Fed Wiring
Replacing a Single-Pole Switch
Wiring a Linear Slide Dimmer
Roughing In a Three-Way Switch
Wiring a Three-Way Switch
Wiring a Back-red Three-Way Switch
Wiring a Four-Way Switch

WIRING SPECIALTY SWITCHES

... ,

62
63
63
64
65

Wiring
Wiring
Wiring
Wiring
Wiring

a SWitch/Receptacle Combo
a Double Switch
a Motion Detector
an Electronic Timer Switch
a Manual Timer

...cen
.!c

68
69

Fixture Wiring
Bulb Types

UNDERCABINET
fLUORESCENTS
92

Undercablnet
Fluorescent Fixtures

... -

110
70
72
74
75

Testing Lamps &

Removing Old Wires
Rewiring a Lamp
Replacing a Plug
Refurbishing a
Chandelier

BASIC fiXTURES
78
80

Mounting Light Fixtures

Installing a Simple
Porcelain Fixture

82
83

84

Removing an Existing

Wall Sconce
Connecting a New
Installing Halogen Bulbs
& Accessories
Prepping & Mounting

a Ceiling Box
86

Disconnecting a

f57

Chandelier
Installing a Chandelier

RECESSED LIGHTING
88
90

Cutting a Ceiling Hole

lor Recessed Lighting
Wiring a Recessed

Fixture
91

94
95

Low-Voltage Systems
Installing Low-Voltage
cable Lighting

95
96
97
98
99
101
102

Anchoring Low-Voltage
Standoffs
Running Cable

Tensioning Cables
Locating the Canopy

Mounting the Box &

Wiring the Transformer
Installing the Canopy

Securing the Can

Installing Low-Voltage
Monorail Track Lighting
104 Locating the Track
& Standoffs
105 Mounting & Wiring
the Transformer
106 Hanging the Track
103

107

114
115

Troubleshooting
a Doorbell
Replacing a Ooorbell
Switch
Installing a Chime Unit
Installing a Doorbell
Transformer

THERMOSTATS
116
117

Testing an Old
Thermostat
Installing a
Programmable
Thermostat

Attaching the reed Rods

& Fixtures

Sconce

CHANDELIERS
85

113

TOOLS & MATERIALS

Installing the Light

Fixtures

118

Replacing a Furnace
Transformer

122

Multimedia Cables
& Connectors

123

Stripping Cable

124 Extending a Phone Line

126 Mounting a New Jack

DISTRIBUTION PANELS
Mounting a Media
Distribution Panel
130 Running Cables to a
Media Distribution Panel
131 Connecting Cables
at the Panel

127

132
133
134
135
136

Locating the
Multimedia Outlet
Installing Cable
Connectors
Connecting Panduit
Jacks
Installing Leviton Jacks
Attaching Jacks to
an Outlet Plate

WIRING :rIPS

...

140 Before You Begin

141
142
143
145
146

Choosing a Bathroom Fan

Locating a Bathroom Fan
Installing the Roof Vent
Mounting the Fan Box
Retrofitting a Bathroom

147

ran
Wiring a Bathroom Fan

Mounting & Dueling

a Ranqe Hood
150 Wiring the Range Hood

161

152

Installing the Ceiling

Fan Box
154 Mounting the Ceiling ran

Condition
Is the System Adequately
Sized?

..

163 Common Code

Requirements
164 General-Use Circuit

Requirements

149

CEILING FANS

158 Inspecting the Fuse Box

or Breaker Panel
160 Assessing Wiring

WORKING DRAWINGS
165
168
170
172
174

Developing a Floor Plan

Electrical Notation
Receptacles
Switches & Lights
Receptacles. Switches &
Lights

GETTING S:rARTED
Rough-In Basics
Tools for Rough-In

178
180
182
184

Materials for Rough-In

Laying Out the Job

:0

186 Installing Wall Boxes

187 Installing Ceiling Boxes

RUNNING CABLE
188 Drilling for Cable
189 Pulling Cable
190 Feeding Cable through

202
203
204
205
206
207
208

209

Flexible Metal Cable

Installing AC Cable
Installing MC cable
Working with EMT Steel
Conduit
Making Turns with Metal
Conduit
rlshing Cable & Conduit
Prepping Receptacles
for Surface Metal Boxes
Wiring Outlets

Corners
Fishing Cable behind
rlnish Walls
192 Fishing Cable to a
Ceiling Fixture
191

..

194 Cutting a Wall Box into

Plaster
194 Cutting a Wall Box Into
Drywall
195 Retrofitting a Ceiling Box
196 Creating a Wiring Trench
197 Retrofitting Boxes &
Pulling Cable

MAKING UP BOXES
198 Making Up an Outlet 80x
199 Making Up a Light Can
200 Making Up a Single
Switch Box
201 Making Up a Multigang
Switch Box

..
en

c
.!c

:3

.-

212

213

A QulckLook at
Kitchen Appliances
Preparing an Unfinished
Appliance Cord

GARBAGE DISPOSERS
214

Installing a Garbage

Disposer

216
217

.-

238 Understanding Service

Panels & Subpanels
240 Sizing Panels. Subpanels
& Conductors

OUTDOOR OUTLETS

CIRCUIT BREAKERS

228 Tapping Into an Existing

242 Adding a Circuit 8reaker

Outlet

Roughing In an Oven
Outlet
Wiring a Drop-In Oven

230 Mounting & Wiring an

Exterior Outlet

OUTBUILDINGS
231

218 Wiring Laundry Setups

220 Installlnq Baseboard
Heaters
221 Electric Water Heaters

224 Planning Your Outdoor

System
225 Choosing Outdoor Lights
226 Tools & Materials

Running Power to
an Outbuilding

. ....
"

233 Installing Low-Voltage

Path Lights

MOTION -SENSOR LIGHTS

235 Installing a Motion-

Sensor Ught

SUBPANELS
244 Installing a Subpanel

INTRODUCTIO
lectrica l wiring requ i res attention to deta i l, patience. and a
little de xterity. but it ' s noth i ng the
average homeowner can't tackle .

Befor e you buckle on that tool be lt ,

however. take a few moments to
read the first section. which pro
vides an overview of electrical
systems and a handful of es sential
safety tips . Section Two walks you

through the tool s you'll need and

various techniques you'll use again
and again. The remainder of the
book takes you through every

step of the wiring proce ss -from

replac i ng an o l d light fi xture to
wiring an ent i re house.
Before you buy tools and materi als, however, check with local build ing code authorities. Although most
local bui ldi ng codes do not forb id an
owner ' s doing his or her own elec trical work. most require a rough
inspect ion-that is, before wi res are
connected to switches, receptacles
and so on-and a final in spection
when everyth i ng is wired , trimmed ,
and tested . Be sides, bu i lding inspec-

tors are usually k now ledgeable: They

can tell you if local codes conform
to the National Electrica l Code or ,
if not , how they vary. Fi nally, ch ec k
with your insurance agent t o make
sure that doing your own electrical
work won ' t jeopardi ze your home owners insurance coverage.

----,1

ORKING WITH
LECTRICITY
EFORE WORKING WITH electricity,
you should hove 0 basic understondInll of how It works. This chopter Is
desillned to IIlve you 0 quick overview of the
electrlcol system In your home, Includlnll
the moJor components. Since IIroundlnll Is
e.sentlol to keeplnll you sofe, we cover thot
In detoll. We'll olso show how to do 0 boslc
Inspection of your home for wlrlnll problems. Respectlnll the power of electricity Is

es.entlol to worklnll sofely. Alwoys follow

the Instructions corefully, use opproprlote
sofety equipment, ond when In doubt consuit 0 licensed electrlclon.
aefore belllnnlnll work, check with locol
bulldlnll authorities to moke sure locol
requlotlons ollow you to do your own work
ond thot you ore conformlnll to locol code
requirements.

UNDERSTANDING ELECTRICITY

he easiest way to understand how electricity flows is to visua lize

AC (alternating current) electrical systems can be thought of

water flowing through a pipe. Electricity (flowing electrons called

as a loop that runs from the generation point (or power source)

current) moves through a circuit like water in a pipe . Just as the flow

through utilization equipment (a light bulb for instance) and back

of water is measured in gallons per minute, the electrical flow of elec-

to the generation point. Along the way it may cross the country

trons is measured in "amperes" or amps . Water pressure is measured

through great transmission lines, through the power lines on your

in pounds per square inch, and the force of electrons in a circuit is

street, and through the cables in the wa!ls of your house. In your

measured in volts. The larger the pipe, the more water that can flow

home, the main loop, that is the service to your home, is broken into

through it; likewise, the larger wires allow a greater flow of electrical

smaller loops ca lled Circu its. Typically, a hot wire (usually black or

current. Too much water can rupture a pipe. Wiring that is too small

red) carries current to the utilization equipment from the service

will resist the flow of current. If that resistance (measured in ohms) is

pane!, and a neutral wire (typically white or light gray) carries

too great. the wires can melt and cause a fire.

current back to the service panel.

CIRCUIT BASICS

Key Terms

Electricity always flows in a circuit . The hot wire carries

the current from the power source to the fixture and the
neutral wire returns it to the power source.

Ground wlr'. - - - - -F

Black
"hot"

wlr.

"--'::-:i!'"

""'''-.J--,-

White
"neutral"
wire

Power (Volt-Amps or VA)

The potential in the system to create
motion (motors), heat (heaters), light (fixtures or lamps), etc. Volt-amps = available
volts x available amps (VA).
Watts
Are a measure of power consumed. Watts
are very similar to volt-amps, the main
difference being that some energy is lost
through heat and/or inherent inefficiencies
in equipment.
Voltage
Voltage is the pressure of the electrons
in a system. Voltage is measured in volts.
Amperes (Amps)
The measure of the volume of electrons
flowing through a system (current).
Current
The flow of electrons in a system. Current
is measured in amperes (amps'. There are
two types of current: DC (direct current)
and AC (alternating current). Typically
AC is found in homes and buildings.

-";::;:- - - - Fixture

61UNDERSTANDING ELECTRICITY

Ohms
Ohms is the measure of resistance to
the flow of electrons (current) in a material
(like a cable). The higher the resistance,
the lower the flow of electrons.

WORKING SAFELY

o work safely with electricity you must

respect its power. If you understand its

nature and heed the safety warnings in this

book-especially shutting off the power and
testing with a voltage tester to make sure
power is off-you can work with it safely. The
cardinal rule of home-improvement projects,
which goes double for electrical work, is:
Know your limitations. Unless you have previous experience doing electrical work and feel
confident about your skills, you should leave
certain projects to a pro. Working inside a
service panel or removing its cover can be
especially dangerous. There is an area
around the main breaker that remains hot
even after the breaker is set to the off position. Never attempt to remove or repair the
main service panel or the service entrance
head. When in doubt, call a licensed electrician rather than risk harm.
For most projects, careful attention to fol-

Turn off the power to the circuit at the

main service panel before removinq
receptacle, switch, or fi xture covers.

After removinq the plate or cover, test

aqain to make sure power is off.

Wear qloves to protect your hands

from the sharp edqes of wires, cables,
and metal boxes.

Wear safety qlasses when sawinq or

drillinq, especially when workinq overhead.

lowing the instructions in this book will keep

you safe and ensure good r esu lts. Where
there is a particular risk in a project, we will
call attention to it with a warning, such as
the following:

WARNING
Please read this information
carefully as it could save you
from serious injury.

Always wear appropriate safety gear,

including rubber-soled shoes, gloves
(if working with cables, wires, or metal
boxes); and safety glasses and a dust
mask (when sawing or working overhead).
And remember that current flows most
easily along a path of least resistance, but
it will follow any path that's available ...
including you!

WORKING SAfELY

I7

SERVICE PANELS

t the main service panel, the two

INSIDE THE SERVICE PANEL

hot cables from the meter base

attach to lug term inals atop the main

breaker. The incoming neutral cable
attaches to the main lug of the neu+
tral!ground bus. In main service panels ,
Incominq

neutral/ground buses must be bonded,

-i-- - -I - qround

usually by a main bonding jumper.

In subpanels and all other locations

--t!---- .---'--

downstream from the main service

pane!, ground and neutral buses must

Hot feeder lines

(incominq power)
Incomlnq
neutral

be electrically isolated from each other.

In a main fuse box, the hot cables
attach to the main power lugs, and

the neutral cable to the main neutral

Main breaker

lug. Whether the panel has breakers

Hot bus bar

(behind breakers)

or fuses, meta l buses run from the

bottom of the main breaker/main fuse.

;;;1iI~1 =.- Neutral bus bar

Running down the middle of the pane!.

buses distribute power to the various

Ground bus bar

branch circuits. Similarly, neutral/

ground buses are long aluminum
strips with many screws, to which
ground and neutral wires attach.
Each fuse or breaker is rated at
a specific number of amps, such as
15 or 20. When a circuit becomes
overloaded, its current flow becomes
excessively high. This causes its
breaker to trip or its fuse strip to melt,
thereby cutting voltage to the hot
wires. All current produces heat; but

breaker

as current doubles, the heat generated

quadruples. If there were no break-

cable attaches
here.

ers or fuses, current would continue

flowing until the wires overheated

-

and a fire started. Thus the amperage ratings of breakers and fuses are

+t- Mlain bondinq

Jumper

matched to the size (cross-sectional

area) of the circuit wires.

The main breaker

All electricity entering a house goes
through the main breaker, which is
usually located at the top of a main
pane l. In an emergency, throw the
main breaker switch to cut all power
to the house. The main breaker is also

81SERVICE PANELS

The main panel houses incoming cables

from the meter as well as the breakers
and wires that distribute electricity to
individual circuits. At the service, neutral
conductors (white wires), equipmentgrounding conductors (bare copper or
green insulated wires), the metal service
panel, and the grounding electrode system
(grounding rods) must be bonded together.

-,+jHiot buses

t-~~:::::::::::::2~~W for circu it cables

on all sides
of panel

the primary overcu rrent protection

for the electrical system and is rated
accord ingly. (The rat ing is stamped on
the breaker handle.) Thus if the main
brea ker for a 200-amp panel senses
incomi ng current that exceeds its overload rati ng, the breaker will

a utomat i ~

cally trip and sh ut off all power.

Meter-main combos
Increasingly common are meter-main
combos, which house a meter base and
a main service panel in a single box.
Meter-main combos allow a homeowner
to put the main breaker outside the
house, where it can be accessed in an
emergency-say, if firefighters wa nt
LabelinQ breakers speeds identification
of the switch that turns off power to a device.

to cut the power to a blazing house

before they enter it. When the service
panel is located out side, elec tricia ns
typically locate the subpanel close by,
inside the house , to minimize runs of
large SER (service ent rance) cable to

A meter- main combo, placed outside the

house, provides easy access for service or
emerQencies.

the subpanel.

Fuse boxes
Breaker service panels are th e most
common type you'll find in today's
homes, but many older homes st ill
have fuse boxe s. Fu ses are among the
ea rl iest overcurrent devices, and they
come as ei ther Ed ison-type (screw-in)
fuses or cartridge (slide-in) fuses. The
Ed ison-style fuses that screw in like a
light bulb are more common, and they
have littl e windows that you can peer
into to see if the fil ament is separa ted.
Se paratio n means that the circuit was
overloaded and the fu se has blown. A
bl ac kened (from heat) interior could
mean a short ci rcuit-a potentially
dangerous sit uation calling for the

Stay away 'rom the area around the main

breaker switch. It remains hot and Is extremely
danqerous.

A fuse box In a subpanel.

inter vention of a licensed electr ician.

The less commo n cartridge fuses are
used to cont rol 240-volt (240v) circuit s
and are usually part of the main
disconnect switch.

SERVICE PANELS

I9

HOME ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS

ower from the utility ser vice

is commonly delivered through

three la rge cables, or conductor s,

whic h may en ter the house overhead or underg roun d. Over head
ser vice cables are called a service

drop. These cables run to a weatherhead atop a leng th of rigid conduit.

When fed und erground, se rvic e

conductors are installed in buried

cond uit or run as underground

GFtl receptacles det ect

minuscule
current leaks
and shut off
power almost
Instantaneously.
They're Important In kitchens
and bathrooms,
where water
and dampness
Increase the
potential for
shocks.

WIRING INSIDE OUT

se rvice-ent rance (US E) ca ble.

Whether it arrives ove rhead o r

underground, three-wi re se rvice

delivers 240v.
Service cond uctors attac h to a
meter base and then to th e service
panel. Straddli ng th e two sets of
terminals on it s base, the meter
measures the wattage of elec tr icit y as it is consumed. The ser vice

panel also routes power to vario us

ci rcuit s throughout the house.
Th e utility co mpany wi ll install

Cable for
dining room
receptacles

cables to the building and will

inst all the met er. Th e hom eow ner is
responsible for eve r yt hing beyond
that, inc luding the meter base and
entrance panel, which a licensed
electricia n sho uld instal l.

Modern three-prong outlets provide a

low impedance path to ground in case
a fault occurs.

WARNING
Whether the connection
is an SER cable clamped
to the lugs of a main
breaker or between wires
spliced together in an
outlet box, the connection
must be tight to be safe.
Otherwise, electricity
can leap a gap-it's called
arcing-and that could lead
to a house fire.

10

I HOME ELE CT RICAL SY STE MS

Some appliances require 30-amp

service. This is a 125/250v dryer
receptacle. The breaker for this circuit must also be rated for 30 amps.

A tvpical three-wire service

assembly has two Insulated hot
conductors wrapped around a
bare messenger cable, which also

serves as the neutral.

The meter provides a measure

of the electrical power consumed.
Positioned outside the house, it allows the power company to monitor
consumption.

Home-run cables from main

panel to loads (run throuqh

attic. cellinq. or basement)

The service panel distributes power

to circuits throughout the house.
Breakers Interrupt power If the
circuits become overloaded.

HOME ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS

I 11

GROUNDING BASICS

ecause electricity moves in a circuit, it

has a relatively high impedance (compared

wilt return to its source unless the path

to copper wire), so if electricity is offered a

is interrupted. The return path is th rough the

path with less resistance (a copper ground

white neutral wires that bring current back to

wire), it will take it.

the main panel. In the event that the current

seeks to return to the panel through a path

-+ See
"Avoldlnq Eledrlcal
Shocks," below.

other than the neutral wire, ground wires

provide the current with an alternative low-

Individual ground wires connect to every

part of the electrica l system that could

resistance path.

Why is this important? Before equipment-

become a potential conductor-metal boxes,

grounding conductors (popularly called

receptacles, fixtures-and, through three'

ground wires) were widespread, people

pronged plugs, the metallic covers and

could be electrocuted when they came

frames of tools and appliances. The conduc'

in contact with fault currents that uninten-

tors, usually bare copper or green insulated

tionally energized the metal casing of a tool

wire, create an effective path back to the

or an electrical appliance. Ground wires

main service panel in case the equipment

bond all electrical devices and potentia lly

becomes energized.

current-carrying metal surfaces. This

bonding creates a path with such low

The neutral/ground bus

impedance (resistance) that fault currents

The ground wires attach to a neutral/ground

zip along it, quickly tripping breakers or

bus bar, which is itself bonded to the metal

fuses and interrupting power. Contrary to

panel via a main bonding jumper. If there's a

popular misconceptions, the human body

ground fautt in the house, the main bonding

The smaller copper wire at the top

runs to a ground rod; the thicker copper wire below and the neutral wire
feed a subpanel within the house.

AVOIDING ELECTRICAL SHOCKS

GROUND FAULTS
CAN KILL
Current flowing
through an unintended
conductor, such as
a person, is called
a qround fault.
Because only a
little current flowing
through your heart
can kill you, ground
faults can be fatal.
Likewise, you can
get badly shocked
by touching an
energized wire or
device with one hand
and touching the
other hand to a
neutral or ground
wire. In this case,
you become part
of the circuit and
current flows
through you .

12

I GROUNDING BASICS

The main ground wire from the

service panel clamps to an a-ft.
rod-grounding electrode (or ground
rod) driven into the earth. It diverts
outside voltage, such as lightning
strikes.

Other hand
water pipe

Connections to cold-water pipes

prevent shocks should the pipes
become inadvertently energ ized.

jumper will ensure that the current can be

safely directed to the ground-away from the
house and the people inside. It is probably
the single most important connection in the
ent ire electrical system.

MAJOR GROUNDING ELEMENTS

The equipment- qroundinq system acts as an expressway for stray current.
By bondlnq conductors or potential conductors, the system provides a low resistance path for fault currents_ The abnormally hiqh amperaqe (current
flow) that results trips a breaker or blows a fuse, dlsconnectinq power to
the circuit.

Also attached to the neutral/ground bus

in the service panel is a large, bare copper
ground wire-the grounding electrode con-

Metal water pipes

Clamps

ductor (GEC)-that clamps to a grounding

electrode (also called a ground rod)-which
rebar in the footing of a foundation. The
electrode's primary function is to divert
lightning and other outside high voltages

Neutral/qround
bus

Main
panel

before they can damage the bu ilding's

electrical system. Although the grounding

Ma in
bondlnq
jumper

electrode system (GES) is connected to the

equipment grounding system at the service
panel, the GES has vi rtually nothing to do

.~

is driven into the earth or attached to steel

r'\
Water heater

Larqe cop per

qround wi re

with reducing shock hazards.

Ground rod

The National Electrical Code (NEC) sizes

grounding electrode conductors based

t--

on the sizes and types of conductors in

the service. Typically, residentia l GECs are
size 6 American wire gauge (6AWG) copper.

1::1

Ground rods are typically sis-in . to 3/4-i n.

copper-clad steel rods 8 ft. to 10 ft. long; the
longer the rod, the more likely it will reach
moist soil, whose resistance is less than that
of dry soil. Be sure to install multiple rod

systems in lightning-prone areas.

Bondinq
Jumper

Clamps

...........

GFeis

Ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCls) are

r..,

sensitive devices that can detect even small

current leaks and shut off power almost
instantaneously. The NEC now requires GFCI
protection on all bathroom receptacles;
kitchen receptacles within 4 ft. of a sink; all
receptacles serving kitchen counters; ali out-

Groun dinq
electrode
condu ctor

-+ 5 .. "Wlrlnq a GFCI Receptacle." on p. 48

Water heater

........ J

door receptacles; all accessible basement or

garage receptacles; and all receptacles near
pools, hot tubs, and the like.

Main
bondinq
jumper

.A.

Groundinq electrode

t~
Cold-water
jumper

1::1

..

GROUNDING BASICS

I 13

EVALUATING THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

efore you start working on your electrical system, you should have a general

knowledge of its condition . Certain situations

CQuid have a big impact on your safety as you
work. Others, such as the electrical requirements of your home, could affect whether
you can add new Circuits or certain kinds of
devices. For your peace of mind and safety,
you may want to hire a licensed electrician or
qualified home inspector to advise you about
what needs to be done. Start by considering
the following aspects of your existing service.

The service
Is there two-wire or three-wire service to

This panel Is so overloaded that It will be

touqh to replace the cover.

Sloppy, unstapled cable can work loose

or be damaqed.

These fuses are too larqe (30 amps)

for the load rat lnq of the circu it wires.
The wires could melt and start a fire.

These scorch marks Indicate electrical

arclnq (electrical leaps between connect ions that have worked loose),

the house? In older homes, electrical service

is often undersize for the demands of a
modern household. If your house has on ly
two cables running from the utility pole- one
hot and one grounded neutral conductor-it
has only 120v service and should be upgraded
to three-wire, 240v service. A lOO-amp,
circuit-breaker service panel is considered
minimal today.

General condition of panels

If you see scorch marks, rust stains,
wires with frayed or cracked insulation, or
condensation on the service panel or damp
conditions around it, the service is unsafe.
Dampness is particularly unsafe, and many
electricians will refuse to work on a panel

Aluminum wiring Widely used in house circuits in the 19605 and 19705, aluminum wiring
expands and contracts excessively, which leads to loose connections, arcing, overheating, and-in
many cases-house fires. The most common symptoms will be receptacle or switch cover plates that
are warm to the touch, flickering lights, and an odd smell around electrical outlets. Once arcing
begins, wire inSUlation deteriorates quickly. An electrician who checks the wiring may recommend
adding COPALUM connectors, CO/ALR-rated outlets and switches, or replacing the whole system.
Aluminum service cable, however, is not a problem when terminated correctly and is still used today.

14 1 EVALUATING THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

until the surrounding dampness is remedied.

Look for me lted plastic around wires, which
could indicate overheating. Make sure the
wire gauges match up with the size of
the breaker (#14 wire on a 1S-amp circuit.
#12 on a 20-amp, and so forth).lf the panel
seems so stuffed with wires that you can
barely close it, you should call a pro to do
an inspection.

Current usage
Installing fuses too big for a circuit to prevent
blown fuses is a fool's bargain; such circuits
could overheat and start a fire. Make sure
that heavy-duty circuits for ranges, dryers,
and air-conditioners have the appropriately
sized breakers installed. Likewise note overloaded receptacles, extension cords under

The ground is clamped to the wrong side

of a dielectric union (coupling) on this copper cold-water pipe, so there's no ground.

Unlike this Installation, all wire splices

must be protected by covered boxes that
are installed in dry locations.

Moisture wlcklnq through this masonry

surface has rusted the fuse box and
compromised electrical safety.

A 30-amp main Is Inadequate for modern

uses; 200amp service would be more
appropriate.

rugs, and the like inside the house. These are

invitations for a fire and a definite sign that
more receptacles are needed in the area.

Grounding
Is the main service panel grounded? Th ere
should be a large grounding wire running
from the panel and clamped to a cold-water
pipe and/or a grounding rod .
Is there fixture and outlet grounding?
Grounding the panel is not enough. For the
entire electrical system to be grounded,
there must be continuous ground wires running to every device in t he house.
If the house has only two-slot receptacles,
the system may be grounded by armor-clad
cab les. Test the receptacles by inserting the
probe of a voltage tester into the short slot
and touch the other to the mounting sc rew.
(Make sure it's not covered with paint.) If the

Arcing

tester lights, you should install a grounded

receptacle. Otherwise, consider upgrading

When nails puncture wires or electrica l con-

the circuit. If there are three-slot receptacles, use a receptacle analyzer (p. 24)

nections are loose or cor roded, electricity

can arc (jump) between points and cause

to check whether the plugs are grounded

fires. The NEC now requi res arc-fault circuit

interrupter (AFCt) protection for all1S-amp

and polarized.

and 20-amp bedroom circuits. AFCls detect

minute fluctuations in current associated

with arcing and de-energize the ci rcuits
before a fire can start. Installing AFCI breakers is essentialty the same as installing GFCI
circuit breakers.

EVALUATING THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

115

CUTTING POWER AT THE PANEL

lways shut off the power to an outlet

before working on

it~and

then test with

an electrical tester to be sure there's no cur-

breaker's switch into the off position O.

The breaker switch should click loudly into

rescrewed so that current resumes flowing

place: If it doesn 't, flip it again until you hear

cuits are controlled by cartridge fuses, pull

through it. Remove the fuse. Likewise, if cir-

rent present . Because individual devices such

a loud click. (A breaker that won't snap into

the cartridge or cartridge block out of the

as receptacles, switches, and fixtures can

place may be worn out or defective and

give false readings if they are defective or

incorrect ly wired, the only safe way to shut

should be replaced by an electrician.)

If your home has a fuse panel instead,

panel G.
In any case, once you've cut off the power,

off the electricity is by flipping a breaker in

remove the fuse that controls the circuit 0

and tape a warning sign to the panel cover.

the service panel or subpanel.

Turning off the power at a breaker panel
is usually straightforward. After identifying
the breaker controlling the circuit, push the

16 1 CUTTING POWER AT THE PANEL

shut the panel cover and tape a sign to it,

Partially unscrewing a fuse is not a solution,

because the fuse body is still in contact with
the socket and possibly could be jiggled or

telling others to stay out

0 . otherwise,

someone not aware of the situation could

flip the switch on, energizing the circuit
you're working on .

TESTING WITH A NEON TESTER

hen using a neon tester, hold the insu-

lated part of the tester, and insert its

probes into the receptacle slots. To test a

three-slot receptacle, first insert the probes

into the hot (short) and neutral (long) slots

O.

If the tester light does not glow, insert one

probe into the hot slot and the other probe
into the round ground slot. If there's current

present. the tester wi ll light up O. Next, insert

one probe into the neutral slot and the other
into the ground slot. Here, the tester will glow

only if there is current and the hot and neutral wires have been reversed

O.

If the tester does not light up for any of

these three combinations, there's probably
no voltage present. However, if the recep-

tacle is faulty or a wire is loose, the previous

tests may not detect vo ltage actually present
in the outlet box. To be certain, unscrew the
receptacle cover plate and the two screws
holding the receptacle to the outlet box. Pull
the receptacle out from the outlet box, being
careful not to touch bare wires, receptacle
screw terminals, or metal outlet boxes .
Then apply tester probes to the bare wire
ends on both sides of the receptacle and
to the gold and silver screw terminals

O.

Finally, if the out let box is metal. touch one

probe to the hot wire/screw and the other
probe to the metal box O . If the tester
doesn't glow during these tests, the power
is off.

WARNING
~.,,7

To avoid shock, never hold

the tester probes by their
bare tips. Always use the
insulated shafts.

WARNING
"". .~ Test the tester first.
No matter what kind
of tester you're using,
test it on a circuit that
you know is hot to
make sure the tester
is working properly.

TESTING WITH A NEON TESTER

117

TESTING WITH AN INDUCTANCE TESTER

n inductance tester is a popular battery-operated

voltage tester that is reliable, inexpensive, and fits

in a shirt pocket. tts t ip glows when touched to a hot

(energized) screw terminal or receptacle slot. Each time
you use an inductance tester-or any voltage tester-first
test its accuracy on a receptacle that you know is hot O .

After shutting off the power at the panel, first insert

the tester tip into the short (hot) slot of a receptacle

O.

If the tester tip does not glow, there is probably no voltage present. To be sure, next insert the tester tip into
the r eceptacle's long (neutral) slot

O . This second

insertion should protect you in case the receptacle was

incorrectly wired.
If you need to remove the receptacle-say, to replace itremove its cover. Then, being careful not to touch the sides
of the receptacle, unscrew the two mounting screws holding the receptacle to the outlet box. (If the box is metal,
avoid touching it, too.) Grasp the mounting straps and
gently pull the receptacle out of the box. First touch the
tip of the tester to the hot (black) wire or the gold screw
terminal

0 , then touch the tip to the white (neutral) wire or

sil ver screw term inal

O. If the tester tip does not glow, it's

safe to handle the receptacle and the wires feeding it.

An inductance tester will often glow when its tip is merely
near a hot wire-that is, it can "read" current through a
wire's insulation . Thus you can sometimes detect electrical
current at a switch or fixture without removing the outlet
cover

O.

~ For more on testlnq switches and Uqht fixtures.

see Chapters 3 and 4 .

TRADE SECRET
Using an inductance tester is far safer
than using a two~pronq neon tester because
it's possible to get shocked by touching the
bare probes of neon testers.

ls i TESTING WITH AN INDUCTANCE TESTER

TESTING WITH AN INDUCTANCE TESTER

I 19

OOLS &
ATERIALS
Y

OU OON'T NEEO A LOT OF expensive tools to wire a house successfully. And there's little uniformity
amonq the tools electricians prefer. Some
pros carry a dozen different pliers and wire
strippers In their tool belts, whereas others
streamline their movements and save time
by uslnq the fewest tools possible. This
chapter Introduces the basic tools and
materials you'll need and a few of the basic

20

techniques you'll perform repeatedly. All

materials should bear the Underwriters'
Laboratory (ULI stamp, which Indicates
that a component meets the safety standards of the electrical Industry.
The first test of any tool Is to fit your
hand comfortably; the second, that It feels
solid and well made. Better tools tend to
be a bit heftier and cost more.

...
-oo
...

ELECTRICAL .~

Combination wire
stripper/crimper
Offset

screwdrivers

I 21

 OQ

HAND TOOLS

Retractable tape measure

Phillips-head
screwdrivers

Torpedo level

Drywall

7-ln-'
tool
(useful
to free
device
plates
encased
in paint)

cable stripper (p. 202); it's

pliers can grasp and pull wire in tight spaces.

use a

These pliers can loop wire to fjt around

vastly superior to the old method of using a

Manufacturers now make tools in va rious

receptacle and switch screws. A large pair

hacksaw and diagonal cutters.

sizes; to fit everyone from the largest male

can also loosen and remove knockouts in

to the most petite female. Here again, don't

metal outlet boxes. Diagonal-cutting and

Other useful tools

scrimp on quality.

end-cutting pliers can cut wires close in

No two electrician's tool belts will look the

tight spaces; end cutters (sometimes

same, but most contain a tape measure,

Pliers and strippers

called nippers) also pull out staples easily.

flashlight. smaillevet, hammer, Speed

Lineman's pliers are the workhorse of an

A multipurpose or combination stripping tool

Square, and a large felt-tipped marker. In

electrician's toolbox. They can cut wire, hold

is used to strip individual wires of insulation,

the course of a wiring job, you may need

wires fast as you splice them, and twist out

cut wire, crimp connections, and quickly loop

severa l sizes of slot-head and Phillips-head

box knockouts. Needle-nose (long-nose)

wire around screw terminals.

A cable ripper (see p. 21) strips the plastic
sheathing from Romex cable without
harming the insulation on the indi vid ual
wires inside. Many pros use a utility knife to
strip sheathing, but that takes
practice and a light touch

A comb ination strippinq tool not onlv cuts

and strips wire but also crimps connectors,
cuts small machine screws, and more.

22

Roto~Split

II hand tools should have insulated

handles and fjt your hand comfortably.

HAND TOOLS

screwdrivers, plus an offset screwdriver and

a nut driver.
Fish tape is used to run cable behind finish surfaces and puJl wire through conduit.
A fish tape is invoked in almost every old
wiring how-to book on the market. Modern-day pros, however, swear by a pulling

to avoid nicking the

grip, also called a swivel keJlum (p. 132).

insulation of individual

For remodel work, you may need a plaster

wires. To strip armored cable,

chisel, flat bar, and a drywaJl saw.

!i

POWER TOOLS

Uy power tools that are appropriate to

Drill bits

Rotary cutter

your strength and to the task at hand.

Spade bits cut quickly, but tend to snap in

Using slightly different bits, a rotary (utter

More powerful tools tend to be heavier and

hard wood. For this reason most elect ri-

ca n cut through plaste r or drywall to create

harder to manage; and for wiring, they're

cians prefer auge r bits. Self-feeding chipper

box openings. Typically, dr ywallers install

often overki ll. If possible, test-drive a friend's

bits drill doggedly through hard, old wood

panels over installed out let boxes, then use a

power too l before buying your own.

but won't last long if they hit nails. A 7/ s-in .

Greenlee Nai l EaterTMbit is you r best bet

box; th is method is much quicker than hand-

if old lumber is nail infe sted.

cutting ope nings beforehand. Set the tool's

Drills
A liz-in. right-angle drill allows you to fit t he
drill head between studs or joists and dri ll

rotary cutter to trim around the outside of a

depth to avoid nickin g wires.

Reciprocat ing saw

perpendicular to the face of the lumber.

A reciprocating saw is indispensable for most

Cordless power tools

-+ see
To see a ricJht-an9le drill In a ction,
p. 177.

remodeling jobs, whethe r to cut box open-

Cordless dri lls and saws enable you to keep

Buy a drill with a clutch. Unless there's

ings in plaster or to notch framing. Choose

working when the powers is off or not yet

a blade that's appropriate for the materia l

connected. Th ey don't need an extension

you're cutting: coarser teeth for cutting

cord and won 't electrocute you if you inad-

a clutc h to disengage the motor, a drill bit

wood, finer for plaster and metal. Special

vertently drill or cut into a live wire. Cord less

that suddenly jams or lodges against a nail

bi metal remodel blades can cut through

reciprocating saws can cut anything from

shan k, could cause the body of the tool to

occasiona l nails without dest roying the blade.

plaster lath to studs.

torque powerfully and thus could injure you.

Auqer bit
1/2-ln. rlqht-anqle drill

Spade bit

Reciprocating saw

Rot ary cutter

POWER TOOLS

I 23

ELECTRICAL TESTERS

esting t o see if a ci rcuit or device is

energized is crucial to sa fet y and

correct wiring. There are several to choose

from, and some per form multiple funct ions.

Neon voltage testers

Neon vol t age testers are inexpensive
and widely ava ilable, but there's a danger
of touching th e bare metal probes and
gett ing shocked. Better neo n t esters have
insul at ed handles. To use th is too l, insert
the probes into the recept acle slots or
touch them to the screw t ermin als or t o
a met al out let box to see jf the un it is
hot (energized).

Some c:ommon elec:trlcal testers. A c:Jrc:uit analyzer (top) shows problems In the wirinq of a
3-pronqed pluq . Test whether an outlet Is enerqized with a neon voltaqe tester (left) or check
for power with an induc:tanc:e tester (riqht).
Dlqltal multlmeters
provide prec:Jse
readlnq s In multiple
scales.

Plug-In circuit analyzers

Plug-in ci rcuit analyzer s can be used only
with three-hole recept acles. but they Quickly
tell you jf a ci rcuit is co rrectly grounded

Solenoid voltaqe
testers don't require
batteries to qlve a
readinq.

and, if not. what the probl em is. Different

lig ht combi nat ions on the tester ind ica te
various wiring problems, such as no ground
and hot and neutral reversed. They're quite
handy for quick home inspections.

Solenoid voltage testers

Solenoid voltag e testers (often called wig-

gies) t est pola rity as well as AC voltage.

They also t est DC voltage from 100v t o
600v. Most models vibrat e and lig ht a bulb
when current is present. Solenoid t ester s
don't use batteries, so readings ca n't
be compromised by low battery power.
However, because of their low im pedance,
solenoid test ers will trip ground-fault
Ci rcuit interrupters (G FC ls).

Inductance testers
Inductance detectors provi de a reading
without directly touch ing a conductor.
They often allow you to detect elec trica l
currents without having to remove cove r
plates and expose receptacles or swit ches.
Touch the tool's tip to an out let, a fix t ure
sc rew, or an electr ical cord. If the tip glows

24 1 ELECTRICAL TESTERS

red, it means th ere's voltage prese nt.

Inductance tester s re ly on battery power.

Multlmeters
A multimeter, as the name suggest s, offers
precise readings in multiple sca les, which
you select beforehand. Some models are
eve n autoranging, meaning that they select
th e co rrect scale for you. Extremely sensit ive, mult imeters can detect minuscule
amounts of vol tage. Better models te st
AC and DC vol tag e, resist ance, contin uity,
capacitance, and freq uency.

Continuity tester
In addi t ion to vol t age testers, get a continu it y t est er to test wi re run s and co nnector s f or short circuit s or other wiring fl aws.
And be su re to do all you r testing before a
circ uit is conn ect ed to power.

A c:ontinuity tester enables you to determine

whether an elec:trical device or lenqth of wire
Is defect ive.

r.

!i

CHOOSING ELECTRICAL BOXES

here is a huge selection of boxes, varying

by size, shape, mounting device, and

Sinqle+qang
plastic

Doubleqang plastiC

Trlpleganq plastic
"T~

-- .

composition . But of all the variables to consider

,\ '_"

when choosing boxes, size (capac ity) usually

1.

trumps the others. Correctly sized boxes are

required by Code and faster to wire because you
don't have to struggle to fit wires and devices.

.~

Box capacity
The most common shape is a single-gang box.
A single-gang box 3 112 in. deep has a capacity of
roughly 22V2 cu. in. ; enough space for a sing le
device (receptacle or switch), three 12-2 w/grd
cables, and two wire connectors. Doub le-gang
boxes hold two devices; triple-gang boxes hold

t
Single-gang
metal

three devices. Remember: Everything that takes

up space in a box must fit without crampingdevices, cable wires, wire connectors, and cable

Single-gang adjustable with

(orange) snap-on data ring

Double-gang adjustable

clamps- so follow NEC recommendations for the

maximum number of conducto rs per box .
You can get the capacity you need in a
number of ways . Some pros install shallow
four-squares (4 in. by 4 in. by

1112 in. deep)

throughout a system because such boxes are

versatile and roomy. If a location requires a
single device, pros simply add a mud-ring cove r.
Because of their shallow depth, these boxes
can also be installed back to back within a
standard 2x4 wall. Th is allows you to keep even
back-to -back switch boxes at the same height
from one room to the next. Shallow pancake

Single gang boxes come in three sizes,

18 cu. in., 20.4 cu. in. and 22.5 cu. in.

boxes (41n. in diameter by 1/2 in. deep) are

Throw a single or double gang mud

(plaster) ring on a 4-ln. box and It's
hard to overfill.

commonly used to flush-mount light fixtures.

BOX FILL WORKSHEET'

Metal vs. plastic boxes

Metal boxes are sturdy and are available in more
sizes than are plastic boxes. Some metal boxes
ca n be interlocked for la rger capacity. Also, metal boxes are usually favored for mounting ceiling
fixtures because steel is stronger than plastic. If
Code requires steel conduit. armored cable (BX),
or MC cable, you

must use steel boxes. All metal

boxes must be grounded.

Item
#14 conductors exiting box
#12 conductors exiting box
#10 conductors ex iting box
#8 conductors exiting box
#6 conductors exiting box

Size (cu. In.)

Number

Total

2.00
2.25
2.50
3.00
5.00

Largest grounding device;

count onl y one
Devices; two times connected
conductor size
Internal clamps; one based on
largest w ire present
'Table based on NEC 370-16(b) and adapted with permission f rom Redwood Kardon, DouQlas Hansen,
and Mike Casey, Code Check: Electrical (2005, The Taunton Press)_

CHOOSING ELECTRICAL BOXES

I 25

CHOOSING ELECTRICAL BOXES (CONTINUED)

The screw on the
side of an adjustable
box enables you to
raise or lower the
face of the box to
make It flush to
the finish wall.

For most other installations, plastic is king.

(Plastic boxes may be PVC, fiberglass, or thermoset.) Electricians use far more plastic boxes
because they are less expensive. Also, because
they are nonconductive, they're quicker to
install because they don 't need to be grounded.
However, even if a box doesn't need to be
grounded, all electrical devices inside must be
grounded by a continuous ground. Another reason to buy plastic: Box volumes are stamped on
the outside.

A remodel box
doesn' t mount to a
stUd. Instead, a pair
of ear s flips up at the
turn of a screw and
clamps the box to
the wall.

Cut-in boxes
The renovator's ma instay are cut-in boxes
because they mount directly to finish surfaces.
These boxes are indispensab le when you want
to add a device but don't want to destroy a large
section of a ceiling or wall to attach it to the
framing. Most cuHn boxes have plastic ears that
keep them from falling into the wall cavity; what
vary are the tabs or mechanisms that hold them
snug to the back side of the walt: screw-adjustable ears, metal-spring ears, swivel ears, or
bendable metal tabs (Grip-Lok is one brand).

~ For Information on Installlnq remodel boxes,

CUT-IN REMODEL BOXE"S_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __

see p. 194.
Single-gang
with Grlp-Lok
tab

WARNING

Single-gang
with swivel ears

Single gang
with screwadjustable
Goof ring

All cut-in boxes, whether

plastic or metal, must
contain cable clamps inside
that fasten cables securely.
That is, it's impossible
to staple cable to studs
and joists when they are
covered by finish surfaces,
so you need clamps to keep
the cables from getting
tugged or chafed.

Double-gang
with swivel ears

26 1 CHOOSING ELECTRICAL BOXES

Lipped round box

with metal sprinq ears

r.

!i

INSTALLING NEW WORK BOXES

here are few set rules about locating

~ For more about locatlnq boxes,

see p. 184.

boxes. In general-use rooms, set the

bottom of outlet boxes 12 in. above the

Mount boxes so that they' ll be flush with

subf loor-w hich you ca n approximate by

resting a box atop a hammer held on end

O.

In hous ing for disabled occupants, outlet box

bottoms should be a minimum of 18 in. above
the subfloor.
For outlets over kitchen and bath coun ters, set box bottoms 42 in. from the finished floor, so they 'l! end up 8 in. above
counters and 4 in. above a standard 4-in.high bac ksplash . Locate wall switches on the
lock side of a door (opposite the hinges).

finish surfaces . Most boxes have tabs or

gauge marks stamped on the side to indi cate different surface thicknesses. If that's
not the case, hold a sc rap of the finish
material-for example, sis-i n. drywall-next
to the front edge of the box as a depth

local building codes

require them to
be set at a certain
height.

gauge. Unless you're installing nail-in boxes,

use screws to mount the boxes so you can
make adjustments if you need to

O. As

noted elsew here, adjustable boxes can be

t wea ked after the dr ywall is up.

INSTALLING NEW WORK BOXES

I 27

REMOVING KNOCKOUTS
nee you've mounted boxes, you'll need to remove

the appropriate number of box knockouts and install

cable connectors (ctamps). Single-gang, new construction
plastic boxes don't need clamps: Simply strike a screwdriver handle with the heel of your hand to drive out the
knockout. To remove a metal -box knockout, jab it with the
nose of needle-nose pliers to loosen it
plier's jaws to twist it free

0 , then use the

O.

Use a screwdriver to remove a plastic -box knockout.

28 1 REMOVING KNOCKOUTS

r.

!i

MOUNTING DEVICES
Heavyweight bar for new work
where there is access to framing.

Heavyweight remodel bar Is passed through

an opening in the ceiling and adjusted in place.

Lightweight bars should used only for a lightweight

fixture such as simple overhead light.

he type of mounting bracket. bar, or tab you use depends on

whether you're mounting a box to finish surfaces or structural

members. When you're attaching a box to an exposed stud or joist.

you're engaged in new construction, or new work (as distinguished
from old work, or remodel work), even if the house is old. Newwork
boxes are usually side-na iled or face-naited through a bracket; nailon boxes have integral na il holders. The mounting bracket for adjustable
boxes is particularly ingenious. Once attached to framing, the box depth
can be screw-adjusted until it's flush to the finish surface.
Adjustable bar hangers enable you to mount boxes between joists
and studs; typically, hange r s adjust from 14 in. to 22 in. Boxes mount
to hangers via threaded posts or, more simply, by being screwed to the
hangers. Bar hangers vary in thickness and strength, with heavier strap
types favored to support ceiling fans and heavier fixtures.

A mountlnq bar Is screwed Into the celllnq Joists.

MOUNTING DEVICES

I 29

 C fS

CABLE & CONDUIT

NONMETALLIC
SHEATHED CABLE

~:::::~- GrOUnd

Black or red
(usually hot) - - - - - ' - - - - - - --;;;;f!"

12/2

I
Whlte----'
(usually neutral)

The number of wires and their

gauges are marked on the jacket.

ost modern house wiring is flexible

cable, but you may find any-or all-

of the wiring types described here in older

Some old houses still have knob-and-tube

wiring, which doesn't necessarily need to be
replaced. Have It tested to make sure It's
still in qood shape.

Remember that you can wire 15-amp

Green or bare (un insulated) wires are ground

circuits with 12-gauge wire, but you can't

wires, which must be connected continuously

use 14-gauge wire for 20-amp circuits.

throughout an electrica l system.

Because most of the wiring in a residence

houses. Inside cables or conduits are

Metal-clad (MC) cable is often specified

individual wires, or conductors, that vary

where wiring is exposed. Some codes

in thickness according to the load (amperage)

sti ll allow armored cable (AC), but that's

wires: two insulated wires (one black and

they carry. Here's a quick overview.

increasingly rare.

one white) plus a ground wire, usually

Cable

Knob-and-tube

Nonmetallic sheathed cable (NM or Romex)

Knob-and-tube wiring is no longer installed,

wires-for example , 240v circu its and three-

is by far the most common flexible cable.

but there's still plenty of it in older houses. If

or four-way switches.

is 120v service, most cables will have three

uninsulated. Other colors are employed

(overed with a flexible thermoplastic sheath-

its sheathing is intact and not cracked, it may

ing, Romex is easy to route, cut, and attach.

still be serviceable. You may even be able

Conduit

Cable designations printed on the sheathing

to extend it, but have an electrician do the

Conduit may be specified to protect exposed

and the sheathing color indicate the gauge

work. Knob and tube is eccentric, requiring

wiring; it is common ly thin-wall steel (electri-

and the number of conducting wires inside.

experience and a skilled hand.

cal metallic tubing; EMT) , aluminum, or poly-

-+ See "Readtnq a Cable:' on the fac lnq paqe.

Circuit wiring

serves as its own ground. Apart from service

Copper is the preferred conductor for

ent rances, conduit is seldom used in home

Most of the NM cable used for a standard

30

when a hookup calls for more than two

vinyl chloride (PVC) plastic. Metal conduit

15-amp lights-and-outlets ci rcuit is 14/2 w/grd.

residential circuit wiring. Aluminum cable

wiring. When connected with weather-tight

For a 20-amp circuit, use 12-gauge cable.

is frequently used at service entrances, but

fittings and boxes, conduit can be installed

outdoors.

Three-way switc hes are wired with 14/3 or

it is not recommended for branch circu its.

12/3. The third conductor is red. Either the

Individual wires with in a cable or conduit are

red or the black wi r e can be hot, depending

color coded. White or light gray wires are

on the switch position .

neutral conductors. Black or red wires denote

-+ switches,
For more on three- and four-way
see p. 51.

hot, or load-carrying, conductors.

I CABLE & CONDUIT

~ For more on 240v circuits. see

"Appliances," pp. 210-221.

CABLE AND CONDUIT

FOR SERVICE PANELS

Type-SER Is used between

panels and subpanels in dry,

protected areas.

Schedule- 40 PVC conduit

is for damp crawls paces
or underqround.

flexible conduit Is used

in areas that are dry,
but need hard-shell
protection.

READING A CABLE
Cables provide a lot of information in
the abbreviations stamped into their
sheathing-for example, NM indicates
nonmetallic sheathing, and UF (for
underground feeder) can be buried.
The size and number of individual conductors inside a cable are also noted:
12/2 w/grd or 12-2 WIG, for examp le,
indicates two insulated 12AWG wires
plus a ground wire. Cable stamped
14/3 WiG has three 14AWG wires plus
a ground wire. (The higher the number,
the smaller the wire diameter.) The
maximum voltage, as in 600v, may
also be indicated.
Individual wires within cable have
codes, too. T (thermoplastic) wire is
intended for dry, indoor use, and W
means wet; thus TW wire can be used
in dry and wet locations. H stands for
heat resistant . N, for nylon jacketed,
indicates a tough wire than can be
drawn through conduit without
being damaged.
Finally, make sure the Romex cable
is marked NM -B. Cable without the final
B has an old-style insulation that is not
as heat resistant as NM-B cable.

