Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Introduction
Hit a metal disc with a stickit makes a sound, no question. The question is
What kind of sound?
The qualities of the sound are determined by the variables involved, and
these may be far more than meets the eye. This is part of the mystery of
cymbals. They seem so simple, a single piece of metal with no moving parts.
But the myriad of different characteristics they display is seemingly infinite.
To some degree we have managed to control many of these characteristics,
to bend and mold them to our liking, to tame them to meet our demands.
But there will always be a part of them that remains wild and untamedthat
eludes our every attempt for capture and control.
That's itCONTROL. It's all about control.
To work with bronze to make a good quality cymbal is to exert control over
as many characteristics as possible while maintaining ultimate respect and
recognition of those elements that cannot be controlled.
It is my personal belief that every cymbal is as individual as a fingerprint.
Each piece of (cast) metal has it's own identity and personality from birth.
Modern manufacturing seeks to circumvent this fact of nature by employing
methods of production in high volume cookie-cutter style in hope of
making large quantities of identical instruments. The factories have
developed a high degree of accuracy and control by eliminating some key
points, even resorting to the use of sheet metal that is rolled in huge
quantities. The metal is pure to the point of being sterileit has lost its
flavor and spice for the sake of mass production.
For the purposes of these articles I will focus mainly on cymbals made in the
old-fashioned way, from single castings of B20 bronze. There will be some
discussion of B8 sheet metal for comparison and to demonstrate a costeffective way to start out, but the emphasis will be on higher quality cast
cymbals. There will be a glimpse into the differences between making
cymbals from scratch (raw blanks) versus re-creating them by
modification of existing cymbals.
Many detailed aspects (such as age) will become evident and I will try to
explain the many differences involved in hearing things in the future as a
part of designing new sounds into cymbals. All of these processes will be
discussed in order of their application although it may be necessary to jump
back and forth a little at times. I will strive to be as concise and conclusive
as I can with each section, which may result in HUGE volumes of text in a
few key areas. To help condense things back down to scale, I will
intentionally limit the size of certain topics (such as metallurgy/foundry) for
which there is little practical use in our realm of basement and garage
shops. I honestly cannot pretend to profess about these areas myself any
more as it's been too many years since I've been involved and I'm sure that
technology has passed me by. I'm content to practice with my hands and
tools in the crafts of hammering and turning (lathing)this is where the
major focus will be.
I will do my best to describe the tools I use and the methods I used to obtain
them. Many are simply modified from basic tools that are readily available at
hardware stores and/or online catalog distributors. I will describe the
process of grinding hammers, anvils, and cutting tools and the pros and
cons of each. I will provide sources for parts whenever possible, although
the availability may vary by location for some readers. I will present the
basic theory behind lathes and turning, and provide some examples of my
work by including pictures where they will serve best.
As I go along, I will offer my thoughts in a candid fashion, to accompany the
main text, as a means of lightening the technical drudgery without going
off-topic. I do not expect everyone to agree with my point of viewI can
only hope to provoke more thoughts than arguments.
Do you hear what I hear?
Mike Skiba
1. Introduo
Bater um disco de metal com um pau ... faz um som, sem dvida. A
pergunta "Que tipo de som?"
As qualidades do som so determinadas pelas variveis envolvidas, e
estes podem ser muito mais do que aparenta. Isto parte do mistrio
dos pratos. Eles parecem muito simples, uma nica pea de metal,
sem partes mveis. Mas a infinidade de caractersticas diferentes que
mostrar aparentemente infinita. Em certa medida temos
conseguido controlar muitas dessas caractersticas, para dobrar e
mold-los ao nosso gosto, para "domar" as crianas para satisfazer as
nossas necessidades. Mas haver sempre uma parte deles que
permanece selvagem e indomvel ... que escapa nossa tentativa
para cada captura e controle.
isso a ... CONTROL. Est tudo sobre controle.
