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Tourist Sites
NickWebb
Nova Scotia School ofArtand Design
more colonial days when being Britishwas
enough. But on theChannel ferry,itdid not
The paper commences witha descriptionof the
seem tomatter whether Iwas comparing
to attract tourists.
author's own city's attempts
the Britishwith French, German, Dutch, or
The author offers a complex view of the
Italians?as a nation, we were not cool.
between
local
businesses,
relationships
While Iwore a pair of National Health
and
tourists.
governments,
ordinary citizens,
glasses and sported porcelain white knees,
an
in
his
historical
framework,
analysis
Situating
tanned continentals pushed their sun
The paper
he develops a psychologyof tourism.
glasses up onto their upper foreheads
concludes with a list of practical classroom
where, inexplicably, they stayed. Gold
activities that focus student attentionon the
of
tourism.
glinted fromwrists, necks, and teeth;white
complexity
trousers showed that ifyou were foreign,
The paper begins by suggesting the
dirtwould ignore you. They had cool suit
cases, cool cars; they didn't get seasick;
possibility of "reading" tourist environ
ments. Itgoes on to provide a historical
theywere ... perfect from the "genes" on
context fortourism togetherwith some con
up.
As a young man in 1973,1 tookmy first
temporary observations. Itconcludes by
tripto theUnited States. Everyone was big
making suggestions forteaching contexts.
As a child Iwas luckyenough to visit
ger than I. In6 weeks, Idid 11,000 miles
on Greyhound buses and have never taken
continental Europe every summer, and the
a bus since. Oklahoma City blended with
cross-Channel ferrybecame forme a sym
bol of impendingstrangeness. Growing up
Amarillo and Kansas with Nashville. Dazed
I
most of the time, I lost20 pounds. My hair
inpre-tunnel England, was
acutely aware
of our British isolation. But I not only rec
grew and Ialmost got a tan. I learned that
I
I talked funny,and of the cultural impor
social
and
cultural
differences,
ognized
was jealous of them; after all, the English
tance of donuts. I returned changed.
never sat outside fora cafe lunch.Conti
More recent trips to Asia and Africa
added experience, not just of cultural dif
nental streets smelled of cigars, of exotic
ference but also of cultural disorientation.
cigarettes, of fresh bread, and of coffee
But cultural vertigo is as enabling as it is
which the English had still not learned to
make. Signage was testing, languages fast
disabling, since we never voluntarily
and mysterious. Shops were riveting,
change our most basic cultural coordi
menus bewildering. But strange was good.
nates. Dislocating ourselves isone way of
The generalized jealousy that perme
place to reflect
achieving a distance?a
from.Otherness becomes apparent only
ated my sense of greener grass found spe
cific focus in the world of fashion?not in
when we are visitors. I haven't stopped
the extremes of haute couture but in the
reflectingon my identity. Indeed, being a
transplant, one who has spent as much of
everyday. UntilCarnaby Street discovered
and the United
itcould sell Union Jack underwear, theBrits
my adult life inCanada
were a dowdy bunch and I knew iteven
States as inthe United Kingdom, compari
sons are a fact of life.Being an alien, an
then. Khaki shorts and pumps reeked of
Abstract
64
thrill
at Grampy's knees. Maybe we all have
a duty to bear witness to the lives of oth
ers, and cannot escape a more or less ethi
cal commitment to documenting experi
ence. Maybe our efforts are to be more
cynically interpreted as colonization
throughphotography (Sontag, 1973), since
today everything exists to end ina photo
graph (1979). Perhaps holiday snaps ex
hibita combination of partial or stereotypi
cal aesthetic sensitivities thatnevertheless
represent a genuine commitment todo jus
tice to extraordinary experience. Perhaps
the poses, props, and proclivityforthe pic
turesque are ways we signal difference.
Our commerce with touristsouvenirs is
no less interesting.These souvenirs may
be chosen quickly?often bus tours are
given onlyminutes to "symbolize" theirex
I learned at a gift shop in
periences.
Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia, that a large
proportion of tourists on a particular bus
may purchase the same item.This sug
gests that the function of souvenirs as
memory triggersmay be more important
thanany aesthetic qualities theymay have.
Perhaps, like snapshots, they are instru
mental inmarking disruptions in the pat
terns of our working lives. But these par
ticular visual residues of tourism are not
my focus. My primary interest is inthe resi
dues of place: how we and our environ
ments respond to the touristgaze, and in
whether we are instigatorsor victims. Iam
interested inwhat makes a sight a site.
Out of sites, out of mind: A case study
As travel and tourism have increased, so
has the realization by municipalities that
financial advantages accrue to those who
take theirguests seriously: "A tourist isas
valuable as a bale of cotton and twice as
easy to pick" (anon, in Rosenow and
Pulcipher, 1980, p. 183). But these munici
palities also recognize that "it is possible
that images ... may have as much to do
with an area's tourism development suc
cess as the more tangible recreation and
tourism resources" (Hunt, inRosenow and
Pulcipher, 1980, p. 179) and that
TouristSites
65
...