ELECTRICAL CABLE

Type-NM (Romex)

Type-Uf (under Qround)

Metal clad (Me).

The sliver wire in the AC cable is a bondinq wire, not a qround . In the
is qround, the white is neutral, and the red and black are hot.

Me cable.

the qreen wire

CABLE & CONDUIT

I 31

CABLE CLAMPS & CLIPS

t's important to sec ure cable as you run it and

to protect it from puncture or be ing acci dent ly

severed. It's also essen tial t o make sure ca ble is

tig htl y secured into boxes.

Clamps
Clamps secure cable to boxes to protect
connections in side th e box so wire splices
or connectio ns to devices cannot get yanked
apart or ot herwise co mprom ised. Eve ry wi ring
system -whether nonmetallic (Romex), Me, or
conduit - has clamps (con nectors) specific to that
system. Cable clamps in metal boxes also keep
wires from being nicked by burrs created when
metal box knockouts are removed. (Use a screwdr iver to start knockout s and li neman's plier s to
twist them free-or a pair of heavy-duty need lenose pl ie rs for both tasks.)
The exception t o th is ru le is si ngle-ga ng plastic boxes. If frami ng is ex posed (new co nst ructio n) and cable ca n be stapl ed wi th in 12 in.
Romex cable connectors. From bottom to top: plastic push-In conne<:tor, two-cable
hit-lock connector, 3/8 -ln. NM clamp with locknut, metal box wit h Internal clamps.
Cable connectors are set In box knockouts to prevent wires from wearlnq aqainst
sharp edqes.

of the box, Code doesn' t require ca ble clamps

in a single-gang plas tic box. How eve r, twogang plastiC boxe s must have cab le clampstypically, a plas tiC tension clip that keeps cables
from bei ng pu lled out. And, as noted in th e
pr eceding chapter, all cu t- in boxes must cont ain
cable clamps.
Two-pi ece loc knut connectors

are still the

most common cable clamp, but professio na l

elect ricians who ar e raci ng the clock swea r by
plastiC snap-i n cable connectors

0 . whic h seat

instant ly an d grip NM cable tight.

~ For more on po.'t'onl,", box, p. 27.

reduce the tedium of screwing wires

to terminals, attaching devices to
boxes, putting on cover plates, and
connecting myriad other items. But
always tighten cable clamps by hand
to avoid overtightening them and
damaging the incoming wires.

32 1CABLE CLAMPS & CLIPS

SECURING CABLE TO FRAMING

he quickest way to secure cable is

to staple it. The trick is to staple it

correctly-flat and not so tight that the

sheathing is squeezed against the framing .
Staples should be snug but not too tight.
Use enough staples to secure cable, remem bering that code requires staples at least
every 54 in. Use particular care when
stapling cable overhead O. Avoid making a
sharp bend immediately after a staple, and
leave yourself enough slack around boxes.

When a large number of cables run into a

single box, it can be difficult to staple them
within the 12 in. requi r ed by Code. Here's
where cable clips come in handy. Simply nail
or screw the clip to the stud where the box is

attached

a.Thread the cables into the clip

for a neat, organized box O.

There are severa l styles of cable clips
with different capacities . Avoid exceeding
the capacity of the clip; it shou ld hold the
cab le snugly but be loose enough to dissipate heat.

ACCORDING TO CODE
Cables should be fastened to
framing at least every 54 in.
Cables must also be fastened
within 12 in. of a box.

Another style of cable clip. It holds the cable

near enouqh to the box but out of harm's way.

SECURING CABLE TO fRAMING

I 33

STRIPPING CABLE WITH A UTILITY KNIFE

any electricians use a utility knife to slit and remove

NM cable sheathing, but it requires a light touch that

takes a lot of practice. Typically, pros hold the blade at a low

angle to the cable and lightly run the blade tip down the
middle of the cable and over the bare ground wire inside.
Alternatively, one can score the front and back face of the
sheathing with diagonal slits
and slide it off

and then yank the sheathing

O.

Once the sheathing is off, tear off the kraft paper covering the bare ground wires

O. Then tuck the cables back into

the box until you're ready to wire the receptacle or switch.

34 1 STRIPPING CABLE WITH A UTILITY KNIFE

Cable strippers remove the wire's jacket without damaqinq

the conductor insulation.

STRIPPING CABLE WITH A CABLE RIPPER

o remove sheathing with less risk of

nicking wire in sulation, use a cable rip-

Because cable clamps grip sheathing-not

the box is metal, first bond the cable's

per to slit the sheathing along its length O.

individual wires-there should be at least

112 in . of sheathing sti ll peeking out from

clip or a green grounding screw O. Once

Because the ripper's tooth is intentionally

dull (so it won't nick wire insulation), it usu'

under cable clamps when you're done. If

you didn't tighten cable clamps earlier,

the wires are stripped and the box is

grounded, fold the rest of the wires back

ally takes several pulls to slit the sheathing

do so now.

completely. Once that's done, pull back the

If there is only one cable entering a box,

sheathing and the kraft paper. You can snip

simply cut individual wires to length (typi-

both off using diagonal cutters O.

cally, 8 in.) and tuck them into the box. If

ground wire to the box, using a grounding

into the box until you're ready to wire

switches and outlets O.

STRIPPING CABLE WITH A CABLE RIPPER

I 3S

 r.A

S5

CHOOSING WIRE
ire comes in several gauges meant for

WIRES
AND WIRE
CONNECTORS

different amp circuit s. Th e higher the

gauge, the smaller the wire. Larger wires ca n

carry greater amperage, just as a larger pipe
ca n carry greater wate r volume. If you use

6-gauge stranded
60 amps: central
air-conditioners
and furn aces

too small a wire, the resistance (measured

in ohms) is too great and the wire can melt.
causing a house fire. That's why it's important to use the right gauge wi re for the load.

Wire connectors
Wire connect ors, sometimes called by the
popular brand Wire-Nut , twist onto a group
of like-colored wires to splice them together
10 gauge stranded

and ensure a solid mec hanical connect ion.

The importance of solid connections bet ween

30 amps: range and

central air-conditioners

spliced wires (or between wires and devices)

can't be overst ated. If wi res work loose, electriCity ca n leap the gaps between them and
cause a house fire. Wire connectors are sized
according to the number of wi res and/o r wire
gauge they ca n accommodate; each size is
color coded.

12 gauge

20 amps: lights,
20-amp receptacles

14-qauqe bare
coppe r ground wi re

14 gauge

15 amps: lights. average

duty receptacles

Twist-on wire connectors are color coded to fit wires of different sizes. Green connectors, used to splice ground wires, have a hole In the cap that faci litates running a bare
qround wire to a device or a metal box.

36 1CHOOSING WIRE

A divided pouch transforms a S-Qal. bucket

Into a portable hardware store of wire
connectors, cable clamps, screws, staples,
and other small Items.

STRIPPING & SPLICING WIRES

ypically, electricians first splice the

ground wires, which are usually bare

copper. (If they're green insulated wires,

first strip approximately 3/4 in. of insulation off their ends.) If you use standard
wire connectors, trim the ground wires and
butt their ends together, along with a 6-in.
pigtail, which you'll connect later to the
green ground screw of a receptacle. Howeve r,
many pros prefer to twist the ground wires
together, leave one ground long, and thread

it through the hole in the end of a special

wire connector

O. Splicing hot and neutral

wire groups is essentially the same. Trim hot

wires to the same length

O. Strip 3/4 in. of

in sulation off the cable wires and the pigtail

0 , and use lineman's pliers to twist the wires

O . Then

screw on a wire connector

O.

When all the wire groups are spliced, gently fold the wires-rather like an accordion
fold-and push them into the back of the box,
where they'll be safe from drywall saws and
naiis O .

TRADE SECRET
Unless the manufacturer's
instructions say otherwise,
whenever you splice solid wires
with a wire connector, twist the
wires together before you twist the
connector into place. This guarantees a solid connection between
the wires should the wire connector
come loose.

STRIPPING & SPLICING WIRES

I 37

ECEPTACLES
SWITCHES
R

ECEPTACLES AND SWITCHES

are the most-used electrical devices
In a house. They're lIenerally reliable and offer a lonll life, but they are
often replaced when they become cracked
or outdated or, eventually, cease to work.
Fortunately, replaclnll them Is stralllhtforward and safe If you first shut off the
power to the circuits that feed them-and
test with a voltalle tester to be sure that
power Is, In fact, off. This chapter shows

38

you how to sefely remove receptacles and

switches, how to use a continuity tester
to see If devices are defective, and how to
Install new receptacles or switches.
Wlrlnll an electrical device Is considered
part of finish wlrlnll-also called the trlmout stalle-when finish walls are In place and
painted. At the trim-out stalle, everythlnll
should be ready so that the electrician
needs only a pair of strippers and a screwdriver or screw lIun.

39

CHOOSING RECEPTACLES & SWITCHES

he difference in quality from one receptacle or

switch to another can vary greatly. Over the life of

the device, the difference in price is trivial, but the difference in performance can be sUbstantial. For this reason,
buy quality. As you can see in the top photo at right.
cheap receptacles are pretty much all plastic, their thin
metal mounting tabs will distort easily, and they tend to
crack if subjected to heavy use.
On the other hand, quality receptacles and switches
tend to have heavier nylon faces and may be reinforced
with metal support yokes that reinforce the back of
the devices.
Anot her telling detail is how wires are attachedwhet her they 're screwed to terminals on the side of the
device, inserted into the back of the device and held by
internal clamps (back-wired), or some combination of
the two. Again, better quality devices have better mech-

Better quality receptacles and switches are usually heftier and more
reliable. The quality receptacle on the right has a nylon face and its
back is reinforced with a brass yoke.

anisms for gripping wire.

~ For more on back-wired devices. see p. 42.

Most household receptacles are rated for 15-amp

circuits and wired with 14AWG or 12AWG wire. The
National Electric Code (N EC) specifies 20-amp protection
for kitchen appliance, garage, and workshop circuits.
The NEC specifies ground-fault circuit interrupter
(GFCI) protection for many locations, including bathroom, outdoor, and kitchen-counte r receptac les, so
there are also 15-amp and 20-amp GFCI receptacles.
In addit ion , you can obtain va rious kinds of specialty
15-amp receptacles , including childproof models that
require an adult's grip to uncover them, weatherproof
receptacles that combine cover and receptacle in an

Switches (from left) : single-pole, three-way, four-way.

integral unit. recessed receptacles in which clock wires

can be hidden, and covered floor receptacles. In addition , there are receptacles specifically matched to the

ACCORDING
TO CODE
All bathrooms and kitchens should
have GFCI receptacles. All outdoor
outlets and some garage outlets must
also be GFCls. Your local building code
will have the final say on GFCls.

40

I CHOOSING RECEPTACLES & SWITCHES

Specialty switches (from left): A timer switch, paddle-switch dimmer

with small slide dimmer, linear slide dimmer.

plugs of 30-amp, 40-amp, and 50-amp appli-

POLARIZEDRECEPTACLES~__~====~

______

~==~-=

__

~~

ances. Your electrical supplier can help you

find the right receptacle for your needs.

Matching load ratings

Circuit components must be matched according to their load ratings. That is, a 20-amp

Neutral
slot ----,--t

receptacle must be fed by 12AWG cable,

which is also rated at 20-amps, and protected
by a 20-amp breaker or fuse. A 15-amp receptacle or switch must be fed by 14AWG cable,
which is rated for IS -amps, and protected by

@
screw
(sliver)

NM Cable sheathing is color coded to help

Hot slot

l
~ Hot

-I I I

a I S-amp breaker or fuse.

you correctly match wire size and de vices:
White sheathing denotes 14-gauge wire; yel-

screw
(qold)

Ground
slot

Green - - ' "

grounding
screw

low sheathing, 12-gauge; orange sheathing,

lO -gauge; and so on.

Polarized receptacles
Receptacles, plugs, and
fixtures are polarized so
they can fit together only
one way. A receptacle's gold
screw terminal connects
to hot wires and, internally,
to the hot (narrow) prong
of a polarized plug. The
receptacle's silver screw
terminal connects to neutral
wires and, internally, to the
neutral (wide) prong of a
polarized plug. Finally, the
green ground screw connects
to the ground wire and the
U-shaped grounding prong
of the plug.

15 amp

20 amp

The 20-amp receptacle (at right) has a T-shaped neutral slot so It can receive a
special 20-amp plug in addition to standard 15-amp plugs. But 15-amp receptacles
cannot receive 20-amp plugs. Both receptacles are also polarized, so that only
the large blade of a plug can fit Into the large slot of the receptacle.

RECEPTACLES FOR DIFFERENT LOAD"'S_____________________

50-amp range

30-amp dryer

(250v)

(125/250v)

lS-amp
surge

I I

20-amp
,- duplex

GFCI1S-amp with
20-amp feed-through
lS-amp duplex

CHOOSING RECEPTACLES & SWITCHES

I 41

BACK-WIRED DEVICES

ac k-wiring receptacles or switches is a

faster alternative to wrapping wires around

screw terminals. Back-wired devices have holes

in the back. into which you inse rt stripped wire
ends. But although back-wiring is quicker, many

Many switches qlve

Installers the option
of connectinQ wires
to screw terminals
on the side or of
back-feedlnQ wires
into holes in the back
of the switch body.

electricians-and some local electrical codesconsider it unsafe. especially for receptac les.
Their primary objection is that receptacles'
internal tension clamps are made of thin metal
strips, which can fatigue, leading to loose wi res,
flickering lig ht s. and arci ng. Moreove r, each t ime
users insert or remove plugs, the receptac les
move slightly. which increases the likelihood
of clamp failure. Manufacturers have stopped
making back-wired 20-amp receptacles, so
think tw ice abou t installi ng back-wi red 15-amp
receptacles.
Of course, there's an except ion to every rule.
A high-quality device such as the GFCI receptacle shown in photo

on p. 48 allows you to

loop wi res arou nd its sc r ew terminals or inse rt

wi r es into holes o n the back of the device. Here,

Back-wired switches
are acceptable to
most electrical
codes. Use the strlpplnQ qauQe on the
back of the switch to
determine how much
insulation to strip
from the wire.

back-wiring is acceptable because yo u must

screw down sc rews on either side to tighten
internal clamps that grip the wire and ensure a
solid connection.
Finally, back-wired switches are acceptable to
Code. They r ar ely fail because switches aren't
subjec t to the stresses of inserti ng and removing plugs; thu s wire connections stay solid.
Nonet heless, many pros don't like back-wi r ed
switches because their tension clamps can also
fatigue and loose n. Use a sc rew terminal,
they argue, and you're guarante ed a solid
wi r e connection.

42

I BACK-WIRED DEVICES

After strlpplnQ the

wire end, Insert It
Into a back port/hole
until the wire bottoms, then pull Qently
to make sure that
the device's Internal
clamp has Qripped
the wire securely.

TESTING FOR POWER

o identify the circuit that serves a particular receptac le, insert tester prongs into

the receptacle and have a helper at the service

panel flip breakers until the tester light goes
out. To identify the circuit that serves a particular switch, turn on the fixture it controls and flip
breakers until the light goes out. If that test is
inconclusive or you aren't sure the receptacle or
switch is operable, remove the cover plate and
the two screws holding the device to the box.

wires-may be attached (incorrectly) to

receptacles or switches, in violation of Code.
When testing existing receptacles, switches or
fixtures, test all wires for voltage.

,./

Being careful not to touch screw terminals or

wires with your fingers. put! the receptacle out
of the box. Touch tester prongs to each screw
and to spliced wire groups. Here, an inductance
tester is superior to a two-prong voltage tester
because the inductance tester can usually read
current through wire insulation or a wire
connector.

Before touching a wired receptacle, switch, or

fi xture, use an inductance tester to see If power
Is present.

TESTING fOR POWER

I 43

TWO WAYS TO WIRE A RECEPTACLE

preferred way to wire a midcircuit

receptacle.
A The

he duplex receptacle is the workhorse

of house wiring, because it enables

At the end of a circuit, wires from the

B cable
attach directlv to the receptac le.

Most electricians prefer using pigtails to

An alternate to wiring a midcut receptacle,

using pigtails. (Not recommended).
Cwithout

But this method has detractors, who

argue that in a circuit so wired, if a recep-

connect conductors to midcircuit recep-

you to plug in a variety of energy users at

tacles because it ensures continuous power

tacle upstream fails or a wire comes loose,

locations around the house. Receptacles are

and, if it's necessary to replace the recepta-

receptacles downstream wi ll lose power.

so indispensable to modern life that Code

cle at some future date, there are only three

For this reason, feeding a circuit through a

dictates that no space along a wall in a habit-

pigtails to disconnect. Wiring with pigtai ls is

receptacle is particularly risky if you also

able room should be more than 6 ft. from

shown in the photo

a receptacle and any wall at least 2 ft. wide

must have a receptacle.

~ For more receptacle requirements.
see p. 40.

O.

use back-wired receptacles whose internal

At the end of a circuit. where only one

clamping mechanisms can weaken and

cable feeds an out let. there's no need for

result in loose connections . Moreover, there

pigtails. Just attach incoming wires directly

is a voltage drop of about 1 percent per

to the receptacle as shown in photo

O. As

with pigtail wiring, connect the ground wire

The NEe requires that all conductors (wires)

first, then the neutral, then the hot wire.

flow than do wires. If you have 6 or 10 recep-

be solidly connected to devices such as recep-

tacles daisy-chained in this manner, those

tions are acceptable. In brief, you can use

Route the circuit

through the receptacle

pigtails-short lengths of wire running from

Feeding circuits through receptacles is a wide-

tacies, but several different wire configura-

overheated connections can waste energy

and increase your electricity bill.

wire splices to a device-or attach conductors

spread wiring method because, on the whole,

directly to devices. Using pigtails to connect

it is quicker, requires fewer conductors, and

conductors ensures continuous power down-

results in boxes that are less crowded than

stream, but sometimes, at the end of a run,

those wired with spliced wires and pigtails

for example, it makes sense to connect conductors directly to the device.

44 1 TWO WAYS TO WIRE A RECEPTACLE

receptacle wired in this manner because

receptacles offer more resistance to current

G.

-+ Devices,"
also "Back-Wired
on p. 42.
See

WIRING A DUPLEX RECEPTACLE

middle of a circuit. there will be two

12/2 or 14/2 cables entering the box- one

Loop and install the ground wire to the

receptacle's green grounding screw first.
Place the loop clockwise on the screw

from the power source and the other running

shaft so that when the screw is tightened

downstream to the next outlet. In the se-

down, the screw head will grip-rather than

quence shown here, there are two 12/2 cables

dislodge-the wire

hen a duplex receptacle is in the

because the box houses a 20-amp receptacle.

To ensure continuity downstream, all wire
groups will ha ve been spliced with wire con -

O.

Next. loop and attach a neutral conductor

to a si lver screw terminal. Tighten down the
screw that you don't use to avoid electro-

nectors during the rough-in stage. A pigtail

magnetic interference on radio receivers

from each splice will need to be connected

and the like. Then flip the receptacle over

to a screw termina l on the receptacle.

to access the brass screw terminals on the

other side. If a looped wire end is too wide,

Unless the small tab between screw pairs

has been removed, you need attach only one

use needle-nose pliers to close it

conductor to each side of the receptacle.

Wiring in an orderly way Any habit

that increases your safety is worth adopting.
When connecting wires to devices, most
electricians connect the ground wire first,
then the neutral wire, and then the hot wire.
When disconnecting wires, they reverse the
order: Disconnect the hot first, then the neutral,

O.

then the ground wire. Because the ground

wire offers the lowest impedance path to
ground, it makes sense to leave it connected
as long as possible. Even if you're working on
circuits that are disconnected, as veteran
electricians say, "Treat every conductor as
if it were live and you'll stay alive."

WIRING A DUPLEX RECEPTACLE

I 45

WIRING A DUPLEX RECEPTACLE (CONTINUED)

Screw down the brass screw so that it grips
the hot wire. Pros frequently use screw guns
for this operation, but weekend electricians
should tighten the screw by hand to ensure a
solid connection

O.

Push the wired receptacle into the box by

hand, keeping the receptacle face paral lel to
the wall

O . Then hand-screw the device to the

box. Avoid the temptation to use a screw gun

because it can strip the screw holes in a plastic
box

O. Finally, install a cover plate to protect

the electrical connections in the box and to

prevent someone from inadvertently touching

a bare wire end or the end of a screw terminal.

w:,,~

, II '

TRADE SECRET

It doesn't matter whether you

install three-slot (grounded)
receptacles with the ground slot

up or down-just be consistent
throughout the house.

46 1 WIRING A DUPLEX RECEPTACLE

MAKING RECEPTACLE BOXES FLUSH TO DRYWALL

utlet boxes are frequently installed below

the surface of the drywall. If you're using

adjustable boxes in new work, that's not a problem because you can turn a screw to raise the
box until it's flush with the drywa ll. It's imperative to bring the device flush to the drywall and
to mount it securely. After a plug is inse rted
into the receptacle a few times, the receptacle
moves and the cover plate cracks, which is both
unsightly and unsafe.
If you're using a typical nail-on box, you
can use plastic spacers (often called caterpillars) to build up the level of the receptacle

so its mounting tab is flush to the drywall.

These spacers take up the space between the
mount in g plate on the box and the device, so
the mounting plate can be flush. Break off the
pieces from the strip. This style folds. Insert
the spacer behind the screw tabs.

1;4 in. from the surface. you

must use a "goof ring" (p. 26).

TWO-SLOT RECEPTACLES

Receptacles with two slots (instead of

three) are unqrounded.

Receptacles with only two slots are un'

grounded. Because they are fed by two-wire
cable without a ground wire, they are inherently less safe than three-slot receptacles
fed with a grounded cable. If existing cables
and receptacles are co rrectly wired and in
good condition, most codes allow you to
keep using them. Should you add circuits,
however, Code requires that they be wired
with grounded cable (12/2 w/grd or 14/2
w/grd) and three-slot receptacles.
Replacing a two-slot receptacle with
a GFCI receptacle can be a cost-effective
way to add protection to a two-wire circuit.
Th ere will sti ll not be a ground wire on the
circuit, but the GFCI will trip and cut the
power if it detects a ground fault. You can
wire the GFC I receptacle to protect just that

outlet or that outlet and all outlets down stream (away from the power source).

-+ see
For more on wlrlnq OFCI receptacles.
p. 48.
Note: If one slot of a two-slot receptacle
is longer, the receptacle will be polarized.
That is, a receptacle's gold screw terminal
wi ll connect to a hot wire and, internally, to
the hot (narrow) prong of a polarized twoprong plug. The receptacle's sliver screw
terminal co nn ects to ne utral wi res and,
internally, to the neutra l (wide) prong of a
polarized plug .

~ For more about polarity. see p. 41.

MAKING RECEPTACLE BOXES FLUSH TO DRYWALL

I 47

WIRING A GFCI RECEPTACLE

hen wiring a GFCI receptacle, it's important

to connect incoming wires (from the power

source) to the terminals marked "line" on the

back of the receptacle. Attach outgoing wires (to
outlets downstream) to terminals marked "load."
To distinguish line and load wires during roughin, write each term on small pieces of the cable
sheathing and slip them over the appropriate

wires before folding them into the box.

The GFCI shown here is something of a hybrid
because it allows you to loop stripped wire

ends around the screw terminals Of to leave the

stripped wire ends straight and insert them into

holes in the back of the device-also know n as

back-wiring. In this case, back-wiring is acceptable because you must tighten screws on either
side to engage internal clamps that grip the wire,
thus ensuring a solid connection.
~ For more on back-wired receptacles,

see p. 42.
If the GFCI is going to protect users at a sing le
out let, attach wires to only one set of screw
terminals

O. The

Quality GFCls can be back-wired

or side-wired.

yellow tape across one set of

screws indicates that they are load terminals: If

you are hooking up the device to protect only
a single point of use, leave the tape in place
and connect wires only to the screw terminals
marked "line." After attaching the ground
pigtail, screw down the silver screw to secure
the neutral pigtail.
Connect the hot pigtai l to the brass screw last ,
the n push the device into the box ca refu ll y, handscrew it to the box, and install a cover plate

O.

Feeding the circuit

through a GFel receptacle
If you want a GFCI receptacle to protect the outlet and all outlets downstream, feed the Circuit
through the receptacle. That is, connect incoming
and outgoing cable wires directly to the device,
rather than using pigtails. Again, it's important
to connect incoming wi res to the termina ls
marked "line," and outgoing wires to terminals
marked "load."
~ For more on wlrlnlJ throulJh the receptacle,

see p. 44.

48 1 WIRING A GFCI RECEPTACLE

Connect the hot pigtail last .

Circuits can be fed throuqh

a GFCI receptacle.

WIRING A SPLIT-TAB RECEPTACLE

tandard duplex receptacles have a

small metal tab between the brass screw

terminals, which conducts power to both term inals, even if you connect only a hot wire to just
one terminal. However, jf you break off and re move that tab, you isolate the two terminals and
create, in effect. two single receptacles-each of
which requires a hot lead wire to supply power.
This technique, known as sp lit-tab wiring, is

often used to provide separate circuits from a

single outlet, a configuration commonly used
when connecting a disposal and a dishwasher.
The disposal receptacle is almost always con-

trolled by a switch, which allows you to turn off

the disposal at another location. To supply two
hot leads to a split-tab receptacle, electricians
usually run a 12/3 or 14/3 cable.

~ For more on split-tab circuits, see the drawin,s on pp. 174 and 175.
To create a split-tab receptac le, use needlenose pliers to twist off the small metal tab
between the brass screws

O. Next connect the

bare ground wire to the green grounding screw

on the device and connect the white neutral
wire to a silver screw. If you keep a slight tension on the wires as you tighten each screw,
they'll be less likely to slip off

O.

Flip the receptacle over to expose the brass

screws on the other side, and connect a hot
lead to each brass screw. If you're running 12/3
or 14/3 cable, one hot wire will typically be red
and the other black

O. Finally, push the device

into the box by hand until it's flush and install

the cover plate

O.

Though this 15-amp split-tab receptacle is

fed with 12/3 cable (rated for 20 amps), there's
no danger of the load exceeding the rating of
the receptacle. Because of the configuration
of its slots, the receptacle can receive only a
15-amp plug .

Correctly wired spilt-tab

receptacle.

WIRING A SPLIT-TAB RECEPTACLE

I 49

TESTING A SINGLE-POLE SWITCH

o test a disconnected switch,

attach the tester clip to one screw

or lead wire of the switch and touch

the tester probe (point) to th e other

O. Turn the switch off and on O.

Repeat the process several times. If the

tester doesn't light-or doesn't go off

in either position-the switch is a dud.
Replace it.
Because they're always racing the

clock, many pros will simply replace

a switch or receptacle that's suspect.
But testing a device makes sense for

homeowners. Continuity testers are

inexpensive and easy to use. Testing a

switch can save amateur electrieianswho are more likely to miswire a

device-a trip to the hardware store to
replace a switch that isn't defective.

WARNING
\C.... ." Use continuity testers only
on devices that are not
connected to wiring.

so

I TESTING A SINGLE-POLE SWITCH

Test the tester

Before you start,
make sure the
tester is working
properly. Touch
the point and the
clip of the continuity tester to each
other to be sure
the tool is working.
This completes the
circuit and lights
the tester bulb. If
the bulb doesn't
light, replace the
bulb and/or the
battery or get a
new tester-they're
inexpensive.

TESTING A THREE-WAY SWITCH

hree-way switches allow you

to operate a fixture from two

locations-from the top and bottom

of stairs, for example, or from opposite ends of a room. When testing
a three-way switch, attach the tester
clip to the common term inal and touch
the probe to one of the traveler screw
terminals. The tester should light

O. If

the switch is functioning properly, flip

the switch and the light should turn off

a.Leave the clip in place, touch the

probe to the other traveler screw, and

flip the switch again. If all that works,
the switch is good .
~ See "Closeup: Three-Way Switch,"
on p. 172.

TESTING A FOUR-WAY SWITCH

n addition to its green grounding

screw, a four-way switch has four

screws: two common (dark) screws at

the top, and two traveler (brass) screws

at the bottom

O. To successfully test a

four-way switch, move the test clip and

probe to test all possible combinations.
Start by testing both screws on
each side of the switch

O. Fli pping the

switch togg le should turn the switch

off or on. After testing screw pairs on
the same side of the switch, move the
clip and probe diagona!ty. Again, ftip
the switch to turn the light off (if it
was on) or on (if it was off) .

A Four-way sw itches have four terminals.

TESTING A FOUR-WAY SWITCH

I 51

WIRING A SINGLE-POLE SWITCH

he most commonty installed switch,

a single-pole, is straightforward to wire.

Spliced together during the rough-in stage,

the neutral wires stay tucked in the out let
box. Pull ground and hot-wire groups out of
the roughed-in box. Use the hole in the handle of your wire strippers or use needle-nose
plie rs to loop the conductor ends so they can
be wrapped around the screw terminals .

First attach the ground wire to the green

O. Orient
the wire loop in a clockwise direction - the

grounding screw on the switch

same direction the screw tightens. A loop

facing the wrong way may be dislodged
by the pressure of the screw head as it

Incoming power
This switch controls a fixture at the end
of a cable run. (See p. 172 for complete
diagram).

tightens down.
Next. connect the hot wires to the switch
terminals, again orienting wire loops clockwise

O. One black wire is hot (power coming

in), and the other is the switch leg (power

going out to the fixture). With a single-pole
switch, howeve r, it doesn't matter whic h
wire you attach to which screw. Generally,
pros attach the hot wire last. much as they
attach the hot wire on a receptacle last.
Once the ground and hot wires are connected to the device, they're ready to be
tucked into the box

O. Always push the

device into the box by hand until it's flush to

the wall. Don 't use screws to draw a device
to a box because the device may not lie flat.
and it's easy to strip the screw holes in a
plastic box. Likewise, although using a screw
gun is faster than a screwdriver, hand screw
switches until you get the hang of it

O.

Wiring switches Before connecting or disconnecting

wires to a switch, use an inductance tester or a voltage
tester to make sure that the power to the switch outlet
is off. Test with the switch both on and off to be sure.
Because switches Interrupt only hot wires, you'd think
they'd all be easy to wire. As you'll see, however, switch
wiring can also be quite complex, especially three-way and
four-way switches and switches with electronic components.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully.

52 1 WIRING A SINGLE-POLE SWITCH

SINGLE-POLE SWITCH WITH BACK-FED WIRING

A slnqle lenqth of cable

serves as a switch leq.

Hot white wire

taped black

hen an outlet or fixture box is closer

of the switch loop. Last, connect the switch

dictates that the white wire in back-fed

to the power source than to the switch

loop black wire to the black fixture wire.

wiring is always the hot lead (power coming

~ see also " Back-Fed Switch," on p. 17 2 .

the switch leg that runs back to the fixture.

in)

box, it's common to run a single length of

12/2

or 14/2 cable as a switch

loop. This

means bringing the power down from the fixture to and through the switch and then back
up to the fixture. As such, the black wire in

the 12/2 or 14/2 switch loop functions as the

incoming hot wire, and the normally neutral
white wire acts to return the power to the
fixture. The white wire is actually a hot wire
and is marked to identify it as such.

At the outlet or fixture box, spllce all the

grounds together. Attach the source neutral
wire to the fixture neutral wire. Attach the
source hot wire to the white wire (taped black)

Note: Here, for convenience, we bend

the rule of using a white wire only as a
neutral wire and instead wind black tape
on each end of the white wire to show that,
in this case, the white wire is being used as
a hot wire.
At the switch, start by stripping and looping the wire ends in the switch loop. Next,
tape the white wire with black electrician's
tape to indicate that it is serving as a hot
wire to the back-fed switch. Convention

O. The black wire, on the other hand, is

First, connect the ground wire to the green

ground screw on the back-fed switch

O.

Next, connect the switch-leg wire (black)

0,

then the hot wire (white taped black) to

the switch terminals . To keep looped wire
ends snug against the screw shaft as you
tighten down the screw, pu tl gently on wires,
as shown

O . Not fumbling

with wire ends

saves time.
Finally, tuck the wires into the box, screw
the switch to the box, and install the cover
plate

O.

SINGLE-POLE SWITCH WITH BACK-FED WIRING

I S3

REPLACING A SINGLE-POLE SWITCH

au can replace a sing le-pole toggle switch

with

a convertible dimmer that's

wired as

a single-pole dimmer. You can use the existing

wires, but first turn off the power to th e circuit.
Use an inductance tester to see if voltage is
present at the switch box

(most inductance

testers can detect the presence of power even

before you remove the cover plate). If the teste r
glows, there's power present: Turn it off at the
fuse box or breaker panel. Test again. If the
power's off, unscrew the old switch and pull it
out from the box

O.

Disconnect the switch wires and note their

condition

O. If the cable's fiber sheathing is

frayed but individual wire insulation is intact.

the wires are probably safe to attach to the
replacement switch. If there's debris present in
the box, sweep or vacuum it out.
Connect the wires to the new switch

O.

There may not be a ground wire to attach

to the new switch's ground screw but Code
doesn't require grounding a switch if there's

Cover all connections

All electrical connections not
ending at a switch, fixture,
or receptacle must be housed
inside a covered junction box so
they can't be disturbed. Often,
electricians will use an existing
light box as a junction box in
which to splice a cable feeding
a new fixture. When there's not
enough room in an existing box,
use a separate junction box to
house the splices.

Code reQuires all

electrical
connections
to be housed
in a junct ion
box.

54 1REPLACING A SINGLE-POLE SWITCH

Screw the dimmer to the box.

no ground wire feeding the box. Once the

dimmer's connected, set it flush to the wall, and
screw it to the box

O.

Note: A dimmer must match the type of

fixture it controls, whether incandescent

or halogen or low-voltage. Typically, the
dimmer rating is stamped on its face

O. In

this case, the rating specifies, "For permanent

incandescent fixtures."

as a singlepole or a three~way
switch. This type costs a bit more
than a fixed switch but gives you
more options on the job site. This
switch may even save you a trip to
the hardware store.

Finally, install the cover plate to protect the

connections in the box and to prevent switch
users from inadvertently touching the wire
ends or dimmer terminals

O.
REPLACING A SINGLE-POLE SWITCH

I ss

WIRING A LINEAR SLIDE DIMMER

ewer, more sophisticated dimmers often

require different connectors-wire leads

rather than screw terminals-but they're sti ll basically switches and so interrupt only hot wires .
For standard sing le-p ole switches , it doesn't
matter which screw terminals you connect a
switch leg or hot wire to, but it does matter
which wire you attach to dimmer leads.
Today's dimmers are sophisticated and
expensive, so always read the directions that
come with them. The slide dimmer shown in
photo

can be wired as a single-pole or three -

way switch, depending on which wires you connect. Thus it has a bare-wire ground, red and
black hot wires, and a yellow wire that is used
to wire the dimmer as a three-way device O .
If the convertible device will be used as a
single -pole dimmer, you won 't need the yellow
wire. So cap it with a wire connector

O.

Splice the ground pigtail to the device's bare

ground lead . Then splice the switch leg from
the box to the red lead on the device. On
devices with wire leads, typically a red lead
attaches to the switch leg

O.

Finally, attach the incoming hot wire to the

other hot lead (black) on the device

O. Care-

fully fold the wires into the box and push the
wired dimmer into the box . Screw the device to
the box, and install the cover plate.

2 Prepare the leads before you begin attaching wires.

56 1 WIRING A LINEAR SLIDE DIMMER

Dimmer leads It's critical

which circuit wires you attach
to dimmer leads. So during the
rough-in stage, distinguish which
wire is the switch leg and which
is the incoming hot wire for each
single-pole dimmer that you install.
To distinguish these wires, many
electricians wrap the wires together
and bend back the switch leg wire.
Typically, the red dimmer lead
attaches to the switch leg wire,
and the black dimmer lead attaches
to the incoming hot wire. Or slip a
short sleeve of cable sheathing back
onto the stripped wires and use
a felt-tipped marker to label
what each wire does.

Connect the black lead to hot wire.

WIRING A LINEAR SLIDE DIMMER

I S7

ROUGHING IN A THREE-WAY SWITCH

hree-way switches allow you to operate a light

from two locations. They're often used at the

top and bottom of a set of stairs or at two entrances

to a room. If you get confused about which wire
goes where, refer to the wiring schematics on
pp. 172-174 or make a drawing of your own.
In new wi r ing, wires are roughed in when

the framing is still exposed . Here, 12/2 and

12/3 cab les were fished in to feed a three-way
switch that was added after the drywall was up.
~ For more on flshlnlJ cables, see p. 191.

After stripping sheathing from the 12/2 cab le,

strip the 12/3 cable. Remov ing 12/3 sheathing is

a little different: Start by lightly scoring the 12/3

cable along its length, up in to the box O. Th en,
whe n you reach the end of t he cable,

cut through

the sheathing. Because you'll soon be st ripping

the ends of individual wi res, cutting through the
sheathing end wo n't comprom ise wire insulation.
~ For more on Itrlpplnq cable, lee p. 34-35.

Starting at the cut-th rough sheathing at the

end of cable, pull the sheathing free of the wires
with in O. The sheathing will separate easily
along the scored line. At the cable's upper end
in the box, ca refully cut free the sheathing.
Twist together the ground wires before
splicing them with a wire connector O. To use a
green wire connector, cut one of the leads shorter
than the other so that it sticks out of the hole in
the end of the wire connecto r. The n connect that
ground lead to the switch's green grou nd screw.
Next, strip wi re insulation from the neutrals,
splice them , cap them with a wire connector, and
push them into the box O . (Neutrals don't connect to standard switches.)
After professional electricians strip cable
sheathing, many wrap individual wires in a distinct fas hi on so any othe r elect rician will know
which wires are travelers and which are switchleg wires. Group and twist traveler wires clockwise , then wrap the switch-leg wire counterclockwise about the travelers. Th is way there's no
need to put tape or labels on the wi res to identify
them or to pull out all the cables and figure out
which wire is what

sa l

O.

ROUGHING IN A THREE-WAY SWITCH

Splice and cap the neutrals.

WIRING A THREE-WAY SWITCH

Connect the second traveler.

o wire a three-way switch, pull the

screws are tightened . Flip the switch over

conductors out of the out let box.

and connect the second (red) traveler

O.

After attaching the second traveler,

connect the hot conductor (switch leg or

Unwrap the switch leg wire from around

(Note: It doesn't matter which traveler wire

hot wire) to the common screw terminal,

the travelers and separate the wires so the

goes where-you'll still be able to turn lights

which is color coded black

travelers are on one side and the switch

off and on. The only critical connection is

device into the box by hand, screw the

leg on the other O. If ind ividual wire ends

the common terminal.)

device to the box, and install a cover plate.

weren't stripped during the rough-in phrase,

If you connect traveler wires in the same

Photo

O. Push the

is a fronta l view of the switch

do so now. Give the strippers a quick twist.

position on two three-way switches-say, you

use your thumb as a fu lcrum to push the wire

attach the red traveler to the first terminal,

that's located between the power source

as just described - the lights will be off when

and the light fixture it controls.

insulation off, and loop the wire ends

O.

After attaching the bare ground wire to

the green grounding screw on the device,
attach the first traveler wire

O. Loop wires

switch toggles are both up or both down.

This is a fine point and most people needn't

we just wired; it's typical for a three-way

~ Also see "Wlrlnq Three-Way Switches,"'

p.172-174.

agonize about it: The three-way switches

clockwise around the screw shafts, and

will still work as long as you attach traveler

they'll be less likely to slip off when the

wires to traveler terminals.

WIRING A THREE-WAY SWITCH

I S9

WIRING A THREE-WAY
SWITCH (CONTINUED)

WIRING A BACK-FED
THREE-WAY SWITCH

or a back-fed three-way switch, a single three-wire cable feeds the sw itch

located beyond the light fixture. Hot wires run from a splice in the fixture box.

In this case, the red and black wires are travelers. The white wire here is not a
neutral; thus it is taped black to indicate that it is the hot conductor connected to
the common terminal.
~ For more on w1rln9 back-fed switches, see the drawlnC) on p. 172.

TYPiCa,
6 switch.

60

connections for a three-way

I WIRING A BACK-FED THREE-WAY SWITCH

Thi s Is a typical three-way switch with back-fed wirinq.

WIRING A FOUR-WAY SWITCH

our-way switches have two travelers incom-

ing (from the power source) and two travel-

ers outgoing (to a second four-way switch) . Thus

there wi ll usually be two three-wire cables entering the box. (In the sequence shown here, you
know we 're working with 14/3 cable because the
cable sheathing, visib le in the box, is white.)
Twist and splice the neutral wires with wire
connectors and push them out of the way, into
the back of the box. Then strip and loop the
ends of the ground wire and the hot conductors
and twist them so they turn clockwise around
the screw shaft. Next, connect the ground to
the four-way switch, as you do for all devices O.
Connect a set of travelers on one side of the
switch . On each side of a four-way switch, there
is a dark termina l and a brass terminal: Connect similar wires to similar terminals. You can
connect red wires to dark terminals or black
wires to dark terminals-it doesn't matter-just
be consistent on both sides of the box. Note
how the electrician exerts a slight tension on
the wires to keep them from slipping off as he
tightens the screw terminals

O.
three- or four-way
switch, use a felt-tipped
marker to note which
wires connect to which
switch terminal before
disconnecting the
wires. Of course, turn
off power to the switch
before you begin.

To summarize how the wires connect to

the four-way switch in this photo sequence:
Red t ravelers are attached to brass screws;
black travelers, to dark screws

O. When you've

got this many wires in a box, it's helpful if you

partially accordion fold the wires before you
push them into the box. Screw the switch to the
outlet box, then install the cover plate.

Similar wires connect to similar

terminals.

WIRING A FOUR-WAY SWITCH

I 61

WIRING A SWITCH/RECEPTACLE COMBO

witch/receptacle combinations are often installed along kitchen

Front view of a switch/receptacle

combo.

WIRING A PILOT LIGHT

counters, where space is at a premium. because it enables you to

fit a switch and a receptacle into a single outlet box. In effect, you 'll be
wiring both a sing le-pole switch- which interrupts hot wires-and a
receptacle that will always be hot. The switch requires a hot wire (from
the power source) coming in and a switch leg going out, and the receptacle requires a hot and a neutra l wire. A ground wire connects to the
device, too.

Pilot light switches are used when the light fixture is

on the other side of a door that is usua lly closed, such
as a basement door or the door to a walk-in cooler.
This specialty switch requires a neutral wire so its
tiny pilot light will glow. Wiring this device is similar to
wiring a switch/receptacle combo: A single hot wire
feeds both the switch and the tiny light bulb, a neutral
serves the light and a black switch leg runs from the
switch to the light fixture in the next room.

~ Specialty switches are shown In the bottom photo on p. 40.

In the sequence shown here. two 14/2 or 12/2 cables feed the setup.
During the rough-in stage, splice ground and neutral wires and run a
pigtail from each group, which will be connected to the device later.
Connect the ground pigtail to the green ground screw on the device;
then connect the hot leg

O. Note: The tab between the two brass

screws has not been broken out , so the hot wire will feed both the
switch and the receptacle.
Turn over the switch . Notice that. on this side of the de vi ce, there is a
brass screw and a silver screw. (The two screws are physically isolated
from each other inside the device.) Attach the neutral (white wire) to
the silver screw, which serves the receptacle. Then connect the black
switch leg to the brass screw nearest the switch

O.

The wired device as seen from the front is shown in photo

1-

O.

On this device, the two screw terminals of the single-pole switch

are on opposite sides.

62 1 WIRING A SWITCH/RECEPTACLE COMBO

The pilot IIqht s let you know whether the IIqht on the
other side of the door Is on.

WIRING A
DOUBLE SWITCH

his economy switch has only push-in

(back-wired) terminals and no ground

screw. On one side is a single hot lead coming in, and on the other side are switch legs
running to two diffe rent energy users. This
switch might be used in a bathroom with
a light/fan combination; one switch would
control the fan and the other. the light. Th is
setup wo uld require one 12/2 cable coming in
to supp ly power and a 12/3 cable going out.
Note: Putting a bath fan on a timer is

WIRING A MOTION DETECTOR

otian detectors are specialized switches that sense motion by infrared or

ultrasonic sensors and then turn on a light. Th e unit will rema in on as long

as there is sound or motion present and for a fixed interval thereafter. Th en it will
shut itself off automat ically.
Because manufacturing details vary widely, it's difficu lt to generalize about
wi ring motion detectors; the switch 's location in the layout-midci rcuit or back
fed-wi ll also dictate the type of cables feeding it and how they're connected to
switch leads . Some motion detectors require a neutral connection; othe r s don't.
The motion detector shown here has no neutral connection. Its green wi r e is a
ground lead, the back lead connects to the incoming hot wire , and the blue wire
connects to the switc h leg

O.

This motion detector's sensor is the la rg e "eye" at the top of the un it. Finally,
secure the cover plate

preferable to wiring it with an on/off switc h.

O.

A time r allows the fan to continue running

a while after the user has left the bathroom
and turned off the light.

A stacked or double switch controls power

to two enerqy users.

Connect the blue wire to the

switch leg.

w.~ WARNING

Specialty switches often combine several functions and

so may require more complex hookups. Reading the directions will ensure a correct installation and prevent you from
damaging the switch. Switches with solid-state electronic
components are particularly sensitive.

WIRING A MOTION DETECTOR

I 63

WIRING AN ELECTRONIC TIMER SWITCH

n electronic timer switch is a sophisticated

piece of equipment. In addition to a control

screen and several programming buttons, the

device is surrounded by a metal fin called a heat
sink, which dissipates the heat generated by

resistance within the switch, thus prolonging the

life of the device. Better quality dimmers and
programmable switches tend to have heat sinks.
This timer switch has four leads, including a
neutral, so two 12/2 cables feed this box. Start
by splicing the stranded green ground lead
directly to the in coming ground wire group- no

need to run a separate ground pigtail to the

switch

O.

Unlike most mechanical switches, this timer

switch has electronic components that require
a neutral wire to operate-hence the timer's
neutral (white) lead is spliced to a neutral wire
group from the cable feeds. Splice the hot
(black) wire to the black lead of the switch and
the switch leg to the blue wire of the switch

O.

Again, read the directions to be sure you're

installing it right.
After carefully folding the spliced wires into
the box, hold the face of the switch flush to the

O. Then instal!
O. (Note: The timer switch's

wall and screw it into the box

the cover plate

control screen, large override button, and

three smaller programming buttons are at
the bottom.)

w.,,~

TRADE SECRET

, II 1

When splicing a stranded wire

to solid conductors, as shown in
photo I, place the tip of the stranded
wire slightly beyond the solid conduc
tors so that when you twist on the
wire connector, its threads will fully
engage the stranded wire and ensure
a solid splice.

64 1 WIRING AN ELECTRONIC TIMER SWITCH

WIRING A
MANUAL TIMER

anua l timers tend to be inexpensive

and simp le to wire: They're basically

a single-pole switch. Th e model shown here

has no ground lead. and its lead wires attac h
to a hot wire an d a swi tch leg. Because both
leads are black, it probably doesn't matter
which lead you connect to the hot wire or
switch leg. After installing the cove r plate,
snap the plastic di al onto the metal po st in

the middle of the unit.

A manual timer turns off a Uqht after a set

period of time.

WIRING A MANUAL TIMER

I 65

~ I ~------------------~

IGHTING

66

FIXTURE WIRING

he temporary lighting socket

in the photo below shows the

basics of connecting a light fixture

to supply or source wires. Th e sup-

ply ground wire connects to a green

box pigta it, its neutral (white) supply
wire connects to the neutral pigtai l,
and its hot (black) supply wire connects to the hot pigtail.
Connect wires in this order:
ground, neutral. and then hot. And
disconnect them in the reverse
order: hot, neutral, and then ground .
In this manner, the grounding system stays connected as tong as
possible to protect you. Remember
to ground metal boxes, mounting
plates, and fixtures.

Wiring, Lighting, and Low-Voltage Terms

Hickey
A threaded coupling that
joins two lengths of threaded
tubing.
Lamp
For most of us, a light
fixture that sits on a table
or floor. To an electrician,
lamp Is the preferred term
for a light bulb: A standard
Incandescent bulb is thus a
"type A lamp." To avoid
confusion in this book, a lamp
is a fixture, not a bulb.
Leads
Wires preattached to a
fixture. Leads are spliced
to supply wires to energize
the fixture. Typically, a fixture
has ground, neutral, and hot
leads. Fixture leads are often
stranded wire.
Light Box
An outlet box that
serves a light fixture.

The basics of IIqht fixture wlrlnq.

(The bare copper and qreen wires are

partially covered with white paint .)

68 1 fiXTURE WIRING

Nipple
Short section of hollow
threaded rod.
Lo Vo or LV
Low voltage. These
systems are typically
12v but sometimes 24v.

Omnidirectional Flare
Light from a standard
incandescent bulb that

radiates in all directions;

as opposed to a controlled
or directional beam.
Primary Wires
In a lo"vo system, wires
running from a 120v power

source to the transformer.

Running Thread

Hollow threaded rod or pipe

in the center of a light fixture,
which provides a conduit for

wires and a way to connect

various fixture parts.
Secondary Wires
Wires running from a

transformer to lo"vo tracks,

cables, or fixtures.

Line Voltage
The standard current in
most house circuits: 120v.

Source or Supply Wires

Wires from the power source,

Lumens
A measure of light on
the surface of a bulb.

Transformer
An electrical device that

typically 120v.

reduces line voltage to low

voltage. All lo-vo lighting
systems require a transformer.

BULB TYPES
Four-pin compact
fluorescent (32w)

Four-pin compact
fluorescent (26w)

Four- pin hlqh-performanee

compact fluorescent (42w)

Metal halide exterior,

specialty (175w)

M R16 haloqen
(12v, SOw)

White qlobe
(60w)

Flame-tip

Capsyllte ,

candelabra,
small base

provides white
haloqen IIqht,

(15w)

but screws Into

an Incandescent

socket (75w)
Two-pin, hlqh-efflclency fluorescent (14w)

,1

Conventional
Incandescent
(150w)

Two- pin. fluorescent (32w)

Two-pin, fluorescent (17w)

PAR flood lamp.

ceramic metal halide

here are more bulb types than there's

with the aluminum or brass shell (neutral)

room to describe them. so we' ll stick to

and the contact tab (hot) in the bottom of the

now mandate that a certain percentage of

socket. Typically, the socket is energized with

house lighting be fluorescent.

the three most common types here: incan-

incandescent ones, so many building codes

descent fluorescent. and halogen. When

house current (120v). Incandescent bulb watt-

changing burned-out bulbs, make sure that

age is stamped on the top of the bulb.