Para trabalhar com bronze para fazer um prato de boa qualidade
exercer o controle sobre como muitas caractersticas quanto possvel,
mantendo o respeito e reconhecimento final dos elementos que no
podem ser controlados.
minha convico pessoal que cada prato to individual como uma
impresso digital. Cada pedao de (cast) de metal tem a sua prpria
identidade e personalidade a partir do nascimento. manufatura
moderna visa contornar esse fato da natureza, empregando os
mtodos de produo em alto volume "cookie-cortador de estilo" na
esperana de fazer grandes quantidades de instrumentos idnticos.
As fbricas tm desenvolvido um alto grau de preciso e controle,
If you remove all of the cymbals from your drum set and stand them on
edge in order of descending size, you will almost certainly be able to detect
a range of color variation among them, from silvery-gray to greenish, from
golden-brown to orange/gold. If your set is composed of cymbals from
various manufacturers this "rainbow" effect may be that much more
obvious, due to the fact that each cymbal's metal was cooked in a different
way.
It is from this little (but very significant) truth that I've come to see each
As the metal is repeatedly sent through the rollers, the gap between them is
decreased to produce thinner (and wider) discs. The orientation of the disc is
intentionally changed for each successive pass in order to accomplish two
things.
The first is to get the metal grains to flow in opposing directions, a
"stitching" or "kneading" quality that is similar to the mixing of rolled bread
dough.
Herein lies the key difference between cast B20 and sheet metal B8
alloys.sheet metal is rolled in only one direction (the length of the sheet) as
it is formed. The extra strength and ductility of cast metal is not built into
sheets of "uni-rolled" B8 alloy. The musical complexity is less, requiring
much more intensive hammering and other processing to try to emulate
cast B20.
Secondly, to form the sheet in a thickness and shape that is as uniform as
possible, with minimal cracked edges. If the edges crack too much, the
cymbal will not be able to meet its intended diameter, resulting in excessive
waste. This is the flip side to B8, at least from a production standpoint.here
we are making individual small sheets at a much higher cost, although the
quality will be superior if control is maintained.
Our ingot has been rolled to a good sheet disc, without any defects at this
point. As it cools on a pile on the floor, we can already see by the heat
discoloration that it is unique among all the others. It will cool differently as
well because it is trapped in the center of the pile.it will require more time to
release its heat. Beneath it's crusty exterior of oxidation lies several layers
of musical "gold" or some other bright metallic hue that will be determined
by its specific properties as it cools and hardens again. We can't see it yet,
but the internal metal also differs from its close relatives in the same
production batch.the similarities are fading fast.
4) CUPPING The next step is cupping.this is where the cup (or bell) is
pressed into the center of the sheet. Here we must make a design choice for
the proper size and shape of the bell, based on our design goal for the
finished instrument.obviously, Flat Rides will skip this step. Again, the piece
must make a trip to the oven before it can be stressed to form a cup. The
sheets are brittle hard at this point and are prone to shatter like glass if
stressed. The metal will be softened by the heat and immediately pressed to
form the center bell and (usually) a mounting hole that is undersize. The
metal is thinned in the bell area as it is drawn upward to make the bell. This
is a magical moment in the making of the instrument.a huge list of variables
fights for precedence in a very short time. It all has to happen very fast
(while the heat holds the metal in a state of plasticity) but cannot be forced
too quickly. The metal has some memory (elasticity) that is returning as the
heat fades away. The metal grains are forced to move and realign in a
thinner configuration.they do their best to "hold onto" their closest
neighbors in a tense attempt at resistance. The shape and slope of the bell
and the connecting "bridge" play a large role in the final outcome of this
process. The thinning effect tends to make the bell sound lower in pitch than
the main body of the cymbal, but the increased tension tends to raise the
pitch in the opposite direction. The bridge shape can also serve to impede
the vibrations, resulting in a hollow, separated response.