People
develop
images which are an
individual's representation
of reality. The
significance of this process of image con
struction is that people base decisions and
by the
marketing
1995, p. 223)
Civic change reflects not necessarily
how we are, but how we would have oth
ers see us. Villages, towns, and cities vie
to become magazined destinations. The
search for regional personality begins so
that we can stop somewhere becoming
anywhere. The civic residue is physical
and itseffects are both social and psycho
logical.
It is often easier to draw conclusions
about our identityfromour ambitions to
ward other places than it is to articulate
exactly how we relate to, and are molded
by,our own place. Perhaps we can achieve
some objective insightonly when, forex
ample, visitors arrive to see our town or
city.Whereas we are generally able to de
velop a hierarchy of sights and sites for
theirconsumption, our choices may say as
much
about
who
we
are
as
about
our envi
immigrants to Canada
Economics
The major
industries of Halifax
tainer traffic, Christmas
trees,
and tourism.
blueberries,
are
con
gypsum,
Britishties
HalifaxCitadel?Sentry wears a British
and theChanging of theGuard
uniform,
occurs
just as
in London
in itsair-conditioning
sys
tem
1917 Biggest
non-nuclear
explosion
in the
world
Oldest
inCanada
House
inNorth America
The firstlawschool
The tallestgranitespire inNorthAmerica
The
second-deepest
1752
harbor
first newspaper
in the world
inCanada
1755 first
post office inCanada
Institute of Oceanography?one
intheworld
of top 3
scheduled
service
Seven
most expensive
city ad
Young St.?the
row -33 millionaires
dress?millionaire's
on Titanic
66
Pier 21 processed
Shipyards recently
purchased by Irving?
one of thewealthiest families inNorth
America
Culture
Halifax
is home
to the Maritime
museum
which includesTitanicmemorabilia
NickWebb
Minorities
Sidewalk
material
Two
exposed
aggregate,
Jewish
synagogues
Street lights,threedifferent
nauticalde
curses
three Mic-Mac
prior to the
the black
residents were
relo
cated
Miscellaneous
Canada
of which
The
none
a sports
open
Halifax
Commons,
reproduction
Signage
Signposts carved wood store signs with
gilt, visitor map and interpretation boards,
to
bulletin boards,
"Welcome
Heritage
Halifax" signs
Landscaping
Concrete planters,mulched beds edged
with8x8 treatedlumber,
saplings,shrubs,
strategic treated lumber boardwalk
raised
benches,
lumber "stages"
Monuments
Two marble war memorials,
bronze sailor,
sculpture, marble relief from people
wave
original warehouse
Summary
These
Summit
Decor
Ship's
anchors,
invari
names
Business
Back-In-Time
Photos
Table
Captain's
The HarborLook-Off
Murphy'sCompany Store
Cable Wharf
Sunnyside
on theWaterfront
The Bounty
Seaside Peddler
The LowerDeck
Salty's
The Waterfront Warehouse
Attractions
rides
bus city tours
TouristSites
67
Summary
Inmy city,both Halifax's government and
commercial sector target the historicityof
the city: itsseafaring past; its role in the
evolution of Canada,
itsconnection to the
UK, particularlyScotland, and itsseparate
ness from the United States. The procla
mations of theTown Crier reinforce these
themes and reflectwhat the city ought to
be, given selective parts of itshistory.The
newly extended boardwalk has "cleaned
up" thewaterfront, but some bemoan the
replacement of the fishmarket with the
Nova Scotia Crystal company (actually a
reincarnation ofWaterford Crystal in Ire
land), arguing that ithas stripped the area
of itsonly remaining "original" business.
The children's playground, constructed to
resemble a trawler, is popular and the
treated lumber "stages" that provide ven
ues forsummer theatre and buskers send
a clear message thatHalifax welcomes the
arts. Skateboarders glide, albeit illegally,
up and down The Wave sculpture. Tour
ists flock to take rides on culturally incon
gruent rickshaws, and concession stand
titles boast connections toMaritime life.
But lifehas returned to thewaterfront;
lifethat iscleaner and somehow less omi
nous than thedark shadows of the rum-run
ners' warehouses. Noone lurksnow; every
one takes a whale-watching trip.Pier 21
smoothly plays itsdouble role as dock and
museum. Cruise ships passengers
are
an
kilted
and
array of
greeted by
bagpipers
market stalls selling city logos and more or
less artisanal wares. More inquisitivevisi
torsdiscover thedesigner-industrial spaces
of the Chrysler Welcome Center and the
"highly interactive"holographic exhibits of
immigrantsand refugees arriving by ship
to a fledglingCanada. The gaping ware
house spaces overlooking Georges Island
are now escalatored and comfortably dis
tanced and framed by expensive vista win
dows. The Multi-Cultural Gallery features
differentcultures every twoweeks?during
my visit, I learnmore about Tibet.
It is hard not to feel ambivalent about
the new Halifax. It is clean; there are toi
68
public
art, on
street
furniture
NickWebb
class
"cheap".
par
gap
magnificent.