Halogen bulbs

Fluorescent bulbs

standard and low-voltage (Io-vo) systems.

are va riations in diameter, pin size (for

Fluorescent bu lbs ha ve contact pins at either

But even on reduced current. they burn

fluorescents and halogens), and so on. You

end that slide into fixture sockets and then

bright- and hot. The filament in a halogen

should never have to force a bulb to make

rotate into final position; two-pin bulbs plug

bu lb reaches in excess of 1200 oF, so be sure

the replacement bu lb fits the fixture socket

because, even within each bu lb type, there

it fit a socket.

Incandescent bulbs

Halogen bulbs can be installed in both

into magnetic ballasts, four-pin bu lbs plug

to install these bulbs where they can't be

into electronic ballasts. A fluorescent tube

accidentally touched .

increases wattage as it increases in length,

Incandescent bulbs screw into threaded sock-

it can also coil to increase wattage. Fluores-

ets and complete a circuit by making contact

cent bulbs are more energy efficient than

BULB TYPES

I 69

TESTING LAMPS & REMOVING OLD WIRES

f a lamp flickers or doesn't light at all, you can perform

a series of tests to ide ntify the problem. A chandelier is

more complicated because it will have seve ral sockets, but

investigating its problems is essentia lly the same. Perform
these tests with the lamp unplugged or the chandelier disconnected.
Scrub the inside of an old socket with steel wool to
remove corrosion and imp rove electrical contact. Remove
any steel wool particles as they can cause shorts . Use needle-nose pliers or a screwdriver point to lift the contact tab
in the middle of the socket. Plug the lamp in and screw in a
light bu lb to see if these repairs help. If not, test the socket.
If necessary, press the sides of the socket shell to pop it
out of the base. On most brass shells, "p ress here" is typically stamped on the socket shell. Slide off both the shell
and the cardboard liner. Pull the socket loose

Use steel wool to clean and improve electrical contacts.

O. You can

conduct the next test with the wires disconnected from the
socket, but you don't need to remove them yet. Attach the
continuity tester clip to the soc ket's brass screw terminal
(hot) and the tester probe to the tab in the bottom of the
socket. Tu rn the switch off and on

O. If the tester doesn't

light, the socket is defective and should be replaced.

If th e socket is okay, test the cord. Turn the socket on
and connect the tester clip to the narrow plug prong and
the tester point alte rn ately to either the bare wire ends
held down by the screws or to the contact tab and the
shell. Touch the tester point to both wi res (or to the tab and
shell), move the clip to the wide prong, and repeat the test

O. If there's no continuity in either (or both) of the wires,

there's a break in the wire or faulty connections to the
plug. Replace the co rd and plug.

Slide off the socket shell and cardboard liner.

If the lamp base is metal, test for shorts by attaching the

tester clip to the narrow (hot) prong of the plug, and touching the tester point to the lamp metal base. Sw itch the tamp
off and on. If there's a short. the tester will light

O . If the

plug is not polarized. repeat the test with the other prong.
To replace the switch , unscrew the wires from their
terminals and install a new switch

O. However, if you're

replacing the cord and plug as well, simply snip one end of
the lamp cord and pull the socket and cord out of the lamp.
To replace ent ire socket assembly, unscrew the set screw
that holds the socket base to the threaded rod that runs
through the center of the lamp. Then turn the socket base
counterc lockwise to remove it O.

70

I TESTING LAMPS & REMOVING OLD WIRES

~.~

' II 1:

TRADE SECRET

Take photos of lamps and fixtures before you

disassemble them, and the fixtures will be easier
to put back together. To avoid losing hard-to-find
and tiny parts, put similar pieces in plastic bags
and label them.

Work safely Unplug lamps or shut off power

to chandeliers before working on them. If a
chandelier is presently connected to a circuit,
use a voltage tester to make sure the power is
off before disconnecting the fixture. If a fixture
is heavy, by all means get help supporting it
and lowering it after it has been safely
disconnected.

Unscrew the socket base from the threaded rod.

Wear work gloves to protect your hands;

wires, sockets, and other metal parts are often
sharp. Many repair pros favor disposable rubber
or latex gloves, which are flexible enough for fine
work, but impervious to cleaning solvents and
toxic metal dusts. If you use power tools to drill,
grind, or polish metal or if you solder connections, wear a respirator mask and eye protection.

TESTING LAMPS & REMOVING OLD WIRES

I 71

REWIRING A LAMP

1 Screw on the new socket base.

O.

fter the old wires have been removed,

pull apart the two wires inside the cord

a fixture is ready for rewiring. Screw

Tighten the screws down, using your thumb

the new socket base onto the threaded rod

Next. tie an underwriter's knot, which

prevents the cord from being pulled back

unti l the base is snug against the curved

into the lamp and stressing connections

harp saddle (the harp, when fitted into its

to switch terminals

socket. Note: Attach the marked or ridged

wire to the silver (neutral) screw on the

saddle, supports the lamp shade)

O . Cut the

replacement cord to length. Typically, that's

O. Trim the

wire so

there's about J1i2 in. above the knot. Then

the switch-make sure they loop clockwise.

to press the wires into the bottom of the

switch. Slide the cardboard liner over the

wired switch. Then slide the socket shell

about 9 fL 6 ft. of cord from the lamp to the

strip the wire sheathing to expose bare wire.

Although you can use a standard wire strip-

over the liner O. Rock the shell into its base

plug, 2 ft. for the cord hidden inside the lamp,

per, the automatic wire stripper shown here

until you hear two clicks

and roughly 1 ft. above the socket, which

severs and pops off the sheathing with one

a socket shell into its base, gently wiggle the

you'll strip, tie, and trim O.

If the cord has a fabric sheathing, use a

squeeze of the tool

uti lity knife to slit it along its length. Then

place the loops on the screw terminals of

72 1 REWIRING A LAMP

O.

Twist and loop the bare wire ends. Then

O. After snapping

shell to make sure it's seated solidly.

Slit the lamp cord with a utility knife. Then separate the wires.

Tie an underwriter's knot to secure the cord in the lamp.

Tinning Tinning, often referred to

as soldering, stranded wires Is not
absolutely necessary, but pros do It
because It fills In spaces between wire
strands. In effect, soldering makes
stranded wire solid, so it's unlikely
to crush and spread out when a screw
head tightens on it. Tinned strands
are also easier to twist wire connectors
onto. Note: Use only rosin-core solder
for electrical connections; acid-core
solder will corrode them. And make
sure you solder only on a heatresistant surface.

With completely new wiring, this old lamp is as

good as new.

Soldering makes stranded wire solid and easier to work.

REWIRING A LAMP

I 73

REPLACING A PLUG

The points of a quick pluq pierce the lamp cord.

This pluq is more traditional and comes with screw terminals.

au should replace any plug that is

insert it into the body of the plug. As you

cracked, difficult to remove, or whose

squeeze the plug prongs together, two sharp

ibl e, you'd see that the silver screw makes

points on the prongs pierce th e sheathing

to create an electrical connection. Slide the

contact with th e sides of the socket shell

(the part that the bulb screws into), and the

plug shell over the body to lock the cord and

brass screw makes contact with the tab in

prongs in place.

the bottom of the socket. Should you inad-

cord is damaged near the plug . All lamp cord

is 18 gauge and will fit any type of lamp plug.
If the plug's prongs are different sizes~one
prong is wider-then the plug is polarized.
Individual wires in lamp cord are also
differentiated so you can attach them
correctly to switch and plug terminals.
If the lamp cord is plastic sheathed, the

If you have fabric-sheathed cord, however, use a plug with screw connections.
Strip about 1 in. of fabric sheathing, then

If the hidden parts of the socket were vis-

vertently touch the side of the shell while

changing a bulb, there's no harm done if
the socket is correctly wired. However, if

strip about lh in. of insulation off each wire

you reverse the order in which wires are

end to expose bare wire. Thread the wire

attached-known as reversing the polarity-

wire to be connected to neutral terminals

will be ridged; the wire to be connected

through the plug body, tie an underwriter's

the outside of the screw shell becomes

to hot terminals is smooth. If the cord is

knot, loop each wire clockwise around a

hot (energized) and could shock someone

sheathed with fabric , remove the sheath-

screw terminal. then tighten the screws O.

changing a bulb. Make sure you have the

ing and you'll see that one wire is striped or

marked in some way-that's the neutral.

Polarized fixtures

wires properly connected, paying attention

to the striped, ribbed, or otherwise marked

There are two main types of lamp cord

Light fixtures parts are polarized, so they fit

neutral wire and connecting it to the neutral

plugs. Connect plastic-sheathed lamp cords

together on ly one way. On a correctly wired

(silver) screw.

to a "Quick plug"

O. Cut the end of the cord

square, thread it through the plug shell, and

light fixture, the neutral wire of the lamp cord

nects to the wider prong of a plug; the hot

whereas the hot wire connects to the brass

wire connects to the narrow prong of a plug .

screw on the socket.

TRADE SECRET
Near the plug, slide a piece
of heat-shrink tubing over
the end of a fabric-covered lamp
cord to keep it from unraveling.

74 1 REPLACING A PLUG

Finally, the neutral wire of lamp cord con-

connects to the silver screw on the socket.

REFURBISHING A CHANDELIER
handeliers vary widely, especially

WIRING A VICTORIAN LIGHT FIXTURE

those designed in the early decades of

the 20th century. Fortunately. you can get

replacement parts for many chandeliers
and substitute modern equivalents for many

Connecting incoming wires to fixture leads is standard: hot to hot,

neutral to neutral. Grounds are spliced and connected to metal boxes
and fixture ground screws, if any. Note: Fixture bodies and mounting
devices vary considerably.

other parts. Still. it's wise to save all original

Grounding
screw

parts of a fixture. Photograph the fixture before you take it apart. and you'll know what
goes where when it 's time to reassemble it.
Survey the chandelier for missing or damaged parts. As you disassemble the unit, put
like parts in plastic bags and label them. In
many cases, old switch and socket assem-

Neutral lead - - ---" ~~:z;'!-,?'I'!;!!!

S "----

blies will st ill work. Use a continuity tester

y ---

to test old switches and lightly rub steel

Hot lead
Ground wires
Mounting strap
Groundinq screw

wool inside sockets to remove corrosion and

improve ele ctrical contacts.
Old wi ring is r arely wo rth saving, however. At best, it will be brittle and, at worst,

-4-- - - Canopy

broken or unsafe. Snip the wires running

to each socket

(see p. 76) so you can

remove the sockets from the shade hold er s. Removing sockets takes finesse and
patience . Socket shells snap into socket
bases, so rock the shells gently from side to
side until they unsnap. Then angle the shells
out of the holder

Hanging
chain

a (see p. 76). Chances

are, the cardboard line r s (sleeves) inside the

shells will have deteriorated and should be
discarded.
In many older chandeliers, source and
switch wires are spliced together and
housed in the fixture body. To disconnect
the body, unscrew the finial at the bottom.
Separate the cover (top) and pan (bottom)
of the body, disconnect the wire splices and

Shade
holder

remove the old wi res. Be sure to save the

nipples (short threaded rods) and hickey
(U -shaped coupling), because you'll need
them to reassemble the chandelier body.

Rewiring the fixture

Before rewiring a chandelier, refinish it or
simply clean up its parts. These days, leaving the surface patina intact is in vogue; the
fixture seen here was washed with a simple
household cleaner, rubbed with steel wool to

Finial

Shade
and socket
assembly

REFURBISHING A CHANDELIER

I 75

REFURBISHING A CHANDELIER (CONTINUED)

remove rusted spots and other obvious flaws,
and then lacquered. Because the fixture's
sockets still worked after 80 years, the
restorer decided to reinstall them and wire
them with rayon lamp cord. Use a utility knife
to remove about 11/2 in. of the fabric sheath'
ing, and then use wire strippers to strip 1/2 in.
of insulation off the individual wire ends.
Loop the wire ends and place them clockwise
onto the socket screws-in the same direction that the screws tighten

O . For most

lamp cord, individual wires are different

>.

colors; in this example, the installer made

the blue wire neutral and the brown wire hot.
It doesn't matter what color you designate
hot or neutral, as long as your designations

are consistent.

.' .

'.

Carefully rock the sockets out of

their holders.

After wiring each socket, slide on a new

cardboard liner to insulate the screw terminals. The socket base should also have
a new liner O. Snap each socket shell to
a base. Then use a small screwdriver to
tighten the threaded part of the socket base
to a male threaded loop linked to the fixture
body. (A screwdriver won't mar the fixture
surface as pliers WOUld.)

Feed the wires from each socket into the

fixture body

O. Group the neutral and hot

wires from all the sockets. Then splice each

group to the main lead wires, which you'JI
eventually connect to the source wires (neutral to neutral, hot to hot). Although it's not
essential, professionals prefer to tin (solder)
the ends of stranded wires, using rosin-core
solder, so the wires will splice better. Use
wire connectors to splice each group, tug
gently to be sure wires are solid ly spliced,
then wrap each splice generously with electrician's tape

O.

Chandelier assemblies vary, so be guided

free cord above the post. to strip and

by the photograph you took of your fixture

attach to source wires. (The power will

be off, of course.)

Reassemble the fixture

before disassembling it. Typically, a finial

Once you've spliced socket wires to main lead

screws to the bottom nipple, and a female

wires, feed those leads through the opening

threaded loop to the top nipple. After the

in the hickey and into the threaded rod that

main leads emerge from the top nipple and

old fixture has a crow's foot, remove it,

O.

loop, thread the leads through the hanging

because it was intended to screw directly

Then stack the chandelier pan, cover, and

chain that supports the chandelier body.

to a ceiling joist and doesn't allow much

related parts onto the hickey-and-threaded-

Then feed the leads into the hollow post that

flexibility. Replace it with a standard mount-

the canopy screws to. Leave roughly 1 ft. of

ing bar, which screws to a properly rated

runs through the top of the fixture body

rod assembly

O.

76 1 REFURBISHING A CHANDELIER

Chandeliers' mounting details also vary,

so, again, be guided by your fixture. If your

ceiling box . The threaded post under the

canopy screws into a threaded hole in

the center of the mounting bar ~.

Shades are usua lly held in place with three
small thumbscrews; tighten them just snug
and then back off the screws a fraction so
the shades wi ll have room to expand without
cracking when they heat up G).
chandelier Is as good
11 asThenewrefurbished
but has an antique charm.

REFURBISHING A CHANDELIER

I 77

MOUNTING LIGHT FIXTURES

ixture boxes must be mounted to framing to

CEILING FIXTURE ELEMENTS

adequately support the weight. (Boxes that are not

In this basic setup, the ceiling box mounts to an adjustable bar,

which Is screwed to ceiling joists. The fixture, In turn, screws to a
mounting bracket, which screws to the ceiling box. All metal boxes
and brackets must be qrounded to be safe. Many electricians use
grounding screws In both the box and the bracket, but one ground
Is sufficient: The metal mounting screws provide groundlnq
continuity to box and bracket.

solidly mounted are a hazard because in time they'll

move, and that movement could compromise electrical
connections inside.) There are many mounting options for
boxes: The main choice is whether you nail or screw the
box directly to a stud or ceiling joist or use an extendable

Supply cable

mounting bar to which the box attaches, as shown here.

Celllnq box ------::;=1---"

Either method works fine, but because the box slides

along a mounting bar, you can position the box-and hence
the light fixture-where you want. The other choice for a

Grounding
screw

Bare copper

recessed can, which is also adjustable, is a housed unit

-:::::;~~~~j~

ground wire
"-:i-- - - Hot supply wire

such as that shown in the bottom photo on the facing page.

~~---~~~~~~~l~~:=- Wire nut

Mounting fixtures to boxes

Neutral
supply wire

Mountinq bracket

If mounting screws on all light fixtures were exactly the

same diameter and spacing as the screw holes on all

GrOUnding
-=====~t;~Jb~~====~~
screw
1

boxes, life would be simple and you'd screw the fixture

directly to the box. But there are many different box sizes

lead

Neutral

and configurations, and light fixtures vary considerably.

fixture lead

Consequently, there are many mounting brackets to reconcile these differences. Always examine existing outlet

Fixture base

boxes before buying new fixtures and make sure that

---~-- Globe bulb

fixture hardware can mount to existing boxes. Otherwise,

a routine installation could turn into a long, drawn'out
affair with a lot of trips to the hardware store.

MOUNTINGBRACKET~S____________~::::::::~______-=::~::::~~

____~::::::::::::::~
Pivoting offset bar

..

European hanger ----,.,!S<~.;;;;:;;~O:

(sconce hangs on It.
rather than being
screwed to It)

..

Trombone bar
(slldlnq. adjustable)

7s 1MOUNTING LIGHT

FIXTURES

1iI.1l--

1/ 8 - ln.

bar

What follows is an overview of how various fixtures

Screwinq a
mountinq bracket
with a threaded
nipple to a
celllnq box.

mount to outlet boxes. Later in the chapter (see p. 85),

we cover how to attach a standard octagonal out let box
for a cei ling fixture.
All metal brackets, boxes, and lamp fixtures must be
grounded to be safe. The green grounding screws have
a specified thread count to ensure a positive connection
to metal boxes or plates.

Flat-mounting brackets
Typically, a mounting bracket screws to an outlet box, and
the fixture attaches to the bracket. either by machine
screws or, as is more common for chandeliers, by a
threaded post that screws into a threaded hole in the
center of the mounting bracket. Brackets can be as simple as a flat bar with screw slots; but some adjust by slid-

This wall sconce

requires a special
flanged ring bracket
to mount It.

ing, whereas others are offset slightly to provide a little

more room for electrical connections-and fingers. Ring
brackets can be rotated so the slots line up perfectly with
outlet box and fixture screw holes.
Even simple brackets give you several mounting
options. Th e flat bar shown in the top photo at right. for
example, is slotted to receive fixture machin e screws. It
also receives a th readed nipple to which a chandelier
wi ll mount.
~ For more on mountln9 cellln9 boxes. see p. 85.

An lerated
incandescent fixture
can be covered
with Insulation.

Matched brackets
Some mounting brackets are specifically matched to a
fixture, as with the clever martini wall sconce shown on
p. 83. Because the fixture designer didn't want screws
on the face of the fixture base, he specified a flanged ring
bracket. which receives screws on the side, where they'll
be less visib le.

No brackets
Some fixtures, such as the recessed lighting fixture
shown on p. 88, don't require a mounting bracket.
The fixture's can (housing) is its own junction box; and,
once inserted into a hole cut in the ceiling, the fixture is
supported by the ceiling it sits on. The fixture can is further secured by integral clips and trim pieces that pull it
tight to the plaster or drywall ceiling . Recessed cans are
IC rated (they may be cove red with insulation) or non-ICrated (cannot be covered with insulation). (Ie stands for
"insulated contact.")

are rated lor 50 Ib; il your light

fixture weighs more than that,
install a fan box instead.

MOUNTING LIGHT FIXTURES

I 79

INSTALLING A SIMPLE PORCELAIN FIXTURE

efore replaci ng or installing any fixture,

ke ep the fabric from frayi ng further, wrap

shut off th e power to the outlet and test

the sheath ing with electrical tape . Use black

to be sure it's off. Use an inductance tester

tap e on the hot (blac k) wire

and white

silver sc r ew, hot wire to the brass screw O.

If a fixture has two or more mounting
screws, sta rt each screw before tightening

tape on the neutral (w hite) so there will

anyone sc r ew all the way down. It will be

power because there's no guarantee that the

be no future confusion about whic h wi re

easier to li ne up the scr ews to th e ho les in

fixture was wired correctly.

is which

to test both hot

and neutral

wires for

If the existing cable has fraying fabric

sheathing but the thermoplastic insulation

O. Of cou r se, if the shea thing is

int act, it's not necessary to wrap wires

wit h tape.

ar ound individual wires is int act, it's safe

Con nect wi r es to the app ropriate screw

to r eattac h the wires to a new fixture. To

term inals on the fix ture: neu tra l wire to the

80 1 INSTALLING A SIMPLE PORCELAIN fiXTURE

the outlet box or mounting bracket

O.

With porcelain fi xt ures, don't overtighte n

the sc r ews that hold it to the wall or ceil ing.
Likewise, never over t ighten a bulb. A snu g
fit is fine

O.

R SF

PLAY IT SAFE!
Before working on any electrical fixture,
shut off power to the circuit by flipping the
breaker or removi ng the fuse controlling
that circuit. Then use an inductance tester
to be sure the power is off.
Electrical codes require that all fixtures
and devices-eve rything that gets installedmust be "listed" and must be recognized
by the authority having jurisdiction (AHJ),
usually the local inspector checking your
installation. (Typically, light fixtures will
have an Underwriters Laboratories lULl
listing.) If an inspector doesn't see a Ul
sticker, he or she could ask you to remove
the fixture.
Pay attention to a fixture's wattage
rating, usually specified on a sticker on the
fixture's base. Substituting a bulb with a
higher wattage can overheat and damage
the fixture and, in some cases, ignite
nearby combustible surfaces.

WARNING
,", " r 'l Porcelain fixtures have endured for decades
because they're inexpensive and reliable. But they
are relatively fragile. Avoid overtightening the machine
screws that hold a porcelain fixture base to a box,

because if you fracture the base you'll have to replace

it. When the screw head is just snug, stop turning.

INSTALLING A SI MPLE PORCELA I N FIXTURE

I 81

REMOVING AN EXISTING WALL SCONCE

hen removing an exist in g sconce,

save all the old screws and incidental

hardware- you never know what you might

need when you attach the new one. Choose a
sconce that suits your taste. In this case, we
used something a bit more playful-a sconce

whose shade is a martini glass and whose

halogen bulb shines through colored glass ice
cubes. Because the new sconce is a low-volt
age unit, it also requires a transformer, which

fits under the fixture base.

First remove the glass shade from the

Remove the fixture to expose the wires.

existing fixture; most are he ld on by small

setscrews . Always support the shadeespecially jf it's in verted-to preven t its failing out and breaking O. Turn off power to
the outlet, then use an inductance tester to
make sure the power is off

O. If the tester

doesn ' t light. it's safe to disassemble the

fixture and handle its wires .
Remove the fixture's mounting screws; in

O. Pull the fixture away from

O. (The green-and-yellow striped

wire is the fixture's ground lead.)

After disconnecting the splices to the
fixture leads, remove the special mount-

this case, they're on the side of the fixture

base

wires

the wall

ing bracket because it won't be needed to

mount the new fixture

O. (Its holes won't

line up with the new fixture's mounting

to reveal its mounting brackets and the wire

screws.) Save this bracket in case you want

connectors that splice the supply and fixture

to reinstall the old sconce elsewhere.

82 1 REMOVING AN EXISTING WALL SCONCE

TRADE SECRET
It's always best to
turn off the circuit
breaker feeding the fix
ture rather than relying
on the light switch to
disconnect power.

CONNECTING A NEW SCONCE

nee the old sconce has been removed,

you're ready to connect the new one.

Install the new sconce's mounting bracket

O.

In this case, the new bracket has tabs on

each side rather than a continuous flange,
like the old one.

If you hold the fixture one handed as

shown, it frees your other hand to make connections O. Here, the fixture takes a 12v,
bi-pin halogen bulb, so it requires a trans-

former (the black box) to reduce the house's

120v power. (The transformer here is an

electronic, solid -state device- essentially, a

circuit board-with no moving parts.)
Splice the ground wires, then the neutral
wires, and then the hot wires

O. After you

finish splicing the wire groups, push the

Prepare the wires before you p1ace

the fixture on the wal1.

excess wire and the wire connectors into

the outlet box behind the mounting bracket
so there will be room for the transformer
under the fixture base O.
Line up the holes in the fixture base to the
holes in the mounting bracket. and screw
the base to the bracket O . Don't tighten one
screw all the way down until you've at least
started the screw on the other side.

hole or the outlet box will have

been set below the level of the
drywall. To prevent the bracket's
being drawn into the wall, put
washers behind the screw holes
of the bracket.

CONNECTING A NEW SCONCE

I 83

C CF

INSTALLING HALOGEN BULBS & ACCESSORIES

efare inserting any bulb into a fixture

socket, check its rating. As noted earlier

in this chapter, if the ha logen bu lb pins

don't fit the socket. don't force them-you
may have the wrong bu lb. Grip the protec'
tive plastic wrapping-not the bu lb-as you
insert the halogen bulb into the socket

O.

As you remove the bulb from its packaging,

gently pinch the end of the bulb-a little like
squeezing a fast-food packet of ketchup-until
its pins stick out through the plast ic. Once

",

you've pressed the bulb into the socket. you

can eas ily sl ide the plastic off

O.

La-vo bulb pins are so tiny that if they

become oxidized, carbon can bui ld up in
the socket, causing the bulb to flicker or
not shine at all. To avoid replacing a socket
(which means rewiring the lamp), electricians routinely app ly an antioxidant paste
to the lo-vo pins before inserting them into
a socket.
If your fixture has novelty items such as
these glass ice cubes, take care when instal ling them so you don't damage the halogen
bulb

O. The cubes are tempered glass, so

they can withstand heat. Always allow the

lamp and cubes to coo! before handling
them or you'll burn yourself badly O.

Touching a halogen bulb with bare fingers

shortens the bulb's life. Instead, slit the plastic
bag the bulb is shipped in and grip the bag as
you Insert the bulb.

84 1 INSTALLING HALOGEN BULBS

& ACCESSORIES

3 Carefully place the qlass cubes.

Party time!

PREPPING & MOUNTING A CEILING BOX

tandard ceiling box and bar assemblies

are rated for 50 lb. If your light fixture

weighs more than that, install a fan box

instead.

~ For more on mountln9 fan boxes,

see p. 145.
Start by using a sturdy pair of needlenose pliers or lineman's pliers to knock loose

and twist out the center knockout in the

box

O. To attach the box to the bar, line up

the threaded fitting on the bar to the knockout in the center of the box

O.

Most bar or bar assemblies come with a

center screw and washer designed to attach
the box to the bar. Fasten the screw and
washer to the threaded fitting on the bar

O.

Mounted together, the box and bar are rated

to support a 50-lb. light fixture.
In new construction, this bar and box

ting a ceiling box, bend up the tabs

and they'll be easier to secure O.
Extend the bar until both ends are snug

assembly would be installed before the cei l-

against the joists. Measure the thickness of

lngs are covered, from below. Thus the bar's

the ceiling, adjust the height of the mount-

tabs face down. In a retrofit, however, you'll

ing bar so the box will be flush to the ceiling

be screwing or nailing the tabs to joists from

above (if there 's access). So when retrofit-

below, and screw the bar tabs to the

joists O.

PREPPING & MOUNTING A CEILING BOX

I 85

DISCONNECTING A CHANDELIER

TRADE SECRET
If a chandelier canopy
is on the small side,
make sure the ceiling box
is large enough to house
the wires (and wire con
nectors) to be connected.
Conversely. if the box is
on the small side. a large
canopy can hide the
connections.

n the sequence shown here, the homeowne rs swa pped a 19205

gothic chandel ier for a la rge, handcrafted Mex ican one. Both

the post to expose th e wi re connections behind it.

After lowerin g the canopy, pull ou t th e wi re splices-being

fixtures were quirky, and th e ca nopy of the Mex ican fixture was small

careful not to touch bare wires-and use an indu ct ance tester to see

O. If the te ster glows, there's power: Flip the circuit

f or a fixture of it s size. Fortunately, the ceiling box was deep enough

if there's power

to house the supp ly ca bl e and the wires feed ing the four chandelier

bre aker or remove the fu se co ntroll ing the ci rcuit and te st agai n.

arm s. Had there been a shallow "pancake box" in the ceili ng, the box

Once you're sure the power is off. twi st off th e wire connectors and
sepa rate the wires O. To avoid mi splacing th em , temporarily twist

would have been too small to house all the wire connections and
would have had to be replaced by a deeper one.

Because a helpe r didn't show up, the electrician had to supp ort
the very heavy fixture with one hand while he attached wi re co n-

the wire connectors onto sourc e wi res.

Remove the chandelier. In most cases, that means un sc rewi ng
two mounting screws; but here th e fixture post was threaded, so it

nectors with the other. Somet imes yo u've got to make do wi th

was necessa ry to spin the whole fi xture to unscrew th e post from a

the resources at hand. But jf yo u install a cha ndelier th is big or

unwieldy, by all means get help. Before disconnecting a chandelier,

threaded bracket in the box O .

See if the replacement chandelier ca n be mounted to the existi ng

turn off th e breaker cont rolli ng the fixture. Unscrew the setscrew

bracket; if not. remove the bracket

holding the ca nopy to the fi xture post

86 1 DISCONNECTING A CHANDELIER

and slide the canopy down

O. Also, if the outlet box is not

flush to the ceiling, now is the t ime to rectify that co nd ition.

INSTALLING A CHANDELIER

efore installing a chandelier, preassemble the mounting bracket for the new

fixture. This bracket is typical: A threaded

nipple screws into the mounting bracket;
a chandelier fitting will screw onto that
nipple. Note, too, the green grounding screw,
which will secure a pigtail from the groundwire splice

O. Then screw the mounting

bracket to the ceiling box

O.

Get help if the fixture's heavy, especially

if it screws directly to the box rather than
to a nipple. But if you must install it singlehandedly, assemble all the too ls and parts
beforehand so you can focus on lifting the
fixture and securing it quickly O. Make sure
the wires won't obstruct the nipple in the
box. and have the cap screw handy_ As
you raise the fixture, support its canopy

rather than holding individual lamp supports, which may be assembled in sections
and come apart.
If the nipple supporting the fixture is long
enough, there will be adequate room to
reach in and splice wires. Splice the ground
wires first, then the neutrals, and then the
hot wires

O. When the splices are complete,

tuck the conductors into the ceiling box or

behind the canopy, hold the canopy flush to
the ceiling, and tighten the mounting screws
all the way down. Here, a cap nut covers the
end of the threaded nipple O.

WARNING
\:......'J When dealing with any
fixture, disconnect
the power at the service
panel or fuse box before
mounting the fixture. If
the wires are jammed
behind the canopy,
there's a chance of nicking a wire and possibly
creating a ground fault.

INSTALLING A CHANDELIER

I 87

CUTTING A CEILING HOLE FOR RECESSED LIGHTING

s the name implies, recessed lighting

RECESSED LIGHT FIXTURE

Recessed light fixtures vary. The low-voltage model in the photo
sequences has a transformer at the end of its assembly to reduce house
voltage. The drawing shows a model that runs on house voltage (120v),
so it has no transformer. If the unit is watertight, it will have additional
trim or lens elements. Closely follow the installation instructions
provided with your fixture.

fixtures fit up into space above the ceil-

ing and so don't disturb the flat plane below.

Recessed fixtures distribute light evenly and
thus are frequently used to illuminate work
areas or tight spaces. (The watertight unit
shown here is insta lled in a shower alcove.)
Because a retrofit recessed light can (hous-

Frame or armature

ing) doesn't weigh much, it rests lightly atop

ceiling drywall or plaster. Spring-loaded clips
or trim pieces draw the can lip tight to the
ceiling surface. Of course, all connections are

I
Supply
cable

Mountlnq
clips
extend,
rest on
ceiling

Junction

done with the power off.

There's no absolute on where to place a
recessed light; but in a small space, such as
a shower alcove, a fixture centered in one

direction or another will look best O. In

addition, you may want to use a stud finder

box

to avoid hitting ceiling joists above.

Drill a pilot hole to see what's above

0,

and to make sure there 's room for the can.

Make the hole small because if there 's an
obstruction above it, you'll need to patch it.
Afte r drilling the hole, you can insert a
4 -i n. piece of bent wire and rotate it to see
if it hits a cei ling joist. Also, drill a small pilot

Baffle or
trim piece - - - - -

hole to keep the point of a hole-saw blade

from drifting.
Keep the drill vertical, and the circle
of the sawblade parallel to the ceiling

O.

There are special carbide hole saws for

drilling through plaster. A bimetal hole
saw will also cut through drywall or plaster,
but it'll destroy the saw in the process .

Retrofitting recessed lighting In retrofit

Installations, the supply cable to the recessed lightIng unit typically comes from an existing ceiling box or
nearby switch box. The supply cable feeds to an Integral
junction box on the fixture. Finding the nearest power
source and fishing the wires to the fixture are always
an adventure if there's not accessible space above.
If the recessed fixture is a low-voltage unit, such as
the one shown here, it will come with a transformer,
which reduces the lZ0v current of the supply cable.

Wear goggles.
If the hole saw is the right size for the
can, you won't need to enlarge it. But for
the light shown here, the saw was a shade
too small, so the installer used a jab saw to
enlarge the hole slightly

O. In a pinch, you

can also use just a jab saw.

Test-fit the unit

O. Although

you want

the can to fit snugly, the unit's junction

box and transformer also need to fit
through. The black box about to enter
the hole is the transformer.

88 1 CU T TING A CEILING HOLE FOR RECESSED LIGHTING

S0 G

iW~~

, II 1:

TRADE SECRET

To minimize hitting pipes or cables when

drilling into a ceiling, use a bit that's 1 in.
long-just long enough to drill through the
plaster or drywall. Use a cordless drill
to further reduce the chances of shocks.

CUTTING A CEILING HOLE FOR RECESSED LIGHTING

I 89

WIRING A RECESSED FIXTURE

o wire a recessed fixture, remove

a Romex knockout from the un it's

integral junction box

O. Inside the

knockout, there is a spring-loaded,

strain-relief clamp that will grip the
incoming cable, so you don't need to
insert a Romex connector. Run a length
of (unconnected) Romex cable from
the nearest power source (power off,
of course) and feed it into the knockout
just removed. (To wire the box with AC
or Me cable, remove one the circu lar
1/2-in. knockouts and insert an appropriate connector.)

~ For more on connectors, see p. 36.

Inside the fixture's junction box will
be two sets of wires that were spliced
at the factory. They connect the sec-

ondary wires that run from the transformer to the socket. (At the transformer, the current is reduced from
120v to 12v, so polarity is no longer
an issue.) There are also three unconnected fixture leads in the box, to
which you'll splice the supply wires

O.

Using wire connectors, connect the

incoming ground wire to the green
fixture lead, the incoming neutral to
the white lead, and the hot wire to the
black fixture lead

O.

Tuck the spliced wire groups into the

fixture junction box

O. At the right of

the photo is a piece of threaded rod

that can be adjusted to support the
transformer at the correct height. Snap
shut the junction box cover

O. As with

other outlet boxes, Code determines

the number of wires you can splice in a
fixture junction box, based on the cubic
inches in the box.

TRADE
SECRET
If you have access
to the space above,

staple the Romex to a

jOist, leaving at least

12 in. of free cable

so you can push the
fixture components
into the hole. A cable

that's too short may

prevent this.

90

I WIRING A RECESSED FIXTURE

S0 G

SECURING THE CAN

The pros apply

a tiny dab of antioxidant
paste to the lamp pins
before seating them in
a fixture socket to
prevent oxidation.
A good practice,

but not imperative.

nee the recessed lighting fixture has

been wired, push the fixture into the

hole, being careful not to bind the Romex

cable as you do so

O. If the fit is snug, use

back face of the drywall to hold the fixture

snugly in place O . To remove the fixture
later, pop out the cl ips.
In sert the bulb (the fixture here uses an

the side of your fist to seat the lip of the

MR-16 bi-pin halogen bulb) into the fixture

fixture flush to the ceiling O.

Use a screwdriver to push up the spring-

socket O. Here, the installer is gripping

the lamp's reflector, not the bulb itself. Th e

loaded clips that pivot and press against the

lamp pins shou ld seat securely. Insta!! the

trim piece-this one has a watertight gasket.

Snap in the lamp and socket and push the
assembly up into the can. The three arm s on
the side of the assembly wi!! grip the insid e
of the can

O.

SECURING THE CAN

I 91

UNDERCABINET FLUORESCENT FIXTURES

osition undercabinet fluorescent fjxtures

up the housing with one hand and use a

means taking the unit apart and starting all

to give you the countertop light cover-

cordless screw gun in the other.

over. Also, avoid locating the wire connec-

Snap on the wiring compartment

age you want in each area. If you're running

0,

tors too near the ballast. which may keep

Romex cab le to the fixture, you must protect

which contains numerous prewired connec-

the cover from shutting. Screw in the cover

it, either by placing the fixture flush against

tions and the ballast (the white rectangle

screws that secure the wiring compartment.

the back of the cabinet or by covering the

seen at the right in the photos). Use wire

Romex with a piece of trim. If you prefer to

connectors to splice the fixture leads to

O. (Extend

stone, then rotate the bulb clockwise to

place the fixture out from the wall, you can

the supply wires

also run Me cable, which can be left exposed.

wi r e ends beyond the ends of the solid

seat the pins in the sockets

-+ For more on Me cable, see pp. 31 and 204.

wires so that the wire connectors engage

ing fluorescent bulbs, grab them close to

the stranded wires first.)

their ends and never force the lamps into

~ For more on spllclnCJ stranded wire.

see p. 37 or the Trade Secret on p. 64.

the plastic diffuser (lens) of the fixture into

Run the supply cable to the fixture location. Allow at least 12 in. of cable inside the

the stranded

As with most fluorescent tubes, insert

their end pins into the slots in each key-

through a knockout in back of the housing

ing to the underside of the cabinet

O . Ho td

place-they should seat easily. Finally, snap

place. Be gentle because the diffusers break

fixture to facilitate wire splices. Remove the

As you shut the wiring compartment. do

sheathing and then feed the supply wires

shell. Clamp the cable, then screw the hous-

O. When turn -

eas ily O .

your best to keep the wires neat and compact

O. Messy wires are more likely to get

pinched by the cover and short out-which

UNDERCABINET FLUORESCENT FIXTURE

As with incandescent and halogen
fixtures . there are also lowvoltage
fluorescent fixtures that have a
t ransforme r. Fixtures also va ry to
accommodate different tube shapes.

Ground
Supply
wires

Ground

Lens/Diffuser

Housing _ _ _",,--J

--------Fluorescent
tube

compartment
Socket

92 1 UNDERCABINET FLUORESCENT FIXTURES

Keystone- style
socket

UNOERCAB I NET FLUORESCENT F I XTURES

I 93

LOW-VOLTAGE SYSTEMS
Safety and
low-voltage
systems
Experienced electricians
often handle low-voltage
tracks while those parts
are energized-with 12v
of current-downstream
from the transformer.
If you install your lovo
system correctly, and
are careful never to
touch the supply wires
that run to the trans
former, you can touch
energized lovo tracks
and install light fixtures
without getting shocked.
But if you have any confusion about which wires
are 120v and which are
12v, shut the power off
before doing any work on
your lovo system. Best
to be too cautious
and stay safe.

Low-voltaqe tracks are safe to touch, but you should shut off power to the
circuit anyway.

ow-voltage lighting systems are installed

energy efficient; plus, their bulbs are easier

inside and outside houses and typically

to direct, enabling you to highlight a paint-

shock. On the low-voltage side, there is a

ing or a work area. Lo-va bulbs come in a

potentia l to short the system and damage

the transformer.

operate on lZv current. so they require a

120v power, which could de liver a fatal

transformer to reduce standard house volt-

greater range of options than do incandes

age from 120v. Transformers vary-some are

cent bulbs ; and, in general, la-vQ bulbs offer

coil-wound magnets, whe reas others are

prel iminary check of the system, it's safe

electronic-so follow the installation instruc-

a better quality of light. La-va systems can

be controlled by standard switches or dim-

tions provided with your unit.

mers, but you should check the literature

high-intensity bulb can get very hot, do

-+ see
For more on low-volt.f)e systems,
p. 233.

that comes with your system.

not install any cable fixtures within 4 in.

Though it 's safe to touch the t racks of

a lo-vo system, you should turn off the

Lo-vo systems have become extremely

After installing all the parts and doing a

to energize the system. (Note: Because any

of a combustible surface.) Track-lighting

systems are inherently complex, so read

power when working on the system . The

the instructions carefully before you begin

popular because they're safer (12v is roughly

upstream part of the system (between the

the installation.

the same vol tage as a car battery) and

transformer and the power source) has

94 1 LOW VOLTAGE SVSTEMS

-0

INSTALLING LOW-VOLTAGE CABLE LIGHTING

Track lighting systems may have a remote transformer or a

they are to keep position when the cable is tensioned. Cables

surfaceamounted transformer. There Is also a range of cable

are typically spaced 4'/2 in. or 8 in. apart. The illustration

standoff supports, both rigid and adjustable, mounting to

has been adapted from installation instructions for a product

from Alfa Lighting Systems; your Instructions may vary.

walls and ceilings; they must be mounted solidly to framing if

H---"-'-

Turnbuckle

'------'-H -----:-'-'- Stranded cable

(conductor)

Standoff

assembly-----'-rl---i+'
,I

ANCHORING LOW-VOLTAGE STANDOFFS

he key to a good-looking, correctly

functioning cable system is getting the

cables taut and leve l. Thus your first task in

installing a lo-va system is finding solid locations in which to anchor the cables. In this
installation, the principle anchors were stand-

offs in each corner so the cable could be

stretched around the perimete r of the room.
Alternatively, you can anchor standoffs in a
cei ling to support cables and bulbs . Standoffs are also called rerouters because cables
often change direction as they emerge.
Use a laser level to establish level anchor-

Sink the anchors into the framinq.

ing points around the room. Predrill holes in

the plaste r for anchor screws

O. Plaster is

harder than drywall and there may be lath

nails in the way, so wear goggles and ha ve
extra drill bits on hand.

ANCHOR I NG LOW -VOLTAGE STANDOFFS

I 95

ANCHORING LOW-VOLTAGE STANDOFFS (CONTINUED)

Because cables will be stretched taut,
standoff anchors must be screwed to wood

framing-in this case, into doubled studs

in the corner

O. Use screws at least 2 in.

long to attach the anchors. After sliding a

chrome base plate (washer) over the anchor,
screw the standoff socket to the exterior
threading of the anchor

O. Insert the ball

end of the fiberglass rod into the standoff

socket

O. This ball-and-socket assembly

allows the standoff to swivel freely so you

can fine-tune the cable positions. The cables
will be spaced 4 112 in. apart.

RUNNING CABLE

he next step in installing this system is to

run the cable. Note the standoff at the top

of photo

O. Because the walls in this room

were only 12 ft. apart. both cables could be run

through a single angled standoff with two slotted posts. If the walls are farther apart, you may
need a cable support in the middle of the run.
Measure the cable length you need and cut it
3 in. to 4 in . longer than your measurement so
you can insert the ends into turnbuckles without having to strugg le. Once you tighten the
turnbuckles and tension the cable you can snip
off any excess cable . On the other hand, if you
cut a cable too short, you'll have to discard it
and start again with a new piece.
Place each cable into a slotted post. rather
than pulling it through the slot, whose sharp
edges can cut into stranded cable

a.(This is

a quirk of the particular system shown here;

other standoff types allow you to pull cable
more freely.)
After placing the cable into a slotted post,
screw on the post cap to keep it from popping
out when the cable is tensioned

O. As you

place the cable into the subsequent standoffs,

loosely tension it to take up the slack

O. With

this system, the second cable will be about

4 1/2 in . from the first.

96 1 RUNN ING CABLE

Screw on the standoff socket.

-0

TENSIONING CABLES
orrectly installed, the cables of a low-

voltage system should be more or less

horizontal and equally spaced (parallel along

their length). As with most systems. this
installation uses turnbuckles to tighten the
cables after they have been placed in the
standoffs. The cables' Kevlar core prevents
stretching or sagging once the lig htweight
fixtures have been installed.
Once you've loosely run the cable, insert
an end into a turnbuckle

O. The cable

end feeds in the end of the turnbuckle and

exits in a slot in the middle. Tighten the
setscrew(s) on the assembled turnbuckle to
keep the cable from pulling out, then trim
the excess cable sticking out

O. Don't rush

trimming the cable: Wait until you've made

final adjustments to the whole layout before
trimming.
A turnbuckle's center post has a thumbscrew with threads on both ends. As you
turn the thumbscrew in one direction, it
draws tight both ends of a cable; turn in
the opposite direction to slacken cable tension

O. With cable attached to both sides of

a turnbuckle, the installer may struggle to

draw the cable tight enough to join them

O.

This is a good reason not to trim the cable

unti l the turnbuckle starts tightening both
ends.
A certai n amount of adjustme nt is
necessary after both cables are taut.
He re, the installe r adjusts the cables so
that the standoff comes out of the corner
at a 45-degree angle, thus ensuring that
the wires wi ll be equidistant

O.

When working
with stranded cable,
tape the cable ends
and then cut in the
middle of the tape
to keep the strands
from unraveling.

TENSIONING CABLES

I 97

LOCATING THE CANOPY

nee the tensioned cable has

been installed, you'll need

to locate the canopy. The canopy

(also called a canopy feed) receives

lowvoltage current from the transformer and delivers it to the cables.

The canopy mounts to a junction
box on the ceiling or wall and should

fit flush to the finish surface.

Before installing the canopy,
make its holes- or those of lts
mounting bracket-line up to the
holes of the junction box you'll be
installing in the wall or ceiling

O.

The slotted mounting bar on the

back of this two-wire canopy can fit
several box widths.

If the canopy will be ceiling

mounted, drill a hole for it. To mini'
mize the mess, use a hole-cutting
tool with a dust cover

O. Note: A

screw gun with a l/2-in . chuck will

accept large-shank tools such as

the one shown here. Set the holecutt ing tool's blade to the diameter
of the junction box

O. For large

holes, this tool has a counterweight

that attaches to the right side
of the cutting bar to balance the
torque of the blade.
Hold the cover of the tool snug
against the ceiling so it can contain
the dust

O. Wait a few seconds for

the dust to settle inside the cover

before lowering the tool.

TRADE SECRET
Fixture canopies are
often polished chrome,
which is easy to cloud
with fingerprints. Wearing
lightweight plastic gloves
solves the problem; nitrile
plastic gloves are especially
flexible.

98 1 LOCATING THE CANOPY

-0

MOUNTING THE BOX & WIRING THE TRANSFORMER

fter the canopy has been located, it's

t ime to mount the box and wire the

Install the transformer above the insulation so that its vents work properly and

O. Run

transformer. The transformer shown here

the unit can be accessed easily

permits 12v or 24v wiring. Your installation

the secondary (to-va) cable between the

may vary, so follow the instructions provided.

transformer and the ceiling box, stapling

When retrofitting a ceiling box, bend up

it within 12 in. of a box and every 4 ft. along

O. Feed the other end of the la'vo

O. The gray

the bar tabs to make them easier to nail or

its run

screw. Extend the support bar until its tabs

cable into the transformer

are snug against joists, adjust the height of

cable connectors are one-way clamps: easy

the bar so the box is flush to the ceiling, and

to insert but difficult to pull out.

then screw the tabs to joists

O.

~ For more on Installln; cellln; boxes.

see p. 85.

Run the supply cable (120v) from an existing outlet to the transformer

O. Protect the

cable by stapl ing it to the side of a joist or to

a runner added for the purpose.

MOUNTING THE BOX & WIRING THE TRANSfORMER

I 99

MOUNTING THE BOX & WIRING THE TRANSFORMER (CONTINUED)

After stripping 1/2 in. of insulation off the wire

shown, and the primary hot wire to one of the tap

ends, use wire connectors to splice the secondary

terminals. Tighten the terminal screws to grip the

wires, which run from the transformer to the ceil-

wires

ing box

O. Next, splice the primary ground wires,

using a wire connector. Then connect the primary

neutral to the common (neutral) terminal . as

100

O.

Close the transformer cover to protect the connections inside

MOUNTING THE BOX & WIRING THE TRANSfORMER

O.

-0

INSTALLING THE CANOPY

O . When

he canopy is installed after the trans-

screws on the canopy terminals . Soldered

the mounting screws

former has been wired. Install the

wire is also less likely to arc and overheat

bottom out on the screws, continue turning

the nuts

mounting bracket to the new cei ling box; it

O. (Note the tiny Allen wrench inserted into

the cap nuts, which will turn the extra-long

will support the canopy that supplies la-va

the setscrew on the right of the photo.)

screws back up into the box . This will make

power to the cables

O. The wire hanging

Use mounting screws that are long

from the box is the secondary (la-va) cable

enough to extend beyond the canopy face

from the transformer.

0 ; they're faster to install than short

Separate and strip the two wires in the

la-Va cable and solder their ends. Soldering
fine-strand wire makes it solid and unlikely
to smash flat as you tighten down the set

the canopy nice and snug.

screws because they give you room to

maneuver.
Slide the canopy over the mounting
screws and turn the canopy cap nuts onto

INSTALLING THE CANOPY

I 101

ATTACHING THE FEED RODS & FIXTURES

he final task for installing a low-voltage

system is adding the feed rods and fix'

tures. The feed rods transfer low-voltage cur-

prov ide horizontal connectors for this purpose, eliminating the need for bending.
Bend the first rod and test-fit it. using a

Insert the bulbs into the fixtures before

you attach fixtures to the cables. If your
system uses halogen bulbs, don 't touch

rent from the canopy terminals to the cables.

torpedo level to ensure that the rod is plumb

them with your bare hands because the oil

Setscrews on the terminals secure the rods.

and the cable is still level O. If the first rod

in your skin will shorten the bulb life. In gen-

Because the canopy is centered over the

two cables, you may need to bend the feed

fits well, use it as a template for the second .

Repeat the process with the second feed

eral, fixtures need to connect both cables

to become energized, so each fixture has a

rods to bring them to the cables O. Secure

the rods in a vise between two wood scraps

rod. Note that rod ends are slotted like the

standoff posts that anchor the cables in the

(to minimize marring the finish) and bend

corners of the room. A cap nut screws on to

them at the point equal to the distance from

the slotted rod end to capture the cable

the canopy to the cables. Some systems will

102 1 ATTACHING THE FEED RODS

& fiXTURES

O.

crossbar that spans the cables. Hand-tighten

the fixture connectors so they're snug O.
After you'll installed alt the fixtures and surveyed the system, turn on the power

O.

INSTALLING LOW-VOLTAGE
MONORAIL TRACK LIGHTING
In the Installation shown, the transformer Is surface-mounted In
a circular housing. Although the transformer housing must be
mounted to a ceiling box to be adequately supported, individual
standoff supports can be anchored In drywall or plaster alone

because the track and fixtures are lightweight. The illustrations

have been adapted from installation instructions from a product
by Tech Lightingsl.t; your instructions may be different.

..........
",

"'"

~"

efore installing la-vo monorail track lighting,

turn off the power at the breaker panel or

fuse box. As with any low-voltage system, a trans-

....