Our cymbal is far from finished at this point, but may already be suffering
from lack of process control. Maybe it is virtually perfect, on its way to
becoming a "Holy Grail". A hollow area is often created by this process as a
reaction to the pressure of the cupping dies while the metal is hot.the disc
takes on a slight upward (or reversed) profile that results in a tighter
condition at the edge and a corresponding looseness at the junction
between the bell and upper bow. The next step (annealing) may serve to
reduce this malady, but the concern for proper tension in this area will
ultimately become the responsibility of the method of shaping the cymbal's
profile. Many "barking seals" are born at this point, and will remain afflicted
with the condition if not corrected by controlled shaping to come.
Time for cooling and resting again, this time stacked with others of similar
cup size.
In some production environments the sorting of many different models
begins here, the finished designation being determined by the bell. An 18inch Crash will be separated from the 18-inch Rides, for example.
5) ANNEALING The cymbal sheet will once again be subjected to the heat
of the oven for the process called "annealing'.a softening stage in which the
piece is heated to a transformation temperature and instantly cooled
(quenched) to capture the molecular grain structure in that phase. Annealed
metal is no longer brittle and may be worked intensively when settled. The
temperature is critical for each batch of poured ingot metal (remember
when we picked ours from the bunch?) and will also vary now for each
individual sheet's size and thickness. This process also sets up a layered
effect to the metal sheet whereby the surfaces (top and bottom) become
harder than the interior metal because they cool quicker than the inner
layer. This multi-layer configuration will become a valuable tool to the
responsible cymbal maker, or a curse to the careless modifier. It cannot be
ignored in either case.
The surface layer (skin or crust) is very hard.it is also prone to include dirt,
oxides, and a denser arrangement of grain particles.it can be difficult to cut.
Lying under the skin is the true "case" metal layer, named because it
encases the softer center. This case metal is also very hard, but usually
much "cleaner" and free of impurities.it resists cutting but otherwise
Modification deals with limitations that are not present in a raw blank, and
therefore requires the craftsman to reverse engineer some or all of the
processes that were used
to create the cymbal. In one case we must think forward, in the other
situation we must work backwards. I implore you to try to think in these two
frames of reference as we progress through the following sections. Take the
principles apart and reconstruct them in your mind in a backwards
fashion.think how they might work in reverse in a modification scenario.
Mike Skiba
1. Mtodos e procedimentos de Prato
Para comear a compreender os processos utilizados para alcanar
uma caracterstica de som desejado, necessrio primeiro ter um
conhecimento prtico dos passos bsicos que um prato criado. Esta
seo fornecer uma viso geral dos vrios processos comuns
maioria dos fabricantes, embora possa haver diferenas na sua
aplicao. Estou deliberadamente limitar algumas dessas reas, por
razes de brevidade e / ou clareza. Porque eu no operar uma fbrica
de fundio, no posso fornecer imagens para acompanhar o texto
desta seo. Eu recomendo que voc olhar em outras fontes (livros,
vdeos, etc) para exemplos visual destes princpios.
Ela s faz sentido supor que um prato deve ter como objetivo um
conjunto claramente definido de parmetros de design, que devem
ser cumpridos para atingir o resultado desejado. Tenha isto em mente
enquanto voc explora as sees a seguir e aplicar as teorias
discutidas em direo a esse fim. Vou terminar cada seo com um
resumo detalhado das aplicaes potenciais e os efeitos de cada
processo.
1) As ligas metlicas de liga de metal mais comumente usado em
pratos profissionais da classe de bronze, uma liga de cobre e
estanho, com ligeiros vestgios de prata adicionado. De modo geral,
se referem a isso como "B20", simplesmente porque a proporo de
estanho ao cobre de 20 por cento. H outras misturas de bronze e
cobre utilizados, mas estes no produzem a variedade e profundidade
da msica que estamos acostumados a ouvir, principalmente devido
forma como estes metais so criados.