We
are
(Byron,
1817,
inBuzzard)
inour
island, wherever we
from the people
separated
always
midst of whom we are.
inBuzzard)
(Thackeray,
...
go
in the
1851,
Falls.
vulgar.
abroad]?vulgar,
vulgar,
ignorance?their
stingy,
grudging,
defiant, attitude
thing European?their
of all things to some
towards every
reference
perpetual
American
standard
orprecedentwhichexistsonly intheir
own
On the other
unscrupulous
windbag...
hand, we seem a people of character, we
seem to have energy, capacity and intel
I
stuff in ample measure.
What
pointed at as our vices are the ele
ments of the modern man with culture left
lectual
have
out.
and
incredible
lack
13 Oct.
1869,
inBuzzard)
69
munity levels.
It is unlikely that the tourist-travelerdis
tinction is any easier to draw convincingly
now than itwas in the 19th century. Buz
zard (1993) notes theetymological connec
tionof travelwith travail,and notes the "gritty
endurance" of the traveler. Incontrast, the
tourist is "the cautious, pampered unitof a
leisure industry"(p. 2). Most of us balk at
being called a tourist,traveler isdoubtless
themore flatteringappellation. Imay be a
spiritual traveler and claim, albeit prosai
cally, thatmy journey ismore importantthan
my destination. Imay be a more physical
traveler and consider myself as a cultural
voyageur rather than a cultural voyeur. As
a traveler, Iam revered forthe stories Ihave
to tell?after all, you had to be there and I
was. Thus itis thatold people and travelers
may lieby authority.
With guidebook inhand (Buzzard, 1993,
Chapter 3), I am a tourist. I am there to
cover ground, not to dig in it,and to tell
others that Imade it. Idrove fromParis to
70
journeys,
the undiscovered,
Sights intosites
Hough (1990) suggests that "tourism has
the potential to be a major force inthe pro
tection and maintenance of regional char
acter" (p.149), but that often airlines and
multinational corporations decide where
tourismwill achieve criticalmass. He also
points to the sheer scale of potential influ
ence, citing, forexample, that in 1973, 60
million people visited the French Riviera?
one thirdof all internationaltourists forthat
in
90% of foreign exchange
year?and
Barbados comes from tourism (p. 151).
Hough seeks to demonstrate the contra
NickWebb
Travelers
cient
Yemen.
They
can make
a round of sights
force
... a
corrosive
force
severely
malign
... the
... a new
form of colonialism
Toward a psychology
of tourism
71
and
governments
act
as
surro
as
the Sheraton
Hotel,
canni
Scotia
to es
does
is that:
not come
the postmodern
to Nova
sense
of unreality,
everywhere
NickWebb
our classrooms.
Conclusions
The continued growth of tourism is inevi
table. The fact that only 7% of U.S. citi
zens had passports in 1990 (Urry,1990, p.
51), and the rapid development of such
countries as China, suggest that traditional
touristdestinations likethe French Riviera
and theCaribbean will be even shorter on
capacity and patience, and thatmany new
TouristSites
73
Practice
"Canada's
Ocean
Playground."
Re
NickWebb
2.
3.
4.
5.
75
Trans.).
76
R.
The heritage
industry. Lon
landscape.
Newhaven:
Yale
University
coun
Lowenthal,D. (1985). The past isa foreign
Press.
try.
Cambridge:Cambridge University
McKay, I. (1988, Summer). Twilightat Peggy's
a genealogy
Toward
Cove:
of maritimicity.
Border/Lines,
pp. 29-36.
(a)
I. (1988). Among
the fisherfolk: J.F.B.
McKay,
Livesay and the invention of Peggy's Cove.
Page,
S.
(1995).
Urban
Routledge.
J. and Pulsipher,
Rosenow,
Tourism.
London.
G.
Tourism:
(1980).
Press.
New
Sontag, S. (1973,November).Photography.
York Review
Sontag,
S.
of Books,
(1979).
Harmondsworth,
18, pp.59-63.
On
UK: Penguin.
photography.
Narrativesof the
Stewart,S. (1993).On longing:
the souvenir,
the gigantic,
miniature,
lection. London: Duke University.
Turner, L., and Ash, J. (1976). The golden
International
tourism and
the col
hordes:
the pleasure
periph
ery. New York: St Martin's Press.
The tourist gaze:
and
Leisure
Urry, J. (1990).
travel in contemporary
societies.
London:
Sage.
Van Den Abbeele,
G. (1980, December).
Sight
seers: The tourist as theorist (review of The
A new theory
Tourist:
of theleisureclass, Dean
MacCannell).
Diacritics,
pp.2-14.
G.
Tourism:
Shaw,
(1988).
Candyfloss
industry or job creator. Town Plan
ning Review, 59. pp.81-103.
Zurick, D (1995). Errant journeys. Austin, TX:
Williams,
A.,
University
and
of Texas
Press.
NickWebb
References
Barthes,
Buzzard,
(1973).
Frogmore:
Mythologies.
Paladin
(A. Lavers,
NickWebb