-'. .
.......
"

In cross-section, t he monorail track is two

square pieces of ch rome-plated copper conductor
sandwiched togethe r wit h a clear (insulating) plas-

former will reduce the 120v current to 12v or 24v.

tic piece. Although the track is sturdy, it can be

Because monorail track systems have a lot of small

bent freehand or shaped against a curved piece

parts that are eas ily lost, don't open the packages

of plywood .

until you're ready to use the parts.

INSTALLING LOW-VOLTAGE MONORAIL TRACK LIGHTING 1 103

LOCATING THE TRACK & STANDOFFS

f possible, before working overhead, shape

the track sections of your monorai l system

and preassemble them on the floor, then use

a plumb bob or laser level to plumb up to the
ceiling. If there's an obstruction in the room
you'll have to improvise. First determine
where you'll place the transformer box for
the system, then mark off the standoffs that

will mount the track to the ceiling .

With a helper holding one end, hold sections of the track against the ceiling and
mark off standoff points at the track ends,
where sections meet, and at intervals sug-

gested by the fixture maker-usually, every

3 ft.

O. Standoffs have multiple parts, which

anchor them to the ceiling and support the

track (See "Standoff Parts" below).
Fortunately, because the track weighs
little, you can mount standoffs almost anywhere on a drywall or plaster ceiling, using

auger anchors with wide threads. (That is,

you don't need to mount standoffs to framing.) Sink the anchors flush, then screw a
threaded washer to each anchor

O. Then,

using a setscrew, screw the standoff base to

that threaded washer

O.

Mount all the standoffs so that when you

raise the monorail again, you can attach it
quickly to the standoffs and to the bottom
of the transformer housing. If you need
to reposition a standoff or two, it's easy
to patch the small holes left by misplaced
standoff anchors.

STANDOFF PARTS
Standoff supports
for monorail track
systems consist
of many small
parts.

104 1 LOCATING THE TRACK

& STANDOffS

Clockwise,
from top left:
auqer anchor,
threaded washer,
screw, standoff post, Allen
wrench, housinq,
housinq nipple.

MOUNTING & WIRING THE TRANSFORMER

nce the standoffs are installed, mount

piece of the housing snug against the ceil ing

the ceiling box to a ceiling joist and

box, slip a washer over the end of the nipple,

tug on spliced wires to be sure-close the

and then tighten the inside nut that secures

transformer housing by snapping the bot-

the transformer housing O. The circular

mass inside the housing is a magnetic trans-

tom to the top and tightening the setscrews

attach the bracket that will support the

transformer

O. In this case, a nipple screws

into the bracket and runs through the center

of the transformer housing. The supply wires
sticking out of the box will connect to the

former, which has a series of copper coils.

ary leads preattached, so that the installer

~ For more on mountln9 boxes, see p. 85.

need only splice supply wires to the primary

fixture leads. Using the wire connectors pro-

Feed the supply wires into the center of

vided, splice the ground wires first, then the

0 , push the top

neutral leads, and finally hot wires

provided O. (By the way, the fat striped

wires are secondary leads, which run from
the transformer to the lo-vo power feed that

Many transformers come with second-

primary leads on the transformer.

the transformer housing

all the wire connections are snug - gently

energizes the track.)

O. When
MOUN T ING & WIRING THE TRANSfORMER 1 105

HANGING THE TRACK

ith the transformer se-

cured and the standoffs

installed in the ceiling, you're

ready to hang the track. Get
help supporting the track until
you have two or three points
secured. Place the track into
the standoff housing-the lowest
piece on that assembly-then
screw on the housing nipple O.
Once that's done, tighten the
setscrew that holds the nipple to
the support rai l.
Where track sections meet,
join them with conductive connectors and support the junction with a standoff

a.Once

the track is supported at several

points, loosely attach the housing and nipple assemblies at several points, slide them beneath
the support rails, and use an
Allen wrench to tighten the setscrews that join the nipples to
the rails

O. Make sure the con-

nections are tight.

Because the housing on the
bottom of the transformer has
setscrews on the side and the
bottom, you'll need two different sizes of Allen wrenches.
Loosen the small screw on the
side of the housing nipple so you
can turn it onto the threads of
the housing. Once the nipple is

w.~

tight on the housing, retighten

' II 1

that small screw. Then use a

3/16 -in .

Allen wrench to tighten

the setscrew on the bottom of

the housing

O. Finally, retighten

all connections and place end

caps on the ends of the track

O.

5
106 1 HANGING THE TRACK

Place end caps at the end of each run.

TRADE SECRET

II you can't lind anyone

to help you support
the track, bend short
lengths 01 coat hanger
into Z-shaped hanger
brackets. Drill 1/4 -in. holes
into the ceiling and insert
one end of the bracket; the
other end supports the
track. Once the track is up,
remove the hangers and
patch the holes with joint
compound.

INSTALLING THE LIGHT FIXTURES

nee the monorail tracks are installed,

can be shortened if necessary, allowing you

you can add the light fixtures. The

to install the pendant lights at the same or

fixtures require a two-part assembly that

varying heights O. Once you've adjusted

straddles the monorail track; note that,

the pendant cables, tighten the fixture

in this case, the housing and nipp les are

nipple to the housing nipple on the track

inverted. Insert the housing on top of the

track and the nipple on the bottom

O. Screw

the pieces together, insert the shaft of the

light fixture into the inverted nipple

a, then

screw the fixture nipple onto the threaded

housing nipple and hand tighten it.
Attaching the pendant lights is similar,

O.

Most manufacturers recommend energizing the system and then turning the lights

Support pendant lights with

braided cable.

Retighten all
connections after
the first 10-20
hours of use.

on for 20 minutes or 30 minutes before

checking the monorail connections to see if
any are hot to the touch. Warm is normal, but
hot connections should be retightened

O.

Do not. however, touch any halogen lights;

although the light pendants use braided

they are certain to be hot enough to burn

cable rather than a solid shaft. Braided cable

you (which is normal).

INSTALLING THE LIGHT FI XTURES

I 107

----,1

EPAIRING
OW-VOLTAGE
ONTROLS
EPAIRING LOW-VOLTAGE
controls will be famlll.r territory
If you've re.d the e.rller chapters
on switches and Installln, II,ht fixtures.
Basically, doorbell buttons and thermostats
are switches. To repair or replace doorbell
units, thermostats, and transformers, you'll
need only basic tools such as those needed
to Install switches or II,htln,. And like lowvolta,e II,htln" doorbell units and thermostats are ener,lzed by a transformer, which

108

reduces house volta,e. You can safely test

or handle .xlstln, low-volta,e wires without
turnln, off the power. But because transformers are ener,lzed with 120v house
current, you must always turn off the power
before testln, or repalrln, a transformer
or wires upstream-those that run from the
transformer to a power source. Thus an
Inductance tester and a multlmeter are
essential tools to keep you safe.

FLUKE

109

TROUBLESHOOTING A DOORBELL

A more thorough testing

use the term chimes to denote either. In many cases, the plunger

their bare ends together to perform several tests. If the chimes sound

roubleshooting a doorbell system takes a li ttle detective work. On

older systems, the problem is usually the ch im e or bell unit-we'll

O. If the switch wires

springs on the chimes become compressed, resulting in chimes that

when you join the wires, the switch is defective

no longer ring predictably-or at all. Corrosion or dust buildup can

spark when you touch them but the chimes don't ring, test the chimes

also silence chimes. Try the tests given here to determine whether

as shown in "Testing Chimes," on p. 112.

the problem is the switch, the chimes, the transformer, or the wiring
between the transformer and the switch.

it out from the wall to expose its connections on the back side

O.

Disconnect one of the wires and, using a continuity tester, touch the
tester clip to one switch termina l and the tester point to the other.
Press the button: If the tester lights as you depress the button, the
switch works

O. If not, the switch is faulty and should be replaced.

I TROUBLESHOOTING A DOORBELL

If there's no spark when you touch the switch wires, use a voltmeter to test the transformer output

Start by testing the doorbell switch. Unscrew it and gently pull

110

Alternatively, you can detach both wires from the switch and touch

O.

If the transformer is working, you'll need to replace the wiring

to the doorbell switch or install a wireless system.

SINGLE DOORBELL WIRING

Perhaps the trickiest part of low-voltage repairs is running the cab le. If you're replacing dead lo-vo wires, such
as those running to a doorbell, try to twist and tape new
low-voltage wires to the old ones and pull them through
the walls. Because low-voltage wire is thin, it's flexible

In a single doorbell system, the circuit runs from the transformer

to the doorbell switch, from the switch to the chime unit, and then
back to the transformer. By pressing the doorbell, you complete
the circuit, and the chime unit rings.

and much easier to pull than Romex.

If you must drill through an exterior wall to bring lowvoltage wiring into a room, avoid hitting cables that may
be hidden in the walls . The safest place to drill is generall y low on the wa ll, away from studs.
~ See "Flshlnq Cable," p. 191 and "Pulllnq Cable," p. 197.

Power source
(120v)

As shown in the rough -in sequences on p. 197, most

house Circuits are routed horizontally about 2 ft. high
and secured to studs before entering outlet boxes. If you
drilt below that height and between studs, chances are

Outlet box-,,~

good that you'll avoid hitting cables. To further reduce

any chance of getting a shock, use a cord less drill for
this task.
Once you' ve found the right location, drill from the
interior of the house downward to keep water from running into the walls.
~ See photo 2, p. 125.

After pulling the cable, fill the hole with siliconized

latex caulk, which, unlike pure silicon, is paintable. When

Doorbell
switch

' - - - - - - - - T"'"5 terminal

running low-voltage wire, staple it at least every foot to

prevent sagging, strains on connections, and an unsightIyappearance.

WARNING
\:.....7 It's safe to handle the energized low"
voltage wires that run from the transformer
to the doorbell switch or from the chimes to
the switch. However, because 120v current
can harm you, turn off the power before
testing or repairing a transformer or the
wires upstream-that is, toward the power
source-as shown in the upper right drawing.

TROUBLESHOOTING A DOORBE LL

I 111

TROUBLESHOOTING A DOORBELL (CONTINUED)

DOUBLE DOORBELL WIRING
A double doorbell
system has two circuits,
each controlled by a
doorbell switch, whose
power comes from the
transformer. Thus the
chime unit for a double
doorbell has three terminals. Typically. the chime
unit has two different
ring patterns (dinq and
dinq-donq) so you can tell
whether the visitor is at
the front or rear door.

- +-::-f---+Cl--+f- Junction box

Power source
(120v)

box

-tr--Back
doorbell
switch

doorbell
switch

L---=~!!!!!"!"""~_ Rear terminal

Trans terminal

Testing chimes

If the chimes don't ring when you

touch the doorbell switch wires together, remove the
chime cover and vacuum out accumulated crud. If the
chime plungers are rusty or corroded, spray them with
WD-40 or a similar lubricant and move them by hand
to get them sliding freely. Rubbing screw terminals with
steel wool may improve electrical contacts. But chances
are the old unit is worn out and needs to be replaced.
To find out, dial a multimeter AC setting that's close
to the low-voltage rating on the chime unit, then touch
the tester probes to the trans and front terminals and
to the trans and rear terminals, as shown in the photo
at right. If you get a reading close to the unit's rating
but the chimes won't ring, the transformer is delivering
power, but the chime unit is defective. Replace it.

112

I TROUBLESHOOTI NG A DOORBELL

Test the chime terminals using a multi meter.

REPLACING A DOORBELL SWITCH

eplace a doorbell swit ch if it sticks, it is

damaged, or cont inuit y no longer exists

between the contacts when the switch is

depressed. You may also decide t o upgrade
simply because you wa nt a newer style.
Unscrew the low-volt age wi r es and pull
them out from t he box fo r easy access . If
th ey show co rrosion, scra pe or sa nd th e
wires lig htly. Once the wires ar e clea n and
ex posed, sc r ew th em t o the t erminals on
the new doo r bell switc h. Then screw the
new swit ch t o the wall.

Choosing a new
doorbell When replacing
a doorbell switch/button pay
close attention to the existing
mounting holes. Purchase a
replacement button that has
the same hole pattern or a
larger hole pattern. Installing
a replacement button that is
smaller than the original will
require patching and painting
of the original holes, which
can be difficult and, depending
on the mounting surface, may
add to the amount of work
necessary to complete the
project. Installing a button
with a hole pattern that does
not match the existing button,
but is close, can lead to problems when trying to install
new screws too close to
the existing screw holes.

Screw the old wires to the terminals on the new switch .

REPLACING A DOORBELL SWITCH

I 113

INSTALLING A CHIME UNIT

nee you've determined that the

old chime is defective, unscrew

the low-voltage wires from their terminals and unscrew the mounting
screws that secure the unit to the
wall. As you carefu lly remove the
old unit, hold on to the low-voltage
wires 50 they don't fall into the wal l.
If the exposed wires are especially
short, it's a good idea to tape them
to the walt with duct tape.
After making sure the new unit
has the same voltage rating as

the old unit, remove it from the

packaging. Feed the low-voltage
wires through the access hole in
the new unit O . Level the unit's
housing and then screw it to the
wall. Because chime units are lightweight and instal led in out-of-theway places, it's seldom necessary
to screw the chimes to the framing .
It's usually sufficient simply to
screw them to drywall or plaster

O.

If the low-voltage wires look

corroded or cracked and there 's
enough extra wire, snip their bare
ends and restrip them. Then use
needle-nose pliers to loop the ends
clockwise

O. Place the looped ends

on the unit's terminals, exerting

a slight pressure on the wires to
keep them from slipping off as
you tighten the screw terminals

O.

After you tighten the screw terminals, press the doorbell switch to
test the new chimes. If they work
correctly, snap on the unit's protective cover

O.

114 1 INSTALLING A CHIME UNIT

TRADE SECRET
If doorbell wires are
defective, try twisting
new wires to the old ones,
taping the splice, and
pulling the new wires
through the walls. If you
don't succeed, install
a wireless doorbell and
chime system instead.

INSTALLING A DOORBELL TRANSFORMER

doorbell transformer can be attached to

any junction box that has enough room

to accommodate the add itional wire splices

and is close enough to the doorbell switch
that running wires to it is practical. But

be~

cause junction boxes house wires with 120v

voltage, you need to shut off the power to

the junction box, carefully remove its cover,
and then test to be sure the power is off

O.

Once you've confirmed that no power

is present, use a screwdriver or sturdy
pliers to remove a knockout from the junc+
tion box

O. Feed the new transformer's

wires through the knockout open in g O.

Tighten the transformer's mounting screw
to draw the unit tight to the junction box and
cover the knockout opening

O . (There is no

need for Romex cable clamps or the like.)

If there is a green grounding wire from
the transformer, screw it to the metal
junction box, using a green grounding
screw. If the box is plastic, splice the transformer's ground wire to the ground wire
of the supply cable.
Strip the ends of the transformer wires
and use twist-on wire con nectors to splice
them to the 120v supply wires . Splice like
to like: Splice the hot (red or black) transformer wire to the hot supply wire; the neutral (white) transformer wire to the neutral
supply wire

O.

Once you have spliced the wires, tuck

them into the junction box and replace the
cover (the base of a porcelain light fixture is
shown in the photo). Then connect the lowvoltage wires to the screw terminals on the
transformer

O. Turn on the power and test

the system .

w,,~

TRADE SECRET

, II 1

Before installing a new trans~

former, make sure it has the
same voltage rating as the old
one. The voltage rating should be
stamped somewhere on the trans~
former housing.

INSTALLING A DOORBELL TRANSfORMER

I 115

TESTING AN OLD THERMOSTAT

f your thermostat is a low-voltage

unit, it gets its reduced voltage

from a transformer. If the thermostat doesn't turn the furnace on

and off, remove its cover to see if
it's clogged with dust or if the wires
are loose

O.

Remove dust using a

small painter's brush and reattach

loose wires.

If the thermostat still doesn't

work, use a continuity tester or a
multi meter set to ohms (resistance)
to test the unit. Unscrew the lowvoltage wire attached to the R terminal and touch the tester probes
to the Rand W terminals. As you
hold the probes to the terminals ,

flip or turn the setting lever from

one side to the other

O.

If the continuity tester lights up

or the mu lti meter shows any reading at all, the thermostat works and
the problem is the transformer. If
there's no light or no meter reading, the thermostat is defective.
Disconnect the remaining wire(s)
and remove the unit

O.

116 1 TESTING AN OLD THERMOSTAT

specialized switches
that open or close a circuit
in response to temperature
changes. Although most
thermostats are low
voltage units that are
safe to handle, your unit
may be unsafe to handle if
it mounts to an electrical
box and is connected to
house wiring. Shut off the
power, test to be sure it's
off, disconnect the thermo
stat, and have a heating
professional assess it.

INSTALLING A PROGRAMMABLE THERMOSTAT

-- ...
M

hough most thermostats are installed

in the same way, be sure to follow the

Make sure the thermostat works and then program the unit.

Clockwise around screw terminals. Many

modern units have batteries that need to be

installation instructions that come with

changed periodically. You may also need to

your programmable unit. Most thermostats

set a switch on the back of the thermostat

require leveling to function properly

O. Once

plate to select the type of heat (electric, oil,

O. Replace the thermostat's cover,

the unit is on the wall, attach the existing

or gas)

low-vo ltage wires to the designated terminals

consult the instructions, and program the

on the new unit

O. Either insert the stripped

wire ends into push-in clamps or loop them

c:::
~--..... c:::

unit O.

but its temperature settings

are too high or low, it may
need to be plumbed or leveled.
Remove its cover and look for
a pair of plumb or leveling
marks on the base.

INSTALLING A PROGRAMMABLE THERMOSTAT

1117

REPLACING A FURNACE TRANSFORMER

f your thermostat isn't getting power, the furnace transformer may be defective. If your furnace is relatively new,

the transformer will be inside the furnace housing-in which

case, call a HVAC (heating, cooling, air-conditioning) specialist to assess and replace it. New HVAC units are sensitive
and complicated. However, jf the transformer is mounted to
a junction box on the outside of the housing, it's relatively
easy to replace.
Set your multi meter to a low-voltage AC setting and
touch its probes to the two terminals of the transformer

O.

If there's no reading, replace the transformer. Begin by

shutting off the power and then using a voltage tester to be
sure it's off. Then remove the old transformer and unscrew
the cover on the junction box. (In the example shown here,
the transformer and box cover are an integra! unit.) After
removing the cover, test the exposed house wires again to
be sure the power's off.
Use a screwdriver or a sturdy pair of pliers to remove a
knockout on the side of the box and insert the wire leads
of the new transformer into the opening

O. Tighten the

diagonal screw that mounts the transformer to the junction

box, then screw the transformer's green grounding wire to
the metal box using a green grounding screw. If the box is
plastic, splice the transformer's ground wire to the ground
wire of the supply cable. Use wire connectors to splice like
wire groups: connect the transformer's hot lead (black) to
the hot supply wire and the neutral lead (white) to the neutral supply wire

O.

After making these connections-but before covering the

junction box-turn the power back on. Touch the probes on
the multimeter to the transformer terminals to make sure
the new unit functions normally O. Then turn the power off
again. Snip, strip, and loop the existing Jow-voltage wires as
needed and attach them to the transformer terminals

O.

Finally, gently push the wire splices back into the junction
box and screw the cover in place

O.

WARNING
","~7

Make sure the new transformer is properly

rated for the furnace. Check the voltage rating
stamped on the old transformer or look inside
the cover of the furnace, which will list the
low-voltage requirement for the transformer.

118 1 REPLACING A fURNACE TRANSfORMER

REPLACING A FURNACE TRANSFORMER

1119

ULTIMEDIA
M

UL TIMEDIA ENCOMPASSES various types of video, sound, voice,

and data slCJnals, and have multiple

format options. WlrlnCJ multimedia outlets
and distribution panels Is somewhat like assembllnQ a computer, thouQh prefabricated
modules and InterchanQeable parts make
home wlrlnCJ fairly stralCJhtforward.
The tools and methods used to Install
cables are similar to those used to Install

lZ0

basic residential electrical circuits. Whether

you're addlnCJ a phone Jack to exlstlnCJ service or InstalllnCJ a media distribution panel,
you'll need only a few specialized tools, such
as a 10nCJ, flexible drill bit If you'll be runnlnCJ
wires throuQh walls. Multimedia connections
are extremely precise, so It's Important
to follow Installation Instructions exactly
to ensure stronQ slQnals throuQhout your
sound, video, phone, and data networks.

I 121

lTE

(10

MULTIMEDIA CABLE & CONNECTORS

ere's an overview of t he cable and (onnectors you'll need to wire your house for

sound, video, data, and telephone service:

Coaxial cable

includes double-shielded RG6

and RG59 cab le and single (opper-shielded

RG59. RG6 cable has a sl ightly thicker wire

..

gauge than does GR59. Used for video distribution (cable TV), coaxial cable has been around
for years. Video cable terminates in an F-(onnectar such as the watertight RG6 connector
shown in the photo at right. To simplify life and
forestall callbacks, many professiona l electricians install watertight F-connectors inside
and out .

Data cable can carry data or phone signals;

it is typically 24-guage, solid-wire unshielded

Each multimedia connector is to the left of the cable It terminates. From left:
RG6 F-connector, dual-shielded RG6 coaxial cable; RJ-45 (elqht-pln) Jack, Cat 6 UTP
data cable; RJ-11 (Six-pin) Jack, Cat 3 phone cable; two audio jacks (sometimes called
banana jacks), 14-qauqe low-loss audio cable.

twisted pair (UTP) cable. Although Category

(Cat) 5e cable meets present-day standards
for data transmission, Cat 6 wire is likely to

Signal strength: coming in loud and clear

supplant it. In general, the higher cable numbers

Although solid connections are as important

to multimedia as they are to all electrical systems,
signal strength-not voltage-Is the objective when
connecting data, sound, video, and phone components.
In fact, most multimedia Input Is not Impelled by AC,
as is house wiring. Rather, video and phone signals
are generated by cable or phone companies. Computers
and routers amplify data signals, and stereo amplifiers
boost sound signals; but although those devices run
on house current, the signals themselves are not
AC. Thus the cables that carry multimedia signals
are dramatically different from, say, Romex cables,
and require different connecting devices and a few
specialized tools.

denote faster data-transmission capabilities.

Data cable contains four pairs of wires, thus
RJ-45 data jacks contain eight pins.

Telephone cable

is usually Cat

3 cable.

which is not twisted; its solid wire is considerably thinner than Cat Se cable. RJ -ll phone jacks
contain six pins. Although data cable can carry
phone or data signals, Cat 3 phone cable is not
rated for high-speed data transmissio n.

Audio (speaker) cable

is usually IS-gauge

to 12-gauge finely stranded wire. Speaker wire

terminations vary from bare wires compressed
between stacked washers to screw-on or
crimped jacks that plug into speaker ports.
Plug-in jacks are co lor striped to match speaker
polarity: red-striped jacks for positive terminals
and black-striped jacks for negative terminals.

w:,,~

, II 1:

TRADE SECRET

Pros use watertight connectors on all coaxial cable connections, even those installed indoors. Watertight connectors such
as the RG6s shown in the photo above don't cost much more and
they always provide a solid connection.

122 1 MULTIMEDIA CABLE

& CONNECTORS

~5

STRIPPING CABLE

lectricia ns generally favor one type of

stripper and use it to strip everything, thus

reduc ing the number of tools in their belts.

Splicing scissors can trim tiny wires, but they
can also score sheathing: Hold the cable in one
hand. and, with the other, hold a scissors blade
perpendicular to the cable and rotate it around
the cable

O. It's not necessary to cut through

the sheathing . Once scored, the sheathing

will strip off when you pull on the scored

sections O .ln fact. merely scoring the

sheathing is Jess likely to damage individual
wire insulation.
The cable scorer shown in photo G is faster
than using splicing scissors, but its razor blade
is so sharp that it can easi ly nick wire insula-

Multimedia Installation tools. from left: low-voltage cut-In ring template. splicing scissors, wire strippers. and punch-down tool.

tion if you're not careful. Wire strippers are the

most reliable way to strip insulation off indi vidual wires because you can choose a stripper
setting that matches the wire gauge

a.Finally,

whether stripping wire, drilling holes, or doing

any other wiring task, wear eye protection and
sturdy gloves.

TWISTED WIRES ------,

Remove the sheathing from Cat Se or
Cat 6 cable, and you'll discover twisted
wires within. Twisting wires reduces the
occurrence of cross-talk, in which electromagnetic signals jump from wire to wire.
Although it is necessary to straighten
some data cable wires to attach them to
some jacks, the twisting must be maintained to with in 1/4 in. of the termination
on the jack.

Cat Se and 6 cables are examples of

UTP cable. which is twisted to prevent
signals from jumping between wires.

STRIPPING CABLE 1 123

INC PliO

r.

EXTENDING A PHONE LINE

hanks to cell phones and remotes, we're no longer tied

to the room where the phone line ends. But for clear,

reliable service you can't beat a hard-wired phone plugged

into a nearby jack. Happily, almost anyone can run an extension from an existing jack. thereby saving a hefty installation
fee from the phone company.
The only tricky part of the job is running the cable to the
new jack. You can tuck it under carpets, tack it atop baseboards or run it around door jambs, but it won't look great.
For the cleanest job, route that extension line into the attic

or basement or-as shown here - drill through the wall and

run it outside.
Before you start, find the shortest route between the
existing jack and the new one. Measure that route carefully
and add enough extra cable for drip loops and at least 1 ft.
extra on each end for the thickness of walls and for stripping and connecting to the jacks. Buy Cat 3 or 5e cable,
which contains four pairs of solid-core, 24 -gauge wire.
Because phone lines are low voltage, they're safe to handle.
You can do the job with common toots .

Connecting to an existing jack

Start by unscrewing the cover on the jack and the mounting
screws that hold the jack to the wall. Gentfy pull the jack
out from the wall, being carefully not to pull loose the wires
attached to the jack terminals

O.

If the jack is surface mounted, drill a hole for the exten sion cable that will be covered by the jack. If the jack is
flush mounted, drill anywhere inside the ring, because the
hole will be covered by the jack cover. Drill at a downward
angle

so that exterior water wi ll tend to run out of the

for both data and phone

lines to allow future
expansion or modification. That is, Cat 3 is
fine for phone service
but inadequate for
data, whereas Cat Se
can carry both signals.

124 1 EXTENDING A PHONE LINE

DOING P

r. .

hole. Look into the outlet opening before drilling to avoid

electrical cables in the wall. Use a V4-in. extension bit in a

cordless drill for the job.

After drilling through the wal l, use duct tape to attach a
piece of string to the bit and pull the bit back through the
wail. Then tie the new Cat 3 or 5e phone cable to the string

and pull it into the hole behind the jack. Once you've pulled
the new cable to the existing jack, strip about 2 in . of the
cable sheathing and separate the cable wires into pairs O.
Using splicing scissors or a wire stripper, strip about
112 in. of inSUlation from a wire pair (for example, a blue and

a blue-white wire), loop the bare wire ends clockwise, and

attach one wire to each of the two jack terminals that
are presently wired

O. Typically, terminals have stacked

washers that hold several wires.

Wiring techniques
When connecting to
an existing phone fine,
avoid bending existing
wires repeatedly because
they can become weak
and break off. Screw
terminais come with
multipie washers and are
intended to have one wire
under each washer. It is
not recommended to twist
wires together and install
them under one washer.
Finally, always wrap wires
around screw terminals in
a clockwise direction.

Attach the new wires to the existing Jack's terminals.

EXTEND I NG A PHONE LINE

I 125

INC PliO

r.

MOUNTING A NEW JACK

efore pushing the cables into the wall

and remounting the existing jack, stap le

the new cable so it can't move and stress

electrical connections. If the cable runs outside, loop it downward so water will drip off,
and staple it with insulated cable staples

O.

Then fill the hole in the siding with siliconized

latex caulk.
Locate the new jack and drill through the

O. As
described earlier, tape a string to the end
wall to bring cable to the location

of the drill bit before withdrawing it. then

tie the new cable to the string. Once you 've
pulled the new cable into the room, remove

its sheathing, strip insulation from a pair of

wire ends, feed the cab le through the new
jack, and screw the jack to the wall

O.

Loop the bare wire ends clockwise , insert

them between the stacked washers on the
jack, and screw them tight

O. Finally, tug

gently on the wires to be sure they're we ll

attached, tuck the wires neatly out of the
way, and snap on the jack cover

low-voltage wire or
multimedia cable, staple
it at least every foot to
prevent sagging, strains
on connections, and an
unsightly appearance.

0.

Mou~t

3 opening.the new jack in the

Screw the stripped wire ends

to the jack.

TRADE SECRET
If it's necessary to drill
through an exterior wall
to bring lo-vo wiring or
media cables into a room,
drill downward to keep
water from running into
the walls. Alter inserting
the wire or cable, fill the
hole with siliconized latex
caulk which, unlike pure
silicon, is paintable.

5
126 1 MOUNTING A NEW JACK

Snap on the Jack cover and double-check to make sure It works.

OSlO

MOUNTING A MEDIA DISTRIBUTION PANEL

Ideally, place the distribution panel on an

distribution panel is the heart of a home

and running cable to the outlets. Wear

multimedia network because it receives

safety glasses at all times and work gloves

interior wall to minimize temperature fluctua-

to protect your hands. Panel edges can

tions-never locate it in an attic or unheated

companies and distributes them through-

slice your hands in a flash; metal shards

garage. You'll bu ild in future flexibility if you

out a house. Panels can also distribute the

dislodged by hammers or drills are also

run Cat 5e or Cat 6 cable for al( data and

signals from a stereo or sound system to

dangerous. Finally, sturdy gloves enable

telephone lines.

speakers in many rooms. Many panel makers

you to grip and pull cables more eas ily.

incoming signals from phone. cable, and data

Install the rough-in box for the multimedia

distribution center by screwing it to adjacent

offer solutions with prewired modules, so

O. If you've already pulled most of

a homeowner can configure a multimedia

Mounting the panel

studs

network today that can be easily changed

Locate the distribution panel centrally so

cables to feed the panel. as shown here. tack

them to one side so they'll be out of the way.

tomorrow. To successfully install your system,

you'll have shorter cable runs: None should

closely follow the instructions provided,

be longer than 300 ft. from the panel to an

Slide the panel in or out so its edges will

using the recommended tools.

outlet. To minimize electrical interference,

be flush with the drywall

As with other electrical installations, connect the power last, after wiring the panel

O.

locate the mu ltimedia panel away from

the service entrance panel or a subpanel.

TRADE
SECRET
When mounting panels, install

screws at the top

loosely to hold the
panel in place_

Set and secure

the bottom, then
reset the top screws
as needed_

MOUNTING A MEDIA DISTRIBUTION PANEL

I 127

 ST, IT

PElS

MOUNTING A MEDIA DISTRIBUTION PANEL (CONTINUED)

Remove the knockout(s) for the
power supply

O. If your panel will

house only telephone and cable TV,

you may not need a power supply,
but routers require line vo ltage, so
installing a power supply module
will provide future flexibility. Drop
the power-supply unit into the
opening, run Romex cable to it,
and screw the module to the panel
housing O .
Install the final locknut on the
utility conduit

O. The conduit may

run outside to the ut ility pole or to

an underground pull box . Depending on your utility's main point of
entry (MPOE) or demarcation, you
may need an exterior box to which

the utility will run the service. Or

the utility may install the MPOE
inside, in the distribution panel.

WARNING
Plan your interior
layout before removing

panel knockouts. That

way you know where and
how you want your cables
to come in and you
don't have to go back to
reroute cables and seal
unused knockouts.

128 1 MOUNTING A MEDIA DISTRIBUTION PANEL

OS IRUT

A TYPICAL MULTIMEDIA PANEL

From this one multimedia panel (Its outgoing low-voltage wiring has
been completed), cables distribute video, sound, telephone, and data
signals throughout the house. In this panel, the incoming utility and

cable services are not yet installed-they will be pulled in through

the conduit at the lower left.

Route.
Potch - --

cables
ffi--II~ Telephone

lines

Multimedia
distribution block

.--'-0-'<,----, ~I-. . Doto

lines
"~-~-~~+-"' S

....ke.

coble.

CooxlOI

P f

Panel basics A router

distributes digital subscriber
line (DSL) or broadband
signals from a modem
(not shown) throughout
the house so you can have
several people accessing
the Internet at one time.
Patch cords make connections from the router to
jacks on the data/phone
distribution block. The
multimedia distribution
block Is a prebuilt unit:
One side has banks of jacks
and punch-down blocks
that distribute data signals
to outlets; Its other side
distributes telephone lines.
A passive splitter distributes
video signals from a cable
company throughout the
house; an amplified splitter boosts the video signal
before distributing It
A bridging module distributes sound signals to
speakers around the house.
The power supply module
is fed with 120v house
current; it has receptacles
that router or amplified
splitter cords (not shown)
can plug into.

- --..,,-'+f'-'

Clble
(video'

Conduit

IV_""
Itrl...,.,

.. 0 pull

-- MOUNTING A MEDIA DISTRIBUTION PANEL

I 129

 ST, IT

PElS

RUNNING CABLES TO A MEDIA DISTRIBUTION PANEL

here's no one right way to run multimedia cable to a mu ltimedia distribu-

tion panel. In new construction, electricians

typically start from the distribution panel
and pull cable outward. But remodel wiring
is rarely predictable because you can't see
obstructions hidden in walls and floors.
Before pulling cable into the panel, snap
plastic bushings into the panel knockouts so
sharp edges won't chafe the cable sheathing O. As you pull cab le into the panel.
loop it gently so that you don't crimp it O.
If you have a lot of cables entering a panel,
roughly divide them between two or more
knockouts so the box will look neater.
Install prewired data and phone distribution boards and other modules. In photo 0
the two columns on the left are jacks with

110-type punch downs to which you'll attach

data cables. Incoming phone tines terminate
in the center of the module, which are
then distributed to phone jacks throughout
the house, permitting multiple lines at
different locations.
As you route cable through the panel,
tie-wrap cable bundles to free up workspace
and enable you to see connections eas ily

O.

Labeling both ends of every cable is also

essential. so you'll know which cab le is
which, should you need to repair or modify
the multimedia wiring

O. Finally, create

a numbered house map to show the

cable locations.

130

I RUNNING CABLES TO A MEDIA DISTRIBUTION PANEL

OSlO

CONNECTING CABLES AT THE PANEL

ecause different types of cables converge

at the distribution pane l, there are,

naturally, different connectors used to attach

each one.
Speaker wires are typically stranded.
Strip the ends as indicated by the panel maker-

1/4 in. is typical-insert them into the connectors' screw-down terminals and tighten them
securely

O. Some panels wil t terminate speak-

er wires in a banana jack, as shown in the photo

on p. 122, here, a plastic jack snaps to a bridging module

O.

Using a combination stripping and crimping

tool, strip the coaxial cable that carries data or
phone signals and crimp an F-connector into
the cable

O. Plug coaxial cables into the pasO. (Note:

sive splitter and tighten them snug

The capped blue terminal is for input from the

,'

cab le company.)
Strip approximately 3 in. of sheathing
from the ends of Cat 5e and Cat 6 cable (data
and phone); separate the stranded wire pairs;
and, using a punch down tool, press the individual wires onto the insulation displacement
connector (IDC) prongs on the data and phone
board

O. The punchdown tool also removes

excess wire . The blue cables in the foreground

are data cables; the beige cables are phone
lines O. Finally, plug in patch cords that connect router input to jacks on the data and
phone board

O.

CONNECTING CABLES AT THE PANEL 1 131

LOCATING THE MULTIMEDIA OUTLET

,,

Align the new outlet with a nearby

1 receptacle.

Cut on the waste sIde of the line.

Hook the kellum to the bit and pull

the cable to the outlet.

n general, electricians run one data, one

on p. 123 is another optio n.) Don't try to

someone tape the cable s together, slide a

phone, and one video cable to each outlet.

eyeball level: If you're even slig htly off, the

swivel kellum ove r the taped wires , and hook

In the example here, howeve r, specs dictated

outlet wi ll look cockeyed O.

Use a drywall saw (also cal led a jab saw)

two data lines (g reen and blue cab les) and a

coaxial cable for video.
When locating the cut- in ring for a new

to cut out the opening. To start the cut accu'

rately, strike the heel of your hand against

outlet set alongside an existing receptacle,

the saw handle. To avoid cutting too la rge a

always measure from the cente r of the exist-

hole, cut on the waste side of the outline

ing box, so the cente r sc r ews on the cover

plates will line up O. The two types of cover

To bring cables from the distribution panel. drill ho les into the wall plate using a flexi-

plates may be different sizes, so lining up

their tops or bottoms won't look good. Level

bit O. Wear gloves or use a drilling guide

to protect your hands while guiding the bit.

the cut-in r ing and t race its outl ine on the

Flexibits have a hole in the point. After the

wall. (Th e te mp late shown in the top photo

bit emerg es through the wall plate, have

132 1 LOCATING THE MULTIMEDIA OUTLET

the kellum to the bit O. The kellum swivets,

so t he wires won't twist up as you re ve rse
the drill and pull them back up through
the hole. Install the cut-in ring to provide a
mounting surface for the outlet plate O.

O.
~ For more on runnln9 wires. see
pp. 188-197.

IN4;T

II liME

011 l

INSTALLING CABLE CONNECTORS

n the next few pages, we'll discuss the installation

of several different types of cable connectors :

F-connectors used on coaxial cable (video), as well as

two popular systems (from Leviton and Panduit)
that connect to Cat 3 cable (phone), Cat 5e and
Cat 6 cables (telephone or data). Each connector maker
specifies tools and methods of assembly, so follow its
installation instructions closely.

Use a combination stripper-crimper to strip insulation

off the end of the coaxial cable. Stick the cable in the end

of the tool. spin it, and pee l off both types of insulation
from the outer sheathing

O. The tool leaves about

liz in. of bare (opper and '/4 in. of white insu lation with
the shielding on it. Slide an F-connector over the stripped
end of the coaxial

O. Place an F-connector in the crimp-

ing bay, insert the stripped cable, and squeeze the tool
to crimp the connector tight to the cable

O. (Note: The

F-connector shown here is a watertight variety.)

w:.~

, II 1

TRADE SECRET

It's not necessary to house multimedia

connections in covered junction boxes
(required for high-voltage splices). Install
flush-mounted cut-in rings to provide a
secure device to which you can attach outlet
plates and insert jacks. Whether you're
mounting doorbell chimes or a multimedia
wall outlet, take the time to level and plumb
the device and, if there's another outlet
nearby, to align the height of the new outlet.

INSTALLING CABLE CONNECTORS 1 133

CONNECTING PANDUIT JACKS

2 Cut the wire ends diagonally.

Separate and stralQhten the wire pairs.

Trim the wire ends square.

Pair a Panduit jack housing with a wired cap.

onnect ing phone or data cable jacks

to a multimedia outlet requires a few

134 1 CONNECTING PANDUIT JACKS

Use stripping scissors to unwind the

individua l cab le wires before attaching

steps. Start by reviewing cab le stripping

them to a Pan jack O. Using light pressure,

(see p. 123). Cat 5e and Cat 6 cable are

pull the wires across a scissor blade to

UTP cable, so after stripping about 3 in. of

straighten them. Next, slide the wires into a

sheathing, separate the wire pairs before

plastic cap, which is color coded to indicate

attaching them to a jack. If you use Panduit

where the wires go. Flatten the wires and

jacks (often referred to as Pan jacks), you'll

cut their ends diagonally so they'll slide

O. Push the wires all

also need to un wind (untwist) the wires. (Cat

easily into the cap

3 phone wires are straight and so do not

the way into the cap

need untwisting.)

wire ends straight across

0 , then trim the

O.

IN4;T

II liME

011 l

INSTALLING
LEVITON ~ACKS

he Leviton jack system uses the 110 punchdown tool

required to punch down wires in the distribution

panel (see photo 5 on p. 131). But the system takes practice to avoid loose wires, so amateur electricians might
get more predictable results using Panduit jacks.

In the Leviton system, there's no need to untwist

wires. Separate the wire pairs and punch them directly
into the IDC prongs built into the jack. Use the plastic
disc provided to back the jack as you punch down O.
The punchdown tool comes with 110 and 66 blade sizes;
each blade has a side that punches the wire down and
a side that cuts off excess wire. For best results, work

Push the wIres In all the way.

from back to front to avoid disturbing wires that are

already down. Once you've connected the wires, snap
on the jack's trim cap, which keeps wires in place and
relieves strain on the connection

O.

Snap the housinq and cap together.

The wired cap snaps into a jack housing,

forcing the wires into V-shaped !DC prongs

that slice the wire insulation to make the

electrical contact

O. Place the wired cap

onto the jack housing and use the small

plastic lever provided to snap the assembly together

O.

Panduit jacks are reliable

because they make secure connections .

I NSTALLING LEVITON JACKS

I 135

ATTACHING JACKS TO AN OUTLET PLATE

2 Screw an F-connector to the snap-in terminal.

Snap on the screw-in couplinQ for coaxial cable.

n the project shown here, we're installing both Leviton

and the Panduit jacks to show that despite variations

in jack wiring, both snap into the most common type of

face plate, the keystone style.
To install coaxial terminals, snap the threaded coupling into the face plate O . The coaxia l cable's F-connectar screws to the coupling, creating a clean termination instead of having cable hanging out of the wall

O. Snap a RJ-45 (eight-pin) Leviton jack into the face

plate

O. Note the color coding on the side of the jack to

indicate the order of wires you punched down earlier.

Fina lly, snap a RJ-45 Panduit jack into the remaining
port in the keystone plate O .
Carefully feed the cable into the wall, hold the face
plate flush to the wall, and screw it to the cut-in ring

O.

The outlet shown uses phone and data jacks that are
different colors so that users can quickly differentiate
which jack is which . This differentiation is not an issue in
residences, but it's imperative in business installations.

136 1 ATTACHING JACKS TO AN OUTLET PLATE

Faceplate options
There are many types of faceplates
on the market for mounting telephone, data, coaxial, and specialty
jacks. They come designed to match
the adjacent electrical outlet (for
example, duplex or Decora style)
and In various colors. Although It Is
beyond the scope of this book, there
are also faceplates and adapters for
an array of applications such as video
(HDMI, S-video, component video,
VGA), sound (binding posts, banana),
and flberoptics.

IN4;T

Snap in the Leviton data jack.

II liME

011 l

Snap in the Panduit jack.

ATTACHING JACKS TO AN OUTlET PLATE

I 137

ESIDENTIAL FANS CAN BE dIvIded

Into two CJroups. The first CJroup
mlCJht be better cilled exhlust or
vent fins, becluse theIr prlmlry functIon
Is to remove moIst or odor-Ilden Ilr from
IIvlnCJ spices, route It throuCJh ducts, Ind
expel It outsIde. Commonly Instilled blth
fins Ind rlnCJe hoods both fill Into thIs
clteCJory. By removlnCJ excessIve InterIor
moIsture, these fins help forestlll mold Ind
other unhellthy condItIons.

138

The second CJroup, prlmlrlly celllnCJ fin s,

clrcullte stili, summer Ilr Ind thus Increase
comfort by eVlporltlnCJ moIsture on your
skIn. In cold ell mites, these fins push wlrm
Ilr down from the celllnCJ where It collects,
so It cln once ICJlln wlrm the bodIes below.
Whole- house fins, Instilled In Ittlcs In
wlrm reCJlons, II so clrcullte hot Ilr, but
becluse they typlcilly push It out roof or
CJlble-end vents, whole-house fins Ire more
like exhlust fins wIthout ducts.

BEFORE YOU BEGIN

here are two important tips to note

before wir ing any type of fan. First,

check out the wiring schematic that comes

with the unit

O. In most cases, the schematic

is affixed either to the fan housing or to the

backside of a (over. Or it may be included in
the installation instructions. You'll also find
essential information such as the fan's rating,
expressed in amperes .

WARNING
When installing or replacing

a fan of any type, always

turn off the electrical power

to that location. Then test with

a voltage tester to be sure the
power is off.

Second, most units have an integral

junction box, like the one seen in photo O.
The junction box contains wire leads that
you 'll splice to the incoming house wiring.
All metal boxes-including fan housingsmust be grounded, so if the fan maker
doesn't include a grounding pigtail to the
housing, add one.

the contents before you start by

comparing the parts in the box to
the inventory list included in the
owner's manual. Smaller parts,
such as screws, are typically pack
aged in clear plastiC so you can

count them without having to open

the packet-a good idea because
they're easy to lose.

140

I BEfORE YOU

BEGIN

CHOOSING A BATHROOM FAN

athroom fans are increasingly power-

FAN COVERS

ful, quiet. and available with numerous

bells and whistles. When considering all the

extra features, however, remember that the

Most exhaust fans come with plastic covers , but they can be replaced with
metal plates. Here, an antique wall register was plated to match the other
fixtures in the room.

primary function of a bathroom fan is to

remove moisture.
There are complex formulas for sizing
bath fans, but a good rule of thumb is 1 cfm

(cubic foot per minute) per square foot for

bathrooms 100 sq. ft. or smaller. For bath-

rooms larger than 100 sq. ft., allot 50 cfm

for each fixture (toilet. lavatory, shower) and

100 cfm for hot tubs.

Also, get a Quiet fan: a rating of 3 sones
to 4 sones is tolerable, 1 sane is very quiet.
And remote inline fans, typica lly installed
in attics some distance above bathrooms,
are quieter still. Consequently, you can
install a larger fan inline and still have a
quiet bathroom.
Next. consider switches . Fans usually
need to continue venting after you leave the
shower or use the toilet. so get an electronic
switch with an integral t imer so that the fan
continues running after the light is turned
off. If there's no integral timer on the switch,
you can r un the light and the fan on separate switches. You can also connect the fan

REMOTE INLINE FANS

Even a well-made bathroom fan will be relatively noisy if the motor is
2 f1. from your head in the bathroom ceiling. But if you install the fan some
distance from the bathroom, you 'll reduce the noise considerably. That
remote location may mean that you have longer duct and wiring runs, but
routing them is rarely a problem. In fact, with a large-enough fan motor and
a duct V-connector, you can vent two bathrooms with one fan . Because
longer duct runs can mean greater air resistance, consider installing rigidmetal or polyvinyl ch loride (PVC) ducts, whose smooth surfaces offer less
resistance, rather than flexible metal ducts. Alternatively, you could oversize
the fan slightly. Better fan makers, such as Fantech and American Aldes H,\
offer acoustica lly insulated cases to deaden sound further.

to a humidistat, which is a moisture sensor

that turns the fan off once a preset moisture
level is attained.

WARNING
Never install a rheostatcommonly called a dimmer
switch-to control an exhaust
fan. Fan motors are desiqned to
run on a fixed voltaqe, and if you
reduce the voltage by using a
rheostat, you may burn out
the fan motor.

Remote Inline fans require longer ductlng, but they're quieter because they're
located farther away from the bathroom.

CHOOSING A BATHROOM FAN 1 141

LOCATING A BATHROOM FAN

here are three primary considerations

expelled by them could be drawn up into the

on the other hand, may consist of a single

when locating a bath fan. First. place the

attic by soffit vents in roof overhangs.

broad piece of metal or elastomeric material

fan where it can expel moisture effectivelyideally, near the shower, where most of the
moisture is generated.

Second, locate the fan so that its duct run

is as short as possible and minimizes cut-

Third, locate roof vents away from prob-

folded up the middle. But because this flash-

lem areas such as skylight and va ll ey flash-

ing is located where roof planes converge,

ing. Water usually dams up on the uphill side

it channels an enormous amount of water

of a skylight, creating a leak-prone area that

during rainy seasons. So keep things simple:

must be carefully flashed. Typically, skylight

Locate roof vents away from obstructions

outs in the blocking or framing members-

flashing consists of two pieces: a base flash-

in the roof or concentrations of water.

especially rafters. Vent the ductwork from

ing and a counterflashing that goes over it.

Don't put a roof vent near an operable

the fan out the roof or through a gable-end

Locate a roof vent near skylight flashing

window, either.

wall. Avoid sidewall vents because moist air

and you're inviting trouble. Valley flashing,

A BATHROOM FAN
To keep moisture from leaking into the attic, apply silicon caulk between the fan
box flanges and the ceiling drywall. Use metal foil tape to ensure airtight joints
where ducting attaches to fan and vent takeoffs.

Roof
vent --~:"

Flexible
metal duct

Metal fall tape

Fan box (housing)

Silicone caulk between

flange and drywall

142 1 LOCATING A BATHROOM FAN

Ceiling drywall

in the ceiling, be sure

there are no obstructions
along the way. Tentatively
locate the fan and use a
'/4 in. extension bit to drill
along the proposed duct
path. You'll also want to
drill an exploratory hole up
through the roofing.

INSTALLING THE ROOF VENT

n the installation shown here, there was enough clearance

sketch that circle onto the roof. If the circle would cut into

around the explo rator y hole and there happened to be a roofer

on site, so the crew decided to instal! the roof vent first. (Roof

the tabs of any shingle-roughly the bottom half of a shingle

strip-u se a shingle ripper or a cat's paw to remove the nails

vents vary; the model shown has a round stack and a weather+

holding those sh ing les in place before cuttlng the vent hole

proof cap.)

Be gentle when removing shingles so you can reuse them

Go onto the roof and find the

1/ 4 -in . explorato r y

hole drilled

while locating the fan. The hole represents the center of the
vent hole you'll need to cut.
Most ducting and roof-vent takeoffs are 4 in. diameter, so

O.
O.

Slide the upper flange of the roof ve nt under the shingle

courses above and use a utility knife to trim its arc onto the
shingles above 0 , then cut out the vent's circle into any
remaining shingles and the roofing paper O. Next. use a

INSTALLING T HE ROOF VENT 1 143

INSTALLING THE ROOF VENT (CONTINUED)

reciprocating saw to cut through the sheathing O.

If the roof pitch is 4:12 or greater, it usually isn't
necessary to caulk the vent edges. Here , a 2:12 pitch
required ca ulking to forestall leaks O. Carefully lift the

shingle course above the vent and nail the two corners
of th e ve nt's upper flange into place

O. Do not nail th e

lower corners of the vent : those nails would be exposed

to weat her and co uld leak. Slide in the surrounding
shingles and renail them.

w.~w

, II '

TRADE SECRET

Keeping fan-expelled moisture out of

attics and wall cavities is crucial, and
the only way to do so is to create airtight
connections: Caulk the fan housing to the
ceiling and seal each duct joint with aluminum
foil tape, not fabric duct tape.