Bronze B20 geralmente moldado em lingotes, cada uma para se
tornar um prato individual. A maioria das outras ligas so enrolados
em folhas grandes de que um grande nmero de instrumento
essencialmente o mesmo ser produzido. Essa produo em massa
funciona bem para as empresas (Paiste, Sabian, Zildjian, conhecidos
coletivamente como o "Big 3") que pretendem ganhar dinheiro,
deve ser repetido muitas vezes, cada repetio exige uma viagem de
volta ao forno para aquecer / amaciamento. As variveis esto aqui
Rides incomprehensible.large roll diferente Crashes mais fino,
etc.control se perde como tempo de permanncia (o tempo realmente
passou entre os rolos), sobe e desce, e as peas so empilhadas e
unstacked para cada passagem individual atravs do forno. Algumas
peas realmente servem para isolar os outros nesse processo.
Gostaria de saber onde nossa parte agora?
Como o metal constantemente enviado atravs dos rolos, a
distncia entre eles menor para produzir mais fino (e maior) discos.
A orientao do disco intencionalmente modificada para cada
passagem sucessiva, a fim de realizar duas coisas.
O primeiro fazer com que os gros de metal a fluir em direes
opostas, a "costura" ou "amassar" a qualidade que semelhante
mistura de massa de po enrolada.
Aqui reside a diferena fundamental entre B20 elenco ea folha metal
alloys.sheet B8 enrolado em uma nica direo (o comprimento da
folha), como formado. A fora extra e ductilidade do metal fundido
no construda em chapas de "liga B8 uni-laminados". A
complexidade musical menor, exigindo muito mais intensa
transformao martelar e outros para tentar imitar B20 elenco.
Em segundo lugar, para formar a chapa com uma espessura e de
forma to uniforme quanto possvel, com o mnimo de arestas
rachado. Se as bordas crack demais, o prato no vai ser capaz de
cumprir o seu dimetro se destina, resultando em desperdcio
excessivo. Esta a outra face a B8, pelo menos, de uma produo
standpoint.here estamos fazendo pequenas folhas individuais a um
custo muito mais elevado, embora a qualidade ser superior se o
controle mantido.
Nosso lingote foi rolada para um disco de folha de bom, sem defeitos,
neste ponto. Enquanto esfria em uma pilha no cho, j podemos ver
pela descolorao de calor que nica entre todos os outros. Ser
legal, bem diferente, pois est preso no centro da pile.it vai exigir
mais tempo para liberar o seu calor. Abaixo exterior crocante de
oxidao mentiras vrias camadas de ouro "musical" ou alguma outra
tonalidade brilhante metlico que ser determinado por suas
propriedades especficas, esfria e endurece novamente. Ns no
podemos v-lo ainda, mas o metal interno tambm diferente dos
seus parentes prximos no mesmo semelhanas batch.the produo
esto desaparecendo.
4) Cupping O prximo passo cupping.this onde o copo (ou sino)
becomes. When I plan to make a very high profile, I will invariably concede
to letting the piece sit a day or more as I work the shape in stages. The
metal is not the only thing that appreciates rest.my arm also welcomes the
chance to put away the hammer for a while.
The metal has an innate ability to heal itself from the pounding as long as I
don't ask too much at once. It will regain most of its plasticity in a few days,
at which time I can continue to coax it into my desired shape. Each session
generally lasts one or two hours at most, followed by at least two days rest.
A perfectly shaped high profile 22" Ride takes about four hours of honest
labor, over a week's time span.
The main goal here is to develop a balance between the top and bottom
surface memories.the metal wants to return to its original shape as it rests
and will therefore get a little tighter over time. The trick is to learn how
much is "too much" by studying the after effects of the intensity of
hammering as the metal settles. Experience is the best teacher here and I
admit to ruining quite a few cymbals in the quest to find the limits.it's the
"cost of tuition" in any craft worth doing well.