144 1 INSTALLING THE ROOf VENT

MOUNTING THE FAN BOX

O . Regardless of whether th e box

f bathroom framing is exposed, mounting the fan is pretty straig ht-

to the fini shed ceiling

forward. If you remove the fan assembly from the fan box, the

si t s above or below the ceiling drywall, caul k th e flange with

box will be lighter and easie r to hold in place one-handed while you
use your other hand to sc rew the unit to the cei ling joists. Most fans
have ex pandable bracket s which extend between joist s spaced 16 in.

fl ange

pol yurethane sealant to create an ai rtight seal between the two

mate rials. If you removed the fan assembly earlier, reins tall it now.
Keep duct run s as short as possible to reduce air resistance . Slide

on-center (o.c.). But you should always screw at least one side of the

the lower end of the flexible duct to th e fan's ex haust port

fan box to a joist. to ensure that it's anchored secu rely. For ceiling

seal the joint wit h meta l duct tape, th en attach the other end to the

joist (Of rafter) spaci ng greater than 16 in. O.C., it's a good idea to add

roof vent takeoff. Or, if you haven't yet cut the hole in the roof. hold

blocking O.
If the fan box fl ange mounts flush to the underside of the ceiling,

the free end of the duc t to the underside of the roof sheathing and

and

tr ace its outline onto the sur face.

use a piece of dr ywall sc rap to gauge the depth of the unit relat ive

MOUNTING THE FAN BOX

I 145

RETROFITTING A BATHROOM FAN

f you are remodeling or installing a

bath fan and the finished ceiling is

already in place, begin by creat ing a cardboard template of the fan housing. Mark the
approximate position of the fan by driving a
screw or nai l through the ceiling and then go
up into the space above the bathroom and
find the marker. If there is an insulated attic
above, take along a dustpan to shovel loose
insulation out of the way and be sure to wear
a dust mask and gloves. After you've located
the marker, place the fan template next to
the nearest joist and trace around it. Most
fan boxes mount to ceiling joists. If the fan
box has an adjustable mounting bar, you have
more latitude in placing the fan. Use a jigsaw
or reciprocating saw to cut out the opening.
To keep the drywall cutout from falling to
the floor below, take a piece of scrap wood
slightly longer than the cutout and screw it
to the drywall.
Before placing the fan box on top of the
ceiling drywall, caulk around the perimeter
of the opening to create an airtight bond to
the box flange

O. Once the box is wired and

the ceiling has been painted, install the trim

piece to cover any gaps around the
fan opening

W!~

, II "

O.

TRADE SECRET

If there's an existing ceiling

light in the bathroom, a fanand-light combination unit may
simplify your remodel. If you want
the fan and light to operate at
the same time, you can reuse the
two-wire cable that's presently
controlling the light switch. But if
you want to operate the fan and
light separately-so that the fan
continues running after the light
is switched off-you'll have to install
a length of 14/3 or 12/3 cable,
as shown on p. 155.

146 1 RETROFITTING A BATHROOM FAN

WIRING A BATHROOM FAN

----v
I

efore making any connections in the

fan box O. lnsert a cable connector into a junction

fan's junction box, make sure the power

box knockout, feed the cable through it. and strip

is off. Follow the wiring diagrams provided by

the fan manufacturer. In general, it's easier

jf

the cable sheathing

the

incoming power runs through a switch box first;

O.

Using wire connectors, first splice the incoming

ground wire to the fixture ground

O. (If the fix'

then you don't have to try to splice the switch

ture lead wires are stranded, extend them slightly

legs in the fan junction box-junction boxes inside

beyond the solid wire so that the wire connector

fan housings tend to be cramped . Bathroom fans

will engage them first.) Splice the neutral wires and

should also have ground-fault circuit interrupter

then the hot wires. If the light and fan are wired

(GFCI) protection if insta lled in a shower whose

separately, there will be two sets of hot wires.

ceilings are 8 ft. above the finish floor or lower.

If the duct space is tight, it's usually best to

TRADE
SECRET
In tight spaces
like a junction
box, almost all
the pros use a
utility knife to
remove sheathing
from the wires.

Tug each wire group gently to be sure the splices

are secure. When all groups are spliced, carefully

wire the fan box before installing the duct. When

fold the wires into the fan junction box and cover

running cable to the fan box, allow a generous

the box

O.

loop of cable, just in case. As with light fixtures

and receptacles, staple the cable within 1 ft. of the

WIRING A BATHROOM FAN 1 147

III

..-C

a.

o
c

--'"cu
"
I II

Choosing a
Range Hood
AII ...IIt_ e.d _

boultl .......t ... by e

ranQe hood. In addition to sucking up the smoke of

a charred sleak, ranQe hoods exhaust airborne qrease

that might otherwise migrate to a cool corner and

feed mold or adhere to woodwork and discolor Its
finish. Range hoods come In many configurations but
basically there's a hood to collect smells and smoke.
e 'an to expel them. ducts to carry exhausts out. and
shrouds and other trim pieces plus. of COUfse, wires.
switches. lights. and whatnot. Range hoods vary Irom
low' powered and Inexpensive (less than $50) to cus'
tom-deslQned units (which cost thousands).
Ranqe hoods are most often wall-mounted directly
over a ranqe. AII.rnlllvely. there afe downdraft and
Side-draft vents that pop up from a counter area to

suck away fumes. Over Island and peninsula ranges.

you can Install chimney-type vents. In general. Install
the type of vent that will carry exhaust gases outdoors
with the shortest and straightest duct run possible.
Because heated air rises. wall-mounted and chimney
types are Inherently efllclent. whereas downdraft and
slde'draft vents pull heated gases In directions they
wouldn't go naturally and can even pull burner
flames sideways.
Ideally. a range hood should be slightly wider than
the range, say, 3 In. wider on each end, and mounted
30 In. above the range. but lollow the hood maker's
suggested mounting height. More powerful hoods can
be Installed higher. Finally. buy a unit with a good'
quality filter that can withstand regular washing
with soap and water. Most f ilters are aluminum meSh,
better ones are stainless steel: many can be popped
Into the dishwasher, which spares homeowners a very
greasy and unplea.ant task. In general. be skeptical
of range hoods that recirculate air throuQh a series
of filters rather than ventlnQ It outside.

148

DESIGN OPTIONS

--.

A loo-ctm wall' mounted hood sbould be adequet.

to vent the av.ratI. four-bur..r. 3O1..-wld.
range. But II that ..... ranq. I. located on
kltch.n 1.I.nd. H. rangnt .hould draw 125 cfm
to 150 elm. Mora I. not batt.r wh.n .Izlnq ranq.
hood For _ thlnq. I.",.r hoodra nol.ler.
Mld.lz. r.ng. hood.....r"'l. 3 10... to 3.5 IOn"
(a mHsura 01 nols.). which I. too noI.y to have
conv.rsatlon ...rby; monst.r hood. can roach
8 10.... (In comperison. ralrlqlrltors raql.ter I
.on ) Overslz. hoods can .Iso .xpel so much .Ir
that they cra.te Ioeclt-dr.ftlllf.ln which n"'l.tlv.
In'bouM .Ir praura draws lur""ca or "rapl...
xh.ust q.s.s beck down the chimney.

MOUNTING & DUCTING A RANGE HOOD

A well-sized hood
should extend about
3 in. beyond the

range on both ends.

insert a thimble-a specialized fitting that

one side of the hood to a stud

directly to a wall. A hood should be mounted

creates an opening through a wall or ceiling

secure the other side of the hood with a

about 30 in . above the range, and the dueting

into which the duct fits . If there already is

a thimble in place, insert the duct from the

ange hoods are typically screwed to

the underside of a cabinet or mounted

that vents it should exit the house as directly

Cut a hole in the wall or ceiling and

as possible. As you plan your duct route, use

range hood up into the thimble 3 in. to 4 in.

a stud finder to locate studs in the wall behind

above its final position

the stove or through ceiling joists above. The

duct run should exit through the siding or the

hold the duct in place.

Level the hood, center it over the range,

roofing. To locate the hole for the duct work,

level the hood and center it over the range.

and bolt it to the wall O. Mount the hood in

at least two points: If the studs behind the

O. Friction shou ld

hood are 16 in. D.C., you may have to bolt

and

toggle bolt. After the hood is mounted,

slide the duct down over the takeoff atop
the hood O. Tape all of the joints with selfadhering metal tape.

MOUNTING & DUeTiNG A RANGE HOOD 1 149

WIRING THE RANGE HOOD

any range hoods have discrete electrical junction boxes with knockouts, into which
you insert cable clamps and cables. In the example shown here, the shroud that encloses

the duct doubles as a junction box. The lead wires from the fan and li ght emerge through
a bushing on the top of the hood and attach to wires in a Romex supply cable, which emerges
from the wall cavity.

Strip and splice like wire pairs using wire connectors. Splice the ground wires first- be sure
there's a grounding pigtail to the hood itself-then neutral wires, and then hot wires

O.

To minimize weight and avoid marring shiny trim pieces, many pros install the fan

blades, filters, trim, and other trappings after the hood shell is mounted . Most of the parts
simply snap into place-just fot!ow the instructions provided

O. Then, if your hood has a

bottom casing, screw it into place O. Finat!y, fit the shroud over the ducting and the wire
connection- they're usua Jty held in place with one pair of screws at the top and another pair
at the bottom

O.

3 Attach the bottom casing onto the hood.

ISO

I WIRING THE RANGE HOOD

WARNING
\:.... .'J Most hoods aren't
heavy but they're
unwieldy, so get help
installing one.

UI

.-..oa.
C

Choosing a
Ceiling Fan

o
c

.-

1:1'

TIle.. ....,.. you ... lind t.n Ity'" tut _toh .I.....t
any architectural style; the Internet Is a QOod place to start
looklnq. As you mlqht expect, quality correlates closely to
cost. Good'quallty lans will be balanced, so they don't
wobble, and will run quieter, thanks to leatures like

UI

CU

"

sealed steel bearlnos.

Most fan companies offer three mountlnq profiles:
standard (which employs extension down rods to situate
Ian blades at an optimal helqhtl, flush (lor low celllnqs),
and anq'ed (lor sloplnq celllnqs). To operate salely, Ian
blades must be located at least 7 ft. above the floor; optl'
mally, Ian blades should be 8 ft. to 10 ft. above the floor.
To attain that helqht Irom celllnqs hlqher than 9ft., lan
makers offer extension down rods of varylnq length.
Most downrods are Y2 In. In diameter: better quality units
use rods that are 3/4 In. I" diameter. For safety reasons,
fan blades must be at least 18 In. away from the nearest
wall or sloplnq cellinq.
When splnnlnQ. celllnq fan blade spans range from
32 In. to 60 In. There are, of course, complicated formulas

for determlnlnq fan size. and Ideally you should center

any Ian over the area In which people are most likely to
conqreqate In a room. The chart on p. ISS will help you
determine the rlqht size.
In oeneral. more fan blades won't move more air. More
Important Is the blade anqle. The steeper the pitch 01 the
blade, the more air It will move. Less expensive Ian blades
will have a 10'deqree pitch and spin laster; better'quallty
lans will have al2'deqree to 14'deqree pitch.
Another Important consideration Is the switch that
controls the fan. Most fans have a multiple-speed pull-chain
switch built Into the bottom 01 the houslnq. If the Ian Is too
hlqh lor you to reach the chain comlortably or you Just
don't like the look 01 a pull chaln,lnstall a wall switch to
control the fan. Amonq the more popular fan controls are
three-speed wall switches and remote wireless controls.
Avoid uslnq dimmer switches (rheostats) to control the fan.

Mlny home. ere desl9ned with I sln91e 119ht

outllt In the centar of Nch room, It homeowners Wlnt both I tin Ind I celllnq 119ht In
91Y1n room. Inltllllnq I cellln9 fin I"ht I. I
Itral9htforwlrd Ind colt-effective solution,
Thus mlny tin make.. ott.r 119ht kits. or tins
with IntacJrll1l9hts. Until ....ntly. this Ill-Inone solution resembled a min wearlnq two hats
beelU.. the 119ht _eel 91ued onto the tan.
Fortunately, SOIM fan makers are now desIQnIn9 combo units that look mora IntltJrateelselrch tor them, they're out t ....... It you stili
don't nnd a combo tin and 119ht thlt Ifts your
tllte. eeld I separate 119htln9 outlat.

however. as rheostats frequently cause fan motors to hum

or, in some cases, burn out. Follow manufacturer's
recommendations for appropriate switches.

DESIGN OPTIONS

151

INSTALLING THE CEILING FAN BOX

CEILING FAN ELEMENTS
Mounting details and fan assemblies vary:
Follow the installation instructions that come
with your unit . Add down-rod extensions as

needed to locate the fan blades 8 ft . to 10 ft.

above th e floor.

Ceiling wires

Wire leads from fan - ---\ ....._,;;;;

(or rafters), then mount a 2-in.-deep octagonal metal box to the

WARNING

blocking. Mark the location of the blocking so the box will be flush

Although there are plastic ceiling boxes rated

for fans, many installers won't touch them.
Spooked by the possibility of stripped screw holes
and crashing fans, they insist on using a metal

to the finished ceiling surface. Then drive three 3-in. toenailed wood

fan box.

deep metal pancake box directly to the joist. Before doing so, how-

screws through each end of the blocking and into the joists, keeping
the blocking on your marks.
If you must hang a fan from a ceiling joist's edge, screw a 'Iz-in.ever, be sure there is enough room inside the fan's canopy to hide

II fans must be securely mounted to framing, but this is

electrical connections-because there's no room for them in the pan-

especially true of ceiling fans, which are weighty and subject

cake box! If not. move the fan or modify your plans .

to vibration and wobbling. All fans must be installed in a cei ling box

An alternative is to mount an adjustable hanger to the framing .

rated for fan use-that is, capable of supporting 50 lb. or more.

Bar hangers are strong, easier than nailing up blocking, and easily

Check your fan's installation specs. If your fan is particularly heavy

positioned by sliding the box along its support bar. Some types of

or complex, it may require a box with a higher weight rating or

hangers can also be used as remodel bars.

additional bracing.
If ceiling joists are exposed, you have several options. You
can install a piece of 2x4 or 2x6 blocking to the ceiling joists

Isz l lNSTALLING THE CEILING FAN BOX

~ For more on bar hangers, see p. 29.

If joists are exposed. install the blocking and mount a

fan box.

WARNING
If there's an existing fan box,
turn off the power to it and
test before proceeding. If the box
is plastic, check the screw holes
that the fan mounting bracket
attaches to. If the screw holes are
at all stripped, or the box is cracked
or deformed, or if you have any
doubts that it can support the
new fan, replace the box.

If joists are not exposed, install a remodel bar (AKA

a braced box) if there's a finish ceiling. Locate the fan,
cut a 4-in.-diameter hole in the ceiling, insert the bar
into the hole 0 , and maneuver it until its feet stand on
top of the drywall. Then hand-turn the bar to expand it.
When the bar touches a joist on both ends, turn the ba r
with a wrench to drive the bar points into the joists

O.

Finally, bolt the ceiling box to the remodel bar using the
hardware provided

O.
INSTALLING THE CEILING FAN BOX

I 153

MOUNTING THE CEILING FAN

an asse mb lies differ great ly, so

be sure to follow the inst alla-

tion instruct ions that come with

your fa n. After t est ing to be sure
t he powe r is off. feed th e ceili ng
wi res through th e opening in the
mount ing brac ket and sc rew the
brac ket to th e fan box. Note: For
so me asse mblies, th e m ounting
brac ket is si mp ly a fl at cross bar
th at spans the fan box; for other
t ypes, the fan's weig ht is supported
by a brac ket that is so mewha t like
a slotted dome, int o which a ball
hange r fits.
Pr easse mble th e pa rt s necessary fo r hanging the fan motor
and housi ng. Typica lly, you feed
th e fan's wire lea ds up t hrough a
ca nopy and a ho ll ow dow nrod. Th e
down r od has a ball hea d t hat sli ps
into, and is supp orted by, a sl otted
mount ing brac ket sc rewed to a ceiling outl et box

O.

Ca r efu lly lift th e fan mot or

t oward the mount ing brac ket in the
ceili ng. Bei ng ca refu l not t o pi nch
the wi res from th e ceili ng or those
fro m the fan moto r, inse r t t he ba ll
head of the down r od into th e ope ning of the mount ing bracket

O.

On some models, you may need

to rotat e the fan bo dy until a slot
in the ba ll head alig ns with a pin
in th e br ac ket. If th ere is a loc king
bolt or hanging pin th at sec ures th e
asse mb ly, be sure t o att ac h it o r
t he un it may fall.
Now wi r e th e un it. Beca use all
met al boxes mu st be ground ed,
att ach a groun di ng pigt ail to th e
brac ket. Use wi r e connec t or s t o
joi n li ke wi re pai r s, st art ing with
gro unding wi r es, then the neutral
wi res, and then hot wi r es. If t here's

a f an lig ht. the r e will be t wo hot

Insert the downrod into the bracket.

wire lea ds: Th e black lead t ypically

connec t s to the fan and t he blue or

154 1 MOUNTING THE CEILING FAN

red lead co ntrols the light. Tu ck the

WIRING A FAN-LIGHT COMBINATION

spliced wires behind the ca nopy,

slide the canopy up the down rod
until the canopy is flush to the ceiling, then tighten the setscrew that
holds it in place.
Attach the fan blades last. Typically, four machine sc rews attac h
a blade to each blade holder;
each screw hole is lined with a

The fan types discussed in this section are frequently configured with both fans
and lights. Running a threewire cable (12/3 with ground or 14/3 with ground)
enables you to operate the fan and light separately. When a ceiling fan's junction
box is closer to the power source than to the switch box, as shown in the drawing
below right, the switch is called a " back fed switch." When wiring a backfed
switch leg, tape the white wire black to indicate that it's being used as a hot wire .

rubber grommet t hat cushions

the screw-and -nut assembly and
forestalls vibration. Each blade
holder then bo lts to the underside
of the fan motor O. Because fan
blades are prebalanced at the factory, never use blades from other

BACK-FED SWITCH

INCOMING POWER
THROUGH SWITCH BOX

' - - - --IXA

Hot to

Hot
'l. j' ~- 1to light

Neutral

12/3
or 14/3

fans. Once you've tightened and

checked all bolts and screws, turn
the fan on its slowest speed to

12/3
or 14/3

check for wobbling .

cable

01 wobbling is a blade
holder that's become misaligned. To check lor that,
turn 011 the Ian and use a
yardstick to see il all blade
holders are the same height
Irom the ceiling. Most blade
holders can be removed
and bent slightly back into
alignment; the store that
sold you the Ian may also
have a technician. Fan mak
ers also have websites that
describe how to balance and
troubleshoot their fans.

-=--.0:- _

Light
switch
Hot
wh ite
wire
t aped
black

FAN SIZES

Blade Span
(In.)

32 or 36
42 or 44
48
50 or 5 2
54 to 60

Room Siz. (sq . It.),

max

10 0
144
225
400
>400

Output may also be expressed in clm (cubic l eet per minute).

For example, a goodquality Ian wlth a 36in. span wi!! move
2500 elm to 4 000 el m.

MOUNTING THE CEILING FAN

I 155

I ~--------------~

LANNING
EWWOR
EING DETAIL ORIENTED IS AS
Important to plannlnCJ as It Is to
Installation. When you plan a wlrlnCJ
proJect, be methodical: Assess the exlstlnCJ
system, calculate electrical loads, check
local codes, and draw a wlrlnCJ floor plan.
If you are only replaclnCJ exlstlnCJ
devlces-chanCJlnCJ a IICJht fixture, replaclnCJ
a faulty switch, or uPCJradlnCJ a receptacle,
for example-you seldom need a permit from
the local bulldlnCJ department. However,
If you extend or add any circuit, you must
pull (or flit) a permit.

156

Most local electrical codes are based

on the NEC. When It's necessary to pull
a permit, locel code euthorltles will want
to approve your plens and leter Inspect
the wlrlnCJ to be sure It's correct. Don't
short-circuit this process: Codes and
Inspections protect you and your home.
Whetever the scope of your proJect,
If you work on exlstlnCJ circuits, first turn
off the power end test to be sure It's off,
as shown throuCJhout this book.

'.

I 157

INSPECTING THE FUSE BOX OR BREAKER PANEL

15a l iNSPECTING THE fUSE BOX OR BREAKER PANEL

y looking at the outside of the service panel and

is a Code violation; the NEC requires that panel compo-

wiring that's exposed in the basement and attic, you

nents be listed (UL listed, for example) and come from a

can get a basic overview of the system's condition. If the

single manufacturer. So if you see covers that have been

wiring is in decent shape, you can probably cont inue using

cut to fit a breaker, cover knockouts that are missing,

it and safely add an outlet or two. However, if the system

bus bars that are visible when the panel cover is on, or

seems unsafe or inadequate, hire a licensed electrician

mismatched components, hire a licensed electrician to

to open the panel and do a more thorough examination .

correct those problems. Some older brands of breaker

Here's what to look for.

panels, such as Federal Pacific@ and Zinsco@, have

Start your investigation at the fuse box or breaker

panel. You can learn a lot about the condition of the
system by exam ining the outside of the service box.

spotty reputations and should also be replaced

O.

Missing cable connectors or unfilled knockouts

enable mice and vermin to enter the panel and nest in

Exam ining the inside of a panel or fuse box is best left

it, which can be a fire hazard. Missing connectors also

to a licensed electrician, however.

allow cables to be yanked, stressing electrical connec-

~ For more on Inspectlnq the panel, see p. 14.

Rust and corrosion on the outside of a service box
or on the armored cable or conduit feeding it can indicate corroded connections inside

O. Such connections

tions inside the panel

G. A missing cable clamp may

also allow the sharp edge of the panel to slice through

thermoplast ic cable sheathing, which could energize the
panel and electrocute anyone who touches it 0.
An ungrounded service panel, a major hazard, is

can lead to arcing and house fires, so have a licensed

explained in greater length in Chapter 1. A properly

electrician replace the fuse box or panel. Likewise,

grounded panel will have a large grounding wire running

if you see scorch marks on breakers or a pane l, have

from the panel to a grounding electrode (rod). For the

a pro examine it.

entire electrical system to be grounded, there must be

Melted wire insulation is a sign either of an overheated

circuit-usually caused by too many appliances in use

a continuous ground wire or other effective grounding

path running from each device or fixture to the service

at the same time-or of a poor wire connection in which

panel and, by extension, to the grounding electrode. Cold

arcing has occurred. In the first case, a homeowner

water and gas pipes must also be connected (bonded).

typically installs an oversize fuse or breaker to keep

an overloaded circuit from blowing so often ; but this

~ For more on qroundlnq. see p. 12.

"remedy" exceeds the current carrying capacity of the

wire. The wire overheats and melts its insulation, which
can lead to arcing, house fires, or-if someone touches
that bare copper wire-electrocution.
A fuse box full of oversized fuses may not melt wires
where you can see them, but it may have damaged wire
insulation somewhere you can't. Have an electrician
inspect the electrical system . Installing type-S fuse
socket inserts can preve nt overfusing.
"Pennying" a fuse is another unsafe way to deat with
an overloaded circuit that keeps blowing fuses. In this
case, someone unscrews a fuse, inserts a penny or a
blank meta l slug into the bottom of the socket-a dangerous act in itself-and then reinstalls the fuse. The penny
allows current to bypass the fuse and the protection it
offers. Here, again, have an electrician examine the circuits for damage to the wire insulation.
Panel covers that don't fit, have gaps, or are missing
are unsafe. Likewise, any installation in which panels,
covers, and breakers are from different manufacturers

INSPECTING THE FUSE BOX OR BREAKER PANEL 1 159

ASSESSING WIRING CONDITION

ables may be visible as they near the

ent rates each t ime the circuit is under load.

attics and basemen t s. If there are covered

ove rheating, and house fires.

service panel and as they run through

Th is can lead to loose con nec tions, arcing,

junction boxes, carefully remove the covers

Wire splices must be hou sed within a

and exami ne the wire splices insi de-without

covered junc t ion box, outlet box, or future

touching them. You can also turn off power

box. Wires that are spliced outside a box or

and pull a few receptacles out to better

inside an uncovered box can be a fire hazard

examine the wires.

because of the dangers of arcing (sparks

Deteriorated sheat hing is a potential

shock ha za rd, so note brittle fiber insulation

leaping gaps between wires). Loose connections not contained in a cover box can easily

and bare wi r e, but avoid touching it. Sheath-

ignite combustibles nearby because arcs

ing that's been chewed on by mice, rats, or

ap proach 2,OOooF.

sq uirrels sho uld be replaced.

NM ca ble must be stapled within 12 in.

Knob-and-tube wiring, al th ough outdated, is inherently sa fe unless ind ividual

of boxes and every 4 1J2 ft. Sagging wire is

wi re insulation is deteriorated or spl ices

hazardous because it can get inadvertently

are incorrectly made. Typically, splices that

strained, jeopardizing electrical connec-

were part of the original installatio n will not

t ions. Likewise, all boxes must be secu rely

be in a ju nction box, but must be wrapped

mounted. All NM cable ente r ing meta l boxes

with electrical (fric tion) tape and supported

must be gripped by cable clam ps; whereas

by porcelain knobs on both sides of each

plastic boxes do not require the strain relief

splice. Nonoriginal splices must be housed in

of ca ble clamps.

covered boxes. Have knob-and-tube wiring

Aluminum circui t wiring is a fire hazard

assessed or modified by an electrician famil-

unless it is co rrec tly terminated wit h a

iar with it; it's quirky stuff. Th e NEe does not

COPALUM con ne ctor or CO/ALR-rated out-

allow knob-and-tube wiring to be buried in

lets and switches. If it is inco rrectl y termi-

insulation, though some local inspec t ors are

nat ed in a copper device, the two metals will

okay wi th the practice.

corrode and expand and contract at differ-

Ungrounded outlets
You can continue using
two-slot, ungrounded
receptacles on general-use
circuits as long as the
wires are In good condition
and the connections are
correctly made. Most new
lamp and appliance plugs
are double-Insulated so
there's almost no risk of

getting a shock from the

plug. However, if you want
to use appliances or tools
with three-pronged plugs
or a surge protector at the
location, you must upgrade
to a grounded circuit. Putting a two-pronged adapter
on a three-pronged plug
is unsafe!

Unstapled cable can be inadvertently yanked

and stress electrical connections. If you see
work this sloppy, suspect substandard wiring
throuqhout the house.

A PRO'S TAKE
ON REWIRING
If an older home's wiring is in decent
shape, it's probably okay to continue
using it, even though it may not meet
electrical code for a new insta llation.
If you are plann ing to gut the house
completely, it might make se nse to rip
out all the old wiring and completely
rewire the house. But if you're remodeling only part of the house, leave most
of the old wiring in place and spend
your money rewiri ng the kitchen,
baths, and laundry circuits. That wi ll
give you more bang for your buck.
However, you should replace old
wiring that's unsafe. If you observe any
of these condit ions, the wiring should
be rep laced:
Circuit s that have been exte nded
imp roperly, as evi denced by loose
connections, unprotected splices,
or arcing .
Knob-and-tube wiring whose insulation has been damaged. Also, if
knob-and-t ube wiring in the attic
ha s been covered with loose-fill insulation or insulation batts, th at is
a seriou s Code violation that could
lead to overheating and fire dangerthat wiring shou ld be replaced.
Circuits wired with unsheathed
wires rather than with sheathed cable
or conduit.

160

I ASSESSING WIRING CONDITION

IS THE SYSTEM ADEQUATELY SIZED?

f receptacles in your house

electricians install 150-amp or

teem with multiplugs and

200-amp panels if the home-

extension cords, you may need

owners plan to enlarge the

to add more outlets. But there

house at some point or acquire

are also more subtle clues: If

a lot of heavy energy- using

you blow fuses or trip breakers

appliances such as electric

regularly, or if the lights brow n

ranges and hot tubs.

Three-wire service,
made up of two large,
Insulated 120v wires
and a bare groundl
neutral wire, supplies
enough power for
modern needs.

out when you plug in a toaster

or an electric hair dryer, you've

RULES OF THUMB

got overloaded circuits and may

The only sure way to know if

need to add new circuits to re-

you've got enough capacity to

lieve the load on existing circuits.

add an outlet or a circuit is to

This sectio n will help you figure

ca lculate electrical loads.

out whether your system has the

capacity to add new circuits or

~ For more on calculatlnl) electrical loads, see p. 162.

add outlets to existing circuits.

But for the benefit of those

Electrical service,
revisited

who wis h that an electrician

would just offer an offhand op in -

Let's start with a recap of the

ion of what works most of the

electrical service running from the

time, the "rules of thumb" below

utility pole to you r house. If there

continue on the next page.

are only two large wires running

from the utility pole to the house,

Fuse box service If you've

they deliver only 120v service. A

got a fuse box wi th a 30-amp

house with two-wire service prob-

or 60-amp main fuse, the best

ably has a 30-a mp or 60-amp

advice we can give is: Get rid

main fuse or breaker, which is

of it or upgrade your service.

inadequate for modern usage.

Don't add outlets or ci rcuits

~ For more on how electrical

service works, see p. 10.

until you replace the outside

service box with a breaker panel.
A fused main shou ld be replaced

These days, three-wire service

because it is frequently abused

feeding a 100-amp service panel

by people trying to bypass it s

is considered minimal, and many

protection, and it is hated by

CIRCUIT CAPACITIES

Amperes x Volts

Total Capacity

Safe Capacltyt

(watts)

(watts)

1,800
2,400
3,000
3,600

1,440
1,920
2,400
2,990

15 x 120
20 x 120
25 x 120
30 x 120
Amperes multiplied by volts equals watts.

VOLTS. AMPS.
AND WATTS
At a power plant or a substation, electricity is multi plied (charged) and given pressure (voltage) ; in that
form, electricity is potentia l energy, just like a cha rg ed
battery. When electricity is put to work at an outlet,
electrons flow through the wires , and power is delivered as heat or light. The ampere (amp) is a un it by
which this current flow is measured . The amount of
energy consumed at a give n point-say, at a toaster or
a lig ht bulb-is measured in watts. Volts, amperes, and
watts are thus interrelated:
- Voltage: the potential to do work
(electrical pressure).
_Amperes: the rate of elect rical flow.
Watts: the rate at which energy is consumed.
Or, expressed as mathematical formulas:
- Watts:: Voltage x Amperes
_ Amperes:: Watts.;- Voltage
To reiterate brief ly, electricity, impelled by voltage, flows from the power source. Along the way (at
outlets), it encounters resistance and does work. It
then returns to the power source, it s voltage reduced
or spent.
To determine the load-bearing capacity of a ci rcuit
you want to extend , identify the circuit breaker controll in g the circu it and note the rating of the breaker. If
it's a general-purpose circuit, the breaker will probably
be 15 amp or 20 amp . A circuit controlled by a 15-am p
breaker has a capacity of 1,800w (15 amp x 120v); one
controlled by a 20-amp breaker, has 2,400w.
The total wattage of all energy users on the newly
extended ci rcuit must not exceed these capacities; otherwise, you risk overheating wires. To avoid
overloading, actua l load is calculated at 80 percent of
capacity. For example, 80 percent of 1,800w is 1,440w
for a 15-amp ci rcu it; 80 percent of 2,400w equals
1,920w for a 20-amp circuit.

tSafe capacity" 80 percent of total capacity.

IS THE SYSTEM ADEQUATELY SIZED?

I 161

IS THE SYSTEM ADEQUATELY SIZED? (CONTINUED)

RULES OF THUMB, continued

EXAMPLE OF LOAD CALCULATION FOR SINGLE FAMILY DWELLING

CALCULATING GENERAL LIGHTING LOAD

insurance companies. Upgrade the service,

and you r ins urance premiums may decrease.

Type of Load

NEC Reference

Calculation

In many setups with fused mai ns the re wi ll

Lighting Lo ad

Table 220-3 (b)

2000 sq.ft. X 3 VA

also be a fuse box in side, which distributes

Small Appliance Load

Section 220-16 (a)

1. circuit s

Laundry Load

Secti on 220-16 ( b)

~ c ircuit

power to house ci rcuits.

Adding outlets

If you 've got a breake r

panel, yo u can almost always add an outlet

or two or more lights, for instance. If, for
examp le, yo u have three-wire se rvice and a
100-amp mai n, there 's usually a lot of excess
capacity.

If there's space in the pa nel to remove a

knockout and add a breaker. go ahead. This
may be necessa r y jf you 're adding a home
enter tainme nt cent er or a computer.

Adding a kitchen or bath circuit

Fi rst, see if the re's space in t he pa nel to
some new light fi xtures, no problem. If you 're
adding a 20-a mp, small-applia nce circ uit to
reduce t he load on an existing Circ uit, you 're
probably okay.

;)QQ!L VA

1500 VA

Total General liqhtinq

10500 VA

o CALCULATING DEMAND FOR GENERAL LIGHTING LOAD

Type of Load

Calculation

Demand factor (Of)

General Lighting

First 3000 VA X OF

100%

3000 VA

General Lighting

7500 * X OF

35 %

Total VA
VA

O ~ VA

OCALCULATING DEMAND FOR LARGE LOAD APPLIANCES

Type of Load

Nameplate Ratinq

Demand factor (OF)

Electric Range

Not Over 12KVA

Use 8K VA

Clothes Dryer

...22..QQ V A X 0 F

Water Heater
Other Fi xed Appliances

VA

6600 VA

.2.6..Q.Q.. VA X OF

100%

----.0.... VA X OF

100%

.2.2l!ll. V A
-----.SL V A

o
Tot.1 VA

Minimum Service Size

Total VA
=

100%

Total Load for Large Appliances

add a breake r. If you 're adding a bat h fa n or

Remodeling a kitchen

X 1500 VA

X 1500 VA

I Total liqhtlnq, Small Appliances & Laundry

Adding a circuit for general use

Total VA
.QQQlL V A

(0.0)

Total VA /240V

21200 VA

26825 VA
=

VA

U se t his t o ca lculate
*To t al Ge n er al L ig ht ing L oa d 10,5 0 0 VA - First 3 000 V A = 7 5 0 0 V A

USING THIS TABLE

1. Square ft. for general lighting load is for the entire dwelling including habitable
Kitchens are

complicated and often full of big energy

use rs. Use the chart at r ig ht to help you
add up the loads. If t here aren't many
open spaces for breake rs, yo u may need to
upgrade t o a la rge r panel.

Adding dedicated circuits

If yo u need

to add dedicated ci rcu its for heavy-use it ems

such as an elec t ric range (50 amps) or a hot
t ub (60 amps), get out the calculator and do
t he ma th.

162 1 IS THE SYSTEM ADEQUATELY SIZED?

basements or attics.
2. NEC requires a minimum of 2 small appliance loads, but it is important to add small
fi xed kitchen appliances (microwaves , dispo sals, etc.) .
3. Minimum of 1 laundr y load is required for a single family dwelling.
4 . The demand factor c al c ulation is designed to take actual use into ac count (e.g. it is
unlikely all lights and small appliances will be running at one time).
5. All large load applian ces (high wattage) are added at 100% .
6. The final lo ad calculation is the minimum. Often in crea sing capacity has little cost
impact and is a good practice .

COMMON CODE REQUIREMENTS

lectricians follow the NEe, which was

kitchen, bath, and workshop circuits usu-

compiled to promote safe practices and

ally have 12AWG wire, protected by 20-amp

rate ground wire, whereas armored cable

prevent house fires. Consider these require-

breakers.

sheathing and metal conduit provide the path

ments before you start drawing plans, but be

-+ See
the faclnq paqe for more on
calculatlnq circuit loads.

to ground

sure to consult local electrical code-it is the

final authority in your area .
The requirements given here app ly to all

the service panel. NM cable contains a sepa-

0 -0.

Boxes
All electrical connections must take place in

circuits in the house, whether general light-

Acceptable cable

ing or heavy-use appliance circuits. Local

Most circuits are wired with NM Romex cable

ments, boxes may be plastic or metal. If met-

codes rarely require you to change existing

because they are protected behind finish sur-

al, the box must also be connected (bonded).

covered boxes. Based on local code require-

circuits-as long as they are safe-but new

faces. When circuit wiring is to be left unpro-

If NM cable is used, the ground wire must be

electrical work should reflect current elec-

tected and exposed, it must be armored

connected to the box with either a ground

trica l code.

cable or conduit.

screw or a ground clip. If AC cable or metal

-+ see
For more on cable and conduit.
p.

conduit is used, it must be properly attached

Circuit wirinq

204.

to the box to ensure effective bonding. If the

Wire gauge must be large enough to carry

box is plastic, it does not need to be (and

the circuit load and be protected by a com-

cannot be) grounded; run a ground wire to

parably sized breaker or fuse at the panel.

Groundinq

General-use and lighting circuits are typically

All receptacles, appliances, and electrical

14AWG wire, protected by a 15-amp breakers;

equipment must be connected (bonded) to

the device or fixture only.

COMMON CODE REQUIREMENTS

I 163

GENERAL-USE CIRCUIT REQUIREMENTS

enerat-use circuits are intended primarily for

KITCHEN LIGHTING BASICS

lighting; but small users, such as televisions,

fans, and vacuums, are allowed-as long as the loads

they draw don't exceed the capacity of the circuit.

Lighting and small users

Though 14AWG wire

is sufficient for lighting and switch runs, electricians

often run 12AWG wire on general-use circuits to accommodate future uses. Calculate lighting loads at 3w per

Kitchen liqhtinq should be desiqned to utilize

naturalllqht durinq the day and achieve a balance
of qeneralliqht and task liqhtinq at niqht. Do not
be afraid of enerqy efficient IIqhtlnq such as fluorescent . Today's enerqy efficient liqhtinq is instant,
dimmable. and available In colors that match Incandescent liqht. Kitchen liqhtinq is often hiqhly requ
lated for enerqy efficiency. Check with local buildinq
officials before you beqin your desiqn.

square foot. or roughly one 15-amp circuit for every

500 sq. ft. of floor space. When laying out the lighting
circuits, do not put all the lights on a floor on one circu it.
Otherwise, should a breaker trip, the entire floor would
be without lights.

Receptacles

There must be

a receptacle

within

GENERAL LIGHTING

General lighting is meant to illuminate the space

generally and can come from recessed cans , surface
mounted fixtures, track lighting, or cove uplighting.
Consider cabinetry and appliances when laying out new
light fixtures. A gene ral rule is 2w incandescent or 1w
fluorescent per square foot of kitchen area, but even
illumination is the goal.

6 ft. of each doorway, and receptacles should be

spaced at least eve ry 12 ft. along a wall. (This is also
stated as, "No space on a wall should be more than
6 ft. from a receptacle.") Any wall at least 2 ft. wide
must have a receptacle; and a receptacle is required in
hallway walls 10 ft. or longer.

Outlets

The NEC does not specify a maximum

number of outlets on a residential lighting or appliance

circuit, though local jurisdictions may. Figure roughly

TASK LIGHTING

Task lighting is meant to provi de a higher level of illumination at work areas (sinks, counter tops, and islands)
and can be achieved with recessed cans, pendants,
or undercabinet fixtures. If cabinets are over cou ntertops, undercabinet fixtures (T5 fluorescent or halogen
strips) are by far the best choice and shou ld be spaced
for even ill umination of the counter surface. For islands
and sinks choose a recessed can with a slightly higher
wattage and narrower lamp beam spread, or install
pendants with similar attributes.

9 outlets per 15-a mp circuit and 10 outlets per

20-amp circuit.

Light switches

There must be at least one

wall switch that co ntrols lig ht ing in habitable rooms,

the garage, and storage areas (including attics and
basements). There must be a switch near each outdoor
entrance. Three-way switches are required at each end
of corridors and at the top and bottom of stairs with
six steps or more. When possible, put switches near
the lights they co ntrol. It should be noted that the light
switch can control a receptacle (considered "lighting ")
in habitable rooms.

AFCI protection

All new 15-amp and 20-amp circuits

in bedrooms must have arc-fault circuit interrupter (AFCI)

breaker protection to guard against house fires.

164 1 GENERAL-USE CIRCUIT REQUIREMENTS

An AFCI breaker
can detect the
minute current
fluctuations
associated with
arcing. It then
shuts off power
to protect you
from house fires.

DEVELOPING A FLOOR PLAN

REQUIREMENTS
ROOM BY ROOM

::~.

Kitchen and bath appliances are heavy power users , so their

circuits must be sized accordingly.
GFCI PROTECTION
The NEC requires GFCI protection for art bathroom receptacles; all
receptacles serving kitchen counters; all outdoor receptacles; acces'
sible basement or garage receptacles; and receptacles near pools,
hot tubs, and the like. (Check the current NEC for a complete listing.)
BATHROOM CIRCUITS
Bathroom receptacles must be supplied by a 20-amp GFCI protected
circuit. The NEC allows the 20'amp circuit to supply the receptacles
of more than one bathroom or to supply the receptacles, lights, and
fans (excluding heating fans) in one bathroom . New or remodeled
bathrooms must have a vent fan.
rawing a set of project plans can help

you anticipate problems; find optimal

routes for running cable; minimize mess and

disruption; and in general, maximize your
time and money. A carefully drawn set of

SMALL-APPLIANCE CIRCUITS
There must be at least two 20-amp sma ll-appliance circuits in the
kitchen. No point along a kitchen countertop should be more than
2 ft. from an outlet-in other wo rds, space countertop receptacles
at least every 4 ft. Every counter at least 12 in. wide must have a
receptacle.

plans is also an important part of the code

compliance and inspection process.
If you're replacing only a receptac le,

switch, or light fixture, you usually don't

need to involve the local building department. But if you run cab le to extend a
circuit, add a new circuit, or plan extensive

upgrades, visit the building department to

learn loca l code requirements and take out

a permit.
As noted throughout this book, the NEe is
the foundation of national and local electrical

KITCHEN LIGHTING
Adequate lighting is pa r ticularly impo r tant in kitchens so people can
work safely and efficiently. Layout a good balance of general and
task lighting . Be aware that many jurisdictions have energy efficiency
requirements for lighting in kitchens so check with your local building
authority first.
BATHROOM LIGHTING
It is important to illuminate the face evenly in mirrors. Common
practice is to place good quality light sources either above the va nity
mirror or on either side of it. Be carefu l when using recessed cans
over the vanity for they can leave shadows across the face. Many
jurisdictions also ha ve energy efficiency requirements for lighting in
bathrooms including lighting and occupancy sensors .

codes for homes and businesses . Local code

authorities have the final say. Your wiring
plans should be approved by a local building
inspector before you start the project.

Phone first
Call the building department and ask if loca l

DEDICATED CIRCUITS
All critical-use and fixed appliances must have their own dedicated
(separate) circuits. These appliances include the water pump, freezer,
refrigerator, oven, cooktop, microwave, furnace and/or whole-house
air-cond itioning unit. garbage disposal, window air conditioners, and
water heater. A bathroom heater requires a dedicated circuit whether
it is separate unit or part of a light/fan. Laundry room receptacles
must be on a dedicated circuit. as should an electric clothes dryer.

codes allow homeowners to do electrical

work or if it must be done by a licensed elec+
trician. You may be required to take a test to
prove basic competency. This is also a good
time to ask if the munic ipal ity has pamphlets
that give an overview of local electrical code
requirements.

'II '
w,,~

TRADE SECRET

Map your electrical system and place a copy near the

panel so that you can quickly identify an outlet later
if a circuit breaker trips or a fuse blows.

DEVELOPING A FLOOR PLAN

I 165

DEVELOPING A FLOOR PLAN (CONTINUED)

Read up

MATERIALS LIST: LIGHTING AND SWITCHES

Make a roug h sketch of the work you propose,

develop a rudimentary materials list, and then

This materials list was derived from "E lectrical Plan:

apply for a permit. At the time you apply, the

Lighting and Switches La yer," on p. 169.

building department clerk may be able to

you 've done thus far. This feedback often

ROUGH
Fixture housings

proves invalua ble.

4 ea .

3/0 or 4/0 metal boxes with bar hangars

(verify fixture requirements)

Inspectors inspect

3 ea.

4/0 NM boxes with bar hangars

(wal l fixtures only)

One-gang NM adjustable boxes

answer questions ge nerated by the legwork

Type 4, 6, and 5

Inspectors are not on staff to tell you how to

4 ea.

plan or execute a job, so ma ke your questions as

2 ea.

Two-gang NM adjustable boxes

specific as possible. Prese nt you r rough sketch,

4 ea.

Three-gang NM bo xes

discuss the mate ria ls you inte nd to use, and

17 ea.

Romex connectors

500 It.

14/2 NM Romex: 24 fixtures x 15 ft. ave.

360 ft. (use excess for home runs,
3 x 50 150 ft.)

105 ft.

12/3 NM Romex (use remaining from

power rough)

ask

jf

there are specific requirements for the

room(s) you'll be rewi ring. For example, must

bedroom receptacles have AFCI protection?
Must kitche n wall re ceptacles be GFCls if they
are not ove r a counter? Be specific.

Draw up plans
Based on the feedback you've gotten, draw

NOTE:
Staples, screws, and nail plates from power rough materials list.

deta iled plans. Th ey should include each switch,

Recommendations:
Verify all surface-mounted fixtures before rough. Some have

receptacle, and fixture as well as the paths

very small canopies and must have a 3/0 or even a 1 gang box.

between switc he s and the device(s) they control.

From this drawing, you can develop your materi-

For undercabinet lights, do not install a box. Stub cab le out of wa ll

approximately 6 in. higher than the bottom of the upper cabinet. This

als list. Number each ci rcuit or, better yet. assign

way the drywall can be notched and the cab le brought down to the

a different color to each circuit. When you feel

perfect height by the cabinet installer. If undercabinet fixtures are to

the plans are complete, schedule an appoint-

be installed at the front of the cabinet, some trim piece or metal sheath

ment with an inspector to review them.

must be put over the NM cable to protect it from the wall to the fixture.
For recessed and other ceiling lighting, la yout fixtures on the floor and
use a plumb bob or laser to set fixtures on the ceiling.
To align straight ro ws of ceiling fixtures, use a taut line .

TRIM
Trims and lamps

166 1 DEVELOPING A FLOOR PLAN

Type 4, 6, 5

Fixtures and lamps

Type 1, 2, 3 , 5, 8, 9,10

6 ea.

Single-pole Decora switches

5 ea.

Three-way Decora switches

2 ea.

Single-pole Decora dimmers

1 ea.

Four-way Decora dimmer

1 ea.

Cecora timer

3 ea.

Three-gang plastic Decora plates

1 ea.

Two-gang Decora plate

4 ea .

One-gang plastic plates

4 ea.

Romex con ne ctors

Listen well, take notes

MATERIALS LIST: POWER

Be tow key an d respec tful when yo u meet wi th

t he inspec t or t o review yo ur plans . Firs t. yo u're

This materials list was determined from " Electrical Plan:

mo re li kely to get yo ur questions answered .

The Power Layer ," on p. 169.

Seco nd, yo u'll beg in to develop a pe rso nal rapport. Because one in spec t or will often trac k a

ROUGH

project from start to finish, t his is a perso n who

18 ea.

ca n ease you r way or ma ke it muc h mo re dif-

1 ea.

One-qanq metal cut-in box

fi cult. So play it st raig ht. ask questio ns, liste n

1 ea.

Two-gang NM adjustable bo x (o ven)

One-gang NM adjustable boxes

well, take notes, and-above all-do n't argue

3 ea.

NM (Romex) connectors

or (ome in wi th an attitude.

1 ea.

Box (500) 3/ 4 -in. staples

(to be used in rouqh lighting also)

On-site inspections

1 ea.

Box (100) nail plates (to be used in rouqh liqhtinq also)

Once the inspec t or app roves you r plans, you ca n

500 ft.

12/2 NM Romex (2 x 250ft. rolls): 20 units @ 15 ft. ave.

300 ft ( 4 home runs @ 50 ft. av e. 200 ft.)

250 ft.

12/3 NM Romex (1 x 250ft. roll): 2 home runs @ 50 ft.

ave. 100 ft. (use remainder in rough lighting )

50 ft .

10/3 NM (purchase cut to lenqth): 1 home run

start wo rk ing. In most cases, th e inspect or will

visit your site whe n t he wi ring is ro ughed in and
again when the wi ring is finished. Don't ca ll for

an inspec ti on un t il each stage is co mplete.

50 ft.

Bag (250) red wire connectors (to be used in rough

lighting also)
Container (500) wafer-head #10 x

3/ 4 -in.

screws

TRIM

TRADE SECRET
If you're remodeling, keep in mind
that every finish surface you drill
or cut into is a surface that you'll
have to patch later. So minimize
cutting and drilling.

16 ea.

Duplex receptacles 15-amp or 20-amp rated

3 ea.

GFCI receptacles (15 amp with 20-amp feed through)

1 ea.

30-amp/220v receptacle (verify with ranqe manufacturer)

16 ea .

1 qanq plastic duplex plates

1 ea.

30-amp/220v plate

NOTE:
GFCls are packaged with their plates.

DEVELOPING A FLOOR PLAN

I 167

ELECTRICAL NOTATION

tart by making an accurate floor plan of the room or

rooms to be rewired using

1/4

in. = 1 ft. scale graph

paper. Indicate walls and permanent fixtures such as

CDuntertops, kitchen islands, cabinets, and any large appliances. By photocopying this floor plan, you can Quickly

generate to-scale sketches of various wiring schemes .

Use the appropriate electrical symbols to indicate
the locations of receptacles, switches, light fixtures,
and appliances.

~ For a key of electrical symbols, see "Common

Electrical Symbols," at rllJht.
Especially when drawing kitchens, which can be
incredibly complex, use colored pencils to indicate
different circuits. You can also number circuits, but
colored circuits are distinguishable at a glance. Use
solid lines to indicate cable runs between receptacles
and switches and dotted lines to indicate the cables
that run between switches and the light fixtu res or
receptacles they controL
The beauty of photocopies is that you can experiment
with different options quickly. As you refine the draw+
ings, refer back to the list of requirements given earlier

COMMON
ELECTRICAL
SYMBOLS
Duplex
receptacle

=l

counters, that there ar e switches near doorways, and so

on. Ultimately, you'll need a final master drawing with
everything on it. But you may also find it helpful to make
individual drawings-say, one for lighting and one for
receptacles-if the master drawing gets too busy to read.
jf

you have questions or want to highlight a fixture

type, use callouts on the floor plan. As you decide which

fixtures and devices you want to install, develop a sepa+
rate materials list and use numbered keys to indicate
where each piece goes on the master drawing. Finally,
develop a list of all materia ls, so you'll also have enoug h
boxes, cable connectors, wire connectors, staples, and
so on. In short, list all you need to do the job.

-+ onForpp.more166"167.
on ereatln; a materials list. see t he charts

oaccommodate
Running 12/2 cable will
the dishwasher
circuit.

=)GFCI

ogeneral
Use 14/2 cable for all
lighting home runs

Fourplex
receptacle

=$

(cable runs back to the

service panel) .

240v
receptacle

=@

GFCI duplex
receptacle

Weatherproof
receptacle
Switched
receptacle

-BwP

Single-pole
switch

Three-way
switch

S3

Switch
leq

".--,

Home run
(to service "..--.,.
panel)
Recessed
light fixture
Wall mounted
fixture

Verify the dimmer load;

dimmers must be de-rated
when ganged together.

to be sure that you have an adequate number of recep+

tacles, that you have GFCI receptac les over kitchen

LIGHTING AND
SWITCHES LAYER

POWER LAYER

oreceptacle
Feed-through wiring of GFCI
at beginning of run so
It affords protection to receptacles
downstream (see the top right
drawing on p. 171)

osinkDishwasher
circuit. Install under
in cabinet. Cut hot (gold) tab
on receptacle to split receptacle for
two circuits. Leave neutral (sliver)
tab intact. Be sure to install on
two- pole breaker with handle t ie.

Ceiling
outlet

-D
0

Ceiling pull
switch

Single-location GFCI protection.

Do not feed through (see the bottom drawing on p. 171).

Junction
box

Q)

a Stove is gas, so receptacle is

Vent
fan

'OWF

Ceiling
fan

'OcF

Telephone
outlet

Two-wire
cable

Three-wire
cable

only for Igniter and clock and okay

to run with hood . Leave NM cable
stubbed at ceiling , leave 3 ft. to
4 ft. of sl ack for termination In
hood/trim. (NOTE: Never run a
stove Iqniter off GFCI-protected
circuit as It will trip the GFCI every
time the stove is turned on.)

G Use 12/3 cable for home run,

so a single cable takes care of
dedicated refrigerator circuit and
counter (small-appliance) circuit.

G Home run for counter

(smail-appliance) circu it 2 .

ospecifications
Oven outlet. Refer to unit
to verify receptacle
or hard-wired connection.

168 1 ELECTRICAL NOTATION

ELECTRICAL PLAN: LIGHTING

AND SWITCHES LAYER
A professional's electrical floor plan may be daunting at first, but It'll start to make sense
as you become familiar with the symbols used. To make the plans easier to read. they
have been divided Into two layers: (1) lighting and switches and (2) power, which
consists of receptacles and dedicated circuits. (There's some overlap.) The circled letters
are callouts that Indicate areas warranting special attention. The circled numbers
correspond to a list (on p.166) that specifies the type of fixture. Drawing switch legs and

circuits In different colors makes a plan much easier to read.

All circuits for recessed, drop, and undercablnet

lighting are noted In different colors. Be certain
to track each circuit back to the appropriate
wall switch.

ELECTRICAL PLAN: THE POWER LAYER

This kitchen remodel is typical in that it has many dedicated circuits (also called
designated circuits) and, per Code, at least two 20-amp appliance circuits wired with
#12 cable. Circled letters are callouts that correspond to the lettered notes.

(ljJ "'. ,"U

~L.OG "1'I<

.. "

.oce!.. ..
~

Any receptacle that ser vices the countertop

must be GFCI protected. Refrigerators, however,
should be run on a non-GFCI receptacle.

ELECTRICAL NOTATION

I 169

RECEPTACLES
RECEPTACLE IN MIDCIRCUIT

FEEDING WIRES
THROUGH RECEPTACLE
(not recommended)

By splicing like wire groups and running plqtalls (short wires)

to the receptacle in this conventional method, you ensure

Attaching hot and neutral wires directly to receptacle

terminals is quicker and results in a lesscrowded box.
However, with this wiring method, if the receptacle fails,
power can be disrupted to downstream outlets. Note:
ground wires are always spliced to ensure continuity_

continuous current downstream.

Incoming

power
TWist-on wire

power

Hot
pigtail

Neutral ----j'l-~

RECEPTACLE
AT END OF CIRCUIT

he diagrams in this section show most of t he circuit wiring

variations that you're likely to need when wiring receptacles,

fixtures, and switches. Unless otherwise noted, assume that incoming

cab le (from the power source) and all others are two-wire cable with
ground, such as 14/2 w/grd or 12/2 w/grd (:li14 wire should be protected by 15-amp breakers or fuses; # 12 wire should be protected by
20-amp breakers) .

-+ See "Appliances" on p.

210 for more wlrln; schematics.

All metal boxes must be grounded. Assume that non-grounded

boxes in the wiring diagrams are nonmetallic (plastic) unless otherwise specified. In sheathed cables, ground wires are ba re coppe r.
Black and red wires indicate hot co nductors. (Some devices with
multiple wire leads also use blue hot wires.) White wires indicate
neut r al conducto r s, unless taped blacK to indicate that the wi r e is
being used as a hot conductor in a switch leg.

170

I RECEPTACLES

Incoming ----'.,..\
power

Because there
are no receptacles
downstream, attach
all wires directly to
the device.

GANGED RECEPTACLES
IN METAL BOX
A two-gang box with fourplex (double duplex) receptacles
will be crowded. If the box Is metal, use insulated ground
pigtails and ground the box.

GFCI RECEPTACLE,
MULTIPLE-LOCATION PROTECTION
A GFCI receptacle can protect devices downstream
if wired as shown. Attach wires from the power source
to terminals marked "line." Attach wires continuing
downstream to terminals marked "load." As with any

receptacle, attach hot wires to gold screws, white wires

Grounding screw
Incoming power

Grounding pigtail

to silver screws, and a grounding pigtail to the ground

screw. Note: Here, only ground wires are spliced; hot and
neutral wires attach directly to screw terminals.

Spliced
ground
wires

- - ---fflI

To devices

-1~~~~~

downstream

Neutral ----1~'----~

Devices
Include
receptacles,
switches, and
light fixtures.

GFCI RECEPTACLE, SINGLE-LOCATION PROTECTION

This configuration provides

GFCI protection at one locationsay, near a sink-while leaving
devices downstream unprotected.
Here, splice hot and neutral wires
so the power downstream is continu
ous and attach pigtails to the GFCl's
"line" screw terminals. With this
setup, receptacle use downstream
won't cause nuisance tripping of
the GFCI receptacle.

Incoming
power

----~--..,::::,,-- To devices
downstream

RECEPTACLES

I 171

SWITCHES & LIGHTS

LIGHT FIXTURE
AT END OF CABLE RUN

BACK-FED SWITCH
AT END OF CABLE RUN

Switch wiring at its simplest: Incoming and outgoing

Attach the incoming neutral to a fixture lead; run the

hot wires attach to the terminals of a sinqle~pole switch.

hot to a switch at the end of the cable. Use the white wire

Neutrals and ground are continuous.