Generally speaking, top surface tension is created by hammering the top of
the cymbal more than the bottom, and usually as the final step of shape
hammering. This enables the craftsman to draw as much tension as desired
by "pulling" against the bottom. When I do raw blanks to form a higher
profile, I will "flip" the piece inside-out a few times in the process to allow
easier hammering and to promote stretching of the metal. The top is
hammered with the cymbal flipped.I will flip it back (to normal) to get
underneath the bottom and again flip it to draw more tension into the top.
As a final shaping step, I flip it back to normal and lightly dress any loose
spots to get the edges straight and the tension as uniform as I want.
I usually like to leave the edge a little looser than the main body to promote
a quicker Crash response that doesn't require a lot of "windup" for the
stroke. This is a personal preference that just suits my lazy hand style of
glancing. I also find this softer edge to produce smoother trash response
than other cymbals that have greater rigidity to the very edge. I can make a
cymbal either way.this is a good example of the benefit of creative choice
using design variables in a positive manner.
The main body should be nice and tight to promote the CLICK of good stick
attack. The main playing area should be built for definition and articulation
and therefore, it depends heavily on proper tension throughout. This tension
will be coupled to the bell through the "Bridge" between the bow and the
bell.an area that is critical to making a complete "connection" of the various
components of the overall voice of the instrument. The greater part of the
curvature of the shape is found in the main playing area, where the metal is
stretched to the greatest degree from the bottom and tightened from the
top. To achieve this profile, I hammer from the inner circle to the outer edge
in a radial fashion, like spokes on a wheel. I repeat this process by filling in
the gaps between spokes by adding more spokes until I've begun stretching
the metal upward in a uniform fashion.
I will continue this process until I can feel the metal becoming looser rather
than tighter.this means I cannot go any further in this direction. At this point,
I flip the cymbal inside-out and continue hammering in a spoke fashion from
the other side to stretch the metal even more. I find myself retracing my
original hammer marks, but from the opposite side of the piece this time.
Each time I flip the cymbal and continue hammering, I will intentionally
begin from a point that is further from the bell than the last pass from that
side. I do this to prevent overhammering the critical upper bow zone.I want
to preserve this area for final tuning and need to leave some room for future
adjustments. This is a small area that serves a major function.it deserves
plenty of respect. We've all seen too many handmade cymbals from Turkey
that have negative issues in this area.I don't want to make more of them
myself. The style I use to get my shape puts a lot of emphasis on the stick
playing area to create maximum tension for a strong CLICK. I also try to pay
attention to other areas to gain maximum benefit for the SC's that are to
follow. I don't want to reduce and/or eliminate the potential for any useful
response characteristics I may wish to add later. Right now I'm just trying to
make a shaped blank from which I can create a musical cymbal. If I hammer
too much.too deeply, or too intensively at one time, I risk this potential and
may find the piece to be suited for only a single particular type of response,
a "one trick pony" kind of cymbal that won't find much use.
An example of this would be to use a large, broad hammer to attempt to
speed up the process of shaping. Each blow from this sledgehammer would
certainly aid in making quick work of forcing the metal into shape, but the
result would be too much trash in the response of the finished piece. This
kind of overworking cannot be undone. The excessive trash would
overshadow the tonality of the sustain (wash) and the cymbal would sound
distorted and "washed out" at nearly any dynamic level. There is a fine line
here that must be respected and crossed only when the design goal calls for
it. The finer "old K's" were made by careful adherence to this principle.the
lesser quality pieces of that era stand as reminders of the other side of that
fine line. I like to bring the cymbal into shape by using the lightest method
possible to avoid any restrictions in the future, thus allowing me to add
various characteristics (such as more trash) as I create the finished piece. I
also like to make cymbals that have a multitude of different "sweet spots" to
provide the player with choices and variety. This is best accomplished by
starting out with a shaped blank that is not frought with limitations from
overworking.