of a twowire cable as one of the hot wires attaching to the

Gr,our,dllnq screw

switch-but tape both ends of the white wire black to show

that it's hot.
Incoming
power

Metal box - -

--;'-

Grou n ding sCI'ew' ----c7"S;.--~!<t

Hot white wire
taped black

- -++-- - -+j'7?i1

=r-- - Nonmetallic box

~~~?,,'---- Neu! ral

-If--

Nonmetallic
box

h L - - - lncominq power

Hot white wire

taped black

GANGED SWITCHES, TWO FIXTURES

This is a typical setup for switches by exterior doors. For

example, one single-pole switch controls an exterior light

fixture, while the second switch controls an interior fixture.
To fixtures
Two-gang - - - -

nonmetallic
box

Switch
legs

172 1 SWITCHES

& LIGHTS

CLOSEUP: THREE-WAY SWITCH

Three-way switches
control a fixture
from two locations.
Each switch has two
gold screws and a
black screw (common
termlnan. The hot
wire from the source
attaches to the
common terminal
of the first switch.
Traveler wires between the switches
attach to the gold
screws. Finally,
a wire runs from the
common terminal
of the second switch
to the hot lead of
the fixture.

rt''t---+tr--

Traveler
wires attach to
gold screws.

Common (COM)
terminal

THREE-WAY SWITCHES, LIGHT FIXTURE BETWEEN

Travelers

, ', , - Three-wire

cable

Three-wire cOI.le - - - - - +

In this setup, two

three-way switches
control a light fixture placed between
them . Run three-wire
cables between each
switch and the fixture.
Whenever you use a
white wire as a switch
leg, tape it black to
indicate that it's hot.

Incominq power
(two-wire cable)

Common
(COM)
terminal

Ground screw

Travelers

THREE-WAY SWITCHES, LIGHT FIXTURE AT START OF CABLE RUN

Here, incoming power enters through
the fixture box.

Incoming power
(two-wire cable)

......rI'-'>r-t-'t---"

Grounding screw In metal box

Thlree-wire cable

Tw"-,,Irecable

Switch leq - --F

Common
(COM)
terminal

Hot white wire

taped black
Travelers

SWITCHES & LIGHTS

I 173

RECEPTACLES, SWITCHES & LIGHTS

THREE-WAY SWITCHES, LIGHT FIXTURE AT END OF CABLE RUN
Two three-way switches

~-:::::::::::::=~ ~=:!~J- Grounding

precede the fixture on

the circuit.

screw In
metal box

Three-wire
cable

TWo-wire cable --""./

Ground

wires

Ill?'~\t~ir-- Common
(COM)

terminal

Travelers

SPLIT-TAB RECEPTACLE CONTROLLED BY SWITCH, SWITCH UPSTREAM,

REGULAR RECEPTACLE DOWNSTREAM
This setup is commonly used to meet NEe requirements if there is no switch-controlled ceiling fixture. As shown, the switch
controls only the bottom half of the split-tab receptacle. The top half of the split-tab receptacle and all receptacles down-

stream are always hot. Removing the tab Is shown in photo 1 on p. 49.

Thlree'wllre cable

Top half
hot

Incominq power

(two-wire cable

" ,,,-- - Two-wire cable

Always hot

Controlled by switch

174 1 RECEPTACLES, SWITCHES

& LIGHTS

- -=-",!,..I.!!I

Tab removed

SPLIT-TAB RECEPTACLE CONTROLLED BY SWITCH,

SWITCH AT END OF CABLE RUN
The switch
controls the
bottom half of
the split-tab

Tab removed

receptacle.
The white wire
feeding the switch
is taped black
to indicate that
it is being used

as a hot wire.

Controlled by switch

SPLIT-TAB RECEPTACLE AT START OF CABLE RUN

Incoming po"er -

The switch controls

the bottom half
of the split-tab

, ',

Top half always hot

Always hot

receptacle on the
left. The top half of

the same receptacle

stays hot. as does
the regular duplex

Tab ---"I>="~~J

receptacle on the

removed

right. The white wire

is taped black to
show it Is being used

Controlled
by switch

as a hot wire.

=:::::::~==::::~y Hot white wire

taped black

120/240V RANGE RECEPTACLE

This dedicated circuit
requires an 10/3 cable
with ground and a doublepole 30-amp breaker. Two
120v hot wires terminate
to "hot" setscrews on the
receptacle and the breaker
poles; the neutral wire to
the " neut" setscrew on
the receptacle and the
neutral/ground bus bar in
the service panel .

10/3 cable

Groundinq plqtail to
range housing

1 IIJFlt;.-::.~V~ Hot

bus bar

30-amp double
pole breaker

Neutral

RECEPTACLES, SWITCHES & LIGHTS

I 175

-----,1

OUGH-IN
IRING
R

OUGH-IN WIRING REFERS TO THE

first ph... of a wlrlnll Installation.
It I. the stalle at which you set outlet boxes and run electrical cable to thema. opposed to finish wlrlnCJ, or connectlnCJ
wires to devices.
RouCJh-ln wlrlnCJ Is pretty stralCJhtforward
when studs and Jol.t. are expo.ed. Whether
a hou.e Is new or old, runnlnCJ wires throuCJh

176

expo.ed framlnCJ I. called new work, or new

construction. If the framlnCJ Is covered with
finish surfaces .uch as plaster and drywall,
however, the Job Is referred to .. remodel
wfrfnl/. Remodel wlrlnCJ Is almost always
more compllcat.d and costly because first
you must drill throuCJh or cut Into finish
.urfaces to In.tall boxes and run cable, and
later you need to patch the holes you made.

ROUGH-IN BASICS

ait unt il rough carpentry is complete

preferably at eye level so you can read them

before you begin rough-in wiring. Part

easily. Checking and rechecking the plans is

of an electrician's job is setting boxes so

particularly important if you 're not a profes-

3 . Attach boxes to studs and ceiling joists.

they'll be flush to finished surfaces . Thus,

sional electrician.

4 . Drill holes for cable runs.

before an electrician starts working, modifj-

Be flexible. As you layout devices, you'll

2 . Snap chalklines or shoot laser lines to

pinpoint box elevations and so on.

5 . Pull cable through holes and into boxes.

cations to the framing - such as furring out

realize that not everything specified on the

or planing down irregular studs and ceil ing

plans is possible; most plans are developed

wires, attach grounds, attach mud rings,

joists-must be complete. If you're not sure

without knowing exact ly what the framing

and push wires into boxes.

how wel l the studs are aligned, hold a long

looks like or where obstructions are . Be flex-

straightedge across their edges and took for

ible and choose a solution that makes sense.

high and low spots.

Organize Your Work

Where to Start

6 . Make up boxes- strip wire ends, splice

7. Rough-in inspection.
After the inspection, finish surfaces are
installed . Then, at the t rim-out or finish
stage, wires are attached to the devices.

Perform one task at a time. Each task- such

Wait until the plumbers are gone. Waste

as setting boxes or drilling-requires a differ-

pipes are large and often difficult to locate,

ent set of tools. So once you have the tools

which usually means a lot of drilling and cut-

out to do a given task, go around the room

At the rough-in stage, inspectors look for

ting into studs and joists. Once the plumbing

and complete all similar tasks. YOU'll become

a few key signs of a job well done: cables

pipes are in place, you'll clearly see what

more proficient as you go: You waste less

properly sized for the loads they'll carry; the

obstacles you face and will have more room

time changing tools, and the job goes much

requisite number and type of outlets speci -

to move around .

faster. In genera!, the sequence of rough-in

fied by Code; cables protected by nail plates

tasks looks like this:

as needed; neat. consistent work throughout

Check your plans often . If there's not a

table on-site where you can roll out your
electrical plans, staple them to a stud-

The Rough-In Inspection

the system; and, above all, ground wires

1. Walk the room with plans, marking outlet

spliced and, in metal boxes, secured to a

locations on walls and floor.

When runnlnq cable around doors and windows, find the easiest path. Consider drillinq
throuqh wall plates and runninq cable in the floor above or below.

178 1 ROUGH-IN BASICS

REMODEL WIRING
SAFETY ESSENTIALS
Before removing box covers or handling wires, turn off the power to the area
and use a voltage tester to be sure it's off.
First remove the fuse or flip off the circuit breaker contro lling the circuit
and post a sign on the main panel warning people of work in progress. Better yet, if you've got circuit breakers, do as the pros do and install a breaker
lockout so it will be impossible for anyone to turn it on. Breaker lockouts are
available at electrical supply houses and most home centers.
~ For more on lockouts. see p. 238.

Testi ng for power is particularly important in remode l wiring, because walls

and cei lings often contain old cables that are energized. Here, an inductance
tester is espec ially useful. Simply touch the tester tip to cable sheathing or
wire insulation. That is, you don't have to touch the tester tip to bare wires to
get a reading: If a cable, wi re or electrical device is energized, the tip will glow.
An inductance tester can detect current through cable sheathing.
Whatever tester you use, test it first on an outlet that you know is live to
make sure the tester is working properly.
During the rough ln Inspection, Inspectors
demand solid ground-wire splices and, In
metal boxes, a ground screw or clip that
secures the ground wire.

ground screw. If grounds aren't complete,

you won't pass the rough-in inspection.
At this inspection, only grounds need to
be spliced. But since you've got the tools
out, it makes sense to splice neutrals and
continuous hot wires (those not attached to
switches).

~ For more on IJroundtnlJ. lee p. 12.

When all splices are complete, ca refully
fold the wire groups into the box. When
you come back to do the trim-out stage,

Always use a voltage tester to test for power before touching cables, devices,
or fixtures.

simply pull the wires out of the box , connect

wires to devices, and install devices and
cover plates.
Connecting circuit wires to a main panel
or subpanel is the very last step of an
installation. As noted throughout this book,
you should avoid handling energized cables
or devices.

~~ WARNING
,

~,

Make an emergency plan. It may be as simple as

carrying a cell phone or having a friend close by-never
do electrical work alone. Calling 911 is an obvious first step
if an emergency occurs. On the job site, you should also
post directions to the nearest hospital and a list of phone
numbers of people to contact.

ROUGHIN BASICS

I 179

TOOLS FOR ROUGH-IN

ost of the tools you'll need for rough-in

wiring are discussed in Chapter 2, 50

here we'l( focus on tools that make rough-in
easier and more productive.

Safety tools inc lude voltage testers

(especially an inductance tester), eye protection, work gloves, hard-soled shoes,
kneepads, a dust mask, and a hard hat. Hard

hats are clunky but essential when you're

working in attics, basements or any other
location with limited headroom. Every job
site should also have a fire extinguisher and
a first aid kit visibly stored in a central
location .
Adequate lighting, whether drop lights or
light stands, is essential to both job safety
and accuracy. If a site is too dark to see
what color wires you 're working with, your
chances of wrong connections increase.
Sturdy stepladders are a must. In the electrical industry, only fiberglass stepladders
are Occupationa l Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) compliant because they're
nonconductive. Wood ladders are usually
nonconductive when dry, but if they get
rained on or absorb ambient moisture, wood
ladders can conduct electricity.
Shop vacuums, push brooms, dust pans,
and garbage cans help keep the workplace
clean. And a clean site is a safe site. Clean
up whenever debris makes footing unsafe,
especially if you're cutting into walls or ceilings. Plaster lath is especially dangerous
because it's loaded with sharp little nails
that can pierce the soles of your shoes.
Layout tools include tape measures, spirit

180

There's also a nut-dri ve r bit that fits into a

screw gun

e,but it tends to overtighten

A V2-i n. right-angle drill is the workhorse

of rough-in wiring because it has the muscle

levels, chalklines, and lasers. Rough-in is a

misleading term because there's nothing

wire connectors if you're not experienced in

using it. If you'l) be cutting into and patching

to drill through hard old lumber. If you use

a standard 6-in.-long auger bit. the drill

rough or crude about locating fixtures or

receptacles-layout is very exacting. For that

plaster or drywall. get a drywall saw and a

taping knife. A flat bar (for prying) and an

head and bit will fit between studs and joists

reason, levels and plumb lasers are increas-

old, beat-up wood chisel are always busy in

drill perpendicular to the framing to make

ingly common when laying out kitchen and

bathroom outlets O.

remode ls, too.

Power tools help speed many tasks.

their merits: An 18-in. self-feeding auger

The most used hand tools are the same

pliers, cutters, strippers, levels, and screw-

Always wear eye protection when using

them. A screw gun is preferable to na iling

bores easily through several studs or

bit
doubled wall plates.

dri vers mentioned throughout this book. It's

also handy to have a wire-nut driver 0 if

most of the time because you can easily

remove a screw if you want to repOSition,

say, to retrofit pancake boxes or recessed

you 've got dozens of splices to make up.

say, an outlet box.

light cans-use a fine-toothed hole saw.

I TOOLS fOR ROUGH-IN

spaced 16-in. on -center. It enables you to

wire pulling easier. Longer bits also have

To cut larger holes in plaster or drywall -

Remodel wiring tools. From right: drywall saw, fie xl bit.

F extension,
flexlblt steering guide, reel of fishlnq tape.

Use a sabe rsaw or rota r y cut-out tool to

A well-organi zed tool belt prevents you from looking for tools

all day long .

cut ind ividual box ope nings into finish su r-

Use a demolition sawblade to cut through

wood th at contai ns na ils or sc rews. It'll ho ld

faces. When cuttin g through pl aster lath,

up to such heavy work.

alternate cut s on eac h side of the opening

Th ere are a numb er of special t y tools

~ For more on pullin,

c.bl., I p. 197.

A 48 -i n. drill exte nsion will increase the

effective drilling le ngth of a fle xi bit. Use an
insulated steering guide t o kee p the fle xib it
from bowi ng excessively. In a pi nch, elect ri-

rather th an cu tting one si de com pletely. This

designed to ease rough-i n. A wi re reel, a

will ke ep the lath from fluttering and cracking the pl aste r. Use a re ci proc ating saw to

rotating dispenser that enables you to pull

ca ble easily to distant points, is wo rth hav-

cians wear a heavy work glove to guide a

cut through framing or throug h plaster lath

ing. Reels hold 250 ft. of cable O. A 25-ft.

fishing tape-a flexible steel . fiberg lass, or

from shocks if you accident ally drill through

to create a cable trenc h.

-+- "or
more on cre.tllHJ
p. 196.

nylon tape-enables yo u to pull cable behind

8

cable trench,

fl exibi t. but a glove may not protect yo u

an ene rgized cable.

finish surfaces G. In most cases, however

it's simpler to use a fl exibit to drill through
framing in one direction.

TOOLS fOR ROUGH-IN

I 181

MATERIALS FOR ROUGH-IN

Slnqle-qanq box with
Grip-lok tab .d

Single-gang box

Heavywelqht bar

with swivel ears

Heavyweiqht remodel bar

Goof ring

(used when

a box Is set
too deep)

Double-gang
box with

swivel

Llqhtwelqht bar

ears

Round ceiling
box with metal

spring ears

Cut-in (remodel) boxes and

accessories.

Adjustable bar hanqers.

Romex cable connectors.

s with tools, most of the materials in-

box snug to the backside of the wall or

stalled during the rough-in phase were

cei ling. The devices that anchor boxes

discussed in Section 2 and can be installed

either in new construction or remodel wiring.

vary greatly O.
Code requires that exhaust fan boxes

There are, however, a number of specialized

and ceiling boxes be mounted to framing.

boxes, hanger bars, and other elements

Expandab le remodel bar hangers accommo-

intended for remodel wiring that can be

date this requirement

installed with minimal disruptions to existing

finish surfaces.

0 , ct.

Cab le connectors (also called clamps)

solidly connect cable to the box to prevent

Remodel (cut-in) boxes mount to exist-

strain on electrical connections inside the

a.Cable clamps also prevent sheathing

ing finish surfaces- unlike new-work boxes,

box

which attach to framing. Most cut-in boxes

from being scraped or punctured by sharp

WHAT CAN
GO WRONG

have sma !! ears that rest on the plaster or

box edges. Plastic boxes come with integral

Don't forget to leave

drywall surface to keep boxes from falling

plastiC spring clamps inside. If you use metal

12 in. to 18 in. of cable

into the wall or cei ling cavity. Spring clamps,

boxes, insert plastic push-in connectors into

sticking out of each

folding tabs, or screw-adjustable wings

the box knockouts; no other cable connector

on the box are then expanded to hold the

is as quick or easy to install in tight spaces.

box for connecting

devices later.

18z 1 MATERiALS

fOR ROUGH-IN

Rough-in recap: electrical code

Ordering Materials
In general, order 10 percent extra of all boxes and cover
plates (they crack easily) and the exact number of swit ches,
receptacles. light fixtures, and othe r devices specified on
the plans. It's okay to order one or two extra switches and
receptacles, but because they're costly, pros try not order

too many ext ras.

Cable is anot her matter altogether. Calculating the
amou nt of cable ca n be tricky because there are infinite
ways to route cable between two points . Electricians
typically measure the running distances between several pairs of boxes t o come up with an average le ngth.
Th ey then use that average to calculate a total for each
room. In new work, for example. boxes spaced 12 ft.
apart (per Code) take 15 ft. to 20 ft. of cable to run
about 2 ft. above the boxes and drop it down to each
box. After you've ca lculated cable for the whole job, add
10 percent.
Cable for remodel jobs is t ougher to calculate because
it' s impossible to know what obstructions hide behind
fin is h surfaces. You may have to fish cable up to the top
of wall plates, across an attic, and then down to each

Circuit breakers, wiring, and devices must

be correctly sized for the loads they carry.
For example, 20-amp circuits require
12AWG wire and receptacles rated for 20
amps. Mismatching circuit elements can
lead to house fires.
All wire connections must be good
mechanical connections. There must be
good pressure between the connectors
you are joining, whether wires are spliced
together or connected to a device. For
that reason, buy devices with screw terminals rather than back-wired (stab-in)
devices whose Internal clamps can deform.
Deformed clamps can lead to loose wires,
arcing, and house fires.
All wire connections must be housed
In a covered box.
Boxes must be securely attached to framing
so that normal use will not loosen them.

box. Do so me explo r ing, measure that imaginary route

and again create an average cable length to multiply.
If it takes, say, 25 ft. for each pair of wall boxes and
you have eig ht outlets to wire, then 8 outlet s x 25 ft. =
200 ft. Add 10 percent, and your tota l is 220 ft. Because
the ave r age r oll of wire sold at home center contains
250 ft.. one roll should do it.

Have materials
on hand when
It's time to start
installlnq boxes.
Electric ians
often walk from
room to room,
droppinq a box
wherever floor
plans Indicate.

Box edges must be flush to finish surfaces.

In noncombustible surfaces (drywall,
plaster) there may be a '/4-in. gap between
the box edge and the surface. But in combustible surfaces, such as wood paneling,
there must be no gap.
All newly installed devices must be
grounded. Code allows you to replace
an existing two-prong receptacle or to
replace a nongrounded box that has
become damaged. However, If you Install
a new three-prong receptacle, It must
be grounded. The only exception: You
can install a three-prong receptacle into
an ungrounded box If that new device is
a ground-fault circuit Interrupter (GFCI)
receptacle. If you extend a circuit, the
entire circuit must be upgraded to
current Code.
In new rough-in work, cable must be
supported within 12 In. of any box and
every 4 '/2 ft. thereafter.

MATERIALS fOR ROUGH-IN

I 183

LAYING OUT THE JOB

ith the electrical plans in hand, walk

each room and mark box locations

for receptacles, switches, and light fixtures.

Each device must be mounted to a box
which houses its wiring connections. The
only exceptions are devices that come with
an integral box, such as bath fans, recessed
light cans, and undercabinet light fixtures

O.

Mark receptacles and switches on the

walls first. Then mark ceiling fixtures. If
studs and joists are exposed, use a vividly
co lored crayon that will show up on the
wood. If there are finish surfaces, use a pen cil to mark wal ls at a height where you can

see the notations easily-these marks will

be painted over later. Near each switch box,

draw a letter or number to indicate which

fixture the switch controls.
Once you've roughly located boxes on
the walls, use a laser level

to set exact

box heights for each type of box.

~ For more on box helqhts. see "Rouqh-In
Recap: Box Locations." on the faclnq paqe.

Use the laser to indicate the top,

bottom, or center lines of the boxes

O.

Many electricians prefer to determine

level with the laser, then snap a permanent
chalkline at that height so they can move
the laser to other rooms

O.

To locate ceiling fixtures, mark them

on the floor

and use a plumb laser

to transfer that mark up to the ceiling

0
O.

This may seem counterintuitive, but it will

save you a lot of time . Floors are flat. almost
always the same size and shape as the ceilings above and - perhaps most

important~

accessible and easy to mark. In complex

rooms, such as kitchens, draw cabinet and
island outl ines onto the floor as well. Those
out lines wi ll help you fine-tune ceiling light
positions to optimally illuminate work areas.

184 1 LAYING OUT THE JOB

Avoiding hot wires In remodels, there may be live

wires behind linish surfaces. Use an inductance tester to
test receptacles, switches, fixtures, and any visible wires.
The cables feeding those devices will be nearby. Wall
receptacles are usually fed by cables running 1 ft. to 3 ft.
above. Switches often have cable runs up to a top plate;
each ceiling fixture has cable running to the switch(es)
controlling it. Avoid drilling or cutting into those areas,
and you'll minimize the risk of shock.

Rough-in recap:
box locations

iW~~

, II 1.

WHAT CAN GO WRONG

When marking box locations on finish

surfaces, use a pencil-never a crayon,

grease pencil, or a felt~tipped marker. Pencil
marks won't show through new paint. Also,
grease pencils and crayons can prevent paint
from sticking.

Whatever heights
you choose to set
outlets and switches,
be consistent.
Code requires that
no point along a wall
may be more than 6 ft.
from an outlet. Set the
bottom of wall outlets
12 In. to 15 In. above
the finished floor surface-or 18 In. above the
finished floor surface to
satisfy Americans
with Disabilities Act
(ADA) requirements.
Place the top of
switch boxes at
48 In., and they will
line up with drywall
seams (If sheets run
horizontally), thus
reducing the drywall
cuts you must make.
In kitchens and
bathrooms, place the
bottom of countertop
receptacles 42 in.
above the finished floor
surface. This height
ensures that each receptacle will clear the
combined height of a
standard countertop (36
in.) and the height of a
backsplash (4 In.),
with 2 In. extra to accommodate cover plates.

LAYING OUT THE JOB 1 185

INSTALLING WALL BOXES

O.

nee you've established the heights

able boxes, simply screw them to a stud

of the switch and outlet boxes, install-

To raise or lower the box depth, turn the

to it.) The more securely a box is supported,

ing them is pretty straightforward . Local

adjusting screw. Side -nailing boxes typically

the more secure the electrical connections

electrical codes will dictate box capacity and

have scales (gradated depth gauges) on the

will be.

composition.

side

SM

O. If not, use a scrap of finish materia l

(such as liz-in. drywall) as a depth gauge.

~ For more on box capacity and

composition requirements.

is required to mount it and to attach boxes

p. 25.

Metal boxes frequently have brackets that

mount the box flush to a stud edge

In residences, 18-cu.-in. single-gang poly-

0;

after the box is wired, add a mud ring

vinyl chloride (PVC) plastic boxes are by far

(plaster ring) to bring the box flush to the

the most commonly used. This size is large

finish surface .

enough for a single out let or a single switch

Multiple-gang boxes mount to studs in the

and two cab les. Otherwise. use a 22.S-cu.-in.

same way. But if plans offset the box away

single-gang box or a four-square box with a

from studs or a multigang box is particularly

nail them because screws

plaster ring.

wide, nail blocking between the studs or

allow them to reposition

boxes easily.

Set each box to the correct height, then

install an adjustable box bracket and screw

set its depth so that the box edge will be

the box to it O. (The bracket is also ca lled

flush to the finish surface. If you use adjust-

a screw gun bracket, because a screw gun

186 1 INSTALLING WALL BOXES

OU

INSTALLING CEILING BOXES

axes for ceiling lights are most often

4-in. octagonal or round boxes or inte-

In most cases, you'll need to reposition the

box to avoid obstacles or line it up to other

the blocking

O. Remember: The box edge

must be flush to finish surfaces.

gral recessed light cans. Setting ceiling boxes

fixtures, but it's quick work if the box has an

To install a 4-in. box between joists, first

in new work is similar to setting wall boxes,

adjustable bar hanger. To install a recessed

screw an adjustable hanger bar to the joists

0 , then attach the box to it O. Alternately,

with the added concern that the ceiling box

can, for example, extend its two bar hangers

be strong enough to support the fixture

to adjacent ceiling joists. Then screw or nail

you can insert 2x blocking between the

weight . Many electricians prefer to use metal

the hangers to the joists O. Slide the can

joists and sc rew the box to it

boxes for ceiling fixtures anyway. Ceiling fans

along the hangers unti l its opening (the light

require fan -rated boxes.

well) is where you want it and then tighten

As noted earlier, you can mark cei ling

box locations on the floor and use a laser to
plumb up-or simply measure out from a wa ll.

~ For more on layln9 out. see p. 184.

the setscrews on the side

O.

O.

~ For a detailed look at Installln9 hanger

bars. see photo 2 on p. 85.

To install a 4-in. box, simply nail or screw

it to the side of a joist. If you need to install
it slightly away from a joist, first nai l 2x
blocking to the joist. then attach the box to

INSTALLING CEILING BOXES

I 187

DRILLING FOR CABLE

nee boxes are in place, you're ready to run cable to

each of them. It's rather like connect ing dots with

a pencil line. To prevent screws or nails from puncturing

cables, dri ll in the middle of studs or joists whenever possible. If the hotes you drill are less than 11/4 in. from the edge
of framing members, you must install steel nail-protection
plates. Always wear eye protection when dri lling.

Drill for cables running horizontally (through studs)

first. It doesn't matter whether you start drilling at the
outlet box closest to the panel or at the last outlet on the
circuit. Just be methodical: Drill holes in one direction as
you go from box to box. However, if you're drilling for an
appliance that has a dedicated circuit- and thus only one
outlet-it's usually less work to drill a hole through a top or
bottom plate and then run cable through the attic or basement instead of drilling through numerous studs to reach
the outlet.
If possible, drill holes thigh high O . Partially rest the drill
on your thigh so your arms won't get as tired. This method
also helps you drill holes that are roughly the same heightmaking cable-pulling much easier. Moreover, when you drill
about 1 f1. above a box, you have enough room to bend the
cable and stap le it near the box without crimping the cable
and damaging its insulation.
For most drilling, use a 6-in., 3/ 4 -in.-diameter bit. Use an
l8-in. bit to drill lumber nailed together around windows,
doorways, and the like

O. Using an l8-in . bit is also safer

because it enables you to drill through top plates without

standing on a ladder. Bits that bind suddenly can throw
you off a ladder O.

w.w

TRADE SECRET

, II 1

Drilled holes don't need to be perfectly

aligned, but the closer they line up, the
easier it is to pull cable. Some electricians
use a laser to line up drill holes.

188 1 DRILLING FOR CABLE

PULLING CABLE

or greatest efficiency, install cable in

two steps: (1) Pull cable between outlets,

leaving roughly 1 ft. extra beyond each box

for future splices and (2) then retrace your

steps, stapling cable to framing and installing nail-protection plates. As with drilling,

it doesn't matter whether you start pulling

cable from the first box of a Circuit or from
the last box . Jf there are several circuits in
a room, start at one end and proceed along
each circuit. pulling cable unti l all the boxes
are wired. Don't jump around: you may become confused and miss a box.
In new construction, electricians usually
place several wire reels by the panel and

pull cables from there toward the first box

of each circuit

O. Once they've run

cable

to all these boxes, they move a reel next to

each box and continue to pull cable outward
until they reach the last (farthest) box

O.

When doing remodel wiring in a house with

a crawl space, however, electricians often
start at the last box and pull cables toward
the panel. When they reach the first boxes
of several circuits, they will move the wire
reels to those locations. From there, they
feed, say, three cab les down to a helper in
the crawl space . The helper can pull all the
cab les toward the panel at the same time.
This method is much faster than pulling
single cables three different times.
Staple cable along stud centers to prevent
nail or screw punctures . It's acceptable to
stack two cables under one staple 0 , but
use standoffs 0 to fasten three or more
cab les traveling along the same path. (Multi gang boxes are fed by multiple cables,
for example.) Standoffs and ties bundle
cab les loosely to prevent heat buildup. As
you secure cable, install nail plates where
needed

O.

on the first box in each

circuit to ensure that you
run cable from it to the
panel. On a complex job with
many circuits, you might
run cable between all the
outlets in a circuit but
forget to install the home
run cable that will energize
the circuit. Not something
you want to discover after
the drywall'S up.

PULLING CABLE 1 189

FEEDING CABLE THROUGH CORNERS

orners are usuaUy bui lt by nailing

Then wrap tape around the end of the

secting holes at the same height, as shown

cable and onto the wire to create a tapering

point that will slide easier through the hole.

in photos 0 and

Push wire through the corner holes until

three or four studs together. so feeding

cable through them can be tricky. Drill inter-

O. Use diagonal cutters to

cut through the sheathing and two of the

wires. thus leaving a single wire protruding
from the cable

190

O.

I fEEDING CABLE THROUGH CORNERS

Use pliers to loop the end of the wire.

it emerges from the other side O. If the

wire gets hung up midway through. insert a
finger from the other side to fish for its end.

FISHING CABLE BEHIND FINISH WALLS

ost electricians hate fishing wire

RUNNING CABLE TO A NEW OUTLET

behind existing walls. It can be tricky to

find the cable and time consuming to patch

Top plate
New cable

the holes in plaster or drywall. If you're add-

1
~l - ~ IIIII!

ing a box or two, try fishing cable behind the

~- ~

wall. But if you 're rewiring an entire room, it's

probably faster to cut a "wiring trench" in the
wall. Before cutting into or drilling through a
wall, however, turn off power to the area.

~ For more on cuttln" a wlrln., trench.

see Po 196.
I

If you're adding an outlet over an

unfinished basement. fishing cab le can be
straightforward . Outline and cut out an

r:-~----- :::----

Exlstlnq
receptacle

opening for the new box, insert a flexibit

Cut back drywall
to middle of studs

into the opening, then drill down through

the wall's bottom plate

O. When

the bit

emerges into the basement, a helper can

insert one wire of the new cable into the

New switch box

New ceiling box

Fishing cable to a
new outlet can be
time consuming and
tedious . Often, it 's
quicker and easier
to cut back sec
tions of drywall to
the nearest studs or
ceiling joists. With
a stud bay exposed,
you can pull wire In
a hurry and staple
cable to studs.

small "fish hole" near the bit's point. As you

slowly back the bit out of the box opening,
you pull new cable into it

O. No fish tape

required! The only downside is that the

r eversing drill can tw ist the cable. This
problem is eas ily avoided by sliding a swivel
kell um over the cab le end instead of inserting a cab le wire into the flexibit hole

O.

Because th e kellum turns, the cable doesn't.

Alternatively, you can start by removing a
wall box. The closest power source is often
an existing outlet. Cut power to that outlet
and test to make sure it's off. The easiest
way to access the cable is to disconnect the

0 and remove it.

0 , which may require

wires to the receptacle

Then remove the box

us ing a metal -cutting reciprocating-saw

blade to cut through the nai ls holding the
box to the stud. Fish a new cable leg to the
location and insert the new and old cables
into a new cut-in box. Secure the cut-in box
to the finish surface, splice the cables inside
the box, and connect pigtails from the splice
to the new receptacle.

FISHING CABLE BEHIND FINISH WALLS

I 191

FISHING CABLE BEHIND

FINISH WALLS (CONTINUED)

FISHING CABLE TO
A CEILING FIXTURE

ishing cable to ceiling

it in the drilled hole; friction will

fixtures or wall switches

keep the wire upright in the hole

is usually a bit complicated.

until you can locate it in the attic.

If there's no access above the

If there is an unfinished attic

above or a basement below,
run the cable across it. then

ceiling and/or cable must cross

several ce iling joists to get from

route the cable through a stud

a switch to a light fixture, you'll

bay to the new box. To run cab le

have to cut into finish surfaces

to a cei ling light. for example,

drill up through the fixture loca-

at several points O. To access

tion using a lis-in. by 12-in. bit to

cutout to expose the top plate.

Using a flex ibit may minimize

minimize patching later O. Use a

bit at least 6 in. long so a helper

Remove the old outlet box, fish new cable, and splice
the old cable to the new. You'll replace the old box.

192 1 FISHING CABLE TO A CEILING FIXTURE

cable in a stud bay, you'll need a

the number of holes you must

in the attic can see it-longer if

cut to drill across ceiling joists.

the floor of the attic is covered

But as noted earlier, it may

with inSUlation. Measure the

distance from the bit to the wall;

ultimately take less time to cut

and repair a single slot run-

a helper in the attic can use that

ning across several joists than

measurement to locate the near-

to patch a number of isolated

est stud bay to drill an access

hole into. If you're working alone,

holes. Whatever method you

choose, make cuts cleanly to

loop the end of a stiff piece of

facilitate repairs. First outline all

cuts with a utility knife.

wire about 1 ft. long

and insert

If you're working alone. jam a lonQ, looped wire into the exploratory hole, then go aloft to look for it.

FISHING CABLE ACROSS CEILING .JOISTS

New opening ------tL-~T-

for ceiling box

/r7"''------..,.,~'''-----__,,>7=---

Drill across
ceilinq joists

Sometimes there is no open bay

~~ft::=~:;~;;;;;- cutout
Drywall
=
at
top plate

to a ceiling fixture location. In

that case, you'll have drill across

ceiling joists to run cable to the

top plate of the wall. Use a 6-'t.long flexibit (and a 48-in. extension, if needed) to drill across
joists. Flexibits can wander and

go off target, so be patient. When

r'IIk>----Hl--

the drill bit emerges above the

Cutout for
switch box

top plate, attach a swivel kellum

taped securely to the new cable.

Then slowly back the drill bit out,

It-- Ht-- - Cable f rom

existing outlet
supplies power

pulling the cable to the opening

you cut In the ceiling .

FISHING CABLE TO A CEILING FIXTURE 1 193

CUTTING A WALL BOX INTO PLASTER

f wiring is in good condition and an existing circuit has the

Use a utility knife to score along the outline to minimize plaster

capacity to add an outlet, turn off the power, cut a hole in the wall,
fish cable to the location, and secure a cut-in box to the finish sur-

fractures . Remove the plaster within the outline using a chisel.

Then cut out the lath, using a cordless jigsaw O. As you cut through

face. This process is called cutting-in or retrofitting a box.

Hold the new box at the same height as other outlet or switch

the lath strip, alternate partial cuts from one side to the other
to avoid cracking the plaster. Then carefully remove the plaster

boxes and trace its outline onto the wall. Use a stud finder or drill a

beneath the box ears, so they can rest on lath. Before inserting cut-

small exploratory hole to locate studs or wood lath behind. If you hit

in boxes, remove box knockouts, insert cab le clamps, strip sheathing

a stud, move the box. If you hit lath, keep drilling small holes within

off the ends of incoming cable, and feed cable into the cable clamps.

the opening to find the edges of the lath. If you position the box correctly, you'll need to remove only one lath section

Jf more than one cable enters the box, write the destination of each

on the sheathing. Secure the box by screwing its ears to the lath O.

O.

CUTTING A WALL BOX INTO DRYWALL

dding a cut-in box to drywall is essentially the same as adding

one to plaster. Start by drilling a small exploratory hole near the

proposed box location to make sure there's no stud in the way.

There are a number of cut-in boxes to choose from; most common
is a type with side-mounted ears that swing out or expand as you
turn its screws .
~ For more on box types, see p. 25.

Hold the box against the drywall. plumb one side, then trace the
outline of the box onto the wall

O. Drywall is much easier to cut than

is plaster: Simply align the blade of a drywall saw to the line you want
to cut and hit the handle of the saw with the heel of your hand.
There is no one right way to cut out the box, but pros tend to
cut one of the long vertical sides, then make three horizontal cuts
across. Then score and snap the last cut
the drywall saw and a utility knife.

O. Finish the cutout

194 1 CUTTING A WALL BOX INTO DRYWALL

with

RETROFITTING A CEILING BOX

s with all ret rofits, turn off

power to the area and explore

first. Follow the mounting recommendations for your fixture. Attach

the fixture box to framing.
If there's insulation in an attic
above, remove it from the affected
area. Be sure to wear eye protection and a dust mask when drilling
through any ceiling-it's a dusty job.
Mark the box location and use a
fine-tooth hole saw to cut through
plaster or drywall O. Place the
centering bit of the hole saw on the
exact center of the box opening .
Drill slowly so you don't damage

adjoining surfaces-or fall off the

ladder.
If the ceiling is drywall, you're
ready to run cable through the hole
in the ceiling . If the ceiling is pIaster, cut through the lath or leave
the lath intact and screw a pancake
box through the lath and into the
framing. Before attaching a pancake box, remove a knockout, testfit the box in the hole, and trace the
knockout hole onto the lath. Set
the box aside, and drill through the
lath, creating a hole through which
you can run cable

O.

Feed cable to the location and

fit a cable connector into the box.
Insert the cable into the connector, slide the box up to the cei ling

0, and secure it O. Strip the cable

sheathing and attach the ground
wire to a ground screw in the box.
Strip inSUlation from the wire ends
and you're ready to connect the
light fixture.

RETROFITTING A CEILING BOX 1 195

CREATING A WIRING TRENCH

hen adding multip le outlets or rewiring

facilitate repairs. If there's plaster, make the

an entire room, cutting a wiring trench

trench as wide as two strips of lath. Snap

the walls, use an inductance tester to make

in finish surfaces instead of fishing cable

parallel chalklines to indicate the width of

sure they 're not hot

behind them is much faster. Before cutting

the trench

the studs so you can run cable in the trench.

or drilling. however. turn off the power to

O. Then use a utility knife to

score along each line O. Scoring lines first

the areas affected. And be sure to wear eye

produces a cleaner cut and easier repairs.

expand the trench width to accommodate

protection and a dust mask.

If there are no windows in the walls to be

Next use a reciprocating saw with a demo '

lition blade to cut through the plaster or

drywall section. If you expose any cables in

O. Next, drill through

Wherever there's an outlet indicated,

the boxes.
Finally, walk along the trench and pull

rewired, cut the trench about 3 ft. above

drywall. Hold the saw at a low angle: You'll

any lath or drywall nails still sticking in stud

the floor so you won't have to kneel while

be less likely to break blades or cut into

edges

working. If there are windows, cut the

studs O. Using a hammer, gently crush the

they're small; if you pull them now, patching

trench under the windows, leaving at least

plaster between the lines O. Use a utility

the trench will go smoothly.

1 in. of wall material under the windowsill to

bar (flat bar) to pry out the lath strips or

196 1 CREATING A WIRING TRENCH

O. They're easy to overlook because

RETROFITTING BOXES & PULLING CABLE

nee you've cut a wiring trench

and dri lled the holes, install-

ing the boxes and pulling cable are

straightforward and much like the
basic sequences shown in Chapter 2.
~ For more on Installlnq boxes,

see p. 27.
~ For more on pulllnq cables,
see p. 189.
Most electrical codes allow you

to insta l! either plastic or metal

boxes in residences, but you must

use meta l boxes in commercial

buildings.

For metal boxes, start by removing

knockouts and then Insert a connector.

If you're installing metal boxes,

remove knockouts and insert cable

connectors into their openings

O.

Then screw boxes to studs; screw-

ing is less likely to damage nearby

finish surfaces

O. Be sure that the

box will be flush to finish surfaces

or, if you'll install plaster rings
later, flush to the stud edge.
Whenever you install boxes side
by side-as with the outlet and
low-voltage boxes shown hereinstal l them plumb and at the
same height

O.

Installing cable in remodels can

Run cable to each box.

be tricky because space is tight

and you must avoid bending cable
sharply, which can damage wire
insulation

O. Install nail plates

wherever the cable is less than

1114 in. from the stud edges. Feed
cable through the cable connectors
into the boxes

O . Finally,

staple

the cable to the framing within

12 in. of each box. If there's not
room to loop the cable and staple
it to a stud, it's acceptable to
staple it to other solid framing,
such as the underside of a sill

O.

RETROFITTING BOXES & PULLING CABLE 1 197

MAKING UP AN OUTLET BOX

A crimp tool may be used instead of a

wire nut for the ground.

If there will be two receptacles In a box,

make up two sets of pigtails.

lectricians call the last stage of rough wiring making up a box.

If you go the latter route, leave only one ground wire sticking out
of the crimp, which you'll wrap around the ground screw O .
Next, use a wire stripper to remove 1/2 in. of insulation from the

Here. you'll remove sheathing from cables inside the boxes,

group like wires, splice grounds, and-if the box is metal-attach
ground wires to a ground screw. At this point, many electricians

wire ends. Use wire connectors to splice all neutral wires together

simply splice all wire groups because it will save time later.

and all hot wires together O. As we recommended earlier, splice a

First use a cab le ripper

to remove the cable sheathing .

short pigtail to each wire group as well. Attaching neutral and hot

Leave a minimum of '/4 in. of sheathing inside the box and a maximum of 1 in. Electricians favor utllity knives to remove sheathing,

pigtails to the receptacle screw terminals ensures continuity power

even if a receptacle fails. If the box will contain two receptacles,

but nonpros are less likely to nick wire insulation with a ripper.

create two groups of pigtails

Once you've removed the sheathing, separate the insulated wires

O.

Accordion-fold the wire groups into the box and you're ready for
inspection. If necessary, install a mud ring to brin g the box open-

and bare ground wires .

There are several ways to splice grounds. You can use a twist-

ing flush to finish surfaces. The mud ring shou ld be installed before

on wire connector (Wire-Nut is one brand) and run a pigtail to the

you've repaired the plaster or drywall

ground screw. Or you can twist the bare wires and crimp them

198 1 MAKING UP AN OUTLET BOX

O.

O.

MAKING UP A LIGHT CAN

sheathing before feeding cable into the

ing up an outlet box, although light cans

the small section of sheathing sticking

frequently have stranded wire leads. Always

follow the installation instructions supplied

into the box. Then strip insulation from

iring a recessed light can or a cei ling

box is essentially the same as mak-

with your lighting unit.

Run cable to the light can, stapling it at

box

O. Tighten the cable connector to

individual wires O.
Group ground wires, neutral wires, and hot
wires. Then splice each group using wire con-

least every 4 112 ft. to the side of the ceil-

nectors. When wiring light cans, electricians

ing joist and within 12 in. of the box. Also,

typically start by splicing ground wires and

make sure that the cable is at least 1114 in.

from the joist edge, so drywall screws or

running a ground pigtail to a ground screw

on a metal box O. They then spl ice the neu-

nails can't puncture it. Because you 'll be

tra l wires and, finally, the hot wires. When all

working over your head and junction boxes

wire groups are spl iced, fold them carefully

are cramped, you may want to remove the

into the junction box and attach the cover.

Ift:~~

, II '

TRADE SECRET

The ground screw must compress

the ground wire evenly. Never
cross the ground wire over itself
because the screw would touch only
that hiqh spot.

MAKING UP A LIGHT CAN

I 199

MAKING UP A SINGLE SWITCH BOX

witch boxes are most commonly plastic,

If there's a single cable entering the

so begin by using a screwdri ver or nee-

switch box, the switch is at the end of a

ing

together before splicing them with a wire

cable (or cables) into the knockout and staple

switch leg and both insulated wires are hot

wires. Remove the cable sheathing, strip

connector

it within 12 in. of the box. There's no need to

insulation from the insulated wires, and

of the neutral wires and splice them

dle-nose pliers to remove its knockouts. Feed

use cable connectors-plastic boxes have an

wrap a piece of black electrical tape around

integral spring clamp inside the knockout

the white wire to indicate that it is hot. Then

to prevent the cable from being yanked out.

tuck the wires into the box.

Leave about 1 ft. of extra cable sticking out

of the box.

200

I MAKING UP A SINGLE SWITCH BOX

If there are two cables entering the switch

box, one is incoming power and the other

is a switch leg. Remove the cable sheath-

0 , then separate and twist the grounds

O. Strip insulation from the ends

O. Fold
the wires into the box O.

MAKING UP A MULTIGANG SWITCH BOX

he tricky part of making up a multigang

switch box is keeping track of the wires.

As you feed each cable into the box, use a

felt-tipped marker to id entify each cable's
origin or destination. Write directly on the
cable sheathing. Start by feeding the incoming cable into the box and marking it hot.
This incoming cable will supply 110v from a
panel or from an outlet upstream when the
cable is connected later.
Next, nai l a standoff to the side of the
stud so you can secure each switch-leg
cab le as you feed it into the box

O. Before

in serting a cable into a knockout. however,

note which fixture or device the switch leg
controls
as

O. Be specific and use la bels such

sconce, can ctr (center can), and perim

(perimeter fixture).
As you pull each cable into the box, st r ip
the sheathing and cut off the small section
that has writing on it O. When all the cables
have been stripped, separate and twist the
bare ground wires clockwise. Leave one
ground about 6 in. longer than the others,
then feed it through the hole in the end of
a special ground wire connector O. This
longer ground wire will run to a ground
screw on each switch.
Strip the insu lation from the ends of the
neutral wires; then use a wire connector to
splice them together

O. Fold both ground-

and neutral-wire groups into the box.

Cut a hot-wire pigtail 8 in. to 9 in. long for
each switch and splice all pigtails to the hot
wire of the incoming cable-the one that was
earlier marked 110v O . Finally, pair a hot
pigtail with each sw itch leg

O. Fold the wire

pairs into the box. When it's time to wire the

switches later, you' ll connect a hot pigtail to
one screw terminal and a switch-leg wire to
the other screw terminal.
If a cable serves a three-way or fourway switch, indicate whether a wire is a
"traveler" or "common."

~ For more on three- and four-way switches.

see "Receptacles and Switches," p. 38.

MAK I NG UP A MULTIGANG SWITCH BOX

I 201

FLEXIBLE METAL CABLE

CABLE CONNECTORS
Quick lock
for MC

Snap-Tite
for MC

locknut
connector
for AC

CABLE, CONDUIT,
& MOISTURE
Moisture can short out electrical
connections or, over time, degrade
conductors and connectors. Thus it's
important to use materials in
appropriate locations.

n residences, Me and AC cable is most

metal cable should also be secured to the

often used in short exposed runs-typi-

underside of every joist it crosses or run

cally between a wall box and the junction

through holes drilled through joists. Again,

box of an appliance. The cable's metal jacket

use nail -protection plates if the cable is less

protects the wiring inside, but you should

than 11/4 in. from a joist edge.

AC and MC cab le require specialized con-

still take pains to avoid puncturing Me or AC

cable with a nail or a screw. For this reason,

when flexible metal cable is run through stud

walls, it's a good practice to run it through
the center of the stud

O . If several cables

run through a stud, stack holes vertically

nectors to secure them to boxes . You can

use a hacksaw with a metal-cutting blade or
diagona l cutters to cut through cable's metal jacket

0 , but a Rota-Split is the tool of

choice. Whatever tool you use, cut through

to avoid compromising the strength of the

only one coil of the metal jacket to sever

stud . Use nail-protection plates if the cable is

it. To prevent damaging the wire inSUlation

closer than Jli4 in. to a stud edge.

~ For more on nail -protection plates.
see p. 189.

within, cut no deeper than the thickness of

the metal jacket. After cutting through the
metal jacket. insert plastic antishort bush -

Nonmetallic (NM) sheathed

cab le (one brand is Romex):
Dry locations only.

Metal-clad (MC) or armored cable

(AC) : Dry locations; can be used
in wet locations only if specifically
listed for that use.
Underground-feeder (UF) cable:
Can be buried; when used in
interiors, same rules as for
NM cable.
Electrical metallic tubing (EMT):
Wet or dry locations; okay in wet
locations if fittings (couplings and
connectors) are listed for use in
wet locations; may be in direct
contact with earth, if suitable
and approved by local code.
Rigid metal conduit (RMC): Same
rules as for EMT; may be buried in
earth or embedded in concrete.

ings to protect the wire insulation from the

Secure or support flexible metal cable
within 12 in. of boxes 0 and at least every
41fz ft. along the span of the run-electri-

cians typically staple it every 3 f1. Flexible

202 1 fLEXIBLE METAL CABLE

sharp edges of the metal jacket.

PVC plastic conduit (schedule40 PVC): Can be exposed or

buried underground; fittings are
inherently raintight. so can be
installed outdoors, in damp
crawl spaces, and so on.

INSTALLING AC CABLE

o install AC cable, start by

marking the box heights onto

the studs and installing the metal

boxes flush to finish surfaces or
flush to the stud edges. Remove
the box knockouts you'll need. Then
drill the studs and run the AC cable
through each hole. Staple it every
41/2 ft. along the run and within
12 in. of each box.
Use a Rota-Split to cut through

a single coil of the cable 's metal

jacket. then slide off the severed
jacket section to expose the wires
inside. Use diagonal cutters to snip

off the kraft paper covering the

wires

O. Slide a plastic antishort

bushing between the wires and

the metal jacket

O. Next. wrap the

silver bonding wire around the outside of the jacket

O. Wrapping this

wire bonds the jacket and creates a

continuous ground path.
Slide a setscrew connector over
the end of the AC cable and tighten
the setscrew to the meta ! jacket

O.

The screw compresses the cable

jacket and the bonding wire, holding them fast and ensuring a continuous ground. Insert the threaded
end of the connector into a box
knockout. Then tighten the locknut
that secures the connector

O.

Attach a mud ring to the box to

bring it flush to finish surfaces,
which will be installed later, and
fold the wires into the box

O.

INSTALLING AC CABLE

I 203

WORKING WITH EMT STEEL CONDUIT

To steady the pipe as you cut it. brace It

1with
your legs.

metal conduit. Do not

use the tubing cutters
often used to cut plumbing pipe because they
create a razor-sharp
burr inside the conduit
that is almost impossible
to remove with a
reaming tool.

ecause EMT conduit is easy to work

pull wires) and sweeps (single-piece elbows

with , it's the rigid conduit type most

with

common ly in stalled in residences. Th e main

difference between conduit and flexible metal

a wid e turning radius). Or you can rent

a cond uit bender to change pipe direction.

By Code, EMT conduit must be strapped

in side. Fortunately, pulling wire into conduit

within 3 f1. of every junction box and at least

10 ft. alo ng runs . In actual practice, electri-

is a straightforward ope rat ion .

cians strap pipe run s every 6 f1. to 8 ft. to

cable is that conduit comes without wire

Assembling conduit is also straig ht-

forward . After cutting conduit pipe to length

sq uare. EMT pipe typically comes in lO-ft.

lengths O. Afte r cu tt ing th e pipe, use a
reaming tool to remove the burrs inside
and out O.
To join EMT pipe, insert pipe ends into
setscrew couplings O. To secure pipe
to a box, use a connecto r on the box

prevent sagging .

knocko ut O. In general, plumb vertical

Work from a layout sketch that indicates

the power source , structural members,

conduit sections before st rapping them into

and debur ring, insert the pipe ends into

setscrew couplings and tighten the screws

obstructions, existing outlets , and the loca-

place O. On the othe r hand, you may want

pipe to follow an angled architectural ele ment suc h as a brace.

to secure the pipes. Threaded male fittings

tions of new outlets. Mount at! the outlet

co nn ect the pipe to boxes and Condulets@-

boxes at the same height, and pl umb each

covered fittings that facilitate wire-pulling

one . Plumbing boxes ens ures that pipe con-

or enable changes in pipe direction. You can

buy prebent fittings such as capped-elbows

nectors will line up with cond uit pipes.

Use a hacksaw with a metal -cutting blade

(two-piece elbows that you can access to

to cut EMT pipe; cuts need not be perfectly

WORKING WITH EMT STEEL CONDUIT

I 205

MAKING TURNS WITH METAL CONDUIT

o change directions in a metal conduit

system, you can either bend the pipe or

install directional fittings such as offset adaptors, elbows, or Condulets. EMT pipe is rigid, but
its walls are thin enough to bend easily with a
conduit bender.
Pros bend conduit whenever possible. Bending pipe reduces the number of speCialty fittings
to buy and enables pipe to follow the contours
of surfaces and structural elements. It's not

necessary or desirable for conduit to follow

every last jog or bulge in a wall; the simpler you

Pull and simultaneously step on

one side of the bender.

Conduit benders can also create

multiple offset anqles.

can make an installation, the better it will look

and the faster it will progress.
To bend pipe, use a fe lt-tipped marker to
mark the beginning of the bend on the pipe.
Slide the pipe into the bender

O. Gently step

on one side of the bender and simultaneously

pull on the lever bar

O. The raised

marks on

the outer curve of the bender indicate the

angle you're creating in the pipe-typically,
15,22 1/2,30,45, or 60 degrees.
After bending the conduit-but before cutting it to final length-test-fit the piece to see if
it lines up with the connector on the box

or

to a coupling that joins two pipe sections. With

practice, you can also offset pipe

O. Offsetting

creates two bends in opposite directions so a

length of conduit can move from one plane
to another.
There are a couple of rules to keep in mind
as you bend conduit. First, there's a min imum
requirement bend-radius for conduit: lOx the
diameter. For 1/2-in.-diameter conduit. for
example, the minimum bend radius is 5 in.
Second , each turn makes it harder to pull

USING DIRECTIONAL FITTINGS

You can also use directional fittings
to make turns. A T-condulet enables
you to run wires in different directions and doubles as a pulling point
when fishing wire. To attach pipe
to a condulet, first screw a locknut
onto the threaded shaft of a male

adaptor. Turn the adaptor most

of the way into the Condutet hub
and turn the locknut clockwise
until it seats against the hub.
BacHightening the locknut in
this manner ensures grounding
continu ity.

Use a T-condulet as a pufflnq point

for fishinq wlres_ Here, wires from
the source diverqe in two directions.

To attach pipe to a condulet, use an

adapter and back-tiqhten the locknut
until it lodqes aqainst the hub.

wire. So between each pair of boxes, you can

have no more than 360 degrees of bends. In
practice, every fourth turn should be a pulling
point in which you can access and pull wire-in
other words, the fourth turn should be a pulling elbow, a condulet. or a junction box. There
is not enough room to splice wires in a pulling
elbow or in a condulet. Splice wires only in a
junction or outlet box.

206 1 MAKING TURNS WITH METAL CONDUIT

FISHING CABLE & CONDUIT

au can start fishing wire from either

TAPPING INTO AN EXISTING OUTLET

end of the circuit. If you're tapping

into an existing outlet. it makes sense to

fish from that outlet-after first turning

off the power to the outlet and testing to

Tapping into an existing outlet is often a convenient way to supply power to a

conduit extension. Remove the cover plate from the outlet, detach wires from the old
receptacle, then use lineman's pliers to straighten the old wires so they'll be easier
to splice to wires running to the new outlets .

make sure it's off.

In the installation shown here, a foursquare extension box was mounted over
an existing (recessed) box. Thus new

Incoming
cable
(from power
source) ------,

Wire
connector

box

wires can be pulled into the extension

box and spliced to an existing cable to
provide power for the circuit extension
being added .

The fish tape can be fed easily into the

conduit pipe

O. At the other end of the

O . To

conduit, tape wires to the fish tape

make wire pulling easier, leave the wire

ends straight-do not bend them over the
tape, but stagger them slightly so the
bundled wires taper slightly. Wrap
electrical tape tightly around the wire
bundle so that wires stay together and

Threaded
male adaptor ---1--"1
(pipe
connector)

4 - -''--

Outgoing wires
(to receptacles
downstream)

won't snag as they're pulled . The pulling

will also go easie r if you pull stranded
wire rather than solid wire, which is
stiffer and less flexible.
Finally, use a wire caddy

0 , even if

you have to build one out of scrap pipe

and lumber. Using wire spools on a caddy
helps minimize tang les .

F I SHING CABLE & CONDUIT

I 207

PREPPING RECEPTACLES FOR SURFACE METAL BOXES

o save time, professionals often divide

0 so they fit inside such covers.

To speed the assembly, precut all the

off the ears

machine screws (and nuts) that screw into

pigtails that you'll attach to receptacles. To

single short screw for the center hole in the

can be done with a single tool. Your conduit

loop pigtail ends, strip 1/2 in. of insulation,

front of the receptacle

system may have slightly different materi-

insert the stripped ends into the little hole

als, but these prep techniques should save

on the stripper jaw, and twist your wrist.

receptac le wiring of a conduit system

into several smaller tasks, each of which

you time.
Standard duplex receptacles come with

Use a screw gun to attach the looped

ends to the receptacle screw terminals

the mounting tabs at top and bottom, and a

O.

Finally, screw a ground pigtail to the

box

O. The threaded

hole for the ground

screw is raised slightly to facilitate surface

O.

mounting. If you surface-mounted a box on

plaster ears intended to seat against plaster

Remember to loop the pigtail ends clockwise

Of drywall surfaces. Consequently, the ears

so that when the screw tightens (clockwise),

detail, the ground screw would hit concrete

may not fit into metal boxes or behind the

the loop stays on the screw.

before it tightened all the way down-thus

industrial raised covers often installed in

Next, attach the prewired receptacles

to the covers. Typically, there is a pair of

jeopardizing grounding continuity.

conduit systems. Use diagonal cutters to snip

20a l

PREPPING RECEPTACLES fOR SURfACE METAL BOXES

a concrete wall and the box didn't have this

WIRING OUTLETS
GROUNDING CABLE
& CONDUIT SYSTEMS
Eve ry newly installed circui t must have continu ous
grounding. Steel conduit ac t s as it s own ground
path. MC ca ble contains an insula ted ground because its metal jacket does not se r ve as a ground
path; it exists sol el y to protect the wires inside.
AC cable's met al jacket, on the other hand, does
se rve as a ground path. To ensure a co ntinuous
ground in AC cable runs, wrap and secu re the
cable's thin silve r bonding wi re.
If Code requ ires steel condu it, AC or MC, yo u
must use steel boxes. Steel boxes must be grounded
as well. In addition t o t ighte ning the cable or
condu it couplings to the box knoc kouts, screw a
grounding pigtail int o the threaded hole in the box.
The box pigt ai l is then spliced to circuit grounds
and pigtails that run to the device.
Alternat ively. if you're usi ng so lid wire. you ca n
use a grounding clip to ground a metal box. (Code
prohibits using a grounding cli p with stranded
wi re.) If the incomi ng ground wi re is insulated, strip
approxi mately 6 in. of the insula t ion and slide the
grou nd ing clip onto a sec tion of ba re wire. Th is wi ll
allow enough wi re beyond the clip so you ca n splice
t he bare wi r e end t o other ground s or att ac h it
direct ly t o the groun di ng sc rew on a device.

f yo u've al ready att ac hed pig tails to

condu it ser ves as the groun d, there

the receptacle sc rew terminals, the

will be no circuit ground wire.

connections at out let boxes on a con-

When splici ng stranded wi re to soli d

duit system will go quick ly_ Note: In the

wi re, strip the st r anded wire slightly

project shown here. the red wi re is the

longer th an the solid wi r e, so the

hot conductor, the white wire is neu-

stranded-wi re end sticks out beyond

tral. and green is the ground conduct or.

th e solid wi r e. By doi ng th is, you force

Code req uires that green or bare wires

the st randed-w ire end into th e wire

are always th e designated ground.

connector first, ensur ing a soli d con-

Use wire st rippe r s t o strip 1/2 in.

nec t ion. Use line man's pliers t o t wis t

of insul ati o n from th e wires pulled

wires slig htty before sc rewing on the

throu gh the co ndu it O . Splice the

connector.

rece ptacle pigt ails to lik e-co lored

Once you've spli ced all wire groups,

circuit wires pulled through the con-

fold the wires into th e box

duit. Typically, electricia ns splice the

attach th e cover. Hold th e cover t ig ht

and

ground wires first. which mean s splic-

against th e box and att ac h it with the

ing three wi res: the rece pt acl e pigtail,

cove r sc r ews

O.

the gro unding pigtail to the box, and

the circuit ground O. It the met al

Uslnq a qround clip to qround a metal box Is suitable

for solid conductors onlv.

WIRING OUTLETS

I Z09

lPPLIANCES
IRING APPLIANCES, LIKE WIRING
qeneral-use circuits, Is primarily

a matter of solidly connectlnq

conductors and followlnq the recommendations of the NEC and the manufacturer.
Many appliances are blq enerqy users, so
It's particularly Important to size circuit
wires and breakers based on appliance
loads. When your new appliances arrive,
read-and save-the owner's manuals that

210

come with them. Owner's manuals contain

essential Information on how to Install the
appliance, how to req l ster the appliance and
comply with Its warranty, how to Identify
and order replacement parts, and other useful Informati on. Increaslnqly, manufactur-

ers offer owner's manuals online, so If your

appliance lacks a manual, download a copy
at once. There's no quarantee that manuals
will stay In print-or online.

A QUICK LOOK AT KITCHEN APPLIANCES

Covered junction boxes

(This is in addition to the fuse or breaker

All electrical connections must take place in

controlling the circuit.) For appliances that

tor, a dishwasher, a garbage disposer, a range

a covered junction box-either an integral box

slide out-such as a dishwasher or a refrig-

inside the appliance or in a covered junction

box secured to a framing member, such as a

erator-the disconnect means is typically a

cord and a receptacle plug. App!iances that

wall stud.

are hard wired, such as drop-in cooktops and

Equipment grounding
All appliances must have an equ ipment-

the junction box where incoming circuit wires

connect to appliance whips. (Whips are flex-

grounding conductor that connects to both

the appliance frame (or housing) and to the

that connect to appliance terminals.)

here's a lot going on in a modern

kitchen. Typically it contains a refrigera-

hood, a slew of small countertop appl iances,

and, in many cases, an electric range, cooktop, or oven.
~ For more on wlrln9 range hoods, see p. 150.

Appliances have different wiring requirements. Smaller ones such as disposers, dishwashers, and range fans require 120v; other
appliances require 240v; and others-such
as electric ranges-require both 120v and
240v. Ranges burners and ovens use 240v,
but a range's timer and clock use 120v.
Let's start with a handful of important
co ncepts.

wall ovens, must have an access panel near

ible cords-metal clad or plastic sheathed-

metal outlet box for the safe discharge of

fault currents.

Dedicated circuits

Accessible disconnect means

Code requires that every fixed appliance

must be served by a separate, dedicated

Appliances typically have an accessible "disconnect means" so you can cut the power.

circuit- a circuit that serves only that appl iance. This includes appliances that must stay
on, such as refrigerators and freezers, as well
as large energy users, such as electric rang-

COMMON ELECTRICAL APPLIANCE REQUIREMENTS

User

Typical Wire Slze*

Fuse or Breaker

Small-appliance circuit
Refrigerator (120V)M

12AWG

20 amps

12AWG

Stand-alone freezer (120v)'"

Dishwashe r (120v)t.I
Disposer (120v)M

12AWG

20 amps
20 amps

Microwave (120v)U
Range (120/240v)M

12AWG

20 amps
20 amps
20 amps

lOAWG

30 amps

Range (120/240v)t.I

BAWG

Range (120/240v)'"

6AWG

40 amps
50 amps

12AWG
12AWG

General utility/workshop
Laundry circuit (washer)O

12AWG
lOAWG

20 amps
20 amps
30 amps

Clothes dryer (120/240v)t.t

Water heater (240v)'"

lOAWG

30 amps

Ba seboa rd heater (120v)'"

12AWG

20 amps
(max. 1,500w on circuit)

Baseboard heater (240v)'"

lOAWG

30 amps
(max . 5,760w on circuit)

Whole-house fan'
Window air-conditioner (240v)'"

12AWG

20 amps

10AWG

20 amps

12AWG

"Ratings given for copper (eU) wiring.

'Requirements vary; check ratin<l on appliance nameplate and follow manufacturer's specifications.
'Requires dedicated circuit.
tMicrowaves are typically rated 15 amps but are installed on 20'amp kitchen circuits.
Requires designated circuit (see p. 219).

212 1 A QUICK LOOK AT KITCHEN APPLIANCES

es, electric water heaters, and clothes dryers

that require heavier wire and higher-rated
breaker (or fuse) protection.
~ For more on dedicated circuits, see p. 165.

TRADE SECRET
Don't use ground-fault
circuit interrupter (GFel)
receptacles with major appliances, such as refrigerators.
The motors of such appliances
have a high inductance load
as they start up, which can
cause a GFCI receptacle to
trip unnecessarily-leaving
you with a refrigerator full of
spoiled food.

 IC.

PREPARING AN UNFINISHED APPLIANCE CORD

here are many different types of appli-

ance cords. Some cords come with a

molded plug and precrimped connectors that

attach to terminals on the appliance. Other
cords have a molded plug but an unfinished
end that you must strip and splice to the
lead wires of an appliance. In most cases, the
splice is housed in an integral junction box
inside an appliance.
The cord seen here is a typical 120v cord
that you might attach to a smaller fixed
appl iance, such as a garbage disposer. It
contains a hot wire, a neutral wire and-in
the center-a sheathed ground wire. Look
closely at the cord and you'll see that its
sheathing has a ribbed sid e and a smooth
side. The ribbed side contains a neutral wire
that must be spliced to the neutral wire of
the appliance; the smooth side contains a
hot wire

O.

Start by snipping and separating the three

stranded wires within the cord

O. Using

a uti lity knife, carefully slice and peel back

the cord's outer (gray) insulation from the
middle wire. As you do so, you'll expose
the ground wire's green insulation. Only
the ground wi r e has this additional layer
of insulation

O. Next use a wire stripper to

remove 11z in. of insulation from the ends of

all three cord wires

O. Now you're r eady to

splice those wires to the lead wires on

the appliance .

Peel back the gray inSUlation to

3 expose
the ground wire.

WHIP IT!
For eons, how-to books
had sections about replacing
appliance plugs. Forget that.
Today, you can easily find
replacement cord s-also called
appliance whips-with molded
plugs and precrimped connectors, which are far easier and
safer to instal!. By the way,
always grab the plug - not
the cord-when unplugging
an appliance.

Replacing the entire cord is often easier than

replacing a broken plug.

The connectors on the whip attach to terminals

on the appliance.

PREPARING AN UNFINISHED APPLIANCE CORD

I 213

lC

SP E S

INSTALLING A GARBAGE DISPOSER

hough installation of a disposer is largely

the same from brand to brand, be sure

Install the sink and attach the disposer

mounting assembly in the sink outlet. Then

Attach the green ground wire to the

ground screw in the junction box. Then use

to follow the instructions that come with

route the dishwasher overflow pipe into the

wire connectors to splice like

your unit. Typically, plumbing supply and

cabinet under the sink.

to neutral, hot to hot

waste pipes are stubbed out, and 12AWG

cable is roughed-in before the finish walls

and cabinets are installed

O. After the base

With these prep steps done, you're ready

wires~neutral

0 . Fold all wires into

the junction box and replace the cover plate.

to attach the appliance cord. Remove the

Lift the disposer until its mounting ring

cover plate from the bottom of the unit and

engages the mounting ring on the bottom of

cabinet is in place. install a 20-amp duplex

pull its wire leads. Then screw a cable con-

the sink. Turn the unit until the rings lock

receptacle to supply power to the disposer

nector into the knockout in the bottom of

O.

Slide the tube from the dishwasher onto

and dishwasher. The receptacle for the

the unit O. Separate and strip cord wires

the dishwasher inlet stub and tighten its

disposer should be a switched receptac le.

and feed them through the cable connec-

clamps

-+ see
For more on wlrlnlJ a split-tab rece ptacle.
p. 49.

tor. Use needle-nose pliers to pull the wires

charge outlet on the disposer O. Plug the

through the junction box

the cable connector

214 1 INSTALLING A GARBAGE DISPOSER

O.

and then tighten

O. Attach the P-trap to the dis-

disposer plug into the undersink receptacle.

The second plug runs to the dishwasher.

I;

IR 1;(

Olspn~

DISPOSERS
& DISHWASHERS

WIRING A GARBAGE DISPOSER

BOTTOM OF DISPOSER,
COVER REMOVED

Incomlnq
power
Ground

screw
Ground
screw (qreen)

Disposers and dishwashers are both

120v, 20-amp appliances, so both are
supplied by 12AWG cable. Most garbage
disposers have a covered junction
box on the bottom. to which a plugged
cord attaches. You can also hard wire
a disposer, but having a receptacle in
the cabinet under the sink enables a
homeowner to quickly unp lug the unit
should he or she need to repair or
replace it. Typically, an undersink
outlet is controlled by a switch above
the counter, as shown in "Wiring a
Garbage Disposer," at left.
A dishwasher and a garbage
disposer usua lly plug into a duplex
receptacle in the cabinet unde r the
sink-a sp lit-tab receptacle. A split-tab
receptacle is a standard duplex receptacle whose middle tab has been removed
to create a duplex receptacle fed by two
circuits-that is, by two hot wires.
Because they slide out for installation and maintenance, dishwashers
are also installed with a cord and plug.
Most of the time, the dishwasher junction box is located in the front of the
unit, just behind the kick panel. After
attaching cord wires to wire leads in
the junction box, run the cord in the
channel behind the dishwasher to
reach to an outlet.

Wi~ WARNING
,
The NEC specifies that you
connect the two hot wires of a
split-tab receptacle to a double-pole
breaker. When you flip off the toggle
for a double-pole breaker, you shut
off both hot wires. If you instead
connect the hot wires of a split-tab
receptacle to separate, single-pole
breakers and then flip off only one
breaker, you might test the top
half of the split-tab receptacle and
conclude-mistakenly-that the
bottom half was off, too. Attaching
both hot wires to a double-pole
breaker prevents such a potentially
lethal mistake.

~,

Neutral

To disposer
Receptacle

Wire nuts

Hot
Cord pluq
Appliance cord

INSTA L LING A GARBAGE DISPOSER

I 215

 V S

ROUGHING IN AN OVEN OUTLET

oughing in an oven outlet is

not that different from rough-

ing in any other outlet. Remove the

knockout from a four-square box,
insert a plastic cable connector, and
then feed in the 10/3 NM cable that
wi ll power the range. Staple the
cable within 12 in. of the box; drive
the staple just snug

O.

Although an experienced electrician can use a utility knife to strip

sheathing from any cable, using a
cable ripper that can accommodate
large-gauge wire makes sense for
nonprofessionals O. Hold the ripper channel snug to th e cable and
pull it down the length of the cable
to score the sheathing

O.

Pull back the sheathing to expose

wires inside. Then use diagonal

cutters to cut the sheathing free.

Lea ve 1/2 in. to 1 in. of sheathing inside the box

O. Attach the

ground wire to the box using a

green ground screw in a threaded
hole. Wrap the wire clockwise
around the screw so it will stay in
place as the screw tightens down

onil O .
Fold the wires neatly into the box
so they can be easily pulled out
during the trim-out phase, when
they'll be attached to a 30-amp
receptacle or hard wired directly to
a metal-clad appliance whip. Finally,
attach a two-gang mud ring to the
out let box so it will be flush to the
finish surface

O.

216 1 ROUGHING IN AN OVEN OUTLET

ELECTRIC RANGES, OVENS, AND COOKTOPS

When discussing cooking appliances,
you'll need to keep several terms straight
The enclosed cooking area in which you
roast a turkey is an oven; you place pots
and frying pans on cooktop burners.
A range has both an oven and a cooktop.
In any case, the heating elements of
ranges, ovens, and cooktops generally
require 240v, but today's smart appliances come with a plethora of timers, clocks,
sensors, buzzers. and other gizmos that
use 120v. For this reason, many units

require 120/240v wiring, with two hot

wires, an insulated neutral, and an equipment ground wire.
As noted elsewhere, if the unit slides in
and out for maintenance, it is usually installed with a plug inserted into a matched
receptacle. The outlet box that contains
that receptacle may be surface mounted
or recessed (so that the receptacle can be
flush mounted). If the unit drops in and
stays put, it is typically hard wired to a
junction box via an appliance whip.

m,

WIRING A DROP-IN OVEN

rop-in ovens and other

stationary appliances must be

hard wired. For the project shown

here, an electric oven has been
installed in a base cabinet, and the
wires in its Me cable are ready to be
connected to lQAWG wires, roughed
in to a four-square box. The edge
of the box must be flush to the
cabinet back, because plywood is
flammable. If the box or its mud
ring is below the cabinet back, add a
four-square box extension to bring

it flush O.
Install a two-piece, right-angle
cable connector (a flex-90) to the
end of the cable whip. Slide the bottom of the connector onto the end
of the whip and screw on the top
of the cable connector

O. Remove

the stamped knockout on the foursquare cover; then feed the whip
wires and the connector end
through the knockout

O. Tighten a

locknut onto the threaded connector end to lock the cable connector
to the cover.
To ground the outlet box, loop
the incoming ground wire under
a green ground screw

O. Splice

that ground wire to the appliance

ground. Use wire strippers to
remove 1/2 in. of insulation from
the neutral and hot wires on the
incoming cable

w.~

TRADE SECRET

, II 1

Appliances are usually the

same depth as base cabinets
(24 in.) so appliance faces will be
even with cabinet faces. Because
most appliances are installed
against a wall, manufacturers
often build a recessed area in

the back of the appliance to

accommodate electrical

0 ; then use wire

connectors to splice like-colored

connec~

tions. Refer to the user's manual

prior to rough-in.

wires together: black to black,

red to red, and white to white. To
ensure that wire connectors grip
the wires securely, use needle-nose
pliers. (There are two hot wiresred and black-because the oven
requires 240v.)
Once all the wire groups are
spliced us ing connectors

0 , tuck

them into the box. Then attach the

cover to protect the connections

within O.

WIRING A DROP-IN OVEN

I 217

 OU!:fHOlP
WIRING A DROP-IN
OVEN (CONTINUED)

PIIINr.

WIRING LAUNDRY SETUPS

lectricians sometimes run an insulated

of t he incoming wires . If the point of the

ground wire in conduit. In the setup

grounding screw hits the masonry wall, you

shown here, the metal conduit is the system

may need to shorten the grounding screw so

ground. There is, however, a green grounding

that it doesn't run into the masonry. Insert

pigtai l that runs from each box grounding

the stripped wire ends into screw terminals

O. Twist the strand-

screw to a receptacle ground screw. In this

on the dryer receptacle

project. wires are not attached to a power

ed wires beforehand so they wi ll not spread

source, 50 they are safe to handle.

excessively when you tighten the screws.

~ For more on Installlnq metal conduit.

see pp. 205 and 206.

Start by fishing wire to the box nearest

After tightening the screws, gently tug each

wire to be sure it's well attached. The green
pigtail grounds the device to the box.
The receptacle for the washer is a stan~
20~amp

to the power source. Here, four wires had

dard

to be fished: two 10AWG wires to feed the

dryer and two 12AWG wires to feed the

to create loops that you can attach to the

screw terminals on the receptacle O. Once

receptacle. Use a wire stripper

washer. Untape the wire bundle and then

both receptacles are wired, fo ld the wires

trim each set of wires to rough length so

into their respective boxes and attach the

that at least 6 in. of wire sticks out of the

cover plates 0

box

0 ; many electricians leave 8 in. to 10 in.

, O. If you install an industri-

al raised cover, secure the receptacle to the

of wire sticking out.

cover, then screw the cover to the box. Once

Attach a green grounding pigtail to the

box and strip 1/2 in. of insulation off the ends

you've installed the covers, attach incoming

the wires to breakers in the panel.

MEASURING PIPE LENGTH

To determine the lenqth of conduit pipe runninq between two outlet boxes:
Measure from the centerline each box (A).

Subtract 2 in. from the centerline of each box (8).

Subtract the distance each adaptor sticks out of the box (C).
Addthe distance that pipe ends fit into adaptor sockets (0).

Pipe lenqth = A - 28 - 2C + 20
Distance between centerllnes of boxes

Adaptor
(pipe connector)

218 1 WIRING LAUNDRY SETUPS

Outline of
four-square box

nilS HO 0

r.

WIRING REQUIREMENTS
FOR LAUNDRY SETUPS

f
Trim the wires running to each box so that 6 in. to 8 in. of wire stIcks out of
1the
box.

Clothes washers and dryers are often

wired with two surface-mounted
receptacles.
As with electric ranges, electric
dryers typically require 120/240v wiring
because, in addition to their 240v heating
elements, dryers are also equipped with
several elements that use 120v-such as
drum motors, timers, and buzzers. So
dryer circuits include two hot wires, a neutral wire, and an equipment ground wire.
Equipment grounds on washers and
dryers connect to appliance housings
to provide a safe route for fault current.
should a short circuit occur. Washer
circuits are usually wired with 12AWG wire
and protected by a 20-amp breaker or
fuse; dryer circuits are wired with 10AWG
wire are protected by a 30-amp breaker
or fuse. But. as always, note the nameplate ratings on your appliances and
wire them accordingly.
The type of appliances used determines how many wires you fish. Some
dryers require three incoming wires (two
hot. one neutral); whereas others require
two hot wires only. For the washer and
dryer installed in the projects shown
here, we ran four wires: two #10 stranded
THHN wires (two hots) for the dryer
(240v) and two # 12 stranded THHN wires
(a hot and a neutral) for the washing
machine (120v).

DEDICATED VS. DESIGNATED CIRCUITS

Electrical codes require that certain
critical-use appl iances, such as refrigerators
and freezers, be installed on a dedicated
circuit-that is, the circuit serves only one
appliance. Less well known are designated
circuits, such as the dryer receptacle shown
in the photo. The receptacle is the only one
on the circuit: The distinction is that the
circu it is designated for one use (laundry)
but not for one appl iance. Thus, if you
decided to switch to a gas clothes dryer,
you plug both that dryer and a clothes
washer into the receptacle.

Typical laundry setup. A 30-amp dryer receptacle on a dedicated circuit (right)

and a 20-amp wa sher receptacle on a designated circuit (left).

WIRING LAUNDRY SETUPS

I 219

OU~

010

r.(

WIRING LAUNDRY SETUPS (CONTINUED)

INSTALLING BASEBOARD HEATERS

aseboard heaters are increasingly popular as a backup

WIRING BASEBOARD
IN-HEATER THERMOSTATS

to a central heating system . installing units with in-

heater thermostats is a better choice than installing a cenwith in-heater thermostats are easier to install and more

SINGLE-POLE
THERMOSTAT

cost-effective to operate because they del iver heat to areas

110/120

tral wall thermostat that controls all units. Baseboard units

where it's needed most. Because most baseboard units are

installed under windows, units with in-heater thermostats
can respond faster to cold air as it enters.

Baseboard heaters are available in 120v and 240v

models, but 240v models are genera ll y more efficient.
As a rule of thumb, you can connect several small heaters
to one cable runn ing from the main panel, as long as their

Hot

VO)ll~T~S~_+::"',:--==::
-CMIIii$iii:i:S:~-Heating
~...
element

Incoming

power - -+- +
Ground - 1--+""-....
(qreen)
Ground
screw

Load side

_~::I~~~~~~~~~~~

coming off
thermostat

Thermostat face

combined continuous load doesn't exceed 80 percent of

the cable's rating. In other words, if you run 12AWG cable
with 20 -amp protection, the continuous current should
not exceed 16 amps. But because wattage varies from
model to model, follow the installation instructions that
come with your model.

DOUBLE-POLE
THERMOSTAT

220/240 V.O
.~L~T~S~_-i_S...hO;;;W;::-lt_'S_h~O=t.::

cover plate on one end of each unit. feed the incoming

cable through a cable connector and splice the incoming
circuit wires to the thermostat wires. Make sure to attach a
grounding pigtail to the metal housing of the unit. Thermostats will be single-pole or double-pole switches . Double-

llii1i$Sii!iS~--

Wiring an in-heater thermostat is pretty straightforward. Rough-in wiring to each heater location, remove a

Tape white wire black

Incoming

power - -+- +
Ground

(green)
screw

- +--jH<ooLiiiI
,

~~I~~~~~~~~~

pole thermostats are preferable because when you flip

them off, you cut power to both legs of the unit. which is
safer and more convenient.

220

I INSTALLING BASEBOARD HEATERS

Heating
element

Thermostat face
Ground

Load side
coming off
thermostat

HOUSE OlP IPPtl1

r. S

ELECTRIC WATER HEATERS

eplacing an electric wate r heater generally requires a permit, even if you at-

TRADE SECRET

tach the replacement to existing pipes. Th e reason is safety: Inspectors wa nt to

ensure that ga5- and oil-fired un its are prope rly vented and that elect ric heaters are

Electric tank heaters are

becoming rare, given the greater

correct ly wired . Inspectors are particularly concerned that temperatu re and pressure
relief (TPR) valves are co rrectly installed, because TPR valves keep wate r heaters

costeffectiveneS5 of

from exploding in the event of a malfunction. For these reasons and for warranty

water heaters, especially tankless

issues, have a professiona l install yo ur water heater. Th e drawing below is offered for

gas-fired water heaters.

fuel~fired

information only.

WIRING A 240V WATER HEATER

Here's a look at a typical water heater Installation. Three things to note: (1) The cutoff "switch" can be a circuit breaker or a
fused switch rated for the load of the water heater, typically 30 amps. Place the cutoff switch close to the unit. (2) If you use
twowlre cable to wire the water heater, tape the white wire with red or black tape on both ends to Indicate that It is being used
as a hot conductor. (3) Use flexible metallic cable (rather than rigid conduit) between the cutoff switch and the water heater
for extra safety in earthquake regions.

Incoming
power

Outlet (hot water)

- --+

Inlet (cold water)

Connect the two

appliance wires to
different buses to
balance load.

Junction box
(cover removed)

White wire taped

red to show It's hot
Metallic cable from
the cutoff switch to
the water heater

White wire --\-'Ir----''---;=

taped red
to show
It's hot

--+

ELECTRIC WATER HEATERS

I 221

UYDOOR
IRING
DOING AN OUTDOOR RECEPTACLE,
a motion-sensor IIQht, or 10w-voltaQe
path IIQhts can Increase your securlty and safety and enable you to enjoy your
property more fully. Because many outdoor
devices are available as kits, they are usually easy to Install and require few speclalIzed tools. But before you start any proJect,

review local bulldlnQ code requirements

for outdoor Installations. And remember:
Before worklnQ on an exlstlnQ outlet or
fixture, be sure to turn off the power at
the service panel or fuse box and test to be
sure the power Is off. Also, never operate
power tools In damp or rainy conditions.

Installing a motion
sensor light, p. 235

222

PLANNING YOUR OUTDOOR SYSTEM

ci rcuit s feeding kitchen-co unte rt op rece p-

tart by walking th e property and not -

exte rior device instead. Likewise, if you are

ing whe re you'd li ke additional outlet s,

run ni ng power t o an outbuildi ng, run a new

tacles or bat hroom receptacles or int o any

gro unded ci rcu it from the panel.

dedicated circuits that su ppl y power to air-

light s. and so on. Make a list. As you go,

imagi ne activities that take place in different

Install a 20-amp ci rcuit if you r pla ns call

conditioners, clot hes washer s or dryers, or

other power-h ung r y app lia nces. Seco nd, if

locations at night and day. Is there enough

for elec t rical usage that exceeds the load

light along the path when you come home at

lim its of an exist ing ci r cuit, includes a la rge

you discover that the ci r cuit you'd like to tap

night, enough out lets to ente rtai n or to do

number of r eceptacles, o r cont ai ns t hree or

into is wi red with nongroun ded NM cable, BX

chores on the weekend? At this stage, think

more large flood lamps o r ot her large lig ht-

armored cable, or knob -and-tube-don' t tap

big and anticipate future uses, especially if

ing fi xtures rated more than 300w each. If

int o th at circuit. The new extension may not

you must dig up the lawn to install your pres-

you will be using large, stat ionary tools in a

be prope r ly protected. Instead, run a new

ent project. With a little advance plan ning.

workshop or heating the ar ea with electric-

grou nded ci rcu it from the panel. In ad dit ion,

you ca n avoid digging up the lawn a second

it y, you may need to add sever al 120v and

don' t fo r get weathe r pr oof housings or cov-

time, later.

240v ci r cuits. Again, calc ulate the loads

ers and GFCI pr otection.

1f your wish list is extensive, next make

Finally, take yo ur plans for new ci r cuits or

involved.
Two im port ant poi nt s: Fir st, th e NEC

exte nsions to exis ting li ne-vol tage ci r cuits

graph paper. Note sidewa lk s, paths, and

allows you to tap into a general-use or

to the local building dep ar tm ent and have

impo rtant la nd scape elements such as trees

lig ht ing circuit only. You may not tap int o

th em si gn off before yo u sta rt.

a scale draw ing of th e house and ya r d on

and large bushes. Note electrical devices

that yo u'd like to add and existing ones
that need upgrading. The drawi ng will be
especia lly useful when it's time to calculate
the numb er of fi xtu r es and amount of cab le
you'll need. If yo u intend t o take power from
an exist ing outlet, note wher e the nearest
outlet is, even if it's insi de the house.

Getting power
Once you know roughly where you wa nt
to add exterior out lets or light fixtures,
figure out how to get power to them. Th is
wi ll depend, in part, on how many devices
yo u're adding.
If yo u're ad ding just one exte r io r receptacle, for exam ple, find the interio r receptacle
closest to the one you want t o add outside.
If you position the new receptacle in t he
same stud bay as the interio r receptacle,
you'll si mplif y the t ask im mensely because
you won't ha ve to drill through any stud s.
Before cutting ho les in anyt hing , howeve r,
calculate the load on the ci rcuit. Add up
the wattage of all th e lights and appliances
presently in use and the wattage of t he new
out let or ligh t you want t o add. If the t otal
load on a IS-amp ci r cuit exceeds 1,4 4 0w, run
a new grounded ci rcuit from th e panel t o t he

224 1 PLANNING YOUR OUTDOOR SYSTEM

Outdoor safety: checking codes and

utilities Outdoor outlets and fixtures are exposed

to
weather; because moisture greatly Increases the chance
of electrical shocks, local codes are strict about what
materials you can use and how they must be Installed. In
general, you don't need a permit to install low-voltage
lights because the chance of shock Is low; but If you want
to add an outdoor receptacle or a light fixture that uses
line voltage (standard house current of 110v or 220v),
you'll need a permit.
If you'll be running cable underground, check with local
utilities before you dig. Call USA (Underground Service
Alert) 800-227-2600. There may be water pipes, gas
lines, telephone or cable lines, or electrical cables burled
in the yard. Often, utilities will send out a technician to
show you where such lines are located. If your lawn has
a sprinkler system, note where sprinkler heads are and
try to avoid the water pipes that feed them. Remember
that only a licensed electrician should Install hot tubs,
swimming pools, and the like because such Installations
require special grounding methods.

CHOOSING OUTDOOR LIGHTS

here are a wide variety of light fixtures to choose from. For

starters, choose line-voltage lights (120v) if you want to deter

intrude rs, accent an architectural feature, or illuminate a work area

such as an outdoor grill. To light up a walkway or add accent lights to
the landscaping, however, low-voltage lights (12v or 24v) are usually a

more economical choice and are generally easier to install. There are
also la-vo solar units (no wi ring needed) that charge during day and
glow softly all night.
In general, don't install more light than you need to serve the
function for a given area. Outdoor lights that are too bright waste
energy and will be too glaring for intimate dining or entertaining at
night. Your neighbors will also thank you for not spot-lighting their
house when they 're trying to relax or sleep.
In addition to overhead lights, side-mounted lights, step- riser
lights, in-ground fixtures, post-mounted lights, and stake-mounted
lights, there are many switching options. You can control lights with
standard on-off switches, timers, motion detectors, and photoce lls
that turn lights on when the sun goes down. Most home centers and
lighting stores have a dazzling array to choose from.

Outdoor IiQhts are available in an array of styles. Here.

Mission-style IIQhts brlQhten a stone stairway.

ILLUMINATING OUTDOOR LIGHTS

As for your own safety, remember that intruders
dislike being in the limelight. Install a security light.
and they'll probably go elsewhere. A few tips to
make your lights more effective:
In stall motion-sensor lights. Because they are
dark until triggered by motion, motion-sensor
lights startle intruders. Better-quality sensors
can be calibrated so they are activated only when
someone nears the house-not by every dog walker
on the block.
Put security lights high on a porch or under the
eaves. Lights that can be reached without a ladde r
can be easily unscrewed. Most security lights have
dual sockets so that if one bulb burns out,
there's still one shining.
Light walks and doors. It's easier for you to
quickly approach and enter you r house if sidewalks
and entry doors are tit. Groping for your house keys
in the dark is especially ill-advised if you live alone
or along a dimly lit street.
There are also security light kits that turn on
lights inside the house if someone approaches or
touches a window. And if you're leaving the house
for an extended period, put lamps on timers to
confuse wou ld-be intruders.
Motion -sensor IIqhts not only welcome you home but also help keep
intruders away.

CHOOSING OUTOOOR LIGHTS

I 225

TOOLS & MATERIALS

cally cuts a trench 4 in. to 6 in. wide, and as

receptacle installed upstream (toward the

deep as 24 in. Spread sheet plastic on either

power source) or by a GFCI circuit breaker

needed to wire a house interior. The big

exceptions, obviously, are digging and earth-

side of the trench so you can place the dirt

from the trench nearby-which makes refill-

moving tools. A square-nose shovel or spade

is the most useful tool when you're mak-

ing the trench easier. Wear heavy boots,

heavy gloves, safety glasses, and ear plugs

he tools you need to install outdoor

wiring are pretty much the same ones

ing a shallow slot for low-voltage cable

O.

when operating a trencher.

If you're actually digging a trench, use a

Exterior light fixtures do not need GFCI

protection. If the box is surface mounted.
it needs to be raintight. If the box is
recessed in the wall. it does not. The fixture

trenching shovel with a pointed nose and a

Materials

reinforced shoulder that you can stamp on

with a boot to drive it deep.

The NEC requires that all exterior outlets

and circuits have ground-fault interrupter

Digging trenches is hard work. however;

- A circuit protected by a GFCI breaker.

must be listed for damp locations if under

eaves and listed for wet locations jf directly

(GFCI) protection. This protection includes

exposed to weather.
There are two common types of weather-

so when the pros have to dig one of any

the following:

proof covers (also called raintight covers)

length they rent a gas-powered ditch-digging

machine. also known as a trencher O. A

- A GFCI receptacle installed in a

weatherproof box

(see top photo on the facing page). A weatherproof-while-in-use cover has a plastic cov-

trencher looks like a cross between a powered garden tiller and a chainsaw and typi-

A standard receptacle installed in a

weatherproof box protected by a GFCI

er that shuts over an electrical cord. such as

226 1 TOOLS

& MATERIALS

that used for holiday lights. A weathertiqht

cover is a gasketed cover that shuts tight

over the receptacles when not in use.
Aboveground, electrical cable must be
housed in conduit with raintight fittings
(see bottom photo at right). You can use
polyvinyl chloride (PVC), thin -walled
electrical metallic tubing (EMT) conduit ,
threaded intermediate metal conduit (IMC)
or rigid steel conduit (RSC). PVC fittings are
glued together to achieve a raint ight fit; EMT
conduit uses compression fittings; and IMC
and RSC use threaded fittings. Note: EM T
conduit fitt ings intended for interior use are
not ra intight and are not approved for
exterior use.
Belowground, you can run flexible
underground feeder (UF) cable at a depth
acceptable to local codes-typically, 18 in.
deep. Some codes allow you to dig a shal lower trench if the cable runs in steel conduit but because threading steel conduit

Raintight (weatherproof) covers include a weatherproof-in-use receptacle cover with

adapter plates (left) and a weatherproof box with gasketed cover (right). Plastic adapter
plates enable you to use the cover with a duplex or GFe) receptacle. The weatherproof
box gasket Is precut, so It accepts either a duplex or GFel receptacle.

requires spec ial equipment and advanced

skills, it's not a reasonab le option for most
nonprofessionals.

WARNING
Avoid plugging or unplugging
devices into exterior receptacles-or using corded power
tools outside-when it's
raining or snowing.
K

Overview of exter ior conduit types, fittings, and boxes: A, 1/2-in. PVC pipe; B, PVC elbow;
e, PVC box with unthreaded openings (for slip-in fittings); D, male adapter (MA) pve
fitting, which can be used with a threaded box or conduit; E, RSC pipe; F, RSC elbow;
G, LB condulet; H, RSC coupling; I, EMT pipe; J , EMT elbow; K. bell box with three threaded holes; L, threaded EMT compression fitting; M, EMT compression coupling. Note: The
LB conduit and bell box accept any 1/2-in. (trade size) threaded fitting-whether PVC
adapter, EMT, or RSC.

TOOLS & MATERIALS

I 227

TAPPING INTO AN EXISTING OUTLET

Use a screwdriver to pry out a knockout.

hen adding a single outdoor recep-

tacle, it's usually easiest to tap into an

interior outlet within the same stud bay. In

the installation shown here, the electrician
solved the box-capacity problem by replacing
the old receptacle with a comme rc ial-grade
duplex receptacle. Instead of splicing new
and old wires and using pigta ils-which wou ld
have required twist-on wire connectors and
thus a larger box-he joined in coming and
outgoing wires by inserting them into terminal holes in the back of the receptacle and
then tightened down the terminal screws.
Note: Wiring a commercial -grade receptacle

Detach the wires from the term inals,

wires . Use a special green grounding nut to

splice the grounds O. Use wire st rippe r s

in this manner is not the same as back-wir-

fold them out of the way, and look for a

ing a standard receptacle because standard

knockout in the box to remove. Typically, a

to r emove 1/2 in. of the insulation from the

receptacles have inferio r spring clamps that

pair of knockouts will be hidden beneath an

ends of the hot and neutral wires

are unreliable.

integ ral cable connector-unsc rew it. Th en

~ For Information about uck-wtrtnQ,

see p. 42 .

remove a knockout from the bottom of the

out let box

O. Drill through the exterior wall

and into the same stud bay as the interior

Start by turning off the power to the
receptacle at the panel or fuse box; then use

receptacle

O. Then, inside the house, push

fish tape through the kn ockout hole and into

O. Outside, a helper can catch

an inductance tester to make sure the power

the stud bay

is off. Remove the cover plate and unscrew

the tape, pull it out of the hole you just

the mounting sc r ews securing the recep-

drilled, and attach the new cable to it

tacle to the outlet box

O.

Pull the receptacle out of the box, being

O.

Inside, pull the fish tape and the attached

0.

To save space in the old box, inse rt the

stripped wire ends into terminal holes in the
back of the commercial-grade receptacle

C'!). Because commercial -grade receptacles

so lidly clamp wire ends, this co nn ect ion is
as solid as any splice. Fold the wires into the
box as yo u push the receptacle into place
until it is fully seated in the box-do not use
mounting screws to pull the receptacle into
the box because this cou ld strip the screw

cable into the box. Pull about 1 ft. of new

threads. Then replace the cove r and screw it

careful not to touch the screw terminals;

cable out of the box and then replace the

int o place.

then test them again to make sure they're

integral cable clamp

not ene rgized

O.

to secu r e the cable.

Strip the cable sheathing and splice like

wires together, starting with the ground

228 1 TAPPING INTO AN EXISTING OUTLET

~ See "MountlnQ and WlrlnQ an Exterior

Outlet. on p. 230.

W.l1I WARNING

, II 1

To power holiday lights

safely, plug them into a GfCI
receptacle housed in a waterproof-while-in-use box cover.
But before installing the lights,
calculate the total wattage of
all the bulbs so you don't
overload the circuit.

ADDING AN OUTDOOR RECEPTACLE

If you tap into an
existing receptacle
at the end of a circuit, there should be
enough room inside
the box to bring a
cable to feed the new
outdoor receptacle.
However, if there are
already two cables in
the box-incoming and
outgoing-you may
need to replace the
existing box with a
larger one.

Existing Inter.clo,,'_---,
receptacle

IncomlnQ cable -,----,-1-/

(from power source)
PIQtalis ensure
continuous
power downstream.

GFel receptacle
New cable

TAPPING INTO AN EXISTING OUTLET

I 229

MOUNTING & WIRING AN EXTERIOR OUTLET

,I

nee the new cable is spliced to the cable

ends of the neutral and hot wires . Attach the

in an existing receptacle, feed the cable

ground wire that you earlier looped around

through the cable connector in the back of

the green ground screw to the GFCI recep-

the exterior box and mount the box. (The

tacle

hole drilled in the exterior wall must be wide

wires in their respective screw-terminal

enough for the cable connector or the box

holes O .

won't sit flat to the wall.) To mount the box,

use mounting ears or the small holes in the

connect the hot and neutral

If the GFCI receptacle has plaster ears,

use diagonal cutters to remove them;

back. Apply siliconized caulking to the hole

otherwise, the receptacle may not fit into

before attaching the box. Plumb the box and

the box. Fold the wi r es and push the recep -

screw It to the outside of the building

O.

Strip sheathing from the cable and ground

tacle into the box; then screw down the

mounting screws that secure the receptacle

O. A weatherproof gasket is used

the box by looping the bare ground wire

to the box

around the green grounding screw. Leave

to keep water away from the wires-set it

this ground wire long

O. Use a wire stripper

to remove liz in. of the insulation from the

230

O . Then

in place around the receptacle before you

attach the cover O .

I MOUNTING & WIRING AN EXTERIOR OUTLET

TRADE SECRET
GFCI receptacles are
larger than standard
duplex receptacles, so
there will not be enough
room in a single~gang box
if you also need to splice
an outgoing cable to feed
another outdoor outlet,
downstream. In that case,
install a deep box or install
an extension to the singlegang box.

RUNNING POWER TO AN OUTBUILDING

he first step to wiring an outbuilding is to figure out

how many lights and outlets you need. If your needs

are modest. you may be able to tap into an existing outlet

in the main house and extend the circu it from it. Calculate the total loads for the existing circuit and the extension to see if the circuit has enough capacity. otherwise.
run a new circuit from the panel to the outbuilding.
If the outbuitding isn't more than 50 ft. from the
house and has a few lights and outlets, it usually can be
supplied by a 120v, 20-amp circuit and 12/2 w/grd UF
cab le. But check with loca l building authorities before
you start. Get the necessary permit, Code requirements,
and inspection schedules.
The hardest part of the job is usually digging the
trench because local codes typically require it to be
18 in. deep. Fortunately, you can rent a gas-powered
trencher to do the digging for you. After removing the
dirt from the trench, pick out any rocks or debris that
could damage the cab le. Then lay the UF cab le in the
trench, flattening it as you go

O.

RUNNING POWER TO AN OUTBUILDING

GETTING
POWER FROM
THE HOUSE

AT THE OUTBUILDING
LB conduit
Weatherproof
outlet box with
cover or
LB condulet

or

" ,.,-- - Junction box

outlet box

PVC nllpple -

---'-!ill

--t---;::J=~mL~ Male adapter (threaded)

3/4 -ln.

PVC conduit

Incominq
cable

Female

RUNNING POWER TO AN OUTBU I LDING

I 231

RUNNING POWER TO AN OUTBUILDING (CONTINUED)

Use electrical-grade PVC conduit, couplings, and adapters to protect the UF cable
between the bottom of the trench and the
outdoor boxes in which connections wilt be
made. At the house, UF cable is typically
spliced to an interior wire in a covered singlegang, weathertight box

O. On the other

end, the cable typically passes through an

LB condulet and a short length of PVC pipe
before terminating in a junction box inside

the outbuilding

O.

WORKING WITH PVC CONDUIT

PVC conduit can be heated and bent, allowing you to change pipe direction with
far less cutting and fewer fittings than you
would need for rigid pipe. PVC conduit is
intended to be used outside: It is flexible,
durable. and waterproof; but its assemb lies
are not good-looking or as protective as
metal pipe or cable. Be sure to use only the
gray PVC conduit rated for electrical work
White PVC plumbing pipe is unsuitable as
electrical conduit ; moreover, heating it can
release noxious fumes. Wear work gloves
to avoid burns when heating gray PVC pipe.

It's best to use a hacksaw with a metalcutting blade to cut PVC pipe, though any
fine-tooth saw wi ll work. Make the cut as
square as possible. Use a pocket knife or
curved file to remove burrs from the pipe
end, then wipe it with a rag. Apply an even
coat of PVC cement to the outside of the
pipe and the inside of the fitting. If you're
bending pipe, screw the threaded adaptor
into the outdoor box or conduit first, then
glue the bent pipe to the adapter.
To bend PVC pipe, heat it with a MAPgas torch; one common brand is the BernzOmatic. You can also use a hot box or a

PVC heating blanket (Greenlee). Keep the

torch point moving constantly, rotate the
pipe periodically, and tape the pipe ends to
contain the heat and speed up the process.
When the pipe droops, it's ready to shape.
Place it against an irregular walt or foundat ion and it will conform to that contour.
Strap the pipe close to the outdoor box
and the foundation . To secu re straps to the
foundation, first predrill with a masonry
bit. Then insert expandable plastic anchors
into the holes and drive strap screws into
the anchors .

To bend PVC pipe. heat It with a handheld

MAP ~gas torch. Rotate the pipe and keep the
torch moving to heat the pipe evenly.

When the heated PVC pipe begins to droop,

you know it's ready to bend_ Shape it to fit
the side of the building or foundation.

Use straps to secure the pipe to exterior

walls and foundations.

(also cailed schedule-40 PVC conduit).

232 1 RUNNING POWER TO AN OUTBUILDING

INSTALLING LOW-VOLTAGE PATH LIGHTS

O.

aw-volta ge lights make nighttime paths

conduit was ins talled to protect the la-va

ture, then run the la-va cable to them

and wal kways safer, are easy to install,

ca ble as it traveled up the exterior wall into

Run cable alo ng the ground and cove r it

and pose alm ost no shock threat. Always

the garage. If you install the power pack out-

with a few inches of mulch, or use a sQuare-

follow the installation instru ctions th at come

side, yo u probably won't need co nduit. If yo u

nosed shovel to crea te a shallow slot for the

wit h yo ur low-voltage kit. Kit s usua lly inc lude

do inst all cond uit, sta rt by insert ing a fish

tape down th e conduit O. Se parate the two

cable. Stom p on th e shovel so it goes down

4 in., th en roc k the shovel from side to side

light assemb les, la-va cable, posts, ground

stakes, an d a tim er-transformer power pack
whose transfo rmer redu ces house curre nt
from 120v to 12v.
In th e installation show n here, the power
pac k was mounted inside the garage, so PVC

O. Press the cable

wires in th e la-va cable, snip one, loop and

to create a V-shaped slot

tape the remai ning wire to the fis h tape, and

into the slot

pu ll th e la-va cable through th e co nduit.

close the soil ove r th e cable .

Place the light s whe re th ey'll best illuminate a wal kway or highlight a la nd sca pe fea-

Eac h light fi xture has tw o wire lea ds t hat

terminate in sharp-pointed cable co nn ec-

0 ; th en stamp your feet to

Lo -vo liqht kits typlc:ally c:ontaln sc:rew-toqether parts: lamps, shades,

riser posts, and qround stakes_ At right: a c:oll of lo-YO cable and a power
pac:k-a combination timer and transformer to step down YoltaQe to 12V.

INSTALLING LOW - VOLTAGE PATH LIGHTS

I 233

INSTALLING LOW-VOLTAGE PATH LIGHTS (CONTINUED)

tors. When snapped together, the connec

LOW-YOLTAGE LIGHT PARTS

tors pierce the insulation of the la-va wires

and supply each light with 12v current

O.

To power the system, attach la-vo cable

wires to the terminals on the power pack

O.

Shade

Bulb - - ---II

Mount the power pack securely to the waH

and plug it into the outlet. Power packs are
Prongs
pierce
cable.

equipped with timers so that the lights come

on and turn off whenever you like-whether

you're home or away

O.
Post - - - (riser post)

Low

Wire leads

voltage

to fixture.

cable

Ground - - -I

stake

'--...L_ Wire leads

RUNNING LO-YO CABLE UNDER A SIDEWALK

The easiest way to run lo-YO cable under
a sidewalk is to cut a piece of EMT pipe
about 1 ft. longer than the sidewalk Is wide.
Hammer one end of the EMT shut so it
creates a point, then use a hand sledqe to
drive the EMT under the sidewalk. To prevent
closing the end of the pipe you hammer on,
hold a scrap of 2x4 aqainst the pipe end as
you hit It. When the pointed end emerqes from
the other side of the walk, use a hacksaw to
cut It off. Then feed the lo-vo cable through
the EMT pipe. Be sure to wear safety goggles