As you can see, the best cymbals are made through PLANNING. There is
little that can be successfully accomplished here by just wacking away at a
piece of metal with a hammer. I learned long ago that there is no substitute
for time spent on design. There is an order to everything in this craft,
especially in the primary learning stages. With this in mind, I put together
the following system of diagrams to help demonstrate the basic principles
I've described so far.
from an actual cymbal, so I decided to dig out the blank from the Methods
and Procedures section and make a cymbal from it. This will begin in next
month's Article on Hammering.
TIME OUT FOR TOOLS
seal and preserve it correctly) you will undoubtedly manage to beat it apart
over time.once it splits, its' days are numbered.
There's been a lot of chat about different methods of making these
tools.some have found fairly creative substitutes that may serve well even
in the long haul, but I caution you to be aware that the quality of your work
will reflect the quality of your tools. We've all heard the adage that "a poor
craftsman blames his tools".well, this works just as well for the GOOD
craftsman. His tools are just as accountable.
The contours I prefer for my anvil and hammers are not necessarily the
same as others might choose.the best determination is to be made by the
type and style of work of the individual craftsman. I occasionally alter my
tools just a little to keep in line with slight adjustments I make as I learn
more. The trick is to understand myself.to be able to know when I am
making changes in the way I hammer, how I grip the tool, etc. A good
drummer has an acute awareness of himself on the instrument.it's the same
in the shop.
The seat at my hammering station is a drum throne with double-braced
legs, set to the proper height at my anvil (on its stand) to allow me to "play"
my hammer with ultimate comfort. As with my drum kit, my shop setup will
evolve over time.
Mike Skiba
Copyright 2006 Mike Skiba
ANYONE CHOOSING TO ENGAGE IN ANY CYMBALMAKING ACTIVITY DOES SO
AT HIS/HER OWN RISK. MIKE SKIBA AND/OR CYMBALHOLIC.COM ASSUMES
NO LIABILITY FOR ANY PERSONAL AND/OR PROPERTY DAMAGE OR LOSS
INCURRED BY ANYONE ATTEMPTING TO USE THIS INFORMATION.
Formao
Aqui onde tudo comea! O objetivo do projeto de um bom prato comea a
tomar forma aqui em forma de disco. Existem caractersticas snicas (SC
doravante fora) que s pode ser alcanado atravs da forma. No h outra
maneira de "enganar" os a ser por outro mtodo. A forma (ou perfil) a
chave fundamental para a voz (ou "ponto") do prato. Existe uma relao
intrnseca entre a forma e muitos outros parmetros de resposta de som.
Eles no podem ser alcanados sem PRIMEIRA incutir a forma correta.
No confunda a forma com hammering.they no so sinnimos. A maioria
dos pratos modernas so moldadas por prensagem, em vez de martelar.
Isso produz um fundamento inteiramente diferente sonic! Muitos dos pratos
de hoje so apelidados de "Mo-martelado" apenas devido menor
para modificar, por razes bvias. Eles tm um perfil muito alto que tem
uma boa quantidade de tenso de pressionar. O resultado uma resposta
passo relativamente elevada. Isto segue uma regra geral diz respeito ao
perfil versus pitch.The SUPERIOR perfil, mais elevado o passo, tudo o resto
igual. A razo para isso tension.stretching o perfil mais faz a tenso no
metal mais apertado, causando assim o passo para subir tambm. muito
parecido com um tambor de afinao, apertado a tenso igual a mais
agudo.
Eu no vou tentar descrever aqui as muitas variveis envolvidas na forma
pressionando por mquinas hidrulicas. Tenho certeza que voc pode
imaginar as infinitas possibilidades de perfil (de apartamento para
flangeadas) que pode ser alcanado simplesmente atravs do emprego de
um conjunto nico de forma especial morre. Eu tenho certeza que alguns
fabricantes na Turquia esto usando prensas para moldar algumas de suas
linhas mais recentes de pratos Rock, pelo menos, suficiente para obter perfil
para eles, de modo a salvar a maioria da mo laboriosa martelar, bem como
promover a limpeza sonic atributos que so essenciais para o alto, os
instrumentos de corte.
Vou tentar descrever o processo de formao martelando, mas primeiro
precisamos entender alguns princpios fundamentais de tenso.
Nos pratos, a tenso a energia (a partir do martelo ou de imprensa) que
armazenada no metal como a deformao. O metal tem "memria" que
resiste a ser deformado e quer permanecer em sua forma original. Uma
mudana de forma permanente requer uma quantidade muito grande de
energia, o suficiente para superar essa memria e vigor a nova forma em
ser.
O instrumento ideal musical tem em seu ncleo uma forma que apertado
e uniforme. Temos de compreender a forma ea tenso como sendo distintos,
mas unidos como eles se combinam para produzir um bom prato. to
possvel produzir um cymbal.one pobre que tem a forma correta, mas muito
pouco a tenso.
Ns nos referimos a elas como "Wobblers" por razes bvias, e alguns
jogadores prmio-los para sentir a sua anistia no final de uma baqueta. A
falta de tenso produz uma reduo de sustentar que resulta em um prato
mais silencioso melhor para estdio ntimo e / ou trabalho acstico. No
extremo oposto seria um prato muito apertado, que responde
instantaneamente com extrema definio e maior volume e projeo. Esta
fase "modelo" seria uma mais difcil sentir a mo do jogador e pode produzir
tanto sustentar a exigir fita para mant-la sob controle.
A partir desses exemplos podemos ver que a forma refere-se a tenso de
uma forma que fornece uma ferramenta de projeto para o fabricante de
pratos para usar a seu critrio. Ele pode enfatizar o aspecto que ele precisa
para realizar seu objetivo, todo o caminho de como o cmbalo que sente de
seus paus. Eu uso este princpio em algumas maneiras, mas geralmente
aderem a uma abordagem sistemtica. Quando eu comear a partir de uma
tenso em branco cru vou suplente superior e inferior para "burlar" o metal
em forma, deixando o ajuste da tenso para a fase final de ajuste posterior.
Quando eu modificar um prato terminado eu posso fazer alteraes na
tenso original, como um meio de controlar a propagao e / ou melhoria de
definio. blanks Raw oferecer muito mais liberdade e reagir mais
diretamente a mudanas na forma e / ou tenso de fazer pratos modificao
porque esto isentos das limitaes impostas pelos processos de trabalho
anterior. Martelando de modificao ser discutido separadamente em outro
artigo.
Eu sempre trabalhamos para martelar um consistente e de forma simtrica
com tenso igual, pelo menos no incio. Isso me d o maior potencial para
futuros ajustes. Devo respeitar o metal, ao mesmo tempo que estou
batendo-o em submission.it incrivelmente forte e resistente, mas pode
facilmente destruir o projeto com um nico golpe deslocada do meu
martelo. liga B20 Cast s pode ser trabalhado tanto em um time.the mais
ela trabalhada, o mais frgil se torna. Quando eu pretendo fazer um perfil
muito alto, eu invariavelmente concede a deixar a pea ficar um dia ou mais
como eu trabalho a forma de estgios. O metal no a nica coisa que
aprecia brao rest.my sada igualmente a oportunidade de pr de lado o
martelo por um tempo.
O metal tem uma habilidade inata de se curar da batendo enquanto eu no
peo muito de uma vez. Ele ir recuperar mais de sua plasticidade em
poucos dias, momento em que eu possa continuar a persuadi-la em minha
forma desejada. Cada sesso dura geralmente uma ou duas horas no
mximo, seguido por pelo menos dois dias de descanso. A forma perfeita de
alto perfil 22 "Ride leva cerca de quatro horas de trabalho honesto, ao longo
de uma semana de tempo.