~~~*,::::!~C"'--=_ _ _ _-;)L_

Push-on plastic
bushing to protect
wire insulation

234 1 INSTALLING LOW -VOLTAGE PAT H L IGHTS

When point
emerges, cut off
crimped end.

Scrap lumber
prevents damage
to open end of
conduit.

INSTALLING A MOTION-SENSOR LIGHT

ation-sensor lights require 120v, 50

they must be mounted on boxes rated

for outdoor use. The fixture must be listed

for damp locations if installed under eaves
or must be listed for wet locations if directly
exposed to weather. If you are replacing an
existing light with a motion-sensor light,
don't assume that the old box is raintightexamine it. Exterior boxes should have flexible gaskets between the box and the fixture
base and threaded openings with closure
plugs. If the box has only standard knockouts,

it's not raintight.

Turn off power to the fixture and test to
be sure it is off. Then unscrew the mounting
screws securing it to the box. Holding the
fixture in one hand, touch an inductance
tester to the wire splices to be sure they
are not energized. Disconnect the wire
splices; if the existing box is damaged or
inappropriate, remo ve it. The new box
must be raintight

O.

Feed the incoming wires through the

cab le connector in the back of the box and
then attach the box to the wall

a.Mounting

screws should sink into sheathing or into a

block screwed to the sheathing. Attach the
mounting bar to the box

and attach a

ground wire to the ground screw on the box

or mounting bar. Splice the ground wires
from the box and the incoming cable

O.

Fit a weatherproof gasket over the cable

wires; then splice them to fixture leads;
hot to hot, neutral to neutral

O. Tuck the

wires into the box and attach the fixture

O.

Before screwing the bulbs into the sockets,

slide waterproof washers onto them

O.

Adjust the motion sensor so that it is triggered by people approaching the house-not
by passing cars, dog walkers, and the like.

INSTALLING A MOTION-SENSOR LIGHT

I 235

I ~--------------~

lNELS
SUBPANELS
T

HIS CHAPTER OFFERS AN overview

for those who want to add a circuit
to an exlstln9 panel, learn about
Installln9 subpanels, or understand the
major elements of a service uP9rade. Addln9
a circuit Is not difficult, but we recommend
havln9 a licensed electrician do all work
Inside a panel. In particular, only a professional should uP9rade electrical service.
If you want more Information about panel
work or service uP9rades, hire a pro and
watch at a safe distance.
There are several reasons lor this caution: First, there's no obvious way for a

nonprofessional to be sure that an exlstIn9 system Is correctly 9rounded and free

from shock dangers. Second, some panels
are so old, poorly wired, or overloaded that
simply removln9 or replacln9 a cover can be
dangerous. Third, local bulldln9 codes may
require that major uP9rades be done only
by licensed electricians. Last, an Inexpertly
wired electrical system may nullify appliance or equipment warranties or even void
your homeowner's Insurance should an electrical fire occur.

SUBPANELS

Z36

UNDERSTANDING SERVICE PANELS & SUBPANELS

lectricat panels vary in size and configuration, con-

tributing to the general confusion over how to wire

them correctly. So let's first look at how utilities supply

electricity (service entrances) and then consider the difference between service panels (also called main panels
or main service panels) and subpane/s.
For decades, overhead service entrances were
the only type, with large service conductors running

WORKING SAFELY IN A SERVICE PANEL

Cut power inside the service panel by flipping the main breaker off or
by removing the main fuse in a fuse box. This de-energizes the hot buses.
But remember that large feeder wires may still be hot on the incoming
side of the main breaker-avoid touching that area . Unscrew the pane l
cover and set it aside.
Carefu lly test feeders and breaker terminals for vol tage. If VOltage on
any exposed part is still present. carefully replace the cover and call a
licensed electrician . If no voltage is present you can proceed . If you have
any doubt or uncertainty, call a licensed electrician. Do not take the risk!

from a utility pole to a service head (or weather head)

mounted on or near the roof. But large wires are
unsightly, so buried service entrances ha ve become
more and more popular.
Typically, three service conductors run to a meter
base. The two hot conductors attach to lugs on the
supply side of the meter, and the neutra l conductor
attaches to a neutral bus bonded to the metal box.
When a meter is inserted in the base, power flows from
the house-side meter lugs to a main disconnect (main
breaker) in a service panel. Important point: All service
panels contain a main breaker. Subpanels typically do
not, unless they are housed in a separate building from

Always turn off the power before

workinq on an electrical system.

the main breaker.

In most setups the main breaker attaches directly
to two hot buses. Turn off the ma in breaker and you
disconnect power to all breakers and circu its energized

After removinq the cover, touch

one tester pronq to the bare end of
a feed wire and the other pronq to
the neutral bus.

by those buses and to any subpanels downstream-away

from the power source. Nonetheless, always test to be
sure the power is off after flipping off the main breaker.
To be safe, an electrical system must be grounded.
At the transformer, a ground wire runs from the neutral
conductor to a ground rod driven into the ea r th . At the

Avoid touchinq the feeder wires that

attach to the main breaker-they stay
hot even when the main breaker is
turned off.

service panel, a ground wire attaches to a ground buss,

LOCK 'EM OUT!

WARNING
If you are at all uncertain whether a panel
is enerqized, do not remove its cover. Call a
licensed electrician. 00 not take the risk!

238 1 UNDERSTANDING SERVICE PANELS & SUBPANELS

Once you've shut off power in a

service panel, tape the panel shut
and post a warning sign of work in
progress as good first steps. But
it's still possible for someone to
remove the tape and reenergize
the system. Pros prefer to use a
breaker lockout, which limits panel
access to the person holding the
key. You can buy panel lockouts
at electrical suppliers and most
home centers.

SERVICE ENTRANCES

exits through the bottom of the panel, and clamps to

a ground rod. If there are separate neutral and ground
buses in the service panel, both wilt be bonded to the

neutral/ground bus.

Though most older homes have ove rhead se r vice, burled

service is becoming increasingly common. The utility's
responsibility ends where the service-drop cables are
spliced to the service conductors running to the meter.
In some areas, Code requires that underground
conductors be housed in conduit.

This is a second important distinction: Neutral and

ground conductors are bonded at the service panel, but

AERIAL SERViCE ENTRANCE

metal body of the pane l. In some service panels , both

neutral and ground conductors attach to a common

never in a subpanel. That is, in a sub panel there will always

Hot primary

be a separate neutra l bus and a ground bus. Typically, the

ground bus bar in a subpanel will be bonded to the metal
body of the panel, whereas the neutral bus bar in a sub-

Neutral

panel will be mounted on nonconducti ve brackets.

Again, downstream from the service panel, grounds and

Service drop
(three-wire)

conductors feed a service panel, four conductors feed a

10tt.- -

subpanel; two hot wires, one neutral, and one ground.

Ground wire

SERVICE ENTRANCE TO
THE EAVES SIDE
When the service drop approaches over eaves, the service
riser is sent up through the eaves and the point at which
the riser emerges from the roof jack is caulked .

2 ft. to 3

tt.

Service drop
Service

riser-t1" ~~""4="",.,,

Support braces

minimum
clearance

BURiED SERVICE ENTRANCE

Neutral

Neutral

Splice point
rI""""--r-L..__ J----l
Service
conductors
12 ft . min imum
over driveway

neutrals are always separate. Thus, although three service

Pulling
pressure

Point of
attachment

Hot primary

Conduit
to bottom
of pole

Meter
panel

Service laterals (three Insulated

conductors) buried 4 ft. underqround

4 ft. max.

2-ln. threaded - - ---fl f - - - - - - - - - - -.,

galvanized steel
pipe

Meter panel

UNDERSTANDiNG SERViCE PANELS & SUBPANELS

I 239

SIZING PANELS, SUBPANELS & CONDUCTORS

A METER-MAIN COMBO PANEL
Inside a meter-main combination panel,

A SUBPANEL WITH FEEDS

TERMINATED AT LUGS

before the meter has been installed.

If there's no room left In the main panel,

adding a subpanel is a good option.

Hot service
conductors

- --F=="'l;:.:;r- -

Rigid
conduit
and service
riser

.;;;~~ci-- Neutral

service

feed

conductors

Main
breaker
Meter
base

----f-

Subpanel
breaker

Neutrall
qround bus

Hot
buses

(service

panel only)
Hot

Ground
bus

buses

Neutral

feed to
subpanel
Hot

feeds to
5ubpanel

Groundlnq

wire to
Neutral--+ service
conductor

ground rod

Protective plastic
bushing

240

I SIZING PANELS. SUBPANELS & CONDUCTORS

Neutral

Hot

Ground feed
to subpanel

Feeds
Neutral
bus

bus

Ground
conductor

OU

o size the service panel, many electri-

cians calculate household needs (am pac-

The NEe allows a max imum of 42 breaker

spaces in a single panel. If your system still

To give one example of service conductor

sizing : A home with a 200-amp service

ity), then add 20 percent to 25 percent for

has capacity but you've used up the avail-

panel should be powered by three 2/0

future needs.

able panel spaces, add a 5ubpane l. If your

copper THHN/THWN conductors. As noted

~ For more on calculatln" household needs,

see Po 164.

needs exceed system ampacity, upgrade

earlier, two of the conductors are hot and

the service.

the third is neutral (taped white). Each hot

All conductors-whether they feed a serBecause lifestyles and energy consumption vary widely, it's tough to generalize

conductor carries 120v relative to the neu-

vice panel or energize wall outlets-must

tral , so together the two hot conductors are

be sized according to the loads they carry.

capable of deli ve ring 240v relative to each

about service panel size . For a family in a

If you'd like more information on sizing

other. Remember, only licensed electricians

2,QaD-sq.-ft. house, a 125-amp service panel

conductors you can either get a copy of

and utility company workers should upgrade

a service entrance.

is probably adequate. But many electricians

the most recent National Electrical Code

recommend a 200-amp panel for an "aver-

or a copy of Code Check: Electrical (Taunton

age" household in a home less than 3,500

Press), which does a good job of summariz-

sq. ft. that is not heated electrically.

ing the NEe tables.

Key Terms
Conductors
Technically, anything that conducts
electricity is a conductor, but the
term most often denotes individual
wires, regardless of size. Thus the
large wires that run from a utility pole
are service conductors. The fat wires
that run down a service riser to a
meter base are conductors, as are
the slim circuit wires that energize
outlets and light fixtures.
Wire

Wire is a generic term that refers to

an individual conductor, and it is most
often used when referring to the size
or type of the conductor, for example
12AWG and 2/0 THHN/THWN
stranded wires.

Cable
Cable is an assembly of several
conductors, usually in a plastic or
metal sheathing. Hence, Romex cable,
metal-clad (MC) cable, SE cable, and
so on. SE cable, a frequently misused
term, is a specific type of large, nonmetallic cable that is not an acceptable
service conductor in all regions.
Feeds
Feeds, or feeders, are distinguished
by function more than form, though
typically they are larger conductors
that supply power to an element
downstream. Thus feeders might run
from a meter base to a main breaker
or from a service panel to a subpanel.

SIZING PANELS. SUBPANELS & CONDUCTORS

I 241

ADDING A CIRCUIT BREAKER

Various breakers. From upper left, clockwise: single pole 15A, single pole
20A. single pole 20A GFel , single pole 20A AFCI, double pole 30A (for
220 V loads),

ircuit breakers come in various con-

cable to reach the farthest point inside the

neutrals toward the bus creates a neat,

figurations. In the project shown here,

panel. Staple cable within 12 in. of the panel.

orderly arrays of wires.

Score the cable sheathing by making two

diagonal passes and sliding the sheathing

Snap the breaker onto the hot bus 0 and

press down to seat the breaker securely on

pole breakers in a standard single-pole

off. Or score the sheathing lightly down the

the hot bus pole(s). Strip'/2 in. of insulation

breaker space.) A typical single-pole breaker

middle

is installed in exactly the same way.

diagonal cutters to snip it off. Leave about

NOTE: Twin breakers can not be used to

'/ z in. of sheathing sticking into the panel.

Before attaching the hot wire, slide a circuit

Separate the ground, neutral, and hot

tag onto the hot wire to identify the location

a 20-amp twin breaker is being installed to

conserve space. (A twin is two slim sing le-

supply 240 volts.

0 , peel back the sheathing, and use

from the hot wire, then connect it to the lug

screw on the end of the breaker O. Note:

cut the power to the panel and test to be

wires. Connect the ground wire first O. In

a service panel, the ground will attach to

it feeds.
After connections in the panel are com-

sure it's off. Remove the cover, then use

a ground/neutral bus; in a subpanel, the

plete, make sure all splices, switches, recep-

When adding a circuit to an existing panel.

need le-nose pliers to jab out a knockout

O.

ground will attach to a separate ground

tacles, fixtures, and/or appliances on the

Install a cable connector into the knockout.

bar. Insert only one ground wire beneath

new circuit are instalted and there are no

pull the cable through the connector, and

tighten the connector to prevent strain on

each lug screw. Next strip '/2 in. of insulation

from the neutral and connect it to the neutral

open wires or shorts in the circuit. Replace

the cover, turn on the breaker, and test the

electrical connections O. Cut enough extra

bus

242 1 ADDING A CIRCUIT BREAKER

0 . Making right-angle turns in individual

devices for proper function.

GFCI VS. AFCI BREAKERS:

WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE?
Inst alling GFCI and AFCI brea kers is esse nt ially the
same, but these t wo Code -req uired breakers offer
protection from differen t hazard s.
Ground fault circ uit int errupter (GFCI ) bre akers
appea red first. A ground faul t is any failure of th e
elect rical system that leaks current from a hot wi re.
GFeis are hig hl y se nsit ive devices that ca n detect
mi nu scule (5 milliamp) current lea ks and shut off
power almost instan taneously-typically, within 1/40
second. A GFCl's primary function is to protec t peo'
pie from elect r ical shocks, especially when there is
moisture present. Th e NEe req uires GFCI protection
on all bathroom receptacles; kitchen receptacles
wi thin 4 ft. of a sin k; all receptacles serving kitchen
counters; outdoor rece ptacles; accessible basement
or ga rage receptacles; and receptacles near pools.
hot tubs, and so on.
Arc-fault ci rcu it interr upter (ArCI) breakers, on
the ot her hand, help prevent house fires. ArCls
detect minute fluctuations in current associated
wit h arcing and de-energize the circuits befo re a
fire can start. Arcing most commonly occ urs whe n a
nail or screw punctures a cabl e, when insulation on
an ex tensio n cord beco mes frayed, or connec tion s
become loose at an outlet or a switch. The NEC requires ArCI protec t io n on all 120v bedroom ci rcui ts.

DOUBLE-POLE CIRCUIT BREAKERS

The back of a double-pole brea ker has two pressure clips that
snap onto two hot bus poles-t hu s providing 240v of powe r.
With double-pole breakers, both red and black hot wi res are
attac hed to the brea ker. En ergy will fl ow whethe r you con nec t
a red or black hot wire to either terminal. but elect ricians routin ely al ternate colored wi res : black, red, black, red.

ADDING A CIRCUIT BREAKER

I 243

INSTALLING A SUBPANEL

here are many reasons to install a

subpanel:

If studs are spaced 16 in. on-center, install

stress the knockout. It is far easier to strap

a standard, 141/Z-in.-wide panel. Use four

the cable to a brace in the middle of the stud

W4 in. by 10 screws to mount the panel 0

bay and run the cable straight into the panel.

Secure the ground wire to the main lu g of

screws should embed at least 1 in. into studs.

Increasingly, main service panels are

in stalled outside so firefighters can discon-

Install the panel at a comfortable height, so

the subpanel ground bus O. Cut the three

nect power before going into the house-

it wi ll be easy to wire and access. Remove a

insulated feed wires, allowing enough extra

in this case, a sub panel inside contains

concentric knockout in the panel and install

a connector appropriate to the cable or con-

to loop them gently. Avoid sharp bends,

which can damage wire. Strip 1 in. of insula-

all the branch circuits.

duit that feeds the panel. Also install a pro-

tion from the feed ends. Use an Allen wrench

tective cab le bushing. Here, the feed is a

or torque wrench to connect the feed wires

for more circuit breakers, a subpanel

**2 Romex cable. Pull 3 ft. of cable into the

to their respective lugs O. Loop the hot

allows for expansion .

panel. tighten the connector, and strip the

feeds around the perimeter of the panel,

cable sheathing . (Note the cross-brace

between the studs, just below the paneL)

distancing them from the neutral feed so

there will be a open area through which to

When a system has unused capacity but

the service panel has no available slots

A subpanel distributes power to a

separate building.
A subpanel can offset voltage drops on
circuits that are too distant (70 ft. or

run smaller circuit wires O . Looping the wire

Code requires that you secure the cable

within 12 in. of the panel, but 2/0 cable is stiff.

generously also ensures that there will be

80 ft.) from the service panel. In this case,

Strapping cable to a stud would force it to

enough extra cable in case you need to strip

the larger gauge wires that feed subpanels

enter the panel at a sharp angle, which could

and reconnect feed ends later O.

suffer less voltage drop than the smaller

gauge wires of branch circuits.

LOCATING A SUBPANEL

Size subpanels based on anticipated loads.

If you're adding a subpanel in the same build-

i!

ing as the main panel so you can add lighting

and general -use circuits, install a 60-amp
subpanel with at least 12 breaker slots. If the

[J

subpanel is distributing power to a distant

building that you want to use as a workshop
or office, or perhaps expand later, install a
100-amp or lS0-amp subpanel.
People frequently add subpanels when
planning a major kitchen remodel, because
subpanel as close as possible to the kitchen.

at the service panel and tests to be sure the

power is off.

244 1 INSTALLING A SUBPANEL

18 in-

I
I

kitchens have a lot of appliances. Locate the

When adding a subpanel to an existing
system, an electrician first shuts off power

I
I
Ii

~_J

30 in.

__. -..
361n.

Any panel-whether a main

or a subpanel-must have
sufficient clearance around it.
NEe minimums require 78 in.
of headroom, 36 in. free space
in front of the panel, and 30 in.
across the face of the pane l.
The panel should be installed
at a comfortable height. meaning that no breaker handle
may be higher than 72 in.
The area must also be dry
and easily accessed. Do not
install a subpanel near a bathroom or near flammable materials. If you install a subpanel
in a common area between
living spaces and an attached
garage, wrap the panel enclosure with two layers of 5/ s in.
drywall on all sides. However,
if you place the panel in a dry
interior wall you can install a
standard two-lug panel, whose
141;2 in. width fits neatly between two studs spaced 16 in.
on-center.

INSTALLING A SUBPANEL

I 245

GLOSSARY
AC Armored cable. Also, Alternating curren t.
ACCESSIBLE Not permanently concealed by
the structure or finishes. Able to be accessed
withou t damaging the building.

AMPACITY (AMPS) The amoun t of curren t a

circuit or conductor can safely carry (conduct).
Measured in amperes (amps).
AMPS The measure of t he volume of elec trons
flowinq throuqh a system (current).
ARC FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTER (AFCI)
A circuit breaker desiqned to de-enerqize a circuit
within a period of time if it senses arcing. An arc
is a spark between conductors or connections.

BONDING JUMPER (MAIN ) Conductor connec t inq the neutral conductor to the grounding
electrode conductor in a service panel.

CABLE An assembly of several conductors .

Most often re fers to plastic- or metal -shea t hed
cable that contains several individual wires.
CIRCUIT (BRANCH ) Circui t oriqinatinq at a
circuit breaker or fuse in an electrical pane l and
feedinq utilization equipment (Iiqhts, switches,
receptacles, appliances).

CIRCUIT BREAKER A device intended to deenergize a circuit if current exceeds specified

parameters.
CONDULET A condui t body with a cover designed to act as a pullinq point in a conduit run ,
to chanqe conduit direc t ion, or as an intersec ting pOint of multiple conduit runs.

CONDUCTOR Technically, anythinq tha t con -

GROUNDING CONDUCTOR A wire in an electrical system designed to bond metal parts of

the electrical system to the ea rt h (ground).
GROUNDING ELECTRODE CONDUCTOR
A wire of a gauqe determined by the ampacity
of a service panel that connects the service
panel (and qround bus) to a qroundinq elect rode
(ground rod or equivalent).

GROUND FAULT A fault situation in which

an energized conduc tor or piece of equipment
comes in contact with qrounded metal par t s.
GROUND FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTER
(GFCI) A specia l recep tacle or circuit breaker
intended to protect people by de-energizing a
circuit within a specific period of time if current
to qround exceeds specified parameters.

GROUND SCREW A green colored screw used

to connect qround conductors to boxes and
devices .

LISTED Equipment and materia ls included on a

lis t published by an orqanization , acceptable to
the authority havinq jurisdiction, tha t sta tes that
the equipment or materials meet specific design
criteria or are suitable for the use intended.
Most commonly Ul (Underwriter's l aboratory)
listed.
LOCATION, DAMP Protected from weather
and not subject to satu ration (under eves, canopies, etc.)
LOCATION , DRY Not subject to moistu re (interior, protected from weather).

ducts electricity. Most often, it denotes a wi re.

LOCATION , WET Underqround : exposed to

weather; subject to satura t ion.

CURRENT The flow of electrons in a system.

MAIN CIRCUIT BREAKER A large ampacity

Current is measured in amperes (amps). There

are two types of curren t: DC (direct current) and
AC (alternating curren t). Typically AC is found in
homes and bulldinqs.

ci rcuit breaker that protects and acts as a means

to de-energize a service panel or subpanel.

ENERGIZED Live . The presence of voltage in a

circuit or conductor.
FEEDER A large ampacity circuit supplying a
service panel , subpanel, or other high current
piece of equipment.

FIXTURE A liqh t fix tu re (table la mp, sconce,

chandelier, recessed can, etc.)

FUSE BOX A metal box designed to house

fuses installed for circuit protection.

GROUND A connection to earth (the ground).

To make such a connection.
GROUND BUSS A piece of metal designed to
connect mul tiple wires to a qroundinq elec t rode
conductor.

MC Metal clad cable.

NEUTRAL The neutra l or grounded conduc tor
(not qround conductor) is the return pat h for
current in an electrical system; designated by a
white or liqht qray color. The neutral is bonded
to qround at t he service panel.
NEUTRAL BUS A piece of metal desiq ned to
connect multiple wires to t he neutral conductor.
OHMS The measure of resistance to the flow of

RECEPTACLE Device designed for the connect ion of a pluq .

ROt.1EX Type of NM cab le, sheathed with nonmetallic material.

SERVICE PANEL (MAIN PANEL) The primary electrical panel loca ted immediately aft er the
meter socket and housinq the main circuit breaker or main fuses and/o r other devices desiqned
to de-enerqize and protect circuits.

SERVICE DROP Conductors from the utility

pole to the point of connection (weather head).
SERVICE-ENTRANCE CONDUCTORS
(OVERHEAD) Conductors betwee n the point
of connec t ion (meter lugs) and a point outside
(wea t her head) connected to t he service drop.

SERVICE- ENTRANCE CONDUCTORS

(UNDERGROUND) The conductors between
t he point of connection (meter socket) and t he
utility service lateral.

SCREW SHELL The metal conductive in terior

body of a liqht socket or fuse holder wi t h larqe
t hreads (or ridqes) that allow a bulb or fuse to be
screwed in .
SPLICES The point at which t wo wires or conductors are joined or connected together. For
branch circuits, splices are commonly made wi t h
pressu re connectors (wire nuts).
SUBPANEL An electrical panel that is supplied
from a service panel and is installed either to
provide additio nal circui t breakers or to dist ribu te branch circuits at a distance from the
service panel.

SWITCH A device that opens and closes a circuit. controlling the operation of a light fixture,
fan, other equipment, or appliances.
VOLTAGE, NOMINAL ( VOLTS) A value
assiqned to a circuit or system to desiqnate its
class . Modern single family residences in the
U.S. typically have 120/240V sys tems.
VOLTAGE TO GROUND (VOLTS) The difference in potential (voltaqe) between a sinqle
enerqized conductor and qround (neutral or
equipment ground).
WATERTIGHT Enclosures bu ilt to prevent the
intrusion of moisture .

electrons (current).

WATTAGE (WATTS) A measure of Power con-

OVERLOAD A situa t ion in which the current

sumed .

flowinq throuqh a circuit or circuit conductor

exceeds the safe operating ampacity of the conductor.

WEATHERPROOf Equipment or enclosures

built so that weather will not interfere with t heir
operation.

1 247

INDEX
retrofitting , 195, 197

A
AFC ls (arc-fault circuit interrupters), 164, 243
Aluminum wiring , 14 , 30, 160
Amps, vo lts, and watts , 6, 161
Analyzers, 21 , 24
Appliances, 210-21
baseboard heaters, 220
basics of, 212-13
common requ irements, 212
dishwashers, 215
garbage disposers, 214-15
laundry setups, 218-20
oven Qutlets/connections,
216-18
small, circuits, 162, 165
unfinished cords
(preparing),213
water heaters, 221
Arcing, 14, 15

surface, metal, 208-09

symbols for, 168
wall,27,186
Building codes, 163-64
boxes, 163, 183
cable, 163, 183
checking, 3, 4, 165, 224
circuit breakers, 183
circuit wiring, 163
common requirements. 163
general-use circuit
requirements, 164
grounding, 163, 183
homeowner work allowed?,
165
outdoor wiring, 224
receptacles, 27, 164
rough-in, 183
wire connections, 163, 183

B
Back-wired devices, 40, 42
Baseboard heaters, 220
Bathroom circuitS/lighting,
162,165
Bathroom fans, 141-47

Boxes
capacity of, 25
ceiling, 85, 99, 187, 195

for ceiling fans, 152-53

choosing, 25-26

code requ irements, 163, 183

connectors, clamps and
clips, 32
covering all connections,
54, 163
cut-in, 26
cutting holes for, 194
fill worksheet. 25
grounding, 163
installing, 27, 85, 99, 15253, 186-87, 194-95
locating, 27, 47, 184, 185,
186-87
metal vs. plastic, 25-26
mounting between joists,
29,182
removing knockouts, 28

Cable rippers, 21, 22, 35

Cables. See also Multimedia

AC, installing, 203
armored, stripping, 22
code requirement s, 163, 183
connectors, 32, 182, 202
corner feeds, 190
defined ,241
drilling for, 188
evaluating condition of,
14-15, 160
fishing, 191-93, 207, 228,
229
flexible metal (installing),
202
home run, marking , 189
low-voltage. See Lowvoltage (La Va or LV)
fixtures
MC, installing, 204
metal,202-04
nail plates protecting, 189,
197
ordering, 183
pulling, 189, 197
reading codes on, 31
securing to framing, 33, 189

service panel attachment. 8

standoffs/clips for, 33, 189
stapling, 33, 189
stripping, 34-35

supporting, requirements,
183
12/3,12/2, 14/3, and 14/2,
30,31
types of, 30, 31
from utility service, 10, 11,
161,239
Ceiling fans, 151-55 , 168
Chandeliers, 75-77. 85-87
Circuit breakers. See also Service panels
adding, 242-43
AFCI, 164, 243
amp ratings , 8
code requirements, 183
cutting power at. 16
double-pole, 243
GFCI,243
lockouts, 179, 238
repeated tripping of, 161
types of, 243
wire gauges matching size
of, 15
Circuits
adding, 162
bathroom and kitchen , 162,
165
capacities, 161
code requirements, 163, 164
dedicated, 162, 165, 212, 219
designated,219
load calculation , 162
overloaded, 161
requirements by room , 165
wiring requirements, 163
Clamps and clips, 32, 182
Conductors, 240, 241
Conduit. 30, 31, 202, 205-09,
218-19,227,231,232
Connectors, cable, 32, 182 , 202
Connectors, wire, 36, 37, 182.
See also Clamps and
clips
Connectors/jacks, multimedia,
122, 133-37
Continuity testers, 24

Cordless power tools, 21, 23

Current, defined, 6
Cut-in boxes, 26
Cutters and pliers, 21, 22

D
Dedicated circuits , 162, 165,
212,219
Designated circuits , 219
Diagonal pliers, 21, 22
Dishwashers, 215
Doorbells, 110-15
Dri ll bits, 23, 181
Drill extension, 181
Dri ll ing for cable, 188
Dril ls, 23, 180, 181
Drywall saws, 22
Dust masks, 7, 180

E
Elect rical notation (systems),
168
Electrical systems. See also
Planning new work;
Rough-in wiring
components , illustrated,
10-11 (see also specific
components)
inspecting/evaluating, 14-15,
158-62
service drops/entrances, 10,
11 , 161,239
sizing of, 161-62
Electricity, understanding, 6

F
Fans, 138-55
bathroom, 141-47

integral junction boxes in,

140
range hoods, 148-50
roof vents for, 143-44
wiring schematics, 140
Feeds, defined, 241
Fi sh tape, 21, 22, 181
Fishi ng cable, 191-93 , 207, 228,
229

Floor plan, developing, 165-67

Fluorescent bulbs, 69

Fluorescent fixtures. 92-93

Furnace transformers. 118-19
Fuse boxes, 9, 16, 158-59,
161-62

Fuses
amp rating s, 8
blown, 9, 161
"pennying," 159
types of, 9

K
Kitchen circuits/lighting, 162,
164, 165. See also
Lighting
Knob-and-tube wiring, 30, 160

L
Lamps, 68, 70-74

cleaning and rewiring,

(ground-fault circuit
interrupters)
basics of, 12-13, 15

cable and conduit systems,

209

code requirements, 163, 183

equipment, 212
se rvice panels, 12-13, 15, 159,
163
ungrounded outlets, 47, 160

H
Halogen bulbs, 69, 84
Hamm ers. 22
Hand tools, 21, 22, 180
Hi ckey, defined, 68
Holes, cuttin g, 180-81, 194, 195

Lasers, 180, 184, 185

Laundry setups, 218-20
Leads, defined, 68
Levels, 22, 180
Light box, defined, 68. See

twisted wires, 123

Multimeters,24

mounting box for, 99

National Electric Code (NEC),

3,163
Needle-nose pliers, 21. 22

outdoor path lights, 233-34

Neon voltage testers, 17, 24

cables, 96-97
standoffs, 95-96, 104

Lamp s; Low-voltage

general, 164
installing bulbs, 84
kitchen, 164, 165

124-25
signal strength, 122
str ipping cab le, 123

installing monorail track

sc hematics, 95, 103

(Lo Vo or LV) fixtures'

fawlight combinations. 155

132

runn ing and tensioning

Lighting, 66-107. See also

chandeliers, 75-77, 85-87

127-32

ou tlets, locating/installing,

system, 95-102
installing light fixtures, 107
lighting, 103-07

also Boxes

cei ling fixture elements. 78

phone lines and jacks,

133

media distribution panels,

installing cable lighting

tinning wires for. 73

bathroom, 165
bu lb types, 69
ceiling box for, 85, 99

Load ratings, 41
Low-voltage (Lo Vo or LV)
fixtures, 68, 94-107
attaching feed rods and
canopies, 95, 98, 101

testing, 70-71

Outdoor wiring

in stallin g cable connectors,

fixtures, 102

70-73
replacing plugs, 74

safety precaution. 71

Garbage disposers, 214-15

GFCI breakers, 243
GFCls (ground-faul t circuit interrupters), 10, 13, 40,
47, 165, 171. 226
Glossary, 248
Grounding. See also GFeis

wiring fixtures, 68 (see

also Switches, wiring;
specific fixture type)
Line vo ltage, defined, 68
Lineman's pliers, 21, 22
Load calculation, 162

systems overview, 94
transformers, 68, 95, 99100,105, 115,118 -19

Low-voltage controls, 108-19

doorbel ls, 110-15

furnace transformers,
118-19
thermostats, 116-17

Lumen s, defined, 68

Nipple, defined, 68

Notati on, electrical, 168

Nut-driver bits, 180, 181

o
Ohms, defined, 6

Omnidirectional flare, defined,

68
Outdoor wiring, 222-35

adding receptacles, 229

choosing lights, 225
getting power, 224
holiday lights, 229
low-vo lta ge path lights,
233-34

load calculation, 162

mounting fixtures, 78-79
porcelain fixtures

Main breaker, 8-9

Media distribution panels,

(i nstalling),80 -81
recessed, 88-91, 199

Meter-main combos, 9

235
outlet s, 230
planning, 224

Meters, 10, 11

power to outbuilding,

removing fixtures, 82
safety precaution s, 71, 81,

Motion detector, wiring, 63

Incandescent bulbs, 69

82
sample plan, 168-69

Inductance testers, 18-19, 21,

24,43
Inspectio ns, 3, 167, 178-79

In spectors, reviewing plan s,

166,167

symbols for fi xtures, 168

task,164
terms, 68

undercabinet fluorescent.
92-93

wall sconces, 82-84

127-32

Motion-sensor lights, 225, 235

Multimedia, 120-37
cable, 122-23

connecting cables at panel,

131

connec tors and jacks, 122,

133-37

faceplate co nnecti ons and

optio ns, 136-37

motion-sensor lights, 225,

231-32

safety precautions, 224

tapping into existing outlet.
228-29
too ls and materials, 226-27

weatherproof covers,
226-27
Outlet s. See Receptacles

Oven outlets/connections,
216-18

1 249

p
Phone lines and jacks, 124-25
Pilot light switches, 62
Planning new work, 156-75.
See also Building

codes
adding outlets and circuits,
162
assessing wiring condition,
160
developing floor plan,
165-67
electrical notation
(sym bols) for, 168
electrical system overview,
10-11
getting feedback, 166
inspecting fuse box/breaker
panel,158-59
load ca lculation , 162
materials lists, 166, 167
on-site inspections, 167
pro's take on rewiring, 160
remod eling kitchen s, 162
requirements by room, 165
reviewi ng plans with
inspector, 166, 167
sample plans (Iighting/
switches, and power),
168-69
sizing syst em, 161-62
wirin g portfolio, 170-75
(see also Receptacles,
wiring; Switches,
wiring)
Pliers and strippers, 21. 22
Plug-in circuit analyzers, 21, 24
Plumb laser, 184
Polarized fixtu res , 74
Polarized receptacles, 41, 47
Power, defined, 6
Powe r tools, 23, 180-81
Primary wires, defined, 68

R
Range hoods, 148-50
Receptacles, 38, 40-49
adding, 162, 229

250

amp rating s, 40-41

back-wired, 40, 42
choosing, 40-41
circuit capacities, 161
code requirements, 164
GFCls, 10, 13, 40, 47, 165, 171,
226
grounding, 15, 47, 160, 163
load calculation, 162
locating, 27, 47, 184, 185,
186
making f lush to drywall, 47
matching load ratings, 41
neutral wires attached to,
43
for 120/240 ra nge, 175
ou tdoor, 230
polarized, 41, 47

spacers (caterpillars)
building up, 47
surface metal boxes for,
208-09
symbols for, 168
testing, 15, 17-19, 43
three-prong, 10
two-slot ungrounded, 15,
47, 160
Receptacles, wiring, 198
cont rolled by switch, 174-75
duplex receptacles, 44-46,
170-71,174-75
at end of circ uit, 144, 170
feeding wi res through
receptacle, 144, 170
ganged receptacles, 171
GFCls, 47, 48, 171
in midcircuit. 144, 170
portfolio of opti ons, 170-71,
174-75
split-tab receptacles, 49,
174-75,215
sWitch/receptacle combo,
62
Recessed lighting, 88-91, 199
Reciprocating saws, 23
Roof vents, 143-44
Rotary cutters, 23
Rough-in wiring, 176-209
box locat ion s, 184, 185,
186-87

code requirements, 183 (see

also Building codes)
conduit systems, 205-09
corner cable runs, 190
creating wiring tren ch, 196
cutting box holes, 194, 195
drilling for cable, 188
fishing cable, 191-93, 207
inspection, 178-79
installing boxes, 186-87
laying out job, 184-88
materials for. 182-83
metal cable, 202-04
ordering materials, 183
outlet box, 198
pulling cable, 189, 197
recessed light can, 199
retrofitting boxes, 195, 197
starting and organizing, 178
switc h boxes, 200-201
tools for, 180-81
Running th read, defined, 68

5
Safety. See also Grounding
avoiding shocks, 12
evaluating system, 14-15,
158-62
gear,7,180
general guidel ines, 7
lighting fixtures, 71. 81, 82
respecting power, ii, 4, 7
service panels, 7, 179, 238
wiring in orderly way, 45
Safety glasses, 7
Saws, 22, 23, 181
Sconces, 82-84
Screwdrivers, 21. 22, 180
Secondary wires, defined, 68
Service conductors, 10, 11
Service drops/entrances, 10, 11,
161,239
Service panels, 8-9, 236- 45.
See also Circuit breakers
cable attachments, 8
components, illustrated, 8,
9,240
cutting power at, 16

grounding, 12-13, 15, 159, 163

how it fits into system, 11
inspecting/evaluating, 14-15,
158-59
internal workings, 8-9
key terms, 241
main breaker, 8-9
meter-main combos, 9
minimum amps for, 14
safety precautions, 7, 179,
238
sizing, 161-62, 240-41
subpanels, 9, 236, 238-41.
244-45
understanding, 238-39
7-in-l tool, 22
Soldering wires, 73
Solenoid voltage testers, 24
Source (s upply) wires, 68
Spli cing wi res, 37, 64, 180, 183
Staples, 33, 189
Stepladders, 180
Strippers and pliers, 21. 22
Stripping cable, 34-35, 123
Stripping wires, 37
Subpanels, 9, 236, 238-41,
244-45
Switches, 38, 40-43, 50-65
back-wired, 40, 42
choosing, 40-41
code requirements, 164
convertible, 55
dimmer, 40, 56-57
double, 63
four-way, 51, 61
locating, 184, 185, 186
matching load ratings, 41
motion detector, 63
neutral wires attached to,
43
pilot li ght, 62
replacing (Single-pole),
54-55
roughing in (three-way), 58
sample plan, 168-69
single-po le, 50, 52-55
specialty, 40, 56-57, 63
symbols for, 168

testing, 43, 50-51, 52

three-way, 51. 58-60, 172-74
timer, 64-65
Switches, wiring, 200-201
with back-fed wi r ing, 53,
60, 172
controlling receptacles,
174-75
double switches, 63
wit h fixture at end of cable
run, 172
four-way, 61
ganged switches, 172, 201
motion detector, 63
pilot light, 62
portfolio of opt ions, 172-75
sing le-pole, 52-53, 200
slide dimmers, 56-57
switch/receptacle combo,
62
three-way, 59-60,172-74
timers, 64-65
Symbols, common, 168

T
Ta pe measures, 22, 180
Terms, 6, 68, 241. See also
Glossary
Testing
receptacles, 15, 17-19,43
sw itches, 43, 50-51, 52
testers, 50
testers for. 21, 24
Thermostats, 116-17
Timer switches, 64-65
Tinning wires, 73
TOOl belts, 22, 181
Tools, 20-25, 180-81, 226. See
also specific too ls
Tran sformers, 68, 95, 99-100,
105, 115, 118-19

V
Volts, amps, and watts, 6, 161

w
Water heaters, 221
Watts, vo lt s, and amps, 6 , 161
Wire
aluminum, 14, 30, 160
choosing, 36
defined,241
splicing, 37
strippers/crimpers,21
stripping, 37
types of, 36
Wire connector driver, 180
Wi re connectors, 36, 37
Wi re reels. 180. 181
Wi rin g. See also Receptacles,
wiring; Switches, wiring; specific compo'
nents
assessing condition of, 160
circuit, types of, 30
code requ irements, 163
new work. See Planning new
work; Rough-in wiring
safety precaution, 45
Wiring trench, 196

U
Undercabinet fi xtures, 92-93
Utility knife, 21, 34

I 251

TABLE

OF

CONTENTS

UNDERSTANDING ELECTRICITY
TOOLS, MATERIALS, AND TECHNIQUES
RECEPTACLES AND SWITCHES

LIGHTING
REPAIRING LOW-VOLTAGE CONTROLS
MULTI-MEDIA
FANS
PLANNING
ROUGH-IN
APPLIANCES
OUTDOOR WIRING
PANELS AND SUBPANELS

Michael Litchfield is best known as the author of

the home renova t ion bible, Renovation: A Complete
Guide (Taunton, 2005).
Michael McAlister is a lice nsed electrician wo rking
in Ber keley, CA .
The Taunton Press also pub lishes Fine Homebuilding and
fin eho mebu il dinq.co m, where today's bu ilde rs and architects
share what they know abo ut bui lding and remode ling.

Look for other Taunton Press books wherever books are sold or
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