O principal objetivo aqui desenvolver um equilbrio entre o metal
memories.the parte superior e inferior da superfcie quer voltar sua forma
original, uma vez que descansa e, por conseguinte, ficar um pouco apertado
ao longo do tempo. O truque saber quanto "muito" ao estudar os efeitos
depois da intensidade das marteladas que o metal se instala. A experincia
o melhor professor aqui e eu admito a arruinar um bom poucos pratos na
busca para encontrar as limits.it o "custo de aula" em qualquer
embarcao vale a pena fazer bem.
tenso superficial modo geral, superior criado por martelar o topo do prato
mais fundo, e, geralmente, como a etapa final de martelar forma. Isso
permite que o arteso para chamar tanta tenso, como desejado por
"puxar" contra o fundo. Quando eu fao esboos prima para formar uma
maior visibilidade, eu vou "virar" a parte de dentro para fora algumas vezes
no processo para facilitar o martelo e promover o alongamento do metal. O
topo martelado com o flipped.I prato vai lan-lo de volta (ao normal) para
comear por baixo do fundo e lan-lo novamente para chamar mais a
tenso na parte superior. Como um passo definio final, eu lan-lo de
volta ao normal e levemente vestido solto todos os pontos para obter as
bordas retas e as tenses to uniforme quanto eu quero.
Eu normalmente gosto de deixar a borda um pouco mais flexvel do que o
corpo principal de promover uma resposta mais rpida Bater que no requer
um monte de "concluso" para o acidente vascular cerebral. Esta uma
preferncia pessoal que apenas combine com meu estilo preguioso de mo
olhando. Eu tambm acho isso mais suave ponta para produzir a resposta
mais suave do que o lixo de outros pratos que tm maior rigidez para a
borda muito. Eu posso fazer um prato ou dum modo um bom exemplo das
vantagens da escolha criativa usando as variveis do design de uma
maneira positiva.
O corpo principal deve ser agradvel e apertado para promover o CLICK de
ataque pau bom. A rea de jogo principal deve ser construdo para a
definio e articulao e, portanto, depende fortemente da tenso
adequada por toda parte. Esta tenso ser acoplado ao sino atravs da
"ponte" entre o arco ea rea bell.an que fundamental para estabelecer
uma conexo "completa" dos vrios componentes da voz global do
instrumento. A maior parte da curvatura da forma encontrado na rea de
jogo principal, onde o metal esticada ao maior grau a partir do fundo e
apertou a partir do topo. Para atingir este perfil, eu martelo do crculo
interior para a borda externa de uma forma radial, como os raios de uma
roda. Repito esse processo, preenchendo as lacunas entre os raios por raios
acrescentando mais at que eu tenha comeado esticar o metal para cima
de maneira uniforme.
Eu vou continuar este processo at que eu possa sentir o metal tornando-se
mais flexvel ao invs de tighter.this significa que eu no posso ir mais longe
nesse sentido. Neste ponto, eu virar o prato de dentro para fora e continue
batendo em uma forma falou do outro lado para esticar o metal ainda mais.
Encontro-me refazendo meu martelo marca original, mas do lado oposto da
pea neste momento.
Cada vez que eu virar o prato e continuar martelando, eu intencionalmente
comear a partir de um ponto que est mais longe do sino que a ltima
passagem daquele lado. Fao isso para evitar overhammering crtico zone.I
arco superior querem preservar esta rea para ajuste final e precisa deixar
espao para futuros ajustes. Esta uma rea pequena, que serve uma
grande function.it merece muito respeito. Ns todos vimos muitos pratos
feitos mo da Turquia, que tm problemas negativo neste area.i no quero
fazer mais um deles sozinho. O estilo que eu uso para pegar minha forma
coloca uma grande nfase na rea de pau jogando para criar tenso